This document provides information on harvesting times for various vegetables and fruits grown in home gardens. It includes details on when to harvest onions, garlic, peas, spinach, greens, radishes, beets, carrots and other root crops, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, melons, squash, corn, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, berries, stone fruits, grapes, herbs and more. It also provides tips on food preservation methods like cold storage, freezing, dehydrating and canning.
1) The document discusses growing berries and grapes, providing information on site requirements, varieties, growth habits, pruning practices, and routine care.
2) It recommends choosing berries based on factors like climate, soil conditions, and desired production season. Common choices include raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, grapes, currants and gooseberries.
3) Proper planning is important when growing berries, considering their specific needs around spacing, irrigation, fertilization, pest and disease management, and harvesting techniques. The document provides detailed guidance on pruning and training different berry varieties.
This document discusses different types of companion planting and cover crops. It defines companion planting as interplanting crops together for benefits like pest suppression and nitrogen fixation. Cover crops are usually planted between growing seasons to improve soil quality. Common companion crops mentioned are legumes planted with heavy feeders, and trap crops used to lure pests away from other plants. Benefits of both techniques include increased soil nutrients, pest control, and habitat for beneficial insects.
This document provides guidance on controlling pests in home gardens using integrated pest management. It recommends using non-chemical controls first through monitoring, tolerance thresholds, and cultural/physical controls. If needed, biological controls like beneficial insects or microbial pesticides are the next option. Chemical pesticides should only be used as a last resort. The document describes common garden pests like weeds, insects and diseases. It provides life cycles and effective control methods for each.
How to succeed at growing lettuce year-round, using season extension techniques as needed. How to choose between different types and different varieties of lettuce, to suit your conditions. How to deal organically with pests and diseases. Many ways to protect lettuce from cold weather. Tricks to germinate and grow lettuce in hot weather. How to schedule lettuce plantings for a continuous supply, with no gaps or gluts.
Producing Asian Greens 2017 Pam DawlingPam Dawling
Detailed information for market and home growers. Many varieties of tasty, nutritious greens grow quickly and bring fast returns. This session covers production of Asian greens outdoors and in the hoophouse. It includes tips on variety selection of over twenty types of Asian greens; timing of plantings; pest and disease management; crop requirements and harvesting.
Growing sweet potatoes from start to finish Pam Dawling 2016Pam Dawling
How to grow your own sweet potato slips, plant them, grow healthy crops and harvest good yields. How to select suitable roots for growing next year’s slips. How to cure and store roots for top quality and minimal losses
This document provides information on the production technology of spinach. It discusses the introduction, nutritive value, benefits, botany, cultivation practices including climate, soil, seasons, establishment, manures, irrigation, diseases and pests of spinach. The key points covered are that spinach is a cool season crop rich in nutrients like iron and vitamins K and A. It details different spinach varieties including savoy, semi-savoy and smooth leaf types and provides cultivation details for optimal spinach growth.
Home Fruit Planting Guide - Oklahoma State UniversityFujita64g
This document provides a home fruit planting guide with recommendations on planning, site selection, planting, and caring for fruits. Key points include:
- Develop a planting plan in advance, select fruit varieties and quantities, and control weeds before planting.
- Plant in well-drained, sunny areas and provide supplemental water, especially for new plantings.
- Consider pollination needs, as many fruits require cross-pollination from another variety for best production.
- Provide care like cultivation, mulching, irrigation and pruning to help establishments and maintain the home fruit garden.
1) The document discusses growing berries and grapes, providing information on site requirements, varieties, growth habits, pruning practices, and routine care.
2) It recommends choosing berries based on factors like climate, soil conditions, and desired production season. Common choices include raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, grapes, currants and gooseberries.
3) Proper planning is important when growing berries, considering their specific needs around spacing, irrigation, fertilization, pest and disease management, and harvesting techniques. The document provides detailed guidance on pruning and training different berry varieties.
This document discusses different types of companion planting and cover crops. It defines companion planting as interplanting crops together for benefits like pest suppression and nitrogen fixation. Cover crops are usually planted between growing seasons to improve soil quality. Common companion crops mentioned are legumes planted with heavy feeders, and trap crops used to lure pests away from other plants. Benefits of both techniques include increased soil nutrients, pest control, and habitat for beneficial insects.
This document provides guidance on controlling pests in home gardens using integrated pest management. It recommends using non-chemical controls first through monitoring, tolerance thresholds, and cultural/physical controls. If needed, biological controls like beneficial insects or microbial pesticides are the next option. Chemical pesticides should only be used as a last resort. The document describes common garden pests like weeds, insects and diseases. It provides life cycles and effective control methods for each.
How to succeed at growing lettuce year-round, using season extension techniques as needed. How to choose between different types and different varieties of lettuce, to suit your conditions. How to deal organically with pests and diseases. Many ways to protect lettuce from cold weather. Tricks to germinate and grow lettuce in hot weather. How to schedule lettuce plantings for a continuous supply, with no gaps or gluts.
Producing Asian Greens 2017 Pam DawlingPam Dawling
Detailed information for market and home growers. Many varieties of tasty, nutritious greens grow quickly and bring fast returns. This session covers production of Asian greens outdoors and in the hoophouse. It includes tips on variety selection of over twenty types of Asian greens; timing of plantings; pest and disease management; crop requirements and harvesting.
Growing sweet potatoes from start to finish Pam Dawling 2016Pam Dawling
How to grow your own sweet potato slips, plant them, grow healthy crops and harvest good yields. How to select suitable roots for growing next year’s slips. How to cure and store roots for top quality and minimal losses
This document provides information on the production technology of spinach. It discusses the introduction, nutritive value, benefits, botany, cultivation practices including climate, soil, seasons, establishment, manures, irrigation, diseases and pests of spinach. The key points covered are that spinach is a cool season crop rich in nutrients like iron and vitamins K and A. It details different spinach varieties including savoy, semi-savoy and smooth leaf types and provides cultivation details for optimal spinach growth.
Home Fruit Planting Guide - Oklahoma State UniversityFujita64g
This document provides a home fruit planting guide with recommendations on planning, site selection, planting, and caring for fruits. Key points include:
- Develop a planting plan in advance, select fruit varieties and quantities, and control weeds before planting.
- Plant in well-drained, sunny areas and provide supplemental water, especially for new plantings.
- Consider pollination needs, as many fruits require cross-pollination from another variety for best production.
- Provide care like cultivation, mulching, irrigation and pruning to help establishments and maintain the home fruit garden.
Hoophouse cool season crops 240 mins Pam DawlingPam Dawling
How to choose which crops to grow from among those suitable for the cool seasons, including comparing the cold-hardiness of various crops. How to grow varied and plentiful winter greens for cooking and salads; turnips, radishes and scallions. How to plan so that your hoophouse is filled with productive food crops in the cool seasons. How to calculate how much to harvest and how much to plant. How to make maps, schedules, and month by month planting lists. How to achieve a good crop rotation, and smooth seasonal transitions. How to get continuous harvests and maximize use of the valuable space, including transplanting indoors from outdoors in the fall. How to pack more in with succession planting, interplanting and follow-on cropping. The workshop includes tips to help minimize unhealthy levels of nitrates in cold weather with short days. Late winter uses can include growing bare-root transplants for planting outdoors in spring.
This document discusses the cultivation practices of cole crops like cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli. It details that these crops grow best in cool, moist climates and various soil types. Nursery beds are prepared with soil treatments and seeds are planted. Seedlings are ready for transplanting in 25-30 days when they have 5-6 leaves. In the main field, seedlings are planted at specific spacings and times depending on the variety. Crops are fertilized, irrigated, weeded, and harvested around 85-100 days later. Yields of 1200-1500 kg can be expected per unit area. The document also lists common varieties for each crop and their maturation times.
Production of late fall, winter and early spring vegetable crops Pam DawlingPam Dawling
How to grow vegetables for harvest in late fall, though the winter and in early spring, particularly in the mid-Atlantic region, zones 6-7. Includes a list of suitable crops; details about growing them; how to schedule sowings to meet desired harvest dates; extending the season with row cover, low tunnels and high tunnels (hoophouses); mitigating the challenges of hot and cold weather, and protecting crops from insects. Hoophouse information includes minimizing nitrate accumulation in leafy greens, and planning for the Persephone days when the daylight length is shorter than 10 hours. Crops include lettuce, spinach, cooking greens, Asian greens, and roots. Includes information on winter hardiness, crop spacing, yields, and successful efficient planting techniques. Names some favorite varieties. The goals are to help growers farm the back end of the year, and increase earnings and the local food supply, while reducing the likelihood of beginner errors.
