Gardens and Landscapes of Sicily

THE GARDENS AND LANDSCAPES OF SICILY
(28th
April / 10th
May 2013)
Travel Report
By Giulio Veronese, PGG Trainee

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THE GARDENS AND LANDSCAPES OF SICILY
(28th
April / 10th
May 2013)

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© Giulio Veronese
Printed: Highgrove, September 2013
All photograph and pictures used in this report are by Giulio Veronese except were other
source is given
Front cover: the dawn on the Mount Etna slopes

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Table of Contents
Acknowledgements 7
Introduction
Sicily (geography, climate, flora) 9
Itinerary of the expedition 11
The Journey
Setting out 14
1. Sunday 28th
April 14
2. Monday 29th
April 19
3. Tuesday 30th
April 26
4. Wednesday 1st
May 30
5. Thursday 2nd
May 37
6. Friday 3rd
May 42
7. Saturday 4th
May 45
8. Sunday 5th
May 46
9. Monday 6th
May 49
10. Tuesday 7th
May 53
11. Wednesday 8th
May 59
12. Thursday 9th
May 65
13. Friday 10th
May 72
Going home 76
Appendices
Glossary 79
Bibliography 81

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Acknowledgments
I would like to thank first of all Nick Wray, Curator at University of
Bristol Botanic Garden, for taking me in his trip to Sicily. To follow a
curator of a British botanic garden within the Sicilian gardens, have
been a unique a very formative experience for me.
Every single member of Nick’s group has been a special company and
driving force for me, but special thanks have to go to Judith and Alice.
A warm “ciao” goes to Sergio, the local guide during the expedition,
who revealed himself as a keen horticulturalist as well as a real friend.
Finally, excuses go to my little dog China, who was waiting for me in
Italy for Easter holidays and (again) came to know with
disappointment about my trip to Sicily.

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INTRODUCTION
Sicily
Geography
Sicily (Italian, Sicilia) is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea.
Along with surrounding minor islands, it constitutes an autonomous region of Italy, the
Regione Siciliana (Sicilian Region). The autonomous region also includes several
neighboring islands: the Aegadian Islands, the Aeolian Islands, Pantelleria and Lampedusa.
Sicily is located in the central Mediterranean and extends from the tip of the Apennine
peninsula from which it is separated only by the narrow Strait of Messina, towards the North
African coast.
Sicily has a roughly triangular shape, which earned it the name Trinacria, from Greek treis
'three' and akra 'promontory'. To the east, it is separated from the Italian region of Calabria by
the Strait of Messina, about 3 km (1.9 mi) wide in the north, and about 16 km (9.9 mi) in the
southern part. Northern and southern coasts are each about 280 kilometres (170 mi) long
measured as a straight line, while the eastern coast measures around 180 kilometres (110 mi).
Total coast length is estimated at 1,484 km.
The total area of the island is 25,711 square kilometres (9,927 sq mi), while the Autonomous
Region of Sicily (which includes smaller surrounding islands) has an area of 27,708 square
kilometers (10,698 sq mi).
The terrain of inland Sicily is mostly hilly and intensively cultivated wherever it was
possible. Along the northern coast, mountain ranges of Madonie, 2,000 m (6,600 ft), Nebrodi,
1,800 m (5,900 ft), and Peloritani, 1,300 m (4,300 ft), represent an extension of mainland
Appennines. The cone of Mount Etna dominates over the eastern coast. In the south-east lie
lower Hyblaean Mountains, 1,000 m (3,300 ft). The mines of the Enna and Caltanissetta
district were a leading sulfur-producing area throughout the 19th century, but have declined
since the 1950s.
Sicily and its small surrounding islands have some highly active volcanoes. Mount Etna, with
a height of 3,320 m (10,890 ft), is the tallest active volcano in Europe and one of the most
active in the world. The Aeolian Islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea, to the northeast of mainland
Sicily, exhibit a volcanic complex including Stromboli. Currently active also are the three
volcanoes of Vulcano, Vulcanello and Lipari, usually dormant. Off the southern coast of
Sicily, the underwater volcano of Ferdinandea, which is part of the larger Empedocles, last
erupted in 1831. It is located between the coast of Agrigento and the island of Pantelleria
(which itself is a dormant volcano), on the underwater Phlegraean Fields of the Strait of
Sicily.
The island is drained by several rivers, most of which flow through the central area and enter
the sea at the south of the island. The Salso flows through parts of Enna and Caltanissetta
before entering the Mediterranean Sea at the port of Licata. To the east, there is the Alcantara
in the province of Messina, which exits at Giardini Naxos; and the Simeto which exits into
the Ionian Sea south of Catania. Other important rivers on the island are to the southwest with
Belice and Platani.

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Climate
Sicily has a typical Mediterranean climate with mild and wet winters and hot, dry summers.
However, the great diversity of the environment doesn’t allow uniform climatic conditions.
The northern coasts are generally cooler than the southern and inner areas, influenced by the
hot African winds. Furthermore, the mountainous peaks present a more temperate climate
with considerable temperature ranges and harsh, snowy winters.
According to the Regional Agency for Waste and Water, on 10 August 1999 the weather
station of Catenanuova (EN) recorded a maximum temperature of 48.5 °C (119 °F), which is
the highest temperature ever recorded in Europe by the use of reliable instruments.
Flora
As a natural consequence of this climatic complexity, the Sicilian flora is rather unique.
The main island and its archipelagos are paradises of plant hunting with the highest number
of native and endemic species among the Mediterranean islands (respectively 2.707 and 305
according with Brullo & al. 2004).
Sicily is an often-quoted example of man-made deforestation, which was practiced since
Roman times, when the island was made an agricultural region. This gradually dampened the
climate, leading to decline of rainfall and drying of rivers. This is the reason why the central
and southwest provinces are practically without any forests. In Northern Sicily there are three
important forests, near Mount Etna, in the Nebrodi Mountains and in the Bosco della
Ficuzza's Natural Reserve near Palermo. The Nebrodi Mountains Regional Park, established
4 August 1993, with its 86,000hectares (210,000 acres) is the largest protected natural area of
Sicily, here is the largest forest of Sicily, called forest Caronia, that is also the second name
of Nebrodi Mountains. The Hundred Horse Chestnut (Castagno dei Cento Cavalli), located
on Linguaglossa road in Sant'Alfio, on the eastern slope of Mount Etna is the largest and
oldest known chestnut tree in the world, dated between 2000 and 4000 years.
Fauna
Sicily has a good level of faunal biodiversity. Some of the species are cirneco dell'Etna, fox,
least weasel, pine marten, roe deer, wild boar, crested porcupine, hedgehog, common toad,
viper, golden eagle, peregrine falcon, hoopoe and black-winged stilt.
In some cases Sicily is a delimited point of a species range. For example, the subspecies
of hooded crow (Corvus cornix) occurs in Sicily, Sardinia and Corsica, but no further south.
The Zingaro Natural Reserve is one of the best examples of unspoiled coastal wilderness in
Sicily.
Agriculture
Sicily has long been noted for its fertile soil due to the volcanic eruptions in the past and
present. The local agriculture is also helped by the pleasant climate of the island. The main
agricultural products are wheat, citrons, oranges (Arancia Rossa di Sicilia IGP), lemons,
tomatoes (Pomodoro di Pachino IGP), olives, olive oil, artichokes, Opuntia ficus-indica (Fico
d'India dell'Etna DOP), almonds, grapes, pistachios (Pistacchio di Bronte DOP) and wine.
Cattle and sheep are raised. The cheese productions are particularly important thanks to the

