The document discusses the textiles and costumes of Rajasthan. It describes the vibrant colors that are characteristic of Rajasthani textiles which feature techniques like tie-dye, block printing, embroidery and others. The block printing centers of Sanganer and Bagru are mentioned. It also details the traditional costumes worn by Rajasthani women including the puthia, kanchli, kurti and ghaghra skirt, along with fabrics and designs specific to different regions and communities. Metal embroidery, quilting and other crafts are also summarized.

1. TEXTILESAND COSTUMES OF RAJASTHAN

2. In Rajasthan, you
can not ignore the
charm of colourful
prints, which have
been stealing the
heart of
Rajasthani women
for centuries and
now grabbing the
attention of the
entire world.

3. TEXTILES OF RAJASTHAN
Rajasthan is a land of vibrant colours; these colours
are a striking part of the Rajasthani life and are
found in the bustling bazars, in fairs & festivals, in
the costumes worn and in the traditional paintings
& murals. Rajasthani textiles are the representative
of that myriad hue woven in the cloth. Be it the
multi coloured tie and dye work or excellent block
printing, Rajasthan astonishes the entire world with
its skill and efficiency.

5.  TheTextile of Rajasthan has a
fascinating range of dyed and block
printing fabrics. Each state has its
own special colour-scheme
design and technique.

6. Some of Rajasthan textiles
are-
Hand-block prints- the quilts of Sanganer, Bagru are the
favorites.
Tie and dye- Bandhej, Bandani, Lehriya, Batik, Mothra, Ekdali,
Shikari, Cheent comes under this category.
Bandhej- Bandhej of Jodhpur, Sikar, Jaisalmer, Barmer, Pali,
Udaipur, Jaipur is more popular.
Zari- Gota, zardosi, banarsi for formal and bridal ensembles,
metallic and threaded embroidery.

7.  The lehriya is an entire line of cloth is dyed in different
colours. Udaipur's lehriya work is well known. Samdar
Lehar, Phagun are the designs to be worn in the spring
season.
Textile and fabric colouring and dying can be seen at
length in the communities of Leelgarhs and Rangrez.
The Chunari and Bandhej (the art of tying a small
point on the cloth by threads and later dyed with the
required colours. After drying when opened, there is a
small circle in the white splashed around the fabric) is
known as tie and dye. Jodhpur, Jaipur, Bikaner are
famous for this.

9. Dyeing in Rajasthan has a special significance for
its tie and dye Cloth.
Rajasthan also has a wealth of dye yielding
plant and waters of its river seen to have special
properties that derive the vivacity of the color in
which the material is dyed.
The fabric that is used for dyeing is GREIRGE
cloth or unprocessed material.
Natural material are commonly used for dyeing
includes Alizarin, alum, myrobulan, iron tilings,
turmeric , kesula flower ,indigo and
pomegranated rind.
DYEING IN RAJASTHAN

11. Alizarin is red dye. Pomegranated rind ,turmeric
is yellow dye.Neel or Indigo is blue dye.
Rajasthan has number of dyeing centers.
The most prominent centers are at jodhpur,
Jaipur and sikar.
Sikar produce some of the finest dyeing fabrics
and they produce range of patterns which are
made for different communities in Rajasthan
,Haryana and even Punjab.

12. Leheriya
Leheriya is widely known variation of design in
fabric that is produced using tie and dye
technique.
The term leheriya means “WAVE”. The dyer
creates wave like pattern by producing diagonal
strips on fabric.
Practised mostly in jodhpur , jaipur and udaipur.
Fabric usually used are delicate light fabric such
as cotton voile, fine silk and chiffon.

13. LEHERIYA

14. LEHERIYA

15. A checkered pattern is called “MOTHRO” and is
produced by intersecting diagonal strips.
SATRANGA and PANCHRANGA are other
beautiful patterns .
GANDADAR , PRATAPSHAHI , RAJASHAHI ,
SAMUDRALEHAR and SALAIDAR are again
variations on strips.

