1. How to Make an 8-Faucet Ferro-
Cement Hand Washing Station
Created by Jackie Powell
Agua para la Salud
Nebaj, Guatemala
June 2010
2. What is Ferrocement?
A composite
material--in this case
using cement, rebar,
and square mesh for
enforcement
Once the frame of a
structure is created
using rebar and
mesh, cement is
applied
Rebar &
mesh
structure
Applying
cement
3. Cement vs. Concrete
Our definitions of cement and concrete:
Cement= sand + powdered cement + water
Concrete= gravel + sand + powdered cement +
water
We suggest using 4000 PSI powdered
cement
4. Cement Mixture Proportions
Regular= 2 sand x 1 powdered cement
using a 23 caliber sifter or ½” wire mesh
Mix in a location with no rocks
Fino= 2 sand x 1 powdered cement
Using an extremely fine sifter
Mix in wheelbarrow
Liso= pure powdered cement + water
Mix in wheelbarrow
5. Concrete Mixture Proportions
Concrete mixture varies
depending on size of
gravel in your location
If ¾” grade gravel is
available the mixture
should be: 2.5 gravel x 2
sand x 1 powered
cement
Otherwise, it is a good
idea to ask nearby
concrete company for
the best mixture for the
area
In Guatemala we use a
2x1x1 mixture
7. Steps Continued
Finishing the Wall
Making the 2000L
Tank
Making Tank Walls
Cementing the Tank
Finishing Touches
Four Clean Outs
35cm Sink Basin
Tank Lid
Adding Float
8. Placement & Leveling
Before construction, think of an ideal location for the hand washing
station. If possible place in a location near bathrooms and kitchen
and not in a location that will be needed for the construction of future
classrooms, football fields, etc.
Level an area of at least 4x4 meters and determine an area to mix
concrete and cement
4x4m
10. Make a level wooden form for base measuring
3.2 x 3.2 meters and 15cm deep. Use a line
level to level the wooden form
3.2x3.2 meters
15cm deep
15cm deep
20. Make rebar wall structure with 4 rings of #cm
diameter, spaced 15cm apart bound with #
verticals measuring 56cm spaced 27cm
27cm
27cm27cm 27cm27cm 27cm27cm 27cm
15cm15cm15cm
Tie each
junction
with tie
wire.
21. 40cm
5cm
Put together the larger metal wall
form.
Place the rebar structure inside of the outer
wall and adjust to ensure a 5cm space all
around.
22. Place the wall form and rebar on top of the
foundation.
Fill with stones.
23. Placing Drainage Tubes & Clean Outs
Fill in with large rocks leaving 20cm from
the rock to top of wooden form
20cm
20cm
25. Attach four pieces of 75cm long 2” PVC
tube from each opening of the cross
75cm
26. Then attach a T connection 25cm from wooden form
Add another piece of PVC tube until it reaches the end of
the form
Attach drainage cap to T and make sure it is level with
top of wooden form should be 15cm from the top of
wooden form
Drainage cap is made
by drilling 5/16” holes
in a 2” PVC cap
25cm
15cm
27. One drain should be connected to drainage tube using a
cross connection
This drain should be angled slightly lower than other
drains (17cm from top of wooden form) allowing for gray
water to flow downhill into drainage tube
Drainage tube
connecting to
seepage pit or
absorption tank
28. Four clean outs at
each end of drain
Clean outs can be
placed before or
after pouring
concrete. SEE
SLIDES # 59&60
35. Place circular metal form 35cm from inner wall of
metal form, making sure it’s level.
35cm
Level!
36. Make two rebar rings to fit into circular metal form
Rings should have a diameter of 128cm, using a 4.35m
piece of rebar allowing for 35cm of overlap should work
nicely
37. Cut 16 pieces of 60cm long rebar
Tie 16 pieces onto rings 25cm apart
60cm rebar pieces tied to
rebar rings
25cm
apart
38. Fill in with rock and concrete to top of
circular metal form
39. Place ½” galvanized steel
faucet pipes in 8 openings at
a slight angle
15cm
20cm
40. Fill in circular metal form with concrete and level
off with wooden board leaving the center a bit
lower than the edges
Level
with
board
41. Add a 140cm ½” galvanized pipe to existing pipe
42. Making the Tank Walls
Cut 16 pieces 2m rebar pieces
Bend 40cm into a 40˚ angle
40˚ angle
40cm 2m
43. To check 40˚ angle, place bars 128cm apart and
the opening should measure 50cm
128cm
50cm
44. Tie each 2m long bent rebar pieces to 60cm rebar
stakes in tank base
about 5cm of the 2m long piece should be pushed into base as
well
Tie in
two
places
Attach ½” elbow to
connect ½” float valve
45. Make a 50cm diameter rebar circle and attach to
top of tank
50cm
46. Make 6 rebar rings with diameters of
128cm each and tie them 25cm apart
Rebar
rings
placed
25cm
apart
47. Also, add one rebar ring to top of tank
Adding
rebar
ring to
top
49. Using U-shaped pieces to secure, place one layer of ¼”
square mesh on rebar structure and tie securely with tie
wire.
50. Inflow ½” galvanized pipe needs to be
have an extra layer of mesh tied around it
from the inside of the tank
51. Cementing the Tank
Add first layer 2x1 cement mixture from inside
tank and allow to dry overnight
Pay special
attention when
covering this
pipe with cement
52. Add layer of 2x1
cement on top of
tank the next day
53. Apply three layers of cement on the outside of the tank
allowing for time to dry in-between applications.
Two regular layers and finish with a fino layer
67. Cut out a
cardboard circle the
size of the opening,
approx. 50cm in
diameter
Lay down a piece
of plastic and then
lay down the
rebar/mesh lid
structure.
68. Fill in the rebar/mesh structure with the 3 to 1 cement mixture
Use a trowel to make sure there are no air bubbles and the lid is
smooth and rounded.
To make sure the lid is always placed on the tank correctly, make
an arrow on the lid and on the tank so they can always line up
Make marks so lid always fits tightly
69. After the lid has time to cure, remove plastic and
cardboard
Clean off bottom of
lid for a good fit
70. Adding Float
Connect float to elbow on entrance ½”
galvanized pipe
Float
140cm
entrance
pipe
5cm galvanized
pipe connecting
elbow to float