Applique is a technique where pieces of fabric are sewn on to a base fabric to create patterns or images. Pipli, India is well known for its intricate applique work, traditionally used to decorate canopies, quilts, and chariot covers. Modern applique artisans in Pipli and other parts of Orissa and India experiment with new fabrics, colors, and applique techniques to produce a variety of decorative home goods and clothing that have growing popularity as tourist souvenirs and inspirations for designers.

2. Appliqué comes from the French word “appliquer”, which means to
“put on”. In appliqué, one piece of fabric is placed over a base layer and
is sewn in place. Another technique is the reverse appliqué, in which
one layer of fabric is placed on another layer, and a shape is cut out
from the top layer, exposing the lower layer. These two are then neatly
stitched together.

3. It is also believed that applique work made its way into western India either from Europe or
Arabia in the Middle East through trade contacts. In the 19th century, the Kathis, an agro-
pastoral community of the Kathiawar region of Gujarat and their Muslim associates, the
Molesalaams, or the land owning community are known to have produced intricate applique
work. Some of the surviving specimens show a wide representation of stylized human and
animal figures in cotton and silk cloths. In the neighbouring state Rajasthan, the Oswal Banias
have a similar tradition of stitching large applique canopies with a range of panels or squares
in different color combinations, for marriages. The Rajputs, Satwaras and various other cattle-
breeding communities also produce similar applique art to enhance the beauty of their
chandarvo (canopies), dharaniyo (quilt covers), among other things. In the Eastern part of the
country, Pipli a small city near Bhubaneswar has the distinction of providing a special artistic
name and fame to the creativity involved in the process of Applique work and the products
produced. Pipli and other parts of the Puri and Khurda district of Orissa are famous for the
intricate and artistic applique work. Now in India, the artisans of the state like Rajasthan,
Gujarat, Bihar and Orissa are practicing the craft. In Gujarat and Rajasthan Kathis, Molesalem,
Satwara, Meher, Mahojan and Rabri caste produces canopies, wall hangings, door curtains,
bullock, chariot and camel covers etc by using applique technique. Quilting on applique fabric
called Ralli is the uniqueness of the artisans of Rajasthan. Some artisans of Tanjore in Tamil
Nadu were also producing epical hanging with the help of applique technique.

8. Pipli is located at 20.12°N 85.83°E
It has an average elevation of
25 metres (82 feet).
It is thirty-five kilometres from Puri,
at the junction
where the Konark road branches from
the
Bhubaneswar to Puri road.

10. However, the appliqué work in its colourful best is most prominent
in the cloth covers of the three chariots of the presiding deities in
which they travel every year during the Ratha Yatra or Car Festival.
As per tradition, the colour scheme of the three covers is
predetermined, green and red for the chariot of Balabhadra, black
and red for that of Subhadra and yellow and red for Lord
Jagannath’s chariot

12. This beautiful craft is
usually practiced on
dazzling red, purple, black,
yellow, green and white
fabric.

15. PROCESS……..

17. PATTERN……………………

18. While there has been very little change in the use of motifs, there is a trend
towards greater experimentation in colour for non ceremonial items such
as bags, cushion covers, bed sheets etc. Appliqué items are also being used
in combination with other crafts to produce composite products. An
interesting new use is the superimposition of appliqué on grass mats and
used as partitions. .

19. The stitching process varies from item to item and come under six broad categories,
namely,
(1) bakhia,
(2) taropa,
(3) ganthi,
(4) chikana,
(5) button-hole and
(6) ruching.
Bakhia: It is the most common stitch and is often referred to
as shadow work. It is of two types:
(a) Ulta Bakhia , : Stem stitch - the floats lie on the reverse
of the fabric underneath the motif. The simplified bakhia is
Herringbone stitch.
(b) Sidhi Bakhia: Satin stitch with criss-crossing of individual
threads. The floats of thread lie on the surface of the fabric..