Transplanting of winter vegetable seedlings involves lifting seedlings from the nursery and planting them in the main field to provide better growing conditions. Some key crops transplanted include tomatoes, cabbage, and brinjal. Transplanting provides benefits like healthier stockier plants, uniformity, and better land use. However, it also involves greater expenses and the risk of transplant shock. Seedlings should be hardened off before transplanting through methods like limiting water and exposing them to sun. The ideal time for transplanting is early morning or late evening and seedlings should be at the 4-6 week stage with a good root system.
Optimizing your asian greens production Dawling 2019Pam Dawling
This workshop covers the production of Asian greens, outdoors and in the hoop house, for both market and home growers. Learn to grow many varieties of tasty, nutritious greens easily and quickly, which will bring fast returns. This workshop includes tips on variety selection of over 20 types of Asian greens, the timing of succession planting, crop rotation in the hoop house, pest and disease management, fertility, weed management, and harvesting.
Bush Fruit Gardening Guides for Students + Teachers + Organic School Gardens
`
For more information, Please see websites below:
`
Organic Edible Schoolyards & Gardening with Children
http://scribd.com/doc/239851214
`
Double Food Production from your School Garden with Organic Tech
http://scribd.com/doc/239851079
`
Free School Gardening Art Posters
http://scribd.com/doc/239851159`
`
Companion Planting Increases Food Production from School Gardens
http://scribd.com/doc/239851159
`
Healthy Foods Dramatically Improves Student Academic Success
http://scribd.com/doc/239851348
`
City Chickens for your Organic School Garden
http://scribd.com/doc/239850440
`
Simple Square Foot Gardening for Schools - Teacher Guide
http://scribd.com/doc/239851110
How to grow and store crops which tolerate cold weather. How to protect crops from cold weather with rowcover, Quick Hoops, caterpillar tunnels and hoophouses (high tunnels). Dealing with Persephone days, nitrate accumulation in leafy greens, the effect of ethylene on stored vegetables
Winter-kill temperatures for vegetable crops,
This document provides guidance on growing vegetables from seed. It discusses selecting varieties, starting seeds indoors, hardening off seedlings, and transplanting outdoors. The document includes a seed spacing chart and ideal temperature ranges for common vegetables. It emphasizes choosing varieties suited to the local climate, starting seeds at the right time, and gradually acclimating seedlings to outdoor conditions to reduce transplant shock.
This document provides information on seed production technology for cole crops such as cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli. It discusses topics like seasonality, land requirements, isolation distances, seed rates, seed treatment, nursery practices, transplanting, manuring, rouging, staking, spraying, and harvesting. Disease and pest management is also covered. Seed production methods for cabbage and cauliflower include maintaining head/curd integrity, the stump method, and vernalization. Pollination is mainly by bees and flies and special techniques like emasculation and bud pollination are used.
The document provides information about apple trees, including that they are deciduous trees that require full light and acidic, well-drained soil. It lists common apple varieties grown in Virginia and pruning methods. It also summarizes the life cycle of apple blossoms and fruit production, and provides a calendar of tasks for apple growers throughout the year including pruning, spraying, harvesting, and soil maintenance.
Figs are a versatile, hardy tree that can grow well in containers or gardens. They prefer warm climates and well-draining soil. Figs produce two crops annually, with the first crop forming on last year's wood in winter and a larger summer crop forming from new growth. Common pests include birds, possums, fruit fly, and blister mites. Popular varieties to try include Black Genoa, Brown Turkey, and White Adriatic.
Hoophouse in spring and summer 2017 Pam DawlingPam Dawling
Food, Seeds, Cover Crops, Cut Flowers, Soil Building.
In colder zones growers use the summer hoophouse for all those hot weather crops that struggle outdoors! But if you can already grow melons, limas, okra outside, you may be left wondering how to make good use of that valuable covered space when it’s hot. As well as heat-loving crops, this presentation discusses cooling the hoophouse; using the opportunity to tackle soil-borne diseases or improve the soil and other uses like seed drying and storage.
This document discusses the aftercare of seedlings, including providing optimal light, temperature, moisture, and aeration in the seed bed. It notes that seedlings should be hardened before transplanting by gradually exposing them to field conditions through reduced watering and temperature. Proper transplanting involves retaining soil around the roots and firming and watering the seedlings after planting. Regular care like watering, weeding and protecting from frost or wind is also important after transplanting.
Growing sweet potatoes from start to finish 2020 Pam DawlingPam Dawling
Everything you need to know to be self-reliant in sweet potatoes or to grow them for sale. Includes starting your own slips, planting them, caring for the plants, harvest, saving seed stock for replanting next year, and curing and storing the sweet potatoes.
This document provides guidance on establishing and maintaining a nursery for growing seedlings. It discusses preparing raised beds, sowing seeds at the proper depth and spacing, caring for seedlings, hardening them off before transplanting, and tips for harvesting various vegetable crops. The nursery should have permanent raised beds to stabilize the soil structure. Seedlings are grown to the 4-6 leaf stage before transplanting in the evening to aid recovery. Proper spacing, weeding, and care are emphasized.
Hoophouse in fall and winter Pam DawlingPam Dawling
How to use the hoophouse in fall and winter to grow varied and plentiful greens for cooking and salads; turnips, radishes, scallions. How to get continuous harvests and maximize use of this valuable space. Tips to help minimize unhealthy levels of nitrates in cold weather. Growing bare-root transplants for planting outdoors in spring. Growing early warm-weather crops. Transplanting indoors from outdoors in the fall.
This document provides an introduction to vegetable gardening. It discusses selecting vegetables and herbs to plant, buying seeds or transplants, and planting schedules. Specific vegetables like tomatoes, potatoes, beans, and carrots are described. Tips are provided on soil preparation, planting, maintenance, and common problems. The goal is to help gardeners successfully grow their own vegetables.
The document provides guidance for growing various vegetable seeds, including general rules that apply to most seeds as well as specific tips for beans, beets, broccoli, carrots, and cucumbers. It recommends planting depths and spacing, keeping soil moist until germination, and watching for pests. Specific details are given for each vegetable on ideal soil temperature, planting times, succession planting, harvesting, diseases and pests to watch for.
Knol-khol originated in Western Europe and is a type of cabbage with an edible swollen stem. It is high in vitamins and minerals and has potential health benefits. The document discusses the morphology, varieties, growing requirements, and cultivation practices of knol-khol such as suitable climates, soils, fertilization, irrigation, pests and diseases, and harvesting at the tender stage.
Sequential planting cool season crops in a hoophouse 2019 pam dawlingPam Dawling
Which factors should you consider when planning how to keep your hoophouse filled with productive food crops in the cool seasons? Suitable crops, cold-hardiness, deciding which crops to grow, deciding how much to harvest and how much to plant, crop rotation, mapping and scheduling, month by month planting, seasonal transitions, packing more in with succession planting, interplanting and follow-on cropping.
- Vegetables and fruits should be harvested when ripe and at their peak quality. For many items this means harvesting them when they are brightly colored and firm.
- Roots, tubers, and winter squash are harvested when the plants have died back for the season. Summer squash and beans are picked while young and tender.
- Stone fruits like peaches are ready when soft to gentle pressure. Cherries are harvested with stems. Grapes color and sweeten as they ripen.
- Herbs can be harvested throughout the season, picking individual leaves or stems as needed. The time of day and season affects oil content.
This document provides information on harvesting various fruits, vegetables, and grains. It describes:
- When different fruits like apples, grapes, pears, oranges, and mangoes are ready to harvest based on signs of ripeness.
- Harvesting techniques for vegetables such as tomatoes, beans, broccoli, carrots, cucumbers, and potatoes that involve cutting or pulling the mature produce from the plant.
- Tips for post-harvest handling and storage of different crops to maintain quality and extend shelf life, such as keeping apples and cucumbers refrigerated.
- Brief descriptions of harvesting processes for some grains.