16. Block printing
Block printing is well known in Rajasthan especially
in Jaipur and Jodhpur. It is practiced in almost every
village in Rajasthan.
Most famous center are Sanganer ,Bagru .Block
printing are done by Blocks known as
“CHHAPPA”
Poppy ,rose ,lotus usually against white
background are characteristic of fabric printed at
sanganer.
Wild flowers, buds and foilage are inspiration to the
printers of Bagru.

17. BLOCK PRINTING

19. Rajasthan is the heartland of hand-block printing. Stunning,
unusual combinations of scarlet shocking pink, purple and
orange, turquoise and parrot green, saffron and crimson,
shot with gold and silver steal the limelight in any
gathering. The process of hand block printing includes
artisans to soak carved wooden blocks in different colours and
then paste them on the fabric thus creating some magical
wonder on the piece of cloth. Exquisite floral prints and
designs made in vegetable colour is the specialty of Rajasthan
block printing. The art of Khari or overprinting in gold is also
practiced in Rajasthan.This makes the traditional form of
block printing even more charming and contemporary.

21. Usually motifs on fabric are blend of flowers , buds,
leaves and other forms such as KERI(mango) ,
PAN , KATAR and JHUMKA.
The GAD , REKH and DATTA are three types of
blocks that are distinguishable by their different
style of carving.

22. Ajrak printing
Ajrak printing has become famous all over the
northwestern states of india.
Gujarat is major Hub for this ajrak printing.
The ajrak technique is used to create various
Functional garment like the head covering
,sarong ,lungi .
Meghval and sindhi muslim women wear Ajrak
printed gharghra and odhani.

23. AJRAK PRINTING

24. AJRAK PRINT

25. Khadi and chamki work
The khadi and chamki work is popular because it
enhances the glamour of the fabric , even the
plainest textile.
Chamki work is also known asTinsel printing.
Most common motifs used in khadi printing are
Phul , Mogra , Chandani , Buti, Keri , Mor and
Khaja.

26. KHADI AND CHAMKI WORK

28. Weaving in Rajasthan
The art of interlacing yarns is well known in
Rajasthan for ages.
The basic step of weaving in Rajasthan is
shedding , picking, beating ,taking up and
letting off followed by the secondary steps.
The village weaver in Rajasthan traditionally
produces two type of cotton cloth , the
KHAADI and the REZA

29. WEAVING

30. PATTU weaving
This weaving is famous for its particular
weaving style of special shawls or blanket.
The pattu is a term derived from a word “patti”
which means narrow strips.
Cream ,brown and black color are usually
used in Pattu weave.
Synthetic dyes are also used in bright red,
saffron , blue , green , pink and orange.

31. PATTU WEAVE

32. PATTU WEAVING

33. Embroidery in Rajasthan
Rajasthani textiles come in a fascinating range of
dyed and block-printed fabric which are further
embellished with embroidery.The women of
Rajasthan have mastered the art of embroidering
fabrics. In applique, different pieces of cloth are
patched together to make a multi-coloured mosaic.
The exotic colours, shapes and pattern combinations
against contrasting backgrounds catch the eye.
Inspired from the neighbouring state Gujarat, the
mirror work is also famous among the local women
and people

34. Metal embroidery
A popular embroidery style in Rajasthan.
Embroidery in gold and silver giving it an
auspicious look.
Metal embroidery can be classified into three
kind:
 ZARDOSI
 GOTAWORK
 DANKE –KA-KAAM

36. Mochi bharat
Mochi bharat is actually
developed to ornament
leather object and is usually
created on shoes , animal
saddles and trappings.

37. MOCHI BHARAT EMBROIDERY

38. Suf bharat
This embroidery style bears
a resembles to phulkari of
punjab , baluchi embroidery
of iran and the needlework
of swat ,hazara of pakistan

40. Pakko bharat
Pakko bharat is so called for its
sturdiness and longevity.
Both Geometrical and Floral
motifs are used.

