The document provides information about various types of traditional Indian sarees including Chanderi, Maheshwari, Vichitrapuri, Banaras brocade, and Gujarati brocade sarees. It describes the origins, unique features, materials, designs, motifs, production processes, and contemporary uses of each saree type. Key details covered include the use of silver/gold threads, specific motifs like coins or flowers, traditional looms and tools, and how the sarees have evolved while maintaining their distinguishing characteristics. The document serves as an informative guide to some of the most well-known regional saree varieties in India.

1. Presented By
Jyotipant
45827
M.Sc
(Clothing& Textiles)
1
HCT -600

2. 2

3.  The Borders
1. upper border
2. lower border
 The Pallu
 The Main Body
 Blouse/Choli
 Petticoat
 Unstitched cloth, which is draped by Indian
women – it practically typifies Indian women and
showcases the vast diversity of Indian culture as a
whole.
 "Sari" is derived from the Sanskrit word which
means, "strip of fabric" and Six to nine yards in
length and can be worn in several ways, depending
upon the native of the wearer and outlook on current
fashion.
3

4. 4
Definition

5. 5

6. 6

7.  Chanderi is a town of historical importance in
Ashoknagar District of the state of Madhya Pradesh
in India.
 Madhya Pradesh has earned name and fame for
traditional gossamer fine sarees from:
 Chanderi ,
 Maheshwari
 Chanderi - its uniqueness i.e. transparency and
permanent Buttis.
 Geographic Indication (GI)
7

8. 8
Silver or
Golden threads in
Border & Pallu
Pallu Motifs
Cotton & silk
fabric
Transparency
C
H
A
N
D
E
R
I
S
A
R
E
E

9.  Angoori (grape green),
 Dalimbi (deep pink),
 GulBakshi(magenta),
 Jaamla (purple),
 Tapkeer (deep brown),
 Aamrak(golden),
 Rani(deep pink),
 Dhaani(green)
 Kaashi (light purple),
 Kassni (light violet),
 phalsa (maroon),
 katthai 9

10.  Coin, flowers , buds & leaves , Dots ,Lines & geometrical
patterns , Ashrafi, Churi, Bundi, Keri, Phul-Patti, Phul-
Buta (Sola,Aath,Cheyand Char Pankuri Ka Phul),
Baddi Ka Phul, Akhrot, Paan, Eeth, Suraj Buti, Meena
Buti, Kirkita, Rui Phul Kinar, Kalgi, Ghoongra,
Khajura, Dunaliya, Iknaliya Buti, Iknaliya Buti .
 Gold thread which was used for motifs.
 Advancement :
› Today also use silk and mercerised cotton to give the product an
innovative look.
› Now a days ,The tested zari buttis are common in use.
(Asharfi butti)
› The bright colour palette and the use of new motifs like the cypress trees
and lilies in his collection 'Mughal returns to Chanderi', has given it a
modern turnaround. 10

11. Buttis /Butta
motifs
11

12.  Taana Mechanism
 Rucch
 Handloom &Jacquard/Dobby loom
 Charkha
 Dyeing Apparatus
12

13. 13

14. 14

15. 15
Process of Chanderi Weaving
Finishing
Weaving
Warping
Yarn Opening for Weft
Dyeing
Selection of raw materials
Designing

16. • Software is used
• JAC DRAW XP
• CAD
 is done by the
master weaver on
a graph paper.
16

17. 17
Chanderi cotton
(Warp & weft -
100s or 120s )
Zari
Silk
(13/15 denier
silk)

18. 18

19. 19

20. 6. Weaving in
chanderi
20

21. 21

22.  Chanderi suits, along with
traditional saris are very popular in
the current scenario.
 Alongwith the chanderi woven suits,
Chanderi printed suits have also gone in
rage due to the availability of varied
designs and lesser prices.
 Contemporary Chanderi sarees is a
blend of modern fabrics .These sarees
range from INR 2000 to 10,000. 22