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Ragusano DOP and the Pecorino Siciliano DOP. Ragusa is noted for its honey (Miele Ibleo)
and chocolate (Cioccolato di Modica IGP) productions.
Sicily is the third largest wine producer in Italy (the world's largest wine producer) after
Veneto and Emilia Romagna. The region is known mainly for fortified Marsala wines. In
recent decades the wine industry has improved, new winemakers are experimenting with less-
known native varietals, and Sicilian wines have become better known. The best known local
varietal is Nero d'Avola, named for a small town not far from Syracuse; the best wines made
with these grapes come from Noto, a famous old city close to Avola. Other important native
varietals are Nerello Mascalese used to make the Etna Rosso DOC wine, Frappato that is a
component of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG wine, Moscato di Pantelleria (also known as
Zibibbo) used to make different Pantelleria wines, Malvasia di Lipari used for the Malvasia
di Lipari DOC wine and Catarratto mostly used to make the white wine Alcamo DOC.
Furthermore, in Sicily high quality wines are also produced using non-native varietals like
Syrah, Chardonnay and Merlot.
Sicily is also known for its liqueurs as the Amaro Averna produced in Caltanissetta and the
local limoncello.
Fishing is another fundamental resource for Sicily. There are important tuna, sardine,
swordfish and European anchovy fisheries. Mazzara del Vallo is the largest fishing centre in
Sicily and one of the most important in Italy.
Itinerary of the expedition.
Sunday 28th
April
On arrival into Palermo and transfer to Villa Igiea where we will stay for 4 nights.
Monday 29th
April
We have a full day tour of Palermo where we visit the cathedral in Palermo central square.
From There we will visit the Porta Nuova. After which we visit San Giovanni degli Eremiti
near to royal palace with its Norman architecture and Arab roof. We also visit other places of
interest in central Palermo including the theatre. Before returning to the hotel we will finally
visit Villa Malfitano.
Tuesday 30th
April
Today we will visit Zisa Castle and its Islamic museum. Next we travel further West to visit
the Chinese palace located on the northern end of the Parco della Favorita. From here we will
visit the attractive seaside town of Mondello where we will have lunch. Located 15km South
of Palermo the Cathedral of Monreale is one of the greatest examples of Norman architecture
in the world. It sits on the slope of Monte Caputo, overlooking the fertile valley called “La
Conca d’oro” (the Golden Shell), famed for its orange, olive and almond orchards.
Wednesday 1st
May
This morning we visit Orto Botanico di Palermo. The original arrangement was to travel
lunch to Villa Tasca Camastra where will be guided around the gardens. Unfortunately this
site wasn’t possible to visit, so we have to change plan and visit Castello di San Marco, a
garden nearby, which will reveal itself as a real unexpected surprise.
Thursday 2nd
May
This morning we set off in good time to visit the vineyard at Tasca d’Almerita; the drive (2.5
hours) take us along the coast before we head into the mountains of the interior. After lunch

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we take a tour around the cookery school, adjoining flower and herb garden with afternoon
tea at cookery school, afterwhich we retire back to the farm house for the wine tasting and
dinner.
Friday 3rd
May
After a leisurely breakast take a tour around the vineyard before we check out and travel
through the centre of the island through a largely agricultural area South to Agrigento. We
aim to arrive in Agrigento at lunch time; then we have an hour or two to explore the town
(they have a good museum) & have lunch before we will check into Hotel Baia Di Ulisse for
1 night.
Saturday 4th
May
This morning we have a half day walking tour of Agrigento. Later we have the tour of the
famous archaeological park. Then we have a little time at your leisure before we board the
bus at 15:00 for our transfer to Modica.
Sunday 5th
May
This morning we have a walking tour of Modica. After our tour we have some time at leisure
before we transfer to Siracusa.
Monday 6th
May
This morning we have a half day walking tour of Siracusa and the isle of Ortigia.
The island of Ortigia joined to the mainland of Siracusa by two bridges, is a fascinating web
of ancient buildings and narrow streets with two main piazzas buzzing with an assortment of
bars and cafes. After lunch we meet a local archaeologist who offers us the opportunity of a
visit to Villa Reinmann, a historic garden now close to the public. In the afternoon we have
some leisure time for exploring the city on our own.
Tuesday 7th
May
This morning we depart Siracusa for Marchesi Di San Giuliano (Villasmundo) where we are
given a tour by Head Gardener, Rachel Lamb. After a light lunch we travel to Contrada Case
Biviere Villa Borghese, Lentini where we tour the gardens with the owner Princess Borghese.
From here we then transfer to the Donna Carmela where we stay for our remaining 3 nights.
Wednesday 8th
May
This morning we depart for Catania Botanic Gardens for a private tour. Afterwards we walk
through Catania, enjoing the central streets and the local food market. Afterwards we visit the
garden at Il Giardino di Villa Trinita for a tour. We have lunch at the Villa befor we travel
north to Villa Manganelli Biscari at Viagrande. We return to Donna Camella in late
afternoon.
Thursday 9th
May
After breafast we leave the hotel for a tour of Mount Etna. Later in the afternoon we return to
the Donna Carmela where we have some time at leisure before our farwell dinner.
Friday 10th
May
This morning we check out of the hotel and travel to Taormina to visit Greek theatre, then
visit private garden Casa Cuseni. After lunch and a couple of hours at leisure in Taormina we
transfer to the airport for our flight to Gatwick airport.

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THE JOURNEY
Setting out
…
Sunday 28th
April
We arrive into Palermo at 11.00 a.m. It’s a beautiful, bright day. Not many clouds in the sky.
The temperature is around 20 C°, with a nice refreshing breeze from the coast.
Palermo on the North West coast of Sicily is the island’s capital city and one of its leading
ports. Of all Sicily’s cities, it most strikingly embraces all aspects of the island’s later history
from the Arab, Norman and Spanish invasions to the influences of the Belle Epoque era.
The differing styles of architecture and artistic treasures are a feast for the eyes, while the
city’s turbulent history is ever present in the busy streets. Visitors can sample the animated
local lifestyle in the enormous markets, particularly la Vuccaria, or delve into the historic past
in the Cathedral, huge churches like Santa Caterina, a splendid example of Sicilian Baroque,
museums, magnificent palaces, beautiful squares and a wonderful botanical garden.
We are met and transferred to Villea Igea where we check in for four nights.
This famous property has for many years been the discerning traveler’s favorite hotel in
Palermo. Located on the coast with wonderful views across the marina to the Bay of Palermo,
the hotel is just 10 minutes taxi ride from the heart of the city and offers a tranquil haven in
an idyllic setting. Built at the end of the 19th
Century by architect Ernesto Basile, this is a
masterpiece of Liberty Art Noveau style and still has much of the original furniture.
The garden of Villa Igea is interesting. Nick and I take advantage of some spare hours for a
bit of exploration around.
We come across some adult kapok specimens. In Sicily both true and false kapok have been
successfully cultivated over the years, the former being Ceiba pentadra, the latter Chorisia
speciosa. They are extremely similar plants and, in order to identify them, Nick introduce me
to the concept of cordiciform and pachycaul plants
Pachycauls are plants with a disproportionately thick trunk for their height, and few branches.
The word is derived from the Greek pachy (meaning thick or stout) and Latin caulin
(meaning stem). Cereus and Adansonia (Baobab tree) genera are in this group.
Cordiciforms are plants … (what’s the difference???) Nolina genus is in this group.
A stately specimen of Erythrina christa-galli is perhaps the most remarkable horticultural
feature of this garden.
Commonly known in the UK isles as ceibo or the cockspur coral tree, this is a flowering tree
in the family Fabaceae, native to Argentina, Uruguay, southern Brazil and Paraguay. It is
widely planted as a street or garden tree in other countries, most notably in California and
southern Italy. When in flower is just a red cloud. Nevertheless, we notice that it tends to be a
bit messy at the end of the flowering season, leaving some rubbish on the floor.
There is also a good collection of palms. Some Cycas revoluta is fruiting. Phoenix canariens
is the most used ornamental choice in its genus; it has a dense and elegant habit. Phoenix
dactilifera is also cultivated here.
In a narrow bed we notice a few Convolvolus malvaidoies. They are nice little flowers, in the
same genus of the field bindweed (C. arvensis).

