1. HISTORY OF JAMDANI
TEXTILE
During Mughal emperor Jahangir's regime (1605-1627), the
plain Jamdani muslin was decorated with numerous floral
designs. The emperor was seen wearing a Jamdani swatch
around his waist on many occasions. Jamdani fabric finds
fleeting mentions in pieces of literature as ancient as
Arthashastra (3rd cent. BC) and also occupies space in accounts
of travelers & traders from China, Arabia, and Italy who noted
its unparalleled finesse.
Jamdani is a word of Farsi origin, in Farsi, the word ‘jam’
means Flower, and ‘Dani’ refers to the vase. The Mughals chose
this name because, at that time, Farsi was their court language.
jamdani was originally known as Dhakai Jamdani or simply as
Dhakai and has its roots in Sonargaon (situated in present
Narayangang). Jamdani is a handloom woven fabric made of
cotton, famously known as Muslin. And it became popular for its
intricate design and special weaving technique. https://anuprerna.com/crafts/jamdani
2. Dhaka: The Home of Jamdani
In the early 20th century, the home of this craft began
shifting from Sonargaon to Rupganj. The bank of
Shitalakkhya River that was also a part of Dhaka in the
past still remains as a popular location for Jamdani
craftsmen.
3. The Weaving of Dreams
The everyday life and dreams of the Jamdani weavers
revolve around their craft. Traditional weaving is an art
made of passion, hooks, and threads. Motifs are woven
on the loom, typically in grey and white. There is a
particular number of threads used to perfectly bring a
design to life. Muslin is made of at least 300 counts of
thread, while Jamdani is made of 40 to 120 counts of
thread.
4. The weavers collect threads from their local shops. It
creates a small-scale market network among the weavers,
service providers, and producers.
Dyers use different types of colors to contrast the threads.
The choice of color depends on the design and motifs.
The weavers have mastered Jamdani motifs.
5. The
Loom
During the weaving process, a
small shuttle of thread called
‘Maku’ is passed through the
weft. Two weavers sit alongside
each other at the loom and add
every discontinuous
supplementary weft motifs
separately by hand using a tool
called ‘Kandul’. They interlace
the supplementary weft threads
into the warp with fine bamboo
sticks in a zigzag manner using
individual spool of thread.
6. The local weavers use bamboo in making the whole structure of
the loom; it is locally called “tant”. Wood, jute, or plastic can also
be used to make a loom.
7. Weavers set up looms inside a house according to space availability and
economic capacity. For poor families that usually have only one living room,
their looms are set up in it, too
8. Two weavers can use one loom at the same time to make
a saree.
10. THE TECHNIQUE OF JAMDANI WEAVE
The jamdani weave is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are
produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads
together.
The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft with thicker threads adds
intricate patterns to it. Each one of the motif designs is handwoven into the muslin using a single
continuous extra weft yarn.
The result is a complex mix of different patterns that appear to float on the surface of the Jamdani
fabric.
The pattern is not sketched or outlined on the fabric but is drawn on graph paper and placed
underneath the warp. Often a mixture of cotton and gold thread was used. Usually, the Jamdani motifs
are geometric in their silhouette
https://anuprerna.com/crafts/jamdani
11. Different Designs Of
Jamdani
The traditional art of Jamdani weaving is one that has been around for centuries, and the
designs that can be created with this type of weaving are truly unique and beautiful. There are
many different designs today weavers develop, and each one is sure to impress. These are some
design patterns of traditionally woven Jamdani-
•Panna Hazar
•Balihar
•Batpata
•Karla
•Jal
•Butidar
•Jalpar
•Tercha
•Pansi
•Mayurpankhi
•Dubli
•Katihar
•Kalkapar
•Duria etc.
16. EVOLUTION OF
JAMDANI
Traditionally, the use of Jamdani was limited to
mainly sarees and was, therefore, always woven into a
fine muslin fabric.
However, with modernization, the craft has evolved
and been adapted to modern silhouettes. Today
Jamdani comes in higher gsm which allows the wider
application to western styles.
Besides this, Jamdani motif design however has
evolved from traditional designs to more contemporary
ones. Over time, these ancient motifs have become
simplified. Today we can see Jamdani fabrics with
minimalistic modern motif designs in abstract
geometric shapes along with varying sizes and colours,
giving the fabric a modern appeal.
25. Pros & Cons of Jamdani
1. Lightweight & airy:
This is a type of fabric that is lightweight and airy. It is perfect for summer weather, allowing air to
circulate and keeping you cool.
2. Versatile:
Jamdani sarees are soo versatile that can be worn by any shaped woman. It is perfect for any special
occasion and long-distance journeys.
3. High-quality cotton thread:
Fine count Jamdani is made of high-quality cotton thread which is fully handmade. The thread is
spun from the finest quality cotton, which gives the fabric a soft feel and a luxurious look.
4. Thin and Soft:
Jamdani is a thin and soft fabric that is perfect for any weather. It is breathable, making it a great
choice for hot weather.
5. Eye-catching motifs
Jamdanis have a great floral or ornamental motif which makes them so eye-catchy. The motifs make
it so classy that you wear it on any occasion.
26. 6. Perfect for any occasion:
It is perfect for any occasion! Whether you’re dressing up for a wedding event or just need
office, Jamdani will always look great. With its intricate designs and beautiful colors, it is sure to
7. Smooth finish
Jamdani has a very smooth finish, which makes it feel luxurious and soft to the touch. With that,
classy.
8. Comfortable to wear
It is very comfortable to wear. It is made from cotton and is known for its softness and durability.
9. Sustainable
You can easily keep it in your collection for years and it will be as it was kept. I have a couple of
still look new.
In short, buy it! You will not regret it.
27. Cons:
1. Expensive
Authentic jamdanis are very expensive, and can often cost several hundred dollars. They are made with high-quality yarn, and the
process of making them is very time-consuming.
2. Possibility of fake
The possibility of fake Jamdani textiles is high, as the fabric is intricate and expensive. This is a hand-woven fabric from Bangladesh,
made from cotton or silk. Few are trying to make it into the machine! Though they are not successful, they are printing it on low-quality
fabric and selling those by the name of Jamdani.
3. Time-Consuming
Jamdani weaving is so time-consuming that it takes 3 months to 1 year to weave a Saree. It takes at least 10 months to weave a saree
from the weaving of raw cotton to the finished product. It is said that in the past even kings and other rich people used to wear jamdani
saris.
4. Fragile
As we have already come to know that monsoon is the perfect time to weave Jamdani. While buying Jamdani we obviously never know
if it has been woven in the right season. That’s why sometimes when Jamdani is kept in the closet for a long time, the fabric may break.