Hoophouse cool season crops 240 mins Pam DawlingPam Dawling
How to choose which crops to grow from among those suitable for the cool seasons, including comparing the cold-hardiness of various crops. How to grow varied and plentiful winter greens for cooking and salads; turnips, radishes and scallions. How to plan so that your hoophouse is filled with productive food crops in the cool seasons. How to calculate how much to harvest and how much to plant. How to make maps, schedules, and month by month planting lists. How to achieve a good crop rotation, and smooth seasonal transitions. How to get continuous harvests and maximize use of the valuable space, including transplanting indoors from outdoors in the fall. How to pack more in with succession planting, interplanting and follow-on cropping. The workshop includes tips to help minimize unhealthy levels of nitrates in cold weather with short days. Late winter uses can include growing bare-root transplants for planting outdoors in spring.
This document discusses the cultivation practices of cole crops like cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli. It details that these crops grow best in cool, moist climates and various soil types. Nursery beds are prepared with soil treatments and seeds are planted. Seedlings are ready for transplanting in 25-30 days when they have 5-6 leaves. In the main field, seedlings are planted at specific spacings and times depending on the variety. Crops are fertilized, irrigated, weeded, and harvested around 85-100 days later. Yields of 1200-1500 kg can be expected per unit area. The document also lists common varieties for each crop and their maturation times.
Production of late fall, winter and early spring vegetable crops Pam DawlingPam Dawling
How to grow vegetables for harvest in late fall, though the winter and in early spring, particularly in the mid-Atlantic region, zones 6-7. Includes a list of suitable crops; details about growing them; how to schedule sowings to meet desired harvest dates; extending the season with row cover, low tunnels and high tunnels (hoophouses); mitigating the challenges of hot and cold weather, and protecting crops from insects. Hoophouse information includes minimizing nitrate accumulation in leafy greens, and planning for the Persephone days when the daylight length is shorter than 10 hours. Crops include lettuce, spinach, cooking greens, Asian greens, and roots. Includes information on winter hardiness, crop spacing, yields, and successful efficient planting techniques. Names some favorite varieties. The goals are to help growers farm the back end of the year, and increase earnings and the local food supply, while reducing the likelihood of beginner errors.
Transplanting of winter vegetable seedlings involves lifting seedlings from the nursery and planting them in the main field to provide better growing conditions. Some key crops transplanted include tomatoes, cabbage, and brinjal. Transplanting provides benefits like healthier stockier plants, uniformity, and better land use. However, it also involves greater expenses and the risk of transplant shock. Seedlings should be hardened off before transplanting through methods like limiting water and exposing them to sun. The ideal time for transplanting is early morning or late evening and seedlings should be at the 4-6 week stage with a good root system.
Optimizing your asian greens production Dawling 2019Pam Dawling
This workshop covers the production of Asian greens, outdoors and in the hoop house, for both market and home growers. Learn to grow many varieties of tasty, nutritious greens easily and quickly, which will bring fast returns. This workshop includes tips on variety selection of over 20 types of Asian greens, the timing of succession planting, crop rotation in the hoop house, pest and disease management, fertility, weed management, and harvesting.
Bush Fruit Gardening Guides for Students + Teachers + Organic School Gardens
`
For more information, Please see websites below:
`
Organic Edible Schoolyards & Gardening with Children
http://scribd.com/doc/239851214
`
Double Food Production from your School Garden with Organic Tech
http://scribd.com/doc/239851079
`
Free School Gardening Art Posters
http://scribd.com/doc/239851159`
`
Companion Planting Increases Food Production from School Gardens
http://scribd.com/doc/239851159
`
Healthy Foods Dramatically Improves Student Academic Success
http://scribd.com/doc/239851348
`
City Chickens for your Organic School Garden
http://scribd.com/doc/239850440
`
Simple Square Foot Gardening for Schools - Teacher Guide
http://scribd.com/doc/239851110
How to grow and store crops which tolerate cold weather. How to protect crops from cold weather with rowcover, Quick Hoops, caterpillar tunnels and hoophouses (high tunnels). Dealing with Persephone days, nitrate accumulation in leafy greens, the effect of ethylene on stored vegetables
Winter-kill temperatures for vegetable crops,
This document provides guidance on growing vegetables from seed. It discusses selecting varieties, starting seeds indoors, hardening off seedlings, and transplanting outdoors. The document includes a seed spacing chart and ideal temperature ranges for common vegetables. It emphasizes choosing varieties suited to the local climate, starting seeds at the right time, and gradually acclimating seedlings to outdoor conditions to reduce transplant shock.
This document provides information on seed production technology for cole crops such as cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli. It discusses topics like seasonality, land requirements, isolation distances, seed rates, seed treatment, nursery practices, transplanting, manuring, rouging, staking, spraying, and harvesting. Disease and pest management is also covered. Seed production methods for cabbage and cauliflower include maintaining head/curd integrity, the stump method, and vernalization. Pollination is mainly by bees and flies and special techniques like emasculation and bud pollination are used.
The document provides information about apple trees, including that they are deciduous trees that require full light and acidic, well-drained soil. It lists common apple varieties grown in Virginia and pruning methods. It also summarizes the life cycle of apple blossoms and fruit production, and provides a calendar of tasks for apple growers throughout the year including pruning, spraying, harvesting, and soil maintenance.
Figs are a versatile, hardy tree that can grow well in containers or gardens. They prefer warm climates and well-draining soil. Figs produce two crops annually, with the first crop forming on last year's wood in winter and a larger summer crop forming from new growth. Common pests include birds, possums, fruit fly, and blister mites. Popular varieties to try include Black Genoa, Brown Turkey, and White Adriatic.
Hoophouse in spring and summer 2017 Pam DawlingPam Dawling
Food, Seeds, Cover Crops, Cut Flowers, Soil Building.
In colder zones growers use the summer hoophouse for all those hot weather crops that struggle outdoors! But if you can already grow melons, limas, okra outside, you may be left wondering how to make good use of that valuable covered space when it’s hot. As well as heat-loving crops, this presentation discusses cooling the hoophouse; using the opportunity to tackle soil-borne diseases or improve the soil and other uses like seed drying and storage.
This document discusses the aftercare of seedlings, including providing optimal light, temperature, moisture, and aeration in the seed bed. It notes that seedlings should be hardened before transplanting by gradually exposing them to field conditions through reduced watering and temperature. Proper transplanting involves retaining soil around the roots and firming and watering the seedlings after planting. Regular care like watering, weeding and protecting from frost or wind is also important after transplanting.
Growing sweet potatoes from start to finish 2020 Pam DawlingPam Dawling
Everything you need to know to be self-reliant in sweet potatoes or to grow them for sale. Includes starting your own slips, planting them, caring for the plants, harvest, saving seed stock for replanting next year, and curing and storing the sweet potatoes.
This document provides guidance on establishing and maintaining a nursery for growing seedlings. It discusses preparing raised beds, sowing seeds at the proper depth and spacing, caring for seedlings, hardening them off before transplanting, and tips for harvesting various vegetable crops. The nursery should have permanent raised beds to stabilize the soil structure. Seedlings are grown to the 4-6 leaf stage before transplanting in the evening to aid recovery. Proper spacing, weeding, and care are emphasized.
Hoophouse in fall and winter Pam DawlingPam Dawling
How to use the hoophouse in fall and winter to grow varied and plentiful greens for cooking and salads; turnips, radishes, scallions. How to get continuous harvests and maximize use of this valuable space. Tips to help minimize unhealthy levels of nitrates in cold weather. Growing bare-root transplants for planting outdoors in spring. Growing early warm-weather crops. Transplanting indoors from outdoors in the fall.
This document provides an introduction to vegetable gardening. It discusses selecting vegetables and herbs to plant, buying seeds or transplants, and planting schedules. Specific vegetables like tomatoes, potatoes, beans, and carrots are described. Tips are provided on soil preparation, planting, maintenance, and common problems. The goal is to help gardeners successfully grow their own vegetables.
The document provides guidance for growing various vegetable seeds, including general rules that apply to most seeds as well as specific tips for beans, beets, broccoli, carrots, and cucumbers. It recommends planting depths and spacing, keeping soil moist until germination, and watching for pests. Specific details are given for each vegetable on ideal soil temperature, planting times, succession planting, harvesting, diseases and pests to watch for.