23.  As a part of the craft revival team, designers
are mixing crafts together to come up with
beautiful variations. Like this one is Chanderi
fabric with Madhubani art.
 Chanderi fabric is also popular with
traditional menswear. Chanderi kurtas
are highly popular in India.
 As usual, Chanderi has also used in the
interiors. Curtains made out of the
Chanderi fabric are beautiful as well as
inexpensive.
23

24. Maheshwari Sarees
24

25.  Maheshwar is a small town on the banks of the river
Narmada in the Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh.
 The origin of the Maheshwari sarees dates back to the
18th century, when the state of Indore in Madhya
Pradesh was ruled by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar.
 According to legends, Queen Ahilyabai ordered
craftsmen from Surat and Malwa to design special 9-yard
sarees to be gifted to royal guests and relatives.
 Advancement : These sarees were originally worn by
the ladies of royal status, but nowadays, they are
available in both national and international markets.
25

26. 26
M
A
H
E
S
H
W
A
R
I
S
A
R
E
E
Pure cotton or
in mixed silk
and cotton
thread
White colour
checks in Pallu
Coloured
Checks in Pallu
Narrow &
Reversible
Border

27.  The unique feature of a Maheshwari saree is
its reversible border. (Bugdi)
 Pure cotton or in mixed silk and cotton
thread, and generally found with stripes and
check designs and narrow border with gold
or coloured silk .
 Colours are invariably delicate and the pallav
may be in two bands – in white and
coloured.
 Kshatriyas, Bharuds, Muslims,
Kumhars and Kahars.
 Geographical indication for
maheshwar sarees and fabrics .
27

28. 28
Geometrical designs on
its border carvings/
scriptures/paintings
and wall paintings
engraved on the walls
of Fort built by
Maharani Ahilyabai in
l8th Century.

29. 1. Taana or Warp Machine:
2. Handloom
Pit Looms
Frame Looms
3. Charkha
4. Dyeing Apparatus
LOOMS/TOOLS USED
29

30. looms
30

31. Charkha
31

32. Designing
Raw Material Procurement
Dyeing
Yarn Opening for Weft and Warp
Warping
Weaving
Finishing
32

33. 1. Designing :
• it
33
• One is the main design for the sari itself that contains various
aspects like the border, the kind of motifs to be used, color
combinations etc.
• The other is the more exquisite motif or booty designing
which is done by the master weaver on a graph paper .

34. 34
Raw
Material
Cotton
Silk
Silk Zari

35. 35
3.Dyeing :
• Both cotton and silk require dyeing before they can be
used on the loom.
• For cotton, a readymade fast color dye is used
• For silk special dyes called Sando Silk are used which are
also readymade dyes.

36. Warping
36

37. 5.Weaving :
In these processes, two distinct sets
of yarns called the warp and the weft
are interlaced with each other to
form a fabric.
37

38.  Products : dupattas , salwar suits , shirts,
furnishing, like curtains and cushion covers
 Original technique used -natural dyes, but chemical dyes
being used today.
 Maheshwar Hathkargha Vikas Samiti
 The Rehwa society :
› Rehwa is a Non- profit organisation , started in 1979.
objectives:
› To sustain the hand weaving tradition of Maheshwar
› To empower the women weavers by givig employment and an income
which would improve their live
› To provide housing ,healthcare and education to the weaver,s families.
 Varieties : ‘Chandrakala’ and the ‘Baingani Chandrakala’ are
examples of plain Maheshwari sarees, while the ‘Chandratara’,
the ‘Beli’ and the ‘Parbi’ are examples of striped and checked
ones.
38

