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Compiled here are the five presentations.
Slide numbers, speakers and topics:
Slides 2-9: Bill MacBeth, Director, Textile Centre of Excellence,
‘The RESET Project: Latest sector thinking in response to the key
issues’
Slides 10-25: Jo Conlon, Senior Lecturer, University of
Huddersfield and Srilakshmi Narayanaswamy, Lead Consultant,
ITC Infotech, ‘A vision for the future using Product Lifecycle
Management (PLM) as a platform for operational excellence
and business transformation’
Slides 26-39: Paul Arnold, Sustainability and Innovation
Manager at Camira Fabrics Limited, ‘Pulling apart the linear
model at Camira’
Slides 40-65: Catherine Weetman, Rethink solutions and author
of: A Circular Economy Handbook for Business and Supply
Chains, Repair, Remake, Redesign, Rethink, ‘Overview of the
Circular Economy in Fashion and Textiles’
Slides 66-79: Charles Ross FRSA, Sustainability specialist, ‘The
end of consumerism 1.0? Living in a time of change’
Bill Macbeth
billmacbeth@textile-training.com
The RESET Project
3
The Fashion & Textile Sector: Impact on
the Environment.
 80 billion garments
 2 billion blue jeans
 7,000 litres of water for each pair
 2,700 litres for a T shirt
 8,000+ synthetic chemicals
 20% of the world’s water pollution
4
The Fashion & Textile Sector: Impact on
the Environment.
 2000: 34 garments
 2010: 67 garments
 32kgs of clothing thrown out
 85% to landfill
 10% Garments never sold, never worn = landfill
5
The RESET Project
 Identify good practice: approaches that work
 6 areas
 Share and build into national programmes
 (Hopefully,) funded by UK funds
6
The RESET Project and Interreg Programme video is now
visible on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6CsaBe14xk
7
https://vimeo.com/58573137
8
RESET
Visit our RESET website:
www.interregeurope.eu/reset/
Follow us on social media:
Facebook: @RESETProject2016
Twitter: @RESETProjectEU
LinkedIn: RESET Project
YouTube: RESET Project
Project smedia
Thank you!
Product Lifecycle Management (PLM)
as a Platform for Business Change
Leveraging technology to meet industry challenges
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 10
Introductions and Agenda
Jo Conlon FHEA, MCMI, C.Text.ATI
 Textile Technology graduate with 18 years experience in the clothing industry
 Technical and Sourcing Manager
 Joined UoH 2009, Fellow of the Higher Education Academy, a member of the
Chartered Management Institute and an Associate of the Textile Industry
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 11
Lakshmi Narayanaswamy – Lead Consultant
 An Engineering graduate (Textile technology) with 12 years of Experience. Played
various roles in Apparel Industry including sourcing & vendor management
 Key PLM Engagements : George-Asda (U.K), Lacoste(France), LCWaikiki(Turkey)
PLM at the University of Huddersfield
 Future professionals as
change-agents
 A transformational mind-set
is required for strategic
organizational efforts like
PLM that are more complex
than just a technology
implementation
 People, product and
processes
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 12
Recolour dark lime
What is product lifecycle management (PLM)?
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 13
PLM 1.0
Operational
Excellence
PLM 2.0
Digital
Industry
PLM 1.0 Driving Operational Excellence
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 14
Improve
quality
Improve
productivity
ReduceTTM
Reduce
admin
overhead
Reduce
rework and
scrap
Improve
customer
satisfaction
Business
process
improvement
Enhance
collaboration
with supply
chain
©2016 ITC INFOTECH. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 15
PLM 2.0 LANDSCAPE
Process
Optimization
Adoption
Support
Upgrade
Application
Support
Integration with
DAM & PIM
Integration
with Ecommerce &
Mock shop
Integration
with ERP
Integration
With
Planning tools
Sustainability
PLM
Analytics
Material
Aggregation
Vendor
Performance
Management
Production & Order
Tracking
E-learning
Mobility
Reporting
Factory
Maturity
Mapping
NextGen
PLM
Role based
Apps
Benefit Case
Framework
Integration
with
3D Modeler
Vendor Portal
Factory
Compliance
PROCESS
Transformation
PLM operates at cutting edge of information and
technology, to transform enterprise’s business
model
Differentiation
Emerging technologies and Solutions can provide
data and improve decision making
Enablement
A strong PLM core is an enabling platform for
change
What’s being done today?
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 16
INNOVATION IN
MATERIALS
Fly knit - produces
60% less waste
than traditional cut-
and-sew methods.
Since 2012, the
technology has
reduced nearly
3.5M pounds of
waste
RECYCLE
Used Tee shirts to
new jeans
Plastic Bottles to
Performance
Products
RE WEAR &
REUSE
Second hand
clothes
Turn into Other
Products, like
industrial rag,
insulation, running
tracks etc.
RENEWABLE
ENERGY
Move towards using
renewable energy
sources
REPAIR
Empowering
customers by
making quality
products that can
be repaired and
encouraging the
same
Sustainable Apparel coalition
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 17All trademarks are the registered property of the respective companies and are acknowledged.
Generates standardized performance
scores
Measure Environmental and Social impacts
on Sustainability
Online self-assessment tool for Apparel
and Footwear Industry
Gives an overview of the sustainability
performance of a product and a company
Higg index
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 18
• Allow Brands to
benchmark their
performance and
discover where they
stand compared to
other Brands.
• Can share score with
other SAC members,
which can lead to
sharing best practices
and new partnerships
• Benchmarking by
facility type allows
facility managers to
compare their
performance against
their peers.
