Osborne House Horticultural Diary by Giulio Veronese

The Professional Gardeners’ Guild
Three Years Traineeship in Horticultural Practices
HORTICULTURAL DIARY
on Osborne House
by Giulio Veronese
Period of traineeship
2011 – 2014

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© Giulio Veronese
Printed: April 2014, 1 Highgrove Cottages.
All photographs and pictures used in this report are by Giulio Veronese.

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[…] and I,
partly forester, partly builder,
partly farmer and partly gardener,
expect to be a good deal upon my legs
and in the open air.
Prince Albert

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Contents
Diary
October
November
December
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
9
21
41
56
72
87
106
115
137
148
165
Appendices
Acknowledgments 203
Ten and a Half Months at Osborne House
Osborne House Family Tree
Bedding Schemes (2012)
Spring Bedding
Summer Bedding
Walled Garden Annual Bed (West Block)
Machinery Vibration Information
Osborne House Key Dates
Plant List
183
185
187
187
189
191
193
194
197

9
October
Monday 17th
October
Cloudy day with sunny intervals. Some light rain at the end of the afternoon.
Temperatures: min 7 °C / max 16 °C.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Working on the new spring bedding in the Top Terraces, particularly in the diamond beds and the
smaller beds. Stages are: 1) measurement and design, 2) soil preparation, 3) planting, 4) tidying up.
For the measurements bamboo sticks, trowels and feet are used. All the measurements are double-checked and
also the visual alignments. Trowel is without doubt the most important tool for bedding. It is used for taking the
measurements between the plants and/or the edges and has to be handled with confidence and speed.
After having set the planting scheme, we crumble and level the soil with spades and then plant pansies (Viola
tricolor hortensis) and standard bays (Laurus nobilis). The bays comes from our nursery, the pansies have been
bought in plugs. Varieties are “Autumn Blaze”, Orange Blotch”, “Primrose”.
Today I have a first, crash course on the use of the trowel. I am also told that, as a rule of thumb, it is better to
plant bedding plants deeper rather than higher. This is for giving them more stability, especially in exposed
areas, such as certain corners of the Top Terrace.
Observations: In the afternoon I have an induction on the use of the English Heritage Daily Vibration Log
Book. This is a personal record of the number of vibrations while using machinery, any member of the team
being allowed to reach 400 max points per day. All the machineries have an inventory number and are checked
and tested for vibration yearly.
To record the vibration is important in order to minimize the risk of the Vibration white finger (also known
as hand-arm vibration syndrome or dead finger), which is an industrial injury triggered by continuous use of
vibrating hand-held machinery. This is a disorder that affects nerves, joints, muscles, blood vessels or
connective tissues of the hand and forearm:
Tingling 'whiteness' or numbness in the fingers (blood vessels and nerves affected): This may not be noticeable
at the end of a working day, and in mild cases may affect only the tips of the fingers. As the condition becomes
more severe, the whole finger down to the knuckles may become white. Feeling may also be lost.
Fingers change colour (blood vessels affected): With continued exposure the person may suffer periodic attacks
in which the fingers change colour when exposed to the cold. Initially the fingers rapidly become pale and
feeling is lost. This phase is followed by an intense red flush (sometimes preceded by a dusky bluish phase)
signaling the return of blood circulation to the fingers and is usually accompanied by uncomfortable throbbing.
Loss of manual dexterity (nerves and muscles affected): In more severe forms, attacks may occur frequently in
cold weather, not only at work, but during leisure activities, such as gardening, car washing or even watching
outdoor sports and may last up to an hour causing considerable pain and loss of manual dexterity and reduced
grip strength.
In extreme cases, the sufferer may lose fingers. The effects are cumulative. When symptoms first appear, they
may disappear after a short time. If exposure to vibration continues over months or years, the symptoms can
worsen and become permanent.
English Heritage Daily Vibration Log Book cover and inside page

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Tuesday 18th
October
Cloudy, windy.
Rainfalls: 9.0 mls.
Practical: First part of the morning (up the visitors opening time), I use the a wheeled leaf collector all along
the Main Avenue, in order to clear and make presentable the road for the public. We work in team of two, the
first using a wheeled leaf blower and the second following with the leaf collector and clearing the leaves that
remained on the floor. Both the machinery are Billy Goat made.
Then I join the rest of the team and continue the planting of the new spring bedding in the Top Terrace. First of
all we need to dig out some of the plants from the previous planting scheme (summer bedding). They are Salvia
farinacea “White”, Coleus “Scarlet Ribbon” and Iresine brillantissima. Then we can plant the wallflowers
(Erysimum sp.), which have been just delivered this morning.
Observations: I keep a nice Solenostemon specimen from the crop down of the Top Terrace beds and pot it up
for my bedroom at home.
Solenostemon is a genus of perennial plants in the Lamiaceae family, native to tropical Africa, Asia, Australia,
the East Indies, the Malay Archipelago, and the Philippines. It is commonly known as painted nettle or flame
nettle. In the UK it can be grown outside as a half-hardy annual or as an indoor plant. The variously shaped
leaves of these popular bedding plants typically combine several colors, such as chartreuse, rust, cream, purple-
black, white and red (somewhat resembling the unrelated Caladium). Some cultivars sport almost all of these
colors combined. The darker the red in the leaf, the more sun the plant will tolerate. Coleus blooms in summer,
but the blue to white nettle-like flowers are unremarkable and tend to detract visually from the impact of the
foliage.
Solenostemon is commonly known in the garden as Coleus, a name which derives from an earlier classification
under the genus name Coleus, which is currently treated as two: with species included in either the
genus Solenostemon or in another genus, Plectranthus.
Most of the cultivars are derived from Solenostemon scutellarioides. New cultivars with varieties of colors are
constantly being made. The following hybrid cultivars have gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of
Garden Merit. “Crimson Ruffles” , “Lord Falmouth”, “Picturatus”, “Pineapple Beauty”, “Pineapplette”, “Royal
Scot”, “Walter Turner”, “Wisley Tapestry”.
Delivered stock of wallflowers Solenostemon

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Wednesday 19th
October
Sunny and bright. Few clouds.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Today we receive a huge delivery of flowering bulbs (over 40.000) for the formal bedding in the
terraces. Possible leftovers will be planted in other areas within the Pleasure Grounds (e.g. magnolia bed, beds
around the lodge, etc). The delivery consists basically in varieties of tulips, daffodils and hyacinths.
Tulipa cultivars are “Ballerina”, “West Point”, “Mona Lisa”, “Olympic Flame”, “Apeldoorn Elite”, “William of
Orange”, “Lilyfire”, “Cistula”, “David Teniers”, “Queen of Marvel”. Narcissus cultivars are “St. Patrick’s
Day”, “Carbineer”, “Pencrebar”, “Grande Soleil d’Or”. Only a single variety of Hyacinthus is used. This is
“City of Haarlem”.
Remarkably, they all are old varieties, in accordance with the historic way of bedding at Osborne House.
In the afternoon I work with Nigel by the Lodge. We dig out Agapanthus africanus, trim back Teucrium
lucidrys, plant pansies and hyacinths in the beds around the Lodge.
Teucrium x lucidrys (Hedge Germander) is a new entry for me and indeed quite a remarkable plant. It was
introduced at Osborne House by the previous head gardener Debs Goodenough and is now still used as for low
hedges around the Lodge and along some borders in the Pleasure Grounds.
Teucrium x lucidrys is a cross between Wall Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) and Sage-leaved Germander
(Teucrium lucidum) and like all hybrids can only be propagated by cuttings. Hedge Germander is slightly higher
and more upright than Wall Germander and has darker and glossier leaves and brighter flowers.
Ideal for a Mediterranean-type garden or kitchen garden featuring drought-resistant plants, it needs a sunny,
sheltered site and tolerates poor soil conditions. Cut back after flowering to stop it getting straggly.
Observations: Alen tell me about the constant use we do of Bidens ferulifolia, a pretty, yellow-flowering plant
with a pendant habit. In Osborne, we often combine Bidens ferulifolia with the violet-flowering Verbena rigida.
The jointing of these two plants really gives a striking effect. Having the same type of creeping habit,
Tradescantia pallida is another plant good for breaking the lines in hard landscaping situation. I am also told on
the Victorian passion for plants with broad foliage, such as many ferns and exotics. This fashion is still reflected
in the plantings at Osborne House.
I become aware that the irrigation is carried out both manually and automatically overnight, depending to the
areas and the weather conditions. I also get familiarized with the composting process: there are three different
skips in the main yard, each one for different type of rubbish (compostable stuff, woody bits and wood chips,
things to burn).
Nigel tells me about his love for the autumn season and also teaches me the English expressions “ground work”
and “sow for rib” and their meaning. He also teaches me a better way to propagate by division, using to forks
instead than one spade as I used to do. This system is especially good for rhizomatous plants and runners, as
avoid harming too much the root system.
Finally at home, in the evening I find out and translate the célèbre Wordshorth’s poem about daffodils “I
wandered lonely as a cloud”.
Teucrium lucidrys Bidens ferulifolia

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Thursday 20th
October
Nice, sunny day.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Undertaking the bulb planting of the smaller beds in the top terraces for the all day.
We plant Tulipa “Ballerina” and Hyacinthus “Carabinier”. It’s a real back-breaking experience but a real
satisfaction as well to see many of the bulbs planted in the beds.
Observations: Today I have a first induction about the John Deere tractor daily routine maintenance.
I am also told where all the thermometers are and about the greenhouse duties in springtime and summer.
At the end of the day I have a chat about squirrels in the UK. The red squirrel is classed as a native species to
the UK. On the other hand, the grey squirrel is an invasive non-native species in the UK, introduced to at
various locations since the 19th Century. They were first introduced in 1876 by the Victorians, who regarded
the grey squirrel as an exotic species.
The spread of grey squirrels is the main threat to red squirrel survival and the main reason for their catastrophic
decline in Britain. Grey squirrels compete more successfully than red squirrels for food and habitat, they are
larger and more robust, and can digest seeds with high tannin content, such as acorns, more efficiently. This
means grey squirrels can access a more abundant food supply than red squirrels. As a result, the arrival of grey
squirrels in an area occupied by red squirrels tends to cause reduced red squirrel breeding and survival rates
leading to a gradual decline in their numbers. Grey squirrels can also carry squirrelpox virus (SQPV), which
causes severe clinical disease and mortality in red squirrels without causing any symptoms in the grey carriers.
Red squirrel habitats are now confined in Scotland, certain regions in Northern Wales and in the Isle of Wight.
One of the two John Deere small tractors at Osborne House Min Max Thermometer in the nursery
Change of red squirrel distribution in the UK since 1945 (internet database)