39. 39

40.  It is variants of Sambalpuri saree.
 Pasapalli Sari (pasā or gambling =Chess board)is a
handloom sari weaved mainly in the Bargarh district of
Orissa, India .
 Main source of inspiration as far as colors and patterns are
concerned is the main lord of Puri, Lord Jagannatha.
 The Bandhkala originated somewhere in the early years of
19th Century.
 The borders of this sari are usually decorative and the
`aanchal` is designed in various patterns.
 Borders are painted with the various geometric patterns
involved in creating shankha, and chakra designs.40

41. 41
Geometric
designs
(Chess
board)
Shankh
&
chakar
motifs
V
I
C
I
T
R
A
P
U
R
I
saree
Ikat
technique
Cotton &
silk
threads

42. (Advancement )
• Pasapalli saree with its distinctive orange and
white small squares on an alternate of black
and maroon big squares is a replica of a chess
board but people can customize any colour
with their own choice.
• The earlier yarns of coarse cotton have been
replaced with fine cotton, silks, tussar and a
cotton-silk mix called ‘bapta’. Gold thread
and tissues are also used to enhance the
patterns.
• sari are comes in various designs.
42

43. Variations of
vichitrapuri saree
43

44. 44

45.  Brocades known as “Kin-Khabs” that means
“cloth of gold”.
 Banaras Brocade are woven in silk, profuse use of
metal threads on the ‘pallavs’ (endpieces) and
the field of the sari .
 The weavers- Muslim
 Brocade workshops -‘karkhanahs ’
 In 2009 , Uttar Pradesh , secured Geographical
indication (GI ) rights for the ‘banaras
Brocades and sari.
45

46. 46
Zari
work
Bright
colours
B
R
O
C
A
D
E
S
A
R
E
E
Cotton &
Silk
Fabric
Butti
motifs

47. Banaras brocades
Zari brocades (patterning
is in zari )
Kincab : more Zari than
underlying silk visible
Bafta : more underlying
silk than Zari visible
Amru brocades
(patterning is in silk & not
in zari)
Abrawans
(ground material is a
transparent muslin silk or
organza )
1. Cut work : pattering in
heavier fiber than ground
2. Tarnana: weft threads
are zari not silk , creating
a metallic sheen
47

48.  Sarees were embellished with threads made from
real gold and silver for use by the royal family.
 In modern times, this has been replaced by gold and
silver coloured thread, making the saris affordable
for the general population.
48

49. 49
KONIA
CHARKHANA
PHULWAR
BULBUL
CHASHM
Khanjari
KERRY MOTIF
RUNNING PATTERN OF FLOWER AND
LEAVES
PATTERN IN CHECK, SQUARE AND
RECTANGLE
PATTERN IN DIAMOND SHAPE WITH
DOTS AT CENTER
PATTERN IN DIAMOND SHAPE WITH
DOTS AT CENTER
M
O
T
I
F
S
Geometric
Lines , circle , squares

50. 50
ADA DORIYA SMALL FLOWER MOTIF
Butti
Floral
Animals
&
birds
Bel
RUNNING FLORAL PATTERN REPEATED
ELEPHANT, PARROT ETC
Buds, leafs
SMALL FLOWER MOTIF

51. Motifs 51
KALGHA MANGO MOTIF
JAAL NET LIKE MOTIF
ASHARFI PATTERN IN COIN FORM

52. Violet-
Baijni
Orange-
Narangi
Dark
green-
Kahi
Gray-
Khaky
Red or
magenta-
Lal
Pink-
Gulabi
Lemon-
yellow-
Nimbu
Sky blue-
Asmani
black,
red
52

53.  designing the
motifs.(Kalka,
Buti and
flower and
foliage)
 Advancement
: incorporation
of geometrical
designs
Preparatory
Process
Weaving
process
Finishing
Process
• Reeling
• Dyeing (coloring)
• Warping
• Denting and Drawing
• Weaving (Jacquard
Loom)
• Karchupi
• Cutting
• Making Naksha-patta
53