41. Pakko bharat

42. kharak
Its characteristic feature is its
cluster of narrow band or bars of
satin stitch.
Accentuated by green, white , pink ,
yellow with a stark black outline.

43. Kharak

44. Mukke-ka-kaam
The gold and silver metal
thread are known as mukke-
ka-kaam that produces
stunning embroideries.

45. Mukke-ka-kaam embroidery

46. Quilting
Quilting and patchwork are highly renowned
Textile craft in Rajasthan.
The Ralli or Quilt is best known of all
these items that involves patchwork and
quilting.

47. Quilting

49. COSTUMES OF RAJASTHAN
Costume of Rajasthan are extremely bright , colorful and
Elegant.The beautifully designed and vibrantly colored clothes
Lend cheerfulness to dull colored monotone of the sands and hills.
Interesting costumes and jewellery of these desert people are not
Mere ornament to them . Everything to the head to toe including
The clothes ,turbans, jewellery and even the footwear's establish
The identity , religion and the economic social status of the
Population in Rajasthan.
The clothes are so designed keeping in mind the climatic
Condition in which the live.

51. COSTUMES OF RAJASTHANI WOMEN
The costume of Rajasthan are
much like the region and culture
itself.
The most commonly worn attire
by the women in Rajasthan has
been a combination of upper
garment clothing that includes
the puthia ,Kanchi , kurti and
the lower garment includes
ghaghra or skirt. Odhani or veil
is drapped across the body.

53. Puthia
Puthia is the upper part of the attire of rajasthani women
Giving a sober look.
Newborn babies, young unmarried girls ,elderly women's and
Widows wear puthia as upper garment.
Puthia indicates the non-fertile ,sexually inactive phase of a
women’s life. Its very much a like to the angrakha but a shorter
Version.
Puthia is a double breasted garment with the higher flap crossing
The right side and tied with a cord under the left armpit.
A newborn baby wears a red puthia with green piping while an
unmarried girl usually wears a white puthia with red piping with
some floral designs on it which is usually of satin , cotton , brocade
or velvet fabric.

54. Kanchli
It is often known as choli or angia worn
by married women of rajasthan.
Although kanchlis are sometimes
made from Satin, silk, velvet but cotton
is most preffered Fabric for this attire
throughout india.

56. Kurti
The kurti is an upper garment worn with a kanchli.
The kurti is usually a sleeveless garment with a deep,horseshoe
shaped neckline. Since the neck is expanded, most of the
kanchli worn underneath is clearly exposed.
The kurti has its front open, much like a jacket, where the left side
has an extension for an overlap over the right part.
The Rajput kurti has no centre-front opening and is easily
slipped over the head.

58. GHAGHRA
Ghagra is one of the most gorgeous and feminine
attire forWomen wore it as a lower garment. It
later evolved into a skirt with a drawstring called
the ghaghri. The ghaghri was a narrow skirt,
made from five and a half metres of fabric -
the same length as the original antariya.Indian
women.The kalidar ghaghra is the most popular
of these attires. It is a long garment with
numerous vertical pleats. It is like a gored skirt in
construction, each gore being a triangular
section, known as a kali.

60. Odhana
The odhna is also called as odhni. It is a veil that
represents the continuation of an unbroken
tradition of wearing unstitched lengths of fabric
that was the favored style of clothing during
ancient India. It is a rectangular cloth, 3-4 meters
in length and 1.25-2 meters wide.

62. The chunri is the most frequently used.This is a tie-
dyed odhni for the married woman of Rajasthan and
its loveliness is often extolled in folk songs and stories.
It is usually red, with designs like birds, flowers and
leaves that are set in white. Another kind of odhna is
the pila. It has a yellow base, a red central motif and
borders and is symbolic of the arrival of a newborn in
the family in Rajasthan.The lotus flower, a symbol
of purity and fertility, lends its name to an odhna
called the pomcha, which is made in bandhej and is
a combination of red and yellow or red and pink.The
borders and central flower are bright red on a ground
of pink or yellow.

