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PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
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Crepeand corkscrewweaves

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Crepeand corkscrewweaves

  1. 1. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com CREPE WEAVES These weaves contain no twilling or other prominent effects. They give a cloth the appearance of being covered by minute spots or seeds in which the maximum float length is less than 3. An example of crepe weave is sponge weave. How to construct crepe weave Construction of Crepe Weave upon sateen bases Let us consider a crepe weave on 10 end regular satin base. Let the spot size is 3×3 and the spot be: As we see that in the spot there is a central element × and there are side elements o around it. Step 1: Construct a 10 × 10 grid and place the central element × in satin base. Step 2 : Complete the design by putting side elements around the central element. Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  2. 2. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Crepe weave is completed. Crepe weaves produced by reversing principle In such cases a small unit weave is first made on any suitable number of ends and picks. Let us denote our weave with the help of this diagram: Now if we rotate the weave to 90 degrees clockwise what we get will be: Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  3. 3. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com We can combine these two weaves to get a nice crepe effect: Crepe weaves produced by insertion of one weave over another. This method of construction of crepe weaves consists of inserting two different weaves one over the other. In order to produce an irregular effect, at least one of the weaves should be irregular in construction. How to constuct crepe by this method Take two irregular weaves, A and B. Here A is an 8-thread regular sateen derivative and B is the satinette. Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  4. 4. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com At C, the marks of both A and B are combined in the same design to produce a crepe effect: Creape Weave produced by combinations of a floating weave with plain threads In this system of constructing crepe weaves, threads that work plain are combined with threads of a floating weave which are arranged in sateen order. How to create crepe with this method Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  5. 5. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Let us take a 8x8 arrangement in which plain marks are indicated on the odd ends as shown by the dots (o) and sateen marks on alternate picks of the ends ends, as shown by the crosses (x) Marks(#) are then added to the sateen base marks in an order which fits with the plain weave as shown in the following figure: This completes the crepe weave CORKSCREW WEAVE These are really twilled ribs. In their simplest form they produce either a warp or a weft surface. They are most regular in construction when the repeat contains an odd number of threads. WARP CORKSCREW WEAVE Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  6. 6. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com In such weaves the face is dominated by warp. Let us make a warp corkscrew weave on 7 threads. Ordinary weaves of this class are constructed on a sateen base counting 2 outwards. Step 1 : Make a 7×7 grid and fill it with satin base counting 2 outwards. Step 2 : Now add marks vertically to each satin base such that number of filled squares vertically are one more than no of blank spaces, eg as there are 7 spaces in the first column, so fill vertically so that there are 4 filled spaces and 3 bank spaces. Similarly we can make corkscrew weave on 9 and 11 threads. To make warp corkscrew weave on even no of ends, say 8 threads, some modification of the method is necessary. Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  7. 7. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Step 1: Make an 16×8 grid and fill it with sateen base counting 2 outwards. Step 2 : Run a second line of marks-indicated by dots on even vertical spaces, starting from centre. Step 3: Complete the design by arranging two more marks than blanks. Thus in this case in one column there will be 5 filled square and 3 blanks as: Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  8. 8. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Similarly we can make weft cork screw weave. The following example gives a weft corkscrew weave on 7-end sateen. The base is represented by: And the final design is as follows. Note that here a mark represents weft up. Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  9. 9. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com The above was an example of weft corkscrew weave. Similarly we can produce warp cork screw weave. Below is an example of such weave: Modified Warp Corkscrew Weave Sometimes in order to make the weaves firmer, the floats on the back are stitched as in the figure below: Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  10. 10. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Here the (#) mark indicate the stitching at the back. Here the float on the face is not interfered whereas on the back the threads weave in the plain order. Special Corkscrew Weaves A modification in the method of constructing weave is necessary when constructing corkscrew weaves which repeat on an even number of threads. Let us take a warp corkscrew weave on 8 shafts. To construct the weave, we proceed as follows: 1. First decide the repeat size. The repeat is twice as many number of ends as picks. Thus the repeat is 16x8. Now on odd vertical spaces , a base line of marks, as shown by the crosses, is inserted and a second line- indicated by # - is run in on the even vertical spaces. Start the second line of marks from as near to the centre of picks as possible. This is shown in the figure given: Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  11. 11. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Now complete the design by arranging each vertical space ( in case of warp corkscrew) with two more marks(o) than blanks( or with the marks and blanks equal). Corkscrew Weave for the Worsted Fabric The standard 13-shaft warp corkscrew, is based on a thirteen thread sateen, counting 4 outwards. Marks(o) are added to the base marks(X) in the order of add 4, miss2. Very flat twill lines are formed in the cloth.Such type ofweave is shown as follows: Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer

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