• Can identify areas for
improvement and
outline the current
best practices in the
field
• Helps to measure
environmental impact
of the product at
different stages of
Product Life Cycle
• Engage designers
and developers in
making sustainable
choices at the very
earliest stage of
prototype design
BRAND FACILITY PRODUCT
Environmental Impacts at every stage product
lifecycle
Lets set one common standard which can be used globally
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 19
Fiber
Production
Fabric
Production and
Processing
Garment
Manufacturing
Garment
Processing
Packaging
Distribution
Customer
Use
End of
Life
Energy Used and Green
Houses Gas Emissions
       
Water Used    
Chemicals Used     
Waste Generation      
PRODUCT
LIFECYCLE
MSI (Material Sustainability Index) Framework
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 20
Qualitative Scoring
(50 points)
Quantitative Scoring
(50 points)
Chemistry
Energy
Water
Waste
MSI Framework
Recycled content
Fiber Certifications
Green Chemistry
Verifications
Coating Finishes
Creating a common baseline for
material performance for
Manufacturers & retailors
Data on thousands of Material
types
MSI contributor tool – allows
manufacturers and retailors submit
data back to Higg MSI
Achieve the environmental and
social transparency that
consumers are starting to demand
Solution Approach
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 21
Product Sustainability
Define Create Pull Compare View Analyze
Define the
Target
Sustainability
Scores for each
category during
Planning Stage
Create the
Product and
enter the details
for ‘Sustainability
Sections ‘ in the
Product
Pull the Fabrics
and Trims on
Product BOM
and get the
Material Section
Score
Compare the
‘Target Vs Actual’
Product
Sustainability
Score
Check Line
Sheet to view
the ‘Product
Sustainability
Status’ in a
single view
Review
and
Analyze
the
Products
Section-1 Score Section-II Score Section-III Score Section-IV Score Section-V Score
Material Section Score Manufacturing Section
Score
Packaging Section
Score
Product Use Section
Score
End of Use Section
Score
Final Product Score
Screenshots – Fabrics & Bill of Materials
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 22
Screenshots product score
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 23
SUSTAINABILITY SOLUTION
Impact / Benefits
Auto-Populate Product Score
 Store all the standard materials and auto-calculate the Product
Score along with the scores
 Ability to add/update sustainability documents on Material/Product
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 24
Stream-
lined
Processes
Single-
Version of
Truth
Re-
usability
Enhance
Adoption
Rate
Well
Defined
Roles &
Responsibi
lities
Speed-to-
Market Plan Collection with Sustainability Target
 Set a direction for the designers to plan collection accordingly
 Can export the data in excel/pdf format
Generate Reports
 Generate a consolidated report for each Season
 Can identify areas for improvement
 Can track how much % of Sustainability Target has been achieved
Dashboards
 Can get a Snapshot of Sustainability score for each Product in a
Season
PLM
Thank you
Connect with us to understand how
ITC Infotech can help your business.
Email: contact.us@itcinfotech.com
Web: www.itcinfotech.com
©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved.
All trademarks are the registered property of the respective companies and are acknowledged.
25
© Camira
Pulling apart the
linear model at
Camira
© Camira
The need for a
circular shift
© Camira
A bit about us
• From Camborne to Interface to Camira
• Design & manufacture 8 million metres / year
• Recognised for environmental innovation
© Camira
1998
ReSKU
reclaimed wool
2000
Acquired Teknit (CTK)
No waste, knit to fit
2008
World first:
Sting nettle fabric
© Camira
2009
Xtreme becomes
100% Recycled
2011
Hemp fabric
2012
Traceable wool
Closed-loop polyester
© Camira
2013
Zero landfill
Century
2014
Main Line Flax
2016
Rivet: Post-consumer
recycled polyester
© Camira
Journey to 0% landfill
0
50000
100000
150000
200000
250000
300000
350000
400000
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Kg to Landfill
• 340 tonnes in 2009, reduced to 0 in 2013
• Closed loop polyester system
• Re-use of packaging and materials between
suppliers
• Improved segregation systems throughout
the facility
• Cultural importance and increasing
engagement and awareness
© Camira
Closed-loop
process
Recycling process –
shredded, extruded
Converted into new
polymer chips
Returned to Yarn
Manufacturer
Polyester Selvedge
and Yarn Waste
Filament extrusion
Delivery to Camira
Finished recycled yarn
Warping and Weaving
© Camira
Taking-back
• Waste management system
• Take-back schemes with a number of UK
customers
• 2014- 16 we took back around 100 tonnes of
textiles
© Camira
The Survivor Sofa
• Collaboration with The Great Recovery project
• Exploring waste, systems, design and circular
opportunities
• Documentary on Community Channel and BBC
iPlayer
Video available:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbBz7L5yZJM
© Camira
Challenges
• Balancing performance with sustainability
• Flammability/treatment requirements
• Extending to post-consumer waste
• Commercial viability!
© Camira
On a positive note
• There is opportunity, market desire and
momentum
• Partnership, cooperation and communication
throughout the industry is key
© Camira
Pulling apart the
linear model at
Camira
@cjweetman
The circular economy:
re-thinking products,
processes and systems
Catherine Weetman MSc FCILT
Re-think Solutions
@cjweetman
Agenda
Value leakage
Circular economy
Creating new value
@cjweetman
Industrial processes –
take, make, dispose
MAKE
PRODUCT
KEY
GHG & emissions
Sewage, effluent, run-off
Landfill
USE
Store
& sell
TAKE
MATERIALS
TECHNICAL AND BIOLOGICAL
MATERIALS MIXED UP
ENERGY FROM FINITE SOURCES
“We are using resources as if we had two
planets, not one. There can be no 'plan B'
because there is no 'planet B.”
Ban-Ki Moon, Secretary-General,
United Nations, Sept 2014
@cjweetman
9 million people die of disease linked to waste and pollution each year –
20 times more than die from malaria i
Pollution: The Silent Killer of Millions in Poor Countries (2014) Global Alliance on Health & Pollution,
http://74.220.18.60/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/GAHP-PollutionSummaryNov2014DRAFT.pdf [accessed 14 June 2017]
Image: trustedclothes.com
Fashion is the 2nd most polluting industry in the world
@cjweetman
Circular flows: product, process, system
SellManufacture Outbound
logistics
 Catherine Weetman 2016
Farm/
extract Make materials
Use
End-
of-
Use
Recycle
Resell, repair,
refurbish,
remanufacture
Circular
inputs
Product
design
Process
design
Circular
flows
Enablers & accelerators
BUSINESS MODELS
Circular economy framework
 Catherine Weetman 2016
'... The goods of today become the resources of tomorrow at yesterday's prices...‘
Professor Walter R Stahel, Product-Life Institute
Bioesters: fibres made from brown
algae http://bioesters.com/
Circular
inputs
• Recycled
• Renewable
• Safe & secure
• Use less
• Use it more
• Use it again
• Use less
• Waste = food
• Renewables
Circular
flows
• Reuse
• Remanufacture
• Recycle
MycoWorks: ‘mushroom’ leather
http://www.mycoworks.com/
Piñatex™ fabric from pineapple leaves
Circular inputs
Circular
inputs
• Recycled
• Renewable
• Safe & secure
Product
design
• Use less
• Use it more
• Use it again
Process
design
• Use less
• Waste = food
• Renewables
Circular
flows
• Reuse
• Remanufacture
• Recycle
Tidal Vision: vegetable based
tanning process for making aquatic
leathers from fish skins
http://tidalvisionusa.com
Bionic: high performance yarn using
Recycled PET http://bionic.is/
Fashion Positive C2C
certified materials
Source: http://www.fashionpositive.org/fashionpositivematerials/
Climatex Lifecycle fabric
•Swiss firm Rohner produces the Climatex
Lifecycle biodegradable fabric, used extensively in
the office furniture manufacturing business. The
material is compostable, and true to the C2C
founding principle of “waste = food”.
•By 2002, Climatex Lifecycle accounted for a third
of Rohner’s approximately $8 million in revenues
(source: Investor Environmental Health Network).