54. Advancement
54

55. 1. Karchupi
2. Cutting
55

56.  Introduced in Gujarat to start with in 1940s, weavers
from Banaras started making cheaper versions of
Tanchoi sarees.
 Are famous for the intricate and small weaving
patterns over the entire surface
 Background has a satin finish.
56

57.  Gujarati brocade sarees are interwoven with rich, raised
design.
 Gujarat in India- “Manchester Of the East", has a rich
heritage of textile crafts, one popular among them is the
Brocade Saree.
 There are two main distinguishing characteristics of the
Gujarati Brocade Sari:
› Butis (circular designs)
› Floral designs
57

58.  Gharchola sari is marked by the large zari checks,
› 12 section patterns -‘bar bagh’
› 52 square saris -‘baavan bagh’.
 Motifs- Peacocks, lotus, human figures, floral patterns
,phulwari ,shikari.
 Main color - red, with white and yellow dots.
 Advancement : Green Gharcholas are also fabricated
based on personal request of the client
58

59. Zari
check
Red
colour
fabric
Small
Motifs
G
A
R
C
O
L
A
S
A
R
E
E
59

60. 60

61.  are traditionally created by weavers
residing in Kanchipuram, Tamil
 Materials used - pure, heavy silk,
zari, gold and silver thread.
 Main features among them are Korvai
and Petni.
 Korvai :Joining the border to body
of the saree
 Petni process: Mending the Pallu
portion of warp with the existing
portion of the body in each saree
61

62.  sandalwood, crafts and most
importantly, silk sarees, especially the
Mysore Crepe silk sarees.
 specialty :most minimum in design,
are elegant and famous for their
purity.
 Body is usually made up of one single
color, flanked by gold zari borders.
The pallav can have anything ranging
from a very simple to a very elaborate
design.
62

63.  Kerala is most famous for its
Kasavu Mundus and saris, which
are basically handloom, off-
white or ivory pure cotton
fabrics, bordered with brilliant
golden brocade.
 The gold kasavu.
 Non-kasavu mundu.
63

64. Recent Advancement in Brocades :
• Handloom are being replaced by power loom
• Traditional textile motifs -stylized form in new patterns to
diversify the products.
• Intricacy of zari design that was earlier in the saree of
Varanasi has been reduced to render it cost low , and to
make saree wearable in casual wears.
• Low priced saree are made with the use of artificial zari.
64
• Handloom are being replaced by power loom
• Traditional textile motifs -stylized form in new patterns to
diversify the products.
• Intricacy of zari design that was earlier in the saree of
Varanasi has been reduced to render it cost low , and to
make saree wearable in casual wears.
• Low priced saree are made with the use of artificial zari.

65. Recent Advancement
• Fabrics are dyed in a wide range of colours as compared to about
20 years ago, when limited colors were available .
• Hand loom embroidery has been replaced by CAD embroidery
for many low cost textile articles .
• Use of Zardozi embroidery by hand has minimized in today’s
• Saree and other products are made with combination of pure silk
and artificial silk (rayon , polyester) yarns with same motifs ,
to reduce the cost and to increase the traders’ incentives.
65

66. 66




67. 67

68. Plan of work
Locale of the study
Sample selection and sample size
Tool preparation for data collection
Pivot survey
Survey
Data collection
Data analysis 68

69. Age groups of Respondents 69

70. Religion of Respondents 70

71. 89
5
4
1.2
In what time do you like to wear the traditional sarees
occasionally
casually
seasonlly
any other
71
The Preferred to wear traditional saree

72. Traditional craft articles
used by respondents 72

73. Findings of the study are as
follows:
• All the respondents have not much detail knowledge about the
traditional saris.
• All the respondents affirmed that traditional saris such as Chanderi ,
Maheshwari , Vichitrapuri and Brocades are still used in India in its
traditional form.
• Contemporary look of these saris are mostly preferred by consumers
these days.
• The entire respondent reported that they wear traditional sari some
special occasion (80 per cent )rather than casual and seasonal.
73

74. Conclusion
74

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