The art of fragrance&flavor creation

The Art & Science of Fragrance & Flavor Creation Society of Flavor Chemist’s December 4, 2003 John C. Leffingwell

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Earliest items of commerce were most likely spices, gums and other fragrant plants .

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

Perfume Vessel Symbolizing Unification - Reign of Tutankhamon Calcite pots filled with spices such as frankincense preserved in fat still gave off a faint odor when opened in King Tutankhamen's tomb after 3,000 years Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object]

By the 7th century BC, Athens had developed into a mercantile center in which hundreds of perfumers set up shop. Trade was heavy in fragrant herbs such as marjoram, lily, thyme, sage, anise, rose and iris, infused into olive, almond, castor and linseed oils to make thick unguents. These were sold in small, elaborately decorated ceramic pots, similar to the small jars still sold in Athens today. Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Greek Perfume Urns

[object Object],[object Object],Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Still of Democritus ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

By the 1st century AD, Rome was using about 2,800 tons of imported frankincense and 550 tons of myrrh per year. Nero, Roman emperor in 54 AD, spent the equivalent of $100,000 to scent just one party he was giving . No “Orgy” was complete without perfume. Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object]

Former Tyco CEO Dennis Kozlowski Today’s Nero Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object]

"Then took Mary a pound of ointment of spikenard, very costly, and anointed the feet of Jesus, and wiped his feet with her hair: and the house was filled with the odour of the ointment." John 12:3 Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Fragrance occurs, at least symbolically, throughout the New Testament. The frankincense and myrrh brought to the Christ child were more valuable than the gift of gold (if indeed it was gold; some speculate that the three wise men may have been carrying gold-colored, fragrant ambergris).

Mary Prophetissa (Prophetissima) aka Maria the Jewess Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Invented the double boiler, also known as a Bain Marie, or Mary's Bath… as well as the first true still which she called the tribokos. It consisted of copper tubing, ceramic pottery, and metal. When heated, vapors from plant material and water would condense on the inside of the still, then trickle down and collect in a bottle. The tribokos

Mary Prophetissa (Prophetissima) aka Maria the Jewess Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Her design and many later modifications were used to distill essential oils, but also proved useful for alcoholic beverages. And with the still dawned the new Age of Alchemy

Ibn Sina (Avicenna) – a famous Arab physician and alchemist that wrote over 400 books on medicine, philosophy, geology, mathematics, astronomy, and logic, is credited with significantly improving the art of distillation by adding a water cooled jacket around the cooling coil. Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object]

Quite A Trade Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],16 th & 17 th centuries - Southern France (Grasse) becomes a center of expertise for the growing, extraction and distillation of essential oils. France becomes the the Perfume center of the world. Large scale cultivation & processing of valuable plants for oils such as rose soon was centered there. And raw materials from around the world were imported for processing. Extraction & distillation techniques were refined.

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Perfume Factory - Grasse Lavender field near Grasse

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],Jasmine flowers laid out on the fat Grasse - Chiris factory - early 20th century Preparing the frame with fat

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],beta-Pinene alpha-Pinene Camphene Camphor ,[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Civetone Muscone Civet Cat Viverra civetta Musk Deer Moschus moschiferus L. ,[object Object]

[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],beta-Pinene Myrcene Linalool Geraniol Citronellol Citronellal Menthol Linalyl Acetate ,[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],GC- MS analysis Detective work Distillation & extraction Volatiles from a living flower

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 24.00 26.00 28.00 30.00 32.00 34.00 36.00 0 2000000 4000000 6000000 8000000 1e+07 1.2e+07 1.4e+07 1.6e+07 Time--> Abundance GC-MS Analysis of a Meat Flavor Peak Identified as Furfuryl Mercaptan Powerful Coffee Aroma Peaks are 2-Methyl-2,3-dihydrofuran-3-thiol isomers Powerful meat-like aroma

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Odor Unit = Concentration Odor Threshold

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Parfume de Campange by Guy Begin

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],France - late 19th century France - circa 1935 Spain - 1903

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],Zica-Alexa - Year 2000

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science Multidisciplinary Fields ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],OLFACTION & GUSTATION

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],OLFACTION & GUSTATION Multidisciplinary Fields ,[object Object]

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science Taste Buds in epithelium of tongue, soft palate, pharynx, larynx and epiglottis. 2000-5000 taste buds in humans, but large variation. Taste (Gustation) - sensitivity to substances in solution TASTE = GUSTATION

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science TASTE = GUSTATION ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],A 5 th taste sensation called “Umani” is now recognized. Most common example is MSG (Monosodium glutamate) which enhances meat flavor.

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science Smell (Olfaction) - sensitivity to substances in gaseous phase - a distant sense SMELL = OLFACTION

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science How We Smell - Odorants are volatile chemicals carried by inhaled air to the Regio olfactoria (olfactory epithelium) located in the roof of the two nasal cavities of the human nose, just below and between the eyes. The olfactory region of each of the two nasal passages in humans is a small area of about 2.5 square centimeters containing in total approximately 50 million primary sensory receptor cells. Olfactory Region (Regio olfactoria)

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],The olfactory region consists of cilia projecting down out of the olfactory epithelium. The olfactory cilia are the sites where molecular reception with the odorant occurs and sensory transduction (i.e., transmission) starts. Olfactory Tract Mitral Cell Olfactory Nerve Olfactory Bulb Olfactory Epithelium Mucosa Air and Odorant Molecules Cilia in Mucosa Olfactory Receptor Neurons Glomerulli Olfactory Nerve Filaments Cribiform (bone) Axons

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Elucidation of Olfactory G-Protein Receptor Structures - a result of Genome Research Different Views of G-Protein Receptor Structures 900+ Human Olfactory Receptor Genes Identified – D. Lancet ~600 Pseudogenes + ~300 Intact Genes

Putative Binding cavity in Human OR1.04.06 derived using CastP ,[object Object],Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science Computer Modeling of New Odorants Olfactophoric Model of Sandalwood Odorants Javanol (Yellow) vs. beta-Santalol (Blue)

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science ,[object Object],Hardware and software platforms for incorporating scent into all forms of media... Peripheral devices that recreate thousands of scents on demand. Authoring tools for the creation of "scent scores" for movies, music, and interactive games. Software that plays scented media, such as videos, music and DVD's. Systems for transmitting scent with music and movies over the Internet. And…for the Perfumer & Flavorist – A new tool for composing creations.

Fragrance & Flavor – Art & Science The Proof is in the Pudding Chef’s and flavor application specialists determine use levels and food applications. Flavor Research

The art of fragrance&flavor creation

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