Knol-khol originated in Western Europe and is a type of cabbage with an edible swollen stem. It is high in vitamins and minerals and has potential health benefits. The document discusses the morphology, varieties, growing requirements, and cultivation practices of knol-khol such as suitable climates, soils, fertilization, irrigation, pests and diseases, and harvesting at the tender stage.
Sequential planting cool season crops in a hoophouse 2019 pam dawlingPam Dawling
Which factors should you consider when planning how to keep your hoophouse filled with productive food crops in the cool seasons? Suitable crops, cold-hardiness, deciding which crops to grow, deciding how much to harvest and how much to plant, crop rotation, mapping and scheduling, month by month planting, seasonal transitions, packing more in with succession planting, interplanting and follow-on cropping.
- Vegetables and fruits should be harvested when ripe and at their peak quality. For many items this means harvesting them when they are brightly colored and firm.
- Roots, tubers, and winter squash are harvested when the plants have died back for the season. Summer squash and beans are picked while young and tender.
- Stone fruits like peaches are ready when soft to gentle pressure. Cherries are harvested with stems. Grapes color and sweeten as they ripen.
- Herbs can be harvested throughout the season, picking individual leaves or stems as needed. The time of day and season affects oil content.
This document provides information on harvesting various fruits, vegetables, and grains. It describes:
- When different fruits like apples, grapes, pears, oranges, and mangoes are ready to harvest based on signs of ripeness.
- Harvesting techniques for vegetables such as tomatoes, beans, broccoli, carrots, cucumbers, and potatoes that involve cutting or pulling the mature produce from the plant.
- Tips for post-harvest handling and storage of different crops to maintain quality and extend shelf life, such as keeping apples and cucumbers refrigerated.
- Brief descriptions of harvesting processes for some grains.
This document provides information on various fruits and vegetables that are well-suited for the 2019 growing season. It describes 46 different varieties, including details on things like days to maturity, disease resistance, yield, flavor and appearance. The varieties include herbs, berries, greens, root vegetables, cucurbits and more. Recommendations are provided for spring, summer or fall planting depending on the variety.
This document discusses several varieties of loquat trees, categorized by fruit flesh color. It provides descriptions of physical traits like fruit size, shape, skin and flesh color as well as taste, ripening time, and other characteristics for over a dozen varieties, including Big Jim, Early Red, Gold Nugget, Mogi, Mrs. Cooksey, Strawberry, Wolfe, Advance, Benlehr, Champagne, Herd's Mammoth, Victory, and Vista White. The varieties originate from locations around the world and differ in terms of productivity, disease resistance, pollination requirements and suitability for various uses.
This document provides information on the turnip plant. It discusses:
1. The botanical name of turnip is Brassica rapa Linn. It is a member of the Cruciferae family.
2. Turnip is a quick growing root vegetable cultivated for its roots and leaves. Major growing regions include Bihar, Punjab, and Haryana in India.
3. Common varieties include Purple Top White Globe, Pusa Kanchan, and Pusa Swarnima. Seed production involves selecting roots and replanting them to produce seed.
25 .Harvesting of kitchen gardening A Series of Lectures By Mr. Allah ...Mr.Allah Dad Khan
The document discusses guidelines for harvesting various vegetable crops. It provides tips on when each vegetable is ripe and ready to harvest, such as harvesting asparagus spears when they are 6-8 inches tall, beans before seeds develop in the pod, and tomatoes at the appealing ripeness stage. The key signs of ripeness mentioned are size, color, texture and taste tests. It stresses harvesting vegetables in the morning when cooler and processing them as soon as possible to preserve quality and flavor.
When to Harvest Vegetables - New Mexico State UniversityEric832w
This document provides harvesting guidelines for various vegetables. It recommends harvesting asparagus spears when 6 to 10 inches long, before heads open. Beans should be harvested when pods are full-sized but seeds are still tender. Carrots are ready when 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Tomatoes are ripe for picking at the pink stage while still firm. The guidelines aim to harvest vegetables at their peak quality before they become overmature or damaged.
64 .Kitchen garden ( sign of harvest of vegetables)Mr.Allah Dad Khan
A Series of Lectures By Mr. Allah Dad Khan Former DG Agriculture Extension KPK , Provincial Project Director CMP II MINFAl Islamabad and Visiting Professor the University of Agriculture Peshawar Pakistan
The document provides guidelines for harvesting various vegetables at their optimum times. It lists 28 different vegetables and describes signs that indicate when each should be picked, such as size, color, firmness, and taste. Harvesting at the right stage helps ensure the vegetables' nutritional content, freshness, and flavor are preserved. The summary emphasizes harvesting vegetables in the morning and processing them promptly after picking.
Sign of harvest of vegetables a learning to basic horticulture a research no...Mr.Allah Dad Khan
The document provides guidelines for harvesting various vegetables at their optimum times. It lists 28 different vegetables and describes signs that indicate when each should be picked, such as size, color, firmness, and taste. Harvesting at the right stage helps ensure the vegetables' nutritional content, freshness, and flavor are preserved. The summary emphasizes harvesting vegetables in the morning and processing them promptly after picking.
The document provides planting and harvesting instructions for several vegetables to be grown in a 10x10 community garden plot throughout the spring, summer, and fall seasons. In the spring, onions should be planted 4 weeks before the last frost with 5 inches between sets. Beets require a soil temperature of 50 degrees F and can be planted from March to September. In the summer, cucumbers and beans are planted with a minimum soil temperature of 65 degrees for cucumbers. Fall crops include turnips, which are planted 6-10 weeks before harvesting, and peas which are sown when temperatures reach 45 degrees F.
Persimmon is a fruit native to East Asia that is now cultivated in many parts of the world. There are several species of persimmon trees that produce edible fruits, with Diospyros kaki being the most important commercially. Persimmons grow on deciduous trees and require warm temperate or subtropical climates to fruit properly. The fruits vary in shape, size, and color depending on the species, with some having astringent flesh that becomes sweet and soft after frost. Persimmons are propagated through grafting and require pruning, fertilization, and irrigation for optimal growth and production.
Growing and Preserving Your Own Fruits and VegetablesSherry Ellis
Reap the benefits of growing your own fruits and vegetables by learning how to plan and maintain a garden. You will also learn about which plants work together and which don't, and how to can and preserve the fruits of your labors, so they can be enjoyed year-round.
Slides include production technology of loquat, its origin and distribution in Pakistan, plant description, environmental and cultural requirements etc..
16.grape vine varities in the world By Allah dad Khan Mr.Allah Dad Khan
This document summarizes grape varieties from around the world. It describes American varieties such as Flame Seedless, Black Monukka, Canadice, Vanessa, Thompson Seedless, Ruby Seedless, Red Seedless, Black Beauty, Muscat Grapes, Autumn Royal Grapes and European varieties including Beauty Seedless, Candice, Red Flame Grapes, Cardinal, Black Monukka Grapes, Concord, Fantasy Seedless, Italia Muscat, Marroo Seedless, Ribier, Ruby Seedless, Red Globe. It also covers Pakistani varieties like Sunderkhani, Sahibi, Spin-kishmish, Huwaini, Sheikh Ali, Khal chini
This document provides information on radish, including its botanical name, family, origin in Egypt, and chromosome number. It discusses radish taxonomy, cultivation, varieties, breeding objectives like early rooting and disease resistance. Key radish varieties are described like White Icicle, Scarlet Globe, and Japanese White. Breeding methods discussed include mass selection, pedigree breeding, hybrid breeding, and breeding for biotic stress resistance.
This document provides information on new vegetable varieties for 2014, including basil, beans, beets, carrots, collards, cucumbers, eggplants, kale, leeks, lettuce, melons, microgreens, okra, onions, peas, peppers, radishes, squash, tomatoes, and more. Each variety is described in 1-2 sentences highlighting key traits such as size, flavor, yield, disease resistance, and days to maturity. In total, over 40 new vegetable varieties are summarized.