20. Taropa, a simple hemming, slip or invisible stitch, used to sew
the applique pieces on the main ground cloth.
Ganthi, the blanket or button hole stitch used to embroider the
motifs and to attach the small mirrors.
Chikan, the chain stitch predominantly used in applique work
not only decorative but functional too.
Ruching stitch used for gathering up of a cloth strip to make
an applique motif.

21. Sometimes embroidered patterns are also used and in a few items mirror work is also
incorporated.
The layout of various motifs and patterns vary according to the shape of the piece.
The canopy has a large centre piece which may be a square. This centre piece is then bounded
by several borders of different widths, one outside the other, till the edge is reached. In the
umbrella and Chhati the inner field is arranged in circles, each circle having patches of one motif
placed side by side. Patterns are laid in the same way as the shape of the Tarasa, with a large
motif or two placed at the centre.
The layout for covers for horses consists of a series of
concentric strips in the portion which covers the neck,
each strip having patches of one motif, while the
portions which fall on either side of the body are
plain, having border all round with or without a motif
at the centre of the plain field.

23. Superimposition of colored cloths on grey marking cloth is quite common
today as the use of cloth of all colors and hues. Similarly, with the changing
times the craft has also adopted itself to the needs of modern man. Among
the more popular applique items today are garden umbrellas, a variant of
chhati with wooden or aluminum stands, shoulder bags, ladies hand bags,
wall hangings, lamp shades, bed covers, pillow covers, letter pouches, etc.
Applique items are also being used in combination with other handicrafts to
produce composite products. An interesting use is the superimposition of
applique on grass mats and used as partitions. Though earlier the art form
was restricted to darji caste, today it is practiced by non-caste members,
notably by some young Muslim boys. Unlike many other handicrafts, applique
items are attractive artifacts of daily use apart from being decorative. They are
also comparatively cheaper.

24. Today, applique finds expressions in a wide variety of home
decor items. From wall-hangings and awnings to Kundini -
worked decorative pieces, the range of applique items available
nowadays is pretty exhaustive. One can even choose from a
variety of mirror-worked appliqué dresses and skirts for a
perfect evening do. Nothing can match the vibrancy of a
applique worked handbag on a private function with sequins
sewn on it. Appliqué bags and jholas are also becoming quite a
rage these days on campuses.

25. The choice of applique items of Pipli origin for a prospective buyer does not end
here. Manufacturers in Pipli and Puri are nowadays flooded with offers from star-
rated hotels and resorts to supply applique made side walls and garden umbrellas.
Upcoming designers are also considering it a new way to express their creative
visions. Accordingly, the fabric used for this typical patchwork has undergone a
refreshing change. It is no more the same thick cotton base that is used to
elaborate a certain theme; now experimentation is done with fabrics as varied as
velvet, satin and Georgette.

26. Popularity of applique items of Pipli is clearly on the rise. Rathayatra or no
Rathayatra- applique saleables of Pipli are now regarded as a major crowd-
puller in Puri. Tourists thronging this beach city from all over India and the world
find applique art absolutely entrancing, and they make it point to buy a thing or
two of this amazing work of art to add a dash of color either to their wardrobe or
to a dull nook back at home. This has been augmenting the demand for
applique items of Pipli to a large scale over the years.

27. Applique work of Pipli is now a much sought after art of embroidery. Decorative items
made of it are colorful, yet not jazzy. They help make a statement when put up at the
right place or accessorized properly. The most interesting fact about applique items of
Pipli are, unlike many other decorative artifacts of daily use, they are not overtly
expensive.

28. APPLICATION OF PIPLI WORK
OF ORISSA
Many designers gets inspiration from this patch
work style of pipli and designs interesting
garments

33. J.Augur Design 2010 Spring Patchwork Bag
Collection

36. • DATA
- ‘ Applique craft of Orissa-study of contemporary Textile crafts of
India '
--Mr. B.C. Mohanty
- www.google.com
-www.bing.com
-www.fullorissa.com
• IMAGE
Source--www.artbeautysociety.wordpress.com
--www.google.com