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Friday 21st
October
Another bright and sunny day. My first week in Osborne has gone without a drop of rain.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Graveling the vases in the upper and lower terraces and also generously watering them. I use Cornish
grit, which is highly ornamental as well as good for suppressing weeds.
After lunch Alen brings me up to the Flag Tower, so that I can have an overlook of the gardens and
surroundings. This is a good opportunity to see the state of the bedding, which is now not too far from being
finished.
In the afternoon I move to the Pleasure Grounds and so carry on digging throughout the magnolia beds. The
planting of the circular magnolia beds will follow straight forward the one in the Terraces, as we are going to
use here the plants and bulbs which will remain from the main bedding.
Observations: While working on the magnolia beds, I can appreciate the selection of the perennials in the
herbaceous border of the Pleasure Grounds just outside the Walled Garden. Their flowering is gone now but I
can still recognise Romneya coulteri (Tree Poppy), Macleaya cordata (Plume Poppy), Echium pininana (Tree
Echium), Buddleia davidii (Butterfly Tree), Buddleia globosa, Penstemon sp.
Phil tells me that penstemons are plants very easy to propagate. They respond very well to soft-wood cuttings.
We speak about Crinum x powellii, which is an exotic-looking plant not too often seen in the British gardens.
This is a cross between Crinum bulbispermum (Orange River Lily) and Crinum moorei (Natal Lily). It has large
fragrant bell-shaped flowers that are pale pink and held aloft on scapes that can be as much as 1.5m tall. It’s
foliage is lush and exuberant, with long strap-like leaves that can cover a large area as the plant clumps. It is
hardier than it is often given credit for and should be left undisturbed with a thick mulch. In the wild, the two
parent species usually grow with the long necks of their elongated bulb protruding above the surface and this is
the usual advice for planting them, however, it does not hurt them to be planted a little deeper and this is useful
winter protection along with a generous mulch in late autumn. Both parent species tend to grow in damper,
wetter soils along the edges of rivers and in the margins of swamps and bogs. This is a habitat that tends to
match the British weather and plants respond well to damper patches and regular watering in the summer
months. To ensure the bulbs don’t rot, however, it’s sensible to bed them in a little sharp sand or grit. They
enjoy full sun, plenty of space to expand into and a good rich soil that has enough depth for its large bulbs to
thrive in.
Slugs and snails are not be deterred by the toxic alkaloids in the leaves and the most critical time is just as the
new leaves are emerging. A little time taken to keep them under control pays dividends and gives the plants a
chance to establish. As the season progresses the large clumps of foliage tend to harbor the pesky mollusks and
regular patrols during wet weather are a good idea. Nigel defines Crinum as a “nest for slugs” and I can see
why, when looking through the leaves.
Crinum x powellii flowers and bulb

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Monday 24th
October
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Today it’s my first time ever planting bulbs of daffodils in a British garden. I’m felling quite excited
because I can feel this is quite an emblematic moment in the process of becoming a professional gardener.
We also plant garden varieties of Cheiranthus allionii (wallflowers), such as “Scarlet Bedder”, “Golden
Bedder”, “Ivory White”, and “Fire King”. They all are old-fashioned, Victorian cultivars.
Wallflower “Scarlet Bedder” Wallflower “Golden Bedder”
Wallflower “Ivory White” Wallflower “Fire King”
Imagines from internet database
Observations: The wallflowers in the terraces are Cheiranthus and not Erysimum as I first thought.
Erysimum is a genus that includes about 180 species, both popular garden plants and many wild forms. The
genus Cheiranthus is sometimes included herein whole or in part. Erysimum has recently ascribed to a
monogeneric cruciferous tribe, Erysimeae.
The commonly known Obedient Plant in the Pleasure Grounds is Physostegia virginiana. It has sometimes
referred as False Dragonhead. Unfortunately flowers are just past now but the seed caps still respond
“obediently” when twisted by hands.
Lime trees are widely planted throughout Osborne House avenues. However, many of my colleagues seem
whinging about this rather untidy tree, which leaves a big amount of leaves, twigs and branches on the floor in
this time of the here and constantly shooting new sprouts from the base of the trunk during the growing season.
A new suggestion for planting is the association between Muscari neglectum and Crocus species and cultivars.
Finally, I had some berry from the Strawberry Trees (Arbutus unedo) around the Pleasure Grounds. As an
Italian, I’m quite familiar already with this plant but it’s the first time for me trying the fruits. This plant flower
and fruit contemporarily. Other things are ready in the Walled Garden (carrots, chards and shallots). So, at the
end of the day, even if I’m still waiting for my first wage, I have no reasons to complain at all.

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Daffodil bulbs Arbutus unedo fruits
Tuesday 25th
October
Cloudy with sunny spells and some light drizzles.
Rainfalls: 10.0 mls.
Practical: Carrying on the bedding work in the Upper and Lower Terrace.
In the first part of the morning I dig out seven brugmansias (Brugmansia knightii).
Then I cultivate the beds by single digging and prepare them for the planting stage. Procedure consists in turning
right over the soil with a spade, crumbling the soil on the surface, always by using a spade, cleaning the stony
edge of the beds with the brush, and finilly raking out through the beds and collecting the rubbish. I can clearly
appreciate what huge difference makes to follow these steps at any time: if you clean the edge before raking
around, the beds look presentable and the rain can possibly finish washing up.
Then I need measure the centre of the beds. I use bamboo canes and footprints as guidelines. I plant in the right
in the center one standard holly (Ilex aquifolium) for each bed.
Observations: I come to know that the only base
dressing feed we use in the beds and borders at
Osborne House, is blood fish and bone meal (only for
summer bedding, if necessary).
BFB is a traditional fertiliser that is still favoured by
many gardeners and, because it is produced from
natural ingredients, is 100% organic. It provides all
the three major nutrients needed for strong, healthy
plants. Nitrogen encourages growth and rich green
foliage; slow release phosphate promotes vigorous
root development and the potash element helps
improve flower colour and the ripening of fruit and
vegetables. BFB can be applied prior to sowing or
planting and as required throughout the growing
season.
Apart from BFB, only the compost we produce
ourselves is used to fertilize and improve the beds and
borders soil at Osborne House.
Blood Fish and Bone organic fertiliser

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Wednesday 26th
October
Few showers in the morning, drier later.
Practical: Digging out cannas from the terraces and potting them in 60 litre pots for storage in the polytunnel.
In the afternoon I work for the first time in the Osborne House potting shed, preparing some cuttings of Salvia
ssp., Pelargonium “White Boar” and Myrtus communis.
I take semi-ripe cuttings, choosing healthy material that is free of pests and diseases and remove it with sharp,
clean tools. It should be a better practice to take these cutting in the morning to avoid wilting.
First I select the cuttings from this season’s growth and remove them using sharp secateurs. Then I prepare the
cuttings by trimming them to 10-15cm in length, cutting just below a leaf node. Next, remove the lowest leaves
and the soft tips. There are usually about four leaves remaining. I take several heel cutting (where the cutting is
pulled away with a piece of stem), especially for the salvias which take very well this type of cutting. Then I
insert the cuttings into suitably-sized containers filled with cuttings compost – 50 per cent free-draining potting
compost mixed with 50 per cent sharp sand or perlite. I water well and allow draining. Finally I place the
container of cuttings in the lower greenhouse, by the heated propagator.
I don’t use plastic bags or other storing facilities, as pot the cuttings up straight after. There is also no need to
use any hormone rooting powder, as all these plants take cuttings very well.
Pelargonium “White Boar” Salvia heel cutting
Observations: Myrtle (Myrtus communis) is a very important plant at Osborne House. It is in fact a royal
favourite, as every royal bouquet since 1840 has featured its fluffy white flowers.
Prince Albert's grandmother gave Queen Victoria a posy of myrtle during a visit to Gotha (as in the former royal
family surname, Saxe-Coburg-Gotha). Then she planted the myrtle from her bouquet in her garden at Osborne
House and a sprig has been sent from this garden to royal brides ever since.
Myrtus, with the common name myrtle, is a genus of flowering plants in the family Myrtaceae. It is the type
genus of the family Myrtaceae. The Myrtus genus has only two species: Myrtus communis (the common myrtle),
native to the Mediterranean region in southern Europe, and Myrtus nivellei (Saharan myrtle) native to North
Africa.
Myrtus communis is an evergreen shrub or small tree, growing to 5 metres tall. The leaf is entire, 3–5 cm long,
with a fragrant essential oil. The star-like flower has five petals and sepals, and numerous stamens. Petals
usually are white. The flower is pollinated by insects. The fruit is a round berry containing several seeds, most
commonly blue-black in colour. A variety with yellow-amber berries is also present. The seeds are dispersed
by birds that eat the berries.
Myrtus communis is widely cultivated as an ornamental plant for use as a shrub in gardens and parks. It is often
used as a hedge plant, with its small leaves shearing cleanly. When trimmed less frequently, it has numerous
flowers in late summer. It requires a long hot summer to produce its flowers, and protection from winter frosts.
The species and the subspecies M. communis spp. tarentina have gained the Royal Horticultural
Society's Award of Garden Merit.

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Head Gardener Toby Beasley and the Victorian myrtle Myrtus communis berries
Thursday 27th
October
Gloomy, some showers.
Practical: Second day working in the Potting Shed.
Jen and I transplant carry out some potting up of Pelargonium cv., Fuchsia cv., Tibouchina urvilleana, Euryops
pectinatus (Golden Daisy Bush).
I become aware that the two spans of Iron House (the long lead-on greenhouse enclosed in the Walled Garden)
are dedicated for the separate cultivation of tender plants from South America and Africa respectively. We try to
stay within this order, even if this is not always possible. In such respect, Jen tells me that salvia species are
mostly from Mexico, while pelargoniums are from South Africa.
Iron House, first span: display of plants from South America Iron House, second span: display of plants from Africa
Observations: Jens introduces me to Tibouchina urivilleana.
The several common names (Glory Bush, Pleroma, Lasiandra, Purple Glory Tree, Pricenss Flower), well
indicate the striking beauty of this plant.
This is a species of flowering plant in the family Melastomataceae, native to Brazil. Growing to 3–6 m tall by 2–
3 m wide, it is a sprawling evergreen shrub with longitudinally veined, dark green hairy leaves. Clusters of
brilliant purple flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, with black stamens, are borne throughout summer and autumn.
The specific epithet urvilleana commemorates the 19th century French explorer and botanist Jules Dumont
d'Urville.
With a minimum temperature of 3 °C, it does require some winter protection, and in temperate areas is often
grown in a conservatory. However, it can also be grown outside in a sunny, sheltered spot. It has gained
the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

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Beautiful Tibouchina urivilleana growing in her own climate (internet database)
Friday 28th
October
Bright in the morning, dull in the afternoon. Dry
Rainfalls: 2.0 mls.
Practical: Leaf clearance of the Main Avenue for the first part of the morning.
We work in a team of two, with the combined use of wheeled vacuum and blower. The vacuum goes first and
sucks the most of the leaves along the edges of the concrete road. The pedestrian blower follows and finish off
the job, giving a neat and tidy appearance to the paved avenue. We also use a rake to ease the job, especially
throughout the depressions of the path, where the floor is more likely to be still wet and the leaves tend to rot
down.
After the leaf clearance, we are back to the Terraces for the bedding. We need to dig over some beds and
prepare them for the actual plating. I follow the usual steps: first I spade in all the way along the borders, only
by making a “slit” with the spade, then dig the perimeters and finally dig progressively the center of the beds,
always walking behind.
In the afternoon I have an introduction about the use of the turf-float (or turf lifter).
Just like the edging shears, this is to me one those quintessentially British garden tools, which aren’t commonly
used in Italy as well as in the rest of the Continent.
Wheeled leaf blower Billy Goat Old-fashioned turf float (or turf lifter)