This document discusses different varieties of lychee fruits found around the world. It describes 12 varieties found in various regions including Emperor, Mauritius, Sweet Heart, Brewster, Haak Yip, Bengal, Souey Tung, Wai Chee, Kaimana, Salathiel, Tai So, and Fay Zee Siu. It also discusses 13 varieties found in India including China, Elachi, Purbi, Early Seedless, Bombai, Calcutta, Dehra Dun, and Gulabi. The varieties differ in size, shape, color, taste, and time of ripening.
This document summarizes best practices for managing trees during drought conditions. It discusses how drought impacts trees, effective irrigation strategies like hydrozoning and using drip irrigation, and other drought management techniques. It also provides recommendations for selecting drought-resilient tree species for urban landscapes, describing species from zones 4-7 that can tolerate lower water conditions. Examples of susceptible and tolerant species are given. The goal is to keep urban trees healthy during water shortages through irrigation optimization and choosing adapted plants.
This document summarizes the results of a life cycle assessment (LCA) comparing bioplastic containers to petroleum-based containers. The LCA analyzed the environmental impacts from cradle-to-gate and partial cradle-to-grave. For the cradle-to-gate analysis, bioplastics made from PLA, PHA, and various biocomposite formulations were compared to polypropylene containers. The LCA found that the bioplastics generally had higher global warming and fossil fuel impacts than polypropylene, though some formulations like PLA-SPA-BioRes performed better. A partial cradle-to-grave analysis considered various end-of-life scenarios for the containers.
This document summarizes several experiments conducted on bioplastic containers for growing plants. A container aesthetics experiment tested various bioplastic formulations for growing gerbera and asparagus fern over 10-15 weeks. A shuttle tray experiment grew marigolds in different bioplastic containers for 7 weeks. A container nutrition trial grew marigolds in various bioplastic and petroleum plastic containers with 5 fertilizer treatments over 5 weeks. The nutrition trial showed differences in plant growth and nitrogen uptake between container materials and fertilizer levels.
1) A survey of 241 consumers found that while price and durability most influence plant container purchases, over 50% would pay more for renewable, biodegradable, or fertilizing containers.
2) Cluster analysis identified two groups: "The Green Ones" favor environmental attributes and would pay up to $1 extra, while "The Ones Who Do Not Act" prioritize price and would pay up to $0.25 extra.
3) A container trial at greenhouses and gardens sold the most PHA-DDGS, PLA-Soy-Biores, and recycled paper fiber containers, suggesting consumer interest in bioplastics.
This document summarizes research on bioplastic container cropping systems and biodegradation of biocontainers in soil and compost. Over multiple rounds of experiments, various bioplastic materials and composites were tested for biodegradation rates in both soil over 1.5 years and industrial compost over 12 weeks. Materials with high biomass content like PHA and PLA composites with soy exhibited nearly complete degradation within the testing periods. Temperature was found to strongly correlate with degradation rates in compost. Additional rounds tested commercial-grade biocontainers and impacts of colorants on compostability. Future work may develop biocontainers that pelletize into fertilizer after use.
Jake Behrens presented on biocontainer materials made from renewable polymers and fillers. Various polymer matrices like PLA and PHA were evaluated along with fillers such as soy polymer, lignin, and DDGS to increase degradation and strength properties. Formulations were processed via extrusion and injection molding, which presented difficulties due to lack of shear thinning and high injection pressures. Results from tensile and crush tests showed that filler content inversely affected strength, and adding 1% colorant improved appearance and strength. The conclusions were to avoid moisture during processing, decrease temperatures with a plasticizer, and that colorant aided properties.
The survey found that over 90% of gardening consumers are willing to purchase bioplastic plant pots. Biodegradable and fertilizing pots had the highest willingness to purchase and pay extra. Pots labeled "compostable" will appeal most to environmentally sensitive consumers, who are more willing to purchase and pay more for bioplastic pots compared to the overall population. Key factors influencing purchase included willingness to compost, experience with peat pots, and concerns about GMOs. Younger consumers and renters were willing to pay more for fertilizing pots.
The document summarizes current research on bioplastics being conducted through a collaborative research center. It provides an overview of plastics and processing methods like injection molding. It reviews the history of bioplastics beginning in the late 1800s. Current bioplastics like PLA, PHB, and bio-PET are discussed along with their production and degradation. The center aims to develop high-value products from agricultural and forest resources, promote compatibility with industry, and support economic growth. Projects focus on biopolymers, composites, coatings and adhesives. Member universities contribute expertise in materials science, engineering and agriculture.
This document summarizes research on the economics and marketing of bioplastic containers. It discusses the goals and limitations of cost-benefit analysis for bioplastics. It also analyzes survey data on consumers' and producers' willingness to pay for bioplastic pots. The surveys found that consumers are generally willing to pay a modest premium for bioplastic pots with certain desirable characteristics like improved plant health or soil biodegradability. Producers of bioplastics may also find a market among consumers interested in environmentally-friendly products.
This document summarizes a project to develop sustainable bioplastic container systems for greenhouse and nursery crop production. The project aims to create bioplastic containers that function as well as petroleum-based plastics during plant growth but can then degrade, providing fertilizer or soil conditioning. Over four billion petroleum plastic containers are used annually but less than 2% are recycled. The project will screen bioplastic formulations, improve top performers, and collaborate with manufacturers and growers to commercialize the best materials. Eighteen formulations were developed and ten prototypes will be commercially tested.
Green Industry Continuing Education Series
November 18, 2015
12 noon - 2 p.m.
Instructors:
Darren Blackford, Entomologist, USDA-Forest Service
Gene Phillips, Forest Health Specialist, Nevada Division of Forestry
This document discusses soil, mulch, and irrigation requirements for trees. It begins by outlining the negative effects of drought on trees, such as wilting leaves and reduced growth. It then discusses the myth that tree roots need oxygen and explains that as long as gases can freely exchange, roots will not die from a lack of oxygen. The document also covers ideal soil composition, including the importance of organic matter and pore space. Finally, it provides recommendations for amending soil, applying mulch, and using drip irrigation to improve drought resilience in trees.
This document discusses rules for estimating tree irrigation demand and surviving drought. It introduces four factors to consider: 1) transpiration rate, 2) rooting depth, 3) desiccation tolerance, and 4) tree size. It then discusses specific rules, including using reference evapotranspiration (ETo) and plant factors to estimate water use, grouping plants into hydrozones based on water needs, and estimating individual tree water use based on density and crown diameter. The goal is to provide a simple method for estimating when and how much to irrigate trees to keep them healthy with limited water supplies.
This document summarizes a seminar on trees and drought held in Reno, Nevada on September 26, 2014. It discusses the National Plant Diagnostic Network (NPDN), their role in invasive pest detection and identification, and examples of invasive pests that have caused damage, including the Asian Longhorned Beetle and Emerald Ash Borer. The seminar provided training to attendees so they could become registered First Detectors to help monitor for invasive species through the NPDN.
This document discusses selecting drought-resilient trees. It notes that drought is an increasing issue, causing tree losses. Trees have various adaptations for managing water loss, like reducing leaf area and temperature. Effective strategies include selecting native plants, looking for drought-tolerant characteristics, and choosing trees with extensive root systems. The document lists many resilient evergreen and deciduous tree species for Nevada, but cautions that some invasive species should be avoided. It emphasizes choosing the right plant for the site to minimize water and maintenance needs.
This document discusses the role of extension professionals in linking scientific research to practical application for producers. It emphasizes that research needs to provide information that influences profitability and risk management. The challenges of technology transfer include issues like impractical products, unfamiliarity, and previous bad experiences. Extension can help with applied research expertise, education experience, and relationships with key producers. The document outlines input from Utah producers on bioplastics research, including developing brand recognition, testing in local soils, and potential uses. It stresses the importance of including economics analysis, producer input, and outreach methods like workshops and field days to communicate results.
This document discusses bioplastic pots made from zein, a protein from corn. Zein pots fully biodegrade in soil within a few months when filled with organic potting substrates. However, plants grown in zein pots showed stunted growth. Experiments found that as zein pots biodegrade, they raise ammonium, EC, and pH levels in the substrate, which can delay root growth. Reformulating zein pots to reduce the protein content or slow degradation may help address this issue. Overall, zein-based bioplastic pots show potential as a compostable alternative to traditional plastic pots.
The document provides a five-step process for obtaining a login for a new volunteer management system: 1) Navigate to the website, 2) Request access by entering your email address, 3) Gain access by clicking the link in the confirmation email, 4) Change your password, and 5) Celebrate joining a system that saves paper by electronic timesheet tracking. Contact information is provided for assistance.
