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re je c te d m u s t be re a lis tic o th e r w is e m u c h w illh e re je c te d
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s r e qu ir e m e n ts a n d the ir pr o p e r tie s in c lu din g le n gth,
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te m pe n i t 1
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Y a m p ro c e s s
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E n d b r e a ka ge s h Đu ıd be c o n tr o ı1e d by c o n tr o u in g w e ight pe r la p
lm g th s liv e r le n m r o v in g le n gth o r ya m lm g th W e a v in g
P r o c e s s s h o t ld c o n tr o lle d th e e x c e ss iv e b r e a k a ge o f w a r p a n d
w e ft ya m E P I d t s ign
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p r e s s u r e
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a n d s hr in ka ge Fo r m a x im u m e ffe c tiv e n e s s th e p r o c e ss co n tr o l
te s t s ho u ld b e c ıo s e to th e p ra c e ss in 吕m a c M n e ry Q u ic k a n s w e rs
a re re q u ir e d to p r e v e n t e x c e ss iv e a m o u n bs o f fa u ıty m a te ria l fm m
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4 P ro d u c t C o n tr o l
T he e n d p ro d u c t o fa p r o c e s s s ho u ld fu llfillthe d es ir e d qu a litySPin n in g pro c e ss + Y a m u n t T w is t
W e a v in g p ro c e s s } Fa bń c s E P ï P P I Sh rin ka ge
D y e in g p r o c C o lo tır m a tc hin B fa s h e ss p r o pe ń e s
Fin id bin g pĮ o c e 5 s > F in ish e d ía b r ic s : So ftn e ss
5 Pto c e s s D e v e lo p m e n h
P r o c e s s d e v e lo p m e n t m a y be c o n s id e r e d a s a fo rm o f a p pıie d
re s e a rc h T o a v o id u n n e c e s s a ry w a s te o f tim e m o n e y a n d
im p ro v e th e e n d p r o d u c t (q u a lity) m a y c ha n ge th e m a c h in e
d e s ign a n d s e td n g M a y a d d o r d isc ha r ge s o m e pro c es s
6 ￥r o d u đ d e v e lo p m e n h
T h e te s tin g o f the p r o d u c t h e lp s in th e c o n tin u a l s e a r c h fo r n e w
k n o tv le d ge T o p ro d u c e n e w ite m firs t s h o u ld d e v e lo p a i p į e
a s like d e s ir e d p r o d u c t It m a y c ha n ge a s d e m a n d c u s to n )e r
7 S p e c ific a tio n te s h
T o re pr o d u c e a p ro d u c t fir s t s ho u ld te s t th e s pe c ific a tio n tu th e
m a te r ia l
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1 In pĦx E s s c o n m l pr o pe r u tiliz a tio n o f r a w m a ttx ia le A n d
a u x ilia r ie s b u t in p ro d u c t c o n tr o ln o t Ħo pe r u tiliz a tio n
ı P ro c e s s c o n tr o l is p r o d u c e r o r m a n u fa ċ h ır e r o r ie ńte d B u t
pro d u c t c o n tr o lis c o n s u m e r o rie n te d
ı B e p r o c es s c o n tr o l w e c a n a n a lyz e the tim e s tu dy pr o c e s s
s tu d y c o s tin g a n d w a y o f c o s t m in im iz a tio n B u t pro d u c t
c o n tr o l d o n t giv e a n y in fo r m a tio n a bo u t p ro d u c tio n tim e
p r o c e s s lin e
Ł P r o c e s s c o n tro l is in d e p e n d e n t bu t p r o d u c t c o n tr o l is
d e p e n d e n t
5 B y p r o c e s s c o n tr o l it is p o s s ible to take n e c e s s a ry a c tio n fo r
c o r r e c tio n in pro d u c ń o n p r o c e ss b u t a fte r p r o d u c tio n it is
n o t p o s itiv e to re c o v e r y th e d e fe c te d th e d e fe c ķ o r fa u lts
In p u t fT o c e s s in g O u tp u t
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13 Q u a lity C o ? o l
{加a lity is a n a ttr ib リte pr o pe r ty s w ia lĺ巴 山 腦
q r T h e n a tu r e k in d o r c ha r a c te r o f a n y rn a te r ia l; he n c e th e
;d e grp e o r gr a d e o fe x c e ue n c e e tc po a s e s se d by a th in g
C o n tr o ıia to c b e d t o r v erdy a n d he n c e t o
S o lu a lity c o n tr o l is the c h e c k in g v a r ióc a tio n a n d o f
the de gre e o f e x c e lle n ce o fa n a th rlin ite «x p o p e r ty o fm a
A n o the r d e fin itio n o fqu *liıy a n d qu a lity c o n lz o ł
Q u a lity in the *ex tile tra d e s m igM p e r ha ps be 題 the
d e græ o f c o n fo rm ity b a e p e c ific a tio n the ióc a tio n itse ıf
ha v in g b ee n d ra w n u p w ith the o bje c t o f Ħo v id in g a n e
w H c h ha s s u ita bility fo r àn e n d u s e T e x t M a n u l)
Q u a lity c o n tr o l is a w ide s u bje c t a n d c o v e rs th o s e lic to rs
w hic h he lp to e n s u r e tha t thė p r o d u c t p r o du c e l is o f the de sine d
q u a lity (N e w be r y T e x t W K ly)
1 4 Q u a lity C o n ır o u e a by 3 A
Q u a lity c o n o l is governed by M g
M e rĻ
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M e tĽ
0 0 n e o f Th e ń ın c tio n s o f to p g e m e n t is the c
o rd iru tio n o f th e a c tiv itie s o f th e c o m p ie æ la bo u r ío rce
a d m in is tr a tiv e te c hn ic a ls u p e r v is io n a n d o pe r a tiv e
O A m e m be r o f th e te c h n ic a l s ta ff o fï a l th e he a d o f the
te s tin g la bo r a to ry Is n o m in a lly g iv m the jo b o f q u a lity
controller
O T he c o n tr o l o f qu a lity is in th e h e a d s o f W pe rB o n s
in c lu d in g th o se w ho d w o il r u n a n d m a in ta in
m a c h in e r v T he s e le c tio n a n d tr a in in g o f o p e ra tiv e s i* o t
i
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4
6.
a t impo r ta n c e a n d i8 a spec ia liz e d a r t (o r ac im c e ) in
itse lf
ın te s tin g la b o ra to r y gr e a t c a r e s ho u ld b e ta k e n to c ho o se
th e r igh t ty pe o f a s s io ta n b a n d to tr a in the m to be
s c r tıp u lo u s ıy h o n e s t in re c o rdin g te s t re s u lts a n d c o n
sc ie n tio u s in c a r ryin g o u t th e te s h
K n o w le d g e a bo u t d e m a n d o f m a r ke t s ta tis tic
d e v e lo p m m t o fte c h n ic a l
M a c hin a
B T he s e ıe c tio n o f th e ty pe s o f m a c h in e be s t s u ite d to the
p r o d u c tio n o f h igh q u a lity go o d s is n o t e a s y
￡a T h e m a c h in e w h ic h m a y be be s t fro m a te chn ic a l
v ie w p o in t m a y n o t be a n e c o n o m ic a l p r o p o s itio n w hic h
th e c la s s o f m a r k e t o r th t s ta te o ftr a d e is c o n s id e r e d
M M a c h in e s h o u ıd b e s e le c te d o n the b a s is o f s killn e s s o f
te c hn ic a l o r o p e r a to r
O M a y s e le c t m o r e r e fin e d a n d m x (a n d e x p n s iv e )
m a c h in e fo r h igh ly tr a in e d te c hn ic ia n s a n d W a to rs
w he r e a s m o r e e a s iıy maintaiJublee fo r
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sk ille d te c h n ic ia n s
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O T he p r o pe r s e le c tio n o f r a w m a be r ia l is a fa c to r in
s u c c e s s o r W o f th e pr o d u c t
0 m e n es u lķ o f te s ts fr o m M c h a de cis io n o n the c ho ic e o f
fibr e o r ya rr ıha s to b e rıu de
ł lJ Ļ }+ łė p k J
O ra w m a beria lsyo n th e b a s is o f telt res u lb i)is o n e
e x a m p le o fthe a p plic a tio n o f te x tile te s ūn g
M W n e n te s tin g ra w m a te r ia ls (ie Fibr e s fo r the sp in n e r
ya m s fo r th e w e a v e r fa b r ic fo r th e fin is he r) it is a s s u m e d
tha t the p r o w tie s te s te d a r e in fa c t r e la te d to the d e s ire d
c h a r a c te r istic s o f the s u l» e q a e n t Ħo d u c t
Q u a lity o f te s tin g M a rc
1 S ho u ıd ha v e kn o w le dge a bo u t th e d e m a n d o fm a rke t
2 Sh o u ld ha v e p r o pe r te c hn ic a l kn o w le d ge a n d s k iıln e s s to
r u n the te s tin g in s tn ım e n t
3 Sh o u ld ha v e id e a a bo u t s ta tis tic s fo r r e pre se n ta tio n o f
te s tiń g re s u lts
4 S h o u ld h a v e s k illn e s s a bo u t a p plic a tio n o fre su lt
5 S h o u ld ha v e id e a a b o u t d e v e ıo p m e n t o f te c hn ic a ı
Q u a lity c y c le (D e w in g c y c le )
7.
1 5 Tės ta In h b o ra tw
F o r F ib re
a ) id e n tific a tio n o ffibr e s
b) G ra d in g
c ) Ħbre ıe n gth
d ) Strengtha n d e lo n ga tio n ie Ben s ile pro pe n ie s
e ) Fin m e s s o r lin e fir d e n s ity
M a tu r ity
g ) T ra s h n e ps
F o r Y m
a ) Y a m c o u n t
b ) T w is t p e r u n it le n gth
c ) Str e n gth a n d ï4. ņga tiq n ie Te n s ile pr o pertie s
d ) A p pe a r a n c e
e ) E v e n n e s s a n d re gu la n ty
f) H a ir in e s s
g ) E tc
3 F o r F a b ń c
a ) S tr e n gth a n d e lo 曲 n Ĺe Be n s ile pr o w
b ) W id th
d ) N u m b e r o ie n ds A n d p i* pe r u n it lw
e ) Y a m c o m k
9 Fáb ń c w e ight pęr u n it IW
Designanďcoï uctio«ıef Me d ot h
h) A ir pe rm ea bility
T he r m a 】pro pe rtie s
S tiffn e ss ha n d le d r a pe
k) A b r a s io n
Pillin g
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o ) E tc
1 6 L iE t o f ty p ic a l q u a lity c o n tr o l e q n ip m e n ta fo r a in o d e m
c o tto n ep in n in g m ilL
P ro pe r q u a lity o f pro d u c ts c a n b e m a in ta in e d by c he c kin g the
m a te r ia l a t th e d iffe re n t s ta ge s a ta k e p a c tio n o r ecision
T o c he c k th e m a te ria l q u a lity th e follo*h e qu ip m e n ts a re
re qu ire d in Q c d e pa rtm e n t o f a m o de r n c o tto n s p in n in g m ill
1 6 1 F ibr e te s tin g e q u ip m e n t
1 H V I fo r Fin e n e s s c o lo tır tr a s h a n d ıe n gth
measuremet
2 A FIS fo r n e ps s e e d c o a t n e ps s iz e o f n ep s j ó bre ıe n M
s h o r t fibr e c o n te n t d ia /fin e n e s s im m a h ır e Fibr e c o n te n t
n o A n d s iz e o ft r n o A n d s o f dm t
3 Sjhir le y a n a lyz e r fo r tr a s h c o n te n t m e a s u r e m e n t
4 N e p c o u n te r fo r fibr e le n gtfĻ n e ps s o r t fbre %
m e a s tır m ie n t
. ibre i nınd l e s t ren g th tes t ( pr ess / o a n e t ・or
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7 R a pid c o n d itio n in g u n it
8 S u ga r o fs b ńc M e ss te s te r fo r te s tin g ho n ey de w
1 m h p ıliv e r a n d r o v in s te s tin g e q u ip m a 出
1 L a p Im gth c o u n te r
2 B a ıa n c e sc a le w a r p bļ o ck fo r te s tin g sliv e r a n d ro v in g
ha n k
3 N e p c o u n tin g b o a r d
4 A u to s o r te r fo r s liv e r c o tın t te s tin g
5 E v e n n e s s te s te r fo r te s tin g la p a n d s liv e r irre gu la r ity
U l%
1 7 A ıa e ıe m e n t o f fa br ic q u a llw
园四觋型四国p ro p e r dp ro p e r dp ro p e r d e *
O D e s ign
O C o lo r
A ttr a c b e n e le /A p p e a ra n c e
V is u a l Ea /clo am e s s
M H a in n e ss
Eď D e fe c ts
2 H a n d
a T r a n s pa re n c y
Eď S m o o thn e ss /R o u ghn e e s
a S o ŕm e s s /H a rdn e s s l S tiffn e ss
Ea W e rgh t
Đ T h ic kn e s s
Ea D im e n s ro n a lsta bility
a S tr e n Bth
a E x ben s ib ility
団 E la s tic ity
C o ıo u r fa s tn e s s
a D im e n s io n a ls ta bility
a Fo r n u m e r ic a l ın e m ıï e m e n t o f
p ro p e rtie s
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1 m Y m te e tin g e q u ip ın e n t
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2 A u to s o r te r fo r c o m t a n d C V % a n a ıy ze r
3 E v e n n e s s te s te r (U S TE R 3 ) y a m im pe rfe c tio n
s p e c tr o gr a m ha ir in e s s
4 IISTER d a s s im a t y a m fa u ıt c la s s ify
5 Y a m te n s io n m e te r
6 T w is t te e b r
7 S in gle ya m a n d ıe a y a m s tr e n gth te s te r
9.