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Observations: There is a remarkable, green mat around the crossroad in the Pleasure Grounds.
This is Pachysandra terminalis (common names Japanese Pachysandra, Japanese Spurge), a species of
flowering plant in the Buxaceae family, native to Japan, Korea and China.
It is a slow-growing, spreading evergreen perennial growing to 10 cm tall by 60 cm broad, with alternate,
simple, glossy leaves, and creeping stems. The leaves may yellow in winter. When growing in a spreading mass
of many plants, a dense carpet is formed. The flowers are white, borne above the foliage. In temperate Northern
Hemisphere sites they appear late in the month of March and throughout the month of April. The plant is very
cold hardy. The specific epithet terminalis means “ending”, and refers to the clusters of leaves which appear at
the end of the short stems.
Pachysandra terminalis is cultivated as an ornamental plant, for use as a massed groundcover, low grouped
element, or accent plant in the ground. It is a suitable lower plant for container gardening, and shaded or
“northside” window boxes. It takes about three years to establish a solid groundcover in suitable climates, when
new plantings are spaced 15–30 cm apart. It spreads by new plants sprouting from the spreading root system.
The plant prefers a moist and well-drained soil that is both acidic and rich.
A humus amended loam (acidic pH) soil, with regular organic fertilizer applications and watering-rainfall is
optimal. However, the plant is tolerant of neutral to slightly alkaline pH soils, and to periodic dryness, especially
in humid and non-arid climates. It can be propagated by dividing and transplanting clumps, by rooting stem
cuttings, or by removing plantlets that have grown through the spread of roots from the main plant.
Numerous cultivars have been developed for garden use, of which “Variegata” has gained the Royal
Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Pachysandra terminalis foliage Pachysandra terminalis flower (internet database)
Monday 31st
October
White cloudy, mild.
Temperatures: min 14 °C / max16 °C.
Rainfalls: 3.1 mls.
Practical: Scarifying and mowing the small piece of lawn next the Pavilion Terrace.
I use a petrol rotary mower Hayter Harrier 48BBC. I work with Phil who tell me that, in order to have a luxury
lawn, you should scarify monthly in spring and in summer and consistently reduce the treatment later in autumn
and winter. However, scarifying is mainly influenced by grass type; this is going to dictate whether or not the
lawn is going to need scaryfing or dethatching. In the instance, a mainly rye grass lawn will need doing at some
time, while an ornamental or so-called “luxury lawn” full of the fine fescue grasses, need a gardener who do
love scarifying.
Raking is the other technique, greatly influenced by the amount of moss that grows in the lawn. This is more
important in wet, shady conditions or perhaps on a clay soil.
When mowing, it is also important to rotate the way of cutting in order to aerate the lawn and keep the soil light.
Today I cut the grass in diagonal stripes.

20
Scarifying the lawn Rotary mower Hayter Harrier
Observations: While walking back to the gardeners’ yard, I notice and appreciate a nice specimen of Fatsia
japonica completely invaded by pollinators. This is because the plant was in a sunny spot at the moment we
observed it. Plants which attract wildlife work better when in warmer positions.
This fatsia is now playing an important role in the garden as there are no many plants in flowers now to support
wildlife activities. Other plants are Mentha, Origanum and Viburnum species, Calluna vulgaris (common
heather) and Hedera helix (ivy).
Ivy in particularly, even if loathed by some, it is in fact one of the few plants for bees that aid survival of the late
foragers. The pollination of ivy then allows berries to develop, thus feeding a number of birds over the winter
months, as well as providing excellent shelter. Research has shown that trees with ivy growing up them
accommodate more wildlife than those without. Instead of assuming that all ivy must be cut away, it is better to
be pragmatic about it. Investigate first whether it is really causing any damage. Most healthy trees can withstand
at least some ivy growth before being cut back.
Fatsia japonica

21
November
Tuesday 1st
November
Very variable weather today. Bright, mild with some showers.
Rainfalls: 1.2 mls.
Practical: Cutting back Zantedeschia aethiopica in the beds by the entrance of the Cafeteria.
Zantedeschia is the well known Arum Lily and it’s important in Osborne because was one of Albert’s favorite
plants. I cut the stems right down to the ground, so giving a nice and tidy appearance to the beds.
After the Arum lilies, I keep working in the Lower Terrace. Together with Nigel, I dig the camellia beds and
also incorporate and fork in some well-rotted compost.
Zantedeschia aethiopica at Osborne House... …and in its native regions in Africa (internet database)
Observations: Zantedeschia aethiopica (common names Calla Lily, Arum Lily) is a species in the family
Araceae. It is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial plant, evergreen where rainfall and temperature are adequate,
deciduous where there is a dry season. Its preferred habitat is in streams and ponds or on the banks. It grows to
0.6–1 m tall, with large clumps of broad, arrow shaped dark green leaves up to 45 cm long.
The inflorescences are large, produced in spring, summer and autumn, with a pure white spathe up to 25 cm and
a yellow spadix up to 90 mm long.
It is native to southern and east Africa in Lesotho, South Africa, Swaziland, Mozambique, Malawi, Zambia,
Tanzania, Kenya and Madeira. It has been known to European horticulture since at least the 1660s and is one of
the world's most iconic and widely known plants. Carl Linnaeus described it in 1753 as Calla aethiopica and it
has been commonly known as the calla lily ever since. The species epithet aethiopica refers to the fact that it is
native to Africa. In 1826 Sprengel transferred it to a new genus which he called Zantedeschia. According to
Cythna Letty (1973), the name was probably given in honour of Giovanni Zantedeschi, an Italian botanist who
lived in the early 19th century.
It has become naturalised in Australia, particularly in Western Australia where it occurs in areas with high
periodical water tables and sandy soils, and has been classified as a toxic weed and pest.
Zantedeschia aethiopica contains calcium oxalate, and ingestion of the raw plant may cause a severe burning
sensation and swelling of lips, tongue, and throat; stomach pain and diarrhea may occur.

22
Wednesday 2nd
November
Overcast and rainy.
Rainfalls: 4.0 mls.
Practical: Keep going with the digging and feeding of the camellia beds in the Lower Terrace.
Observations: after the striking Fatsia observed on Monday, I ask Phil and Nigel (who are beekeepers) to tell
me about plants attractive for the wildlife, especially bees.
They tell me that important periods for the bees are the beginning of springtime and the end of autumn. After
having covered the winter period on Monday, today we go through the other seasons of the bees’ year. In late
winter and early spring, due to variations in climate and conditions, flowering times may differ from region to
region, and this may also affect foraging, as well as the distribution of different bee species. This is why this
time of the year is so critical for the wildlife. For example, Italian strains of honey bees will forage on crocus
flowers, but in very cool weather, may be deterred from foraging in the first place. Bumblebees, on the other
hand, with their furry coats, can be found foraging on cooler days. In fact, bumblebees are increasingly being
seen to forage during the cool winter months, meaning that late and early flowering plants are vital for them.
During the spring and summer, all types of bees (and other pollinating insects) are rearing their broods. A
typical honey bee colony may consist of around 50,000 to 60,000 workers, as well as larvae to feed. Bumblebee
colonies may be fragile - fewer than half survive, and solitary bees are in need of undisturbed nesting sites, as
food is gathered for storing in egg cells to feed newly developing larvae. Plenty of bee friendly plants are
therefore vital during the spring and summer to ensure survival of the colony.
During the late summer and autumn, the late-summer flowering plants will continue to feed late developing
broods, as well as those bees that have already developed into working adults. The controversial Himalayan
balsam (Impatiens balsamifera) is adored by pollinators for the ample nectar it provides. It is thought that it may
be invasive, but please see my page about native versus non native plants for further information. On the other
hand, Scorpion Weed (Phacelia ssp.) is also not native to the UK, but many do enjoy growing it in the garden. It
also attracts bees and other pollinators. Also Centaurea cyanus (Cornflower), Solidago virgaurea (European
Goldenrod), Lavandula ssp. (Lavender) and Scabiosa ssp. (Scabious) are all great bee attracting plants.
Some good bee-plants (internet database)

23
Thursday 3rd
November
Overcast and very wet.
Practical: Undertaking the maintenance of the eastern herbaceous border outside the Walled Garden.
It’s mainly about cutting down and tiding up, with some deadheading as well. Most of the flowers are now gone
and the long herbaceous borders look quite bare now.
I look after Solidago and Hemerocallis (Goldenrods) cultivars, Dierama pulcherrimum (Angel’s Fishing Rod),
Anaphalis margaritacea (Western Pearl Everlasting; it has variegated leaves and white, tiny blossom) and
Gaillarda aristata (Blanket Flower), which looks like a Rudbeckia of some sort and apparently is a very good
plant for drying flowers.
Observations: Anaphalis margaritacea (commonly
known as the Western Pearly Everlasting) is a new,
interesting plant. This is, is a flowering perennial
plant in the Asteraceae family.
Since it is the only North American species it is often
simply called pearly everlasting in the United States
and Canada. It is common throughout North America
excepting states that border the Gulf of Mexico.
However, it is also native to Asia and has been widely
introduced in Europe. It grows erect up to heights of
about 1.2 meters and has narrow, alternate leaves.
One salient feature is that the undersides of the leaves
are covered in tiny hairs, giving them a wooly feel
and appearance. The stems are dry and brittle. The
flower is small and whitish to yellowish and grows in
a corymb inflorescence. The more conspicuous part of
the inflorescence is the numerous white bracts that
surround the actual flowers.
It prefers dry, sunny climates, although it is hardy to
temperatures well below freezing. The leaves and
young plants are edible when cooked.
Grows well in the perennial border when mixed with
brightly colored flowers. Also effective in dry
meadows or prairies, native plantings and wildflower
gardens.
The dried stalks with their pearly-white heads are
attractive in floral arrangements. The pure
white flower is commonly used in dried flower
arrangements. Anaphalis margaritacea
Friday 4th
November
White cloud with sunny spells. Dry.
Practical: Taking care of Phoenix canariensis specimens displayed in the Terraces.
Stages are the following: first pull out the plants from the vases, then cut down the weaker-dead branches,
reduce the root ball, re-pot the plant in plastic containers and move them in the nursery for overwintering.
In the afternoon, I go for a plant-identification walk with the Toby throughout the gardens. Today we are
looking for plants having autumn interest.

