Sambalpuri saree - designs, patterns and making process of the sari

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek
SAMBALPURI
SARI
KUNTAMALLA SUJATHA GUDIMALLA PRASHANTHI
Asst Prof., Dept of Sericulture Dept of Zoology,
Kakatiya University, Lal Bahadur College,
Hanamkonda, Warangal Warangal.
MADICHETTY SAI ABHISHEK
Project officer, BDL, Hyderabad.

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek
A sambalpuri sari is traditionally hand woven, which takes the name from the tribal
belt of Sambalpur in Odisha were these saris originated wherein the warp and the weft are
reflecting an ancient tie and dye art called bandhakala also known as Sambalpuri ikkat. It
is produced in Sambalpur, Balangir, Bargarh, Boudh and Sonepur districts of Odisha,
India.
The saree is made from cotton, silk & tasar silk woven on a handloom consisting of
un-stiched cloth ranging from 4 – 9 meters that is draped mostly by the Meher and Golia
tribes hailing from Western Odisha.

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek
The most common motifs includes the Shanka (conch), Chakra (wheel) and Bhula
(flower) which have deep symbolism with the native Odisha color like red, green, black,
blue and yellow which represent the culture along with the God of the region Puri Jagannath
face color.
The unique method of tie and dye known as bandha is used to weave the sambalpuri
saree. The process involves preparation of the yarn tying and dyeing, drying it and finally
weaving the master piece. The entire process takes eight days to make one sambalpuri saree
with the intricate design taking up to six months. The varieties include Sonepuri, Saptapav
(Pasapalli), Sachipar, Udiaan-taraa, Panchavati, Bomkai, Barpalli, Parade and Baptaa saris.

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek
In 1980s and 90s they became popular across India after this sari was worn by late
Prime Minister, Smt. Indira Gandhi. Most of the saris were named after the place of origin
and are popularly known as Pata.
Traditionally the craftsman created Baandhas with images of flora or fauna or with
geometrical patterns. But now landscape and flower pods are being included. The unique
feature of this sari is that the designs are reflected on both the sides of the sari. If the fabric
is once dyed it cannot be bleached into another color.

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek
In the year 1192 AD this sambalpur
art migrated to western Odisha after the fall
of chouhan empire at the hands of
Mughals.
The demand for this saree is limited,
the cost of fine cotton sari ranges from
2000 – 5000 while a silk sari cost is more
than 1,50,000 due to labour, intensive and
time consuming nature required for
production of this sari.

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek
Today the baandha fabric is popular known by its geographical and cultural name
called Sambalpur due to the efforts by Radhashyam Meher and Padmashree Kailash
Chandra Meher, Padmashree Kunja Bihari Meher, Padmashree Krutharth Acharya and
handloom technologist Mr. Ramakrishna Meher.
Radhashyam Meher played active role in cooperative movement and organized meher
art fabric cooperative society. He was member of all India Board till his death.

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Kuntamalla Sujatha, G. Prashanthi & M. Sai
Abhishek