Natural Products Insider magazine article November 2021 by Monet Euan

6
Natural ProductsInsider | Healthy aging: Personal care November 2021
IN THIS ISSUE Viewpoint p.4 Trends: Vegan beauty p.14 Table of contents p.2
Trends: Beauty from within
C
urrent demand in the natural products market indicates consumers are
giving thoughtful attention to self-care as a powerful way of creating
beauty and health from the inside out.
According to the “2021 Condition Specific Report” from Nutrition Business Journal (NBJ),
beauty-from-within supplements grew by 7.2% in 2020, up from 3.3% in 2019. Consumers are enjoying
the ingenuity of a wide array of products that incorporate efficacious ingredients into formulas easily
integrated into daily routines.
Consumers are looking for synergistic, integrity-driven offerings that multitask based on the latest
science. As the market continues to expand and evolve, product manufacturers are becoming better
versed (and more versatile) in using hallmark ingredients that work in harmony with the body’s innate
intelligence. Several key ingredient trends are influencing today’s natural marketplace.
Collagen
A chapter on collagen in the text “Molecular Cell Biology” noted collagen
is the most abundant protein in the body, and an essential component of
connective tissue. While the body makes its own collagen, its formation tends
to decrease with age. Collagen can be found in foods such as bone broth or
via supplement, such as collagen powder taken orally.
The market for collagen continues to enjoy popularity thanks to the
ingredient’s association with a wide range of potential areas of benefit (e.g.,
muscles, ligaments, joints, skin, nails, etc.). In the aforementioned NBJ report,
senior analyst Claire Morton Reynolds stated, “With double-digit growth
beginning in 2014, collagen went from less than 8% of the beauty-from-within market to the second
single-largest ingredient and 17.5% market share.”
Collagen is showing up in a wide range of products. The health-and-wellness staple is found in trendy
beauty powders for smoothies, latte mixes, luxury dark chocolate bars, bottled specialty drinks, protein
powders, paleo cookies and protein bars. Skin care companies are also using collagen in topical products
such as creams, serums and face masks.
Thus far, the hype appears well-deserved. In a review of 11 studies, oral collagen supplementation was
tied to increasing skin hydration, elasticity and dermal collagen density—positively impacting a variety of
aging and skin concerns.1
A randomized, placebo-controlled, blind study using the collagen supplement Elasten demonstrated
that age-related reduction in collagen synthesis can be reversed with specific bioactive collagen
In-depth ingredient trends for natural
skin, hair and oral health care
by Monet Euan

7
peptides in combination with other dermonutrients such as acerola, vitamin C, zinc and biotin.2
Oral
intake was shown to increase skin elasticity, hydration and density after three months. According to
the study, while topicals such as creams and lotions may fail to reach the deeper layers of the skin (the
dermis) to make a lasting influence on skin aging, oral administration may be able to reach beyond the
epidermis to the dermis.
A double-blind, placebo-controlled study administering oral doses of collagen hydrolysate daily for
eight weeks resulted in statistically significant improvement in skin elasticity compared to placebo.3
And
in a double-blind, placebo-controlled study administering BioCell Collagen (a hydrolyzed chicken sternal
cartilage from BioCell Technology), participants experienced a significant decrease in facial lines, wrinkles
and crow’s-feet, as well as a significant increase in skin elasticity and collagen content.4
In terms of dental health, studies suggest bovine collagen may help heal gum recession via collagen
implants.5
In a separate evidence-based systematic review of 15 articles, collagen was shown to
enhance regeneration of gingival tissues without any adverse effect.6
Further studies are recommended
to understand the mechanism behind the tissue repair in hopes of yielding more information and
potential applications.
Top 5 products
1
Vital Proteins Collagen
Peptide Powder (20 oz.)
2
Sports Research Collagen
Peptides
3
Vital Proteins Collagen
Peptide Powder (9.33 oz.)
4
Live Conscious Collagen
Peptides
5
Ancient Nutrition Collagen
Powder with Probiotics
For the 12-month periods ending
September 2020 and September 2021
Top 5 brands
1 Vital Proteins
2 Sports Research
3 Ancient Nutrition
4 LiveWell Labs Nutrition
5 Great Lakes
Average price rose from
$29.85 to $30.35
YoY
growth
Amazon trends: Collagen
Source: Data provided by Dan Harari, head of business development for ClearCut Analytics, a retail insights and e-commerce services provider based in Chicago.
62%
Market share and growth insights
Collagen
source,
market share
Beef
Collagen
source,
growth
Beef
64%
74%
Delivery type,
market share
Powder
Delivery type,
growth
Powder
66%
86%

