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The mole, Scapanus species, is a small insect-eating mammal (Figure 1). Contrary to a commonly held belief, it isn’t part of the rodent family. In California, moles inhabit the Sierra Nevada, coastal range mountains and foothills, and the entire coastal zone. They aren’t usually found in the dry southeastern regions of the state or in much of the Central Valley, except for moist areas where the soil is rich in humus, such as riverbanks. 
Moles live almost entirely underground in a vast network of interconnecting tunnels. They frequently create shallow tunnels just below the surface where they capture worms, insects, and other invertebrates. They may infrequently consume roots, bulbs, and other plant material, although rodent species (e.g., pocket gophers, meadow voles, and deer mice) are almost always the cause of such chewing damage. By far the greatest damage from moles occurs through their burrowing activity (Figure 2), which dislodges plants and dries out their roots. In lawns, the resulting mounds and ridges are unsightly and disfiguring. 
BIOLOGY AND BEHAVIOR 
Moles have cylindrical bodies with slender, pointed snouts and short, bare, or sparsely haired tails. Their limbs are short and spadelike. Their eyes are poorly developed, and their ears aren’t visible. The fur is short, dense, and velvety. Moles typically have one litter of three to four young per year. Because moles are antisocial, you will find only one mole per tunnel, except during the breeding season, which typically occurs during later winter through early spring. 
Mounds and surface runways are obvious indicators of the presence of moles. The mounds are formed when moles push up soil to the surface from underground runways (Figure 3). The excavated soil may be in small chunks, and single mounds often appear in a line over the runway connecting them. 
Surface feeding burrows appear as ridges that the mole pushes up by forcing its way through the soil. Some of the surface runways are temporary. More permanent tunnels are deeper underground and are usually about 2 inches in diameter and 8 to 12 inches below the surface. Moles are active throughout the year, although surface activity slows or is absent during periods of extreme cold, heat, or drought. Greatest mole activity occurs usually after rainfall or watering events when digging new tunnels is easiest. 
LEGAL STATUS 
The California Fish and Game Code classifies moles as nongame mammals. If moles threaten growing crops or other property, the owner or tenant may control the moles using any legal means. 
MANAGEMENT 
Moles can cause significant problems in landscape or garden areas, especially in turf. Because mole damage can be unsightly, makes lawn maintenance difficult, and destroys valuable plants, the number of moles that can be tolerated is usually quite low, sometimes even zero. As soon as you see an active mound or surface runway, initiate appropriate control actions. Once you have controlled damage, establish a system to monitor for reinfestation. 
Several methods of control are available, but no single method has proven fail proof, so it may be necessary to use a combination of techniques. 
Integrated Pest Management for Home Gardeners and Landscape Professionals 
Moles 
Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program December 2012 
PEST NOTES Publication 74115 
Figure 1. Adult mole. 
Figure 2. Moles create surface burrows when searching for insects. 
Figure 3. Top view of a mole mound; the margin tends to be circular, as compared to mounds of pocket gophers, which tend to be crescent shaped.
December 2012 Moles 
◆ 2 of 3 ◆ 
Trapping 
Trapping is the most universally appli-cable 
and dependable method of mole 
control. Several different kinds of mole 
traps are available at hardware stores, 
nurseries, or directly from the manu-facturer. 
Keep in mind that the best 
mole traps differ from those for pocket 
gophers; very few traps are effective for 
both animals. 
Understanding mole behavior helps 
improve the efficacy of trapping. To be 
effective, the trap must be set to catch 
the mole underground. When a mole’s 
sensitive snout encounters a foreign 
object in the burrow, the mole is likely 
to plug off that portion and dig around 
or under the object. Therefore, traps 
should be set to straddle or encircle the 
tunnel or be suspended above it. 
Moles are undeterred by soil blocks in 
the tunnel, which occur naturally from 
cave-ins, and will continue digging 
through them rather than around them. 
The upward pressure of the mole’s 
body or the movement of soil against a 
triggering plate springs the trap. 
Moles are active throughout the year 
and can be trapped at any time. Before 
setting mole traps, determine which 
runways are currently in use. Moles dig 
a system of deep tunnels that are more 
or less permanently used as well as a 
network of surface runs used for feed-ing. 
Some of the surface tunnels are 
only temporary, so they may not make 
a good trap set. Moles are more likely 
to be trapped in the deep runways, 
which they reuse almost permanently. 