•Source: EllenMacArthur Foundation
Circular
inputs
Product
design
• Use less
• Use it more
• Use it again
Process
design
Circular
flows
Product design fashion
Circular
inputs
Product
design
• Use less
• Use it more
• Use it again
Process
design
Circular
flows
Recycling a shoe made from one fabric is much easier
than one consisting of over 60 different parts.
Designer Ammo Liao created the Bio-Knit shoe, with
one material processed in three different ways, all
used in one shoe:
•the material is woven & heated to form the upper,
•the same material is laser-etched to form the inner,
•and 3D-printed to create the sole.
Source: http://close-the-loop.be/en/case/19/bio-knit
wear2™ is a new textile process
technology, enabling garments to be
selectively disassembled at end of life.
http://niri.technology/case_studies/wear-2/
• Recycled laminate
• Climate-neutral process
• Fabrics and linings 100% recycled polyester
• Digital printing
• Fully recyclable, with in-built return label
Sympatex closes the loop with
outdoor concept jacket 4.0
May 2017
Process - Levis Water-less
Circular
inputs
Product
design
Process
design
• Use less
• Waste = food
• Renewables
Circular
flows
Unmade is the technology and manufacturing
platform enabling the world's most innovative
brands to offer customisable apparel via their e-
commerce platforms.
Linked to an automated production system,
unique knitted garments can be made for the
same unit cost and speed as mass production.
Source: https://www.unmade.com/about-us/
Process design: waste=food
Cotton by-products
1. Medicine: research on cotton
phenol ‘gossypol’ for prostate &
pancreatic cancer
2. Food: potential for use as a
food oil for humans
3. Animal feed: stems and hulls
can feed cattle, and shrimps in
aquaculture
4. Biodiesel
5. Insulation (from recycled cloth)
6. Mulch
Source: Mazzoni, M (9 Sep 2016) TriplePundit, 6
Lesser-known uses for (sustainable) cotton
@cjweetman
Trans Textile Sri Lanka IfM EPSRC
Source: www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/news/high-value-products-from-industrial-waste/#.WRsIIOsrKpo
Circ flows Patagonia
Beanbag
High-press Fibre panel
Flock & 3D Print powder
Denim tile
Circ flows Patagonia
Circular
inputs
Product
design
Process
design
Circular
flows
• Reuse
• Remanufacture
• Recycle
Recover Upcycled fibres
http://www.recovertex.com
Adidas & Parley
• Reuse
• Remanufacture
• Recycle
Circular
inputs
Circular
flows
Source: http://www.adidas.com/us/parley
Recycling
• I:CO partners with brands including Levi’s, Puma, Forever 21,
the North Face, and H&M
• I:CO collected ~17,000 tons of clothing and shoes in 2015
• About 40% of the clothing has been recycled (6.8 tons). A good
portion of that is cotton goods.
Circular
flows
M&S Shwopping:
20m items collected 2008-16,
raising £16m for Oxfam
Shwopping is about bringing an unwanted item of clothing into an M&S store (even if it’s not from M&S) each time
you come to buy something new. You can put your unwanted items into a ‘Shwop Drop’ box (you’ll find these by the
tills in most M&S stores).
All clothing goes to our partners Oxfam, who either resell it in one of their shops or on the Oxfam Online Shop, sell it
to be reused in different countries around the world, or recycle the fibres to make new material eg mattress filling).
Absolutely nothing goes to landfill. Oxfam use the money raised to help end extreme poverty around the world.
Source: http://www.marksandspencer.com/s/plan-a-shwopping [accessed 3 March 2017]
Mud Jeans
We are a Dutch denim brand that dreams of a world in which there is no such thing as waste.
What if we all clean up our own mess? This simple thought led us to a new way of thinking. Send
your jeans back when you don’t wear them any longer. We reuse all materials, while you can
switch to a new pair. Returned jeans are upcycled and transformed into one-of-a-kind vintage
pieces. Or, when they are beyond repair, the jeans are recycled into new items. This is how we
create our own circle of denim products.
Rent your jeans for a year, after that you have 3 options;
1) keep it,
2) switch it,
3) send back.
Even when you decide to keep the jeans, you can return them once they are worn out. We use
all the materials for the creation of new fashion items. This is how we aim to build a circular
fashion industry.
BUSINESS MODELS
Collaborative consumption
BUSINESS MODELS
Rype Office
Rype Office case study: NHS Cardiff, UK
Public Health Wales (PHW) set a remit for the interior
design with three key themes, all aligned to the values of
PHW and the Welsh Government:
• Collaboration
• Sustainability, including environmental and social
• Value for money
The design, supply and installation was awarded to a
consortium led by Rype Office (responsible for design,
furniture supply, installation and project management)
with its partners Greenstream Flooring (flooring supply
and installation) and Orangebox (new soft furnishings
and remanufactured desk chair supply).
Source: http://www.rypeoffice.com/project/nhs-cardiff/
@cjweetman
Creating new value
“Businesses that work on the basis of circular
principles are amongst the fastest growing in
the economy”
Dr Martin R Stuchtey, McKinsey Center for
Business and Environment 2
“This shift to circular economic activity could
help address the global job gap of 600 million”
Dominic Waughray, Senior Director,
World Economic Forum 1
Shifting to the circular economy could release
$4.5 trillion in new economic potential by 2030 3
“Waste is only waste if you waste it.”
Will.i.am
Circular economy case studies - top 10 sectors
Automotive
Consumer
durables
Consumer
Technology
Fashion &
textiles
Food
Industrial
1. Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2014) Towards the circular economy, vol 3. Report prepared in collaboration with the World
Economic Forum and McKinsey and Company.
2. McKinsey (2015) Growth within: a circular economy vision for a competitive Europe. Report commissioned by Ellen MacArthur Foundation. 2
3. Source: Accenture https://www.accenture.com/us-en/insight-creating-advantage-circular-economy
@cjweetman
Rethinking...
make
use
reuse
remake
recycle
take
make
use
dispose
pollute
'... The goods of today become the resources
of tomorrow, at yesterday's prices...‘
Professor Walter R Stahel, Product-Life Institute
To take nothing, waste nothing, do no harm, and do well by doing good,
at the expense not of the planet but of less alert competitors.