63. BANDI
Bandi, Costume for Rajasthani Women Bandi is an
inner garment of the Rajasthani men, which is
very similar to the urban vests in India.The bandi is
a close fitting, sleeveless or, sometimes, short-
sleeved inner garment that is very much similar to
the omnipresent vests of urban areas.The bandi
generally features a round neck in the front and
the back.

64. Small kid in kesariya bandi
and dhoti

65. COSTUMES OF RAJASTHANI MEN
The lower garment of Rajasthani
men is the unstitched dhoti,
the truly native Indian
costume, or a stitched garment
such as the pyjama, which is a
type of trouser.The two upper
garments worn by the
Rajasthani men
are the bandi and the angarkhi,
although today the kurta is
considered to be the traditional
wear.

66. Among royalty and the aristocracy, garments
like the jama, achkan, shervani and choga are
also worn. Interestingly, the Rajasthani men
have a wide range of upper garments to
satisfy their sartorial tastes.Two other such
rajasthani men garments are the chapkan
and the chasuble.The men in Rajasthan wear
colourful headgears called the pagri or the
turban depending upon the climatic condition
of the particular region.

67. Kurta is the most common upper garment of
Rajasthan that is lately adopted as the casual
wear for many Indian men.The kalidar kurta is
made from several geometrical pieces. It has
two rectangular central panels in the back and
the front.The neck of the kurta is often round;
although it may sometimes also have a
Chinese collar and most garments have a
side pocket.The centre front opening has a
placket with buttons and buttonholes as
closures.
KURTA

69. ANGRAKHA
T The angarkha is a part of the
traditional male collection and is
worn by almost all communities in
Rajasthan.The unique design
element of an angarkha is the round-
edged, sametime, triangular
opening at the front and the inner
panel known as the parda.The
angarkha is made of plain silk or
brocade, especially for wedding
occasions. Fine cotton voile is also
used and block printed cotton, with
gold tinsel printing makes for a more
dramatic angarkha.

70. JAMA AND BAGA
The jama has a tight fitting bodice,
high-waist and a flared-skirt, which
can vary from knee to ankle length. It
is an open-fronted garment with one
panel crossed over the other on the
front, to be tied at the side just below
the right or left armpit rather than
the usual opening down in the
middle. It is kept in place by tie-cords,
which hold back the inner panel on
the inside at the waist or armpit. The
baga has a wide skirt with panels on
the side and an overlapping bodice.
The bodice is joined to the skirt by a
seam at the waist. The bagatri and
bagalbandi are also garments akin to
the baga and jama in this region.

71. CHOGA
The choga is a popular
garment amongst
the Rajasthani men.
It is described as a
long-sleeved robe
that fits freely
around the bodice
and does not have
a noticeably tailored
look.

72. The choga made of muslin or woven in the
jamdani flowered muslin style was worn in
summer. It was lightly embroidered with
silks, befitting the season. It usually had a
narrow floral border on the edges and large
floral sprays on its front, back and shoulder
and on the lower edges. In winter, woollen
and quilted choga were referred, which were
embroidered with silk and zardozi.

73. ACHKAN
The Achkan is a full-sleeved
tunic with a high round neck.
This garment has a length,
which falls about 3-5 cm. above
the knee. It has a full front
opening in the centre and is
fastened with buttons and
buttonholes.The neck is
finished with a small stand-up
collar, known as the Nehru or
Chinese collar. Another
garment of similar pattern like
Achkan is the shervani.

74. A
C
H
K
A
N

75. CUMMERBAND
Cummerbund or Patka is a waistband made from a
long, narrow, strip of cloth; it is extensively used by
Rajasthani men.
The ornamental fabric of cummerbund is placed
around the waist and the long length wrapped
several times around. It is then knotted, with its two
ends falling gracefully down the front or on the left
side.The cummerbund seems to be more decorative
than functional in nature . Fine block printing
techniques and beautiful embroideries usually
embellish the cummerbund. Cotton, silk and,
sometimes, wool are also used to make
cummerbund, which was worn by most of the
Rajasthani royalty.