To determine where moles are active, 
tamp down short sections of surface 
runways and mounds. Observe these 
areas daily and retamp any raised 
sections, making note of the areas of 
activity. Selecting a frequently used 
runway is very important to the suc-cess 
of your control efforts. Set traps at 
least 18 inches from a mound and only 
in those runways moles use frequently. 
You can locate deeper tunnels by prob-ing 
between or next to a fresh mound 
with a pointed stick, slender metal rod, 
or gopher probe. When the earth sud-denly 
gives way, the probe has prob-ably 
broken through the burrow. 
Mole traps are fairly expensive, so 
most people tend to buy only one. Al-though 
one trap may solve the problem, 
increasing the number of traps will 
increase the speed and overall success 
of the trapping program. In Califor-nia, 
two major types of mole traps are 
most commonly used. These are the 
harpoon type and the scissor-jaw type. 
Moles have sometimes been caught 
with certain pincer-type gopher traps 
set in mole runways, but these are rare-ly 
as effective as the harpoon or scis-sor- 
jaw mole traps. Trap manufacturers 
often provide detailed instructions, 
which should be followed carefully. 
Set the scissor-jaw trap in the mole’s 
main underground tunnel, which is 
usually 8 to 12 inches below the sur-face 
(Figure 4). Using a garden trowel 
or small shovel, remove a section of 
soil slightly larger than the trap width, 
about 6 inches. Build a plug of soil in 
the center of the opened runway for 
the trigger pan to rest on. Moist soil 
from the opened tunnel or from a 
nearby fresh mound can be squeezed 
together to build the plug. With the 
safety catch in place, set the trap and 
wedge it firmly into the opened bur-row 
with the trigger placed snugly 
against the top of the soil plug. Next, 
scatter loose soil onto the set trap to 
about the level of the top of the tunnel. 
This excludes light from the opened 
burrow and probably makes the mole 
less suspicious of the plugged tunnel. 
Release the safety catch, and the trap is 
completely set. 
The harpoon trap (Figure 5) will work in 
deeper tunnels if you set it on a soil plug 
as described for the scissor-jaw trap. It 
can also be set on the surface over an ac-tive 
runway ridge that has been pressed 
down under the trigger pan. 
Repellents 
Many home remedies have been sug-gested 
to solve mole problems. These 
remedies include placing irritating 
materials such as broken glass, razor 
blades, thorny rose bush branches, 
bleach, mothballs, lye, castor oil, and 
even human hair in the burrow in an ef-fort 
to drive moles away. “Frightening” 
devices such as mole wheels, vibrating 
windmills, and whistling bottles are 
also commonly recommended in gar-den 
literature as repellent techniques. 
Some garden literature advises using 
the gopher and mole plant, Euphorbia 
lathyris, as a repellent. Various electrical 
devices that vibrate soil, produce sound, 
or do both are frequently advertised for 
mole control, but research doesn’t sup-port 
their effectiveness. None of these 
approaches has proved successful in 
stopping mole damage or in driving 
moles from an area. 
Commercially available mole repellents, 
usually castor oil solutions, are also 
available. Research on the effectiveness 
of these castor oil commercial repellents 
has shown some efficacy for eastern 
moles. No research has been done on 
moles in the western United States, so 
their effectiveness on these species 
remains unclear. However, repellents 
work by moving animals from one loca-tion 
to another by deterring their pres-ence 
in the area where the repellent is 
Figure 4. A scissor-jaw trap placed in a 
mole’s main tunnel. 
Figure 5. A harpoon trap installed in a 
mole tunnel.
December 2012 Moles 
◆ 3 of 3 ◆ 
applied. As such, they may have limited 
utility in residential areas, as “repelled” 
moles will simply move to neighboring 
lawns and gardens and will continue to 
cause damage in these areas. 
Toxic Baits 
Because the mole’s main diet consists 
of earthworms and insects, poisoning 
with traditional grain-based baits is 
rarely effective. However, several new 
forms of toxic control have been devel-oped 
that better mimic the moles natu-ral 
food source. One example is a new 
gel-type warfarin anticoagulant bait 
(Kaput Mole Gel Bait, Scimetrics Ltd. 
Corp.) that is squeezed directly into the 
tunnel. Another example is a worm-shaped 
gel containing bromethalin 
(Talpirid, Bell Laboratories Inc.) that 
can be placed directly into the tunnel. 
Although rigorous testing is still need-ed 
to better estimate their effectiveness, 
limited studies have indicated these 
gel-type baits are more efficacious than 
grain baits and appear to be a viable 
alternative for mole control. Be sure to 
follow label instructions when apply-ing 
these baits. 