D e sir e d p r o p e r tie s o r r a w m a te r ia ıs in w o v e n d ye h g m a c h in e
ŁR a - te ń a ıs
ļ u e s ir e d p r o p e r tie o
1 G r e y fa b ń c B Pr e e fro m s ta in s
Đ F re e fr o m m ild e w c o n ta m in a tio n
a Fr e e fro m fo re ign
m ? tţ e r s /im p l r ih e s
2 C ıo th fo r d yc inn g o
p r in tin g
M G o o d a b so r bin g
E3 F r e fr o m im pu r itie s
B E v e n w h ite n e s s
B S m o o th s u r fa c e
a F r e e fr o m m a n u fa c tu r in g d e fe c ts
3 D y e s
B S ta n d a r d s tre n gth o f r e qu ir e d
q u a h ty
a G fa s tn e s s p o p e r tie s
B A v a iıa b ility o f d a ta a n d s h a d e
c a r d
4 C h e m ic a ls a n d
a rb ciıia r ie a
B R e q u ir e d p u rity
s w ıte r
g R e q ir e d s tr m gth a n d
c o n c e n tr a b o n
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C o rn p a tib ility
a S o fü le s s fr e e fro m iro n a n d m e ta l
a a lts
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in gre d ie n ts
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1 T ita n 50 u n i e r s a l Ja m e s H H e a l s tr e n gth Se a m
s tr e n g th te s te r (E n gla n d) s lip p a ge Le a s tn n gth
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w p łw w w
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11 G yro w a s h 4 15
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Ja m e s H H e a l A m e ric a n w a s hin g
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a n d ? y c le a n in g bes ts
te s te r
Fo r m e a s u re m e n t a n d
18 T t a u to m a tic r e c o r d in &
T h e r m o h y p h (SM z e r ıa n d ) mp«ahıre a n d k H
c o n tin u o tłs ly
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llļ iËi
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G a r m e n ts qu a lity m e a n s th e ga rm e n b a re re as o m bly
sa tis fa c to ry tha t m e a n s n o p ro ble m w ith s w a ppe a ra n c e
p e r fo r m a n c e ŕilhn & a c c e p ta b le a c c e s s o r ie s
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1 B y te s tin g
2 B y in s pe c tio n
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In s pe c tio n m e a n s to te s t fa b r ic s bu ttu rĻ s e w in & z ip p e 】
m e a s u r e m e n t o f ga r m e n ķ a c c o r d in g to de iba ble a tın da r d o r
s pe c ific a tio n o fga r m e n ts
11.
f a ult (e t ttc D
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A s a m ple is a re la tiv e ly s m a ll fr a c tio n w hic h is se læ te d to
re p r e s e n t a po pu la tio n i e sa m ple Ĺs a s e le c te d se pa ra te u n it o r
p a r t w h ic h a c ts a s a r e p r e se n ta tiv e o f a In t c o n s ign m e n t o r
d e s ign A sa m o le is u s e d to illu s tr a te th e qu a İih e s a n d th e d e fe c ts
u t th e w h ( le in t
S tıp p o e a ba l? o fc o tio n wighing a b o u t 500 ib is to be te s te d a n d
th e tn fo r m a th n r e q u ir e d i5 th e s ta p le le n gth o f c o tto n ĥ b r e Bv
u s in e d s u ìt b e s a T p lin g m e th o d 20 m g c o tto n ħo r e Į s ta k in g to r
te s ti Ë
S o el ie i rg h t (ın m g) 500 × 453 6 × 11#
Sa rr ple w igh t (in m g ) 2i)
S a m p le e įg>: rj
B d t g ilï 6 8 0 0 0 10 11 34 0 0 0 0
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th e bAl
B u ı1c s a rr p ie : W h t 1 a la r g e n u m r n f c o tto n
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:e p r e s e n t n g tw o u lk
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d tífe r e T1t pi s o r th e b a le 5 o tha t a r e pr e se n ta tiv e s a m p le i3
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12.
? a wn T h e s e o f fib r es m a y be m ix e d tho r o u gN y a s to fo r m
a ho m o ge n o u s æ p r e s e n ta tiv e s a m ple S im ila rly p r e pa re
h o m o ge n e o u s s a m ple fr o m a llthe ba les c h o s e n a t ra n d o m T h e se
s a m p le m a v b e te s ted s e pa r a te ly if ba ıe to b ile v a r ia tio n is
r e q u i e d o th e ıw is e the c a n be po o le d to ge th e r to fo r m o n e
s a m p le r e pr e s e n ta tiv e o f th e w h o le ţru k T h toţ l qu a n tity o f ltte
s m p le p r p a r e d s h o u ld b e a u t 1 k 8
ıa b o r a to r y s a n ıp ıe
T he fin a l s a m p le o n w h ic h th e te s ts a r e to be c e d o u t is c a lle d
th e la bo r a to r y s a m pıe L a b o ra to r y s a m ple is d r a w n fr o m the
b a s ic s a m p le
L p ıin g T h e p r o c e s s by w hic h a s a m p le is c o lle c te d fro m a
la r ge n u m be r o f m a te r ia ls is c a lle d sa m p lin g
, o f tim e
o red uc e co s t .
o as s u r e go o d qu a ıity.
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T n a v o id the d e s tr u c tiv e n a tu r e o f m a n y te s ts
T o h ıc re a s e the q u a lity o f po pu la tio n o r r a w m a te ria ls
2 4 Fa c to r s w h ic h Bovern e a m p lin 吕m e th o ds
T h e sa m p łin g m e tho d s w hic h a re governed to a 】a r ge e x te n t by
fa c to rs s u c h a s fo lio w in &
h e for m oñ tbe'
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m o u n t of ma t er i al av a i lab ıe.
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y p e of tffiting ins t ru m e n t .
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D g tp p o la u r a r y re qu ire d
2 5 y p e s o f s a m p lin g m e th o d s
T h e r e a r e ba s ic a ıly tw o ty pe s o f s a m p lin g m e th o d s
1 T he R a n d o m sa m p lin g m e th o d s
2 T he B ia s e d s a m p lin g m e th o d s
1 T h e R a n do m s a m p lin s m e th o d
In R a n do m s a m p lin g m e th r d e v e r y in div id u a l in the
p o pu la tio n ha s a n d e q u a ıc h a n c e o f be in g in c lu d e d it
h e n u m b er i n t he s a m p l e m u s t b e s u f fici en d y ıar g e t o
in c lu d e a llth e v a r ia tio n s o f th e in d iv id u a ls in the p o p u la tim
A v e ry v a r ia ble m a te r ia l w ill r e a u ir e a ıa rge n u m b e r in o rd e r
to o b ta in tr u e r e p r e s e n ta tio n
L T h e B ia a ￠d s a m p lin g m e th o d
n bias e d sa m p ling me t ho d , he s e l ec t ion of an ind i vi du a l is
in flu e n c e d b y th e fa c to r s r a th e r th a n c h a n c e
e n c e a sam p le do e s no t tnd y rep re s e n t the
h e ca u s e of the bi as rıray be the ph ysi ca l ch ar ac t er i at ics of the
in d iv id u a l its po s itio n r e la tiv e o f the pe n o n d o in 吕 t
s a m plin g
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13.
h e long e r fibr e s hav e a gre a t er ch an c e of bei ng se l ec t ed fro m
a s tr a n d o fm a te r ia l tha n the s ho r t ńbr e s
D iffe r e n c e b e tw e e n R a n d o m e a ın p lin g & B ia a e d a a m p lin g
m e t h
R a n đo m s a m p lin g W d s a m p lin g
1 E v e r y in d iv id u a l in the 1 E v e r y in d iv id u a l in th e
p o p u la tio n h a s a n e qu a l p o p u la tio n ha s n o t a n
c ha n c e o f b e in g in c lu d e d e q u a l c ha n c e o f b e in g
it In c lu d e d it
2 6 S a m p lin g fo r d e te r m in in g fib r e pr o p e r tie ı
1 F ib re a a m p lin s ın e th o d
1 N g t h a n d e x te n t bia ıe d s a m ple
2 T he squ a r in g te c h n iqu e
3 T he c u t sq u M n g m e tho d
4 T he z o n in g te c h n iq u e
5 T he to n g s a m p lin g m e tho d
6 T h e c o r e m p lin g o d
1 T h e e q u a r ln g T e c h n iq u e
T h e s ilv e r is o pe n e d o u t in to a w e b a n d p la c e d o n a b la c k
v e lv e t p a d
T h e e n d o f th e s liv e r is th e n s q u a r e d o ff
A g ja s s pa te is p la c e d o v e r th e fib r e s to a c t a s a c o n tro la n d
a s m a ll fr in ge is le ft p r o je c tin g b e y o n d the e d ge o f th e
p la te
A u h e p r o tn ıd in g fib r e s a r e r e m o v e d a n d d is c a r de d
T h e p ıa te is m o v e d b a c k a liH le a n d a se c o n d fr in ge is
r e m o v e d
T h e p la te is m o v e d b a c k little a n d a s e c o n d fr in ge is
r e m o v e d
A p pa r e n tly th e e x te n t ba a s ha s b e e n a v id s in c e a llthe e n ds
o f ń br e s ha v e t e d in a giv e n v o lu m e
R e t th e o p e r a tin g tın tiıth e p o s itio n o th e pla te
e d ge w a s a t le a s t a d is m c e e {łu a l to th e le n gth o f 1o " s t
ĥ br e p re s e n t fr o m its o r igin a lp o s itio n
T h e c u t S q u u in g M e th ?
W ħe r e th e m a te r ia l is c m po se d o f fibres in p a ra lle l o r de r e g
v e r r o v in g a n d y m a m o d ifie d sq u a r in g te c hn iq u e m a y be
æ e d
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20
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T he Nis t fo r m s o f m a te ria la re fire t m tw is te d o pe n e d o u t
a little a n d la id pa ra lłe lo n a bla c k v ￠lv e t p a d
gl as s pl at e is pl ac e d ov e r the fibr es wi th its ıea d i ng ed ge
a t r igh t a n g læ the s tra n d ? is
T h e fr in ge is c u t a cT o ss w ith sc iss o rs a s n e a r to the gla ss
p la te a s p o s s ible a n d the fibre s w h o s ie c u t e n ds pr o je đ
a re r e m o v e d b fo r c e ps a n d d is c a rd e d
h e gļ ss pl at e is ten mo v d ac k ab ou t lmm aa a a a d ag in the
p r o e c in g fr in ge I r e m o v e d a n d disc a r d e d
T h is o e r tio o n is r e p e a te d
F in a lly a fte r a th ir d m o v e m e n t o f th e ga s p la te the fr in ge s
r e m o v e d a n d u s e d a s th e s a m ple
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r e c o m m e n d e d tha t le a d in g e d ge o f th e gıa s s p la te be p u t
a t a n a n g le o f a h o u t 60o to th e s ta n d ? is a n d tha t c u t
s h o u ld b e m a d e a t a d is ta n c e fr o m th e e n d gr e a te r tha n th e
le o f th e Įo n ge s t fibr e p r e se n t
j L
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/ th e b u ık o f th e m a te r ia l is n o t h o m o g e n e o u s a n u m be r o f s u b
s a m p le s m u s t b e ta k e n a t ra n d o m fr o m d iffe r e n t p la c e s in th e
b u lk T h e n u m be r o f s u b s a m p le s d e pe n d s u p o n th e d e gr æ o f
h
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T h e fo lıo w in g p r o c e d tu e fo r pre pa rin g a sa m ple fo r the s ta plin g
est by co m b so r t er .
aiıe p l ł
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the bu lk
S te p 2 D iv id e th is s a m ple in to fo tu q u a r te rs
S te p 3 T a ke s ix te e n s m a ll ıu ĺ ls a t ra n d o m fro m b tc h qu a rte r siz e
a D
22
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r o m the W a s a m p le o f a bo u t 2 o 4 i8 pre p ır e d by
a bo u t e ighy la rg e tu fts c h w 8 o la r a s p o es ible o v er
15.
S te p4 Ea c h tu Jt s ha ll b e ha lv e d fo u r tim e s d iac a r d e d alternatelv
w ith r igh t a n J le ft ha n d s a n d turning the tu ft thr o u gh a r ig h t
a n gle b e tw e e n s u c c e ss iv e he lv in g Six te m w is ps a re th u s
p r o d u c e d fr o m e a c h qu a r te r s a m p le
S te p 5 C o m b in e e a c h se t o f w is ps in to a tu ft
S te p 6 M ix e a c h tu ft in h ıft bv d o u blin g a n d d ra w in g be tw e e n the
fin ge r s
S te p 7 D iv id e e a c h h ıft in to pa r ts
S te p 8 0 b ta in fo u r n e w tu fts by c o m b in in g a pa r t ( f e a c h o f th e
fo r m e r h ıfts
S te p 9 M ix e a c h n m tu ft a g a in b y d o u b lĹn g a n d drahng
S te p 1 0 T a k e a q u a r te r fr o m e a c h h ıft to m a ke the fir a lsa m p le
T o n g s a m p ıin g m e th o d
In th e to n g s a m p lin g m e th o d a n e x te n t b ia s e d m !pl is
o b ta in e d ın e ffe ct th e g r ip o f a p a ir o f s u r gic a l t o s be c o m e s
e «łu iv a le n t to th e lin e A A in ĥ g u r e
h e m a t er ial sh o u l d be i n a m o r e o r l es s p ar a ılel or d er , n d
s o s ıiv e r s ro v in gs a n d ya m s c a n be tre a r d in this w a y
f ter op en i ng ou t the ma t er i al inh » a t hin flat sh ee t , n e p a i r
o f to n g s is u s e d to c la m p a t th r e e gro u ps o f fibre s a t r igh t
a n gıe s to the fibr e d ir e c tio n
h e c l am p ed fibres a r e t hen r e m o v e d fro m t he r e s t o f the
m a te r ia la n d c a re fu lly c o m be d o n o n e s id e o f the lo n gs
f ter co m b i nB a sæo n d pa i r ?f ton g s cl am p s the fibres on the
c o m be d s id e o f th e s a m p le c m e be in g ta k e n to e n s u re tha t the
Įim bs o f bo th p a ir s o f to n gs a re pa r a lle l to e a c h o the r a n d in
con lae
Ph(? ńIs l pa ir o ( to n ?s is the ri re m m e cl a n d th e liĦc o m i}e d
fr in ge c o m be d Iĥ e fu lly c o m be d s a m p le is th e n tr a n s fe r r p 1 io
a v e lv e t p a d r e a d y fo r fu r th e r te s tin g
F i￠ım ı& ıl i łłi* ır
2 62 Y u n s a m p lin g m e t h o
Y a m s a m p lin g
Y a m is a v a ila b le a s a m ım be r o f in d e p e n d e n t p« c ka ge ıa n d tht
Pr o ble m o f s a m p lin g is the s e le c tio n o f a a m a n n u «n b er o f n 】ù
24 25
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pa c kage s fr o m a la r ge n u m b er T h e popuıa rn a y b e fr a u e e o (
r in g b o bb iw s a skip o f m u le c o ps a in ın dıe o f ha n ka o r a
d e liv e ry o f ya m o n c o n e s A ra n d o m s a m pıe is pre fm e d a n d fo r
m ill e x pe rim e n ķ a n d re s ea rch gr e a t c a r e is take n bo m u re tha t
th is ty p e o ( s a ın p le is o b ta in e d
e t
1 T h e d r ıa t i o n o f y a m co m L
A t fir s t e ith e r 1 6 o r 8 p a c k a ge s o f a u n it s a m ple is ta k e n T h e
n m b e ・ o f s k e in s to be t k m h o m th e u n it s a m p le fo r the te s t
is s i x t T a k e th e s e s ke in s fr o m 16 s e pa ra te pa c ka ge s
F o r s p u N y a m s fr o m c o ps s p in n in g fra m e b o b b in s la ke
s ix te e n k a g e s T h e s ke in s s h o u ld be w o tın d fr o m the bo p
p o r tio n s o f e igh t o f th e ka g e s a n d fr o m a b o u t ha lf w a y
th r o u gh th e r e m a in in g e igh t
i th lar g e p a c k a g es s u c h as c o n e s a n d ch e e s e s , ak e e i ght
p a c ka ge s a n d w r a p tw o s ke in s fr o ril e a c h w he r e th e r e is d o n e
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c u t fr o m c o n 山tio n e d fa b r ic
a c h wa r F st ri p co n t ai ns at lea s t 50 md s .