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There are informal hedges of Hibiscus rosa-cinensis. Nick criticize the use of this plant for
hedging purposes, as, even being a fantastic (almost legendary plant), it does need a lot of
feeding.
Other interesting plants are Pittosporum tobira (with its vanilla-scented flowers),
Cinnamomum camphora and Shianus mollis.
Cosmopolitan planting schemes in the gardens of Villa Igea
Erythrina christa-galli Ceiba pentadra

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Cereus sp. Euphorbia viguieri
Pittosporum tobira Hibiscus rosa-cinensis

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In the afternoon we meet again for a visit to the Capuccini’s Catacombs. We travel through
the colorful roads and avenues of Palermo.
The choice of street trees is extremely interesting. A number of tender small trees are
cultivated, such as Platanus orientalis, Cercis siliquastrum, Ficus microphylla, Albizia
julibrissima, Sophora japonica, Popolus tremula, Tamarix gallica. In Palermo main square it
is even a group of Jacaranda mimosifolia, unfortunately not at its best this time of the year.
I confused Sophora japonica with Robinha pseudoacacia, but, looking closer, I notice the
arrangement of the pods along the stems.
Ficus microphylla is probably the most popular choice. It casts a very deep shade and takes
clipping very well. This is a plant which will accompany and mark our expedition.
Platanus orientalis is also a very interesting choice. It’s a beautiful, very elegant plane,
smaller than the common London plane. The bark is also slim and bright in color. It works
very well as a city plant because of its capacity to absorb the pollution. The drawback
consists in the fact that, during pruning and general tree working, it release the pollution
previously absorbed. Tree sergeant can work with this plant only a few hours daily.
Finally we arrive to the Cappuccini’s Catacombs.
Gory and perturbing, the catacombs are one of the city’s premier tourist attractions.
Here the mummified bodies of some 8000 Palermitans who died between the 17th
and 19th
centuries are now show. Originally the preserve of monks, the catacombs were eventually
opened to a select and moneyed few who made a substantial donations of land or money to
the monastery. For their pains, these lucky individuals were laid out “to drain” – ugh – after
death, before being washed with vinegar and powdered with arsenic and milk of lime. They
were then dressed in their Sunday best and propped up in their very own niche.
Earthly power, sex, religion and professional status are rigidly distinguished. Men and
women occupy separate corridors and within the women’s area there is a first-class section
for virgins.
Cappuccini’s Catacombs in Palermo

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Monday 29th
April
Bright and hot. Temperatures around 24 °C.
The day is split in two. In the morning we are having a tour within the place of historic and
architectural interest of Palermo. In the afternoon we are going to visit Villa Malfitano palace
and gardens.
Teatro Massimo
Built during the years 1875 and 1897 by
Giovanni Battista Basile and subsequently
his son, Ernesto, to celebrate the unification
of Italy, Teatro Massimo has become a
symbol of the triumph and tragedy of
Palermo itself. Its long story is symptomatic
of the conflicting powers that struggle or
supremacy in Palermo society – civil pride
and cultural creativity pitted against the
sinister shadows of Pirandellian bureaucracy
and Mafia control (which is said to have
been responsible for the extraordinary 24
years it took to restore). Appropriately the
closing scene of The Godfather III, with its
visually stunning juxtaposition of high
culture and low crime, drama and death, was
filmed here.
A stately specimen of Ficus robusta
Politeama Theatre
Palermo’s second theatre was designed in classical form by Giuseppe Damiani Almeyda
between 1867 and 1874. It was dedicated to Garibaldi and opened after the Italian unification.
It was built in the New Pompeian style, featuring a particularly striking façade that looks like
a triumphal arch topped by bronze chariots. The theatre is also home to the Galleria d’Arte
Moderna, installed in 1910 with an array of modern and contemporary Italian art.
Cathedral of Palermo
Ambitious builders, the Normans converted mosques and palaces, giving rise to the Arab-
Norman style that is unique to Sicily. Chief among these is the cathedral of Palermo, an
extraordinary feast of ziggurat crenellations, majolica cupolas, geometric patterns and blind
arches. Set back from the street, the foreground planted with palms, the Oriental impact is
enough to skew one’s compass.
Constructions began in 1184 at the behest of Palermo’s archbishop, Walter of the Mill
(Gualtiero Offamiglia), who was eager to challenge the supremacy of Monreale. Since then
the cathedral has been much altered, sometimes with great success – as in the three-arched
portico (which took 200 years to complete), a masterpiece of Catalan-inspired architecture –
and sometimes with less fortunate results, as in Ferdinando Fuga’s handiwork did not extend
to the exotic interlacing designs of Walter’s original cathedral.

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Although impressive in scale, the interior is a marble shell, a sadly unexotic resting place for
the royal Norman tombs, which contain the remains of two of Sicily’s greatest rules, Roger II
and Frederick II of Hohenstaufen. Halfway down the right aisle is a magnificent treasury,
whose most extraordinary exhibit is a tooth, extracted from Santa Rosalia, one of the patron
saints of Palermo. Her ashes are also kept here in a silver reliquary.
Porta Nuova
Next to the Palazzo dei Normanni is the Porta Nuova, built to celebrate the arrival of Carlos
V in Palermo in 1535 after a victory over the Tunisians. Designed in the Mannerist style, it
was partially destroyed by lightning in 1667 and rebuilt with the addition of the conical top.
More than 400 years later, it still serves as a demarcation line between the old and new city.
Palazzo dei Normanni
Unfortunately closed to the public today because of the fire change which took place in Rome
yesterday during the formation of the new Italian government.
Cathedral of Palermo Statues in the Porta Nuova

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San Giovanni degli Eremiti
Just south of the Palazzo dei Normanni, the Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti, is
Palermo’s best known example of the Norman-Arab architectural mix. Built under Roger II,
it is topped by five red domes and set in a pretty, tree filled garden with cloisters that offer
temporary respite from the chaos outside. The bare interior of the now deconsecrated church
features some badly deteriorated frescoes.
The garden is a smashing collection of Mediterranean, tropical and subtropical plants.
Among those, I record: Aloe arborescens, Asparagus sp., Buddleya sp., Buxus sempervirens,
Calocedrus decurrens, Ceratonia siliqua, Chamaerops humilis, Chamaedorea portulacoides,
Citrus aurantium, C. limon, C. deliciosa, C. paradisi, Clivia miniata, Cupressus
sempervirens, Cycas revoluta, Cydonia oblonga, Cyperus papyrifera, Dracena draco,
Duranta plumieri, Edera helix, Eryobotrya japonica, Ficus carica, Fortunella margarita,
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Howeia forsterana, Jasminum sp., Lantana camara, Laurus nobilis,
Monstera deliciosa, Musa x paradisiaca, Nerium oleander, Nolina longifolia, Olea europea,
Opuntia sp., Phoenix canariensis, Pinus halepensis, Punica granatum, Trachycarpus
fortunei, Thuja orientalis, Viburnum tinum, Washingtonia filifera, Wisteria sp., Yucca
australis and Y. Elephantipes.
Ceratonia siliqua Fruits of Monstera deliciosa
Tecoma stans Cyperus papyrifera

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Cycas revoluta Orobanche sp.

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Villa Malfitano Garden, in the Malfitano all’Olivuzza area, is one of the most outstanding
examples of what a family of English merchants, the Whitakers, who settled in Palermo in
the second half of the nineteenth century, were able to achieve, influencing the city’s
economy and taste in it and, subsequently, in other places of the island, becoming more than
a local reference point.
The land for building the villa was purchased in 1885. Building work began immediately.
The laying out of the park was began the following year with the leveling of the ground
around the mansion.
Of the total surface area of over 7 hectares (17acres), over 5 were destined to the park and
building complex, while the rest of the land continued to be used for citrus fruit trees. The
park alone, today, occupies a surface area of over 4 hectares (10 acres).
In the front part the paths were organized in the English fashion so as to alternate open spaces
with big plant masses and pools. Afterwards, the stretch beside the back part of the edifice
was mainly designed in Italian style, with little paths and plant elements placed geometrically
and in symmetry with the marginal distribution of the main masses, creating a courtyard
around the central building.
In a marginal position and somewhat sheltered position, there was also set out a corner rich in
romantic elements which are still partly existent: a hillock, a rivulet, a pool and even a little
underground maze.
Villa Malfitano

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Villa Malfitano can be defined a particular kind of botanic garden, as it is a real arboretum on
account of the nature of its flora, which is prevalently arboreal.
Among individuals especially worthy of mention there is an elegant and rare form of Ficus
magnolioides, an isolated and very rare example of Araucaria rulei, as well as an outstanding
exemplar of Yucca australis. Also unique is the exemplar of Yutia yatai.
But also noteworthy are the presences of Jubalea spectabilis, Phoenix reclinata, Nolina
longifolia, N. stricta, Dioon edule.
Also represented are some very fine dracaenas, frequent among which is “dragon’s blood”
from the Canary Islands, with the expressive characteristic look conferred on it by the double
ramifications.
Among the conifers, Thuja gigantean, Pinus banksiana and Sequoia sempervirens.
Altogether in the park flora there are about 250 species, mostly from tropical and subtropical
contries. However, there is no lack of Mediterranean species like Quercus ilex, Viburnum
tinus, and colonies of dwarf palms (Chamaerops humilis).
Villa Malfitano

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Rosa banksiae Ficus magnolioides
Araucaria rulei Agave americana

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Nolina sp. (stricta or longifolia???) Hedera hibernica
Tuesday 30th April
Bright and hot. Temperatures around 24 °C.
It’s the third day in Palermo. Crossing the center by coach, we can see the English Garden,
now public park, designed by Ernesto Basile in the late Nineteen Century.
In the morning we visit Zisa Castle and its Islamic museum. Located to the West of Palermo,
Zisa Castle dates back to the 9th
-11th
centuries and is one of the most attractive Arab style
buildings in Europe. Its name al-aziz means “the splendid one”. It was completed in 1167 on
the orders of Norman King William I de Hautville, but planned and constructed by Muslim
architects and workmen, showing how much the Normans admired the Arab world, copying
its lifestyles, ceremonies and customs. In the past ten years the house has been restored and a
new garden built in a “modern” Arabic style to the front of the castle.
Climbers are Bougainvillea glabra, Bignonia capreolata, Plumbago auriculata and
Jasminum grandiflora.

