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A Washington Toxics Coalition Fact Sheet xx 
Keeping Molehills from Becoming Mountains 
by Philip Dickey 
As soon as I get outside the city, the number-one question I hear from 
audiences is “how can I get rid of moles in the yard?” If on some imaginary 
scale insects cause irritation, diseases cause distress, and weeds cause 
worry, then by comparison moles cause mayhem. The fact that they perform some 
pest control themselves while mixing and aerating soil generally isn’t appreciated by 
John Does on their John Deeres. Just look at the array of things that frustrated 
homeowners have tried in order to stop the tunneling in their lawns: toilet bowl 
cleaner, mothballs, gasoline, Ex-Lax, smoke bombs, razor blades, barbed wire, 
flooding, shooting, lethal traps, and even insecticide to kill the grubs and earthworms 
that moles eat. These tactics range from ineffective to illegal, and some are more 
hazardous to the homeowner than to the moles. The fact is that mole damage is not 
easy to prevent. Fortunately, there is an excellent fact sheet from the Washington 
Department of Fish and Wildlife. I’ve summarized some of the control suggestions 
here, but you should read the full publication. 
Digging It 
Moles are perfectly designed for what they do, which might be thought of as 
swimming underground. They have small weak eyes—seeing isn’t especially helpful 
below ground—and large strong front claws oriented for digging. The rest of their 
body is designed to minimize resistance as they slide through the tunnel they have 
created. Although there are three species of moles in Washington, the Townsend’s 
mole (Scapanus townsendii) is the largest and most likely the one to be piling up soil 
in Western Washington lawns. They are 8 to 9 inches long and black in color, not 
that you’re likely to see them above ground. Moles in Washington eat mainly worms 
and grubs, but they may occasionally eat some vegetation, especially roots and bulbs. 
Based on population estimates of from one adult mole in 6 acres to more than five 
per acre, a typical lot in the city probably doesn’t have more than one or two moles. 
Pocket gophers also build tunnels and mounds that can be confused with mole 
handiwork unless you know how to tell the difference: mole tunnels may be visible 
above ground but gopher tunnels are not, though both make visible mounds at 
entrances. Why would you care whether you had moles or gophers? Not just because 
gophers are cuter, but because some gophers are becoming rare and certain control 
methods may not be legal for them. If you think you have gophers, you should 
contact your local Fish and Wildlife office before trying to control them. 
Moles are mild-mannered creatures that go about their business underground 
and wouldn’t cause us any irritation if it weren’t for their tunnels and the mounds of 
earth they throw up at the entrances. Generally this behavior is most problematic in 
lawns, where the mounds are highly visible and definitely make playing croquet a 
challenge. Although the occasional garden plant can be undermined when its roots 
are left high and dry in a tunnel or pushed out of the ground entirely, gardens usually 
suffer less impact than lawns. 
Cast-out soil may indicate mole activity 
and often leads homeowners to go to 
extreme measures while attempting to 
eliminate the moles. 
©Washington Toxics Coalition, 4649 Sunnyside N, Suite 540, Seattle, WA 98103 (206) 632-1545
2 
Be Realistic and Flexible 
It is important to be realistic about what is achievable in pest control, especially 
where moles are concerned. The so-called “silver bullet” or “quick fix” are not 
available, and depending on whether mole habitat exists adjacent to your property an 
ongoing commitment to control may be needed. This means that whatever strategies 
turn out to be effective may have to be repeated at intervals. With this in mind, 
changes to the landscape designed to minimize mole headaches begin to seem more 
attractive. 
Since moles are most problematic in lawns, consider reducing the size of your 
lawn to an area that is practical to maintain. Consider dividing your turf area into a 
smaller, highly maintained area nearest the house, and a more natural area outside 
that where the grass is mowed or whacked above the molehill level. Alternatively, 
install native plants in this area instead of lawn for a low maintenance landscape that 
will not show the mole damage. Nearer the home, consider increasing the size of 
ornamental beds. In addition to reducing mole headaches, these changes will reduce 
your water use and need for mowing. 
Control Strategies 
This section explains a range of tactics you can employ, beginning with the 
obvious and leading up to the deadly. 
Damage Control 
Before resorting to killing moles, consider controlling their damage instead. 
Rake out the molehills as they appear, stomp down tunnels, and fill in depres-sions 
with soil. Reseed these areas as necessary to cover the bare soil. Reposi-tion 
plants that have been moved or covered with soil. 
Boom Boxes 
Although 7-Eleven reportedly drove off loitering teenagers by playing 
Mozart through outdoor speakers, moles are either less skittish or more tolerant. 