8
Ceramides
Ceramides are the fat molecules, also known as lipids, that the body
naturally produces to form a protective skin barrier. These lipids secrete a
hydrating substance that creates the impermeable outer layer of the skin to
lock in moisture and protect skin from toxins, irritants, allergens, other external
elements and oxidative stress.7
This layer is essential for healthy skin. With
age, ceramide levels can decrease. Both oral supplementation and topical
application have been found to replenish and restore the skin’s barrier function
and promote regenerative anti-aging benefits.
In a study testing a ceramide cream (QV Intensive with Ceramides – Light Moisturizing Cream) along
with a placebo and three additional topicals, the ceramide cream increased skin hydration and improved
barrier function significantly more than the placebo and other topicals.8
Oral supplementation of ceramides
has also shown beneficial for skin health, demonstrating significant improvements in skin dryness,
hyperpigmentation, redness, itching and oiliness with oral intake of Amorphophallus konjac tubers
standardized to 5% glycosylceramides in a placebo-controlled clinical trial.9
Ceramides are most commonly found in products for skin care, such as face creams; hair care, such
as shampoos, conditioners and hair masks; and oral supplements. Some studies also suggest ceramides
could play an important role in stimulating hair growth, but further studies are needed.10
Niacinamide
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. Popular in
topical face creams, serums, toners and face masks, the ingredient has shown
to be a safe and effective way to decrease hyperpigmentation issues such as
melasma, uneven skin tone and brown spots.11
Its numerous anti-inflammatory
properties may also benefit people struggling with acne and rosacea.
Niacinamide offers anti-aging benefits as well, such as having a stabilizing
effect on the epidermal barrier function, demonstrating a reduction in water
loss and an improvement in moisture content.12
The ingredient has been tied to
a stimulating effect on ceramide synthesis, raising intracellular nicotinamide (NADP) levels, improving skin
surface structure and reducing wrinkles. The same study concluded that, “because of its verifiable beneficial
effects, niacinamide would be a suitable component in cosmetic products for use in disorders of epidermal
barrier function, for aging skin, for improving pigmentary disorders and for use on skin prone to acne.”
Natural skin care and makeup companies are actively formulating with the ingredient. Ilia Beauty, for
example, touts niacinamide as one of the primary actives in its multifaceted, award-winning Super Serum
Skin Tint SPF 40, which can be used as a primer, tinted moisturizer or foundation.
Of note, oral supplementation studies of niacinamide have also shown
promise as a preventive for some skin cancers.13,14
Glutathione
Glutathione received extra attention this past year as a supplement
mainstay in many viral protocols to help boost and protect the immune
system.15
Often referred to as the “master antioxidant” of the body, it
protects cells from oxidative stress and is considered “a critical regulator”
of immune function.16
The body makes glutathione naturally, but stores tend

10
to deplete with age and other factors like chronic illness, poor diet, stress, environmental pollution
and toxins. However, studies have indicated daily oral consumption is effective in increasing the body’s
glutathione levels.16
The multifaceted ingredient can be produced in oral or topical forms targeting a variety of health and
beauty concerns. Glutathione may aid in lightening hyperpigmentation and melasma,17
with topical
application of an oxidized format yielding a significantly lower skin melanin index than placebo.18
Additionally, in the latter half of the topical study period, glutathione-treated sites logged significant
increases in moisture content of the stratum corneum, fewer wrinkles and improved skin smoothness.
In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel three-arm study, the middle-aged women
who took oral glutathione or an oxidized form experienced significant reduction in wrinkles and an
increase in skin elasticity compared with placebo.19
Pearl powder
Pearl powder, a popular skin and bone remedy in traditional Chinese medicine
(TCM), comes from fresh water pearls or mother of pearl that are ground into a fine
powder and sold as a powder supplement or added to skin care and dental products.
High in calcium, minerals, amino acids and protein, pearl powder has
shown in animal studies to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging,
immunomodulating and wound-healing properties.20
And a human study
demonstrated pearl powder to be a powerful antioxidant with potential
application in age-related degenerative disorders.21
The ingredient is making an appearance in everything from artisanal dark chocolate bars, such as the
non|verbal brand’s adaptogenic chocolate line, to Living Libations’ Perfect Pearl Powder, which boasts
dual use for “polished skin + pearly whites” (teeth). And Agent Nateur’s coveted cult favorite, “holi(mane)”
combines pearl powder and marine collagen in an oral supplement for hair, skin and nails that can be
mixed into any raw food or beverage, including tea, coffee, smoothies, sauces, desserts and dressings.
The applications are endless.
Probiotics
Probiotics are a variety of living microorganisms on and inside the body that
may make positive contributions such as strengthening the immune system and
balancing the digestive system and oral microbiome.22
These beneficial bacteria
can be found naturally in fermented foods such as yogurt, kefir and fermented
vegetables, and they are also widely consumed in supplement form. Applications
span a variety of dental products and formulations, as well as personal care products
like face cream, serum, toner, soap, skin care masks, hair care and deodorant.
Manufacturers are also combining probiotics with prebiotics (a pairing known
as synbiotics), as well as postbiotics into oral and topical product formulations. Prebiotics stimulate
the growth of probiotics and provide an environment for them to grow and thrive. Postbiotics are a
probiotic byproduct, defined in a 2020 study as, “Any substance derived through the metabolic activity
of a probiotic microorganism, which exerts a direct or indirect beneficial effect on the host.”23
The study
showed specific postbiotics were as effective as benzoyl peroxide for mild to moderate acne and may
reduce wrinkles and sagging skin.

