garment

1. Lecture 7 & 8
Total Quality Control Management
(Fabric Defect)

2. FABRIC DEFECT:
Fabric quality is very important factor to
produce quality garments, because most of the
garment defects are caused by the fabric. On the
other hand fabric is the main raw materials of a
garment and about 60% cost of a garment is the
fabric cost. Fabric quality is based on the quality of
each components used to produce and finish the
fabric, as well as the way in which the various
components interact. Quality control personnel must
have knowledge about fabric defect, so that they can
evaluate the Fabric quality in garments industry.

3. DEFINITION OF FABRIC DEFECT:
Any deficit or deficiency of a fabric within its
specific requirement is called fabric defect. That
means if there find any kind of unwanted thing for
which we can’t consider that a quality fabric is called
fabric defect. Fabric defect can occur for different
activities.

4. CLASSIFICATION OF FABRIC
DEFECTS:
Mainly there are four categories of fabric
defects which are mentioned below and those areas
must be checked to ascertain the fabric quality.
•Construction defects:
•Latent defects:
•Patent defects:
•Other defects:

5. 1. CONSTRUCTION DEFECTS:
Any deficiency in construction of the fabric. Such as:
Density, Count of the yarn, Wales/inch & Course/inch etc.
Density:
Sometime the fabric weaving or knitting masters
may not be so aware of the fabric density. As a result after
completing the weaving there are uneven places found on a
same roll of fabric.

6. •Count of the yarn:
It often found in the mills that they are not maintaining the
proper counted yarn, As a result the construction of the
fabric become different from the buyer requirement. This
variation is called the yarn count fabric defect.

7. •Wales/inch & Course/inch:
Sometimes it also occurs that, Wales/inch &
Course/inch calculation are not accurate. As a result it’s
become much difficult to maintain the GSM of the fabric

8. 2. ​
LATENT DEFECTS:
These are hidden defects in the fabric and it is not found
visually. These defects can be identified by testing or other
process. Such as:
• Color fastness
• Shrinkage
• Broken color pattern.
Color fastness:
Colour fastness is a term used in dyeing of textile materials
means resistance of colour to bleed or run from the
clothing. Clothing should be tested for colorfastness before
using any type of bleach or bleaching solution, or strong
cleaning product.

9. 3. ​
PATENT DEFECTS:
These defects can be observed in visual
examination and can be quantified by using
grading system. Sometimes these types of
defect are caused directly rejection of the
fabric. Some of the patent defects are
•Slub
•Hole
•Missing yarn, etc.

10. Slub:
Slub is a bunch of yarn having less twist or no
twist and has a wider diameter compared to
normal twist yarn.

11. •Hole
* Needle breakage.
* Sharp Edges on Cloth Roll.
*Hard substance between layers of fabric in cloth
rolls. Like this way hole can be create.

12. The fabric is characterized by a gap, parallel to
the warp. The number of ends missing may be
one or more.
Missing yarn

13. Missing Picks:
A narrow streak running parallel with weft
threads caused due to absence of weft
yarn.

14. 4. OTHER DEFECTS:
Some other defects may occur in the
fabric which is considered more different
than above three categories. Such as:
*Length,
*Width,
*Shade variation etc.

15. FABRIC DEFECTS ALSO CAN BE CLASSIFIED AS
MAJOR AND MINOR:
MAJOR DEFECTS:
A defect is conspicuous(easily visible) on the finished
product, would cause the item to be second or affects the
salability or serviceability of the item.
MINOR DEFECTS:
A defect that does not reduces the consumption or sale of the
product is nevertheless a workmanship error beyond the
quality standards

16. COMMON FABRIC DEFECT
❖ Crease or wrinkle
❖ Torn Selvedge
❖ Cut
❖ Hanging or Loose
Thread
❖ Hole
❖ Knot
❖ Wavy Selvedge
❖ Slack End or Pick
❖ Slack,
Uneven or Tight
Selvedge
❖ Soiled End or
Pick
❖ Spirality
❖ Tear
❖ Slub.
❖ Spots or Stains

17. Knitted Fabrics Defects

18. Knitted Fabrics Defects
A defect in the knitted fabric is an abnormality, which
spoils the aesthetics that is the clean & uniform
appearance of the fabric & effects the performance
parameters, dimensional stability etc.
There are various types of defects, which occur in the
Knitted fabrics of all types, caused by a variety of
reasons. The same type of defects may occur in the
fabric, due to a variety of different causes like Drop
Stitches, Spirality etc.