[Attributed to Ray Anderson, founder of Interface]
@cjweetman
Making sense of sustainability
Catherine Weetman, MSc, FCILT
Director, Re-think Solutions
Vice Chair, Environment & Sustainability Forum,
Chartered Institute of Logistics & Transport UK
catherine.weetman@re-think.me.uk
www.re-think.me.uk
Helping you:
 Evaluate the risks and opportunities
 Re-think your strategy to adapt and thrive
@cjweetman
Circular Economy & Fashion Resources
• Close the Loop Vlaanderen Circulair and Flanders DC have developed a tool to guide fashion entrepreneurs
through the basics of a more sustainable way of working. We want to encourage the industry to steer clear
of a linear system (take-make-waste) and to embrace a more circular approach instead (with a focus on
durability and avoiding waste). http://www.close-the-loop.be/en
• Circular Fibres Initiative brings together clothing retailers H&M and Nike, philanthropic funder the C&A
Foundation, and a consortium of organizations including the Danish Fashion Institute, Fashion for Good,
Cradle to Cradle and MISTRA Future Fashion in order to “build a circular economy for textiles,” starting with
clothing. www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/campaigns/circular-fibres-initiative
• Circular Economy Club The Circular Economy Club (CEC) is the international network of circular economy
professionals. www.circulareconomyclub.com/category/circular-fashion/
• Circular Fashion By sharing new and existing knowledge, in an accessible and transparent way, it is our hope
that this website can become a source of inspiration and know-how for any individual, company or
organization working in the field https://circularfashion.com/
@cjweetman
Sustainable Fashion Resources
Centre for Sustainable Fashion (London) http://sustainable-fashion.com/
Ecouterre – news on sustainable fashion ideas and innovation http://www.ecouterre.com/
Ethical Fashion Forum http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/
texSture: ‘strategy and innovation expert hub for textile and fashion industry’ (not updated since 2014) http://texsture.com/
Sustainable Apparel Coalition: trade organization comprised of brands, retailers, manufacturers, government, and non-governmental
organizations and academic experts, representing more than a third of the global apparel and footwear market. The Coalition is working
to reduce the environmental http://apparelcoalition.org/about/
Higg Index 2.0 is a suite of sustainability assessment tools that anyone can get started with right away. These assessments, called
modules, evaluate impacts through our three different lenses: Facility, Brand, and Product. We encourage companies to get started
with whatever module(s) makes the most sense to them, and encourage them to branch out and use other Higg Index tools when
appropriate. There is no requirement to use all of the modules. http://www.apparelcoalition.org/higgindex/
Cotton Campaign: human rights in Uzbek etc http://www.cottoncampaign.org/ Better Cotton Initiative http://bettercotton.org/
Textile Recycling Association (UK) The UK's trade association for used clothing and textile collectors, sorters and reprocessors.
http://www.textile-recycling.org.uk/
Fashion Positive "Launched in 2014 by Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, Fashion Positive is a movement of industry
change agents, driving POSITIVE IMPACT through: Innovation in the supply chain; Providing low-interest rate loans to suppliers;
Increasing transparency; Creating safe and perpetually cycled materials for designers and brands. Using Cradle to Cradle framework
and the requirements of the Institute’s Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Products Program, Fashion Positive brands and supply chain partners
can develop truly innovative products and materials to transform the fashion industry and the world. http://www.fashionpositive.org/
Made-By We are an award-winning European not-for-profit organisation, acting to improve environmental and social conditions
within the fashion industry. Provides consultancy and benchmarks http://www.made-by.org/
Global Change Award network The Global Change Award is an innovation challenge initiated by the H&M Conscious Foundation
looking for bold ideas that can help protect our planet by closing the loop for fashion. The GCA Network is a public space for ideas on
how to make the fashion industry more circular and a network for their creators. https://network.globalchangeaward.com/
Fashion Transparency Index "Following the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse that killed 1,134 people in 2013, the Fashion
Revolution team was compelled to demand more transparency from the fashion industry. To help the public learn where their clothes
came from and how they were made, they co-developed the Fashion Transparency Index with Ethical Consumer.
http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/ethicalcampaigns/fashionrevolution.aspx
@cjweetman
Circular Economy – introductions
BBC R4 Global Business: The Circular Economy 22 Jan 2015
Peter Day talks with the record breaking yachtswoman, Ellen MacArthur, and Unilever CEO, Paul
Polman, about their work promoting the circular economy – where resources are reused and waste
reduced to zero and asks how businesses can put these ideas into practice.
http://downloads.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/radio/worldbiz/worldbiz_20150122-0730a.mp3
Peter Day talks to the record-breaking sailor, to Unilever, and to the creators of an innovative urban
farm in New Jersey about why these concepts are so important and how businesses can take them
on board.
http://downloads.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/radio/worldbiz/worldbiz_20150423-2101b.mp3
EMF Re-thinking progress - Linear to Circular economy
3:48
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCRKvDyyHmI&ind
ex=1&list=WL
https://youtu.be/zCRKvDyyHmI
And Get Loopy, with Steve Punt https://youtu.be/DGERjaaY40g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGERjaaY40g&feature=em-hot-vrecs
The End of Consumerism 1.0
Do I dare to use the disruption word?
Our relationship with stuff is complex
Our relationship with clothing is more so
Charles Ross
Is it that Fashion makes vanity?
Form follows Fantasy
Best thing about
Performance Sportswear Design
Form follows Function
We live in a state of permanent sale – we benefit because someone else is
making it cheaply
There also is the rise of the non-consumer gig economy
the Conscious Consumer,
the Stuffocation Generation,
Generation Rent
Clear Your Clutter Day…
The first of Gen Z are finishing their 2nd Year at University
the Millennials are finishing CSM o/d £75k
they have bought with provenance & claim to care
#FashRev Can you answer the question?
Buy Once, Buy Right?
“There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse
and sell a little cheaper. The people who consider price only are this man’s
lawful prey. When you pay too much, you lose a little money – that is all.
When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing
you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do”
We live in a time of change.
We need to use our powers for good.
West to East
Male to Female
Old to Young
Retailer to “consumer”
Professional to amateur
Physical to digital
Facts to post-truth
Jobs to a calling
Product to service
And of course the biggest of them all:
People to Machines
We live in the most exciting of times
The rise of the P2P economy.
The advent of the circular economy.
The democratisation of innovation, design, production,
commerce and retail. Amateur-professional.
Permission to follow your passion.
A revolution in the way we learn.
The future is bright.
But not like the past.
The Less is More Generation
Phones Wireless
Cooking Fireless
Cars Keyless
Food Fatless
Tyres Tubeless
Dresses Sleeveless
Youth Jobless
Leaders Shameless
Relationships Meaningless
Attitudes Careless
Wives Fearless
Babies Fatherless
Feelings Heartless
Education Valueless
Children Mannerless
Everything is becoming less but still our hopes are Fearless
Welcome to the 21st Century
Amazon didn’t kill retail
Netflix didn’t do it to Blockbuster
Uber didn’t strangle taxis
apple didn’t squash the music industry
AirBnB didn’t challenge hotels
Technology by itself is not the great disruptor
Being non-consumer centric is
The question that has to be addressed
How do we make more money
by selling less stuff?
This is the defining challenge of our time
Amongst all this new technology
The greenest jacket is the one
you already own…
The nearly at the end page (prompting your questions)
Charles Ross consultant/ journo/ PSD lecturer FRSA
<charles@email.com>
Two recommendations: Do Disrupt – Mark Shayler
Do Wales: July 6 – 9th
It is not sufficient to do things better, we need to do better things
In the future only companies that make sustainability a goal will achieve competitive advantage.
