This document discusses the photographer's experiments with long exposure photography using both film and digital cameras. They began by taking photos at a fairground to capture the movement of rides through light trails. Later experiments involved taking photos of fireworks using longer shutter speeds and moving the camera. The photographer also explored light painting portraits by using colored lights in a dark room. They aimed to refine their technique by adjusting shutter speed, ISO, using a tripod, and editing photos in Photoshop by cropping and adjusting backgrounds. The goal was to clearly capture movement while maintaining image quality.

1. LIGHT AND
MOVEMENT
PHOTOGRAPHY

2. MSH
After looking at a British photographer known as MSH,
I went on to take the following photos. These urban
images are long exposures taken with a Nikon D50 and
are taken from viewpoints that make you feel as if
you’re a part of the action.

3. For these photos I used a film camera
and tried to hold the camera still and
then lengthened the shutter speed (so
the shutter was open for longer). I
took these at a fairground so that the
movement of the rides were captured
by the ‘light trail’ left by the bright and
colourful lights of the ride. Next time I
will look more at the ISO as the photo
below is to light as well as using a
tripod to make sure the rest of the
image isn't shaky.

4. The above image had an interesting
affect as it was the end of the film
which is why it has the black strip
down the side.

5. I went on to take more photos, using
what I learnt from the last photos. This
time I used a tripod. I wanted the
person to be focused with the
movement around them being blurry.
However this was hard to achieve as
the person in the image naturally
moved. Also as I needed a longer
shutter speed it was hard to not over
exposure the image and to have a long
motion blur.

8. I then went onto do long
exposure photos of fireworks.
For these photos I used a
digital camera and made the
shutter speed longer. For some
of the photos I went on to move
the camera which created light
trails in different ways
(depending on how the I moved
the camera).

10. I then went on to crop some of the
pictures to change the
composition. By cropping the
picture it changes the feel of the
piece and makes what the image
is more ambiguous. However by
zooming in so much it lowered the
quality of the picture.
I also made the
background neater
by making sure all
of the background
was the same
colour with no
marks on.

11. I tired to make the
bottom right of the
picture darker.
However it was hard
to blend it together
and didn’t look as
good.
For this photo I
cropped it to just the
bottom right part of the
picture. I liked how the
colours went together
in that section of the
photo (mainly yellows
and whites).

12. I also cropped this picture to
make an interesting
composition. I like how there
are some bright, vibrant light
trails whereas others are more
muted.
I edited the background
making it darker and
getting rid of the more
blurry lines, leaving the
sharper light trails.

13. Again I made the
background darker
and uniform. I then
got rid of a few of
the blurry and faded
lines.
I like how in this picture
there was a lot of red so
I cropped part of that so
it was bright red on a
black background.

14. LIGHT
PAINTING
LONG EXPOSURE

15. DAVID LEBE
I looked at the artist David Lebe who does long exposure
photos and uses light to ‘paint’ a picture. He focuses mainly
on the human form.

16. After looking at Lebe’s work I went
on to take my own photos. For these
photos I used long exposure and
different coloured lights. I had to use
a dark room so that there was no
other light that affected the photo.

22. I did two edits of the photo on the
left. I cropped the image first to get
rid of the light on the bottom and
top. This also made the human form
the central idea.
For this one I blurred out the
background so my face
wasn’t in the background.
I tried making the
background black to make
the image stand out more. It
made the image more
cartoony and surreal.

23. I edited the photo on the left as at
some points the light wasn’t
shown as it was obstructed by
either the person or armchair.
I used Photoshop to join
the lines up as well as
make all the background
black.

24. I went on to edit it again and made all of the background black
as well as under the sofa. I joined the light trail up and got rid of
some of the light flare.