Jamdani refers to a type of brocaded cotton fabric traditionally woven in West Bengal, India and Bangladesh. It is characterized by intricate floral motifs woven into the fabric. Tanda in India and Dhaka in Bangladesh are well known for producing fine Jamdani fabrics using delicate cotton yarns and herbal dyes. The weaving is done by hand using traditional techniques to create lightweight, transparent fabrics featuring botanical and geometric patterns in a variety of colors. Key regions like Tanda, Varanasi, and Dhaka produce distinctive Jamdani styles based on the materials and designs used.

1. JAMDANI OF TANDA & WEST
BENGAL

2. INTRODUCTION:
 Jamdani is a technique mainly
used for sari in its borders, body and
pallu.
 Jamdani or "figured muslin",
traditionally woven in Dacca, (now
Dhaka in Bangladesh), West Bengal
and Tanda in Faizabad, Uttar Pradesh,
refers to cotton fabric brocaded with
cotton and sometimes with
zari threads.

3.  Initially the Jamdani sarees were
woven for the nobles of North India,
whereas it is still practiced in Tanda
& Varanasi of Uttar Pradesh & West
Bengal.

5. HISTORY:
 'Jamdani' - the great characteristic of
fine art in hand weaving derived from a
Persian word 'Jama' meaning a 'cloth'
and 'Dana' denotes the grain or “buti”.
Jamdani style of weaving flourished
under the benign, rich and enlightened
patronage of kings and emperors.

6. FABRIC USED IN TANDA:
 Tanda fabrics are exceptionally frail
and woven in two or more tones of
white.
 Yarns of various thickness are used
for
effect of light and shade,
transparency and
opaqueness.
(The threads used for decoration are
not
cut at the edges, but are left hanging
in
the spool and then introduced into the

7. FABRIC USED IN TANDA & WEST BENGAL:
 Woven fabric in cotton,
 Several kind of Jamdani muslins are:-
 Natural-coloured
 Unbleached cotton grounds with bleached white
cotton supplementary work are traditional .
 While pastel-coloured grounds with white
supplementary work & dark-coloured grounds
with white supplementary threads are modern
innovations.

9. MANUFACTURING PROCESS:
 The fineness of muslin cloth
used to depend usually on
the art of making yarns. The
most
appropriate time for making
yarns was early morning as
the air then carried the
highest moisture. For quality
jamdani,
yarns of 200 to 250 counts
are used.
 The warp is unbleached gray
yarn and the
motifs are woven with
bleached white yarn.

10. TECHNIQUE:
 Technique is fully indigenous.
 The production methods have changed with the time.
Previously, popcorn, rice or barley was used for
starch. Before making jamdani, the designers used to
dye their yarn and starch it. For dye they used flowers
and leaves of creepers. These days weavers buy fine
yarn from the market and use chemical dyes instead
of herbal dyes.

11. DIFFERENCE IN MANUFACTURING:
 At Varanasi the crafts persons use gold
thread in addition to the bleached and
unbleached white threads.
 In Dacca coloured cotton thread is used
along with gold and white.
 The Tanda cloths are of the finest quality,
only white yarn being used for the
ornamentation.

12. MOTIFS:
TANDA:
 Plants,
 Floral motifs(Flowers, Buds)
 Whereas in West Bengal-
The main pecuiliarity of
Jamdani work is the
geometric design with floral
motifs. The expert weavers
do not need to draw the
design on paper, but instead
work from memory.

14. PATTERN:
 Sari’s consists of full embellishment
on the entire material and its border
and pallav (top end) patterns
comprising flowers set all over
in sprays butidar, or run diagonally
tircha, or formed a sort of
crisscross Jal or lay scattered at
even distance on the surface
toradar

15. Light-weight

16. COLOURS:
TANDA:
White-
• Bright gold or “light” white
•Tooth white
•Pure sandal white
•Autumn cloud white
•Autumn moon white (shard) white.
 Grey
 Red,
 Black,
 Green,
 Gold,
 Silver.

17. WEAVE:
 In this type of weave special skill
of the craftsman can be seen, by
using a bamboo splinter like a
needle, he can combine
weaving, embroidery and
ornamentation, the motifs of
flowers and buds being sewn
down as the pattern is formed
between the meeting places of
the warp and the weft(base is
mainly of plain weave).

18.  For making jamdani two weavers sit side
by side at a loom to work on the delicate
designs. Jamdani designs are made while
the fabric is still on the loom. Coarse yarns
are used for designs to make the motifs
rise above the fabric as the fabric is quite transparent. The
weavers of "Tanda" were experts in weaving of 'Awadh Jamdani'
for producing mainly sarees, dress materials, handkerchiefs.

20. VARIETIES OF JAMDANI WORK:
 A jamdani with small flowers diapered on the
fabric is known as butidar.
 If these flowers are arranged in reclined
position it is called tersa jamdani.
 It is not necessary that these designs are
made of flowers only. There can be
designs with peacocks and leaves of
creepers. If such designs cover the entire
field of the sari it is called jalar naksha.

21.  If the field is covered with rows of flowers it is
known as fulwar jamdani.
 Duria jamdani has designs of spots all over.
 Belwari jamdani with colourful golden
borders used to be made during the
Mughal period, especially for the women
of the inner court.

22. Silver & multi-
colored work

23. DHAKAI JAMDANI:
In Bangladesh, weavers use fine Egyptian cotton,
while the Indian weavers use only indigenous raw
material. The single warp is usually ornamented
with two extra weft followed by ground weft. The
original Bangladeshi sari is almost invariably on a
beige background, but new designs are more
adventorous. The gossamer thin black Jamdani
with its splash of multi colored linear or floral
motifs sprinkled generously all over the body and
border and crowned with an exquisitely designed
elaborate pallu is a feast for the eyes.
The Dhakai Jamdani is woven painstakingly by
hand on the old fashioned Jala loom, and many
take even up to one year to weave a single sari. It
feels supple to the touch and drapes gently to
reveal the contours of the wearer.

24. Tanda
West
Bengal

25. TASSAR JAMDANI SAREES:
 They are manufactured using best quality thread patterns. These
sarees comprise motifs and patterns of traditional India, and
provide an ethnic look to the wearer. Highly sought after in all
kinds textile markets of the globe, these sarees are known for:
 Elegance
 Eye-catching interplay of colors
 Traditional Indian motifs

26.  In short ,Jamdanis are very thinly textured
muslins (white thin cloth) with floral, bird and
animal motifs which are woven on the
loom.

27. ACCESSORIES:

28. THANK YOU……..