This means rethinking business models as well as products, technologies & processes
In the long term the environment & the economy are the same thing. If it is un-environmental, it is
un-economic. That is the rule of nature
We are all better than we know. If we can be brought to realise this, we may never again be
prepared to settle for anything less
Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond
measure. It is our light, not our darkness that frightens us…
Eco & Economy are both derived from the same Greek word: household
The people will not revolt. They will not look up from their screens long enough to notice what’s
happening
Its easy to let go of your purpose
https://inspiredhuddersfield.co.uk/

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The Circular Economy from a Fashion & Textiles Perspective: Make your business future proof and sustainable with system thinking and technology

  • 1. Compiled here are the five presentations. Slide numbers, speakers and topics: Slides 2-9: Bill MacBeth, Director, Textile Centre of Excellence, ‘The RESET Project: Latest sector thinking in response to the key issues’ Slides 10-25: Jo Conlon, Senior Lecturer, University of Huddersfield and Srilakshmi Narayanaswamy, Lead Consultant, ITC Infotech, ‘A vision for the future using Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) as a platform for operational excellence and business transformation’ Slides 26-39: Paul Arnold, Sustainability and Innovation Manager at Camira Fabrics Limited, ‘Pulling apart the linear model at Camira’ Slides 40-65: Catherine Weetman, Rethink solutions and author of: A Circular Economy Handbook for Business and Supply Chains, Repair, Remake, Redesign, Rethink, ‘Overview of the Circular Economy in Fashion and Textiles’ Slides 66-79: Charles Ross FRSA, Sustainability specialist, ‘The end of consumerism 1.0? Living in a time of change’
  • 3. 3 The Fashion & Textile Sector: Impact on the Environment.  80 billion garments  2 billion blue jeans  7,000 litres of water for each pair  2,700 litres for a T shirt  8,000+ synthetic chemicals  20% of the world’s water pollution
  • 4. 4 The Fashion & Textile Sector: Impact on the Environment.  2000: 34 garments  2010: 67 garments  32kgs of clothing thrown out  85% to landfill  10% Garments never sold, never worn = landfill
  • 5. 5 The RESET Project  Identify good practice: approaches that work  6 areas  Share and build into national programmes  (Hopefully,) funded by UK funds
  • 6. 6 The RESET Project and Interreg Programme video is now visible on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6CsaBe14xk
  • 8. 8 RESET Visit our RESET website: www.interregeurope.eu/reset/ Follow us on social media: Facebook: @RESETProject2016 Twitter: @RESETProjectEU LinkedIn: RESET Project YouTube: RESET Project
  • 10. Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) as a Platform for Business Change Leveraging technology to meet industry challenges ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 10
  • 11. Introductions and Agenda Jo Conlon FHEA, MCMI, C.Text.ATI  Textile Technology graduate with 18 years experience in the clothing industry  Technical and Sourcing Manager  Joined UoH 2009, Fellow of the Higher Education Academy, a member of the Chartered Management Institute and an Associate of the Textile Industry ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 11 Lakshmi Narayanaswamy – Lead Consultant  An Engineering graduate (Textile technology) with 12 years of Experience. Played various roles in Apparel Industry including sourcing & vendor management  Key PLM Engagements : George-Asda (U.K), Lacoste(France), LCWaikiki(Turkey)
  • 12. PLM at the University of Huddersfield  Future professionals as change-agents  A transformational mind-set is required for strategic organizational efforts like PLM that are more complex than just a technology implementation  People, product and processes ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 12 Recolour dark lime
  • 13. What is product lifecycle management (PLM)? ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 13 PLM 1.0 Operational Excellence PLM 2.0 Digital Industry
  • 14. PLM 1.0 Driving Operational Excellence ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 14 Improve quality Improve productivity ReduceTTM Reduce admin overhead Reduce rework and scrap Improve customer satisfaction Business process improvement Enhance collaboration with supply chain
  • 15. ©2016 ITC INFOTECH. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 15 PLM 2.0 LANDSCAPE Process Optimization Adoption Support Upgrade Application Support Integration with DAM & PIM Integration with Ecommerce & Mock shop Integration with ERP Integration With Planning tools Sustainability PLM Analytics Material Aggregation Vendor Performance Management Production & Order Tracking E-learning Mobility Reporting Factory Maturity Mapping NextGen PLM Role based Apps Benefit Case Framework Integration with 3D Modeler Vendor Portal Factory Compliance PROCESS Transformation PLM operates at cutting edge of information and technology, to transform enterprise’s business model Differentiation Emerging technologies and Solutions can provide data and improve decision making Enablement A strong PLM core is an enabling platform for change
  • 16. What’s being done today? ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 16 INNOVATION IN MATERIALS Fly knit - produces 60% less waste than traditional cut- and-sew methods. Since 2012, the technology has reduced nearly 3.5M pounds of waste RECYCLE Used Tee shirts to new jeans Plastic Bottles to Performance Products RE WEAR & REUSE Second hand clothes Turn into Other Products, like industrial rag, insulation, running tracks etc. RENEWABLE ENERGY Move towards using renewable energy sources REPAIR Empowering customers by making quality products that can be repaired and encouraging the same
  • 17. Sustainable Apparel coalition ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 17All trademarks are the registered property of the respective companies and are acknowledged. Generates standardized performance scores Measure Environmental and Social impacts on Sustainability Online self-assessment tool for Apparel and Footwear Industry Gives an overview of the sustainability performance of a product and a company
  • 18. Higg index ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 18 • Allow Brands to benchmark their performance and discover where they stand compared to other Brands. • Can share score with other SAC members, which can lead to sharing best practices and new partnerships • Benchmarking by facility type allows facility managers to compare their performance against their peers. • Can identify areas for improvement and outline the current best practices in the field • Helps to measure environmental impact of the product at different stages of Product Life Cycle • Engage designers and developers in making sustainable choices at the very earliest stage of prototype design BRAND FACILITY PRODUCT
  • 19. Environmental Impacts at every stage product lifecycle Lets set one common standard which can be used globally ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 19 Fiber Production Fabric Production and Processing Garment Manufacturing Garment Processing Packaging Distribution Customer Use End of Life Energy Used and Green Houses Gas Emissions         Water Used     Chemicals Used      Waste Generation       PRODUCT LIFECYCLE