19. Name of knitted fabric defect:
❑ Drop Stitches or Holes
❑ Barriness
❑ Contaminations
❑ Spirality (For over twisted)
❑ Needle Lines
❑ Oil Lines or Stains
❑ Fabric Press Off
❑ Surface Hairiness & Piling
❑ Dyeing Patches
❑ Softener Marks
❑ Color Fading
❑ Shade Variation
❑ Tonal Variation
❑ Wet Squeezer Marks
❑ Fold Marks
❑ Crease or Rope Marks
❑ Skewing or Diagonal
Grain Lines
❑ Shrinkage
❑ GSM Variation
❑ Width Variation
❑ Curling of Edges

21. SLUB /KNOT / SNAG
SLUB / KNOT:
❑Thick uneven spot(s) in the fabric caused
by lint or small lengths of yarn adhering to
it, or where two yarn ends are tied together.
SNAG:
❑ A pulled thread in the fabric.
❑ All snags should be considered defective

22. CONTAMINATION
❑ A transfer of
color from one
fabric to another.
❑ All bleeding and
color migration
should be considered
defective.

23. SHADING
❑ Noticeable color difference between
the same color. GMT-GMT.
❑ Noticeable color difference between
the same color. Panel-Panel.
❑ Finishing streaks.
❑ Shading that can be seen during visual
inspection should be viewed with light
box. If shading is visible under uv
lighting or daylight, product should be
considered defective.

24. YELLOWING OF FABRIC
⚫ This is a phenomenon
which causes light colored
fabric to yellow over
time.
⚫ All yellowing should be
considered defective.

25. FABRIC PERFORMANCE
⚫ This includes appearance, texture, feel etc.. That are
different from the approved fabric or with discrepancies
between garment.

26. FABRIC HOLE
⚫ Includes holes in the fabric
and needle holes.
⚫ All fabric holes should be
considered defective.

27. FABRIC RUN
❑ A break in the yarn of a
fabric that causes the stitch
to run along the needle line
or a void caused by a
missing warp yarn.
❑ All fabric runs should
be considered defective.

28. YARN CONTAMINATION
⚫ Foreign fibers or soil knitted into the
fabric.
⚫ Contamination which is a 1/8”
(0.3cm) or greater in a critical area
of a garment, which can be easily
seen should be considered defective.
⚫ Contamination greater than ¼”
(0.6cm) in non critical area should be
considered defective.

29. Prime causes of knitted fabric defect:
Yarn related defects
Knitting Elements related defects
Machine Settings related Defects
Dyeing related defects
Finishing related defects

30. 1. Yarn related defects:
Almost all the defects appearing in the
horizontal direction in the knitted fabric
are yarn related. These defects are
mainly;
❑ Barriness
❑ Thick & Thin lines
❑Dark or Light horizontal lines (due to the
difference in dye pick up)
❑Contaminations
❑ Spirality

31. Fig: Contamination

32. Knitting Elements related defects:
Almost all the defects appearing in the
vertical direction in the knitted fabrics are
as a cause of bad Knitting Elements. These
defects are mainly:
❑ Needle Lines
❑ Drop Stitches etc.

33. Machine Settings related Defects:
These defects appear randomly in the knitted
fabrics, due to the wrong knitting machine
settings & that of the machine parts. The defects
are mainly;
❑Yarn Streaks
❑ Fabric press off
❑ Drop Stitches
❑ Broken Ends

34. Yarn Streaks
Fabric Press off

35. Dyeing related defects:
The Dyeing related defects are, as follows;
□ Dyeing patches, Softener Marks
□ Shade variation
□ Tonal variation
□ Color fading (Poor Color Fastness)
□ Dull shade
□ Crease or rope Marks

36. Finishing related defects:
Defects caused, mainly due to the wrong process
parameters are :
❖ High Shrinkage
❖ Surface Hairiness & Pilling
❖ Tonal variation
❖ Snagging (Sharp points in the dyeing machine or
trolley etc)
❖ Fold Marks
❖ Wet Squeezer Marks
❖ GSM variation
❖ Fabric Width variation
❖ Curling of S.J. Fabrics

37. Relationship between yarn and knitted fabric qualities:
There are multifarious links between yarn properties and the
quality of a knitted fabric. The following relationship can be
assumed as example:
No. Cause Effect
01 Very uneven yarn Cloudy fabric
02 Yarn with very low strength or
too many thin places
Holes or cracks
03 Yarn with very long-period
unevenness
Fabric with strips
04 Bad dying or blending Horizontal stripes
05 Insufficiently paraffin yarn Drop stitches, hole or cloth fall-out
06 Too large or weak knots or bad
splicing.
Yarn end separation of break during
knitting
07 Unclear thick places Irreparable faults in the fabric
08 Too much yarn hairiness Diffused stitch appearance and fluff
build-up.