According to the Department of Fish and Wildlife, moles are not frightened off 
by the various noisemaking devices on the market. 
Repellents 
Once you’ve seen what mole traps look like, repellents may seem more 
appealing (to you, not the moles). Unfortunately, here we enter an area of great 
debate and conflicting results with little science to guide us. There is no harm in 
trying mole plants, garlic, or other natural repellents, but there is no consensus 
on what you can expect. 
Commercial mole repellents (and some homemade recipes) are generally 
based on castor oil, either in liquid or pelletized form. This material is spread 
over the lawn and watered in, the idea being that it coats earthworms and grubs 
making them taste bad and perhaps even giving the moles diarrhea. Although 
the reviews are mixed, this certainly seems a more effective way to give moles 
diarrhea than putting a package of Ex-Lax in the tunnel. Expect to apply more 
than once before the moles pack up and leave, and don’t be surprised to see 
them back again in a few months, but it may be worth a try. 
Trapping 
According to both Fish and Wildlife and WSU Cooperative Extension, 
lethal trapping is the most effective method of control, but even it has to be 
repeated from time to time. Before embarking on a trapping program, you need 
to be sure you have moles and not pocket gophers. Read the Fish and Wildlife 
fact sheet for details on the effectiveness of various kinds of traps. You also 
must get a written permit from DFW to use lethal traps. Do not bury razor 
Summary of Control Methods 
❖ Tolerate some mole damage. 
❖ Reduce lawn area and make 
landscape less susceptible to 
damage. 
❖ Rake out mounds and fill in 
collapsed tunnels. 
❖ Try castor-oil repellents. 
❖ Consider trapping if neces-sary 
(a permit is required for 
lethal trapping, see text).
3 
To Learn More 
Poison baits for moles are pesti-cides 
and may be dangerous to 
have around the house. They 
should not be put in the trash or 
flushed down the toilet. Take 
unwanted mole baits to a house-hold 
hazardous waste collection 
site. In the Seattle/King County 
area, call the Hazards Line at 
206-296-4692 or visit 
www.metrokc.gov/hazwaste for 
more information. Statewide in 
Washington, call 800-RECYCLE. 
blades or other sharp objects in the tunnels in hopes of injuring moles or driving 
them away. You may injure someone who digs there later. 
Poison Baits, Bombs, Floods, and other Underground Catastrophes 
The problem with poison baits, of course, is that moles eat insects and 
worms, "food that moves," as Extension Agent George Pinyuh used to say. Baits 
are not likely to be effective on moles, and they endanger other wildlife and 
pets. At Seattle's first household hazardous waste collection event in the 1980s, a 
product called Death to Moles was brought in. The small bottle contained pills 
laced with cyanide, a deadly poison. See the box at the lower left for information 
on disposal of old or unwanted mole baits or other pesticides. 
Devices that fill the tunnel with toxic gas (smoke bombs and gas cartridges) 
can work, but success depends on the details of the tunnel system. Similarly, 
flooding the tunnel with water works best if the tunnel system is small and can 
be filled very rapidly with water. The appeal of this approach may be somewhat 
dimmed by the realization that you are supposed to whack the exiting moles 
with a shovel. 
Don’t Apply Insecticides to Deter Moles 
Since moles eat grubs and earthworms, some folks have reasoned that if you kill 
those, the moles will go away. Grubs, such as the larvae of crane flies can be a pest 
when present in high numbers, but recent research indicates that they seldom reach 
those levels. In addition, they make up a relatively small portion of moles’ diet, so 
killing them won’t necessarily solve the problem. Earthworms are highly beneficial, 
and while some insecticides will kill quite a few of them, you really need them in the 
lawn to keep good soil texture. In any case, insecticides aren’t labeled for controlling 
moles, so to do so in this indirect manner might be considered illegal. 
A Final Thought 
When we have conflicts with moles, deer, and other wild animals it is usually 
because we have invaded their territory rather than the other way around. We should 
try to keep this in mind and consider whether the “solutions” we propose are 
sensible, practical, and humane. Another approach is to sit back and enjoy the show! 
Printed on recycled paper with 100% post-consumer content, not secondarily bleached with chlorine compounds. 
© 7/2006 
The Washington Toxics Coalition is a 
non-profit organization dedicated to 
protecting public health and the envi-ronment 
by preventing pollution. Visit 
our Internet website at 
www.watoxics.org. 
This fact sheet was funded through a grant from Washington State Department of 
Ecology. While these materials were reviewed for grant consistency, this does not 
necessarily constitute endorsement by the department. 
Here are links to the two DFW fact 
sheets on moles and gophers. 
