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History Of Footwear
August 05,2013
2
August 05,2013
Agenda
1. Introduction
2. High renaissance
3. Mannerist
renaissance
4. After renaissance
5. In the 20th century
3
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Introduction
4
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Introduction
• In the Spanish cave drawing, we saw that more than 15000 years
ago human learnt how to use animal skin as a footwear.
• Also 5000 years ago, Human used leather as a foot cover.
- Now-a-days We are wearing sandals which is the oldest
crafted footwear
- Other types of footwear ( which has pristine influence)
◦ Moccasins.
◦ Cuban heel
◦ Platform soles
◦ Poulaine
◦ Etc
5
August 05,2013
Construction
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Construction
• Over one hundred operations go into the construction of a shoe. The
first and most important of these is the creation of the last. The last
is a hand-carved wood or moulded plastic replica of the human foot.
The last determines the contour of the arch and how evenly the
wearer’s weight will be distributed throughout the foot. A different
last is required for each shoe style and size to be produced.
7
August 05,2013
High renaissance
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High renaissance
• Men Shoe
- The poulaine, the shoe with long pointed toes of the previous
period had fallen out of fashion. It is possible that the end of the
poulaine was foretold by episodes such as the death of Duke
Leopold III of Austria. It is said that he died because his long
pointed shoes impeded him from escaping his assassins. Whether
the story has any truth, it is safe to assume that the exaggerated
toes of the poulaine became clumsy and inconvenient for most
tasks, and would eventually give way to a more reasonable style.
- buskins : Calf length boots which laced up the front, resembling
a laced half boot.
9
August 05,2013
High renaissance (Continued)
• Women Shoe
- Patten
◦ The sole was wooden, with a leather vamp that tied over the
foot with latchets. For the wealthy, it was fashionable to have a
matching shoe and patten. They were fashionable during the
gothic period, but continued to be worn during later periods as
a necessity.
- Chopine
◦ A shoe with a raised sole, worn first by the courtesans of
Venice during the Renaissance and quickly spreading to the
rest of Europe. They were worn over a slipper shoe, giving
height to the wearer. Chopines were made of wood, and
reached heights of up to 30 inches.
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August 05,2013
Mannerist renaissance
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August 05,2013
Mannerist renaissance
• Men shoe
- Escaffignons : Flat, light shoes which were slashed at the top.
Also known as eschapins.
- Galosh : 1) an overshoe 2) an extension of the vamp wings
seamed at the back.
• Women shoe
- The shoes were similar to men’s, with less exaggeration in the
width of the toe. A low cut slipper, sometimes with a strap across
the instep was popular in pastel shades. The women’s shoes were
slashed like the men’s revealing a colored taffeta lining.
12
August 05,2013
After renaissance
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Renaissance shoes were much more narrow. They had left and right shoes. They also
had heels to make men taller. The most popular shoe lace system comes from Balmoral
Castle in Scotland. It is still used today.
14
August 05,2013
In the 20th century
15
August 05,2013
In the 20th century
• In the mid-20th Century, advances in rubber, plastics, synthetic
cloth, and industrial adhesives have allowed manufacturers to create
shoes that stray considerably from traditional crafting techniques.
Leather, which had been the primary material in earlier styles, has
remained standard in expensive dress shoes, but athletic shoes often
have little or no real leather. Soles, which were once laboriously
hand-stitched on, are now more often machine stitched or simply
glued on. Many of these newer materials, such as rubber and
plastics, have made shoes less biodegradable. It is estimated that
most mass-produced shoes require 1000 years to degrade in
a landfill. In the late 2000s, some shoemakers picked up on the issue
and began to produce shoes made entirely from degradable
materials, such as the Nike Considered.
16
August 05,2013
In the 20th century (Continued)
• In 2007, the global shoe industry had an overall market of $107.4
billion, in terms of revenue, and is expected to grow to $122.9 billion
by the end of 2012. Shoe manufacturers in the People's Republic of
China account for 63% of production, 40.5% of global exports and
55% of industry revenue. However, many manufacturers
in Europe dominate the higher-priced, higher value-added end of the
market.
