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CHAPTER

FIFTEEN

THE
EDWARDIAN PERIOD
AND WORLD WAR I
1900 - 1920

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The first decade of the 20th Century was called the Edwardian Period
after King Edward VII of England (Reigned 1901 to 1910).

Alexandra, consort of Edward VII,
King of Great Britain

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

Edward VII, King - A Royal Automobilist

2
Edwardian styles with an emphasis on
an “S” shaped silhouette were ascendant
from c. 1900 – 1908.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

3
Undergarments supported this line.
•
•
•
•
•

Drawers
Camisoles or Combination Suits
Corsets
Corset Covers
Petticoats

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

4
Not only did corsets shape the
body, but some corset covers
with attached ruffles provided
the desired full-bosomed
effect.

Visit the “Twentieth Century Silhouette and Support” virtual exhibit at the Met

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

5
The Gibson Girl, created by
Charles Dana Gibson,
personified the ideal of
young feminine beauty.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

6
The white cotton or linen dress,
ornamented with tucks, ruffles,
and lace, resembled the frilly
lingerie of the period and was
called a “Lingerie Dress.”

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

7
Characteristic features of garments
included:
• A high, boned collar
• Sleeves often softly gathered to a
wristband, called bishop sleeves
• Narrow waist, with a decorative belt
• A full bosom

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

8
These same elements were evident
in the popular shirtwaists and
skirts of the period.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

9
By 1908 the line started to change.
New features included and
elevated waistline or Empire style
revival and the Hobble skirt 1908 –
1914.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

10
The shape of undergarments echoed the new line.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

11
X

Oriental influences were
evident in some clothing.

Click image to Enlarge

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

12
Fashion Designer Paul Poiret, credited with making narrow “Hobble”
skirts popular, was a major influence on fashion.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

13
Another important designer of the
period was Fortuny who was
know for pleated “Delphos”
dresses and handsome fabrics.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

14
Elements of fashionable lines included somewhat higher waistlines and
more slender skirts.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

15
By this time automobiles were coming into wider use, and men
and women dressed in “Dusters,” protective hats, and goggles as
they rode in open cars.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

16
World War I began in 1914 and lasted until 1918.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

17
Clothing became more practical.
Skirts shortened and widened,
clothing became less encumbering
as women took on more tasks
usually done by men.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

18
Both day time and evening dresses were shorter and fuller. Military
influences were evident.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

19
After the war styles changed again, taking on
more slender lines that served as a transition
into the next decade.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

20
Bathing dress continued to become less encumbering.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

21
Throughout this period women worked actively to gain the right to
vote. By 1920 women in the United States had been granted the vote.

Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume.
If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the Library of Congress American Memory Page to download a
compatible version for your system.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD
AND WORLD WAR I
1900 - 1920

22
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Changes in styles for men
were less frequent and less
dramatic than for women.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

23
Union or one-piece
undergarments or
drawers and
undershirts were
worn.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

24
For a man’s suit, the elements continued to be a shirt, worn with a
necktie, a vest, jacket, and trousers. Sack suite jackets predominated.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

25
Outdoor working men wore warm wool jackets and businessmen
wore tailored overcoats, such as the Chesterfield.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

26
As men engaged in active sports, they wore garments
appropriate for each sport.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

27
Clothing worn by soldiers during World War I made its way
into civilian life after the war.
• Sweaters
• Trench coats
• Wrist Watches

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

28
Small Boys were less likely to wear skirts after 1910, and instead wore
shorts, knickers, or trousers.

CHAPTER FIFT
EEN

29
Children’s clothing became more comfortable and less restrictive,
although elements similar to clothing of adults can be identified.

Children trying on new shoes on shoe day, 1905.
Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume.
If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the
McAllen children, March 1912.
Library of Congress American Memory Page to
download a compatible version for your system.

