This document provides information on analyzing fabrics, including identifying key properties and parameters. The objectives are to determine the face/back of a fabric, distinguish warp and weft yarns, understand specifications, and sketch weave structures. Key information that can be found includes material composition, sett, yarn counts and twist, weave structure, and weight. Apparatuses like a counting glass, ruler, and GSM cutter are used to analyze properties such as count, length, width, and weight. Identifying these characteristics is important for understanding a fabric's structure and suitability for different uses.

1. INTRODUCTION TO FABRIC
ANALYSIS
DR. MOHAMED ABD ELGAWAD

2. Fabric production
New fabric
(New design)
Fabric already
exists on market
(reproduction)
new design
• New art work
• New technical drawing
• sett technical specification
Fabric analysis
• Identification of face or back of
the fabric
• Determine warp and weft
direction
• Extract fabric parameters
• Sketch the weave structure.

3. OBJECTIVES :
• To detect Face and back side of fabric.
• To distinguish between warp and weft yarn
• To know the specification of the fabric .
• To find and sketch the weave structure of the given fabric sample.
• To identify the drafting & lifting plan of the weave.
• Knowledge of these fabric characteristics are needed to understand fabric
structure and suitability in particular end uses.
Reasons for knowing the fabric parameters: the properties of the fabric are closely
linked to fabric parameters

4. WHAT YOU CAN FIND FROM A WOVEN FABRIC
• Believe it or not, you can find at least ten items from a piece of fabric.
• What are they?

5. INFORMATION FROM A WOVEN FABRIC
1. Material of warp and weft
2. Sett – ends (warp) and picks (weft) per cm
3. Yarn particulars
• Counts (tex)
• Twist per cm
• S or Z twist
• Single or fold yarn

6. INFORMATION FROM A WOVEN FABRIC
5. Weave (structure)
6. Order of coloring in warp and weft (if applicable)
7. Crimp% in warp and weft
8. Width of warp in reed
9. Warp length for a given finished fabric length (m)
10. Weight of fabric per unit area (gm/sq. M)
11. Type of material for both warp and weft
12. Type of finishing applied
13. Other factors: tensile strength, resistance to abrasion, drape,
shower resistance, color fastness

7. FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS

8. HOW WE CAN EASILY DETECT THE FACE OR BACK
SIDE OF A FABRIC PROPERLY?
• When the fabric is laid down on a cutting table then it is sometimes feels to us
troublesome to detect properly the face or back side of fabric. Sometimes it feels
very difficult to mark out. The face side is the upper side of a fabric that will
show the appearance of a fabric. And the back side is the inner side of a fabric.
So the buyer can choose that what type of side he/she will be using as the face
side.

10. IDENTIFICATION OF FACE OR BACK OF THE FABRIC
• The face of a fabric has a clear colour or patterns
• Cloths with color are usually brighter and shiner on the face
• The face side of a fabric will be softer than the back side.
• For rib or corded fabrics, the face are usually more dense and cords are more
pronounced on the face.
• In case of the brushed or peach fabric the face side is generally peached or brushed.
• In case of textured fabric the texture will be more visible in the face side.
• If any special finishing agents is used than it is generally are used in the face side.

11. IDENTIFICATION OF FACE OR BACK OF THE FABRIC
• Fabrics with fancy design have smoother weaves on the face side. On the
other
• For pile fabrics, the face has piles.
• For double fabrics, the face has higher density, and better materials.
• For terry fabrics, the face has denser loops.
• Twill lines will be more visible on the face side of the fabric.
• Sateen fabric show face by weft on top
• In case of satins warp on top
• Dobby and jacquard fabrics and have the pattern more prominent on the face

12. Apparatuses required for fabric analysis :
• Counting Glass
• Needle
• Sensitive Balance
• GSM Cutter/Scissors
• Graph Paper
• Ruler

13. Apparatuses

14. The functions of the apparatuses
• Counting glass: used to determine fabric count[ the number of warp yarns (ends) and filling
yarns (picks) per cm in a woven fabric]
• Ruler: to measure the sample length (in warp direction) and width accurately and record the
results along with the units below: Sample length: Sample width:
• Scissors: square the sample and to cut the fringes from four sides.
• Needle :To take out warp and weft threads and Square the sample by unraveling The warp
and weft yarns from the sample’s four sides.
• GSM CUTTER: It is essential to know the weight of the finished fabric( grams per square meter)
• Microscope : having magnification of at least 100 power used for Microscopic Appearance Of
Fibre. Identification the Longitudinal View and cross section of fibers.
• Squared paper : to draw the weave structure , draft and peg plan.

15. GSM CUTTER
• GSM means grams per square meter of a knit, woven or non woven
fabric. It is essential to know the weight of the fabric before
manufacturing and after getting the finished fabric. It needs to
measure the weight of the fabric to be sure about the finished weight
of the fabric. This test can be carried out in different ways but it is very
easy to know the weight of the fabric by cutting the fabric with
the GSM cutter.

16. MEASURE THE GSM OF THE FABRIC BY GSM CUTTER:
It is one type of physical test of the fabric which is known as off line quality
assurance system. By the following way we can measure the weight of the fabric.
• Cut the fabric with the GSM cutter (gram per square inch). (Diameter 11.2 CM)
• Weight the fabric with the electric balance.
• The cut sample is 100 sq.Cm. The weight of the cut sample is multiplied by 100.
• The result is the gsm of that particular fabric.
• After cutting the fabric we can calculate the weight of the fabric as follow.
Suppose, the weight of the fabric is 2.51 gm. That means the GSM of the fabric is 251.
Because when we cut the fabric with the GSM cutter then we get 1 from the 100 meter
from the 1 square meters.