This document provides information on various traditional textiles from different regions of India, including Sindhi embroidery from Gujarat, Kashmiri shawls, Phulkari embroidery from Punjab, Kalamkari printing from Andhra Pradesh, Mudhubani painting from Bihar, Bandhani tie-dye from Rajasthan and Gujarat, Chikankari embroidery from Uttar Pradesh, Kasuti embroidery from Karnataka, Kantha quilting from Bengal, and Baluchari, Jamdani, Ikat, Patola and Pochampally woven textiles. For each style, the document outlines the base fabrics, threads, stitches, motifs and products typically featuring each textile

1. USE OF
TRADITIONAL
TEXTILES IN INDIA
Compiled and Edited By
Ajita Gupta
Research Scholar
Dayalbagh Educational
Institute

2. SINDHI OF GUJRAT
 Sindhi is done in Sindhi area of
GUJARAT.
 Base Fabric :- Cotton of white, Indigo
color.
 Stitches :- Darning, Chain & Herring bone
stitch, Buttonhole Stitch.
 Motifs :- Geometric, Border, Eight pointed
star pattern , Mirrors, Floral, Peacock,
Animals, Birds, Trees etc.

3. SOFA COVERS BED COVERS
TOPI

4. CUSHION COVERS TABLE COVERS

5. WALL HANGING
HAND BAG

6. EARINGS
BOOK COVERSJUTIS BRASLETS

7. LADIES BLOUSE KURTISSHAWL
BORDER

8. ABAYA ( ISLAMIC WEARS)
MODERN DRESSES

9. KASIDA OF KASHMIR
 Akbar who is responsible for introducing a
new type of shawl called ‘Doushala’
meaning twin shawls.
 The demand for shawls increased during the
Mughal times.
 By the 18th century they were being
exported to Europe.
 By the 19th century the shawl industry were
declined.

10.  Threads:- Fine silk, Cotton & Wool.
 Colors:- White, Green, Purple, Blue,
yellow, Black.
 Fabrics:-The base fabric used for
embroidery is Pashmina either in its natural
color of being to off-white or dyed in dark
color of Maroon, Navy blue, Dark green,
Peach and orange. Silk –pashmina or
pashmina-wool blends are also used.
 Stitches :- Chain, Darning, Stem and
sometimes a knot stitch called Doori.
 Motifs: Nature motif like Parrot, Lotus,
Lily, Saffron, Grapes, Cherries, Almonds,
Apple etc.

11. BED SHEET CARPETS

12. BELT
SUIT
SAREES
MATS
JACKET

13. PHULKARI OF PANJAB
 Phulkari is the traditional embroidery of
Punjab state.
 Phulkari is composed of two words ‘phul’
means floral and ‘Kari’ means work.
 This Embroidery is the symbol of
happiness, prosperity. At time of marriage
ceremony, it plays an important role.

14.  Fabrics :- Khaddar cloth (coarse, loose
weave cotton fabric).
 Fabric Colors:- Red & its shades, other
colors are brown, blue , black, white.
 Threads:-Dyed untwisted silk threads
called ‘pat’ are used. Sometimes black and
white cotton threads called ‘bandi’ are
used.
 Thread Colors:- Red, Orange, Green,
White, Golden Yellow, Blue.
 Stitches:- Darning stitch & Sometimes
Running, Herringbone, Buttonhole, Stem
and Chain stitch.

15. MOTIFS
 Geometrical Motifs.
 Animal:- Parrot, Pecock,
Camel etc.
Day to day life motives like :-
 Brinjal,
 Orange,
 Cauliflower,
 Pear,
 Karela,
 Surajmukhi,
 Chilli,
 Maize.
 No Religious subject
or Darbar scenes are
embroidered.

16. Type of shawls which a girl
used it in ‘fere’ time during
marriages.

17. BED COVERS
SAREES

18. UMBRELLA, FANS & CLUTCHES

19. KALAMKARI OF ANDGRA
PRADESH
 It refers to a method of painting natural dyes on
cotton or silk with pen or kalam.
 The name Kalamkari translates as kalam (pen)
& kari (work).
 It is a hand painting process. Vegetable dyes are
used and a fabric is painted with kalam.
 Temple were a major inspiration for this design
of Kalamkari.
 Motifs: Sun, Temple, God and goddess, Tree of
life, Elephant, Swan, Tiger, Deer, Scenes from
Ramayana, Mahabharata etc.