  • 20. MSI (Material Sustainability Index) Framework ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 20 Qualitative Scoring (50 points) Quantitative Scoring (50 points) Chemistry Energy Water Waste MSI Framework Recycled content Fiber Certifications Green Chemistry Verifications Coating Finishes Creating a common baseline for material performance for Manufacturers & retailors Data on thousands of Material types MSI contributor tool – allows manufacturers and retailors submit data back to Higg MSI Achieve the environmental and social transparency that consumers are starting to demand
  • 21. Solution Approach ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 21 Product Sustainability Define Create Pull Compare View Analyze Define the Target Sustainability Scores for each category during Planning Stage Create the Product and enter the details for ‘Sustainability Sections ‘ in the Product Pull the Fabrics and Trims on Product BOM and get the Material Section Score Compare the ‘Target Vs Actual’ Product Sustainability Score Check Line Sheet to view the ‘Product Sustainability Status’ in a single view Review and Analyze the Products Section-1 Score Section-II Score Section-III Score Section-IV Score Section-V Score Material Section Score Manufacturing Section Score Packaging Section Score Product Use Section Score End of Use Section Score Final Product Score
  • 22. Screenshots – Fabrics & Bill of Materials ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 22
  • 23. Screenshots product score ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 23
  • 24. SUSTAINABILITY SOLUTION Impact / Benefits Auto-Populate Product Score  Store all the standard materials and auto-calculate the Product Score along with the scores  Ability to add/update sustainability documents on Material/Product ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. 24 Stream- lined Processes Single- Version of Truth Re- usability Enhance Adoption Rate Well Defined Roles & Responsibi lities Speed-to- Market Plan Collection with Sustainability Target  Set a direction for the designers to plan collection accordingly  Can export the data in excel/pdf format Generate Reports  Generate a consolidated report for each Season  Can identify areas for improvement  Can track how much % of Sustainability Target has been achieved Dashboards  Can get a Snapshot of Sustainability score for each Product in a Season PLM
  • 25. Thank you Connect with us to understand how ITC Infotech can help your business. Email: contact.us@itcinfotech.com Web: www.itcinfotech.com ©2017 ITC Infotech. All Rights Reserved. All trademarks are the registered property of the respective companies and are acknowledged. 25
  • 26. © Camira Pulling apart the linear model at Camira
  • 27. © Camira The need for a circular shift
  • 28. © Camira A bit about us • From Camborne to Interface to Camira • Design & manufacture 8 million metres / year • Recognised for environmental innovation
  • 29. © Camira 1998 ReSKU reclaimed wool 2000 Acquired Teknit (CTK) No waste, knit to fit 2008 World first: Sting nettle fabric
  • 30. © Camira 2009 Xtreme becomes 100% Recycled 2011 Hemp fabric 2012 Traceable wool Closed-loop polyester
  • 31. © Camira 2013 Zero landfill Century 2014 Main Line Flax 2016 Rivet: Post-consumer recycled polyester
  • 32. © Camira Journey to 0% landfill 0 50000 100000 150000 200000 250000 300000 350000 400000 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Kg to Landfill • 340 tonnes in 2009, reduced to 0 in 2013 • Closed loop polyester system • Re-use of packaging and materials between suppliers • Improved segregation systems throughout the facility • Cultural importance and increasing engagement and awareness
  • 33. © Camira Closed-loop process Recycling process – shredded, extruded Converted into new polymer chips Returned to Yarn Manufacturer Polyester Selvedge and Yarn Waste Filament extrusion Delivery to Camira Finished recycled yarn Warping and Weaving
  • 34. © Camira Taking-back • Waste management system • Take-back schemes with a number of UK customers • 2014- 16 we took back around 100 tonnes of textiles
  • 35. © Camira The Survivor Sofa • Collaboration with The Great Recovery project • Exploring waste, systems, design and circular opportunities • Documentary on Community Channel and BBC iPlayer
  • 37. © Camira Challenges • Balancing performance with sustainability • Flammability/treatment requirements • Extending to post-consumer waste • Commercial viability!
  • 38. © Camira On a positive note • There is opportunity, market desire and momentum • Partnership, cooperation and communication throughout the industry is key
  • 39. © Camira Pulling apart the linear model at Camira
  • 40. @cjweetman The circular economy: re-thinking products, processes and systems Catherine Weetman MSc FCILT Re-think Solutions
  • 42. @cjweetman Industrial processes – take, make, dispose MAKE PRODUCT KEY GHG & emissions Sewage, effluent, run-off Landfill USE Store & sell TAKE MATERIALS TECHNICAL AND BIOLOGICAL MATERIALS MIXED UP ENERGY FROM FINITE SOURCES “We are using resources as if we had two planets, not one. There can be no 'plan B' because there is no 'planet B.” Ban-Ki Moon, Secretary-General, United Nations, Sept 2014
  • 43. @cjweetman 9 million people die of disease linked to waste and pollution each year – 20 times more than die from malaria i Pollution: The Silent Killer of Millions in Poor Countries (2014) Global Alliance on Health & Pollution, http://74.220.18.60/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/GAHP-PollutionSummaryNov2014DRAFT.pdf [accessed 14 June 2017] Image: trustedclothes.com Fashion is the 2nd most polluting industry in the world
  • 44. @cjweetman Circular flows: product, process, system SellManufacture Outbound logistics  Catherine Weetman 2016 Farm/ extract Make materials Use End- of- Use Recycle Resell, repair, refurbish, remanufacture
  • 45. Circular inputs Product design Process design Circular flows Enablers & accelerators BUSINESS MODELS Circular economy framework  Catherine Weetman 2016 '... The goods of today become the resources of tomorrow at yesterday's prices...‘ Professor Walter R Stahel, Product-Life Institute
  • 46. Bioesters: fibres made from brown algae http://bioesters.com/ Circular inputs • Recycled • Renewable • Safe & secure • Use less • Use it more • Use it again • Use less • Waste = food • Renewables Circular flows • Reuse • Remanufacture • Recycle MycoWorks: ‘mushroom’ leather http://www.mycoworks.com/ Piñatex™ fabric from pineapple leaves
  • 47. Circular inputs Circular inputs • Recycled • Renewable • Safe & secure Product design • Use less • Use it more • Use it again Process design • Use less • Waste = food • Renewables Circular flows • Reuse • Remanufacture • Recycle Tidal Vision: vegetable based tanning process for making aquatic leathers from fish skins http://tidalvisionusa.com Bionic: high performance yarn using Recycled PET http://bionic.is/
  • 48. Fashion Positive C2C certified materials Source: http://www.fashionpositive.org/fashionpositivematerials/
  • 49. Climatex Lifecycle fabric •Swiss firm Rohner produces the Climatex Lifecycle biodegradable fabric, used extensively in the office furniture manufacturing business. The material is compostable, and true to the C2C founding principle of “waste = food”. •By 2002, Climatex Lifecycle accounted for a third of Rohner’s approximately $8 million in revenues (source: Investor Environmental Health Network). •Source: EllenMacArthur Foundation Circular inputs Product design • Use less • Use it more • Use it again Process design Circular flows