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te tt? słs pe c im e n in e qu a lm ım b e rs fr o m te n pa cka ge s
・ a sh L u ļ d be rem o v e d frm the fre e en d as free en d is
tın h is tT J e a s ily
4 L e z s b e n gth o f s p u n y a m
e m. n t y ackages fro m ea c h iìf wh i ch a cL p ıet e İ ea ma y
t w ıth I w n
( t+ n h ・ a - a g æ ar e no t availaţ le a sm a l ler mu ļ trpĮ e ,f fou r
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3l ri um b e T 5 ca n be tak en &o m ea c h pa c k a g e oť a g rt up of
fo u r e g E ig h t p a c k a ges th r e e le a s {T o m e a c h o f fo u r pa c ka ge
a n d h o lm fro m a c h o fth e o the r fo u r p a c k a ge s
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5 w in n m a ta k e n k o m a n y ty p e o f y a m p a c ka g fr o m
a n u H M T ì ' e r ￡w a r r o r fr o m a w o v n o r k n itre d fa br ic
Ą r į ĵ s ľ íiiw ļ e c im r s s ha İl u k e n fo r e a c h te s t o n s tn gle
Ĵ m iłììd ť w o p ly l a m o f m d i u m to fLn c c o u n t b u t th e
i ï n r m a y in rtducedìo th,y fn r c o a r s e tw o p y a n d io f
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5 3 1ł中[L
u n g , ì ne ? the seıve d g es of t,n pt °. i lghtly
d r t p r o r tie s to th e bo dy o fth e c ıo th
i er ef or e f ab r i c w i n sa y
n o t be u s e t l
l r r ea s o n s f c»r t hes e di ffer en t wi llbe ap p re c i at ed wh en on e
w a tc h e s fa b r ic t e in g w o v e n th e e x tr a s tr a in s o n the ya m s a t
e ithe r s id e o f th e c lo th a r e u s u a lly n o tic e d a n d be m plin g w ill
a ls o ha v e its e ffe c ts
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u . o e r ・sa m Į ・es sh o u l d ce ıt ai n the sa m e ?c . s.
Ï ; tjcT W r d s a s m o f th ť c o m p o n e n t th r e a d s ĺ ss ible
s h u ]J be r Ľ p r e s e rıte d in ľ h e s a m p le s Fig (a )a n 山同
V h jn weft / a y s tn ps a r e s e le c :e d it is s u gge s te d tha t so m e
O f :he b ip s s ho lıìd in ld e fa b ric w o e n fro m tw o w e ft
ĺ a c a g s T h is is a u s e th e w e ft te n s io n a t the start o f a
frısh p ] c k a ge m a v be m u c h lo w e r tha n the te n s io n a t the e n d
o f the o ld p a c ka ge th e r e b y g iv in g ris e to a c ha n ge in the
fa br ic s tr u c tu r e a n d s o m e v a r ia tio n in s i n e øic t
k l w n a s th e c o p e n d e ffe c t
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r 3 lfistu pe Regain 8 Co ntent
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3 1 H u m id ity H u m id ity is the te rm u se d to d e s c ribe the
m o is tu r e ţ il n g in th e a tm o s phe r e
3 2 E ffe c t o í tlıım i id ity
In flu e n c e o f fıb r e p r o p e r tie s
U r d e r r ìaiu r a l c o n d itio n s th e a m m n t o f moistıre it Ë the
a tm o s p h e r e is c o n tin u o u s ly c h a n gin g T his r e s u lts in chane fo
the u n o u n t o f m o is tu re in th e m a te r ia l T h e r e s u lt o f th is ( ha n ge
w ill b e c h a n ge in th e p h y s ic a l p r o pe r tie s o í th e m a te r ia l su ch
a s d im e n s io n s te n s ile s tr e n gth e la s tic re c o v e r y e la s tic re s is m ce
r ig id it a n d s o o n
In flu e n c e o n p r o c e s s in g
T e x tiıe p r o c e s s in g is a ls o in flu e n c e d w ith th e c ha n ge in the
a m o u n t o Į m o is in ır e in th e a tm o s p h e r ic c n n d itio m Hl o s t u f the
te x tile m a n łJfa c in ır in g p r m e s s e s a re c o n d u c te d to a la r ge e x te n t in
a h u m id ifie d a tm o s p h e r e
3 3 DVanta<e U n d ť r }d c ä l h u ;n d Jty ( o n lį t i : e l 11 in ￠
adv,mļ agır e r æ tz e İ źn pr . i s l n 名
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2 M a te ń a ıs a r e m o r e e a s ll! Y Orkabl d u e h p ıta b illty
3 R e d u Ľ o d in a m c n ın t o f lu s t a n I 11v
4 A !ıo w o fo r the
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6 B re a ka ge a fĥ n ity r e d u c e d d u e to highe r ya m s tr e n g th
1 p e r c e n ta ge is d e fin e d a s r e la tiv e H u m id ity
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x T u u
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a b s o lu te o f the a ir to th a t o f a ir s a tu r a te d v th w a te r v a p o u r a t
thĽ s a m e te m p a n d pre s s u r e T h e ra tio be e x p re s s ? a pe rc e n ta ge
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3 5 A b s o lu te H m d ity A bs o lu te h u m id ity is th e w e igh t n f
w a te r preent in a u n i t v o lu m e o f m o is t a h ie Gra in s pe r c u b ic
fo o t o r gr a m s pe r c u b ic m e te r
W io is h u e R e ga in a n d M o is h ır e C o n te n h
M o is b r e re ga in is d e fin e d a s the w e igh t o f w a te r in a ıīıa te r ia l
ť x
p r e s s e d a s a pe rc e n ta ge o f th e o v e r ? y w e igh t o f th e m i
O R
T h e r a tio o f w a h r in a m a te r ia l to the o v e n d r y w e igh t o f th is
m a te r ia l is c a lle d m o is tu r e r e ga in It is d o rıa te d by R
3 l
30
r e te n tio n o f m o is tu r e a lr e a dy w ithin th e
b o d ily c o m fo r t fo r pe r so n n e ıin c o ld
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W e ig h t N w a te r in th is m a te r ia l W
M r
h ltì is tu re R e ga in R x 100
M o is tu r e C l n te n Ł {o is tu r e c o n te n t is U e fin e Li İ s tilt w ?ijht o f
w a te r ir i A r!1aţ cii c Ţ L l ñ 3 PecentageDţhetota w ìglit
T h ・ r a tiĢ f w a te r in a m ] te r ia l to ttu to ta l w e iglłt o łtht m a te r ła l
is c a lle J m u is h ır e c o n te n t It is d e n o te d b y C
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a tio n b e tw e e n M o is tu r e R e g a in a n d M o is tu r e C o n te n t
M o is tu r e T e g a in is d e ftn e d a s th e w e rgh t c ￡w a te 【 in a m a te r ia l a s
a percentae o f th e o v e n d r v w e ig h t
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W
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equ a tio n !3!a n d (4 )u x p r e s s the re la tio n b e tw e e n M o is tu r e re ga in
ì n d h lo rs tu r e c o n te n t
S iandarci M o is h ır e R e ga in a n d M o ia h ır e C o n te n h
M a te r ia l ł M R *
lı } M c ıy
C o ttţ n 8 5 7 34
33
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20.
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3 9 S ta n d a r d A tn ıo s p h e r e S ta n da r d a b n o s phe r e is d e fin e d a s an
a tm o s p h e r e N th e p r e v a ilin g ba ro m e tr ic presse th a re la tin
t u m id itv o f 65 % a n d T e m p e ra tu re o f20 C (681
F o r tr u p ic a l a n d S u b U o p ic a lc o u n tr ie s
S ta n d a r d te m p e ra tu re is 27 C /8 F
W o h
3 Sta n d a r d T e s tin g A tm o s p h e re A n a tm o s p h e r e fo r te s tin g iı
d e rh M a s the a tm o s p he re w iM a re la tiv e hu m id ity o f (65% į 2%)
a n đJ e m r a tu r e o f (20 士2 C )o r (68 士4 F)
In fr o p ic a l a n d s u b tr o p ic a lre gio n s the d iffic u ltie s o f a c h ie v in g'
tcım p e r a tu r e o f i bc àr e u n de rs to o d a n d s o a M g h e r s ta n dad
łnperature n u y be u s e d 27 C t T C (81 土旷F)
fT o b ıe m 0 1 T he w e ig h t o f a Ga m p]e o f c o tto n w a s fo u n d t0 Ţ
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sa m p le w a e r e du ce d to 100gra in s Fin d o u t th e m òis h ıre c o n tm t
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ħĄo iritıĮ r ť C o n le rīt
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t l00 L 只㈹ 4 76%
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L x l00 x l0 0 5%
D 100
g th e r e g a in o f te sa ile m a te r ia l
e c t th e m o is tu r e re ga in o f te x tile m a te r ia l a re
a s fo llo w s
1 T im e
2 T e m pe r a h ır e
3 R e la tiv e h u m id ity
4 Pr e v io u s his to r y o f th e m a te r ia l
5 T ype o f the m a te r ia l
1 T im e
S u ppo s e tw o s a m p le o f th e sa m e m a te r ia l w e re take n in to
a g iv e n a trrıo s ph e re o n e c o m ple te ly w e t a n d the o the r d ry
a n d a t in te r v a ls o f tim e the r e ga in v a lu e s o f e a c h w e re
d e te r m in e d B y p lo trin g th e r e g a in a g a in s t tim e fo r b o th
s a m ple s tw o c u rv e s w o u ld be o b ta in e d
T h e re ga in c ha n g e fa ir ly q u ic kıy a t firs t a n d the n m o re
s lo w ly a s e qu ilibr iu m c o t i o n a r e a ppro a c he d i￡
H ys te n esis e M ec ť T he r a te o f c o n d itio n in g de pe rłds o n
21.
se v er a l !a c to r s s u c h a s th e s iz e a n d fo r m o f the s a r n p le th e
m a *e r ia 】e e m a lc o n d itio n s e tc
F o r Ç xnple in r es t ing arn co u n t , he y am i n h an k i s
c o n d ib « n d ĺ o r a t łe a sit o n e h o u r in a tm o s phe re he fo r e
r e e lin g m c a s e o f the r pacge a t le a s t 3 h o u r s a r e
r e q 】ir e d
Equ ııibn u m
Equ iıibr iu m
Tłm e
F ig Reain tim e c u r e s a n d hsteresis
Z T e m p e r a h ır e
F o r p r a c ic a lp u r p o s E th e e lfe c t o t te m pe F a tu r e o n re ga in is
n o t s o ım p ņ r ta n t be c a u s e o f the e ffe c t o f te m pe ra tu r e p ¡a
a v t n ì l c Ĺ1n r e g a in
C c t 10 L w ill F iv e a c ha n ge in thc re
Fa ın u íc o tt n
ĺ a b( u Į ü 3 jb w h ĺc h ( A n be ign o r e d
tiv e H u m i àin
T h ( r Ľ ľ a n )i il te x h le m iıtť r ia l d e pe n J u po n the a m o u n t
u ĺ m 】b m e pť tļ nt in th c u rro u n jln F l ï r
T h e d am p n e s s o f the a t mo s ł
te r m s o f h u m id ity e ith e r
a bs o lu te h u m id ity o r re la tiv e
h u m id ity
Ií re la tiv e hu m id ity j r n o re
U1 a a n o ;ļ tų re w q ? ;n o í fih r e ;s
i l l ı11L1 lĽ a ıld w h e n k Ĺ la tiv c
h u m id ity is le s s th c M o Ĺ t u r e
R e ga in o f fib r p is lü w e r S o r e la tiv e h tu n id ilv is
p r o p o r tio n a l to th e M R o f te x tile m a te r i
T h a t m e a n s if R H is h iĺ :h it in d tc a te s tha t the re is ln o r e
w a te r v a po u r ir th e a h T o s p h e r e a n d hydro philic te x tile
m a te r ia l ge t th e c ha n c e tc a b s o r b m o r ė m o is tu r e fro m a ir .
h e l es s t he R . , he l es s w i Jl b e t he w a t er a b so r b i ng
fr o m th e a m o s p he r e b v te x b le go o d s
4 Pr e v io u s h is to r y o f th e m a te r ia l
r o m h ys t er e s i s e f ĺ ec t , t h a s b e e n s e e n t hat t hp- a m e
m a te r ia l w ill s h o w d iffe r e n t r e g eu n w hm the y a bs o r b
ın いis 山 田 fr o 田 w e t a n d d ワ c o n d i匕o n
r oc e s s r ng ca n al so ch a n g e the re g a i n
A fte r c h e m ic a l tr e a tm e n t l il a x a i d o the r im pu ıilie s
a r e re m ó v e d a n d the re ga in m a y c ha n g e
T h e
Ţh ys ic a l a n d c h e m ic a l h is to r y o f a m a te r ia l m u a t b ￠
ta k e n ın to c o rb id e ra tio n
F o r e x a m ple th e r e ga in o f s c o r e d w o o l is 16% « ad k r o iì
c o m M to p s 19%
m
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22.
p e of m a te ń a le
D iffe r e n t fibr e s ha v e diffe re n t m o is h ır e re ga in
o r e x a m p ıe, i ık has r eg ai n o f 11% an d ny lon h as o n l y
& T h e fo r m o f m a tm a l is a ls o im p o r ta n t in ca s e o f
r e ga in
o r e x a m p l e the r eg ai n tıt ya m ( wo o l en an d wo r st ed ) is
18 25 1b a n d tha t o ic lo th !w o o le n a n d w o rs te {l)is 16 %
40 r ı r ı Ï
lp5ó11 {J , h l ł1 r h (pt r c e n t )
W o l N y l C c tt
V v A c u
F r o m th e a b o v c u r e w e c a f s a th a t w o c l a n d v iqc o s e
r iry o n s h o w th e s im ila r lb o r p h o n c a rv e s w h iıe n ylo n
h ( w s a lo w a hs o q tio n p m p e r ņ
3 12 e c ts o f R e g a in o n fibe r p r o p e r tie s
m e n s io n /P h y s ic a 】pr o pe r tie s
B s o r p tio n o f rn o ıs tu re a lltcb th e J ım e n s io n o f tibe is in
ì a r io u s w a y s
SWelg is m o s tly tr a n s v e rs a ı(A r e a B e uiħg) be c a 1ıs e
w a te r m o le c u le s n e tr a te b e tw e m the m o re o r le s s
pa ra lle lm o le c u la r c ha in s a n d e x e r t th e ir fo rc es o u tw a r ds
T h e le n gth o f t h e in ￡re a s e s d u e to a bs o rbe d m o is M re
b u t in c a s e o f fa b r ic s m o is h ır e a bs o rbin g c a u s e s fa br ic
Sw e lìirıg diincnsion þry d ;n ï e n sio n
Sw łlin g %
D ry u iJn e n s io n
J ï 0 ðlį
D im e n s io n c ha n ge s o f s o m e fib e r s d u e to a b s o rptio n o f m o is tu r e
is ta b u la te d be lıo w
F ib r e T r a n s v e r s e o f a r e a s w e ılin g A x ia l o r
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V is c o s e 60
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A d v a n ta ge o f s w e llin g is to p r o d u c e a w a te r p ro o f fa br ic
Sw e llin g p la y a gr e a t r o le to m a k e m o re w e a v e w h ic h p re v e n ts
th e pe n e tr a tio n o f w a te r
2 M e c h a n ic a l pr o p e ń ie s
T h e w a te r m t lt m ıe s in th e fibe r re d u c e s iæ o f
fq c e s the m o le c u ļa r c ha in s is a iw e lt o ĺ v hic b
fibr e s be co m e w e a k
38
23.