17
August 05,2013
20th century: Shoe
18
August 05,2013
20th century: Shoe
19
August 05,2013
20
August 05,2013
Reference
1. Bata Shoe Museum. All About Shoes, Bata Limited, Toronto, 1994.
2. Batterberry, Michael & Ariane. Fashion The Mirror of History, Greenwin House, New York, 1982.
3. Blum, Stella ed. Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper’s Bazar 1867-1898, Dover
Publications, Inc, New York, 1974.
4. Bordoli, Ernest. Footwear Down the Ages, Northampton, 1934.
5. Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years of Fashion, Henry N. Abrams Inc, New York, 1983.
6. Bredon, Juliet & Mitrophanow, Igor. The Moon Year A Record of Chinese Customs and Festivals,
Paragon Book Reprint Corp., New York, 1966. (reprinted from 1927 edition)
7. Brooke, Iris. A History of English Footwear, St. Giles Publishing Co. Ltd., London, 1949.
8. Brooke, Iris. Footwear A Short History of European and American Shoes, Theatre Arts Books, New
York, 1971.
9. Calasibetta, Charlotte. Fairchild’s Dictionary of Fashion, Fairchild Publications Inc., New York,
1975.
10.Contini, Mila. Fashion, The Odyssey Press, New York, 1965.
21
August 05,2013
Reference
11. Davenport, Millia. The Book of Costume (Volumes One and Two), Crown Publishers, New York,
1957.
12.Fan Hong. Footbinding, Feminism, and Freedom, Frank Cass, London, 1997.
13.Giles, Herbert A., trans. Strange Stories from a Chinese Studio. Thomas, London, 1880.
14.Girotti, Eugenia. Footwear, Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1997.
15.Hansen, Henry Harald. Costumes and Styles, E. P. Dutton & Co. Inc., New York, 1956.
16.Jackson, Beverley. Splendid Slippers, Ten Speed Press, Berkley, 1997.
17.Kemper, Rachel H. Costume, Newsweek Books, New York, 1979.
18.Levy, Howard S. The Lotus Lovers The Complete History of the Curious Erotic Custom of
Footbinding in China, Prometheus Books, Buffalo, 1992. (republished from 1966 edition)
19.McClellan, Elisabeth. History of American Costume 1607-1870, Tudor Publishing Company, New
York, 1937.
20.Miller, Bettina, ed. From Flappers to Flivvers, Reiman Publications, Greendale, 1995.
21.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page
22
August 05,2013
Thank you

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History of-shoes rangeet mitra

  • 2. 2 August 05,2013 Agenda 1. Introduction 2. High renaissance 3. Mannerist renaissance 4. After renaissance 5. In the 20th century
  • 4. 4 August 05,2013 Introduction • In the Spanish cave drawing, we saw that more than 15000 years ago human learnt how to use animal skin as a footwear. • Also 5000 years ago, Human used leather as a foot cover. - Now-a-days We are wearing sandals which is the oldest crafted footwear - Other types of footwear ( which has pristine influence) ◦ Moccasins. ◦ Cuban heel ◦ Platform soles ◦ Poulaine ◦ Etc
  • 6. 6 August 05,2013 Construction • Over one hundred operations go into the construction of a shoe. The first and most important of these is the creation of the last. The last is a hand-carved wood or moulded plastic replica of the human foot. The last determines the contour of the arch and how evenly the wearer’s weight will be distributed throughout the foot. A different last is required for each shoe style and size to be produced.
  • 8. 8 August 05,2013 High renaissance • Men Shoe - The poulaine, the shoe with long pointed toes of the previous period had fallen out of fashion. It is possible that the end of the poulaine was foretold by episodes such as the death of Duke Leopold III of Austria. It is said that he died because his long pointed shoes impeded him from escaping his assassins. Whether the story has any truth, it is safe to assume that the exaggerated toes of the poulaine became clumsy and inconvenient for most tasks, and would eventually give way to a more reasonable style. - buskins : Calf length boots which laced up the front, resembling a laced half boot.
  • 9. 9 August 05,2013 High renaissance (Continued) • Women Shoe - Patten ◦ The sole was wooden, with a leather vamp that tied over the foot with latchets. For the wealthy, it was fashionable to have a matching shoe and patten. They were fashionable during the gothic period, but continued to be worn during later periods as a necessity. - Chopine ◦ A shoe with a raised sole, worn first by the courtesans of Venice during the Renaissance and quickly spreading to the rest of Europe. They were worn over a slipper shoe, giving height to the wearer. Chopines were made of wood, and reached heights of up to 30 inches.