  • 50. Product design fashion Circular inputs Product design • Use less • Use it more • Use it again Process design Circular flows Recycling a shoe made from one fabric is much easier than one consisting of over 60 different parts. Designer Ammo Liao created the Bio-Knit shoe, with one material processed in three different ways, all used in one shoe: •the material is woven & heated to form the upper, •the same material is laser-etched to form the inner, •and 3D-printed to create the sole. Source: http://close-the-loop.be/en/case/19/bio-knit wear2™ is a new textile process technology, enabling garments to be selectively disassembled at end of life. http://niri.technology/case_studies/wear-2/ • Recycled laminate • Climate-neutral process • Fabrics and linings 100% recycled polyester • Digital printing • Fully recyclable, with in-built return label Sympatex closes the loop with outdoor concept jacket 4.0 May 2017
  • 51. Process - Levis Water-less Circular inputs Product design Process design • Use less • Waste = food • Renewables Circular flows Unmade is the technology and manufacturing platform enabling the world's most innovative brands to offer customisable apparel via their e- commerce platforms. Linked to an automated production system, unique knitted garments can be made for the same unit cost and speed as mass production. Source: https://www.unmade.com/about-us/
  • 52. Process design: waste=food Cotton by-products 1. Medicine: research on cotton phenol ‘gossypol’ for prostate & pancreatic cancer 2. Food: potential for use as a food oil for humans 3. Animal feed: stems and hulls can feed cattle, and shrimps in aquaculture 4. Biodiesel 5. Insulation (from recycled cloth) 6. Mulch Source: Mazzoni, M (9 Sep 2016) TriplePundit, 6 Lesser-known uses for (sustainable) cotton
  • 53. @cjweetman Trans Textile Sri Lanka IfM EPSRC Source: www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/news/high-value-products-from-industrial-waste/#.WRsIIOsrKpo Circ flows Patagonia Beanbag High-press Fibre panel Flock & 3D Print powder Denim tile
  • 54. Circ flows Patagonia Circular inputs Product design Process design Circular flows • Reuse • Remanufacture • Recycle Recover Upcycled fibres http://www.recovertex.com
  • 55. Adidas & Parley • Reuse • Remanufacture • Recycle Circular inputs Circular flows Source: http://www.adidas.com/us/parley
  • 56. Recycling • I:CO partners with brands including Levi’s, Puma, Forever 21, the North Face, and H&M • I:CO collected ~17,000 tons of clothing and shoes in 2015 • About 40% of the clothing has been recycled (6.8 tons). A good portion of that is cotton goods. Circular flows M&S Shwopping: 20m items collected 2008-16, raising £16m for Oxfam Shwopping is about bringing an unwanted item of clothing into an M&S store (even if it’s not from M&S) each time you come to buy something new. You can put your unwanted items into a ‘Shwop Drop’ box (you’ll find these by the tills in most M&S stores). All clothing goes to our partners Oxfam, who either resell it in one of their shops or on the Oxfam Online Shop, sell it to be reused in different countries around the world, or recycle the fibres to make new material eg mattress filling). Absolutely nothing goes to landfill. Oxfam use the money raised to help end extreme poverty around the world. Source: http://www.marksandspencer.com/s/plan-a-shwopping [accessed 3 March 2017]
  • 57. Mud Jeans We are a Dutch denim brand that dreams of a world in which there is no such thing as waste. What if we all clean up our own mess? This simple thought led us to a new way of thinking. Send your jeans back when you don’t wear them any longer. We reuse all materials, while you can switch to a new pair. Returned jeans are upcycled and transformed into one-of-a-kind vintage pieces. Or, when they are beyond repair, the jeans are recycled into new items. This is how we create our own circle of denim products. Rent your jeans for a year, after that you have 3 options; 1) keep it, 2) switch it, 3) send back. Even when you decide to keep the jeans, you can return them once they are worn out. We use all the materials for the creation of new fashion items. This is how we aim to build a circular fashion industry. BUSINESS MODELS
  • 59. Rype Office Rype Office case study: NHS Cardiff, UK Public Health Wales (PHW) set a remit for the interior design with three key themes, all aligned to the values of PHW and the Welsh Government: • Collaboration • Sustainability, including environmental and social • Value for money The design, supply and installation was awarded to a consortium led by Rype Office (responsible for design, furniture supply, installation and project management) with its partners Greenstream Flooring (flooring supply and installation) and Orangebox (new soft furnishings and remanufactured desk chair supply). Source: http://www.rypeoffice.com/project/nhs-cardiff/
  • 60. @cjweetman Creating new value “Businesses that work on the basis of circular principles are amongst the fastest growing in the economy” Dr Martin R Stuchtey, McKinsey Center for Business and Environment 2 “This shift to circular economic activity could help address the global job gap of 600 million” Dominic Waughray, Senior Director, World Economic Forum 1 Shifting to the circular economy could release $4.5 trillion in new economic potential by 2030 3 “Waste is only waste if you waste it.” Will.i.am Circular economy case studies - top 10 sectors Automotive Consumer durables Consumer Technology Fashion & textiles Food Industrial 1. Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2014) Towards the circular economy, vol 3. Report prepared in collaboration with the World Economic Forum and McKinsey and Company. 2. McKinsey (2015) Growth within: a circular economy vision for a competitive Europe. Report commissioned by Ellen MacArthur Foundation. 2 3. Source: Accenture https://www.accenture.com/us-en/insight-creating-advantage-circular-economy
  • 61. @cjweetman Rethinking... make use reuse remake recycle take make use dispose pollute '... The goods of today become the resources of tomorrow, at yesterday's prices...‘ Professor Walter R Stahel, Product-Life Institute To take nothing, waste nothing, do no harm, and do well by doing good, at the expense not of the planet but of less alert competitors. [Attributed to Ray Anderson, founder of Interface]
  • 62. @cjweetman Making sense of sustainability Catherine Weetman, MSc, FCILT Director, Re-think Solutions Vice Chair, Environment & Sustainability Forum, Chartered Institute of Logistics & Transport UK catherine.weetman@re-think.me.uk www.re-think.me.uk Helping you:  Evaluate the risks and opportunities  Re-think your strategy to adapt and thrive
  • 63. @cjweetman Circular Economy & Fashion Resources • Close the Loop Vlaanderen Circulair and Flanders DC have developed a tool to guide fashion entrepreneurs through the basics of a more sustainable way of working. We want to encourage the industry to steer clear of a linear system (take-make-waste) and to embrace a more circular approach instead (with a focus on durability and avoiding waste). http://www.close-the-loop.be/en • Circular Fibres Initiative brings together clothing retailers H&M and Nike, philanthropic funder the C&A Foundation, and a consortium of organizations including the Danish Fashion Institute, Fashion for Good, Cradle to Cradle and MISTRA Future Fashion in order to “build a circular economy for textiles,” starting with clothing. www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/campaigns/circular-fibres-initiative • Circular Economy Club The Circular Economy Club (CEC) is the international network of circular economy professionals. www.circulareconomyclub.com/category/circular-fashion/ • Circular Fashion By sharing new and existing knowledge, in an accessible and transparent way, it is our hope that this website can become a source of inspiration and know-how for any individual, company or organization working in the field https://circularfashion.com/
