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Uploaded byShubhamPandey703082
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Introduction of Linen : Fibre to Fabric

The document provides information on the process of transforming flax fiber into linen fabric. It begins with an introduction to flax fiber and its properties. It then outlines the entire process flow from bale opening to prepare the raw flax fibers through wet spinning of yarns, weaving of fabrics, and finishing processes like bleaching, dyeing, and calendaring. Key steps include hackling to clean fibers, spinning yarns, warping yarns, weaving on looms, and finishing the woven fabric through various treatments. The end product is high-quality linen fabric.

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Linenfibreto fabric By Shubham Pandey About Me
Linen Facts- 2 Properties of linen fibre Heritage of Linen Fibre? Linen is one of the oldest fabrics known to mankind. It has been venerated for its purity and longevity - found in a condition of perfect preservation even after more than 3,000 years. Why Linen in Unique? Cultivated with love, Flax is grown in a wide coastal band of Western Europe, stretching from the South of Normandy in Northern France through Belgium and the Netherlands. European flax cannot be duplicated anywhere else on the planet.
INTRODUCTION  Flax being a bast (wood based) fiber, is the strongest among the natural cellulosic fibers.  Extracted from the skin of the stem of the flax plant, Flax is manufactured into linen yarn for thread or woven fabrics.  Flax fibre from Belgium & France  Flax fiber length varies from about 25 to 150 mm (1 to 6 in) and average 12-16 micrometers in diameter.  Classified further : Shorter tow fibers - used for coarser fabrics Longer line fibers - used for finer fabrics.  Flax fibers can usually be identified by their “nodes” which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric.  The cross-section of the linen fiber is made up of irregular polygonal shapes which contribute to the coarse texture of the fabric. 3
Present scenario of Linen Fibre & End use of fabric. • Linen is an all-season fabric with thermoregulatory properties. • Linen used for Home Textiles, ethnic wear, suiting & shirting & few segments in women wears. • Due to anti-bacterial properties highly used in Medi- textiles. • According to the latest report in covid-19 linen is using huge quantity in mask & cover fabric. 4
PROCESS FLOW Bale Opening Segregation Drawing Conditioning Hackling Roving
Boiling Bleaching Drying Yarn Dyeing Wet Spinning Winding Warping
Yarn Drawing Piece Dyeing Inspection /Testing Weaving Finishing Packing 7
Bale Opening Procured Bales (raw material) from France, Belgium are in two forms: Cylindrical , Cuboidal Manually opening / loosening of fibers is done. Conditioning Segregation Water is sprinkled/sprayed over the bale. Improves strength , smoothness Moisture- 75-80%  Temp. – 30-35 degree centigrade  Done manually by workers  Sorting of raw material in bundles according to Quality and fineness.  Bundles of about 100-120g raw fibers is made.  Perforated table (with air suction) is used. 8
Hackling  Cleaning the raw fibre materials Separation of quality fibre from the low  Segregated fibre Hackled slivers (30 – 40 gm/m)  Waste: Tow (25% - 30%)  Make: FLCB, James Mackie, Belfast. Model – FH3898  4 hackling machines in Plant-1  Cycle time of hackling machine is 7 minutes.  Processing capacity: 400 kg/ shift 9
Drawing • Hackled slivers passed through rollers. • Improves shine, texture • Hackled slivers Drawn slivers • Machine : James Mackie, Italian. Model – FX280B. (24 draw frames, 6 in each system) Roving Boiling and Bleaching • Provides strength , false twist to drawn slivers. • Essential before bleaching / boiling process • Drawn slivers Roved slivers • Roving machine by James Mackie, model – FX 402A • Feed of 48 sliver cans & output of 96 spindles per machine • Boiling - Done to remove grease and dust materials. • Bleaching - Removal of natural colouring matters • Roved slivers Boiled/bleached roved slivers Image source – Internet Image source – Internet 10