20. Tree of life

21. DANCE OF GANESHA (WALL
HANGING )

22. BEDSHEETS

23. MUDHUBANI OF BIHAR
 It is one of the best craft work, also known as
MITHILA PAINTING.
 The painting is usually done on walls during
festivals, religious events, family functions.
 Motifs :- Religious motifs:- Krishna, Ram, Shiva,
Lakshmi, & Saraswati, Natural objects (Sun ,
Moon, Tulsi) .
 Generally, no space is left empty. The gaps are
filled by paintings of flowers, animals, birds &
geometrical design.
 Colors:- Black, yellow, Blue, Red, Green, White,
Orange.

24. Craft Work
Tusser Sarees

25. BANDHANI OF RAJASTHAN
& GUJRAT
 The term Bandhani is derived from the
Sanskrit word Banda means ‘to tie’.
 Bandhani is also know as Bandhej , Tie
dye etc.
 Fabric:- Cotton or Silk.
 Designs:- Dots, Squares, Waves, Strips.
 Colors:- yellow, red , green , black etc.

26. SAREES SUITS

27. CHIKANKARI OF UTTAR
PRADESH
 Chikankari has been derived from a
Persian word ‘Chakin’ or ‘Chakeen’
which means creating delicate patterns on
a fabric.
 In India Chikankari is done in Lucknow,
Rampur, Varanasi, Allahabad and Delhi.
 Now, it is called Lucknow and also called
White work.

28.  Base Fabrics:- Traditionally very fine cotton
was used, generally white in color, other
fabrics like Organdy, Chiffon, Viscose,
Georgette, Polyester georgette, and net are also
used.
 Colors:- Pink, blue, peach, Pista-green.
 Black is also used as the background color these
days.

29. THREADS :-
 In old time WHITE UNTWISTED COTTON Or
Sometimes TWISTED SILK Thread.
 But now colored threads of cotton & silk are used.
STITCHES USED-
Button Hole, Herringbone, French Knot, Back Stitch,
Stem and Satin Stitch are mostly used.

30. KURTA & SUITS

31. CUSHION & PILLOW COVERS
TABLE COVER

32. CURTAINS & DRAPES
WEDDING SAREES

33. DESIGNER
LEHENGA WITH
CHOLI
SHARARAS
&
GHAGRA

34. RUMALS
BOOK COVERS

35. KASUTI OF KARNATAKA
 Kasuti is world famous embroidery
of Karnataka State.
 The world kasuti can be analyzed as
“kai” meaning hand and “suti”
meaning cotton thread.
 Other centers of production are
Bilaspur, Dharwar, Belgam and
Jamakandi districts.

36.  Colors :- Red, Orange.
 Threads:- Cotton, Anchor, Kohinoor.
 Stitches :- Vertical, Horizontal and
Diagonal.
 Kasuti is done always by counting the
thread.
 Motifs: Lotus, Rath, Palki with bride, Guj
Laxmi, Birds, Animals, and Tree of Tulsi.
 Technique :- The pattern to be
embroidered is first marked with charcoal
or pencil and then proper needles and
thread are selected.

37. TABLE COVERS

38. SARI & BLOUSE PATTERNS

39. CLUTCHES
CUSHION COVERS
SUITS

40. KANTHA OF BENGAL
 The traditional flok art of bengal is famous as
Kantha.
 The first time the kantha were commercially
manufactured in 1875 in PATNA.
 Kantha are produced at Huguli, Patna, Jessore,
Faridpur, Khulan & other parts of East &West
Bengal.
 Base Fabrics :- White cotton, Silk.
 Colors of Base Fabric :- White, Grey, Black.
 Stitches:- Running, Stem & Satin, Darning stitch.
 Threads:- White cotton, & Silk.
 Colors of Thread:- Black, Blue, Green, Yellow.

