This document provides information about nail lacquer and nail lacquer remover. It defines nail lacquer as a preparation applied to nails cosmetically or for protection. The key components of a nail lacquer system are a film former, resin, plasticizer, solvent, diluent, coloring agents, and other additives. Nail lacquer is evaluated based on properties like color, drying time, smoothness, adhesion, and water resistance. Nail lacquer remover contains solvents like acetone, ethyl acetate, and toluene to loosen and remove nail lacquer without dehydrating or removing oils from the nail.

1. Lecture 8
Outlines:
1-Nail lacquer
• Definition
• Characteristic
• Nail lacquer system
• Evaluation
2-Nail lacquer remover

2. NAIL LACQUER
NAIL POLISH REMOVER

3. Nail lacquer
• Definition:
• Nail polish or varnish is a preparation that is
applied to the nails of both fingers and toes,
usually cosmetically, but also as a protection for
nail.
• To decorate nails of fingers or toes, which gives
clean, pink nail as well as elegant and healthy
look.
• For therapeutic purpose: Nail cream

4. • Characteristics:
• 1-Harmless to skin
• 2-Convenient, easy to apply
• 3-Stable on storage
• 4-Should form satisfactorily film on nail
• 5-Uniform color
• 6-Good adhesive property
• 7-Good gloss, which implies a very smooth surface
• 8-Sufficient flexibilities to avoid brittleness, cracking
• 9-Maintenance of properties for one week

5. Formulation (Nail lacquer system)
• It consists of pigment suspended in volatile solvent in
which a film former have been dissolved.
• On application, the solvent evaporate leaving a color and
a film former on the nail.
1-Lacquer base
• Film former
• Resin
• Plasticizer
• Solvent and diluent
2-Coloring agents
• Pigments
3-Other formulating agent
• Suspending agents
• Perfumes

6. Film former
• Cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate butylate,
ethyl cellulose, vinyl polymer.
• Nitrocellulose
• Available in solution of different viscosities.
• Film produced is hard, water proof and abrasion
resistance.
• If it is used alone: Poor gloss, tendency to shrink
• So used with ketones, esters, toluene or alcohol.

7. Resins
1-Improve adhesion and hardness.
2-Increase the gloss of the film.
3-Helps in dispensing insoluble pigments, lakes.
• Shellac, benzoin, ester gum, PVA resin
• Sulphonamide, formaldehyde resin are
presently used most.
• Santolite HMP: Harder resin
• Santolite MS 80%: Flexible, high gloss, good
flow property.

8. Plasticizers
• 1-Used to avoid brittle film formed by cellulose.
• 2- Used to improve flexibility, adhesive property
to film.
• Two types:
• a-Solvent plasticizer, compatible with
nitrocellulose
• b-Non solvent plasticizer, incompatible with
nitrocellulose.
• Used in combination, proportion is 1:1
• As camphor, castor oil, dibutyl tartrate, butyl
glycolate, butyl stearate.

9. Solvents and diluent
• Evaporation is important but not rapid as it
causes uneven, streaky application.
• Blushing: Dull film, unattractive finish due to
rapid cooling.
• Low BP solvents:
• Ethyl ether, petroleum ether, acetone, ethanol
• Medium BP solvents:
• Amyl acetate, butyl alcohol
• High BP solvents:
• Ethyl lactate, carbitol

10. • Active solvent:
• Esters, ketone
• May be fast, medium, slow evaporating
• Couplers:
• Non solvent for nitrocellulose
• Used to increase the strength of solvent
• Diluents:
• Used to stabilize viscosity
• Form coat of enamel applied to the nail
• As ethanol, butanol

11. Pigments
• Not toxic, non irritant, non staining
• Should be insoluble in lacquer solvents
• Compatible with other ingredients
• Should be stable to light, as very small particles
• As titanium dioxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, iron
blue, iron black.
Suspending agents
• Are added to avoid sedimentation of insoluble pigments:
Bentone 0.5-2%.
• Ortho-phosphoric acid may be used to increase the
viscosity.

12. Perfumes
• Used to mask the odor of other ingredients.
• Not used in high concentration.
• Strong perfumes should be avoided.
• Generally synthetic perfumes are preferred but it
cause destabilization of the color or product.

13. Steps in nail lacquer formulation
• 1-Add 75% of solvent, whole of diluent
• 2-Add nitrocellulose while agitation
• 3-Add resin, plasticizer, remaining of solvent
• 4-Stir till dissolved
• 5-Check viscosity
• 6-Clarify by filtration
• 7-Add color to produce uniform product

14. Formula, procedure
• Nitrocellulose 15
• Eudragit RS 100 2.5
• Dibutyl phthatae 4.5
• Alcohol+Aceton(40:60) 10
• Ethyl acetate 30
• Butyl acetate 5
• Toluene 30
• Pigment 3
• Procedure: Take nitrocellulose in glass bottle and add ethyl
acetate, butyl acetate, allow it to swell.
• Add the other ingredient and shake well.
• Pack in a stopper bottle and label.

15. Evaluation
• Color
• Non volatile content
• Drying time
• Smoothness
• Adhesion
• Water resistance
• Viscosity

16. Color
• Comparing with master color standards by applying on
nail.
Non volatile content (Dish method)
• 1-Sample of 1 gm is placed in a dish
• 2-Sample is spread over a dish
• 3-Place in an oven at 1050C for drying for 1 h.
• 4-Skin formed is broken up with the wire
• 5-Again place in an oven at 1050C for 1 h.
• 6-Weighted loss value representing the impurity

17. Drying time
• Apply film of 0.006 cm on glass or melamine coated
paper
• Temperature and humidity conditions at 250C and
50%RH
• Determine time required to form dry to touch film
Smoothness of film
• Nail lacquer applied to smooth surface
• Film is studied microscopically
Adhesion
• Applied to surface, trying to remove film mechanically
• Measure force required to remove the film

18. Viscosity
• Can be determined by Brookefield viscometer
Water resistance
• Measure resistance of the water permeability of the film
• Certain weigh is applied on surface, immerse in water
• Weight is calculated before and after immersion
• More the increase in weight lowers the water resistance

19. Nail lacquer remover
• Preparations generally used to remove nail lacquer
• Contains fats in small amount
• Available in liquid forms but some creams are available in
market
• Solvents like acetone, ethyl acetate and toluene are used
• More volatile solvents are avoided as they cause
dehydration, removes fats from nails
• May be avoided by using blended solvents or castor oil
• Other oils can be used as almond, olive, cottonseed oil
• Some fatty additives are used as dibutyl phthalate, butyl
stearate and lanolin derivatives

20. • Example 1
• Butyl stearate 3%
• Ethyl acetate 15%
• Butyl acetate 25%
• Acetone 27%
• Toluene 30%
• Add perfume to avoid unpleasant odor up to 3%
• Example 2
• Water 10%
• Ethyl acetate 90%
• This in non smearing (staining) type for lacquer remover
• Do not dissolve enamel but loosely disintegrate it