More from University of Nevada Cooperative Extension (20)
Master Gardener Volunteer Management System Instructions
Grow Your Own, Nevada! Fall 2011: Harvesting, Preserving and Winterizing
1.
2. Helpful links and
resources
Getting Started with a Vegetable
Garden
www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files
/ho/2010/fs1015.pdf
Searching for Fact Sheets?
www.extension.org
www.growyourownnevada.com
3. Onions Garlic
•The ideal onion bulb is 2 to 4 • Harvest when the leaves lose
•inches in diameter. color and the tops begin to fall
•Pull all onions when the tops fall over.
over.
•Let the harvested onions dry for a
day or two with the tops on; then clip
1 inch above bulb before storing
them in a cool, dry place.
•Harvest green onions when they
are 6 to 8 inches tall.
4. Peas Spinach
• If the peas will be shelled, • Harvested when the large
harvest the pods when they are leaves are 4 to 6 inches long.
shiny green and fully developed. • Pull the larger, whole plants or
• Overly mature peas are of poor harvest the older leaves and
quality. allow new growth to develop.
• For the edible podded varieties
(such as snow and Chinese
peas), harvest when the pods
are fully developed (about 3
inches) and before the seeds are
more than half developed.
5. Greens - Swiss
Chard Rhubarb
• There are many kinds of • Only the long, thick leaf petioles,
greens, including beet the ―stalks,‖ are edible. Wait until
greens, collards, dandelions, kale, the second season, or the third
mustard greens, Swiss season if the plants were started
chard, turnip greens, and others. from seed, before harvesting.
• Break off the outer leaves when • To pick, hold the stalk firmly, pull,
they are 6 to 10 inches long and and twist. Using a knife to cut the
before they start to yellow. stalks from the plant is not
• Avoid wilted or flabby leaves. recommended.
• The harvest season for rhubarb
lasts until the end of June. Until
then, pick as many stalks as you
wish.
6. Root Crops
Jerusalem
Radishes artichoke:
• Harvest radishes when • Dig the tubers after early
they are about 1 inch in fall frosts or in very early
diameter. spring before the new
growth starts.
7. Beets Carrots
• Pull early beets when they are • Carrots are ready to be
about 2 inches in diameter. If harvested when they are small
they are allowed to get much and succulent.
larger, they become • Do not let them get over about
woody, especially in warm, dry 1 inch in diameter.
weather. • Always pull the largest carrots
• For late-crop beets, remove all in the row.
but about 1½ inches of the
tops.
8. Potatoes
• Mature tubers can be
harvested after leaves have
dried or when tubers have
reached full size.
• For Irish potatoes, a good
harvest size is 2 to 3 inches in
diameter. (individual
preference is the rule)
• Harvest ―new‖ potatoes at any
size, but generally do not dig
before they are 1¼ to 1½
inches in diameter.
• ―New‖ small potatoes can be
harvested about 7-8 weeks
after planting.
• Let the potatoes dry several
hours in garden after digging
them.
9. Irish Potatoes
Cultivar Remarks
Kennebec Smooth, oblong white tuber; heavy yields; good quality;
high starch.
Irish Cobbler Round white tuber; early; well adapted, high starch.
Pontiac Round, oblong red tuber; heavy yields; low starch.
Superior Early, round white tubers; moderate heat tolerance; low
starch.
All Blue Deep blue/purple-colored skins and flesh. Retains color after
cooking as well. Suitable for all cooking. Mid to late
maturity; vigorous plants. Blue flowered; medium starch.
Yukon Gold Mid-early variety; oval, medium-large potato with light yellow
flesh. Large, upright plants have violet flowers; medium starch.
Dark Red Norland Early, stores well. Oval-oblong, smooth red potato with white
flesh. Great for early digging. Medium-large purple flowering plants with
low starch
10. Cucumbers Beans
• Harvest them when fruits are • Harvest these beans when the
bright, firm, and green and pods are well filled but have
before they get too large. not begun to yellow.
• A rule of thumb: harvest sweet Beans—snap:
pickles at 1½ to 2 inches long; • For maximum tenderness,
• harvest dills when they are 3 to harvest snap beans before
4 inches long, bright green, they are fully mature, when the
and less crisp. pods are almost full size but
• Avoid yellowed cucumbers. before the seeds begin to
bulge.
11. Melons Winter Squash
Muskmelon: Pumpkins:
• muskmelon when it is at three • Pick pumpkins when they are full
quarters to full slip; full slip or ripe is size, the rind is firm and glossy, and
when the stem separates readily the bottom of the fruit (the portion
from the fruit under moderate touching the soil) is cream to orange
pressure and leaves a circular colored.
depression. • Harvest before frost or when rind
• The outer rind should not have any resist fingernails scratches. Leave a
green color. 2 to 4 inch stem with the fruit.
Watermelon:
• Harvest watermelon when the fruits Winter Squash
are full size and have a dull surface • when the fruits are full size. The rind
and a cream-colored ground spot. is firm and glossy and bottom
• If it’s a dull sound , similar to tapping (portion touching soil) of fruit is
your forehead, it’s not ripe. A hollow cream to orange colored.
sound, similar to tapping you chest • Light frost will not damage mature
means it’s ripe. fruit.
Honeydew:
• When it is yellowish to creamy white
with a soft, velvety feel. The rind
should be slightly soft at the
blossom end and have a
faint, pleasant odor.
12. Summer Squash Corn
• Harvest squash when it is 4 • Watch corn for signs of
to 6 inches long for yellow ripeness for earliest harvest.
crookneck squash, 6 to 8 • Corn silks darken and dry
inches long for yellow out as the ears mature.
straight neck, and 3 to 4 • As the kernels fill out toward
inches in diameter for white the top, the ends become
scallop. more rounded instead of
pointed.
• A glossy color indicates
• Pick sweet corn in the milk
tenderness. stage, when a milk like juice
exudes from the kernels if
crushed with a thumbnail.
13. Peppers Eggplant
• Harvest bell peppers • Harvest eggplants
when they are 4 to 5 when the fruits are
inches long and have
full, well-formed near full size—about
lobes. Immature 6 to 8 inches in
peppers are pale, diameter—but still
soft, pliable, and thin firm and bright in
fleshed.
color.
• Harvest jalapeños
when they are 2 to • Older fruits become
2½ inches long. soft, seedy, and dull
• Mature peppers turn colored.
orange or red; this
does not mean that
they are hotter.
14. Tomatoes
• Harvest tomatoes when
they are fully colored but
still firm.
• Harvest red tomatoes for
eating fresh, cooking, or
canning.
• Do not can overripe
tomatoes!
• If necessary, pick mature
green or slightly pink
tomatoes and ripen them
at room temperature, out
of direct sunlight.
16. Pip Fruits
Apples
• Pick ripe apples from the
tree by pulling fruit upward Pears
and outward while rotating
the fruit slightly. • Pears picked when slightly
• If picked prematurely, apples immature will ripen with
are likely to be better quality than pears
sour, tough, small and poorly that are over mature when
colored; if picked picked.
overripe, they may develop
internal breakdown and store • Most mature, ready to ripen
poorly. pears will usually detach
• a frost will not sweeten or when "tilted" to a horizontal
mature apples or other fruit. position from their usual
Sugars accumulate with vertical hanging position.
bright, warm (not hot) days
17. Stone Trees
Stone fruits include peaches, plums, cherries, and
apricots: all have a hard pit
Peach/ Apricot/ Nectarine
• As stone fruits ripen, the flesh softens
and the skin changes from green to
purple, red, orange, or a combination of
these colors. You may test for ripeness
by applying pressure (the flesh should
yield to gentle thumb pressure), but the
best way to determine ripeness is to
taste the fruit. harvested without the
stems attached.
• To harvest without hurting the fruit buds
for next year’s crop, twist the fruit
slightly while pulling. Handle fruit gently
to avoid bruising.
18. Cherry
• Fruit maturity can be
determined by color
• sweet cherries are hand-
harvested leaving the
pedicels intact.