WetSpinning • Imparts definite count to the yarn. • Makes slivers suitable for weaving . • Bleached or boiled roved slivers Spun yarns  Spindle Speed: 3700-3800 m/min  37 machines having 120 bobbins each Image source – Internet Image source – Internet 11
Drying • Drying of the wet yarns after the wet spinning process. • Wet spun yarn Dried spun yarns • Machine used: RF drier • Speed of conveyor - 4.5m/h Winding • Helps in manageable package formation of yarns • Big yarn packages are formed • Dried spun yarns Packages of spun yarns (Weight: 1-1.5 kg) • Machine : Schlafhorst Autoconer • Production – 3 tones/day Image source – Internet 12
YarnDyeing Process of applying the desired colours to the spun yarns. Undyed yarns Dyed yarns Machines used: Hank dyeing machine Dye Used: (1) Reactive Dyes (2) Vat Dyes 13
14 • Process of arranging warp in stretched , parallel position . • Dyed /undyed yarns Stretched, parallel yarns Sectional Warping Single End Warping Warping
Drawing • Warped yarn is passed through the appropriate eye of the heddles of a harness. • A harness performs the shedding operations. • The series of wires that are called heddles. • The heddles have openings like eyes of needles. • Warped yarns Drawn yarns Image source – Internet 15
Weaving •Process interlacement of two sets of yarns, the warp and the weft. •Spun dyed /undyed yarn Dyed /undyed linen fabric Image source – Internet Image source – Internet Image source – Internet 16
17 Projectile Loom Sulzer Ruti P7200 Rapier Loom Sulzer Ruti G6200 Picanol Optimax • RPM of looms – in the range of 250 to 400 • Widths attained – 64” & 111” • Weft Insertion rate = 72-80 picks per minute • Wastage – 2 meters per beam Weaving
FabricProcessing PieceDyed YarnDyed FABRICS SINGEING WASHING RANGE ROTORMAT MACHINE FABRIC SINGEING + DESIZING CONT. BLEACHING RANGE STENTER COLOR PAD (24 hr Rotation) WASHING RANGE WHITE FABRICS SINGEING CONT. BLEACHING RANGE WhiteFabric STENTER CALENDERING MACHINE SANFORIZING FOLDING 18
FabricProcessingMachine SINGEING Gas used – LPG WASHING RANGE CHAMBER DETAILS 1. Chamber 1 &2: water wash 2. 3rd chamber: soap wash 3. Chamber 4 & 5 : water wash 4. 6th chamber: neutralization with acetic acid Image source – Internet Image source – Internet 19
20 Fabric Processing Machine CONTINOUS BLEACHING RANGE - Desizing, scouring and bleaching CHAMBER DETAILS: Chamber 1 &2: hot water (90°c) Chamber 3: peroxide, caustic soda, stabilizer ,wetting agent wash Chamber 4 : steamed at 99°c Chamber 5: hot water (100°c) wash + steam spray Chamber 6 & 7: hot water(90°c) wash Chamber 8: cold wash - neutralisation with acetic acid Image source – Internet Image source – Internet 20 ROTOMAT MACHINE • Is used for scouring • Inculcates soft look effects in fabrics • Fabrics are dry-treated at speed of 800/900 m/min
FabricProcessingMachine CALENDERING MACHINE • Smooth silky touch to the fabric. • Compress the fabric and reduce its thickness. • Reduce yarn slippage STENTER MACHINE • It is use for stretching or stentering fabrics. • Brings the length and width to pre-determined dimensions. • It is used for applying finishing chemicals and also to adjust shade variation Image source – Internet Image source – Internet 21
FabricProcessingMachine SANFORIZING MACHINE (Zero-Zero) • Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage • After sanforizing, the residual shrinkage of fabric may be zero. • So, this is called zero- zero process. FOLDING MACHINE Folding finished fabrics ready to be delivered to the warehouse section. Image source – Internet Image source – Internet 22
• Fabrics, for easier transportation, comes in the form of rolls or meter flat roll in export and production houses. This form of storage is more compact and sturdy making it easier for handling. • This process takes place when the fabric is set to our rolling department where it is checked by our inspectors, defected areas are marked by stickers and sent to our stitching department for final editing before production. 23 Fabric Rolling
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