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Zisa Castle and Municipality Park

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Next we travel further west to visit the Chinese Palace located on the northern end of the
Parco della Favorita. This is one of Palermo’s strangest buildings, a large and fully decorated
Chinese palace. Built in 1799 for King Ferdinand III during the height of the European craze
for all things Oriental, the palace exhibits an eclectic mix of Chinese influenced architectural
styles. Set within the extensive Parco della Favorita the palace has a large Italian style
parterre garden to the rear.
Chinese Palace
Formal garden of the Chinese Palace

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From here we visit the attractive seaside town of Mondello where we have lunch. After that, a
little time to walk along the promenade or beach before being picked up for your journey to
Monreale.
Located 15km south of Palermo the Cathedral of Monreale is one of the greatest examples of
Norman architecture in the world. It was begun in 1174 by William II, and in 1182 the
church, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, was, by a bill of Pope Lucius III,
elevated to the rank of a metropolitan cathedral. The church is a national monument of Italy
and one of the most important attractions of Sicily.
The cathedral interior contains the largest cycle of Byzantine mosaics extant in Italy,
completed about 1200. The outsides of the principal doorways and their pointed arches are
magnificently enriched with carving and coloured inlay, a curious combination of three styles
(Norman-French, Byzantine and Arab).
To the rear is a cloistered courtyard with some traditional planting.
Monreale sits on the slope of Monte Caputo, overlooking the fertile valley called “La Conca
d’Oro” (the golden shell), famed for its orange, olive and almond orchards.
Cloistered courtyard of Monreale La Conca d’Oro di Palermo

30
Wednesday 1st
May
Sunny and warm.
This morning we visit the Orto Botanico di
Palermo.
The garden serves as a botanical garden and a
research and educational institution of the
Department of Botany of the University of
Palermo. The earliest beginnings of the
gardens go back to the 1779, when the
Accademia dei Regi Studi created the chair
of “Botany and medicinal properties”. A
modest plot of land was allocated to develop
a small botanical garden dedicated to the
cultivation of plants with medicinal benefits,
for the twin objectives of general learning
and improving public health. This initial
garden allotment soon proved insufficient for
the purposes for which it was intended, and
in 1786 it was decided to move to the present
site, right next to the Piano di Sant’Erasmo.
The new garden was opened in 1795. In the
ensuing years it was improved with the
Aquarium (1798), a great pool hosting
numerous species of aquatic plants and the
Serra Maria Carolina (Maria Carolina
Glasshouse), completed in 1823. The huge
Ficus macrophylla, which is an emblem and
well-known attraction of the modern garden,
was imported from Norfolk Island
(Australia), in 1845. Today’s garden, some
10 hectares (25 acres) was reached in 1892,
following successive extensions. The garden
lies some 10 meters above sea level on top of
red soil that has evolved on a calcareous
tufaceous substratum.
School of the Botanic Garden
Entrance of the Giardino d’Inverno
Aquarium

31
…
…
Cacti and frangipane collections

33
Cycas revoluta Chlorophytum comosum
Melaleuca glaberrima Orange trees planted in deep tree pits
Woodwardia radicans Cyrtomium falcatum

34
Osteomeles schwerinae Caffea arabica
Rhapis flabelliformis Wigandia caracasana
Abromeitiella brevifolia Abromeitiella brevifolia var. clorantha

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The Royal Palace of Palermo, seat of the Sicilian Assembly, rises on the edge pf the oldest
and most elevated edge of the city, right on a Phoenician settlement discovered in 1984.
During the Arabic domination the first portion of the palace was realized and named Quars, a
word that in Arabic means “castle” but also “fortress” with military competences. With the
Norman arrival, in 1072, reconstructing and amplifying works were started in order to
transform the fortress into a Royal Palace. In this period was the realization of the marvelous
Cappella Palatina. After a neglected period during the Angevin and Aragonese domination,
the Royal Palace was relaunched during the second part of the XVI century by the Spanish
viceroys. Therefore were realized new architectonic elements with military and representative
features adapted to the supervening and organizing necessities. The Borboun kings of Sicily
restored the palace commissioning the new decorations realized in Sala d’Ercole, a place used
for the meeting of the Assemblea Regionale Siciliana.
In the afternoon we visit Castello di San Marco.
The original plan was to visit Villa Tasca Camastra, unfortunately close today.
Castello di San Marco
Crassula portulacea
Anthyllis barbaigiovis
Ramnus alaternus
Ruscus hypoglussum traditionally used for edging in the historic Sicilian gardens. The reason
being, it requires little watering and is attractive because of the double interest of flowers and
red berries.

36
Desert Garden Desert Garden
Original Arabic irrigation system
Centenary specimen of Cerastonia siliquastrum Use of Ruscus Hypoglossum for hedging

37
Thursday 2nd
May
Slightly cooler than the previous days. Showers in the afternoon.
In the morning we climb up Monte Pellegrino.
Botanising Monte Pellegrino above Paermo
Olive, Stone pine
Euphorbia dendroides, Artemisia arborescens, Calendula sp., Helycrisum arborescens, H.
stocheas, Borago officinalis, Tordyllium apulum, Ferula communis (note the strategy of
pollination: a generic but really effective strategy, where a nice platform is provided for the
landing of insects), wild poppy, Echium (Boraginaceae, Magpie???, Pennywort (see photo),
Terrestrial orchids, Anagallis monellii, Sedum (see photo), Alyssum saxitallis, Sicilian Tee,
Bupleurum semicompositum, Sonchus, Nigella ciliaris, Wild barley, Broom Rape (Orobanche
ramosa, Ballota acetabulosa

38
Santolina chamaecyparissus Thistle to identify
Sedum sp. …
Bupleurum semicompositum …
Ferula communis

39
Then we are set off to visit the vineyard at
Tasca d’Almerita; the drive will take us
along the coast before we head to the
mountains of the interior. We can see the so-
called Small Sicily, the traditional local
small-scaled agriculture countryside of small
villages, tapestries f small fields with wooded
slopes and spring crops and wild flowers.
Artichoke, barley, faba vicia fields
Purple splashes of Hedysarum coronarium
(Leguminosae) grown both as animal crop
and for improving the soil (nitrogen fixing
plant)
Spartium junceum
Italian white elm
Solar farms
Pink gladiolus
Sicilian agricultural landscape (artichoke fields)
Sicilian agricultural landscape (vineyards)
Tasca d’Almeria is a fine wine producing estate with an aristocratic background. It was
founded in 1830 and has been the point of reference for ultra high quality wine for over 100
years. While Sicily gained an unfortunate reputation in the 1950’s – 80’s for making bulk
wine mostly used for blending, few wineries took the risky position of making fine wine.
Tasca d’Almerita, however, was one of the fabulous and few exceptions. These days, Sicily is
making some of the most exciting wines in Italy. The Tasca d’Almerita estate is set in
pristine countryside. The winery is located on the Regaleali estate close to Vallelunga
Pratameno and is one of the most beautiful in Sicily so far. While much of central Sicily is
dry and arid, the area around this wine estate is lush and verdant, with scenic rolling hills.
Both indigenous and international grape varietals are planted from the ubiquitous
Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon to flagship Sicilian varietals like Nero d’Avola, Nerello
Mascalese, Catarratto and Inzolia. Tasca’s wines are often blends of both local and foreign
varietals. This winery regularly gets top marks in the wine press and now has faithful
followers all over the world and exports to over sixties countries. Apart from vast stretches of
over 1000 hectares of vineyards, the estate is also a working farm cultivating a wide selection
of vegetables, herbs, fruits each planted at the right moment and in accordance with local
knowledge. Roses are grown which beautify the tables set in the salon of the baglio (farm
villa). A full time cheese maker is also on site.