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in c r e a se d by s w e llin g
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5 l了e n gth is r e d u c e tl b u t
th c s tr e s s s tr a in c u r e
a s s u m e s a d iffe r e n t
fo r m
t he r m e c h a n i ca l p r o p e r t ies a f fec e d b v r e g a Ĺ n i nc l ud e
extensibili c r e a s e r e c o v e r y Ħe x ibiİity e tc
3 E le c tr ic a l p r o p e r tie s
R af ïec b the el ec t ri ca l re s i st an c e of the hb r e gr e a t lv
t h e r a i] ? c f th Ł r e s is ta n c e a t ı] w r e ga ir ċ n d a h r h r u t$a in
c a n o t th ž r d e r o f h u n d r e d s f tho u s a n d s tu d j ť
h dt ' w h v, he de s i gn of 】Tıni st ur c r ne t m Js b a s e t l nn t hĽ
m e a s u r e m e n t u f r ť s ls ta n c e ų a lu t s n f ttxtiles
e g aın t ne s n o t a l low t or m i ng st at ic t y" :
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fibr e S u r i a
C )Łh c t e ļK tr c a ] r r o p e r tie s tected b th e a m o u n t c t
m o Ls tu r t ın th e m a te r ia l a r e th e d ie le c tr ic c ha r a c tt r is lic
a n a th e s u s c e p b b ilitv o fs ta tic tn u b le s
4 T h e r m a l pr o p e r tie s
W h m m o i sh ıre i s a b ? O r b y t ex t iıe m a t er ial , ea t i s
ge n e r a tĦ j T h is h e a t is kn o w n 5 he a t o f a bs o rptio n
n e n t he d r y m p l e i s c ompıely. t he h b t
e v o lv e d e x pre ss e d in c a lo r ie s p e r gra m o f ? y m a ber ia l is
te r m e d a s h e a t o f w e ttin g
h e r m a l ef fec t s pıay vi tal ro l e in the fieıd of cl ot hing .
f a w o l len j ac k et of 1 kg we i ght is pas s e d fro m 18' an d
45 % R H to a n a tm o s p h e r e o f 5 C a n d 95% R H 4 t w ill
p r o d u c e 100 000 c a lo r ie s o f h e a t
e c t in v o ic e W e igh t T h e w e igh t o bta m e d a fte r a d tİ in g
Sdard m o is tu r e r e g a in o f th e m a te r ia l w ith th e o v e T1 dr y
w e igh t is c a lle !
C o r re c t ın v o ic e W e igh t G r c o n d itio n e d w e igh t
T ha t is
C I W O v e n d r y w e ig h t + s ta n d a r d m o is tu r e r e g a
L e t C th e o v e n d n w t o f th e c o n s iĦ u n e n t
t h e o r ıgis a l w t o f th c sa m p le
d th Ľ o v e n d r y w l o f th e c o n s ign m e n
W th e w t o f th c c o n s ig n m e n t a t th e tim e o fs iu n p ìĹn g
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Fo r s a m ple s d r ie d o u t w ith o u t c le a n in &
c o rr e c t In v o ic e w e ig h t c
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a Ľ n s igru n e n t is d e liv e re d a n d w e igh e d a s am ple i8 ta ke n a n A
m tu r a l gr e a s e w a ĺa tty m a tte r a dde d o il ? e s s in g e tc
M th Ľ im pn r ban Ĺ e to c ]w Įs v Ť p m u c h in b 1 ıB
P c b ıe m J2 C IW o f m l3 0 Ĺ H o n /N y ],n o v e n d r y w ť igh t o f
c o n s ign m e n t is 1 50 gr a m s
A 11c w m c e O R s ta n da r d r e ga in o fble n d X
TŁıx 8 5 10 × 4
十 7 36 も
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3 15 C o n d itio n e d C o u n t
T hť c o u n t d e te r m in e d o n the b a s is o f C TW is c a Ðe d c o n d ib o n e d
c u n t
L e n gth lf H a n k
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P r o b le m 0 3 T he c o u r t J f th e ya m w a s fo u r d to be 42s
a n d iť the
tf o ls tu r e d c t °a t i o n te s t r e v e a ls th e re ga m o f the a m a t the
tim e o t te s h n g is 4 % Fin d o u t the c o u f t o f the y am c o rre c te d :o a
s ta n d a r d r e ga ir c f7 %
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n *iilŁt p a y
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u t the c o u n t o fthe v a m c o to a s tın da r d regım o f7 5 %
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S tr e n Ń o f th e ıe a m l h
A c h ıa l C o u n t N 32s
iłť ga in a t tłe o f te s tin & R a 10 %
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æ ta blis he d the m se lv e s to d iffe r e n t e x te n ts in the a p par e 】a n d
h c u s e ho ld s fie lds e v e n o u g h n e w e r a n d n e w e r fibr e s a r e
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be c o m e s e a s y bec a u ó e o f th e d iv e rs e p hys ic a l a n d c he m ic a l
p r o p e r tie s a n a the a p p e a r a n c e o f fibr e s
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s w e llin g a n d m ic r o sc o p ic te s t a r e a v a iıa b le a n d o n e o r m o n e o f
th e m c a n b e u s e d to id e n tify m o s t o f th e c o a u n o n te x tile s fibr e s
a v a ila ble to d a y
B ıım m in g te s h
T his is the s im ple s t te s t In this be s t a btın d le o f fibr e s a r e ign ite d
a t o n e m d a n d the o d o u r (s m e ll) c o lo r a n d s ha pe o f the a s h o r
52
be a c
53
30.
W o ol a n d S ilk A s tr o n g So d itım h yd r o x id e (N a O H ) eo łu tio n
d e s tr o y a m fibr e s s u c h a s w o o l a n d s ilk H o w e v e r w he n
tr e a te d w ith c o ld c o n c e n tr a te d m in e r a l a c id s u c h a s h yd r o c hlq r ic
a c id (H C I) fo r 1 5 m in s iık
qs s o lv e b u t w o o ld o e s n o t
V e g e ta b le fib r w
C o tto n C o tto n is d is s o lv e d in M g h c o n c e n tra te d s o lu tio n (70% )
o fS u lp h u r ic a c id 28 04)b u t in s o lu b ıe in a lk a li s o lu tio n N a O H
J U D is s o lv e d b y h o t c o n c e n tr a te d s o lu ń o n a c id s bu t in s o lu b le
in a lk a li s o lu tio n
R a y o n s
T h e A c e ta te R a y o n d iss o lv e s in a 50% s o lu tio n o f Su lphu ric a c id
b u t V is c o s e is n o t a ffe c te d A ll R a y o n s w ill d is s o lv e s in a 60 %
s o lu tio n o f S u lp h u r ic a c id o r a c o n c e n tr a te d s o lu tio n o f
H yd r o c h lo r ic a c id
A c e ta te F ıb r e s A c e la te fibr e s w ill d is s o lv e in 80% s o lu tio n o f
a c e to n e b u t n ylo n d o e s n o t
N y ıo n N y lo n is d Ĺs s o lv e d in 85 % fo r m ic a c id o r in 90 % ph e n o t
a r m e ta c r e s o l o r 20% H ? o r 70 % S u lp h u r ic a c id (H ßOł)
P o lye s te r P o lye ó te r is d is so lv e d in h o t m e Ta d x e so ]
P o ly a m ıo n itrile P o lya c ry lo n iM le is d is s o lv e d in D im e th yl
fo r m a m id e
M ic r o s c o p ic a l T e ıL
Id e n tific a tio iıby m icr s s o o pe
d is tin g u is h th e fibr e s
T h e L o n g
a re s h o w n in ta ble
F ibr e
1 C o tto n
/ ,
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:S p i a lly tw is te d ï
(c o n v o fu titın s )
tu be w ith a r o u gh
s u r fa c e
2 M e r c e r iz e d A s m o o th s tır fa c e R o tın d to o v a l w ith n o o r
C o M D n a lm o s t c y lin ? i a l le s s lu m e n
a n d s o m e tiır te s
s ho w a fıw
c o n v o lu tio n s
3 W o o l Irr e g u la r a n d C hï a l to c ir c u la r w illi
r u ghly v a ria tio n in dia m e te r T h e
c y lin d r ic a l a n d in n e r m o s t y e r m e d u lla
m u lti c e llu la r in is c o n c e n tr ic a n d v a r y in
s tr u c h ır e T he s iz e
o u te r la ye r
c o n s is ķ o f s c a 】e s
P o in tin g h w a rd s
th e tip the fib re s
4 M u ]be ry In e gu la r e llip tic a ı T ria n g u ıa r w ith r o u n d e d
s ilk (R a w ) r ibbo n s
c o m e r s in p a ir s c e m m bed
So m e tim e s by s ilk W
s e p a ra te
57
itu d in a l a n d C r o s o n a l v ie w s of s o m e o f th e fib r e s
31.
so m etim e s
tw is te d w ith
ıo n 8 itu d iru l
s tria tio n s
L .i - a c e T ria n gu la r in sha p e
6 V is c o s e u n ifo n ı ı į m a in t i o n a l
里贝里■团团团■
ì t h a cc o rd in g to th e
a c t u r i n g pr o c e ss ıt
ha sha sha sha s a se 】T a te d
'
pe ripe ripe ripe ripppp ııe r yhııe r yhhııe r yhıe r y
7 A c e ta te D is tin đ Sha pe d like d o v e r le a f
ıe n g th w is e
s tr ia tio n s 2 3 in
n u m b e r n o c r o s s
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C ha pte r s
5 1 Im p o r ta n c e o f F ibr e le n gth
Fibre le n g th irtflu e n c es u p o n
Sp in n in g lim it
Y a m s tr e n gth
Y a m e v e n n e s s
H a n d Je o f the pr o d u c t
L u s te r o f th e pro d u c t
Y a m ha ir in e s s
P t o d u điv ity
B lo w r o o m
T h e n u m be r o fcleaningp o in t
Se trin g be tw e e n be a te r a n d the gr id ba r
Se trin g be tw e e n fe e d r o lle r a n d g rid ba r
C a rd in g
La r g e r c o tto n w ith o pe n se ttin g In o u e n c e lo w e r
pe r fo r m a n c e a n d s h o c o tto ĥ w ith c lo s e se ttin g
in flu e n c e fu gh p e r f o
le n gtti o f fibre
u po n the
D ra w fr a m e S im ple x * R in g fr a m e ľ
h e d i st an c e b eM r ee n ・i e r iips o f the- ftin'ou e r ìs ・
m o r e 山a n the e s tim a tė 々the Ħbıe le r电击 th en lo to fĦE1Èe s
w ill be c o m e flo a tin g
59
13 a
」
Fibre LengthMe asu rem eiıt
32.
i le &s la iıc e b e tw e e h m e ï u ps o 1 ttn o r a m n g ro lle r is le ss
th a n th e e s tim a be o t tłie óbrreaènglhthe n ļo t o f fibre s w ill
b e c a u gh t b o th d e liv e ry a n d fæ d ro lle r r e s u ltin g d a m e o f
th e fib n zs a n d h en c e h a t a s in g w a s te
Fib r e ım g th m e a s u re u n it
S ta p le le n g th (if c h)
Ĥ Eİ fe c liv e ìe n ņ h (in c h )
ß 2 5 % s p a n lm N (in c h)
50 % s p a n ıe n gth (in c h )
U P P é r ha ıfle n gth (m m )
U H M L U p pe r ha lf m e a n le n gth (n u n Ji
5 2 D e fin itio ıu o f F ibr e ıe n g th P a r a m e tm
ta p ie ıe n h A qu m tity e s tim a te d by p e r s o n a l ju d gm e n t by
w h ic h a s a m p le o f fibr o u s ra w m iıte ria ıis c ha r a c te r iz e d a s
r e ga r ds its te chn ic a ıly m o s t im po r ıa n t ń b re le n M
In s h o ń th e a v e r a ge le n gth o f a spble fib re s is c a lle d s ta ple
l e n ie Th e le n gth o fa typic a l po r tio n o fa sa in pıe o f fibre s
S ba p le le n gth 0 9 1×Ef【e c tiv e le n gth (A m e rica n u pla n d )
S ta p le ıe n gth E ffe điv e le n gth (E gyptia n c o tto n )
e l It ls łe rın de fin e d a s the 1e n gth o f tıı
v
m a in in ū k o f th e ım g e fibre s Jt b o b ta in ed by a geoca
c o n s tr u c tio n o n the c o m b s o rte r d i a
60
3 M e a n t A v e ra ge le n gtk In c o m b s o r te r dia gr a m the n ım o f
th e ba s e lin e re a din g div ide d by b a s e lin e lm gtı, giv e s th e m e a n
le n g th in
4 M o da l le n gth It is the le n g th o f th e gr o u p o f fibr e s w h e r e th e
m o s t n u m be r o f fibr es ha v e e qu a lle n gth
j , a n le n g th It is the te rm by w h ic h w e c a n de te rm in e the
p e rc e n ta ge o f fibe rs lm gth in c a s e o f c o tto rĻ w o o l e tc tha t is
m o r e re a lis tic tha n the s o r te r te c h n iq u e
Sp a n ! e n is d e fin e d a s the d is ta n c e e x w d e d by a s p e c ilic % o ffib re s
e x te n din g fro m a r a n d o m c a t h p o in t
2 5% s p a n le n g th 2 5% s pa n le n g th ıs d e fin e d a s th e d is ła n c e o f
2 5 % o f the fib r e s e x te n de d fr o m th e c la m p w he r e th e y a r e c a u gh t
a t r a n do m a lo n g the ir len gth T h is le n gth is m ım e ric a lly m a r er to
th e s ta p le le n gth a s de te rm in e d by th e A m e r ic a n d a s se r s Th e
c ıa s s ific a tio n o fc o tto n ba se d o n s p a n le n g th is a s follow
23% s p a n le n 8th
33 0 a n d a bo v e
29 5 to 32 5
25 0 to 2 9 0
20 5 bo 245
20 0 a n d be lo w
S p a n le n gth r a tin g
C la ss
Ex tr a lo n g s ta ple
Lo n g s ta p le
M e diu m s h ple
Sho rt s ta ple A
Sha rt s ta p le B
6 ]
33.