24
Plant identification Walk – Autumn Interest
Genus Species cv. /var. Family Common name
Carpinus betulus Betulaceae Hornbeam
Castanea sativa Fagaceae Sweet Chestnut
Clethra barbinervis Clethraceae Japanese Clethra
Cryptomeria japonica “Elegans” Cupressaceae Japanese Cedar
Davidia involucrata Nyssaceae Handkerchief Tree
Euonymus alatus Celastraceae
Fagus sylvatica Fagaceae Beech
Ginkgo biloba Ginkgoaceae Maidenhair Tree
Liquidambar styraciflua Altingiaceae Sweet Gum
Liriodendron tulipifera Magnoliaceae Tulip Tree
Nyssa sylvatica Nyssaceae Tupelo
Parrotia persica Hamamelidaceae Persian Ironwood
Pseudolarix amabilis Pinaceae Golden Larch
Quercus palustris Fagaceae Pin Oak
Tilia x euchlora Malvaceae Lime
Observations: During the plant ident with Toby I have the opportunity to admire many remarkable trees and
shrubs, but my attention is peaked when I see Nyssa sylvatica in the Memorial Arboretum.
Nyssa sylvatica, commonly known as black tupelo, tupelo or black gum, is a medium-sized deciduous tree
native to eastern North America from New England and southern Ontario south to central Florida and
eastern Texas, as well as Mexico. Nyssa sylvatica's genus name (Nyssa) refers to a Greek water nymph; the
species epithetsylvatica refers to its woodland habitat. The species' common name tupelo is of Native
American origin, coming from the Creek words ito “tree” and opilwa “swamp”; it was in use by the mid-18th
century. While these trees are often known as simply “tupelo”, the fuller name black tupelo helps distinguish it
from the other species of the tupelo genus, some of which have overlapping ranges, such aswater tupelo (N.
aquatica) and swamp tupelo (N. biflora). The name “tupelo” is used primarily in the South America; northward
and in Appalachia, the tree is more commonly called the black gum or the sour gum, although no part of the
plant is particularly gummy. Both of these names contrast it with a different tree species with a broadly
overlapping range, the sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua), which does produce an aromatic resin.
Nyssa sylvatica is a small, slow-growing deciduos tree of elegant, broadly conical habit. Ovate leaves to 15cm
in length turn brilliant red and yellow in autumn. Flowers and fruits are inconspicuous.
Nyssa sylvatica is cultivated as an ornamental tree in parks and large gardens, where it is often used as a
specimen or shade tree. The tree is best when grown in sheltered but not crowded positions, developing a
pyramidal shape in youth, and spreading with age. The stem rises to the summit of the tree in one tapering
unbroken shaft, the branches come out at right angles to the trunk and either extend horizontally or droop a little,
making a long-narrow, cone-like head.
The leaves are short-petioled and so have little individual motion, but the branches sway as a whole. The spray
is fine and abundant and lies horizontally so that the foliage arrangement is not unlike that of the beech (Fagus).
Its often spectacular autumnal coloring, with intense reds to purples, is highly valued in landscape settings. It is
the most fiery and brilliant of the “brilliant group” that includes maple, dogwood, sassafras, andsweet gum, as
well as various species of tupelo.
Nyssa sylvatica Pseudolarix amabilis

25
Monday 7th
November
Overcast, humid.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Working around the private service road
rear to the house and also the borders nearby.
I strip off ivies, rake up leaves, and pick up branches
and twigs. I also cut the leggier and lowest bits of
shrubs and tree in order to open the view and give
balance to the borders. I use mainly secateurs,
loppers, wire and landscape rakes.
We work intensively in a team of four, but still this is
a something-in-nothing job, as the borders are
overgrown and quite neglected in places and ideally
need to be re-landscaped and re-planted.
Observations: Nearby the contractors shed I notice
Olearia x haastii (Daisy Bush). Flowers are gone
now, but it is still a nice, well-structured shrub.
Other plants in this woodland area (which is close to
the public) are Berberis stenophylla, B. darwinii, B.
julianae and few different cultivars of hollies. These
all are quite thorny, nasty plants to deal with and I
think that they could be suitable choices for car parks
or public spaces in ordero to discourage trespassing.
Back home in the evening, I focus my attention on the
Berberis genus and species.
Berberis is a genus of about 450-500 species of
deciduous and evergreen shrubs from 1-5 meter tall
with thorny shoots, found throughout the temperate
and subtropical regions of the world (apart from
Autralia). Species diversity is greatest in South
America, Africa and Asia; Europe has a few species,
and North America two. The most well-
known Berberis species is the so-called European
barberry, Berberis vulgaris, common in Europe,
North Africa, the Middle East, and central Asia.
The genus Berberis is characterized by dimorphic
shoots, with long shoots which form the structure of
the plant, and short shoots only 1–2 mm long.
The leaves on long shoots are non-photosynthetic,
developed into three-spined thorns 3–30 mm long; the
bud in the axil of each thorn-leaf then develops a short
shoot with several normal, photosynthetic leaves.
These leaves are 1–10 cm long, simple, and either
entire, or with spiny margins.
The flowers are produced singly or in racemes of up
to 20 on a single flower-head. They are yellow or
orange, 3–6 mm long, with six sepals and six petals in
alternating whorls of three.
The fruit is a small berry 5–15 mm long, ripening red
or dark blue, often with a pink or violet waxy surface
bloom; in some species, they may be either long and
narrow, but are spherical in other species.
Berberis darwinii
Berberis stenophylla
Berberis julianae
Some authors regard the compound-leaved species as a separate genus, Mahonia. Mahonia and Berberis sensu
stricto are best regarded as one genus. There are no consistent differences between the two groups other than the
compound leaves, and studies suggest that the simple-leaved group is very likely polyphyletic.

26
Thursday 8th
November
Gloomy day. Some drizzle.
Rainfalls: 1.0 mls.
Practical: Raking and tiding up throughout the Pleasure Grounds for the first part of the morning.
We prepare the garden in the window time between 8 and 10, just by the time of the first tea break for us and the
opening time to the public.
In the last part of the morning and then in the afternoon, I keep on planting wall flowers in the Lower and Upper
Terraces.
Observations: Interesting Phil’s speech about the differences in double-paged leaves plants, such as Eleagnus,
Populus, Salix, Magnolia ssp. One blade is smooth, the other is abrasive, or, technically, pubescent. Pubescent is
a surface feature that can be found on many organs of a plant and means that the organ is covered with
pubescence, or short, dense, soft downy hairs. Plants often turn to the wind the abrasive site in order to loss
moisture when windy. It’s like the human sweating.
After some evening research, I then find out that this feature is technically called indumentums. In biology,
an indumentum (Latin, literally: “garment”) is a covering of trichomes (fine “hairs”) on a plant.
In plants, indumentum types include: pubescent, hirsute, pilose, villous, tomentose, stellate, scabrous, scurfy.
The indumentum on plants can have a wide variety of functions, including as anchorage in climbing plants
(e.g., Galium aparine), in transpiration control, the reflection of solar radiation, increasing water-repellency
(e.g., in the aquatic fern Salvinia), in protection against insect predation, and in the trapping of insects
(Drosera, Nepenthes, Stylosanthes). The use of an indumentum on insects can also be pollen-related, as
on bees, sensory like whiskers, or for varied other uses including adhesion and poison.
In the woodland borders I notice an invasive climbing plant, bearing deep-red berries and climbing up to 4
meters. This is Tamus communis (syn. Dioscorea communis) commonly known as black bryony. This is a nasty
thing indeed.
This is a climbing herbaceous plant growing to 2–4 m
tall, with twining stems. The leaves are spirally
arranged, heart-shaped, up to 10 cm long and 8 cm
broad, with a petiole up to 5 cm long. It is dioecious,
with separate male and female plants. The flowers are
individually inconspicuous, greenish-yellow, 3–6 mm
diameter, with six petals; the male flowers produced
in slender 5–10 cm racemes, the female flowers in
shorter clusters. The fruit is a bright red berry, 1 cm
diameter. Its fairly large tuber is, like the rest of the
plant, poisonous.
Tamus communis is a native spontaneous species
widespread throughout Europe, northwestAfrica and
western Asia.
It is a typical plant of the underwood, from the sea to
the mountains, usually in dense woods, but it can also
be found in meadows and hedges.
All components of the black bryony plant, including
the tubers, are poisonous due to saponin content.
Therefore, it is not typically used internally; however,
it has been used as a poultice for bruises and inflamed
joints. It has been suggested that black bryony be used
topically with caution, due to a tendency for the plant
to cause painful blisters.
Studies have isolated calcium oxalate deposits and
histamines in the berry juice and rhizomes, which
may contribute to skin irritation and contact dermatitis
associated with black bryony.
Tamus communis

27
Wednesday 9th
November
Bright and mild, dry.
Rainfalls: 2.0 mls.
Practical: Carrying out the bedding work in the
Terraces.
A diversion is offered in the last part of the morning
by the visit the Compost Area with Alen.
In this large area next to the bordering fields we keep
many different heaps: staff for compost, things to
burn, wood chipping, logs and stumps, ex-turf and top
soil. Things we use for compost are mainly cuttings,
woody branches and twigs, grass, weedings, horse
dung, hay. We don’t separate green and brown
compost, but process them together.
The compost heaps are processed twice a year with a
shredder, and then turned with tractor with attached a
bucket big enough to effectively rotate the
composting heap.
Things we burn are magnolia, palm and phormium
leaves, rose cuttings, any fruits likely to be diseased,
every bits of plants we now are invasive here (Tamus
communis, Calystegia sepium, etc).
I become also aware that the temperature of
composting heap has to be recorded. The ideal
compost temperature is between 65/70 C° at centre,
and this heat will kill weed seeds and steilise the
compost. However to maintain a good temperature in
periods of cold and therefore sustain the process at
work, it is a good practice to insulate the heap. Old
carpet on the top and bales of straw or corrugated iron
around the sides work well - but don't completely
block the airflow.
In the summer compost should take as little as 12
weeks to make, but in winter it takes longer. A mature
compost should be dark brown, friable and should
smell like good soil.
Observations: The so-called CN ratio is chemically
the key of the process. This is the correct balance
between carbon and nitrogen (CN) and must be
maintained in the heap. Many plants (particularly
older ones) have a lot of carbon in them and micro-
organisms need nitrogen to break it down. This can be
added in many forms as an 'activator' layer when you
build your compost heap. Animal manure (horse, pig,
poultry), bone and fish meal and manufactured
products (e.g. from seaweed) make excellent
activators. If you live in a town or you have acid
material in the heap a layer of lime can help neutralise
this. Some gardeners recommend layers of garden soil
to “innoculate” the heap with the right micro-
organisms, but it is advisable don't overdo this. Other
high N additives include a layer of nettles, comfrey or
straw.
Newly concreted Compost Area
Thermometer
Reed Bed