Other Control Methods 
Some gardeners have found that moles 
can be detected by watching for “mov-ing” 
ridges, which appear when moles 
are digging surface runs. If you can see 
such movements, try using a shovel or 
other garden tool to dislodge and dis-patch 
the animal. 
Installing a vertical underground bar-rier 
may provide temporary relief. To 
protect existing plantings, bury hard-ware 
cloth or 1/4-inch wire mesh in a 
6-inch wide trench at least 2 feet deep 
with an additional 6-inch lip of mesh 
bent at a 90-degree angle away from 
the planting. This lip will help deter 
moles from digging under the fencing. 
A small length (about 6 inches) of fenc-ing 
should protrude aboveground to 
eliminate aboveground dispersal into 
the exclusion area. Burying wire can be 
difficult and time consuming, so galva-nized 
or stainless steel wire is recom-mended 
to prolong the life of the fence. 
Exclusionary fencing is not perfect, how-ever, 
as persistent moles can eventually 
find a way to burrow around the fencing. 
Eventually, removal techniques may be 
required to eliminate moles that find 
their way into exclusion areas. Alterna-tive 
exclusion approaches include wire-mesh 
baskets that will prevent moles 
from heaving planted bulbs out of the 
ground and wire mesh bottoms in raised 
beds, which will totally exclude moles. 
Attempting to flood tunnels with water 
to drown moles or force them to the 
surface for dispatch isn’t recommended. 
Flooding is typically ineffective and 
wastes water, as moles have deep and 
extensive burrow systems that require 
much water to fill. 
REFERENCES 
Courtney, A., and T. G. Barnes. 2002. 
The efficacy of Molexit for reducing 
damage from eastern moles (Scalopus 
aquaticus). Proc. of the Vertebrate Pest 
Conf. 20:299–302. 
Poché, R. M. 2002. Field tests of a war-farin 
gel bait for moles. Proc. of the 
Vertebrate Pest Conf. 20:295–298. 
Salmon, T. P., D. A. Whisson, and R. 
E. Marsh. 2006. Wildlife Pest Control 
Around Gardens and Homes, 2nd ed. Oak-land: 
Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 
21385. v 
AUTHORS: R. A. Baldwin, UC Statewide 
IPM Program, Kearney Agricultural Center, 
Parlier; T. P. Salmon, UC Cooperative 
Extension (emeritus), San Diego Co.; and R. 
E. Marsh, Wildlife, Fish, and Conservation 
Biology (emeritus), UC Davis. 
TECHNICAL EDITOR: M. L. Flint 
EDITOR: M. L. Fayard 
ILLUSTRATIONS: Fig. 1, J. P. Clark; Figs. 
2 and 5, R. E. Marsh; Fig. 3, L. L. Strand; 
and Fig. 4, Integrated Pest Management for 
Strawberries (UC ANR Publ. 3351). 
This and other Pest Notes are available at 
www.ipm.ucdavis.edu. 
For more information, contact the University of 
California Cooperative Extension office in your 
county. See your telephone directory for addresses 
and phone numbers, or visit http://ucanr.org/ce.cfm. 
WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS 
Pesticides are poisonous. Always read and carefully follow all precautions and safety recommendations 
given on the container label. Store all chemicals in the original, labeled containers in a locked cabinet or shed, 
away from food or feeds, and out of the reach of children, unauthorized persons, pets, and livestock. 
Pesticides applied in your home and landscape can move and contaminate creeks, rivers, and oceans. 
Confine chemicals to the property being treated. Avoid drift onto neighboring properties, especially gardens 
containing fruits or vegetables ready to be picked. 
Do not place containers containing pesticide in the trash or pour pesticides down the sink or toilet. Either use 
the pesticide according to the label, or take unwanted pesticides to a Household Hazardous Waste Collection 
site. Contact your county agricultural commissioner for additional information on safe container disposal and 
for the location of the Household Hazardous Waste Collection site nearest you. Dispose of empty containers 
by following label directions. Never reuse or burn the containers or dispose of them in such a manner that 
they may contaminate water supplies or natural waterways. 
ANR NONDISCRIMINATION AND AFFIRMATIVE ACTION POLICY STATEMENT 
The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs 
or activities. The complete nondiscrimination policy statement can be found at http://ucanr.org/sites/anrstaff/ 
files/107734.doc. Inquiries regarding the university’s equal employment opportunity policies may be directed 
to Linda Marie Manton, Affirmative Action Contact, University of California, Davis, Agriculture and Natural 
Resources, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616, (530) 752-0495. 