40
View from Tasca d’Almerita Guyot technique (alberello: half standard)
Cordone speronato Testa di moro
500 hectares tot. 360 vineyard, 30 olives, 10 forest, rest agriculture (grano, seminativo)
5 lakes (the bigger being 3 hectares), all filled with rain water.
Triticum durum (grano duro) instead of the Triticum aestivum (grano tenero, frumento)
Dripping irrigation
All is carried out organically. Great attention to a sustanible use of the water. No pesticides.
No heavy machinery.
600 ml rain per year (mainly Sept-Dec)
5/6 bunches per plant
Great variety:
4 main peaks and also aspects
12 different soil composition
55 variety of grapes cultivated
Many training techniques
Two season for pruning (summer pruning, “pota verde”; winter pruning “pota secca)
Testa di moro: It’s carried out by keeping one young leader and bending it. In this way you
partially split the leader and reduce the vigour of the plant, permitting a kind of half standard
training.
Cordone speronato:

41
After lunch we take a tour around the cookery school cottage garden, adjoining flower and
herb garden with afternoon tea at cookery school, after which we retire back to the farm
house for the wine testing and dinner.
Clay soil here
Goditia (old-fashioned plant, not very popular now)
Cottage garden of the cookery school Clever planting
Cottage style Vyne pergola
Rosa banksiae Camomille in a courtyard

42
Friday 03rd
May
Very warm and sunny.
After breakfast we have time to explore the
Vinery.
Vinery at Tasca d’Almerita
We arrive in Agrigento about four in the
afternoon and we have time for visiting the
Giardino della Kolymbreta.
For years, Sicily’s ancient Kolymbetra
Garden, in Agrigento’s Valley of Temples,
had been left abandoned. It was only in
1999, when FAI (National Trust for Italy)
was awarded free concession of the garden
by the region of Sicily for 25 years, that the
five hectare garden was restored to its
original splendor. Today, Kolymbetra
represent an enchanting concentration of the
ancient agricultural and natural landscapes of
Southern Sicily: an earthly paradise amidst
the century old olive trees and archeological
ruins. Thanks to the restoration of the
garden, visitors are able to explore the
Mediterranean shrub rich in pistachia
lentiscus and broom, and make their own
way through the myrtle and tamerix to reach
the citrus grove, with its many ancient
varieties of lemon, orange and mandarin,
irrigated using the old Arabic system.
Giardino della Kolymbreta

43
View of the valley from the hillside Amazing Agave and its flowering stem
Centenary specimen of olive tree (Olea europaea)

44
Arundo donax – Saccarum officinarum not to be confounded!!!
Psoralea bituminosa
Wild Chrisanthemum and Helicrisum
Citrus myrtifolia “Chinotto”

45
Saturday 04th
May
Coller. Cloudy in the afternoon.
This morning we have a half day walking tour of Agrigento.
Agrigento (Akragas) was one of the most thriving centres of Greek civilisation in the 5th
century, B.C. A few miles away from the modern town, on a southern lower ridge, are sited
the great temples of the ancient city, surrounded by almond groves and ancient olive trees.
We will start at the Temple of Juno (Via Panoramica dei Templi). The tour of the
archaeological park starts with the Temple of Hera (Juno) built at the very top of the hill with
magnificent views of the landscape, coastline and the Mediterranean sea we will then walk
for about one mile downhill and stop along the main path to admire the city fortifications and
Byzantine arcosolia, the Temple of Concordia, the Temple of Herakles, the Temple of Zeus
and the Sanctuary of Chtonian Deities (Temple of Castor and Pollux). As you listen to your
guide you'll discover the secrets behind their construction, gain insight into the civilization
that produced them and get to know the personages that made ancient Akragas "the most
beautiful of mortal cities"
Valle dei Templi ad Agrigento
Prunus armeniaca (apricot tree and fruits) Rhamnus alaternus

46
We board the bus at 15:00 for our transfer to Modica.
Cathedral of Modica
Sunday 5th
May
Still dry and sunny. Around 23 °C.
This morning we have a walking tour of
Modica.
Modica, like the other towns in the Val di
Noto, was badly damaged in the 1693
earthquake and largely rebuilt in Sicilian
Baroque style. It is divided into two parts,
“higher” Modica and “lower” Modica, which
are connected by numerous flights of steps.
Palazzi and houses rise from the bottom of
the gorge seemingly stacked one on top of
the other. Magnificent churches, with their
inspiring domes, bell towers and intricate
facades, punctuate the red-tiled roofs and one
is struck by the uniform beauty of the whole.
The centrepiece is undoubtedly the beautiful
Church of San Giorgio, though the “Castello
dei Conti”, surveying the town from atop a
rocky outcrop, is also very impressive.
Typical of so many Sicilian towns, Modica
has a long and varied history, complete with
the usually toing and froing of successions of
invaders. The town is the location for
filiming of the popular BBC detective series
Inspector Montalbano. View of Modica

47
Rosario Gagliardi (1698–1762) was a Sicilian architect born in Syracuse. He was one of the
leading architects working in the Sicilian Baroque. In spite of never leaving Sicily his work
showed great understanding of the style, but was a progression from the style of baroque as
deployed by Bernini. He worked mostly in the Sicilian Baroque beginning with the cathedral
at Modica in 1702.
When evaluating his work at San Giorgio in Modica, and the domed Basilica of San Giorgio
in Ragusa (designed 1738, built 1744–66), it appears incredible that he was completely
untravelled. As the Sicilian baroque style evolved so too did the accomplishment of his work.
The Church of San Giorgio is thought to be the prototype for all the other churches in the
region. Gagliardi was also responsible for numerous other churches and palazzi in Noto and
other places on the island. He died in Noto in 1762 aged 64 years old.
Corbel è il mensolone
Modica: arenaria
Siracusa: pietra lavica, calcare bianco
Ragusa e provincia: important plant is karob
Siracusa: main crop is almond (many
varieties among which is “Pizzuta”)
Antonio Grimaldi: About importing of
cinnamon, chocolate... in Sicily
Travelling to Noto
Ancient specimens of carruba
Fields of triticum durum (crop rotation is
carried out with erba medica)
Grano duro requires less water then grano
tenero
Beautiful shrub To identify
Old specimens of karob scattered in the fields Ficus microphylla as street tree

48
After our tour you have some time at leisure before we transfer to Siracusa.
Siracusa is a historic city in Sicily, the capital of the province of Syracuse. The city is
notable for its rich Greek history, culture, amphitheatres, architecture, and as the birthplace of
the preeminent mathematician and engineer Archimedes. This 2,700-year-old city played a
key role in ancient times, when it was one of the major powers of the Mediterranean world.
Siracusa is located in the southeast corner of the island of Sicily, right by the Gulf of
Syracuse next to the Ionian Sea.
The city was founded by Ancient Greek Corinthians and became a very powerful city-state.
Siracusa was allied with Sparta and Corinth, exerting influence over the entire Magna Grecia
area of which it was the most important city. Once described by Cicero as "the greatest Greek
city and the most beautiful of them all", it later became part of the Roman Republic and
Byzantine Empire, after which Palermo overtook it in importance, as the capital of the
Kingdom of Sicily. Eventually the kingdom would be united with the Kingdom of Naples to
form the Two Sicily’s until the Italian unification of 1860.
In the modern day, the city is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site along with the
Necropolis of Pantalica. The inhabitants are known as Siracusans. Siracusa is mentioned in
the Bible in the Acts of the Apostles book at 28:12 as Paul stayed there.
We check into Hotel Roma for two nights The Hotel Roma is a four star hotel situated in the
heart of Ortigia Island, just a few steps from the Duomo Square, the ancient sacred site of
historical and artistic interest.
Warm atmosphere and the care of details make the hotel a place where guests delight in its
unique and intimate hospitality. Thanks to its central location, the hotel is the perfect base for
guests who want to enjoy the city's wonders, to visit its historic places, to walk in the narrow
streets and lanes that characterize the town centre. Built in 1880, traces of the hotel's past are
evident in the columns and vaulted structures.
It has welcomed in the past, renowned guests such as Paolo Orsi, the well known
archaeologist who lived here for several years, and the writer Elio Vittorini who choose this
hotel for his long stays in Siracusa.