19. Shrubs
Cane Fruit Gooseberry
• Raspberries are ready to • Many gardeners pick
pick when they easily gooseberries when they
separate from the receptacle reach full size, but are not
or core. fully ripe. (At this stage, the
• Blackberries do not separate fruit are green, tart, and still
from the core, so ripeness quite hard.)
should be judged by color • Others prefer to allow the
and taste. fruit to ripen to a pinkish color
• All bramble fruit are and sweeter flavor.
extremely perishable &
should be harvested
frequently.
20. Grapes
Grapes
• Color, size, sweetness, and
flavor are the most useful
indicators of table grape
maturity.
• Berry color will change from
green to blue, red, or white
as the different grape
varieties approach maturity.
• Color alone should not be
the sole basis for harvesting
grapes. The berries of many
varieties change color long
before they are fully ripe.
21. Strawberries Currants
• Strawberries are • Fully ripe currants are
fully ripe when slightly soft, juicy, and
uniformly red. Pick develop the
the berries with the characteristic color of
cap and stem
attached to retain the variety.
firmness and • Most currant varieties
quality. are red at maturity, a
• When few are white.
harvesting, pinch • Harvest currants by
the stem off about picking the fruit clusters
1/4 inch above the from the plant then
cap.
stripping individual
berries from the stem.
22. Herbs
•The time of day and time of season can affect
the quantity of oil present in the leaves of your
herbs. The oil present in the leaves can
determine the flavor intensity of the herb and its
nutritional content or medicinal value.
•Harvest your herbs on a dry day, in late
morning after the dew has evaporated.
•Harvest your herbs before the plants flower
(the energy it takes to produce the flowers can
reduce the oil content in the leaves and the
existence of flowers can slow or stop the further
production of leaves).
•Remove any flower heads from the plant to
ensure it keeps producing as many leaves as
possible.
•Harvest your herbs on the same day you
intend to use them, preferably just a couple of
hours beforehand. This preserves their
freshness.
•For more information on herbs:
www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/components/M1223.pdf
24. Food Safety
• Your life depends on it!
• Only use fresh, clean
food
• When canning, know the
pH and your altitude
• Maintain proper
temperatures, avoid the
―danger zone‖
• Label everything with
name & date to ensure it
is consumed within its
25. Cold Storage
Refrigerated, 33°to 38° Cold Storage, 39° to 50°
• Vegetables: • Squashes, Onions &
– All Veggies except Potatoes
tomatoes – Must be washed, dried,
and cured before storage
– Keep a high relative
humidity – Onions can be stored in
mesh bags
• Use crisper drawer
• Perforated plastic bags • Apples (store away from
– Root Vegetables should
other vegetables and
have the greens removed fruits as they emit
to a ¼‖ and the tap root cut ethylene gas)
off – Must be kept humid to
prevent shriveling
Storing Vegetables at Home - Fact Sheet A1135
http://nchfp.uga.edu/how/store/wisc_vegetables.pdf
26. Freezing
temperatures 20°- 30°
Vegetables
• Most should be blanched
prior to freezing;
blanching is immersing in
boiling water then quickly
cooling. Time varies with
the vegetable
• Vacuum sealing, freezer-
specific plastic bags and
boxes, and glass canning
jars best
Preserving Food: Freezing Vegetables
Complete information on freezing food at home, Pub # FDNS-E-43-5
The University of Georgia Cooperative Extension
http://www.fcs.uga.edu/ext/pubs/fdns/FDNS-E-43-05.pdf
27. Freezing
temperatures 20°- 30°
Meats & Dairy
• Meats should be
repackaged into freezer
paper or vacuum sealed if
they are purchased in
plastic wrapped
styrofoam containers
• Cheese should be
packed in freezer paper
or vacuum sealed Feb. 2011
28. Dehydrating
Meats & Dairy Fruits & Vegetables
• Must be temperature • To prevent browning dip
controlled. A minimum of fruits in lemon juice.
160° required to ensure • Some fruits need to be
safety. blanched before drying
29. Canning
Water Bath Method
Things to know
• Know your pH
• 4.6 or higher cannot be • Check jars for cracks and
water bath canned chips (even new jars)
• Steam canning is not • Only use lids once
recommended • Use a proven USDA or
• Know your altitude University tested recipe
• Maintain proper head
space
• Maintain 1‖ of water
above the lid
30. Resources
National Center for Home Food Preservation
www.nchfp.uga.edu
Ball / Kerr
www.freshpreserving.com
Canning Pantry
http://www.canningpantry.com/
33. Double Digging
1.Spread a layer of compost and other soil amendments on the surface of the area to be dug.
2.Using a spade or short-handled shovel, remove a trench of soil approximately one foot deep and one foot wide
along the narrow end of the bed.
3.Loosen the soil at the bottom of the trench with the shovel or a spading fork. Avoid mixing soil layers as much as
possible.
4.Dig a one foot by one foot trench next to your existing one and place the soil removed on top of the loosened
soil in your first trench.
5.Repeat steps 3 and 4 along the length of the bed.
The seeds, leaves, flowering tops, bark, and occasionally the roots of the different plants are used for flavoring purposes. Their flavor is due for the most park to a volatile or essential oil contained in small glands in the leaves, seeds, and fruits. The flavor is retained longer if the herbs are harvested at the right time and properly cured and stored. The young tender leaves can be gathered and used fresh at any time during the season, but for winter use they should be harvested when the plants begin to flower, and should be dried rapidly in a well-ventilated, darkened room. If the leaves are at all dusty or gritty, they should be washed in cold water and thoroughly drained before drying. The tender leaf herbs -- basil, costmary, tarragon, lemon balm, and the mints -- which have a high moisture content, must be dried rapidly away from the light if they are to retain their green color. If dried too slowly, they will turn dark or mold. For this reason a well ventilated, darkened room, such as an attic or other dry, airy room, furnishes ideal conditions for curing these herbs in a short time. The less succulent leaf herbs -- sage, rosemary, thyme, and summer savory -- which contain less moisture, can be partially dried in the sun without affecting their color, but too long exposure should be avoided. The seed crops should be harvested when mature or when their color changes from green to brown or gray. A few plants of the annual varieties should be left undisturbed to flower and mature seed for planting each season. Seeds should be thoroughly dried before storing, to prevent loss of viability for planting and to prevent molding or loss of quality. After curing for several days in an airy room, a day or two in the sun before storing will insure safekeeping. As soon as the herb leaves or seeds are dry they should be cleaned by separating them from stems and other foreign matter and packed in suitable containers to prevent loss of the essential oils that give the herbs their delicate flavor. Glass, metal, or cardboard containers that can be closed tightly will preserve the odor and flavor. Glass jars make satisfactory containers, but they must be painted black or stored in a dark room to prevent bleaching of the green leaves by light. Drying. After harvesting, hang herbs in loosely tied bundles in a well-ventilated room. You can also spread the branches on a screen or cheesecloth, or spread herb leaves on flat trays when only the leaves are needed. To keep dust off the herbs, use a cloth or similar protective cover that allows moisture to pass through.It is generally best to dry naturally in a cool, dark room rather than use artificial heat. Experts can use artificial heat, but you may lose flavor and quality by attempting this drying method.