Produced by UC Statewide 
Integrated Pest Management Program 
University of California, Davis, CA 95616 
University of California scientists and other 
qualified professionals have anonymously peer 
reviewed this publication for technical accuracy. The 
ANR Associate Editor for Urban Pest Management 
managed this review process. 
To simplify information, trade names of products 
have been used. No endorsement of named products 
is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products 
that are not mentioned. 
This material is partially based upon work 
supported by the Extension Service, U.S. Department 
of Agriculture, under special project Section 3(d), 
Integrated Pest Management.

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Moles Integrated Pest Management

  • 1. The mole, Scapanus species, is a small insect-eating mammal (Figure 1). Contrary to a commonly held belief, it isn’t part of the rodent family. In California, moles inhabit the Sierra Nevada, coastal range mountains and foothills, and the entire coastal zone. They aren’t usually found in the dry southeastern regions of the state or in much of the Central Valley, except for moist areas where the soil is rich in humus, such as riverbanks. Moles live almost entirely underground in a vast network of interconnecting tunnels. They frequently create shallow tunnels just below the surface where they capture worms, insects, and other invertebrates. They may infrequently consume roots, bulbs, and other plant material, although rodent species (e.g., pocket gophers, meadow voles, and deer mice) are almost always the cause of such chewing damage. By far the greatest damage from moles occurs through their burrowing activity (Figure 2), which dislodges plants and dries out their roots. In lawns, the resulting mounds and ridges are unsightly and disfiguring. BIOLOGY AND BEHAVIOR Moles have cylindrical bodies with slender, pointed snouts and short, bare, or sparsely haired tails. Their limbs are short and spadelike. Their eyes are poorly developed, and their ears aren’t visible. The fur is short, dense, and velvety. Moles typically have one litter of three to four young per year. Because moles are antisocial, you will find only one mole per tunnel, except during the breeding season, which typically occurs during later winter through early spring. Mounds and surface runways are obvious indicators of the presence of moles. The mounds are formed when moles push up soil to the surface from underground runways (Figure 3). The excavated soil may be in small chunks, and single mounds often appear in a line over the runway connecting them. Surface feeding burrows appear as ridges that the mole pushes up by forcing its way through the soil. Some of the surface runways are temporary. More permanent tunnels are deeper underground and are usually about 2 inches in diameter and 8 to 12 inches below the surface. Moles are active throughout the year, although surface activity slows or is absent during periods of extreme cold, heat, or drought. Greatest mole activity occurs usually after rainfall or watering events when digging new tunnels is easiest. LEGAL STATUS The California Fish and Game Code classifies moles as nongame mammals. If moles threaten growing crops or other property, the owner or tenant may control the moles using any legal means. MANAGEMENT Moles can cause significant problems in landscape or garden areas, especially in turf. Because mole damage can be unsightly, makes lawn maintenance difficult, and destroys valuable plants, the number of moles that can be tolerated is usually quite low, sometimes even zero. As soon as you see an active mound or surface runway, initiate appropriate control actions. Once you have controlled damage, establish a system to monitor for reinfestation. Several methods of control are available, but no single method has proven fail proof, so it may be necessary to use a combination of techniques. Integrated Pest Management for Home Gardeners and Landscape Professionals Moles Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program December 2012 PEST NOTES Publication 74115 Figure 1. Adult mole. Figure 2. Moles create surface burrows when searching for insects. Figure 3. Top view of a mole mound; the margin tends to be circular, as compared to mounds of pocket gophers, which tend to be crescent shaped.
