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RM ACCOUNTS ED
Geography notes
CSEC

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Coasts
Waves
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Wave Formation
 Frictional

force between the wind and the
sea surface
 Transfers circular motion to the water
 In open water we get swells
 As swells approach the shore waves are
formed
 Waves break when the depth of the
water is less than the wave height
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Type of waves
Two types
 Constructive – These build
beaches by depositing sand,
shingles and pebbles

 Destructive

– These remove
material from the shore
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Destructive Waves
 These

plunge against the shore

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Characteristics - destructive
 Backwash


>

is greater than the swash

Backwash > Swash

9 per minute

 Short

wave lengths

 Plunge

against the shore
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Constructive Waves
 These

spill onto the shore

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Characteristics - constructive
 Swash


<

is greater than the Backwash

Swash > Backwash

9 waves per minute

 long
 Spill

wave lengths

onto the shore
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Coasts
Wave
Processes
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Wave Processes
Erode

Transport
Deposit
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Wave Erosion
 Hydraulic

alone

 Attrition

– Load knock against each other

 Abrasion

shore

 Solution

the rock

Action – force of the water

or Corrasion – Load erodes the

– Sea water disolves minerals in
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Wave Transportation
 The

movement of material can be either
of three ways: in, out and along





In, deposition of material to form beaches
Out, removal of material from the shore out
to sea by the undertow
Along the shore is called longshore drift

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Longshore Drift

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
The effect of Groynes /
Groines along a beach

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Wave Deposition
 Deposition

is the laying down of
transported material
 Constructive waves and gently sloping
shorelines are associated with deposition
 Where rivers discharge into the sea

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Coasts
Coastal
Features
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Types of Coastal features
 Erosional

– those produced by erosion
 Examples: cliff, notch, wave-cut
platform, headland and bay, caves,
arches, stacks and blowholes

 Depositional

– those produced by

deposition
 Examples: beaches, spit, tombolo
and bars
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Cliff, Notch and Wave-cut
Platform

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Headland and Bay

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
deposition

erosion

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Headland and Bay cont’d

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
What happens next?

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Wave Refraction
The change in the direction of
the waves as they approach the
shore, converging on headlands
and diverging as they approach
the bay
Stronger on the headlands
Weaker in the bay
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Depositional Features
 What

are the two main conditions which
lead to the formation of depositional
features?



Constructive waves and gently sloping
shorelines are associated with deposition
Where rivers discharge into the sea

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
A Beach
A

beach is a depositional feature. What
material is laid down to form a beach?
 What is a bay-head beach?
 Draw

a diagram to illustrate a beach.

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
Other Depositional features
 Spit
 Bar
 Tombolo
 Draw

well labelled diagrams of the
features identified above.

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013

Borrowed from: http://imgcdn.geocaching.com/cache/large/23a79aff-4609-43ed-a383-011910ee6680.jpg
A Spit

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
A Tombolo

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
A Bar – Baymouth Bar

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

Borrowed from: greenfieldgeography.wikispaces.com -

ram@2013
rm accounts ed

ram@2013
A Bar – Offshore Bar

rm accounts ed

ram@2013
thanks
 Physical

Geography in Diagrams
– R B Bunnett

 Dale

Franklin – for the teaching concepts
and the initial powe-rpoint.

rm accounts ed

ram@2013

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