50 % ıpa n ıe n gılc 50 % s pa n ıe n gth i8 d e fin e d a s th e d is ta n ce o
50 % o f th e fıbre e x te n d e d fro m the cıa m p w he re ihe y A re
ca u
a t r a n d o m a lo n g the ir le n g th
u n ifo rm ity ra tio u R
引為 fp a n l e × 1oo%
2 5% fp a n ıt n głh
ın it io ıc la m p
P O S itĮ R
:ľ ŲŢg ,
D is ta n c e D 2 5 % s p a n le in g th
A s s tım e Fib e r s a r e br o u gh t b y a c la m p a fte r re m o v in g a ll ńbe
fr o m th e r ig ht s id e o f th e c ıa m p L e t 1200 ĥ be r s a r e c a u g h t b y tl
c la m p
it the c la m p is d is pla c e d to the r igh t sid e a t a d is ta n c e o f I
L e t n o w 300 f i i e 2 5% o f 1200 fibe is c a u ght by th e e ta n t
a fte r d is pıa c in g the c ıa m p to th e d is ta n c e o f D s o it is s a id spł
le n gth 2 5%
U n ifo r m ity r a tio U lıifo n n ity r a tio is de fin e d a s U 1e ra tio
50 % s pa n le h to th e 2 5 % s pa n le n gth e x p r e s s e d a s
f . N ee d le s to a ro w D ĺ t叩 n e e d le s i,
K
63
34.
Sampıe is cu e fu ıly dra w n a n d dölıble d s e v e ra l tim e s u n til
ib re s a r e s w te n e d a n d pa r a lle liz e d
m e th o d o f s o r tin g a s fo llo w
P la c in g th e s a m ple o n the c o m T he so rb r s ho u ld be
Pla c e d w ith th e ba c k to w a r d s th e o pe ra to r a n d to p c o m bs
S h o u ld be lifte d T he pre pa re d s a m p le s hòu ld be s lig h tly
tw is te d n d pla c e d in Uhe lo w e r c o m b a t th e right han d
s id e o f Lh c s ÐT Łı w į a a S T ï lu ħ p r o tr u d in g
R e m o v a l o f to o s e f i b T h e lo o s e fibre s a re re m o v e d
fr o m th e p r o je c tin g e n d tın tila s tr a ig h t e d ge is fo rm e d a s
A th e lo o s e fibr e s pu lle d o u t tte in g p la c e d be tw e e n tw o
gla s s s ıid e s
C o m b in g a n d tr a n s fe r rin g to th e le ft ha n d s id e o f th e
s o r te r t h e ttıft is pu lle d fr o m th e s a m ple a n d c o m be d
s e v e r a l tim e s a n d tr a n sfe r r e d to th e le ftd s id e o f th e
so r te r a n d s tr a igh t a t ń gh t a n gle s o f the c o m b T his tu ft
s h a ll n o w b e p r e s ó e d in to the c o m bs by m e a n s o f th e
d e p r e s so r
R e p e a tin g the p r o c The pr o c e s s is re pe a te d u n tila ll the
s a m p le s o f Jin t a re tra n s fe rr e d to the le ft ha n d s ide o f the
TUrning ro u n d the s m te r m e s o r te r is n o w turned r o u n d
s o tha t the b o n t fa c e s the o pe r a to r a n d lo n ge * fib r e s
p r o je c ts to w a r ds to the o pe r a to r
L o w e r in g the to p c o m b T he to p c o m b s s ha ll be lo w e r e d
a n d fitte d in the ra c k s o ? to grip th e tu ft a n d p r e v e n t
u n c o n tro ļle d s ıip p in g o ffibr e s
U D r o p p in g the lo w e r c o m b m lo w e r c o m bs s ha ll b e
d ro p p e d s u c ce ss iv e ly u n til the tips o f lo n ge st b br e s iu e
s e e n
A r r a n g in g the ĥ br e s o n th e v e lv e t p a d T he fib r e s s h a lıb e
p u lle d o u t in h ıfts o f s u c c e s s iv e ly s h o r te r le n gth by m e a n s
o f th e grip The ń br e s s ha ll be c o m be d s tr a ighte n e d a n d
ļa id d o w n o n the v e lv e t p a d w ith th e s tr a ight e d ge a g a in s t
th e m a r ke d lin e a s fig
州トド V e lv e t P a d
B a s e Lin e
n g: Fibre a m n g in g o n v e lv e t pa d
A n a ly s is o f c o m b so rte n A ftrer th e s im p le fibr e a iE a r r a n g e d
fo rm lo n g e r to so rt= o n e s
a tr a n s p a r e n t pa per Ķ pla c e d o n v e lv e t pa d a n d a lin e d ia gr a m o f
the fibre a rr a n ge is dra w n o n pa pe r T he c o m b so rte r dia gra m is
s o r te r
64
35.
C
K L
M 尸R
Q is th e m id p o in t o fO A ie O Q
'
0 4
F r o m Q d r a w Q p pa r a lle lto O B to c u t a t p
D r o p th e p e r p e n d ic u la r p ?
M a r k o ff O K e q u a l to
}ío p a n d e r e c t the
P e n d ic u la r K K
S is th e m id p o in t o f K K
F r o m S d r a w S R p a r a lle l to O B to c u t the c u r v a tu r e R
D r o p th e p e rp e n d ic u la r R R
M a r k o ff O L e q u a lto O R
E r e c t th e p e r p e n d ic u la r じし
E ffe c tiv e lm M E ffe c tiv e le n g th is the le n gth o f the
m a in b u lk o flo n ge r fibre
: E ffe c tiv e le n gth U
A v r a ge ]e n gth/ M e a n le n g th
Ár e a
q B
O B
a f th e ba s e lin e r e a d in g d iv id e d by ba se lin e le n g th
iv) M o da lle w L L
v ) P e rc e n ta ge o f s ho r t fibr e : T h is pe rc e n ta g e o f fibre le s s
tha n ha lfthe e ffe c tiv e le n gth
% Sho r ￠jibr e x 00%
v i) D is pe rs io n In fi L I js u pp E R qu a r tile a n d M h ï is !he
io w e r q u a j{íle w h aıe 0 0 ? O R
T h e d iffe r e n c e be tw e e n ıL a n d M M N L is th e in te r q u a r tile
r a n ge
N L
D is p e rs io n x 10 0%
L Z
v ii) Sta p le Le n gth 0 9 1 L L (A m e r ic a n U p la n d c o tto n )
L L (E gygtia n c o tto n )
3 3 3 F ib r o gr a p h
h o t oe l ec t ri c ce l ls ar e us e d in thi s Am e r i ca ins t ru m e n t for
m e a s u r in g th e le n gth c ha ra c te r is tic s o f c o tto n
A fr in ge o f c o tto n is pr e p a r e d b y ta k in g a b o u t 1 o z o f
c o tio n a n d c o m bin g it b y m e a n s o f tw o ha n d c o m bs
h e p rep ar e d sa m p le i s i n a s t ra i ghten e d co n d i tion w i th
th e fib r e s d iv id e d be m æ rľ th e tw o c o m b s th o s e lo n ge r
tha n 1 in c h m e c a u gh t in the te e th in a r a n d o m po sitio n
a lo n g th e ir le n gth
2
尺刀
口刀
4
M ? im u m L e n gth O A
66 67
36.
h e fibrefri ng es ar e pl ac e d , n the measting un i i in su c h
a w a y th a t the y ıie o v e r a lo n g n a iT o w s lo t b e h in d w hic h
a re m o u n te d the phoectric c e lls
* A ligh t s o u r c e i l l u t e s the fr in ge s a n d th e a m o r山竹 o f
light pe n e tr北 n g thr o u gh the fr in ge s is m e a s u re d
e le c tr o n ic a lly
A t
释ıe s ta r t o f th e m e a s u r e m e n t the fr in ge s a re s c a n n e d
a c r o s s th e d e n s e s t re gio n ie N ea r the c o m b te e th a n il the
ligh t w h ic h pe n e tr a te s w iıl be a m in im u m
A s th e s a m ple is tr a v e r s e d to w a r d s the fib r e e n d s m o r e
a n d m o r e li t w illfa llo n to the ph o to e le c tr ic c e lls
T h e n e w S e r v o F ibr o gra p h a u to m a tic a lly r e c o rd s th e c ha n
ge in
th e a m o u n t o f lig h t re a c h in g th e c e lls n o t in te rm s o f in te n s ity o f
ilh ım in a tio n b u t ? a s pe c ia l fo r m o l fr e qu e n cy d is tr ib u tio n T h is
c u r v e is tr a c e d o u t o n a c a r d w h ic h is the n re m o v e d fr o m th e
in s tn ım e n t a n d a n a lyşe d
ïn fig u re s h o w s the typ e n f c u r v e pro d u ce d a n d the w a y in
w h ic h jt is u s e d to pr o v ide the r e q u ire d in fo rm a tio īt Le t X b e a
p o in t o n ttie c u r v e
in c h
fr a m th e hu riz o n ta l? is
C o n s tr u c t the ta n ge n t to the (u r v e to c u t the ho riz o n ta l a t N a n d
th e v e rtic a l a x is a t A O A is the n the a v e ra ge le n gth o f fibre s
lo n
ge r tha n 1 h h s ta n c e s a lo n g O N re pre s e n t ttıe fr E q u e n c
p e rc e n ta ge o ffibr e s lo n ge r tha n 1 in c h
F r o m S th e 50 % m a r k c o n s tr u c t the ta n ge n t S T to c u t th e
h o r iz o n ta l a x is a t T O T is th e n th e u p pe r ha ıf m m n 】e n g lll o t
libe e r lo n g ę r ih a n ıth M hc se 3 o n a w e igh t d is tr ib u tio n T h e
r a tio o f O A
o Ť
× 100 p e r c e n t g iv e s th e le n g th u n ifo r m ity r a tio o f th e
fibr e s T h e u p p e r h a lf m e a n le n g th a p p r o x im a te s to the s ta p le
le n g th o b ta in e d b y the c o tto n c la s s e r s
X
O
100 50 0
Re b tiv e n u
w r o t fibr e (pe r c e nit»
W ı A ha błił qrlh F ibrı￠rq Þ& a m ı
4
ııı
69
37.
c hıp ter 6 Fibre Maturity
o tho n )is a tibl e characistic w hic h e x p r e ssese d e gr e e o f thic k e n in g o f th e fibr e w n o the r w o rdsit is ttıe m e a s u r e o f p r im a r y a n d se c o n d a r y w a ll thic lc n e ss It isııs u a lly e s tirr ta te d by s e v e r a l in d ir e c t te s ts w h ich a r e o fte n u se dto ó n d o u t th e
p r o p o r tio n o f fibr e s c o n ta in in g a m a tu rity g r e a te rth a n s o m e s e le c te d le v e l A fibr e w u
Ţ be m a tu re if a M gh d e r ee
o f w a ll th ic k e n in g to o k p c e d u r in g c o tio n gr o w th
Ħbr e m a tu r ity d e p e n d s o n
B W e a th e r
Đ T y p e s o f s o iĮ
B P la n t d is e a s e s
@ p e s ķ
@ D e a d fib r as
/
' Im p o r ta n c e & m a h ir iw
1 N e p fo r m a ? ru Th e Jm īn a h ıre th in w a lle d libr e s a r e m o re
H e x ibıe th a n th ic k w a ıle d Iibr e the y bJe n d a n d ta n g le m o re
e a s ily fo n ııin g n e w U the s e a p pe a r in the dye d c lo th the y
s h o w u p a s s p e e c he s o tlig hte r s ha d e
O n e o t th e m a in tro u ble s c a iłs e d by th c p r e se n ce o f Uìe s e thin
ïl is cr e a te d d u rin g
Processin s ta r tin g a t the g]n Jt a la o o c c u rs fo r s o m e n a h ir a
c a u se s like fra gm e n ts o f se e d po d s w ilic h a u a c h e d Io ū
W h e re r u bbin g be tw e e n s u rfa ce s o c c u rs e g D u r in g ca rd in g
m in u te kn o ts o f ta n gle d libre a re c a u se d W n e n fin e c o llo n s a r
be in g p r o c e ss e d the d a n ge r o f n e pp ln g is e v e n m o r e a c u te sin c
e v e n m la łu r e lin e c o tto n s ( a n b? rie ppe d by fa u lty p r o c e s s in g
Z D ye iTlg ￠a t￠k s h n w }a Įa re fibæs c a n n o t be d y cr l e v e n ł! If in
fa bń c th e r e is ya m o fim n ria tu r e fibr e s s h a d e v a r ia tio n w illo c c lu
T he thin n e r the s e c o n d a r y c e ll w a ll the ligh te r th e s ha d e w ill bc
F in e c o tto n te n d s to be ıig h te r in s ha d e ů ø n c o ĉ tr s e c o tto rL
3 I in e n e s s T h e im m a tu re fibr e s c a n n o t p r o d u c e fin e fa bric a n
ya m Im rria tu riy d e c r e a s e s th e w e igh t o f u n it le n gth o f fibre a n
th u s r e d u c e s fin e n e s s A s a Re s u lt the a cc u ra c y o f th e te s t is ba d i
a ffe c te d
& h s 8 y a m s tre n g th D u e to i t u ń t y ya m sngth re d u c e
a n d fo r tha t bre a ka ge o fya m o c c lırs d u r in g s p in n in g
5 H s 8 p r o d u c tio n E n ds d o w n is in c r e a s e d d u e to im m a h ır iF
A s a r e s u lt p r o d u c tio n is le s s
6 Fa b r ic q u a lity Im m a tu re fibre s a r e te s s a bs o r b e n t a n d ha
u n e v e n s u ń a c e So the y a r e u n c o m fo r ta b le in h a n dle a n
w e a v in g
7 Y a m h a irin e s s : Im m a h ıre fib e le a d s to ya m h a ir in e ss
8 Pr o b le m in s pin ńin g "he im m a tu r e fibr e the fra gm en ts
se e d po d a tta c h e d to a fibr e w hich c re a te s gr e a t pro bıe m diu ir
w a Jıe d im m a n ıre libre s is n e p p in g
70
spin n in g
7 l
38.