11
Today’s consumers want to take care of their bodies while simultaneously protecting and supporting
their natural microbiome—without sacrificing one for the other. ROELMI HPC and Synergio are among
the companies prioritizing the development of products that work holistically in supporting the body’s skin
microbiome. ROELMI’s EquiBiotics LRh ingredient is derived from the probiotic L. rhamnosus LRH020,
which works with the skin’s ecosystem, strengthening and protecting the skin’s natural defenses. Similarly,
Synergio’s BiomEco is an antimicrobial, antifungal solution that protects the skin microbiome while
contributing to a skin care product’s shelf life as compared to some skin care preservatives that can harm
or kill beneficial microorganisms on the skin.
Dental health product manufacturers are also incorporating probiotics, with some motivated by the
prevalence of oral microbiome dysbiosis and its relation to other systemic conditions such as auto-immune
disease and cancer.24
Orasana, created by periodontist and certified nutritionist Sanda Moldovan, is a
chewable breath mint containing different probiotic strains to support the healthy oral biofilms present in
a well-balanced mouth—as opposed to killing every strain in the mouth (the goal, or at least outcome, of
many standard mouthwashes and toothpastes). According to Moldovan, “Periodontal treatments typically
have concentrated on eradicating all bacteria equally; however, more recently an emphasis has been placed
on rebuilding a healthy biofilm. The oral use of probiotics and prebiotics as adjuncts to periodontal treatment
has shown promising results in the past few years and needs to be explored further.”25
Sea buckthorn oil
Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) oil is extracted from the berries and
seeds of sea buckthorn fruit, containing approximately 190 bioactive substances,
which explains its many powerful applications.26
Most commonly used internally
or topically, the ingredient is also found in hair care, such as shampoos and
conditioners, given its ability to condition and strengthen damaged hair, as well
as prevent hair loss.27
Sea buckthorn oil is currently trending in skin care and cosmetics. With beauty
influencers popularizing the facial oil cleansing method or double cleansing
method in the recent past, sea buckthorn oil has become a staple because of its ability to moisturize
without stripping or breaking out the skin. Danna Omari, esthetician and owner of Noy Skincare in New
York City, claims that the holistic studio’s bestselling facial cleansing oil featuring sea buckthorn oil has the
ability to reset the skin and bring it into balance regardless of skin type, while also being especially helpful
for those with inflammation and breakouts. Used as a cleansing oil, moisturizer, facial oil or supplement,
sea buckthorn oil is chock-full of fatty acids and vitamins with powerful antioxidant properties.27
Creative approaches to branding and product positioning –
podcast
Marc Brush, principal at the Bend consultancy, honed his market
research bona fides running Nutrition Business Journal, but now he’s
helping shape the pursuit of personalized health care and nutrition.
naturalproductsinsider.com/branding-marketing/creative-approaches-
branding-and-product-positioning-podcast