  • 11. 11 August 05,2013 Mannerist renaissance • Men shoe - Escaffignons : Flat, light shoes which were slashed at the top. Also known as eschapins. - Galosh : 1) an overshoe 2) an extension of the vamp wings seamed at the back. • Women shoe - The shoes were similar to men’s, with less exaggeration in the width of the toe. A low cut slipper, sometimes with a strap across the instep was popular in pastel shades. The women’s shoes were slashed like the men’s revealing a colored taffeta lining.
  • 13. 13 August 05,2013 Renaissance shoes were much more narrow. They had left and right shoes. They also had heels to make men taller. The most popular shoe lace system comes from Balmoral Castle in Scotland. It is still used today.
  • 14. 14 August 05,2013 In the 20th century
  • 15. 15 August 05,2013 In the 20th century • In the mid-20th Century, advances in rubber, plastics, synthetic cloth, and industrial adhesives have allowed manufacturers to create shoes that stray considerably from traditional crafting techniques. Leather, which had been the primary material in earlier styles, has remained standard in expensive dress shoes, but athletic shoes often have little or no real leather. Soles, which were once laboriously hand-stitched on, are now more often machine stitched or simply glued on. Many of these newer materials, such as rubber and plastics, have made shoes less biodegradable. It is estimated that most mass-produced shoes require 1000 years to degrade in a landfill. In the late 2000s, some shoemakers picked up on the issue and began to produce shoes made entirely from degradable materials, such as the Nike Considered.
  • 16. 16 August 05,2013 In the 20th century (Continued) • In 2007, the global shoe industry had an overall market of $107.4 billion, in terms of revenue, and is expected to grow to $122.9 billion by the end of 2012. Shoe manufacturers in the People's Republic of China account for 63% of production, 40.5% of global exports and 55% of industry revenue. However, many manufacturers in Europe dominate the higher-priced, higher value-added end of the market.
  • 20. 20 August 05,2013 Reference 1. Bata Shoe Museum. All About Shoes, Bata Limited, Toronto, 1994. 2. Batterberry, Michael & Ariane. Fashion The Mirror of History, Greenwin House, New York, 1982. 3. Blum, Stella ed. Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper’s Bazar 1867-1898, Dover Publications, Inc, New York, 1974. 4. Bordoli, Ernest. Footwear Down the Ages, Northampton, 1934. 5. Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years of Fashion, Henry N. Abrams Inc, New York, 1983. 6. Bredon, Juliet & Mitrophanow, Igor. The Moon Year A Record of Chinese Customs and Festivals, Paragon Book Reprint Corp., New York, 1966. (reprinted from 1927 edition) 7. Brooke, Iris. A History of English Footwear, St. Giles Publishing Co. Ltd., London, 1949. 8. Brooke, Iris. Footwear A Short History of European and American Shoes, Theatre Arts Books, New York, 1971. 9. Calasibetta, Charlotte. Fairchild’s Dictionary of Fashion, Fairchild Publications Inc., New York, 1975. 10.Contini, Mila. Fashion, The Odyssey Press, New York, 1965.
  • 21. 21 August 05,2013 Reference 11. Davenport, Millia. The Book of Costume (Volumes One and Two), Crown Publishers, New York, 1957. 12.Fan Hong. Footbinding, Feminism, and Freedom, Frank Cass, London, 1997. 13.Giles, Herbert A., trans. Strange Stories from a Chinese Studio. Thomas, London, 1880. 14.Girotti, Eugenia. Footwear, Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1997. 15.Hansen, Henry Harald. Costumes and Styles, E. P. Dutton & Co. Inc., New York, 1956. 16.Jackson, Beverley. Splendid Slippers, Ten Speed Press, Berkley, 1997. 17.Kemper, Rachel H. Costume, Newsweek Books, New York, 1979. 18.Levy, Howard S. The Lotus Lovers The Complete History of the Curious Erotic Custom of Footbinding in China, Prometheus Books, Buffalo, 1992. (republished from 1966 edition) 19.McClellan, Elisabeth. History of American Costume 1607-1870, Tudor Publishing Company, New York, 1937. 20.Miller, Bettina, ed. From Flappers to Flivvers, Reiman Publications, Greendale, 1995. 21.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

Editor's Notes

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