28
Thursday 10th
November
Cloudy but mild; turning brighter in the afternoon.
Rainfalls: 0.2 mls.
Practical: Undertaking bulb planting in the Lower and Upper Terraces.
Observations: Today I notice the beautiful Clematis
armandii in the Lower Terrace. It was first
introduced to England in 1900 by the great plant
hunter Ernest Wilson who originally discovered
it in China.
Clematis armandii is a large, vigorous evergreen
climber with leathery, dark glossy green trifoliate
leaves up to 15cm long. Single fragrant creamy-white
flowers 5-6cm across with creamy stamens, in clusters
in early to mid spring.
It is a good clematis for a warm south or south-west
facing wall with protection from cold winds. Grow in
any fertile, well-drained soil. Plant with the crown 5-8
cm deep to encourage shoots to grow from below
ground level. Keep the base shaded and cool by the
careful positioning of plants or a layer of pebbles or
flat stones. Clematis armandii is a really good plant,
capable to brighten up the garden in early spring with
its fragrant white flowers, scented like hawthorn. Clematis armandii
Friday 11th
November
Humid and foggy in the morning, brighter and milder later.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Working down to the woods by the Swiss Cottage.
In team of three, we collect and move to the yard some coppiced branches which volunteer have pailed up in the
woods during the last week. This material is going to be used over the year for different jobs in the gardens
(staking, whig wams, etc) and comes from ash maple (Acer negundo) and hazelnut (Corylus avellana).
In the afternoon I move to the Pleasure Grounds for general leaf and twigs clearance.
Coppiced hazel

29
Monday 14th
November
Foggy, turning brighter later. Some cold dampness is expected later this week.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: General tiding up by the POQ (the public
entrance next to the car park).
For the last part of the day, I cage together with Nigel
the magnolia beds in the Pleasure Grounds. We use
wire mesh, stretching it all the way around the four
circular beds. This is done for protecting the plants
from the pests. In the matter of fact, I become aware
that we had problems last years with rabbit activity
and damage.
Observations: This morning in the garden I notice
some very remarkable specimens of Lobelia tupa and
Escallonia bifida.
In the evening I focus on Escallonia bifida,
(commonly known as White Escallonia or Cloven
Gum Box), which attracted my attention due its
fragrant leaves.
This is a bushy, upright, evergreen shrub with glossy,
oval to spoon-shaped, dark green leaves and, in late
summer and autumn, panicles of white, tubular
flowers with spreading petals.
Its synonymous name, E. montevidensis, gives a clue
to its origin in South America and it was awarded the
prestigious Royal Horticultural Society’s “Award of
Garden” in 1915.
To best thrive it needs a full sunlight position, and to
be protected from cold winds. Often used as hedging
or screening, it can also be grown up a wall or trellis,
or in flowerbeds or borders. Although it is frost
tender, it’s relatively simple to grow and as long as
sheltered, requires little on-going care. Being from
South America, dry weather does not worry them.
There are more than 50 varieties of Escallonia grown,
although some are harder to find than others. “Hedge
with an Edge” is a low-growing, pink-flowered shrub,
ideal for bordering paths. This is also sold under the
name Escallonia “Pink Pixie”.
The range of Escallonia with the first part of the name
“Donard” is also an intersting choice. All these are
pink flowering and, as with all Escallonia, are
evergreen. They make an excellent clipped hedge or
just a specimen accent plant.
All the listed species and variety are suitable for
coastal, cottage garden, flower borders and beds,
hedging and screens or as a low maintenance or
Mediterranean climate plant. This is indeed a good,
useful plant.
This evening I also start a private research on Taxus
genus and its propagation, in order to write an essay
for my father, who wants to propagate some yews for
his garden via cuttings.
This is a good opportunity for learning something
about a very important plant for the Italian gardens
and also for practicing my mother tongue!
s
Escallonia bifida habit, leaves and bark

30
Tuesday 15th
November
Bright but chilly. Dry.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Working with Nigel by the Entrance Lodge.
We plant here some of the bulbs as well as plants in plugs, which remain from the main planting of the Terraces.
In the afternoon we carry on and complete the border maintenance of the POQ area.
Observations: I ask to Nigel about his favorite gardens. He admires Highgrove, the Prince of Wales garden in
the Cotswolds, where things are done in an organic way. In the instance, sheep and cattle are used for “mowing”
and sowing and seeding. Different breeds do the job in different ways.
In these days I can admire Garrya elliptica in many private gardens. This is a species of flowering plant in
the family Garryaceae, native to the coastal ranges of California and southern Oregon and is commonly known
as coast silk-tassel, silk tassel bush or wavyleaf silktassel.
It is an erect, bushy, evergreen shrub reaching a height of 2–5 meter. It has a multi-furcate branching structure
yielding an almost spherical form. The height averages is 3 m in the wild. Like others of its genus, G.
elliptica has opposite leaves with a tough leathery feel, glossy green on top, but paler and duller on the
underside.
The dioecious flowers are concentrated in inflorescences which cascade downward as aments of 4–6 cm in
length. While it manifests separate male and female plants, the pendant malecatkins are much showier and are
grey-green and up to 30 cm long; the female ones are shorter and silver-grey. Although the flowers bloom in
late winter and early spring, dried bracts remain on the plant well into summer as light gray decorations.
The unique characteristics of Garrya elliptica are its waxy convex leaves with wavy leaf margins, coupled with
dense individual hairs on the leaf undersides that are scarcely distinguishable with a hand lens.
Garrya elliptica is appealing as an ornamental plant with a neat growing habit, and is widely used for landscape
purposes. It is a low-maintenance plant that thrives in a range of locations, but is typically seen growing against
a wall, or as a windbreak in coastal areas. Cultivars include “Evie” and “James Roof”, which has catkins up to
30 cm in length.
Garrya eliptica Garrya eliptica flower bud

31
Wednesday 16th
November
Gloomy day but still mild and dry.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Today we need to prepare some holes for bulb planting in the meadows around the house. Later on
today, school classes have to stick the bulbs in these holes we are preparing. The bulbs supposed to go in are
pale-yellow coloured, small native daffodils really good for landscaping purposes.
We work quite hard in a team of four (Reese, Phil, Adrian and I). We use only spades, in the way of cutting and
lifting segments of turf, pokets underneath which the bulbs will be planted.
In the afternoon, I join Jannet for collection greeneries the forthcoming Christmas Fair. I have the opportuny to
see for the first time the Pit House. This is an artificial pool at the top of a small hill in the woods between the
Pleasure Grounds and the House lawns. It is all surrounded by a belt of native trees and shrubs and used to be
the place where fishes where kept for the kitchen.
Observations: Flicking through the Horticulture week an interesting focus about Stipa genus, which is
described as a must-have garden design plant.
Stipa is a genus of around 300 large perennial hermaphroditic grasses collectively known as feather
grass, needle grass, and spear grass. They are placed in the Poaceae family, subfamily Pooideae and the
tribe Stipeae.
Stipa are tufted, clump-forming grass species that are native to temperate and warm temperate regions of the
world. Their leaves are linear, pleated, and rolled, and their flowers are feathery, bristly, or flattened.
Many species are important forage crops. Several species such as Stipa brachytricha, S. arundinacea, S.
splendens, S. calamagrostis, S. gigantea and S. pulchra are used as ornamental plants. One species, esparto
grass (Stipa tenacissima), is used for crafts and extensively inpaper making.
Stipa tenuissima Stipa gigantea
Stipa arundinacea Stipa calamagrostis
(internet database)

32
Thursday 17th
November
Bright, mild, dry.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Border maintenance and general
horticultural maintenance of the Lower Terrace beds
as well as the perennial borders just lower down.
It’s mainly about cutting down herbaceous plants now
gone over. The main, most time-consuming task is to
reduce the foliage of Phormium tenax and also to cut
off some of the last-year’s flowering stems.
Observations: I can observe a large patch of weed in
the perennial border. This is Aegopodium podagraria,
the notoriously known Ground Elder (but also Herb
Gerald, Bishop’s Weed, Goutweed and Snow-in.the-
Mountain).
This is a perennial plant in the carrot family
(Apiaceae) that grows in shady places. The name
“ground elder” comes from the superficial similarity
of its leaves and flowers to those of elder (Sambucus),
which is unrelated. It is the type species of the genus
Aegopodium. This species is native to Eurasia, and has
been introduced around the world as an ornamental
plant, where it occasionally poses an ecological threat
as an invasive exotic plant.
Seed dispersal and seedling establishment is typically
limited by shading, and new establishments from seed
are restricted to disturbed areas.
However, Aegopodium podagraria readily spreads
over large areas of ground by underground rhizomes.
Once established, the plants are highly competitive,
also in shaded environments, and can reduce the
diversity of ground cover, and prevent the
establishment of tree and shrub seedlings. Because of
its limited seed dispersal ability, short-livedseed
bank and seedling recruitment, the primary vector for
dispersal to new areas are human plantings as an
ornamental, medicinal or vegetable plant, as well as
by accidentally spreading rhizomes by dumping of
garden waste. It spreads rapidly under favorable
growing conditions.
Nigel suggests an organic way of control which
consists in planting garden bulbs where the weed is
present. Then, by digging out from the ground the
bulbs as well as the invasive rhizomes, try to
gradually reduce the problem over the years.
Noticing a new nice thistle: Echinops ritro, in the
perennial border along the lower terraces. This is in
the family Asteraceae, native to southern central and
southeastern Europe, and western Asia.
It is a compact, bushy herbaceous perennial thistle,
growing to 60 cm tall, with broad prickly leaves and
bearing globes of steel-blue flowers 2.5 cm - 4.5 cm in
diameter, in late summer. The Flowers grow on
silvery, brached, leafy stems. Echinops ritro and the
E. ritro subsp. ruthenicus have gained the Royal
Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Phormium tenax
Echinops ritro
Aegopodium podagraria

33
Friday 18th
November
Mild, bright, dry.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Mowing the Upper and Lower Terraces.
I work in team with Phil, using two Hayter Harrier mowers, at level 4 to the ground. This is the cut-height
suitable for the autumn and winter seasons (level 3 is for spring and summer).
Observations: Phil used to work in a the golf course next to here. So we spend some time discussing about
mowing the main differences and tools involved in mowing garden lawns and golf greens. While doing so, we
notice the big lawn slitter of the contractors’ team in action in the main lawn next to the house.
The tools which are used for changing a golf hole are pictured below and from left to right are:
hole changing board, screwdriver for small position indicator flag, curved hole trimming scissors, hole puller,
cup setter and hole changer.
After the hole is removed with the hole puller, the new position for the hole is selected; the position should be
free from pitchmarks and not near an old hole location. There are no strict guidelines for locating a hole, but it
should be a reasonable distance from the edge of the green and not near any slopes. The board is then placed
over the selected position, before the cutter is set on top of it and the blades knocked into the ground to a pre
determined level so that the plug removed fits perfectly into the old hole and comes flush to the surface of the
green.
Once this has been done the hole is trimmed before the cup is inserted and pushed in with the setter to ensure it
is the regulation 1 inch below the surface. Then the positional flag is located to show the flag location on the
green from a distance and the job is done.
Setting hole positions varies according to the time of year and type of competition being played; over summer
various positions are rotated and depending on which competition is coming up and whether a certain position is
being “saved” for a particular event. Positions are rotated to ensure previous locations are rested and allowed to
recover. Attention is also payd ensure that we have a balance of positions over the course as a whole; a balance
of difficulty of positions as well as variety of locations, i.e. left/right, front/back.
Winter golf is a little different, where different areas of greens are used from the summer, in order to allow them
to recover where possible. In bad weather, it is also a good practice to favour using the front of the greens for
hole locations so as to have less traffic and wear on the main part of the green.
Lawn slitter Tools for changing a golf hole (internet database)