  • 2. December 2012 Moles ◆ 2 of 3 ◆ Trapping Trapping is the most universally appli-cable and dependable method of mole control. Several different kinds of mole traps are available at hardware stores, nurseries, or directly from the manu-facturer. Keep in mind that the best mole traps differ from those for pocket gophers; very few traps are effective for both animals. Understanding mole behavior helps improve the efficacy of trapping. To be effective, the trap must be set to catch the mole underground. When a mole’s sensitive snout encounters a foreign object in the burrow, the mole is likely to plug off that portion and dig around or under the object. Therefore, traps should be set to straddle or encircle the tunnel or be suspended above it. Moles are undeterred by soil blocks in the tunnel, which occur naturally from cave-ins, and will continue digging through them rather than around them. The upward pressure of the mole’s body or the movement of soil against a triggering plate springs the trap. Moles are active throughout the year and can be trapped at any time. Before setting mole traps, determine which runways are currently in use. Moles dig a system of deep tunnels that are more or less permanently used as well as a network of surface runs used for feed-ing. Some of the surface tunnels are only temporary, so they may not make a good trap set. Moles are more likely to be trapped in the deep runways, which they reuse almost permanently. To determine where moles are active, tamp down short sections of surface runways and mounds. Observe these areas daily and retamp any raised sections, making note of the areas of activity. Selecting a frequently used runway is very important to the suc-cess of your control efforts. Set traps at least 18 inches from a mound and only in those runways moles use frequently. You can locate deeper tunnels by prob-ing between or next to a fresh mound with a pointed stick, slender metal rod, or gopher probe. When the earth sud-denly gives way, the probe has prob-ably broken through the burrow. Mole traps are fairly expensive, so most people tend to buy only one. Al-though one trap may solve the problem, increasing the number of traps will increase the speed and overall success of the trapping program. In Califor-nia, two major types of mole traps are most commonly used. These are the harpoon type and the scissor-jaw type. Moles have sometimes been caught with certain pincer-type gopher traps set in mole runways, but these are rare-ly as effective as the harpoon or scis-sor- jaw mole traps. Trap manufacturers often provide detailed instructions, which should be followed carefully. Set the scissor-jaw trap in the mole’s main underground tunnel, which is usually 8 to 12 inches below the sur-face (Figure 4). Using a garden trowel or small shovel, remove a section of soil slightly larger than the trap width, about 6 inches. Build a plug of soil in the center of the opened runway for the trigger pan to rest on. Moist soil from the opened tunnel or from a nearby fresh mound can be squeezed together to build the plug. With the safety catch in place, set the trap and wedge it firmly into the opened bur-row with the trigger placed snugly against the top of the soil plug. Next, scatter loose soil onto the set trap to about the level of the top of the tunnel. This excludes light from the opened burrow and probably makes the mole less suspicious of the plugged tunnel. Release the safety catch, and the trap is completely set. The harpoon trap (Figure 5) will work in deeper tunnels if you set it on a soil plug as described for the scissor-jaw trap. It can also be set on the surface over an ac-tive runway ridge that has been pressed down under the trigger pan. Repellents Many home remedies have been sug-gested to solve mole problems. These remedies include placing irritating materials such as broken glass, razor blades, thorny rose bush branches, bleach, mothballs, lye, castor oil, and even human hair in the burrow in an ef-fort to drive moles away. “Frightening” devices such as mole wheels, vibrating windmills, and whistling bottles are also commonly recommended in gar-den literature as repellent techniques. Some garden literature advises using the gopher and mole plant, Euphorbia lathyris, as a repellent. Various electrical devices that vibrate soil, produce sound, or do both are frequently advertised for mole control, but research doesn’t sup-port their effectiveness. None of these approaches has proved successful in stopping mole damage or in driving moles from an area. Commercially available mole repellents, usually castor oil solutions, are also available. Research on the effectiveness of these castor oil commercial repellents has shown some efficacy for eastern moles. No research has been done on moles in the western United States, so their effectiveness on these species remains unclear. However, repellents work by moving animals from one loca-tion to another by deterring their pres-ence in the area where the repellent is Figure 4. A scissor-jaw trap placed in a mole’s main tunnel. Figure 5. A harpoon trap installed in a mole tunnel.
