This document provides instructions for adding a windlass to a Grady 275 boat. It includes a list of supplies needed and step-by-step instructions with photos for grinding out the anchor rest area, installing the windlass and supports, running the wiring, and finishing touches. Safety disclaimers are provided noting that the reader takes full responsibility for their own work and that a professional installation is recommended.

1. Adding a Windlass to a Grady 275

2. Disclaimer- I assume zero liability for
your project.
• If you see mistakes in this document, send
them to me and I’ll update the document /
slideshare
• This document is just to notate what I did to
my boat.
• You should have a professional do the work.
• If you cut your boat wrong or install a windlass
incorrectly, you and only you are at fault.

3. Disclaimer
• This documentation is not complete, but its
better than what I could find.
• Some of these photos came from the Grady
support desk and a couple from the internet.

4. Partial List of Supplies
• 1 Grady Windlass kit.
• Small grinder with 3-4” round blade
• Small adjustable wrenches
• 2” Painters Tape
• Drill with various size bits. 1/8, ¼,
• Small 12” * 12” marine board. (optional, see my
reinforcement)
• 3M 4000 and 3M 5200 adhesives(1 tube each)
• 1 tube Grady silicone sealant.

5. Before Image – Original Hatch

6. Before Image – Hatch Open

7. Open Hatch, Remove Anchor
• Remove the Existing Anchor.
• Stuff a rag at the bottom of the anchor locker
to prevent nuts, bolts, etc. from going down in
hull. There is a small opening which seems to
catch everything you drop!

8. Apply painters tape to inside lip
• The tape should go from the top edge to
below the lip

9. Apply painters tape to inside lip

10. Apply painters tape to inside lip
• The tape should go from the top edge to
below the lip
• Draw a line around the
inside edge that is the
same as the lip. Both
my fingers are at the
same depth and the
outside finger is resting
in the ridge

11. Grind out the anchor rest. 1 of 5
• Prep:
– Notate, the position of the preinstalled windlass
power underneath so you don’t cut it.
– Make sure you understand the depth of your cut.
Don’t cut into the fiberglass on the backside of the
anchor rest.
– Lay the new Windlass mount and all parts into the
locker and trace your cuts.
– Measure 5 times, cut once.

12. Grind out the anchor rest. 2 of 5
• Prep:
– Notate the wiring. Don’t cut it!

13. Grind out the anchor rest. 3 of 5
• Trace new anchor mount
• Note you will need to cut out the lip where
the small circle is.

14. Grind out the anchor rest. 4 of 5
• Prep:
– This is the end result.

15. Grind out the anchor rest. 5 of 5
• Prep:
– Do your cut.
I also used
an electric
grinder.

16. Prep for new hatch and windlass
• Put all parts on hatch
and mark holes
• Note the metal brackets
that came with kit.
• Note cut out of lip
• Measure 3 times drill
once

17. Prep for new hatch
• I had to cut a washer to get it to fit on the
inside

18. Prep for new hatch
• I had to grind a little of the the inside area
where the metal brackets fit against the
anchor box

19. Note: Metal supports(1 of 2)
• Note bracket is ½ under windlass support and
½ exposed for hatch.
• Note bolt goes thru windlass support, into the
lip and then into the bracket.
• Drill carefully

20. Note: Metal supports 2 of 2

21. Aluminum Support

22. Install Windlass, Wiring is in
preinstalled in anchor locker.
• Install Anchor.
• 3M-4000 is a very strong adhesive, but 3M-
5200 is structural with twice the strength. I
used 5200 to adhere the windlass support to
the existing anchor locker and to adhere the
additional support underneath the roller, but
4000 on the roller bolts.

23. Wiring under helm
• Remove the foot rest. Remove 4 screws, save them, cut silicone
sealant.
• Don’t cut yourself! Sorry about the blood. I can’t do a project
without the giving the appearance of a murder scene. 

24. Wiring under helm
• I am not going to provide wiring diagram as
you can find that online, but here is a series
of photos:

25. Wiring under helm
Where to get
power from:
Near steering
wheel. The
black and red
wire coming
down is my
windlass raw
power.

26. Tape the helm under steering wheel
This is where Grady quality shows. I was expecting ¼ of fiberglass, not an inch!

27. Switch and Fuse

28. Switch and Fuse
I was surprised how tiny the switch leads
are. They are made for a small wire, not a
6-8 gauge wire.

29. Finished photos

30. Finished photos

31. Finished photos

32. Finished photos Backing Plate

33. Finished photos Backing Plate
(I reinforced mine)