34
Monday 21st
November
Foggy and moist but still not cold.
Rainfalls: 0.1 mls.
Practical: Hedge trimming in the Gardeners’ Yard and also in the Pleasure Grounds borders.
I work in team with Reese. We look after the trimming of brad-leaved shrubs, such as bay (Laurus nobilis),
cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus), New Zealand broadleaf (Griselinia littoralis).
Because of the type of foliage, we don’t use hedge trimmers. We use use secateurs and loppers, which will
allow us to achieve a better, tider effect.
Prunus laurocerasus Griselinia littoralis
Observations: Scattered in the borders are stems of Lilium tigrinum “Splendens”. These are a legacy from one
of the previous head gardener.
Clematis vitalba (the commonly known Old Man’s Beard) is also present in the East-facing border of the
Pleasure Grounds, climbing over the wall of the kitchen garden. This is a native, invasive climber thriving in
chalky soils.
Clematis vitalba is a perennial, deciduous, woody vine. The compound leaves are in groups of five, sometimes
displaying coarse serrations. It blooms in late summer, producing small white flowers. The flowers and seed
heads make clematis easily identifiable at this time of the year. The seed heads remain visible through the
winter. Clematis invades moist forests, especially along river banks and near urban areas. A vine that grows up
to 100 ft. long, it can climb and smother tall trees by cutting off the light they need for photosynthesis.
Clematis in trees will die if the vines are cut near the base of the tree and the roots are removed. Dispose of the
plants where they will not be able to re-establish themselves and do not cultivate any clematis unless sure it is a
non-invasive variety. Pull or dig clematis plants out by the roots.
In the United States Clematis vitalba is a major weed. Aaron Duzik of the Lincoln Soil and Water Conservation
District was recently awarded a grant to treat clematis. The result of some of this work in the dead vines is
apparently noticible in trees along Highway 101 to the north of the bridge in Yachats. Clematis has also invaded
the coastal forest near Devil’s Churn in the Cape Perpetua scenic area.
Clematis vitalba (Old Man’s Beard) plant and seed head

35
Tuesday 22nd
November
Foggy but still bright. Dry.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: General horticultural maintenance in the Pleasure Grounds borders.
I focus on cropping down large patches of Hemerocallis cultivars. In the afternoon I fell down a medium-
sized bay tree with Reese. For the last part of the day, I join Toby for my second ident-tour throughout the
gardens. Our walk is about plants having winter interest.
Genus Species cv. / var. Family Common name
Callicarpa bodinieri Lamiaceae Bodinier’s Beautyberry
Danae racemosa Asparagaceae Alexandrian Laurel
Ruscus aculeatus Asparagaceae Butchers Broom
Ilex aquilofium Aquifoliaceae Holly
Ilex verticillata Aquifoliaceae Winterberry
Ilex perado subsp. perado Aquifoliaceae Madeiran Holly
Ilex x koehneana Aquifoliaceae Koehne or Chestnut Holly
Viburnum tinus Adoxaceae Laurustinus
Liriope muscari Asparagaceae Lilytuft
Arbutus unedo Ericaceae Killarney, Strawberry Tree
Salvia bethellii “Hadspen” Lamiaceae Roseleaf Sage
Salvia leucantha Lamiaceae Mexican Bush Sage
Salvia splendens “Van-Houttei” Lamiaceae Scarlet Sage
Salvia cacalifolia Lamiaceae Blue Vine Sage
Escallonia resinosa Escalloniaceae Curry Scented Escallonia
Observations: Toby inspires me with his knowledge and litterily floods me with horticultural facts and
information: the use of bracken (especially from Pteridium species) for overwinter tender plants and also as a
mulch; the connection between red berries and wild life; the diversity of Mexican climate and flora and its
importance for salvia species; salvia flowers always come double-lipped: the upper lip is erect and hooded, the
lower one id double-toothed and more spread; the characteristic clump of berries as one of the key for
identifying hollies; Magnolia as really ancient plants, pollinated by beetles.
One of the facts that attract my attention is Toby’s mention on cladode plants, in reference of Ruscus aculeatus.
In botany, cladode is a flattened organ arising from the stem of a plant. These often replace the leaves in
photosynthetic function, as leaves in such plants are typically reduced to scales. Phylloclade is a type of cladode,
a flattened stem that has limited extension growth and resembles a leaf.
Of the cultivated examples, the tapeworm plant Muehlenbeckia platyclados (family Polygonaceae) has the most
conspicuous leaves. The phyllocladous woody species of Phyllanthus (family Euphorbiaceae) are other,
strikingly similar dicotyledonous examples.
Among monocotyledons, several genera with cladodes are widely cultivated. Species of Asparagus generally
have needle-like cladodes, although in some species of asparagus they can be flattened (like in Myrsiphyllum).
The closely related family Ruscaceae (eight species), including Ruscus aculeatus (Butcher’s Broom), R.
hypoglossum (Caesar’s Lurel) and Danae racemosa (Alexandrian Laurel) and Semele androgyna (Climbing
Butcher’s Broom), has cladodes that appear to form flowrs on leaves but in reality have flowers produced from
nodes. Finally, most genera of cladode-producing plants occur in the cactus family (Cactaceae).
Danae racemosa Ruscus aculeatus

36
Wednesday 23rd
November
Initially foggy, then brighter. Still dry.
Temperatures: min 1°C / max 14 °C.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Pruning throughout the rhododendron
beds.
Alan gives me concise lowdown about how hard
pruning is managed here for re-landscape the beds
over the years. This is what he calls the five-year
rhododendron pruning plan, where individual sections
are basically undertaken over the years in order to
open the views and also give light to the plants, while
gradually reducing the height of the beds and giving
them a good balance.
Alan shows me what it was already done in the
previous years and I can appreciate straight forward
the result of a single-pruning instead than a multiple-
pruning management.
Observations: Hellebores are looking good in these
days in the herbaceous borders. I can admire the
beautiful Helleborus orientalis which is to me nicer
than H. niger.
In the evening I carry out some research on the genus
and its species. As it is currently described, the genus
Helleborus contains seventeen species of evergreen or
herbaceous perennial flowering plants in the family
Ranunculaceae.
However, many subspecies and a few forms are
recognized. As variation is the rule, two individuals of
a species can be distinctly different in the color and
size of the flower, as well as in the dissection and
serration of the leaves.
Most hellebores are native to mountainous regions of
Europe, in open oak and beech woodlands, scrub, and
meadows. These areas are characterized by limestone
bedrock and calcareous, humus-rich soils. The center
of distribution is the Balkan region of the former
Yugoslavia, south along the eastern Adriatic to
Greece and Turkey. One species, alone, is found far to
the east in China.
Hellebores are widely grown in gardens for decorative
purposes. They are particularly valued by gardeners
for their winter and early spring flowering period; the
plants are surprisingly frost-resistant and many
are evergreen.
Helleborus orientalis
In horticulture, two groups can be distinguished: caulent species (with leaves on their flowering stems) and
acaulescent or stemless species (with basal leaves and no true leaves on their flower stalks).
Caulent species are Helleborus argutifolius, H. foetidus, H. lividus and H. versicarius.
Acaulescent species are H. atrorubens, H. croaticus, H. cyclophyllus, H. dumetorum, H. abbuzzicus, H.
liguricus, H. boconei, H. multifidus (and subspecies), H. odorus, H. purpurascens, H. thibetanus, H. torquatus,
H. viridis (Green Hellebore), H. niger (Christmas Rose or Black Hellebore) and H. orientalis (Lenten rose,
Lenten Hellebore, Oriental Hellebore).
Most of the Lenten Helleores in garden are now considered to be H. x hybridus. Hybridising (deliberate and
accidental) between H. orientalis and several other closely related species and subspecies has vastly improved
the colour-range of the flowers, which now extends from slate grey, near-black, deep purple and plum, through
rich red and pinks to yellow, white and green.

37
Thursday 24th
November
Chilly, bright, dry.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: Hard pruning the native shrubs next the Pit House.
We work in them of three (Phil, Reese and I). I use the secateurs and loppers for the broader-foliage plants (such
as Prunus laurocerasus). I clear then the area by sticking all the cutting material on the tractor. This cutted,
wooden material will be chipped in the next days in the compost area.
Friday 25th
November
White cloud, dry.
Temperatures: min 4°C / max 13 °C.
Rainfalls: 0.9 mls.
Practical: First thing in the morning is leaf collecting with Billy Goat vacuum throughout the Main Avenue.
I also discuss for the first time with Jen about my personal project to establish and maintain an annual bed in the
Walled Garden. I become aware about many key things, such as the need to order annuals from the catalogues,
the difference in cultivation between hardy and half-hardy annuals, the possibility to use some perennials from
Osborne nurseries or to receive some of plants in “plugs”.
I see the previous plans of the trainees of the past years and their didactic panels which are kept in the stables.
I also have a survey within the greenhouses to see which perennials can be suitable for my purpose.
I will be givena rather large bed to layout and maintain, 16 by 21 meter. This bed is expected to be planted
mainly with annuals and and its best throughout the summer. It is desirable to choose old-fashioned species and
varieties, as the Walled Garden beds and borders are very connected with the history of Osborne House and both
layout and planting was made in the respect of the original, historical schemes.
I need to focus on a theme, and the first idea of mine is about “Plants named after the Victorians”.
Plants named after the Victorians, the first idea for the annuals bed in the Walled Garden.