49
Monday 6th
May
Sunny and warm. Temperatures around 23 °C.
Siracusa in Saracen, Byzantium and Bourbon times, the city suffered invasion and then
'salvation' from opposing forces. Siracusa, 'the fairest of cities' according to the Roman
Cicero, was a powerhouse of intellectual thought in that part of the Mediterranean colonised
by the Greeks.
Not surprisingly, Siracusa has a wealth of remains, including the pillars in the splendidly
simple Christian cathedral dating from the seventh century BC. Its magnificent 15,000-seat
theatre, the best preserved outside Greece, was the venue for the first nights of some plays by
Aeschylus, the greatest of Greek dramatists. Classical plays are still performed here today.
Siracusa archeological site Theatre of Siracusa
Urtica pilulifera is the Roman Nettle.
Caparis spinosa (see photo) “the plant you can’t plant”
Morus alba (White Mulberry)
Is the only mulberry useful for silt??? Production. When the Brits imported the mulberry to
the UK, they mistook the species, trying to use the Black Mulberry which is not useful for the
industry.
Pistacia
3 Mediterranean species
P. vera
P. (mastich tree)
P. travertina???
Stevia (South American tree???) as a substitute of sugar.

50
Morus alba
Pistacia vera Caparis spinosa

51
Just after lunch, we meet a local archeologist
and are kindly invited to visit Villa
Reimann, a private garden opened to the
public by appointment.
The garden is strongly linked to the history of
its old owner Christiane Reimann, who was
an emancipated and independent Danish-born
woman who moved to a southern country, far
and foreign in origin, but became her actual
home in time.
The villa dates back to 1881, originally
named Villa Fegotto, and became definitely
owned by Lady Reimann in 1936, after
unplesant and protracted legal matters started
years before. Lady Reinmann took much care
of the garden’s botanical assets, expanding
its planting, enriching exotic plant collections
and unearthing interesting archeological
remains.
Villa Reinmann was an important reference
point during the World War II by giving
support to the Red Cross, hosting tens of
refugees and being converted into Allies
force settlement. In such troubled times,
Christiane Reimann never left her home and
tried, while in great difficulty, to keep the
garden alive.
Since 1979, Villa Reinmann has been a
public garden owned by the Municipality of
Siracuse, after Lady Reinmann left in her will
with specific research and scientific culture
aims; today, it houses the headquarters of the
Archimedes University Consortium.In line
with the Mediterranean style, the garden has
terraces at different levels including citrus
groves and an Italian formal garden next to
the villa. The entrance path to the garden
finds its way through the orchardm lined by
limestone herms in Greek classic style. The
formal garden includes geometric beds
varying in shape and size with flowering or
evergreen hedges. Stone benches, decorative
pots and fountains are ornamental features in
the garden. A wooden gazebo stands out in
this area on a high natural stone base that
offers breathtaking views of the close
archeological park. Remains of the Greek
necropolis are also present, including some
The wooden gazebo
The view from there
Lemon trees

52
Byzantine tombs and part of Latomie, the
system of limestone caves once used to buil
the Greek city.
The garden hosts several majestic botanic
specimens, many Mediterranean plants and
exotics, some of which quite rare and unusual
in the Sicilian gardens, such as Synadenium
grantii (African milk bush), Ficus lyrata
(Fiddle-leaf fig), Casimoroa edulis (White
sapote), Syzigium cumini (Java plum).
There is a selection of palms, noteworthy of
which are Jubea chilensis and Sabal
palmetto. A large collection of cacti and
succulents can also be found in the garden
and these include many species of Opuntia,
Cereus, Euphorbia, Aloe, Aeonium,
Dasylirion.
The orchard hosts hundreds of citrus trees,
consisting of oranges, lemons and tangerines,
managed and improved by Lady Reinmann
herself who established old local cultivars,
such as the distinctive “Femminnello” of
Syracuse for lemons.
Varieties of citrus
To identify
The island of Ortigia joined to the mainland of Siracusa by two bridges, is a fascinating web
of ancient buildings and narrow streets with two main piazzas buzzing with an assortment of
bars and cafes; after the walking tour your will have to afternoon to explore the city on your
own.
Roman ruins in Ortigia Public pool filled with Cyperus papyrifera

53
Choice of Nerium oleander along the city street.
Nick is not very convinced about it. The plant is very
poisonous and potentially dangerous for childrens.
I add, it also requires same maintenance because of the
several shoots coming up during the growing season.
Nerium is a monospecific genus, a relict from the pre-
Mediterannean climate.
Nerium oleander as small street tree
Tuesday 7th
May
Sunny and warm. Dry. Temperatures around 25 °C.
This morning we depart Siracusa for Marchesi Di San Giuliano (Villasmundo) where we
will be given a tour by Head Gardener, Rachel Lamb.
The estate of San Giuliano has been owned by the family of the Marquis Paternò Castello di
San Giuliano for over 800 years. Situated between Catania and Siracusa, with Mount Etna in
the distance, the land is very fertile and cultivated mainly with citrus trees species, mostly
orange, but also lemon, lime, red grapefruit, mandarin, Nova clementine and bitter orange.
The first orange trees were planted here around 1800 as it was found that this region of Sicily
was particularly suited to the cultivation of Blood Oranges, which are unique to this area.
The San Giuliano farm covers around 55 hectares, 50 of which are dedicated to growing
varieties of citrus fruit. There are also ancient groves of Sicilian species of olives and nut
trees. The estate has for many years and continues to use traditional organic farming methods
with insect pests being controlled by beneficial insect predators known as biological control.
The estate has a small farm kitchen producing marmalades and biscuits following family
recipes, using only fresh fruit from the estate. Products are found in selected shops all over
the world. The garden has been planted to contain many exotic species including palms,
yuccas, agaves and fragrant shrubs and is laid out around the old house and farm buildings
with extensive views of the citrus groves and Etna beyond.
Fantastic mix of styles and influences.
Sicilian plants, Arab water infrastructures, British planting.
It was first born as a farm house garden.

54
The beautiful gate to the courtyard Giulio Veronese, Nick Wray, Sergio Cumitini
Exotic borders Exotic borders
Bamboo planting on the main lawn Borders

55
Ancient Arabic Well surrounded by palms Avenue to the fields
Melianthus major (when rubbed, leaves can leave in the finger a peanut butter flavour)
Phytolacca dioica
Stenotraphrom secundatum (gramignola) with Acetosella underneath
Festuca glauca under Yucca elephantipides
Jacaranda planted in a far corner of the garden, creating a nice blue carpet but not invading
the main lawn.
Shinus mollis with an underplanting of ferns. S. Mollis is edible but is better do not exagerate.
Murraya paniculata (see photo)
Dripping system around the Ficus magnolioides branches, in order to keep the plant fresh and
avoid to much leaves loss.
Brahea edulis (syn. B. eritra??) is another palm attacked by the red weevil of palms.
Doct. Metwaly fro Egypt seems to have find a cure for it.
Way for sowing capers is stick thei seed capsules into fig fruits. Then put everything in poor
soil or crevices.
Wingardia caracasana. Not very friendly to prune: can irritate the skin.
Head gardener Rachel Lamb and Nick Wray Giulio Veronese and Nick Wray