6 3 Me th o d s o f d e «e r m in a tio n o f nıahity
6 3 1 D ir e c t M e th o d C a u s tic So d a S w e llin g M e th o d
It is th e m o s t c o ın m o n ļ y u s e d m e tho d
A th in h ıft o f fib æ s is d ra w n by m e a n s o f tw e e z e rs fr o m a s liv e r
h e ld in a c o m b s o r te r T h e h ıft Ķ la id o n a m ic ro sc o p e s lid e the
fib r e s p a r a lle l a n d s e p a r a te d a n d a c o v e r s ıip is p u t o v e r the
m id d le L ik e w is e fo w to e igh t s lid e s a r e pr e pa re d
T w o s te p s a r e in v o lv e d in this m e th o d
a )T ie a tm e n t w ith 18 % c a u s tic s o d a
b ) E X t i o n lın d e r a m ia o óc o p e to c o u n t tì e m a h ır e ha lf
m a h ır e a n d im n a h ır e ĥ br e s
T h e fib r e s o n th e m ic r o s c o pe s lid e a r e th e n irT iga te d w ith a s m a ll
a m o u n t o f 18 % c a u s tic s o d a s o lu tio n w h ic h c a iıs e s s w e llin g
e ffe c t T h e s lid e is th e n p la c e d o n th e s ta g e o f a m ic r o s c o p e a ń d
e x a m iin e d T h e p r e s e n c e o r a b sm c e o f c o n v o lu tio n s is the n
°
b s e r v e d a n d th e fib re s a re class in to ihr e e w p
1 N o r m a io r m a tıır e libn e s
2 T h in w a lle d fibr e s
3 D e a d fibre s
L N o r m a l f ı N o rm a l fibre s w ith a welleveloped c e ll w a ll
a n d p r o m o c o n v o lu tio n s in the ra w s ta te a n d be c o m e ro d
lik e a fte r s w e llin g It is d e n o te d by y In n o rıria lfibn es n o e m pty
e s a r e s e m in lomgĵ tu se c tio n
O u h e k ?
.
o w
F;: N Łn Q
SQ tm do
y m ll
Z T h in w a lle d fib r e e T h in w a lle d fib r e s h a v in g th e s tn ıc tu re
a n d c ha ra c te ń s tic s ı)ńn g be tw e m n o r m a ıa n d d e a d fib re s It is
d m o te d b y T
3 D e a d f i D e a d fibr e s a p p e a r r ib b o n lik e e v e n a fte r
s w e llin g T h e y a r e e x tr e m e ly im m a h ır e fib re If th e c e lıw a ll is
le s s th a n o n e fifth o f ths to ta lw id th o f th e fib r e is te r m e d a s d e a d
fib re
D ıo d
T h i » d d
* u
n ııı
T he c o m tin g a n d c ıa s s ific a ū o n is d o n e in s l a
1 A llth e fibre a re c o u n te d
Z T he ro d Iike ßbn es m c o u n te d N
3 T h e d e a d fibn es a re c o u n ted D
73
72
39.
g r ou ps th e n u m be rs c o n v e rte d to p e rc e n ta ge s a n d the
Wc a lc u la te d T h e r e s u ıt Is thm e x a s N D e g 64 14 w o u ldm e a n th a t 64 % o f the fibr e s c o tın te d w e re classed a s n o rm a l o r
m a a n d 1 4 % c la s s e d a s de a d b y s u b tr a ctio n 22% w o u ld be
c ıa s s e d a s th in w a lle d fib re s
ty r a t i M a tu r ity ra tio o f a m e tło d o f n u m e ric a llye x p n es s in g th e m a tu r ity o fa s a m p le o f c o tto n fib re It is The r a tio
o f a c tu a l d e g r e e o f w a ll th ic ke n in g to a s ta n d a r d d e gr e e o f w a ıl
th ic k e n in g
S o M a tu r ity r a tio
sta n da rd de gre e o f c e lıw a llthic ke n in g
In o th e r w o r d s M a tu r iv r a tio is th e r a tio w hic h e x pre s se s the
a c ťu a l fib r e w e ig h t pe r c e n tim e te r H in re la tio n to a s ta n d a r d
fib r e w e igh t p e r c e n tim e te r H
S o M a tu r ity r a tio
ł A c tu a lfibre w t pe r c m
H S ta n da rd fıbre w t p(T c m
N D
S h o w th a Ļ M
2oo
+ ü 7 R e la tio n e e n im m a h u ity
c o u n t & Ħb r e w e igh Ł
Ľ e Ļ N R o d like n o r m a lfibr e s
D D e a d fibr e s (r ib b o n like )
H A c tu a lĥ br e w e igh t pe r c
H Šta n d a r d fibr e w e igh t pe r c m
】e ir c e a n d L o r d fo u n d N D a n d H fo r s e v e r a l p tłre s tra irB o
c o tto n a n d w jtM n e a c h s e rie s o n ly the m a h ırity v a rie d A lín e a
a Jih q n Ħeorlj
l F 7 7 ċ ť ť h
A n d the n o o fde a d fibre D 7
4 N 1)
So M a tu rity r a tio M
0 9370{N D )+ 135 2
19 1342
0 0049 (N D )+ 0 706
Fo r r o u n d e d fig u re M
N D
+ 0 7
2 00
th e m a tu r ity ra tio is th e r e fo re p ro po r tio n a l to the de gre e o f
thic ke n in g o f th e c e llw
Fo r c o tto n e 0 577 M [A s P e ir c e ? Lo rd l
Fo r a lıd e a J fibr e s N O D 100
O 100
So M + 0 7 0 2
200
Fo r a llm a tu re o r n o rm a lfibre s N 100 D O
So M
100 0
+ 0 7 1 2
200
So the th e o r e tic a l ra n ge fo r v a lu e o f M w ill be fr o m 0 2 to 1 2 fo t
a lld e a d a n d a llm a ttıre o r n o r m a lfibre s
D e 8re e o f c e llw a llthickenieg/
T he Je gr e e o f w a ll thic ke n in g m a y be e x pre ss e d a s thJe o
the a c thd c r o s s se ctio n a l a r e a o f the w a ll to th e a r e a o ￡th e D d
w ith tlie s a m e p a r a m e te r
ĺ Į l b
7 5
r e ıa tio n s h ip w a s fo u n d be tw e e n H a n d N O
7 4
H 0 9370 (N D )+ 135 2
A n d H s 0 9370 167 7)+ 135 2
n o rd in g to s ta n d a rd c o u n tin &
The n o o f n o r m a lfibre N * 67
40.
U C Uu
y U i
i
'
Ī
F igu re D tgr« ￠hickm in g
'
tfa co lıo n jlbr e
S o le t A be th e a c tu a l c ro w s e c tio n a l a r e a o f the w a ll a n d A h
e a r e a o f th e c ir c le o fthe s a iııe p e r im e te r
S o D e gr e e o fw a llth ic ke n in & e
7 h tn o r
A P çlu d C
4tr
2
r
2 e I/ c
N o w A Jr r
2
F R a d iu s o f the c ircle
4tr
> A W (2 }r r )2 4 Jr 2ta
】
L e t P p e r im e te r o f the c irc le 2n r
S o e
A Å 4
A Ť
ı D iffe r e n tia l D ye in g M e t h
M s e a s o f th e fibr e m a h ır itr O n e o f th e tr o u Ęle s c a u s e d h
im m a h ır e fibn e s w a s fa u lty d ye in & T h is d iffe r e ir e be tw e e n dï
d ye in g p r o p ta tie s o f m a h ır e a n d im m a tu re fibr e s is e m plo ye d il
th e G o ld r
fthe m a tiırity
o
严
打
T w o d ye s m e u se d o n the s a m e ba th a r e d a n d a gre e n d y e
M a tu re fibr e s a r c s ta in e d r e d a n d im M tu r ily libn ea gre e rĻ th e
re d c o lo r be in g d e v e Jo pe d in the c e uïilo e e o f the s e c o w all
H e n c e little o r n o x c o n d a ry w a ll th k k e n in g n o re d
A 3g m o fSa m ple c o tto n is s titc h e d lo o s e ly in to a p ie ce o fga ıız e to
fo rm a tM n fla t pa d T his is th o r o u gN y w e tte d o u t in bo ilin g
d is tille d w a te r a n d tr m fe r r e d to th e bo ilin g d ye ba th
T h e ba th is p re pa re d fr o m 180gm o fw a te r lg m o f D ip he n yl F a s t
R e d S u p r a 1 a rıd 2gm o fO llo r a inū n e F a s t G re e n B L L
A fte r 15m in the s a m ple is te m p o r a r ily r e m o v e d tu a llo w 1 o f
s o d iu m c N o r ide to be a d d e d to th e b a th A s e c o n d 15m in 】x ıiıin gis a ga in fo llo w e d by te m p o r a r y r e m o v a l to a llo w a fu r th e r 1 8 g m
o f s o d it m c N o ride to be a d d e d to th e d ye b a ? A fin a l 15m in
tr e a tm e n t is giv e n to the sa m p le be fo r e
nm o v i n d ra in in g a n d
w a s h in g in tw o c ha n ge s o f c o ld w a te r N eg d the s a m p le is
w a s h e d in v igo ro u s ly bo ilin g w a te r fo r 30se c re m o v e d w a s h e din c o ld w a te r a n J ? ie d
T h e o bse r v e r a s se s se s the in c id e n c e
pr o p o r tio n o fgre e n pre se n t
th w a ite te s t Io giv e a v is u a l in d ic a tio n
[ +ł
41.
c ı
7 1F ib r e fin e n e s s
T he fibr e fin e n e s s is e x p r e s se d in w e igh t p e r u n it lm gth o r le n gth
p e r w e ig h t A c c o rd in g to ıe x tile In s titu te th e fin e n e s s o f
c o tto n s ilk a n d m a n u fa c h ır e d fibre s is u s u a lly e x p re s se d in te r m s
o f a v e r a ge lin e a r d e n s ity
A s in g le fıb r e h a s v a r ia ble D s s s e c tio n a lo n g its le n 吕나1 a n J
v a r ie s in c r s e c tio n s h a pe fro m fibr e to fibr e T ü o v e rc o m e
th e ir e ffe đ in c a lc u la tin g ū ru n e s s s a m e in d e x o f fin e n e ss is
d e ń v e d
M a s s V o ]m e x D e n s ity
s e c t i o n a re a x le n g th × d e n s ity
F o r a kn o w n le n g th o tr u n it lw
N{a s s a C r o o n a l a re a
F o r th is s u ita b le fin e n e ó s in de x is ta k e n by m e a s u r in g th e w e ight
o f a kn o w n lm g th o f fibr e is c a lle d lin e a r d e n s ity a n d this is
e x p r e só e d in ter m s o f w e ig ht pe r u n it lm gth
H e n c e fin e n e s s c a n b e c a ıc tııa r d
72 Im p o ń a n c e o f fin e n e s s
1 L o w e r irr e g u la r ity o f y a rıĽ W ith a gre a te r n u m be r o f fibre s in
th e crotion th e ba s
;f Im w la r ity is re d u c e d T he fin e r the
ħbr e the h e r th e n u m ķ r a rid
y lo w e r the i a r it
e
fibr e giv e s iïw r e r e gu la r ya m tha n the c o a r s e fibre
78
2 U n ifo r m ity o f C O U A fin e fibre c a n be e p u n to fin e r tha n
c o a r s e fibr e m e a s tır e m e r ıt o f fir um e a s In o the r w o r d a th e ħn e r
the fibre th e fligłier the ya m
c o u n t be
3 U n ifo r m ity o f sW H In a giv e n o n a l w if a
giv m c o u n t is s p u n a fin e a n d c o a rs e fibre a m o r e a n d a a tra n ge r
ya 】n w ill r e śu lt fr o m the fin e fibn e beca u se o f be in g la r ge n o o f
fin ė f fibr e
& U n ifo r m o f fa br ic c h a r a đe r ia tim A s ón e ĥ br e giv e s m o r e
u n ifo r m ya m 5o it Giv e s go o d qu a lity fa br ic v n th a n ifo r m
pr o pe r ty
5 Le e s tw ie h T he fin e r the fibr e the p e a te r the to ta l s u rfa c e s
a r e a a v a ila b le fo r in te r fibre c o n ta c t a n d c o n se qu e n tly le ss tw is t is
n e e dtx l to p r o v ide the n e c e s s a ry c o hes im
6
» in n in g p e r f e 1h e fin e n e s s o f th e fibu " H ec ts s e v e ra l
m ec ha n ic a l pro pe rtie s a n d the r efo re in flu e n c e s the be ha v io tır o f
the fibre d u r in g pro c e s s in g
7 G o o d a p p e a r a n c e : T he Fin e r ya m produced fib r e is
go o d a ppe a r a n c e
8 H a l
In the fin e r ya m le s s n e ps k
73 Prin c ip le o f ĥ bre fin e n e a e m e e n b
1 G ra v im e tr ic m e tho d
Fibre Fin en e s s
79
42.
fir s tthe co m b s o r te r
T h e n 5 h ıfts o f fib r e a re ta k e n a t in te r v a ls d o w n the d ia gr a m
a n d fr o m e a c h h ıft a se ctio n is s lic e d o u t b y m e a n s o f tw o
r a z o r b la d e s s e t in a h o ld e r a t a s p a c in g o f 1 c m
h e n . s i ng a l ar g e l en s a n d goo d l ight in& 100 fibre s a r e
c o ıın te d fr o m e a c h o fthe h ıfts
a c h g ro u p o f 1 00 f ibne s i s c o l lec t ed a n d w e i ghe d o n a
s e n s itiv e M ic r o b a la n c e
h e me a n fibr e we i ght per ce n t ime t er is ca l c u l a
f ter d e t er m i ni ng t he m a t y o f c o t ton , his m a b e
c o m te d «o g iv e th e s ta n da rd ￡ibr e w e igh ť p e r c e n tim e te r H s
2 B a M fib r e «
t first five hıfts fro m the st ap le di ag r a ın ar e t
h e n t hey ar e c o m b e d strai gh t a n d a k n o w n l en g t h is c u t
fr o th th e m id d le o fe a c h h ıït
A lıth e fib re s a re w e ighe d to a n a c c u r a c y o f1 in 100
he nu m b er of fibres co u n æd ,
T h e m e a n fibr e w e ight pe, i ıe n gth is th e n c a lc u la te d
80
3 M a n m a d e a ta p
h e l en g th of
v e lv e t p a d
w o pa i rs of twe e z e r s ar e us e d to re ıno v e the cr i mp .