Beet and Goat Cheese Salad with SpinachInspired by The City Cook6 to 8 small to medium red or golden beets, or a variety of both4 cups baby spinach, washed and dried1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced2/3 cup crumbled goat cheese1/4 cup pine nuts1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil plus 2 tablespoons4 tablespoons red wine vinegar1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juiceSaltPepperPre-heat oven to 425º F.Scrub the beets and trim off the tops. Do not peel them.Tear off 5 inch portions of aluminum foil for as many beets as you have. If you have some small beets, they can be grouped together. Wrap each beet in their foil and seal well. Place the beet packets on a sheet pan and roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until tender and their skins slide off easily.Radishes differ in shape and color of their roots. In terms of form, there are round radishes, half long (most wanted) or long. They can be white, pale pink, bright red, purplish red, black and white often with a bit more or less important. They also differ according to time of cultivation and harvesting:• Radishes to force: they are early, with small leaves, and cultures for haste (under plastic tunnels) and the first plantings homeless. Radishes are formed quickly and without waiting to be harvested because they become hollow very quickly. There are radishes to force long, long, half round, red, bright red with a white tip more often.• Radishes of every month they are grown in the ground and are likely, as the name implies, to be sown for a long period from mid-March to late September. They are round radishes and a half-length, pink, red, bright red with a white tip more often.• The radish radishes: radishes as all the months, it is possible to grow them over a long period. Their culture time is longer and the crops begin 6-8 weeks after sowing. These radish long, narrow and pointed. They have a soft flesh with a sweet flavor. They do not become empty quickly.• Radishes summer and autumn varieties are sown in the summer, from June to August. These are large radish, root at long or round, pink, red, bright red, white. They have a soft flesh with a taste and do not become empty quickly. They are delicious grated and eaten in salads.• The winter radish: their root is usually long and cylindrical, sometimes round, black or purple. Their flesh is firm, more or less pungent flavor, and they consume sliced. Sown in summer, they are harvested from November. It is possible to keep them in the cellar to keep them all winter.Soil and exposure> Radishes like:• The sunny, but they accept partial shade.• Soils light and fresh.• The regular watering during dry and hot.• Soils rich in humus.> Radishes do not like:• The pebbles or soil too compact that hinder root development.• Drought makes radishes hollow quills.Sowing and plantingPeriods of seedlings vary depending on the type of radish. They start as early as mid-February and protection force for radish. They continue until September to March with radishes every month from June to August for summer radishes, autumn and winter. In October, it is possible to sow radishes forcing under plastic tunnels.> Spacing2 to 3 cm between plants15 cm for winter radish• Avoid planting too thick, otherwise the radishes will form easily. After sowing, the soil should be well compacted. Then, it is useful to cover the seed with a thin layer of soil. The round varieties should be planted close to the surface, half-long varieties deeper and long (1.5 to 3 cm).• For regular harvests and quality, we must sow small amounts several times, every 2 to 3 weeks for example and clear after emergence.• The radishes are grown in forcing under plastic tunnels or in the ground. They are planted on the fly with harvest beginning 4-6 weeks later.• Radishes of all months, the radishes turnips, radishes, summer and fall are sown on the fly in wide rows or rows spaced 10 to 20 cm.For radish every month, the culture time from 4 to 6 weeks. It is longer by about 2 weeks for radishes turnips and radishes summer and fall (6-8 weeks).• The winter radishes are sown in rows 25 to 30 cm. It is then necessary to clarify the culture by simply leaving a radish on the line every 15 cm.Crop managementRadishes are very easy to grow. After emergence, it should clear up the plants to facilitate the development of radish. Then you have to constantly keep the soil cool by frequent light watering but especially in summer. In this way, radishes become slower hollow quills.Crops should be regular when the radishes are formed. Do not delay not to give them time to become hollow. For regular consumption of crisp radish and tasty, it is necessary to stagger plantings every 2 to 3 weeks.EnemiesBecause of the short duration between sowing and harvesting, there is no treatment to predict. The regular watering can prevent attacks by beetles that devour the leaves of radish.
In-Soil Growing Methods:The Double Digging ApproachThis method of creating planting beds is similar to raised beds in some ways. In this approach, the soil is deeply worked not with a plow, rototiller or harrows, but with shovel and/or pitchfork (but be sure to check out our Update below). The approach works best when combined with planting beds as opposed to single-row or wide block plantings.The double-dug method is aptly named because the simplest technique is to dig down two spade or shovel blade depths. The first spade depth is actually lifted and removed from that section of the planting bed (and returned later either into the previous section, or at the end of the bed). Then once that first spade depth worth of soil has been lifted, a second spade depth (or pitchfork depth) is worked loose to allow extremely deep root penetrations. Advantages:The advantages of this approach are:1) a tremendous amount of air is mixed into the soil when digging and moving the various blocks of soil. If the planting beds are not subsequently walked on, that extremely loose soil stays well aerated throughout the growing season. Plant roots, soil organisms and water also have an easier time moving through the soil for better nutrient availability.2) Various slow-release soil amendments can be introduced when the bed is dug, instead of merely spread on top or side-dressed alongside the roots. This thorough mixing thereby brings these otherwise slow-to-sink-in materials directly into the root zone.3) this method almost invariably also raises the planting bed, resulting in all the same benefits as those listed under the Raised Beds page. But in this instance, the depth of that fine soil goes deeply down below grade, instead of merely resting on top of ground level.4) This approach creates the finest seedbed I've ever had the pleasure of working with, bar none. I've never approached this fine and uniform a seedbed consistency with any other manual or mechanical cultivation method. It's a pure joy to work with.5) When beds are repeatedly double-dug, they become easier to work over time. Reportedly, soils which have been double-dug for many years get to a point where they don't need to be dug anymore. We're not there yet.6) Last but not least, the double-digging method can produce dramatic increases in per-area crop yields. This is due to several factors:* The double-digging provides such easy root growth and aeration that plants can be grown much closer together without competition* As in other forms of raised bed gardening or farming, the plants are concentrated in one area instead of having aisles or walkways between each row.* The raised bed surface provides slightly more planting area than the flat grade surface would provide. While per-bed area may only be slightly larger than a flat bed, add up all the beds' additional area and it could add up to another bed worth of growing area.* Super-close plantings dramatically reduce weed competition for water, light and nutrients. All the resources in the environment are then available to the desired crops.Disadvantages:Despite the many advantages of this method, there are some potentially serious drawbacks:1) this method can be fairly strenuous to build. If you have 100sqft of planting bed to prep, that's a half-day of solid work but it's do-able. If you have 10,000 sqft of planting area to prep, you either need to bribe some friends, hire some help, or start digging your beds in autumn (which isn't a bad idea in and of itself). But you'd never be able to prep that much ground by yourself in springtime with shovel and fork, and still get anything else done.2) There are soil scientists, organic growers and traditional gardeners who would all protest the mixing of various soil layers. This method does not seem to create the dreaded rototiller hardpan below the dug area, but mixing those soil laters is a no-no according to these folks. I honestly don't know how big a problem that is. It may depend on the soils you're working with. We have never see problems with mixing those layers here but that could just be our own individual site characteristics. 3) If you have shallow soils, ie 24" deep or less between surface and bedrock, water table, clay or some other undesirable layer, you may be better served to build the soil up rather than dig all the way down to that barrier. Large stones and boulders at those lower depths can also create real headaches, either to move or to work around. Shallow tillage could avoid those obstacles entirely. When we first got started, we used double-digging almost excusively because we liked the seedbed so much. And we only had a relatively small area to prep. But as we have grown in size of tilled area, we have sadly waved adieu to this method. Since I generally work the ground by myself, it simply became too labor-intensive to prep all our beds in this manner. But I cherish the double-dug beds that we still use because they are always the first to warm up, the easiest to work and yield the happiest plants. I continue to revisit the idea of how to somehow double-dig more beds so as to enjoy those benefits. The only solution I've come up with is to work the ground in autumn as I have the time, and rotate through the beds such that I don't double-dig them all every year, but I try to double-dig each bed at least once every few years. That's not ideal, but it does provide at least a measure of all the method's many benefits without quite as steep a labor cost.UPDATE: The Broadfork for double-diggingWe have recently become aware of a tool called a broadfork that may allow us to continue using this planting method, without the fatigue we've experienced using shovel and fork. The broadfork is a tool which has been used in a variety of cultures around the world to deeply dig the soil in a manner roughly consistent with the double-digging method described above. The main advantage with the broadfork is that instead of using shoulder and back muscles to dig, lift and mix the soil, you actually stand on the tool and rock backwards, such that your entire relaxed body weight moves the soil instead. The fact that these tools came into existence repeatedly around the world tells me that our concerns about this planting method have been experienced, and answered, by others throughout history. Information like that tends to make me stop and take notice.Another concern we had was that such a tool would be even more prone to breakage, if a person's entire body weight was lifting the tines. Yet there may be an answer to that as well. A professional blacksmith by trade, and gardener by hobby, developed a broadfork with replaceable tines in case one of them broke during use. This particular model was also built for extensive use. The inventor of this particular broadfork used traditional designs, but made it robust enough, and comfortable enough, to use throughout the growing seasons, for many years. Such a robust, yet user-friendly tool, could make the difference for us as we explore ways to continue using this method even as our growing area increases. We'll keep you posted as we test this possibility. To read more about this broadfork, visit Gulland Forge Broadforks.