12
The balance of fatty acids in sea buckthorn oil make it helpful for dry, flaky or aging skin, strengthening
the lipid barrier; and its unique unsaturated fatty acids, such as omega-7 and omega-6, are ideal for skin
regeneration and repair.26
The ingredient also has the ability to penetrate the epidermis, where it can protect
against infection and inflammation, as well as inhibit the aging process—a plus for toning mature sagging
skin and discouraging wrinkles. Sea buckthorn oil can also stimulate wound healing and collagen synthesis.
The beauty-from-within sector is on course to continue flourishing. Maria Stanieich, marketing manager
for Kyowa Hakko, the makers of Setria Glutathione, added, “There will continue to be a demand for
scientifically proven and clinically safe ingredients to attract and build trust as consumers are using a range
of supplements to ensure they are getting the necessary ingredients to fortify and manage their health.”
Consumers are more informed than ever, with many adept at understanding the data being provided
in a marketplace full of options. They understand the direct interconnection between internal health,
external beauty and overall wellness, and natural product manufacturers are rising to meet that demand in
profound and exciting new ways.
Monet Euan is a freelance writer and editor, passionate about health & wellness and committed to supporting others by sharing holistic tools
to elevate mind, body and spirit. For more information, please visit moneteuan.com.
References
1 Choi F et al.“Oral Collagen Supplementation:A Systematic Review of Dermatological Applications.” J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(1):9-16.
2 Bolke L et al.“A Collagen Supplement Improves Skin Hydration, Elasticity, Roughness, and Density: Results of a Randomized, Placebo-Controlled, Blind Study.” Nutrients. 2019;11(10):2494.
3 Proksch E et al.“Oral supplementation of specific collagen peptides has beneficial effects on human skin physiology: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study.” Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(1):47-55.
4 Schwartz S et al.“Novel Hydrolyzed Chicken Sternal Cartilage Extract Improves Facial Epidermis and Connective Tissue in Healthy Adult Females:A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial.”Altern
Ther Health Med. 2019;25(5):12-29.
5 “Cow collagen heals gums.” Br Dent J. 2012;212:264.
6 Naomi R et al.“Current Insight of Collagen Biomatrix for Gingival Recession:An Evidence-Based Systematic Review.” Polymers (Basel). 2020;12(9):2081.
7 Berkers T et al.“Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin.” Pharm Res. 2018;35(3):48.
8 Spada F et al.“Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems.” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018;11:491-497.
9 Venkataramana S et al.“Potential benefits of oral administration of AMORPHOPHALLUS KONJAC glycosylceramides on skin health – a randomized clinical study.” BMC Complement Med Ther. 2020;20(26).
10 Oh J et al.“Synthesized Ceramide Induces Growth of Dermal Papilla Cells with Potential Contribution to Hair Growth.”Ann Dermatol. 2019;31(2):164-174.
11 Navarrete-Solis J.“A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% versus Hydroquinone 4% in the Treatment of Melasma.” Res Pract. 2011;2011:379173.
12 Gehring W.“Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin.” J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004;3(2):88-93.
13 Starr P.“Oral Nicotinamide Prevents Common Skin Cancers in High-Risk Patients, Reduces Costs.”Am Health Drug Benefits. 2015;8(Spec Issue):13-14.
14 Surjana D et al.“Nicotinamide enhances repair of ultraviolet radiation-induced DNA damage in human keratinocytes and ex vivo skin.” Carcinogenesis. 2013;34(5):1144-1149.
15 Sinha R et al.“Oral supplementation with liposomal glutathione elevates body stores of glutathione and markers of immune function.” Eur J Clin Nut. 2018;72:105-111.
16 Richie Jr JP et al.“Randomized controlled trial of oral glutathione supplementation on body stores of glutathione.” Eur J Nutr. 2015;54(2):251-263.
17 Handog E et al.“An open-label, single-arm trial of the safety and efficacy of a novel preparation of glutathione as a skin-lightening agent in Filipino women.” Int J Dermatol. 2016;55(2):153-157.
18 Watanabe F et al.“Skin-whitening and skin-condition-improving effects of topical oxidized glutathione: a double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical trial in healthy women.” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol.
2014;7:267-274.
19 Weschawalit S et al.“Glutathione and its antiaging and antimelanogenic effects.” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017;10:147-153.
20 Jun Loh X et al.“Pearl Powder—An Emerging Material for Biomedical Applications:A Review.” Materials (Basel). 2021;14(11):2797.
21 Chiu H et al.“Efficacy of protein rich pearl powder on antioxidant status in a randomized placebo-controlled trial.” J Food Drug Anal. 2018;26(1):309-317.
22 Hemarajata P et al.“Effects of probiotics on gut microbiota: mechanisms of intestinal immunomodulation and neuromodulation.”Therap Adv Gastroenterol. 2013;6(1):39-51.
23 Majeed M et al.“Skin Protective Activity of LactoSporin-the Extracellular Metabolite from Bacillus Coagulans MTCC 5856.” Cosmetics. 2020;7(4):76.
24 Khor B et al.“Interconnections between the Oral and Gut Microbiomes: Reversal of Microbial Dysbiosis and the Balance between Systemic Health and Disease.” Microorganisms. 2021;9(3):496.
25 Moldovan S.“Microbes and Their Role in the Oral-Systemic Connection:A Review of Recent Literature.” Periodontal Ther. 2020:6.
26 Zielinska A et al.“Abundance of active ingredients in sea-buckthorn oil.” Lipids Health Dis. 2017;16:95.
27 Koskovac M et al.“Review Sea Buckthorn Oil—A Valuable Source for Cosmeceuticals.” Cosmetics. 2017;4(4):40.

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