a c h fitıe ia we i ghed on a mi cr o bal e an d the il s u l B ue e d H»
c a lc u la te the fibr e w e ig ht p e r u n it lm M
ŁW o o l
A fte r c o m p le tin g a fibr e lm gth the fib r e s a r e c o lle ıe d a n d
tho r o u gh ly c le a re d o fo il a llo w e d to c o n d itio n a n d the n w e igh e d
o n a m ic r o ba la n c e T h e to ta l óbr e ıe n g th is c a l t e d a n d
kn o w in g th e n u m be r o f fibr e s the fibr e w e ig h t pe r u n it c a n b e
de ńv e d
Le t h th e c la s s lm gth
N th e n u m be r o f fibr e s in e a c h c la s s
W th e to ta l w e igh t o f a ll th e classes
T h e n M e a n w e igh t p e r u n it le n ￡
W
W
i
F o r a giv e n d e n s ity th e w e igh t p e r u n it le n g th a th e
fibr e d ia a r e re la he d A s s tım in & a c ir c u la r c r o s s s ec tio n a n d
tag th e d e n s ity o fw o o lto be 1 31 th e d ia m e te r is giv e n b y
d
(卢)
W h e r e W is the to ta lw e igh t o f the fibr e s in m g
n is th e n tım be r o f fibr e s ih e a c h le s gth c la s e o fh a n
a n d d g is th e d ia o ffibre s in m ic r o n s
2 O p t i c a l
3 A ir flo w m e th o d
4 V ib ro īn e th o d
7 G r a v im e tr lc m e th o d
1 C o tto m
Fo r c a r r yin g o u t th is e r im e n t a t
d ia g r a m is m a d e
le flh e
in d iv id u a l fiine is m e a s b y a sc a le o n a
43.
inciple
】n th ism e th o d fibr e fin e rıe s s is m e a s u r e d b v a ir Ūo w Ií la r
ge
1M o u łt o l tir i5 blown the fibre w ill t c ( a r s e a n J ir
Small
3 il ło u n o l a ir is blo m the fibre V iıl be fin e T he m e ihod
ba s e d ıĦ th is p r in ç Jp ļë
h w e d u ī e
Ą s a m p le o f b l o w n w e įgh t is ta k e n a n ti c o m p r e sse d in a
c Jil d e r ro a Į o w n ľ û lu m e a n d s u bje c te &j to a n ] ir c u rre n tat
a 3c n o n p re s s u r e
T h e rćtt o f 3 ır Į ìo ľ tl? o u g h the p o r o u s p lu g ( t fibre is
m e a s tır e d
S u F p ) s e tw o c ivļįn D e r s o f s im ila r d im e n s io n s w e re filled
w ith
a ) A fe w c v lin d e r r o d s o f ıa r ge d ia m e te r
b ) Ąany r o d s o f s m a lld ia m e te r
If a ir v e r e b}o w n thr Q u gh th e tw o c y lin d e r s a t the sa m e
pres seıit w o u Įd b! fin d in g th a tifie r a te o f ir flo w thro u gh
(b)w a s je s s tha n thro u gh (a )
T h e re a s o n is tııa t the a ir Ðo w in g thr o u gh (b) h a s rn o re ro d
s u rfa c e to n o w p a s t
T he d iffe r e n c e in ı th e r a tę o í a ir 1 v is a m e a s u r e o f the
d iffe re n c e in th e s u r fa c e a re a o f the la r ge d ia m e te r a n d s m a ll
d ia m e te r r o d s T h is le a ds 1Js to c o n s id e r the s pe cific s u r fa c e
C a lc u latio n
ł!q tJ l l v r .
Sp e c ific s u rfa c e is d e fin e d a s the ra tio o f s u rfa c e a r e a to v o lu m e
ie S p e c ific s u r fa c e
Su rfa c e a re a
V o l내田 0
le t th e v o lu m e o f the c ylin d e r V C r o s s s e c tio n a re aĻ A x
L e n g th L
.
J . " :[A .
ĺ )
'
d d ia m e te r]
A n d su r fa c e a re a o fc ylin der rr d L
L
T h e r e fo r e s pe c ific s Lır fa c e S
. D L "
T h e r a tio is q u a l to th e r a tio o f
Pe rim e te r o f c ro ss se c tio n
A r e a o r c ro ss se c tio n
4
f
甘 d
4
( )
Fip A * 沁 园 知 」
82
44.
F o rfib n zs o f c ir c tıla r o n s pe c ific s u rfa c e is in v e rs e ly
p ro po r tio ru l tQ th e fibre d ia m e te r Refore by m e a s u rin g Łhc
r a te o f * ir fıo w u n d e r c o n tr o lle d c o n d itio n the s pe c ific s u rfa c e S
u n it le n g th o r fin e n e s s c o u ıd be d e r iv e d
7 X e W A c o tto n fin e n e a s m e te r
T h is in s tr u m e n t is a m o d ifie d v e r s io n o f th e W o o lfin e n e ss m e te r
a n d is m a n u fa c tu r e d by Shir le y D e v e l叩 m e n ts L td T h e d ia gr a m
o f th e ge n e r a l a r r a n ge m e n t o f th e a p p a r a tu s is s ho w n in fig
C o m tr u c tio n
n t hi s a p p a r a h ıs i s a cy lin? i ca l hoıde r w i th a p er f or at ed
fa ls e bo tto m
is a m a n o m e t er wh i ch ind i ca t es t he pr es su r e di ffer en c e i n-
C
V is a c o n tr o l v a ıv e w h c o n tr o ls a ir flo w thro u gh c o tto n
p lu g
is a Ho w me t er ind i ca ting ai r Ho w in litne per mi n.
ïn this c ha m be r a s a m p le o f íix e d w e igh t (5 g m ) is
c o m p r e s se d to a fix e d v o lu m e by p is to n P
Wkins Ħ ín c ip le
,
T tple weĮ ed to an a c c t ırac y of 10 , 5 gm i s f luf fed
u p to e lĖrıim te a n y ta n gle d p a r ts
h e s a m p l e i s t he n p a c k ed int o t he w į iį ņdiçd he e r an d
c o m p d to a c o n s ta n t v o e by th e te d plu n g e r
W ith the flo w c o n tr o l v a lv e s h u t the e x ha u s t p u m p is
s w itc he d o n
T he a ir flo w is th e n re g u la te d by th e c o n tr o ! v a lv e unii th e
m a n o m e te r in clic a te s tha t a p r e s s u r e d iffe re n c e o f i8 ç m n f d
w a te r a c r o s s th e e n is o f the pıu g o fc o tto n 1
b
W
T h e fıo w m e tc r to be is g r a d u a te d in m ic r o n a ir e a n d Th e
W g a t the tp p o f the in d ic a to r flo a t is r e c o r d e d
V
T p 呷
F it S t łi ￠ diw ıl W ! R A W t f t
A r e pe a t o bs e r v a tio n is m a d e a fte r re m o v in g th e s a m
p lė a n d
re pa c kin g it in to th e h o ıd e r
or grea t er ac c t ıra c ý , thi rd ob se r va t ion is op er at ed .
The n the m e a n v a lu e is ta k e n T he r e fo re dir e đ re a d įņ g o f
c o tto n fin e n e s s is g°t
H
84 85
45.
m ic to n ıin v u ? t h t te r m rn ıcn m a ire v a lu e i8 n o w a
ly
e x p n e ss ıo n a n d w hm a ı o ń g iru lly th e fiw m e ın t [ibtĘ
w e iM t īn rm c n m s pe r in c h
m m x T o m irr v a lu e negded a s in d ic a b o n o f m a h ır ity a n d
fu ıe n e « T h e u ru b a r e y i 8 n o
T b r h ig h e r m m m ırp v a lu e o t th e fibr e the fibr e
W ed
c o a r s e r
M r i r e v a lu e p la Y s a v ita l r o le d u r in g m ix in g o f d ifte rp n t
gr a d e s o t h b rp s to r v a m pr e p a r a tio n T h e highe r m i
v a İu e d lfte r e n c e o t fit r e highe r y a m ir r e g u la r ity
T h e 1rbres a rp c la s s ıİ ï d in d iffe r e n t gr a d e s o n th e ba s is o f
rr 山了 o n a ır e v a lu e
M ic r o m ir e v a )o t C ıa a e ific a tim o f fib r e
o r be lo w v m fin ę
3 0 to 3 9 fine
4 0 to 4 9 a v e ra ge
5 0 to 5 9 c o a r s e
6 0 to a bo v e v e ry c o lars e
S ya te m / U n it o f m e a ıu rin s fin e n e s e
T he fin e n e s s o f c o tto n fibr e is m e a s u r e d by fo ılo w in g tw o
s y s te m s
B ń h S y e te tM In this sys te m th e lin e a r d e n s ity is e idıe r the
n h w t pe r c n o r the w t pe r c m H
H e re th e u n it o f w t m illigr a m x 104
n
T he m t o f{in e n e s s H × 104 m gic n
Ex a m ple T h e fibr e w t pe r c m fo r a n A m er ic a n u p ıa n d c o tto n
m a y be 142 ie 192m g × 104 /c m
Z A ın e r ic a n S y e te m In th is s ys te m the lin e a r d e n s ity is
e x pre s s e t l in m ic r o gr a m ï»e r in c h
tere the u n it o fw t M ic r o gr a m (gm x 10+
)
T h e u n it o f le n g th in c h
E x a m p le : th e lin e a r d e n s ity o f A m e r ic a n Lip la n d w o u ld be 4 9
ie 4 9 m ic r o gr a m pe r in c h
In this s y s te m fın c n m is e x p re s se d in m ic T o n a ir e
R e la tio n b e tw e e n tw o fin e n e s a m e a s tır in g s y ıte n ıs
A m e r ic a n Iın e a r d e n s ity fib r e w t in gm x 10+
/ in c h
A × lo+
gm / in c h
Br itis h lin e a r d e n s ity fib n e w t In m g × 1(»5
/ Æ i
fibr e w t In gm x 1û a
x 104 / c tıl
H × lo+
gm /c m
H × 10 e x 2 54 gm / irw h
W e ha v e A × 10 6 H × 10 ıx 2 54
A H × 10 2 × 2 54
This is th e d e ń v e d re la tio n s hip b e tw e e n
A n d u Ń t o f lm g th c n
应人
87
46.
c hıpıtr 8Fibre Qu a lity
8 1 Q u a lity o f c o tto m Q u a lity o fco tto d e p e n de o r
C o lo u r
t ap l e ımg th.
ine me s s .
t re n g th.
M a tu r ity
r s h co t e t .
n i for m i ty ra t io.
B 1 2 G r a d in g o f c o tto
I d e to gr d e th q a lity f tt th ti g is d n e
a c c o r d in g to th e le e l o f th e le n g th fin e n e s s s tr e n gth c o lo u r
lu s h ır e n a h a l s tr a n d s a d im p u ń tie s in the ń b r e T h e s e a ie
d i id e d in d ille e n t w a ys c c o d in g to th e p ro d u c tio n la n d
C o n s id e r a b le p o in ts o f gr a d in g o f c o tto n
T h e a s se s s m e n t o f c o tio n i9 cTied o u t tr a d itio n a lly by th e c o tto n
c la s s e r h o d e pe n d s u p o n p er s o n a ls k ill a n d lo n g e x p e ń e n c e in
ju d gin g c o tto n q u a lity by in s p e c tio n a n d {e e l
In a r r iv in g a t h is a şs e s s m n t the c la s s e r ta ke s n o lc o f (1)The
s ta p le le n gth (2)T he ĉ o lo u r a n d (3)Th e a m o u n t o fim pu r ity in the
c o tto n a n d tlw qu a ıity o iits pr e pa ra tio n
88
u r a a ln g o t c o n o n o f a ffe r e n t c o u n ıH e a į i ż:
(Fro m high gra de tQ ıo to gr a￠ıe )
A m e ric a n c o tio n l c o tio n In d ia n c o tto n
]w d d lin g fa ir
rfine Is u p e r c h c ic e
s tr ic t g o o d m idd lin g lm I@ o i"
G o o do o d m id d ïin gg ll» a a rra p e r fin e
S lľ ic łm id dlin g lm g o o d fņ ir
图四
M id dlfn g = . d fa ir F u lly g o o d
S tr ic t lo w m id d lin g I四 lL o m id ? n g ļ I四国g o o d fa ir
s tr ic t g o o d
w w J
G o o d o r d in a ry
8 1 3 T r a a h c o n tèn tr
T o th e c o tto n gr o w e r b u ye r a n d p in n e r th e a m o tın t o f tr a s h inc o tio n is a m a jo r h e lo r in d e t r n ıin in g th e v a ıu e ın d q u a ıity o fc o tto n
T h e d e te r m in a tio n o f ıin t a n d tr a s h c o n tm t o f ra w c o tto n isim po r ta n c e s in c e th e p r e se m o f tr a s h d ir e c tly iiiÐu e n c e s th e n e t
c o tto n
a m o u n t o í ya m o r cloth tha t c a rt b e m a n u fa c tu re d fr o m a giv e in o f
T h e a m o u n t o f tr a s h r e m a in is g h v a r io u s iM en rıe d ia be p r o d u c t
a p 5 1iv e r e tc in a c a te s th e c le a n in g e ffic ie nc y o f machinesħe in s h ım e n t u se d to d e te r m in e the m m t o f lin t a n d tr a s h in
黩
th e
J tto n is c a lle d i e y T ra s h A n a ly z e r
89
47.
8 1 4L in t & ıin te r s w n e r e L 5o % w iA gth In m m m e a m u e d by 出事ta t
L in h T h ę fib r e s w h ic h a re pr im a r iıy o b ta in e d a fte r 8 e p aıa tlīıg
libro g ra ph
c o tto n fibr e fr o m s e e ds a r e c a ık d lin t
It is lo n g fib re Whi c h is u se d fo r te ĵd ile a p plica tio n e g Ym
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Q is th e m id p o in t o fO A ie O Q
'
0 4
F r o m Q d r a w Q p pa r a lle lto O B to c u t a t p
D r o p th e p e r p e n d ic u la r p ?