  • 3. December 2012 Moles ◆ 3 of 3 ◆ applied. As such, they may have limited utility in residential areas, as “repelled” moles will simply move to neighboring lawns and gardens and will continue to cause damage in these areas. Toxic Baits Because the mole’s main diet consists of earthworms and insects, poisoning with traditional grain-based baits is rarely effective. However, several new forms of toxic control have been devel-oped that better mimic the moles natu-ral food source. One example is a new gel-type warfarin anticoagulant bait (Kaput Mole Gel Bait, Scimetrics Ltd. Corp.) that is squeezed directly into the tunnel. Another example is a worm-shaped gel containing bromethalin (Talpirid, Bell Laboratories Inc.) that can be placed directly into the tunnel. Although rigorous testing is still need-ed to better estimate their effectiveness, limited studies have indicated these gel-type baits are more efficacious than grain baits and appear to be a viable alternative for mole control. Be sure to follow label instructions when apply-ing these baits. Other Control Methods Some gardeners have found that moles can be detected by watching for “mov-ing” ridges, which appear when moles are digging surface runs. If you can see such movements, try using a shovel or other garden tool to dislodge and dis-patch the animal. Installing a vertical underground bar-rier may provide temporary relief. To protect existing plantings, bury hard-ware cloth or 1/4-inch wire mesh in a 6-inch wide trench at least 2 feet deep with an additional 6-inch lip of mesh bent at a 90-degree angle away from the planting. This lip will help deter moles from digging under the fencing. A small length (about 6 inches) of fenc-ing should protrude aboveground to eliminate aboveground dispersal into the exclusion area. Burying wire can be difficult and time consuming, so galva-nized or stainless steel wire is recom-mended to prolong the life of the fence. Exclusionary fencing is not perfect, how-ever, as persistent moles can eventually find a way to burrow around the fencing. Eventually, removal techniques may be required to eliminate moles that find their way into exclusion areas. Alterna-tive exclusion approaches include wire-mesh baskets that will prevent moles from heaving planted bulbs out of the ground and wire mesh bottoms in raised beds, which will totally exclude moles. Attempting to flood tunnels with water to drown moles or force them to the surface for dispatch isn’t recommended. Flooding is typically ineffective and wastes water, as moles have deep and extensive burrow systems that require much water to fill. REFERENCES Courtney, A., and T. G. Barnes. 2002. The efficacy of Molexit for reducing damage from eastern moles (Scalopus aquaticus). Proc. of the Vertebrate Pest Conf. 20:299–302. Poché, R. M. 2002. Field tests of a war-farin gel bait for moles. Proc. of the Vertebrate Pest Conf. 20:295–298. Salmon, T. P., D. A. Whisson, and R. E. Marsh. 2006. Wildlife Pest Control Around Gardens and Homes, 2nd ed. Oak-land: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 21385. v AUTHORS: R. A. Baldwin, UC Statewide IPM Program, Kearney Agricultural Center, Parlier; T. P. Salmon, UC Cooperative Extension (emeritus), San Diego Co.; and R. E. Marsh, Wildlife, Fish, and Conservation Biology (emeritus), UC Davis. TECHNICAL EDITOR: M. L. Flint EDITOR: M. L. Fayard ILLUSTRATIONS: Fig. 1, J. P. Clark; Figs. 2 and 5, R. E. Marsh; Fig. 3, L. L. Strand; and Fig. 4, Integrated Pest Management for Strawberries (UC ANR Publ. 3351). This and other Pest Notes are available at www.ipm.ucdavis.edu. For more information, contact the University of California Cooperative Extension office in your county. See your telephone directory for addresses and phone numbers, or visit http://ucanr.org/ce.cfm. WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS Pesticides are poisonous. Always read and carefully follow all precautions and safety recommendations given on the container label. Store all chemicals in the original, labeled containers in a locked cabinet or shed, away from food or feeds, and out of the reach of children, unauthorized persons, pets, and livestock. Pesticides applied in your home and landscape can move and contaminate creeks, rivers, and oceans. Confine chemicals to the property being treated. Avoid drift onto neighboring properties, especially gardens containing fruits or vegetables ready to be picked. Do not place containers containing pesticide in the trash or pour pesticides down the sink or toilet. Either use the pesticide according to the label, or take unwanted pesticides to a Household Hazardous Waste Collection site. Contact your county agricultural commissioner for additional information on safe container disposal and for the location of the Household Hazardous Waste Collection site nearest you. Dispose of empty containers by following label directions. Never reuse or burn the containers or dispose of them in such a manner that they may contaminate water supplies or natural waterways. ANR NONDISCRIMINATION AND AFFIRMATIVE ACTION POLICY STATEMENT The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs or activities. The complete nondiscrimination policy statement can be found at http://ucanr.org/sites/anrstaff/ files/107734.doc. Inquiries regarding the university’s equal employment opportunity policies may be directed to Linda Marie Manton, Affirmative Action Contact, University of California, Davis, Agriculture and Natural Resources, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616, (530) 752-0495. Produced by UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program University of California, Davis, CA 95616 University of California scientists and other qualified professionals have anonymously peer reviewed this publication for technical accuracy. The ANR Associate Editor for Urban Pest Management managed this review process. To simplify information, trade names of products have been used. No endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. This material is partially based upon work supported by the Extension Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, under special project Section 3(d), Integrated Pest Management.