56
After a light lunch we travel to Contrada Case Biviere Villa Borghese, Lentini where will
we tour the gardens with the owner Princess Borghese.
Legend states that it was here that Hercules, a son of Jupiter's, offered the hide of the Nemean
lion he had defeated to Ceres, goddess of agriculture, and had a lake built, 'Lacus Erculeus',
which owes its name to him. At a later date this same lake was to be called 'Beverè' by the
Arabs, meaning ‘watering place for flocks and fish hatchery’. The Palermo State Archives
house the original document of King Marino's Edict (1392) documenting that the feud going
by the name of 'Il Biviere di Lentini' was granted to one of the maternal ancestors of the
present owners, Principe Scipione Borghese and his wife, Princess Maria Carla Borghese in
1968. Reclaimed in the thirties to combat malaria, the lake was deserted by fishers and
hunters alike and the house fell derelict.
The house was restored and the garden created by Princess Maria Carla Borghese, who
restored the house and created a truly unique Mediterranean garden out of the former lake
shore. Lush palms, blue Jacaranda, yellow flowering of Parkinsonia aculeata, old roses
intertwining with the Yucca’s and a remarkable collection of succulents flanking the old
harbour wall of the antique port make for a remarkable garden with some very fine specimen
plants.
Since 1968, under the nurturing hand of its last owners, Scipione and Maria Carla Borghese,
the barren land was changed into a flourish Mediterranean garden, which wonderfully
combines the historical value of the area with the extraordinary beauty of plants and nature.
Memories of the past are still kept alive within the old stone quays of the harbor, the guest-
house and the chapel of St. Andrew patron of fishermen, all of which are architectural
features as attractive as uncommon in a garden.
There is a large collection of plants, including yuccas, palms, olives, acacias, pines, big
poplar trees, jacarandas, and many other exotics of great ornamental value.
The garden comprises three levels naturally sloping with fully covered lawns and no paths or
borders. The stone piers have become attractive rock gardens hosting a sizeable collection of
succulents, very rich in specimens and variety of plants. A selection of Agave, Aloe, Opuntia,
Mammillaria, Echeveria, Euphorbia, Pachypodium, Yucca, Xanthorrhea, Dasylirion thrive
well outdoors and exhibit their amazing shapes and flowers. Where there had previously been
a harbour, today green lawns host huge specimens of Yucca elephantipes (spineless yucca)
like boats at anchor.
Remarkable is the collection of Bignoniaceae. Apart from Tecoma stan and Bignonia
capreolata, there is a fantastic specimen of Tabebuia ipe (the American bignonia).
There are also roses and flowering herbs and shrubs.

57
The main lawn in front of the house Parkinsonia aculeata
… Lodoicea maldavica (coco de mer) world’ largest seed
Salvia africana The collection of succulents

58
Tabuleia ipe
Plumbago To identify
Capparis spinosa Bench with a remarkable Cereus specimen

59
From Contrada Case Biviere Villa Borghese we will then transfer to the Donna Carmela
where we will stay for our remaining 3 nights.
Donna Carmela is a luxury boutique hotel owned and set amid Faro Piante the largest
Mediterranean plant nursery in Europe. This 19th-century Sicilian house has been expertly
refurbished to create a contemporary hotel with a calm and classy feel. From the house
extensive views fan out to the Medieterranean sea to the East and Mount Etna to the West.
Piante Faro's Mediterranean plant nurseries whose plants have been used to plant up the hotel
garden make this area a spectacular place.
Faro Piante nurseries (first terminal) Horticultural display at Donna Carmela
Wednesday 08th
May
Cloudy, dry. Temperatures around 20 °C.
This morning we depart for Catania Botanic Gardens for a private tour.
The Botanical Garden of Catania University is one of the few historic gardens found in the
heart of the city.
In 1858 today's garden was established by Benedectine monks and Professor Francesco
Roccaforte Tornabene, with first plantings in 1862 of specimens obtained from other
botanical gardens in Sweden, France, Naples, and Palermo. Originally on the outskirts the
Botanic Garden has been enveloped into the city and provides a green oasis in a dense built
up suburb.
The garden is divided into two main sections: the Hortus Generalis (13,000 m²) which
collects mainly exotic plants and the Hortus Siculus (3000 m²) which cultivates Sicilian
species. The Hortus Generalis is divided into squares, set off by limestone steps, with two
small greenhouses for succulents, a tropical greenhouse used primarily for the cultivation of
palms from seed and for cultivation of exotic plants including many economic plants, and
three circular tanks for aquatic plants. The general garden has a symmetrical layout consisting
of geometric flower beds marked by orthagonal paths, paved with a traditional geometric
pattern of black and white pebbles. The collection of palms and succulents are amongs the
most valued in the garde and are well renowned for their rich botanical diversity. Other
attractive collections include those of the cycads, frangipanes, water plants, medicinal plants
and many monumental trees.
The Hortus Siculus is divided into narrow rectangular flower beds bordered with lava stone,
containing plants arranged by family. The garden grows many fine specimens of cacti,
succulents and palms and has spectacular neoclassical administration buildings at its centre.

60
The Sicilian Garden provides a good rapresentation of the main natural landscapes in Sicily,
and is devoted to plant conservation. Sandy dunes, evergreen wood, Mediterrenean maquis,
rocky terrain, and artificial ponds allow wild flora to develop naturally and feature both
common and rare or threatened Sicilian species, which are here provided with an adequate
site of conservation. In the early 1900s the Sicilian Garden was further enhanced by creation
of the Giardino Botanico Nuova Gussonea on Mount Etna for cultivation of native mountain
plants.
The Tepidarium is a big was glasshouse that showcases several species of tropical plants,
including delicate palms, orhids and bromeliads; it was recently rebuilt the same as the
nineteenth-century one destroyed by booming in the II World War.
Main building Hortus generalis
Tropical pond in the Hortus generalis Hortus siculus

61
Marsilea quadrifoliata Marsilea quadrifoliata
Heliconia pendula Dioon edule
Nick Wray and Zelkova sicula
Zelkova sicula Zelkova sicula

62
Catania’s historic centre and market.
Beautiful fountan in Catania centre square
Catania market Stunning cauliflowers

63
Afterwards we visit the garden at Il Giardino di Villa Trinita for a tour.
Villa Trinita is located on a rural estate in Mascalucia which has belonged to the Bonajuto
family for at least eight generations. The garden is full of native and exotic species; agavae,
plams, aloes, strawberry trees and pomegranates. The garden has many artifacts incluiding
raised terracotta ‘saje’ for irrigating orchards and ‘gebbia’ for collectiong water devised by
ancient Arab culture.
the owener Salvatore Bonajuto original Arabic irrigation system
an impressive well and irisis in the foreground
Tree features A reinvented Philippe Stark’s sofa

64
Ippolito Pizzetti
Mallo di Mandorle (see photo)
Ceratostonia siluquastrum has male, female and ermaphrodite flowers. Quite special plant.
Quercus pubescens (Ita common is Roverella)
Celtis australis or C. aetenensis in the picture???
Geranium maderanensis (endangerad now in the Canary Islands. It should be planted in the
shade)
Dahlia imperialis (up to three meters!!!)
Saia is the ancient Arab irrigation system; the one here wa built only 50 years ago. Gebbia is
the other Arabic word
Use of the beautiful Loropetalum chinensis in the allotment.
We have lunch at the Villa befor we travel north to Villa Manganelli Biscari at Viagrande.
Covering nearly five acres this histroic garden of the Princes Manganelli Biscari contains
many elements of its original neoclassical design. Typical of an eighteenth century Scilian
garden in the French Renaisssance style, full of classism, baroque theatre and botanical
exuberance. The Villa as seen today is the result of modidifications by the Milanese architect
Carlo Sada of floral Art Nouveau. The garden contains many fine trees and shrubs and
beautiful buildings some adapted and modified by the present owner.
Villa Manganelli Biscari (internet database) Villa Manganelli Biscari (internet database)

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Thursday 9th
May
Warm, sunny day. Temperatures around 23 °C.
Misty and windy on the Mount Etna. Temperatures around 5 °C.
After breafast we will leave the hotel for a
tour of Mount Etna.
Leavinging the motorway we drive up the
Etna Sud road through a continuously
changing landscape of trees, lava flows and
endemic plants.
Passing through the charming little villages
of Santa Venerina and Zafferana Etnea we
start climbing the slopes.
Approaching the summit, the Mediterranean
garrigue gradually gives place to a typical
temperate Mediterranean forest. Soil here is
known to be incredibly fertile and rich in
nutrients and minerals.
The Mount Etna generates its own
microclimate. Ferns are present as well as
deciduous shrubs and trees. It’s probably our
first time during this trip noticing ferns.
Pinus nigra var. maritima (subsp.
Mauritio????), Quercus ilex (the most
common oak in the Mediterranean), Rubus
ssp., Genista aeteniensis.
It’s interesting to notice how the plants
colonize the lava slopes. Genista and
Centranthus are pioneers. Leguminosae also
help to fix the necessary nitrogen for the next
stage, when Fraxinus ornus and Quercus ssp.
take place.
Climbing up we see Anthemis aetnensis and
Eryssimum bonnanium. Also many endemic
flowers now.
As we climb further we leave the deciduous
trees and shrubs area and we gradually enter
in the sub-alpine zone.
The last vegetative forms able to survive the
altitude and the severous conditions are
cushion plants. This form is actually a very
successful strategy in this kind of extreme
environment. More wind resistance.
We record: Scleratus aetnensis, Viola alba
sub. denhardii, V. aetnesis, V. bertolonii sub.
messanensis.
Mount Etna peak