38
Monday 28th
November
Grey cloud, showery.
Rainfalls: 0.6 mls.
Practical: Working with Jen in the greenhouses.
We clear the Iron House from many indoor plants of the latest display. We trow away many (inexpensive)
indoor plants, such as Dracaena marginata, Chlorophytum comosum “Variegatum”, Spathiphyllum “Chopin”
(Peace Lily), Chamaedorea elegans, Aloe striata and Codiaeum variegatum (Garden Croton).
Some intresting plants I can notice here this morning are: Lamphrantus (syn. Delosperma cooperi,
Mesembryanthemum cooperi), Helichrysum petiolare (displayed in pots with Brugmansia) and Tradescantia
pallida.
Observations: While weelbarrowing to the compost heap several indoor plants, I wonder if there is among them
some able to puriy air for my bedroom in West-Cowes.
I got interest in these days on air-filtering plants, after having bought B.C. Wolverton’s book “How to Grow
Fresh Air”. This research was designed to create a breathable environment for a NASA lunar habitat, and
scientist Wolverton discovered that houseplants are the best filters of common pollutants such as ammonia,
formaldehyde, and benzene. Hundreds of these poisonous chemicals can be released by furniture, carpets, and
building material, and then trapped by closed ventilation systems, leading to the host of respiratory and allergic
reactions now called Sick Building Syndrome. The book lists 50 plants as accessible and trouble-free as the tulip
and the Boston fern, and includes many beautiful but commonly found varieties not generally thought of as
indoor plants. Each plant is also rated for its effectiveness in removing pollutants, and its ease of growth and
maintenance.
Genus and species Family Common Genus and species Family Common
Chrysalidocarpus lutescens Arecaceae Areca Palm Philodendron
oxycardium
Araceae Heart-Leaf
Philodendron
Rhapis excelsa Arecaceae Lady Palm Sanseveria trifasciata Agavaceae Snake Plant
Chamaedorea seifrizii Arecaceae Bamboo Palm Dieffenbachia camilla Araceae Dumb Cane
Ficus robusta Moraceae Rubber Plant Philodendron
domesticum
Araceae Elephant Ear
Philodendron
Dracaena deremensis “Janet
Craig”
Agavaceae Dracaena
“Janet Craig”
Araucaria heterophylla Pinaceae Norfolk Island
Pine
Heldera helix Araliaceae Ivy Homalomena wallisii Araceae King of Hearts
Phoenix roebelenii Aracaceae Dwarf Date
Palm
Maranta leuconeura
“Kerchoveana”
Marantaceae Prayer Plant
Ficus macleilandii “Alii” Moraceae Ficus “Alii” Musa cavendishii Musaceae Dwarf Banana
Nephrolepis exaltata
“Bostoniensis”
Polypodiaceae Boston Fern Schlumbergera bridgesii Cactaceae Christmas
Cactus
Spathiphyllum sp. Araceae Peace Lily Cissus rhobifolia “Ellen
Danika”
Vitaceae Oakleaf Ivy
Dracaena fragrans
“Massangeana”
Agavaceae Corn Plant Liriope spicata Liliaceae Lily Turf
Epipremnum aureum Araceae Golden
Photos
Dendrobium sp. Orchideaceae Dendrobium
Orchid
Nephrolepis obliterata Polypodiaceae Kimberly
Queen
Chlorophytum comosum
“Vittatum”
Liliaceae Spider Plant
Chrysamthemum morifolium Compositae Florist’s
Mum
Aglaonema crispum
“Silver Queen”
Araceae Chinese
Evergreen
Gerbera jamesonii Compositae Gerbera
Daisy
Anthurium andraeanum Araceae Anthurium
Dracaena deremensis
“Warneckei”
Agavaceae Dracaena
“Warneckei”
Codiaeum variegatum
pictum
Euphorbiaceae Croton
Dracaena marginata Agavaceae Dragon Tree Euphorbia pulcherrima Euphorbiaceae Poinsettia
Philodendron erubescens Araceae Red Emerald
Philodendron
Rhododendron simsii
“Compacta”
Ericaceae Dwarf Azalea
Syngonium podophyllum Araceae Syngonium Calathea makoyana Marantaceae Peacock Plant
Dieffenbachia
“Exotica Compacta”
Araceae Dumb Cane Aloe barbadensis Liliaceae Aloe Vera
Chamaedorea elegans Arecaceae Parlor Palm Cyclamen persicum Primulaceae Cyclamen
Ficus benjamina Moraceae Weeping Fig Aechmea fasciata Bromeliaceae Urn Plant
Brassaia actinophylla Araliaceae Schefflera Tulipa gesneriana Liliaceae Tulip
Begonia semperflorens Begoniaceae Wax Begonia Phalenopsis sp. Orchideaceae Moth Orchid
Philodendron selloum Araceae Lacy Tree
Philodendron
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana Crassulaceae Kalanchoe

39
Dracaena marginata Chlorophytum comosum
Spathiphyllum “Chopin” Aloe striata
Chamaedorea elegans Codiaeum variegatum

40
Tuesday 29th
November
Windy, a bit cloudy.
Rainfalls: 6.0 mls.
Practical: Making a bonfire with Reese in the Compost Area.
We need to burn non-compostable material, such as magnolia and cordyline leaves, some rotted timber and
other plant material which has been possibly contaminated by pests and diseases.
I have a go with the John Deere tractor with frontloader attached.
Wednesday 30th
November
Rainy, white cloud.
Rainfalls: 7.2 mls.
Practical: First part of the morning is spent with Jen potting up cuttings of Cupressus funebris.
I can appreciate how some of them took nicely in since September 2010, when were cut. Other cuttings still
present the callous, which means they are not ready for potting up yet, but can be successful though.
Unfortunately a good percentace of the cutting material has been rotted.
We spend the last part of the morning tiding up the potting shed and preparing everything for the flowering
arrangement course which will take place tomorrow here.
Second part of the morning is with Reese, clearing the compost area and also baking some jacked potatoes under
the ashes of the bonfire we did the day before.
In the afternoon I work in the Pleasure Grounds, always in team with Reese. We dig out a mature Magnolia
stellata specimen, by using spades, mattock and shawels.
Observations: In the borders I can notice some interesting plants, such as Hamamelis x intermedia,
Sisyrinchium and Eryngium species as well as Campsis radicans (the hardy Bignonia).
Witch hazels in particular look fantastic this time of the year.
Hamamelis × intermedia (hybrid witch hazel) is a species of flowering plant in the familyHamamelidaceae. It is
a hybrid of garden origin between H. japonica and H. mollis. Its Latin name refers to its intermediate
appearance between those two species.
This is a deciduous shrub growing to 4 m tall and wide, with zig-zagging stems and alternate,
simple leaves 15 cm long, which turn yellow in autumn. The yellow, orange or red flowers with twisted petals
appear on bare stems in midwinter through early spring.
Numerous cultivars have been developed, many of them prized as garden subjects. The following have gained
the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit: “Angelity”, “Arnold Promise”, “Barmstedt Gold”,
“Diane”, “Jelena” and “Pallida” (which is probably one of the most remarkable).
Hamamelis virginiana is the one which flowers in autumn rather than in winter.
Hamamelis x intermedia Hamamelis x intermedia flower buds

41
December
Thursday 1st
December
White cloud, then heavy rainy.
Rainfalls: 6.1 mls.
Practical: The day starts with the whole garden team in the visitor carpark testing the new-entry of our
machinery park, a second-hand Manitou MLA628. It has instantly renamed the “Big Red”, for a rather obvious
reason.
After testing it, the gardeners’ team is back to their regular work and I join Reese in the Pleasure Grounds
border for finishing the digging out of the now unwanted magnolia tree.
Also I carry out some pruning of a Prunus laurocerasus hedge by using loppers and secateurs.
We have to stop before half four because of the pouring rain in the last part of the afternoon. Thus, I join Jen in
the nurseries and do some general clearing and tidying up.
Observations: Manitou MLA628 is a telehandler with powershifht telescopic forklift system.
It has been purchased for been used in the compost area and turning the compost. In the long term, this will
allow us to save a great deal of money from the hiring of heavy machinery and also contractors. Toby expects to
amortise the investiment in about three years.
A telescopic handler, or telehandler, is a machine widely used in agriculture and industry. It is similar in
appearance and function to a forklift but is more a crane than forklift, with the increased versatility of a single
telescopic boom that can extend forwards and upwards from the vehicle. On the end of the boom the operator
can fit one of several attachments, such as a bucket, pallet forks, muck grab, or winch.
In agriculture the most common attachment for a tele-handler is a bucket or bucket grab, the most common
application being to move loads to and from places unreachable for a “conventional machine” which in this case
is a wheeled loader or backhoe loadal. For example, telehandlers have the ability to reach directly into a high-
sided trailer or hopper. The latter application would otherwise require a loading ramp, conveyor, or similar.
The advantage of the telehandler is also its biggest limitation: as the boom extends or raises while bearing a
load, it acts as a lever and causes the vehicle to become increasingly unstable, despite counterweights in the rear.
This means that the lifting capacity quickly decreases as the working radius (distance between the front of the
wheels and the centre of the load) increases.
Manitou MLA628, the “Big Red”

42
Friday 2nd
December
Overcast, dry.
Practical: The first part of the morning is spent finishing the trimming of the Prunus laurocerasus.
Meanwhile in the Potting Shed a course of wreath making is taking place.
In the afternoon I am back to the Pleasure Grounds for trimming the Prunus laurocerasus.
Observations: After several days working on Punus laurocerasus, tonight I decide it’s the time to investigate
the genus a bit deeper. Prunus laurocerasus, also known as cherry laurel, common laurel and sometimes English
laurel in North America, is an evergreen species of cherry (Prunus), native to regions bordering the Black Sea in
southwestern Asia and southeastern Europe, from Albania and Bulgaria east throughTurkey to the Caucasus
Mountains and northern Iran.
The common names of P. laurocerasus refer to the similarity of foliage and appearance to bay laurel (Laurus
nobilis, the true laurel, in the Lauraceae family), and like the bay laurel, Prunus laurocerasus was used for
making laurel wreaths, but the two plants are unrelated. It is not to be confused with its American
relative Prunus caroliniana, which is also called cherry laurel.
Prunus laurocerasus is an evergreen shrub or small to medium-sized tree, growing to 5 to 15 metres tall, rarely
to 18 metres, with a trunk up to 60cm broad. The leaves are dark green, leathery, shiny, with a finely serrated
margin. The leaves can have the scent of almonds when crushed. The flower buds appear in early spring and
open in early summer in erect racemes of 30–40 flowers, each flower 1cm across, with five creamy-white petals
and numerous yellowish stamens. The fruit is a small cherry 1–2cm broad, turning black when ripe in early
autumn.
Prunus laurocerasus is a widely cultivated ornamental plant, used for planting in gardens and parks in temperate
regions worldwide. It is often used for hedges, as a screening plant, and as a massedlandscape plant. Most
cultivars are tough shrubs that can cope with difficult growing conditions, including shaded and dry conditions,
and which respond well to pruning.
Over 40 cultivars have been selected, including “Aureovariegata” (variegated, leaves with a yellow margin),
“Magnifolia” (vigorous, with great leaves up to 30-cm wide and 11-cm broad), “Otto Luyken” (named
after Otto Luyken, half-dwarf, with small leaves 10-cm wide and 2–3-cm broad) and “Zabeliana” (selected for
winter cold tolerance). The cultivar “Otto Luyken” has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of
Garden Merit.
Prunus laurocerasus flowers and fruits