41. MOTIFS
 Lotus is the most widely used Kantha
motive.
 Sceneries ( Day to day life scenes from
Ramayana, Mahabharata).
 Scenes of gods like Bull, Peacock,
Temple, Swan, Lion, Elephant, Chariot.
 Ganesha and Saraswati.
 Trees, Human figure, , Animal (Cat),
Spiral, Birds (Palanquins), Fish, Nut,
Mirror comb, Umbrella, Boats, Hukka,
Jewelry etc.

42. TABLE COVERS
BED SHEETS

43. CARPETS SARI

44. SIX TYPES
Baluchari
Brocades
Ikat
Jamdani
Patola
Pochampally
TRADITIONAL
WOVEN

45. BALUCHARI OF WEST BENGAL
 It belongs to Murshidabad.
 Baluchar refers to the traditional weaving of silk
saris with floral or geometrical silk brocaded
designs on it.
 Silk saris known as ‘Baluchar Buttedar’
 Motifs:-Stylized trees, Woman smoking hookah,
Mango Man riding on horse, Swan. etc.
 Colors:-Dark red and Blue.
 Fabrics:-Silk.
SAREES

46. BROCADES OF UTTAR
PRADESH
 It belongs to Varanasi.
 In brocade warp and weft are used in
different colors and sometimes they
are same.
 This is done on handloom.
 Brocade is popular in their heavy
weight.

47.  Colors:- Bright yellow, Orange, Red, Green, Blue.
 Motifs:-Elephant, Pen, Parrot, Floral, Standing
couple, Mahabharata scenes, Horse & Rider,
Kalash etc.
 Threads:-Gold threads in older time and now days
Metallic threads.

48. IKAT OF ORISSA
 Its related with tie & die process.
 Normally warp or weft yarn is dyed with
tie & die process and other one is plain.
 Motifs:-Birds, Fish, Flowers, Animals,
Shank, Seep etc.
 Colors:- Red & Black.

49. JAMDADI OF BENGAL
In 19th century the Dacca muslins
with the woven-in pattern are
known as Jamdani.
Typical designs of flowers or
figures used by the Dacca weavers
are known as Jamdani pattern.

50. PATOLA OF
GUJRAT
 Patola is a Gujarati work done on loom.
 Other name is DOUBLE IKAT SARI.
 Patola is mostly in use as a wedding sari in
Gujrat.
 Motifs:- Jewel , Elephant, Dancing woman,
Bird and Pen.
 Colors:-Bright red, Orange, Green, Navy
blue, Violet, Off white.
 Weave:-Plain weave is used on this.

51. POCHAMPALLY OF
ANDHRA PRADESH
 The village known as Pochampally, which
is 30 miles away from Hyderabad city.
 It is done by tie & die process.
 Threads:- Golden and silver threads used.
 Colors:- Dark blue , Dark green , Maroon,
Violet , Magenta, and Peacock.
 Motifs:- Plain very wide border pallu ,
Geometrical.

52. SAREES
BED SHEETS

53. Payal Singhal’s designs (Combination of
bright shades with dull colors )

54. CHANDERI
 ‘Chanderi’ is a town in Ashoknagar District
in the state of Madhya Pradesh. Chanderi
weave is available in cotton as well as silk.
 The Chanderi fabrics are known for their
sheer texture, light weight and a glossy
transparency.
 Sarees, dupattas and stoles are available in
all possible colors with zari border in motifs
like lotus flower, trees, butis, leaves &
peacock.

55.  Renowned designers like Ashima-Leena &
Ritu Kumar have used Chanderi in their
works.

56. Chamba Rumal From Himachal
From the early 18th century to the 20th
chamba and its neighboring hill states,
such as kangra and basohli, formed rumal
production.
Material:- Fine khaddar, Silk.
Color: Blue, Green, Red, Yellow, Purple
and Crimson etc.

57. STITCHES
Double
darning
Stitch
Running
Stitch
Chain
Stitch
Herring
bone Stitch
MOTIFS
RADHA & KRISHNA FROM THE RASA LILA
SCENES OF KRISHNA’S LIFE
MYTHOLOGICAL EPISODES

58. Wall Paper Caps Room Partition
Cushion CoverBed SheetRumal