66
Finally we reach Rifugio Sapienza. Upon arrival we will visit the area of Crateri Silvestri
(about 2,000m or 6.000 ft) and see the effects of recent eruptions. From Rifugio Sapienza we
join an organized excursion (over two hours) to the top. We first take a cable car ride
(enclosed gondala) for a further 500 meters. Here we can admire superb views of Catania and
and the sea, walk to the Piccolo Rifugio or have a snack or a drink at the café. The more
adventurous can further take a 4x4 drive to reach the summit at 2,900 meters where Alpine
guides escort people on foot to places of interest.
After a quick brunch we start declimbing the slopes.
We stop three times to botanise the area and observe the changes of environment and flora.
First stop (sub-alpine zone)
Succession of vegetative colonization: a) cushion, b) mats, c) conifers
Plant recorded:
Astragalus siculus
Grasses
Linum
Eryssimum
Leguminosae
Anthimis ssp.
Rumex scutesus var. aetnensis
Unidentified Compositae plant (see flat seed cap)

67
Cushion plants Astragalus siculus
Second Stop (200meters circa below)
Few deciduous and evergreens trees and shrubs. Also brambles.
Quercus pubescens, Lathyrus (with variation in colour), Orobanche sp., still many
Eryssimum, Carlina nebrodensis, Scleranthus perennis sub. vulcanicus, Silene vulgaris (syn.
S. sicula) – the catch fly plant (it sticks your finger if touched), Anthimus aetnensis (white
flowering, daisy-like plant), Centranthus.
Anthimus aetnensis and Orobanche sp. Anthimus aetnensis
Scleranthus perennis sub. vulcanicus (double check) Silene vulgaris (syn. S. sicula)

68
Third Stop (Mediterranean garrigue)
The third site botanised
Brooms (Spartium junceum and Calicotome
infesta)
Scrophularia sp.
Echium vulgare var. pustulatum
Brisa maxima (quaking grass)
Anchusa (one of the best blue flowering
plant we’ve seen)
Trifollium
Gallium aetnicum
Inula
Ferns (Cyopteris and Asplenium spp)
Tamus communis
Cineraria sp.
Isatis tinctoria var. canescens
Asphodeline lutea
Brooms, echiums, grasses

69
To identify Brisa maxima
Calicotome infesta To identify
Anchusa One more photo here

70
Smirnium perfoliatum Gallium aetnicum
Muscari sp. Cineraria sp.

71
Faro Piante Nurseries.
Giuseppe Scannella is the building architect responsible for the works of the Show Room of
Faro Piante. The area enjoy a fantastic natural soil and microclimate (minimum temperatures
are 6-7 °C). The soft landscaping project is by Faro Piante itself. It was born as a family
business. 400 hectares of nurseries. Divided in four terminals. Demonstration area outside
(Santolina, tree ferns)
Faro Piante Nurseris Faro Piante Nurseries
Faro Piante (Archontophoenix alexandrae on the left) Archontophoenix alexandrae
Faro Piante Agave nursery

72
Friday 10th
May
Warm, Sunny, dry. Temperatures around 22 °C.
Dawn on the Mount Etna slopes
This morning we check out of the hotel and travel to Taormina to visit Greek theatre, then
visit private garden Casa Cuseni.
The most remarkable monument remaining at Taormina is the ancient theatre the teatro
greco, or "Greek theatre", which is one of the most celebrated ruins in Sicily, on account both
of its remarkable preservation and of the surpassing beauty of its situation.
It is built for the most part of brick, and is therefore probably of Roman date, though the plan
and arrangement are in accordance with those of Greek, rather than Roman, theatres. The
present structure was rebuilt upon the foundations of an older theatre of the Greek period.
With a diameter of 120 metres (after an expansion in the 2nd century), this theatre is the
second largest of its kind in Sicily (after that of Siracusa); it is frequently used for operatic
and theatrical performances and for concerts. From the fragments of architectural decorations
still visible illustrating theatre is of the Corinthian order, and richly ornamented. Some
portions of a temple are also visible, converted into the church of San Pancrazio.
Taormina The Greek Theatre of Taormina

73
Next we travel to Casa Cuseni.
Created by Robert Hawthorn Kitson in 1873-1947, who visited Sicily for health reasons and
decided to stay. The house and garden built into the hillside are testiment to his professional
skill as an engineer. It represents an outstanding example from a short period when British
domestic designs were a great influence in Europe, and when Italy had taken up the style
Liberty for her own use. The house built on a series of small terraces has dramatic views over
Etna, the bay of Naxos and the roof tops of Taormina. Combining Renaisance elements
mixed with Rococo sense of fun. A rich profusion of plants are planted onto each terrace
originally carved from the rock by local women to cultivate almonds.
Casa Cuseni, with its gardens, furniture and paintings is a Casa Museo, a significant
contribution to Italian architectural design which has uniquely maintained its associations
with the arts in England and Italy at the beginning of this century. The House was Robert
Kitson's primary residence for forty years, and represented part of his devotion to Taormina.
A sign of his evaluation in the town was the urgent request for his return to the Commune
after Second World War, when he was appointed President of the Commission established to
supervise the reconstruction of the bomb-damaged town. That the Corso and piazza of old
Taormina still preserve so many of their historic features, which Kitson's own art celebrated
can be attributed to his influence and great contribution to the town.
Casa Cuseni Casa Cuseni

74
Vine Pergola The way to the secret garden
the Secret Garden Pebbled patio by the fountain

75
Contained display of succulents (Crassula arborescens, Senecio ficoides, Aeonium arboretum “Swartzkop”)
Stunning Coleonema

79
APPENDICES
Glossary
Alpine flora: includes plant species that inhabit mountains or the Alps in particular, above the
tree-line (i.e. 6560-7220 ft / 2000-2200 m).
High-mountain flora: when referring to plant species that grow at very high altitudes.
Mountain (montane) flora: refers to plants whose natural home is the montane zone (1500-
2000 m in the middle latitudes). They are usually well-forested.
Macchie (Garrigue, Maquis): a scattered or dense community of evergreen shrubs and small
trees, usually 1-3 m height in the Mediterranean Regions.
Phrygana: a more open community of dwarf evergreen shrubs, which allows smaller plant
and bulbous species to flourish. Grazing maintains this habitat.
Oak scrub: this is a type of Phrygana where dominant tree is Quercus species such as
Quercus coccifera, Q. petraea, Q. libani, Q. infectoria.
Serpentine: a dull green or dark reddish rock which, because of its mineral content, supports
little but often interesting vegetation.
Steppe: dry, open grassland, often dominated by plants that are resistant to grazing.
Endemism: the ecological state of being unique to a defined geographic location, such as an
island, nation or other defined zone, or habitat type. The extreme opposite of endemism is
cosmopolitan distribution.

81
REFERENCES
Bibliography
Flowers of the Mediterranean, Oleg Polunin and Anthony Huxley, 1990 Redwood Burn.
Mediterranean Wild Flowers, Maryorie Blamey and Christopher Grey-Wilson, 1993
HarperCollins.
Piante rare della Sicilia. Testi e immagini di 500 entità endemiche e rare dell’Isola e dei
territori limitrofi, Girolamo Giardina, 2010 Università degli Studi di Palermo.
Pomelia Felicissima. Storia, botanica e coltivazione della Plumeria a Palermo, A. Carapezza
P. Puccio M. Speciale, 2005 Kalós.
Giardini Mediterranei tra Sicilia e Malta, AAVV, 2012 Morrone Editore.
Il Giardino di Villa Malfitano, AAVV, 1995 Fondazione Giuseppe Whitaker.
Il Giardino della Kolymbeta, AAVV, 2012 FAI.
Faro Nurseries Catalogue. Thinking Green, Growing Green, 2013 Faro.

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PLANT INDEX
Numbers in Italic type indicates the entries
Numbers in Bold type indicates the illustrations.
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