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD
AND WORLD WAR I
1900 - 1920

30
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
For Further Study
Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing
Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm
Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html
Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.”
http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk
Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of
garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com
Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org
Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at
www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp
Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html
Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html
Fashion Designers
http://www.fortuny.com/Home.html
http://www.designerhistory.com/historyofashion/poiret.html
http://www.gbacg.org/Articles/dressmakers.pdf
Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing
Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists.
Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.
CHAPTER FIFTEEN

THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD
AND WORLD WAR I
1900 - 1920

31
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Image Credits
Edward VII - Photo at Tree Planting, courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Alexandra, consort of Edward VII, King of Great Britain, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-USZ62-59506 (b&w film copy
neg.)].
Edward VII, King - A Royal Automobilist, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-USZ62-59503 (b&w film copy neg.)].
Edwardian Style Dress, from the authors’ slide collection.
Edwardian Drawers, http://www.knowlesville.com/matt/vintage_fashion/images/1915-drawers-1.jpg.
Edwardian Undergarments, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection #828275.
Edwardian Petticoat, http://www.vintagemartini.com/clothing/edwardian/pages/2387.html.
1905 White Cotton Sunburst Cutwork Camibloomers, http://www.antiquedress.com/item2153.htm.
Camille Clifford in Corset, http://www.geocities.com/ther_over/clifford.html.
WB Erect Form Corset Add, http://www.adclassix.com/images02erectformcorsets.jpg.
Ruffled Corset, from the authors’ collection.
Article on the Gibson Girl, from the author’s collection.
High School Graduate Picture 1904 Girl in Lingerie Dress, Photograph courtesy, Melissa Clark.
April 1905 Fashion Plate from The Delineator Magazine, April 1905, pg 557
Tea Gown c. 1905 - Front and Back, http://www.antique-fashion.com/2468a.jpg, courtesy Karen Augusta
Golfers Mrs. J. S. Sheehan, Grace Anthony, and Nellie Anthony standing in the shade of a structure on an unidentified golf course,
http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/s0509/s050954.jpg, SDN-050954, Chicago Daily News negatives collection, Chicago Historical
Society.
April 1905 Fashion Plate from The Delineator Magazine, April 1905, pg 573
Women in Empire Revival and Hobble Skirts, from the authors’ collection.
Royal Worcester Kidfitting Corsets advertisement, The Ladies' Field Magazine, November 23, 1912, pg. xv
The Original Brassiere - the "Bien Jolie" advertisement, The Ladies' Field Magazine, November 23, 1912, pg xv

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD
AND WORLD WAR I
1900 - 1920

32
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Image Credits
Lucile Avant Garde Vivid Voided Velvet Evening Gown, ttp://www.doylenewyork.com/pr/couture/04CT02/images/3393_Lucile.jpg
Advertisement for Silk Kimonos, New York Times, April 25, 1915, Library of Congress, Serials and Government Publications
Division,
Washington, D.C., http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.gdc/sgpnyt.19150425
Lassitude: dinner gown by Paul Poiret, French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), page 2, Dover Publications
Goodness, How Cold It Is, winter coat by Paul Poriet, French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), page 16, Dover
Publications
Fortuny Evening Gown "Delphos", http://www.mkg-hamburg.de/english/Inhalt/samml/tex2.htm
Multiple images from authors’ collections
Motorist, Mrs. F. W. Hedgeland, driving a car with two women in the backseat], http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/s0033/s003345.jpg,
SDN-003345, Chicago Daily News negatives collection, Chicago Historical Society."
Various soldier Images from Prudential Army-Navy Booklet, http://freepages.military.rootsweb.com/~worldwarone/WWI/PrudentialArmy-NavyBooklet/
Women's Suits of 1915, (French Fashion Magazine, L’Art de la Mode, 1915)
Women in World War I Era Dresses, from the authors’ collection.
Woman in Dress from Magazine Ad 1918, from the authors’ collection.
Crowd posed on and in front of the Steel Pier, Atlantic City, New Jersey, Library of Congress, [LC-USZ62-100234 (b&w film copy neg.)],
http://memory.loc.gov/service/pnp/cph/3c00000/3c00000/3c00200/3c00234v.jpg
Woman and child in bathing dress, from the authors’ collection.
Silent movie, Women suffragettes visit TR at Sagamore [1917] / Hearst-Pathe News, Library of Congress,
http://memory.loc.gov/mbrs/trmp/4168.mpg
Hart, Schaffner and Marx advertisement, from the authors’ collection.
Hanes Union Suit Ad 1918, Fairchild Archives.
Group D class, Illinois College of Photography, Effingham, Illinois, January 25, 1911, Library of Congress,
http://memory.loc.gov/award/ndfa/ndfahult/b400/b415r.jpg