Moles (http://wdfw.wa.gov/wlm/ 
living/moles.htm) 
Pocket gophers (http://wdfw.wa.gov/ 
wlm/living/gophers.htm) 
Disposal of Mole Baits

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Keeping Molehills from Becoming Mountains

  • 1. Alternatives xxxxx xxxxx x x x x x x x x x x xxxx xx x xxx x xx xx x x x x x x xx xxxx xxx x x x x xx xxxx xx x xxx x xx x xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx x x x x x xx x x x x x x xx xxxx xxx xxxx xxx x x x x xx xxxxxx xx x xx x x x x xx xx x xx x x x x A Washington Toxics Coalition Fact Sheet xx Keeping Molehills from Becoming Mountains by Philip Dickey As soon as I get outside the city, the number-one question I hear from audiences is “how can I get rid of moles in the yard?” If on some imaginary scale insects cause irritation, diseases cause distress, and weeds cause worry, then by comparison moles cause mayhem. The fact that they perform some pest control themselves while mixing and aerating soil generally isn’t appreciated by John Does on their John Deeres. Just look at the array of things that frustrated homeowners have tried in order to stop the tunneling in their lawns: toilet bowl cleaner, mothballs, gasoline, Ex-Lax, smoke bombs, razor blades, barbed wire, flooding, shooting, lethal traps, and even insecticide to kill the grubs and earthworms that moles eat. These tactics range from ineffective to illegal, and some are more hazardous to the homeowner than to the moles. The fact is that mole damage is not easy to prevent. Fortunately, there is an excellent fact sheet from the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. I’ve summarized some of the control suggestions here, but you should read the full publication. Digging It Moles are perfectly designed for what they do, which might be thought of as swimming underground. They have small weak eyes—seeing isn’t especially helpful below ground—and large strong front claws oriented for digging. The rest of their body is designed to minimize resistance as they slide through the tunnel they have created. Although there are three species of moles in Washington, the Townsend’s mole (Scapanus townsendii) is the largest and most likely the one to be piling up soil in Western Washington lawns. They are 8 to 9 inches long and black in color, not that you’re likely to see them above ground. Moles in Washington eat mainly worms and grubs, but they may occasionally eat some vegetation, especially roots and bulbs. Based on population estimates of from one adult mole in 6 acres to more than five per acre, a typical lot in the city probably doesn’t have more than one or two moles. Pocket gophers also build tunnels and mounds that can be confused with mole handiwork unless you know how to tell the difference: mole tunnels may be visible above ground but gopher tunnels are not, though both make visible mounds at entrances. Why would you care whether you had moles or gophers? Not just because gophers are cuter, but because some gophers are becoming rare and certain control methods may not be legal for them. If you think you have gophers, you should contact your local Fish and Wildlife office before trying to control them. Moles are mild-mannered creatures that go about their business underground and wouldn’t cause us any irritation if it weren’t for their tunnels and the mounds of earth they throw up at the entrances. Generally this behavior is most problematic in lawns, where the mounds are highly visible and definitely make playing croquet a challenge. Although the occasional garden plant can be undermined when its roots are left high and dry in a tunnel or pushed out of the ground entirely, gardens usually suffer less impact than lawns. Cast-out soil may indicate mole activity and often leads homeowners to go to extreme measures while attempting to eliminate the moles. ©Washington Toxics Coalition, 4649 Sunnyside N, Suite 540, Seattle, WA 98103 (206) 632-1545
  • 2. 2 Be Realistic and Flexible It is important to be realistic about what is achievable in pest control, especially where moles are concerned. The so-called “silver bullet” or “quick fix” are not available, and depending on whether mole habitat exists adjacent to your property an ongoing commitment to control may be needed. This means that whatever strategies turn out to be effective may have to be repeated at intervals. With this in mind, changes to the landscape designed to minimize mole headaches begin to seem more attractive. Since moles are most problematic in lawns, consider reducing the size of your lawn to an area that is practical to maintain. Consider dividing your turf area into a smaller, highly maintained area nearest the house, and a more natural area outside that where the grass is mowed or whacked above the molehill level. Alternatively, install native plants in this area instead of lawn for a low maintenance landscape that will not show the mole damage. Nearer the home, consider increasing the size of ornamental beds. In addition to reducing mole headaches, these changes will reduce your water use and need for mowing. Control Strategies This section explains a range of tactics you can employ, beginning with the obvious and leading up to the deadly. Damage Control Before resorting to killing moles, consider controlling their damage instead. Rake out the molehills as they appear, stomp down tunnels, and fill in depres-sions with soil. Reseed these