43
Monday 5th
December
White cloud, dry.
Rainfalls: 0.1 mls.
Practical: Down to the Compost Area making another bonfire with Reese.
Unfortunately this time isn’t as windy as the time before, so we have to use backpack blowers and nevertheless
the result is not the same.
Observations: I get interest in identifying conifers.
Conifer is a Latin word, a compound word of conus and ferre (to bear), meaning the one that bears (a) cone(s).
The conifers are in the division Pinophyta, also known as division Coniferophyta or Coniferae. They all
are gymnosperms, cone-bearing seed plants with vascular tissue. All extant conifers are woody plants, the great
majority being trees with just a few being shrubs.
The division Pinophyta contains approximately eight
families, 68 genera, and 630 living species.
The conifers are an ancient group, with a fossil record
extending back about 300 million years to the
Paleozoic in the late Carboniferous period. Even
many of the modern genera are recognizable from
fossils 60–120 million years old.
Although the total number of species is relatively
small, conifers are of immense ecological importance.
They are the dominant plants over huge areas of land,
most notably the boreal forests of the northern
hemisphere, but also in similar cool climates in
mountains further south. Boreal conifers have many
wintertime adaptations. The narrow conical shape of
northern conifers, and their downward-drooping limbs
help them shed snow. Many of them seasonally alter
their biochemistry to make them more resistant to
freezing, called “hardening”.
Phylogeny of the Pinophyta, based on genetic analysis by Farjon
(2003), Quinn & Price (2003) and Price (2003)
(internet database)
While tropical rainforests have morebiodiversity and turnover, the immense conifer forests of the world
represent the largest terrestrialcarbon sink, i.e. where carbon from atmospheric CO2 is bound as organic
compounds.
Conifers are also of great economic value, primarily for timber and paper production. The wood of conifers is
known as softwood.
Genus Family Key Features
Abies Pinaceae Single needles to the branches
Needles generally blunt and medium length
Mature cones upright, disintegrating when ripe
Twigs are smooth and fairly thick
Picea Pinaceae Single needles to the branches
Needles are generally sharp and short (no handshake!)
Mature cones pendulous, staying intact when ripe
Twigs are rough with little pegs (pulvini) and fairly thin
Pinus Pinaceae Needles are bundled (fascicles)
Spiral growth of branches, needles and cones
Cedrus Pinaceae Needles in densely clustered in spiral
Pseutotsuga Pinaceae Needles often blunt, soft, medium (2-4 cm)
Mature cones pendulous; long bracts
Twigs are fairly smooth and thin
Tsuga Pinaceae Needles often blunt, soft, medium (1-2 cm)
Mature cones pendulous and small
Twigs are fairly smooth and slender
Taxus Taxaceae Needles flat, dark green, medium (1-4 cm)
Juniper Cupressaceae Scale-like needles
Fleshy seed cone
Cupressus Cupressaceae
Metasequoia Cupressaceae
Chamaecyparis Cupressaceae Scale-like needles
Ginkgo Ginkgoaceae

44
Tuesday 6th
December
Bright and dry.
Rainfalls: 0 mls.
Practical: First thing in the morning is to record of the temperature in the greenhouses and also rainfalls.
Then I go collecting cuttings and greeneries for winter wreath making with Jen. We gather several parts of pine
(Pinus nigra), yew (Taxus baccata), fir (Abies fraseri), holly (Ilex aquifolium) and viburnum (Viburnum
cultivar).
In the last part of the morning up to last tea break, I mark with sand the patches in my annual bed.
I try to experiment two different ideas, the first being based on plain squares, the other on the V&A logo.
Jen makes an interesting suggestion about the way to fill a squared small bed only by using two plants (of the
same height). They can effectively combined together by mixing them in the center and then gradually separate
them by displaying individually at the opposite edges.
In the afternoon I rake up leaves and also spread well-rotted garden compost throughout the perennial borders of
the Pleasure Grounds.
Marking with sand the plots in the annuals bed
The sketch of the second concept for my annual bed: theme is now about colour temperatures

45
Wednesday 7th
December
Mild, bright day with some clouds at midday.
Rainfalls: 1.1 mls.
Practical: Carrying on covering with new compost
the herbaceous borders in the Pleasure Grounds.
We work in team of three (Reese, Alan and I), using
the tractor and trailer, wheelbarrows, shavels and
rakes. A good composting is vitally important for
these borders and make a difference already in terms
of presentation and aestethic.
The borders between the Gardeners’ Yard and the
Pleasure Grounds are hedged with Aucuba japonica
(Spotted Laurel). This is a very good plant, useful for
damp partial to deep shade. It is also valued for its
ability to thrive in the most difficult of garden
environments, dry shade. It will copes with pollution
and salt-laden coastal winds. It is often seen as an
informal hedge, but may also be grown indoors as
a houseplant.
Aucuba japonica is a very popular plant since the 19th
century, when became widely cultivated as the “gold
plant”.
In the borders I can also notice a beautiful specimen
of Ribes sanguineum and an unusual, very large-
leaved Hydrangea. Aucuba japonica
Observations: I get interest in firs after having collected several samples for the winter wreath making of
yesterday. There is confusion in their identification, as they are quite similar to spruce (Picea) and pine (Pinus)
tree.
Some of the most popular choices for Christmas trees belong to the fir genus (Abies). The most common fir
trees used are the balsam fir, Fraser fir, noble fir and Nordmann fir.
The fir trees can be identified by the place where the needle attaches to the branch, which looks like a suction
cup. The soft needles are attached to what looks like a suction cup on the branch. Unlike the pulvini of
the spruce trees, they detach cleanly from the branch without leaving a peg behind. The needles also aren't
formed into fascicles like the pine trees. The fir tree cones are also softer than other coniferous trees and come
apart at the end of the season to spread their seeds. They also grow upwards instead of hanging down.
As happens with common names sometimes, the name Douglas fir is a misnomer. The genus for that tree
is Pseudotsuga, which translates out to fake (Pseudo) hemlock (Tsuga), meaning that this tree is not a true fir.
In the vening I focus my attention on twelve species of fir trees to investigate a bit deeper.
Botanical Name
Common
Name
Native USDA Zones Tall
Abies balsamea Balsam Fir North America 3-8 40-90
Abies fraseri Fraser Fir Eastern United States 4-7 30-60
Abies grandis Grand Fir Northern California and
the Pacific Northwest
to 6 100-300
Abies spectabilis Himalayan Fir Afghanistan, India, China,
Nepal
7-9 to 100
Abies koreana Korean Fir South Korea 5-7 15-30
Abies procera Noble Fir West Oregon, Washington,
California
5-8 to 240
Abies nordmanniana Nordmann Fir Caucasus 4-6 40-100
Abies magnifica Red Fir Southwest California and
Oregon
6-8 to 200
Abies alba Silver Fir Southern and central
Europe
4-8 130-200
Abies pinsapo Spanish Fir Spain and Morocco 6-8 25-100
Abies lasiocarpa Rocky
Mountain Fir
Western North America 5-8 60-100
Abies concolor Concolor Fir Western North America 3-7 30-80

46
Thursday 8th
December
Windy, white clouds. Few showers.
Rainfalls: 0.5 mls.
Practical: First thing in the morning is record the temperatures and rainfalls.
Then I clearing the floor underneath a Magnolia grandiflora in the Pleasure Grounds and also pick up the leaves
throughout lawns and paths.
In the afternoon we compost the beds and borders in team of three. I also tidy up with secateurs and loppers the
overgrown bed next to the yard-entrance.
Last part of the working day I join Jen who needs some help in clearing the Iron House from the previous
display. By using a tall ladder, we move many pot off the shelves but the job needs to be completed tomorrow.
Observations: While clearing the Iron House in the afternoon, I notice a new, interesting plant. This is
Plectranthus verticillatus. It is commonly known as Swedish ivy, Swedish Begonia or Whorled Plectranthus and
is in the family Lamiaceae (Labiatae).
The plant has glossy, green, round leaves, which show a deep purple color in the center sometimes. This deep
purple can also be found on the plant stems and on the underside of leaves. The upright racemes appear white,
pale violet or pale pink and can sprout sporadically throughout the year.
Plectranthus verticillatus is a tender, robust plant doing well in indirect sunlight, mostly cultivated as hanging
house plant. In frost-free areas it is also found as groundcover in gardens or sprouting down walls. It can break
hard-landscape lines nicely.
It likes to stay moist and it also responds well to pruning. It can easily be rooted with cuttings and its
vulnerability is low; but a weak plant can be infested with spider mite.
The name Swedish ivy is deceptive: The plant is not thigmotropic (meaning it does not cling to walls with the
roots when it grows) and it is not closely related to the genus of Ivy (Hedera). It’s not even from Sweden as is
actually native to southern Africa where it occurs in the Cape Provinces, KwaZulu-Natal, Swaziland,
the Northern Provinces and southern Mozambique.
It is found naturalized in El Salvador, Honduras, the Leeward Islands, the Venezuela Antilles, the Windward
Islands, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, Hawaii as well as south-east Queensland and coastal areas of New South
Wales in Australia.
Plectranthus verticillatus

47
Friday 9th
December
Overcast, rainy.
Rainfalls: 6.2 mls.
Practical: Finishing clearing the Iron house from the previous display with Jen.
We throw away specimens of Bidens ferulifolia and Discia species. We keep and cut down Pelargonium
cultivars and species, as well as Oxalis triangularis “Atropurpurea” and Euryops pectinatus.
Observations: Oxalis triangularis “Atropurpurea” is a good indoor plant indeed. It is highly popular as a pot
plant and known as Love Plant and Purple Shamrock.
This is a variety of Oxalis which is the Oxalidaceae family. The full botanical name is Oxalis triangularis subsp.
papilionacea “Atropurpurea”. Blooms normally display as a colour very similar to electric lavender. When
mature, blooms are roughly 0.8 cm in diameter.The mature flowers take a Single form, with an approximate
petal count of 5. Leaves usually appear in palatinate purple and dark magenta colour. This variety is
an ornamental that typically grows as an annual or short-lived perennial.
It requires bright or direct sunlight supplemented with a cool indoor temperature of ~15 degrees celsius. It can
tolerate higher indoor temperatures but will go into dormancy prematurely and/or begin to take on a “tired”
appearance if temperatures go above 27 degrees celsius for prolonged periods of time. Use average potting soil
with good drainage and allow the surface soil to dry out between waterings. Mature plants are cut back to the
soil every 3–5 years in early summer or during the dormancy period. Young plants are cut back to the soil every
year in early summer or during the dormancy period, until they reach maturity.
Oxalis triangularis “Atropurpurea” grows from bulbs, and its propagation is done by division of the bulbs. Like
other bulbs, the oxalis go through dormancy periods on a regular basis; at the end of such period, the bulbs can
be unearthed, sidebulbs cut and replanted in appropriate soil, where they will grow into new plants.
The leaves of Oxalis triangularis move in response to light levels, opening in high ambient light (in the day) and
closing at low light levels (at night). This movement is not due togrowth and is instead powered by changes in
turgor pressure in cells at the base of the leaf. It is an example of photonasty.
Oxalis triangularis “Atropurpurea”

Osborne House Horticultural Diary by Giulio Veronese

Osborne House Horticultural Diary by Giulio Veronese

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Osborne House Horticultural Diary by Giulio Veronese