76. TURBANS
Turbans have been one of the most
prestigious accessories of the
Rajasthani men that depict royalty
and status. It has many regional
names, such aspagadi, sofa, potia,
pag, mandil or shamla . The style
of tying the turban, the colour,
design ,material, measurements,
embellishments and accessories
are dictated by many factors. The
two most commonly worn
headgear of Rajasthan besides the
turban are the pagadi and the safa.

78. JUTI
The footwear worn in Rajasthan is unique to this
region.The footwear is called the juti, mojari or
pagarkhi.The people of the Mochi community
have practised the traditional craft of making
the juti for centuries and continue to do so
even today. Other communities like the Regar
and Bhambhi, prepare the leather, from which
the juti is made.The ari-embroidery worked
in chain stitch, is a common style of
ornamentation. The tool used in this work
is also called an ari.

80. Tribal costumes of Rajasthan
There are a huge number of tribal groups in
Rajasthan and the costumes of these tribal
groups in some cases differ from the designs,
fabrics and styles according to difference of
the life style of the groups.

81.  The costumes of women and men
are different. The Bhil woman
wears an upper garment called the
`kapada`, a `ghaghra` and an
`odhna`. Earlier, the Bhil-women
used to wear a shorter knee length
skirt to facilitate movement
through the undergrowth. The
fabric used has a resist-dyed print
called `nandana`, often greenish-
blue, dark-blue or black. To the
same end, an ornament called the
`pejania` was worn on the hands,
arms and legs offering protection
from thorns and animals. The
women cover their torso and head
with an `odhna` or `lugda`, made
of hand-spun fabric that may be
block-printed, resist-dyed or
screen-printed.

82. The people of Bishnoi tribe also
carry a particular tradition in
case of their costumes. The
most important clothes of the
unmarried girls of this
community include `puthia`,
`pada` or `pothdi` and
`odhna`. Bishnoi odhnis display
a variety of prints, like the `rati-
chunri`, a red printed chunri`,
the `sundri pakodi` in cotton
and the `ludi`, which is black. A
married woman wears a
`kanchli` with a `kurti`, a
`dhabla` or `ghaghra` as her
lower garment and an `odhna`,
which she drapes over her
body.

83. The Garasia tribal community
usually wears black or red
blouses with huge
petticoats.
The men are noted for their
red or white turbans. Both
the males and females
prefer to create tattoo and
this is prevalent in the
entire community. Garasia
dress is very colourful and
attractive, both in design
and embellishment.

84. The women of Lohar tribe wear `kanchli`,
`kurti`, `ghaghra` and `odhna`.The upper
portion of the `kanchli` is profusely
ornamented with tinsel, sequins, mirrors and
silk threads.
The attire of the Lohar men consists of an
`angarkhi`, `dholi` and turban.The men wear
gold murki and other ear-rings like the `jhela`.

85. LOHAR TRIBE

86. COLOUR SYMBOLISM OF
RAJASTHAN COSTUMES
Red, yellow, parrot green, and saffron are some
colours which are considered to be kachcha,
while the pakka colours are grey, brown, dark
green, dark blue and maroon. Red is a popular
colour visible in Rajasthani costumes and is
considered auspicious, denoting well being and
joy. Traditionally it is obtained from the root of
the manjit plant and is identical with blood or
the force of human life. Red is also a sign of a
woman`s marital status. The married woman
used red sindur (vermillion), on her forehead
as embellishment and also wears a `red
chunri`. This colour also denotes erotic
connotations and is used at the time of
marriage. The colour white on the other hand
represents purity and is considered to be an
embodiment of light.

87. Jewelry of rajasthan
sarpech

88. MOTIFS GENERALLY USED

89. THANK YOU