areas as necessary to cover the bare soil. Reposi-tion plants that have been moved or covered with soil. Boom Boxes Although 7-Eleven reportedly drove off loitering teenagers by playing Mozart through outdoor speakers, moles are either less skittish or more tolerant. According to the Department of Fish and Wildlife, moles are not frightened off by the various noisemaking devices on the market. Repellents Once you’ve seen what mole traps look like, repellents may seem more appealing (to you, not the moles). Unfortunately, here we enter an area of great debate and conflicting results with little science to guide us. There is no harm in trying mole plants, garlic, or other natural repellents, but there is no consensus on what you can expect. Commercial mole repellents (and some homemade recipes) are generally based on castor oil, either in liquid or pelletized form. This material is spread over the lawn and watered in, the idea being that it coats earthworms and grubs making them taste bad and perhaps even giving the moles diarrhea. Although the reviews are mixed, this certainly seems a more effective way to give moles diarrhea than putting a package of Ex-Lax in the tunnel. Expect to apply more than once before the moles pack up and leave, and don’t be surprised to see them back again in a few months, but it may be worth a try. Trapping According to both Fish and Wildlife and WSU Cooperative Extension, lethal trapping is the most effective method of control, but even it has to be repeated from time to time. Before embarking on a trapping program, you need to be sure you have moles and not pocket gophers. Read the Fish and Wildlife fact sheet for details on the effectiveness of various kinds of traps. You also must get a written permit from DFW to use lethal traps. Do not bury razor Summary of Control Methods ❖ Tolerate some mole damage. ❖ Reduce lawn area and make landscape less susceptible to damage. ❖ Rake out mounds and fill in collapsed tunnels. ❖ Try castor-oil repellents. ❖ Consider trapping if neces-sary (a permit is required for lethal trapping, see text).
  • 3. 3 To Learn More Poison baits for moles are pesti-cides and may be dangerous to have around the house. They should not be put in the trash or flushed down the toilet. Take unwanted mole baits to a house-hold hazardous waste collection site. In the Seattle/King County area, call the Hazards Line at 206-296-4692 or visit www.metrokc.gov/hazwaste for more information. Statewide in Washington, call 800-RECYCLE. blades or other sharp objects in the tunnels in hopes of injuring moles or driving them away. You may injure someone who digs there later. Poison Baits, Bombs, Floods, and other Underground Catastrophes The problem with poison baits, of course, is that moles eat insects and worms, "food that moves," as Extension Agent George Pinyuh used to say. Baits are not likely to be effective on moles, and they endanger other wildlife and pets. At Seattle's first household hazardous waste collection event in the 1980s, a product called Death to Moles was brought in. The small bottle contained pills laced with cyanide, a deadly poison. See the box at the lower left for information on disposal of old or unwanted mole baits or other pesticides. Devices that fill the tunnel with toxic gas (smoke bombs and gas cartridges) can work, but success depends on the details of the tunnel system. Similarly, flooding the tunnel with water works best if the tunnel system is small and can be filled very rapidly with water. The appeal of this approach may be somewhat dimmed by the realization that you are supposed to whack the exiting moles with a shovel. Don’t Apply Insecticides to Deter Moles Since moles eat grubs and earthworms, some folks have reasoned that if you kill those, the moles will go away. Grubs, such as the larvae of crane flies can be a pest when present in high numbers, but recent research indicates that they seldom reach those levels. In addition, they make up a relatively small portion of moles’ diet, so killing them won’t necessarily solve the problem. Earthworms are highly beneficial, and while some insecticides will kill quite a few of them, you really need them in the lawn to keep good soil texture. In any case, insecticides aren’t labeled for controlling moles, so to do so in this indirect manner might be considered illegal. A Final Thought When we have conflicts with moles, deer, and other wild animals it is usually because we have invaded their territory rather than the other way around. We should try to keep this in mind and consider whether the “solutions” we propose are sensible, practical, and humane. Another approach is to sit back and enjoy the show! Printed on recycled paper with 100% post-consumer content, not secondarily bleached with chlorine compounds. © 7/2006 The Washington Toxics Coalition is a non-profit organization dedicated to protecting public health and the envi-ronment by preventing pollution. Visit our Internet website at www.watoxics.org. This fact sheet was funded through a grant from Washington State Department of Ecology. While these materials were reviewed for grant consistency, this does not necessarily constitute endorsement by the department. Here are links to the two DFW fact sheets on moles and gophers. Moles (http://wdfw.wa.gov/wlm/ living/moles.htm) Pocket gophers (http://wdfw.wa.gov/ wlm/living/gophers.htm) Disposal of Mole Baits