  • 64. @cjweetman Sustainable Fashion Resources Centre for Sustainable Fashion (London) http://sustainable-fashion.com/ Ecouterre – news on sustainable fashion ideas and innovation http://www.ecouterre.com/ Ethical Fashion Forum http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/ texSture: ‘strategy and innovation expert hub for textile and fashion industry’ (not updated since 2014) http://texsture.com/ Sustainable Apparel Coalition: trade organization comprised of brands, retailers, manufacturers, government, and non-governmental organizations and academic experts, representing more than a third of the global apparel and footwear market. The Coalition is working to reduce the environmental http://apparelcoalition.org/about/ Higg Index 2.0 is a suite of sustainability assessment tools that anyone can get started with right away. These assessments, called modules, evaluate impacts through our three different lenses: Facility, Brand, and Product. We encourage companies to get started with whatever module(s) makes the most sense to them, and encourage them to branch out and use other Higg Index tools when appropriate. There is no requirement to use all of the modules. http://www.apparelcoalition.org/higgindex/ Cotton Campaign: human rights in Uzbek etc http://www.cottoncampaign.org/ Better Cotton Initiative http://bettercotton.org/ Textile Recycling Association (UK) The UK's trade association for used clothing and textile collectors, sorters and reprocessors. http://www.textile-recycling.org.uk/ Fashion Positive "Launched in 2014 by Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, Fashion Positive is a movement of industry change agents, driving POSITIVE IMPACT through: Innovation in the supply chain; Providing low-interest rate loans to suppliers; Increasing transparency; Creating safe and perpetually cycled materials for designers and brands. Using Cradle to Cradle framework and the requirements of the Institute’s Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Products Program, Fashion Positive brands and supply chain partners can develop truly innovative products and materials to transform the fashion industry and the world. http://www.fashionpositive.org/ Made-By We are an award-winning European not-for-profit organisation, acting to improve environmental and social conditions within the fashion industry. Provides consultancy and benchmarks http://www.made-by.org/ Global Change Award network The Global Change Award is an innovation challenge initiated by the H&M Conscious Foundation looking for bold ideas that can help protect our planet by closing the loop for fashion. The GCA Network is a public space for ideas on how to make the fashion industry more circular and a network for their creators. https://network.globalchangeaward.com/ Fashion Transparency Index "Following the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse that killed 1,134 people in 2013, the Fashion Revolution team was compelled to demand more transparency from the fashion industry. To help the public learn where their clothes came from and how they were made, they co-developed the Fashion Transparency Index with Ethical Consumer. http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/ethicalcampaigns/fashionrevolution.aspx
  • 65. @cjweetman Circular Economy – introductions BBC R4 Global Business: The Circular Economy 22 Jan 2015 Peter Day talks with the record breaking yachtswoman, Ellen MacArthur, and Unilever CEO, Paul Polman, about their work promoting the circular economy – where resources are reused and waste reduced to zero and asks how businesses can put these ideas into practice. http://downloads.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/radio/worldbiz/worldbiz_20150122-0730a.mp3 Peter Day talks to the record-breaking sailor, to Unilever, and to the creators of an innovative urban farm in New Jersey about why these concepts are so important and how businesses can take them on board. http://downloads.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/radio/worldbiz/worldbiz_20150423-2101b.mp3 EMF Re-thinking progress - Linear to Circular economy 3:48 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCRKvDyyHmI&ind ex=1&list=WL https://youtu.be/zCRKvDyyHmI And Get Loopy, with Steve Punt https://youtu.be/DGERjaaY40g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGERjaaY40g&feature=em-hot-vrecs
  • 66. The End of Consumerism 1.0 Do I dare to use the disruption word? Our relationship with stuff is complex Our relationship with clothing is more so Charles Ross
  • 67. Is it that Fashion makes vanity? Form follows Fantasy
  • 68. Best thing about Performance Sportswear Design Form follows Function
  • 69. We live in a state of permanent sale – we benefit because someone else is making it cheaply There also is the rise of the non-consumer gig economy the Conscious Consumer, the Stuffocation Generation, Generation Rent Clear Your Clutter Day… The first of Gen Z are finishing their 2nd Year at University the Millennials are finishing CSM o/d £75k they have bought with provenance & claim to care #FashRev Can you answer the question?
  • 70. Buy Once, Buy Right? “There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper. The people who consider price only are this man’s lawful prey. When you pay too much, you lose a little money – that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do”
  • 71. We live in a time of change. We need to use our powers for good. West to East Male to Female Old to Young Retailer to “consumer” Professional to amateur Physical to digital Facts to post-truth Jobs to a calling Product to service
  • 72. And of course the biggest of them all: People to Machines We live in the most exciting of times The rise of the P2P economy. The advent of the circular economy. The democratisation of innovation, design, production, commerce and retail. Amateur-professional. Permission to follow your passion. A revolution in the way we learn. The future is bright. But not like the past.
  • 73. The Less is More Generation Phones Wireless Cooking Fireless Cars Keyless Food Fatless Tyres Tubeless Dresses Sleeveless Youth Jobless Leaders Shameless Relationships Meaningless Attitudes Careless Wives Fearless Babies Fatherless Feelings Heartless Education Valueless Children Mannerless
  • 74. Everything is becoming less but still our hopes are Fearless Welcome to the 21st Century Amazon didn’t kill retail Netflix didn’t do it to Blockbuster Uber didn’t strangle taxis apple didn’t squash the music industry AirBnB didn’t challenge hotels Technology by itself is not the great disruptor Being non-consumer centric is
  • 75. The question that has to be addressed How do we make more money by selling less stuff? This is the defining challenge of our time
  • 76. Amongst all this new technology The greenest jacket is the one you already own…
  • 77. The nearly at the end page (prompting your questions) Charles Ross consultant/ journo/ PSD lecturer FRSA <charles@email.com> Two recommendations: Do Disrupt – Mark Shayler Do Wales: July 6 – 9th
  • 78. It is not sufficient to do things better, we need to do better things In the future only companies that make sustainability a goal will achieve competitive advantage. This means rethinking business models as well as products, technologies & processes In the long term the environment & the economy are the same thing. If it is un-environmental, it is un-economic. That is the rule of nature We are all better than we know. If we can be brought to realise this, we may never again be prepared to settle for anything less Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. It is our light, not our darkness that frightens us… Eco & Economy are both derived from the same Greek word: household The people will not revolt. They will not look up from their screens long enough to notice what’s happening
  • 79. Its easy to let go of your purpose