M a r k o ff O K e q u a l to
}ío p a n d e r e c t the
P e n d ic u la r K K
S is th e m id p o in t o f K K
F r o m S d r a w S R p a r a lle l to O B to c u t the c u r v a tu r e R
D r o p th e p e rp e n d ic u la r R R
M a r k o ff O L e q u a lto O R
E r e c t th e p e r p e n d ic u la r じし
E ffe c tiv e lm M E ffe c tiv e le n g th is the le n gth o f the
m a in b u lk o flo n ge r fibre
: E ffe c tiv e le n gth U
A v r a ge ]e n gth/ M e a n le n g th
Ár e a
q B
O B
a f th e ba s e lin e r e a d in g d iv id e d by ba se lin e le n g th
iv) M o da lle w L L
v ) P e rc e n ta ge o f s ho r t fibr e : T h is pe rc e n ta g e o f fibre le s s
tha n ha lfthe e ffe c tiv e le n gth
% Sho r ￠jibr e x 00%
v i) D is pe rs io n In fi L I js u pp E R qu a r tile a n d M h ï is !he
io w e r q u a j{íle w h aıe 0 0 ? O R
T h e d iffe r e n c e be tw e e n ıL a n d M M N L is th e in te r q u a r tile
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D is p e rs io n x 10 0%
L Z
v ii) Sta p le Le n gth 0 9 1 L L (A m e r ic a n U p la n d c o tto n )
L L (E gygtia n c o tto n )
3 3 3 F ib r o gr a p h
h o t oe l ec t ri c ce l ls ar e us e d in thi s Am e r i ca ins t ru m e n t for
m e a s u r in g th e le n gth c ha ra c te r is tic s o f c o tto n
A fr in ge o f c o tto n is pr e p a r e d b y ta k in g a b o u t 1 o z o f
c o tio n a n d c o m bin g it b y m e a n s o f tw o ha n d c o m bs
h e p rep ar e d sa m p le i s i n a s t ra i ghten e d co n d i tion w i th
th e fib r e s d iv id e d be m æ rľ th e tw o c o m b s th o s e lo n ge r
tha n 1 in c h m e c a u gh t in the te e th in a r a n d o m po sitio n
a lo n g th e ir le n gth
2
尺刀
口刀
4
M ? im u m L e n gth O A
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![c hıp te r 6 Fibre Maturity
o tho n )is a tibl e characistic w hic h e x p r e ssese d e gr e e o f thic k e n in g o f th e fibr e w n o the r w o rdsit is ttıe m e a s u r e o f p r im a r y a n d se c o n d a r y w a ll thic lc n e ss It isııs u a lly e s tirr ta te d by s e v e r a l in d ir e c t te s ts w h ich a r e o fte n u se dto ó n d o u t th e
p r o p o r tio n o f fibr e s c o n ta in in g a m a tu rity g r e a te rth a n s o m e s e le c te d le v e l A fibr e w u
Ţ be m a tu re if a M gh d e r ee
o f w a ll th ic k e n in g to o k p c e d u r in g c o tio n gr o w th
Ħbr e m a tu r ity d e p e n d s o n
B W e a th e r
Đ T y p e s o f s o iĮ
B P la n t d is e a s e s
@ p e s ķ
@ D e a d fib r as
/
' Im p o r ta n c e & m a h ir iw
1 N e p fo r m a ? ru Th e Jm īn a h ıre th in w a lle d libr e s a r e m o re
H e x ibıe th a n th ic k w a ıle d Iibr e the y bJe n d a n d ta n g le m o re
e a s ily fo n ııin g n e w U the s e a p pe a r in the dye d c lo th the y
s h o w u p a s s p e e c he s o tlig hte r s ha d e
O n e o t th e m a in tro u ble s c a iłs e d by th c p r e se n ce o f Uìe s e thin
ïl is cr e a te d d u rin g
Processin s ta r tin g a t the g]n Jt a la o o c c u rs fo r s o m e n a h ir a
c a u se s like fra gm e n ts o f se e d po d s w ilic h a u a c h e d Io ū
W h e re r u bbin g be tw e e n s u rfa ce s o c c u rs e g D u r in g ca rd in g
m in u te kn o ts o f ta n gle d libre a re c a u se d W n e n fin e c o llo n s a r
be in g p r o c e ss e d the d a n ge r o f n e pp ln g is e v e n m o r e a c u te sin c
e v e n m la łu r e lin e c o tto n s ( a n b? rie ppe d by fa u lty p r o c e s s in g
Z D ye iTlg ￠a t￠k s h n w }a Įa re fibæs c a n n o t be d y cr l e v e n ł! If in
fa bń c th e r e is ya m o fim n ria tu r e fibr e s s h a d e v a r ia tio n w illo c c lu
T he thin n e r the s e c o n d a r y c e ll w a ll the ligh te r th e s ha d e w ill bc
F in e c o tto n te n d s to be ıig h te r in s ha d e ů ø n c o ĉ tr s e c o tto rL
3 I in e n e s s T h e im m a tu re fibr e s c a n n o t p r o d u c e fin e fa bric a n
ya m Im rria tu riy d e c r e a s e s th e w e igh t o f u n it le n gth o f fibre a n
th u s r e d u c e s fin e n e s s A s a Re s u lt the a cc u ra c y o f th e te s t is ba d i
a ffe c te d
& h s 8 y a m s tre n g th D u e to i t u ń t y ya m sngth re d u c e
a n d fo r tha t bre a ka ge o fya m o c c lırs d u r in g s p in n in g
5 H s 8 p r o d u c tio n E n ds d o w n is in c r e a s e d d u e to im m a h ır iF
A s a r e s u lt p r o d u c tio n is le s s
6 Fa b r ic q u a lity Im m a tu re fibre s a r e te s s a bs o r b e n t a n d ha
u n e v e n s u ń a c e So the y a r e u n c o m fo r ta b le in h a n dle a n
w e a v in g
7 Y a m h a irin e s s : Im m a h ıre fib e le a d s to ya m h a ir in e ss
8 Pr o b le m in s pin ńin g "he im m a tu r e fibr e the fra gm en ts
se e d po d a tta c h e d to a fibr e w hich c re a te s gr e a t pro bıe m diu ir
w a Jıe d im m a n ıre libre s is n e p p in g
70
spin n in g
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![c ı
7 1 F ib r e fin e n e s s
T he fibr e fin e n e s s is e x p r e s se d in w e igh t p e r u n it lm gth o r le n gth
p e r w e ig h t A c c o rd in g to ıe x tile In s titu te th e fin e n e s s o f
c o tto n s ilk a n d m a n u fa c h ır e d fibre s is u s u a lly e x p re s se d in te r m s
o f a v e r a ge lin e a r d e n s ity
A s in g le fıb r e h a s v a r ia ble D s s s e c tio n a lo n g its le n 吕나1 a n J
v a r ie s in c r s e c tio n s h a pe fro m fibr e to fibr e T ü o v e rc o m e
th e ir e ffe đ in c a lc u la tin g ū ru n e s s s a m e in d e x o f fin e n e ss is
d e ń v e d
M a s s V o ]m e x D e n s ity
s e c t i o n a re a x le n g th × d e n s ity
F o r a kn o w n le n g th o tr u n it lw
N{a s s a C r o o n a l a re a
F o r th is s u ita b le fin e n e ó s in de x is ta k e n by m e a s u r in g th e w e ight
o f a kn o w n lm g th o f fibr e is c a lle d lin e a r d e n s ity a n d this is
e x p r e só e d in ter m s o f w e ig ht pe r u n it lm gth
H e n c e fin e n e s s c a n b e c a ıc tııa r d
72 Im p o ń a n c e o f fin e n e s s
1 L o w e r irr e g u la r ity o f y a rıĽ W ith a gre a te r n u m be r o f fibre s in
th e crotion th e ba s
;f Im w la r ity is re d u c e d T he fin e r the
ħbr e the h e r th e n u m ķ r a rid
y lo w e r the i a r it
e
fibr e giv e s iïw r e r e gu la r ya m tha n the c o a r s e fibre
78
2 U n ifo r m ity o f C O U A fin e fibre c a n be e p u n to fin e r tha n
c o a r s e fibr e m e a s tır e m e r ıt o f fir um e a s In o the r w o r d a th e ħn e r
the fibre th e fligłier the ya m
c o u n t be
3 U n ifo r m ity o f sW H In a giv e n o n a l w if a
giv m c o u n t is s p u n a fin e a n d c o a rs e fibre a m o r e a n d a a tra n ge r
ya 】n w ill r e śu lt fr o m the fin e fibn e beca u se o f be in g la r ge n o o f
fin ė f fibr e
& U n ifo r m o f fa br ic c h a r a đe r ia tim A s ón e ĥ br e giv e s m o r e
u n ifo r m ya m 5o it Giv e s go o d qu a lity fa br ic v n th a n ifo r m
pr o pe r ty
5 Le e s tw ie h T he fin e r the fibr e the p e a te r the to ta l s u rfa c e s
a r e a a v a ila b le fo r in te r fibre c o n ta c t a n d c o n se qu e n tly le ss tw is t is
n e e dtx l to p r o v ide the n e c e s s a ry c o hes im
6
» in n in g p e r f e 1h e fin e n e s s o f th e fibu " H ec ts s e v e ra l
m ec ha n ic a l pro pe rtie s a n d the r efo re in flu e n c e s the be ha v io tır o f
the fibre d u r in g pro c e s s in g
7 G o o d a p p e a r a n c e : T he Fin e r ya m produced fib r e is
go o d a ppe a r a n c e
8 H a l
In the fin e r ya m le s s n e ps k
73 Prin c ip le o f ĥ bre fin e n e a e m e e n b
1 G ra v im e tr ic m e tho d
Fibre Fin en e s s
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】n th is m e th o d fibr e fin e rıe s s is m e a s u r e d b v a ir Ūo w Ií la r
ge
1M o u łt o l tir i5 blown the fibre w ill t c ( a r s e a n J ir
Small
3 il ło u n o l a ir is blo m the fibre V iıl be fin e T he m e ihod
ba s e d ıĦ th is p r in ç Jp ļë
h w e d u ī e
Ą s a m p le o f b l o w n w e įgh t is ta k e n a n ti c o m p r e sse d in a
c Jil d e r ro a Į o w n ľ û lu m e a n d s u bje c te &j to a n ] ir c u rre n tat
a 3c n o n p re s s u r e
T h e rćtt o f 3 ır Į ìo ľ tl? o u g h the p o r o u s p lu g ( t fibre is
m e a s tır e d
S u F p ) s e tw o c ivļįn D e r s o f s im ila r d im e n s io n s w e re filled
w ith
a ) A fe w c v lin d e r r o d s o f ıa r ge d ia m e te r
b ) Ąany r o d s o f s m a lld ia m e te r
If a ir v e r e b}o w n thr Q u gh th e tw o c y lin d e r s a t the sa m e
pres seıit w o u Įd b! fin d in g th a tifie r a te o f ir flo w thro u gh
(b)w a s je s s tha n thro u gh (a )
T h e re a s o n is tııa t the a ir Ðo w in g thr o u gh (b) h a s rn o re ro d
s u rfa c e to n o w p a s t
T he d iffe r e n c e in ı th e r a tę o í a ir 1 v is a m e a s u r e o f the
d iffe re n c e in th e s u r fa c e a re a o f the la r ge d ia m e te r a n d s m a ll
d ia m e te r r o d s T h is le a ds 1Js to c o n s id e r the s pe cific s u r fa c e
C a lc u latio n
ł!q tJ l l v r .
Sp e c ific s u rfa c e is d e fin e d a s the ra tio o f s u rfa c e a r e a to v o lu m e
ie S p e c ific s u r fa c e
Su rfa c e a re a
V o l내田 0
le t th e v o lu m e o f the c ylin d e r V C r o s s s e c tio n a re aĻ A x
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.
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d d ia m e te r]
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L
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. D L "
T h e r a tio is q u a l to th e r a tio o f
Pe rim e te r o f c ro ss se c tio n
A r e a o r c ro ss se c tio n
4
f
甘 d
4
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Fip A * 沁 园 知 」
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![c hıpıtr 8 Fibre Qu a lity
8 1 Q u a lity o f c o tto m Q u a lity o fco tto d e p e n de o r
C o lo u r
t ap l e ımg th.
ine me s s .
t re n g th.
M a tu r ity
r s h co t e t .
n i for m i ty ra t io.
B 1 2 G r a d in g o f c o tto
I d e to gr d e th q a lity f tt th ti g is d n e
a c c o r d in g to th e le e l o f th e le n g th fin e n e s s s tr e n gth c o lo u r
lu s h ır e n a h a l s tr a n d s a d im p u ń tie s in the ń b r e T h e s e a ie
d i id e d in d ille e n t w a ys c c o d in g to th e p ro d u c tio n la n d
C o n s id e r a b le p o in ts o f gr a d in g o f c o tto n
T h e a s se s s m e n t o f c o tio n i9 cTied o u t tr a d itio n a lly by th e c o tto n
c la s s e r h o d e pe n d s u p o n p er s o n a ls k ill a n d lo n g e x p e ń e n c e in
ju d gin g c o tto n q u a lity by in s p e c tio n a n d {e e l
In a r r iv in g a t h is a şs e s s m n t the c la s s e r ta ke s n o lc o f (1)The
s ta p le le n gth (2)T he ĉ o lo u r a n d (3)Th e a m o u n t o fim pu r ity in the
c o tto n a n d tlw qu a ıity o iits pr e pa ra tio n
88
u r a a ln g o t c o n o n o f a ffe r e n t c o u n ıH e a į i ż:
(Fro m high gra de tQ ıo to gr a￠ıe )
A m e ric a n c o tio n l c o tio n In d ia n c o tto n
]w d d lin g fa ir
rfine Is u p e r c h c ic e
s tr ic t g o o d m idd lin g lm I@ o i"
G o o do o d m id d ïin gg ll» a a rra p e r fin e
S lľ ic łm id dlin g lm g o o d fņ ir
图四
M id dlfn g = . d fa ir F u lly g o o d
S tr ic t lo w m id d lin g I四 lL o m id ? n g ļ I四国g o o d fa ir
s tr ic t g o o d
w w J
G o o d o r d in a ry
8 1 3 T r a a h c o n tèn tr
T o th e c o tto n gr o w e r b u ye r a n d p in n e r th e a m o tın t o f tr a s h inc o tio n is a m a jo r h e lo r in d e t r n ıin in g th e v a ıu e ın d q u a ıity o fc o tto n
T h e d e te r m in a tio n o f ıin t a n d tr a s h c o n tm t o f ra w c o tto n isim po r ta n c e s in c e th e p r e se m o f tr a s h d ir e c tly iiiÐu e n c e s th e n e t
c o tto n
a m o u n t o í ya m o r cloth tha t c a rt b e m a n u fa c tu re d fr o m a giv e in o f
T h e a m o u n t o f tr a s h r e m a in is g h v a r io u s iM en rıe d ia be p r o d u c t
a p 5 1iv e r e tc in a c a te s th e c le a n in g e ffic ie nc y o f machinesħe in s h ım e n t u se d to d e te r m in e the m m t o f lin t a n d tr a s h in
黩
th e
J tto n is c a lle d i e y T ra s h A n a ly z e r
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