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD
AND WORLD WAR I
1900 - 1920

33
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Image Credits
F. Lowden, in topcoat, holding hat, Library of Congress, [LC-DIG-ggbain-03636 (digital file from original neg.)],
http://memory.loc.gov/service/pnp/ggbain/03600/03636r.jpg
Yale Football Team 1908, Library of Congress
Children trying on new shoes on shoe day, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0028/n002805.jpg
McAllen children, March 1912, http://runyon.lib.utexas.edu/n2r?urn:utlol:runyon.05042.jpg,
The Center for American History and General Libraries, University of Texas at Austin Source collection, Robert Runyon Photograph Collection"
Silent movie, TR calls on neighbors at Christmas, 1917 / [Production company unknown], Library of Congress,
http://memory.loc.gov/mbrs/trmp/4101.mpg

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD
AND WORLD WAR I
1900 - 1920

34
© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

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Edwardian & WWI Chapter 15

  • 1. CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 Check for updates on the web now! Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page.
  • 2. The first decade of the 20th Century was called the Edwardian Period after King Edward VII of England (Reigned 1901 to 1910). Alexandra, consort of Edward VII, King of Great Britain CHAPTER FIFT EEN Edward VII, King - A Royal Automobilist 2
  • 3. Edwardian styles with an emphasis on an “S” shaped silhouette were ascendant from c. 1900 – 1908. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 3
  • 4. Undergarments supported this line. • • • • • Drawers Camisoles or Combination Suits Corsets Corset Covers Petticoats CHAPTER FIFT EEN 4
  • 5. Not only did corsets shape the body, but some corset covers with attached ruffles provided the desired full-bosomed effect. Visit the “Twentieth Century Silhouette and Support” virtual exhibit at the Met CHAPTER FIFT EEN 5
  • 6. The Gibson Girl, created by Charles Dana Gibson, personified the ideal of young feminine beauty. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 6
  • 7. The white cotton or linen dress, ornamented with tucks, ruffles, and lace, resembled the frilly lingerie of the period and was called a “Lingerie Dress.” CHAPTER FIFT EEN 7
  • 8. Characteristic features of garments included: • A high, boned collar • Sleeves often softly gathered to a wristband, called bishop sleeves • Narrow waist, with a decorative belt • A full bosom CHAPTER FIFT EEN 8
  • 9. These same elements were evident in the popular shirtwaists and skirts of the period. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 9
  • 10. By 1908 the line started to change. New features included and elevated waistline or Empire style revival and the Hobble skirt 1908 – 1914. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 10
  • 11. The shape of undergarments echoed the new line. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 11
  • 12. X Oriental influences were evident in some clothing. Click image to Enlarge CHAPTER FIFT EEN 12
  • 13. Fashion Designer Paul Poiret, credited with making narrow “Hobble” skirts popular, was a major influence on fashion. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 13
  • 14. Another important designer of the period was Fortuny who was know for pleated “Delphos” dresses and handsome fabrics. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 14
  • 15. Elements of fashionable lines included somewhat higher waistlines and more slender skirts. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 15
  • 16. By this time automobiles were coming into wider use, and men and women dressed in “Dusters,” protective hats, and goggles as they rode in open cars. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 16
  • 17. World War I began in 1914 and lasted until 1918. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 17
  • 18. Clothing became more practical. Skirts shortened and widened, clothing became less encumbering as women took on more tasks usually done by men. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 18
  • 19. Both day time and evening dresses were shorter and fuller. Military influences were evident. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 19
  • 20. After the war styles changed again, taking on more slender lines that served as a transition into the next decade. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 20
  • 21. Bathing dress continued to become less encumbering. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 21
  • 22. Throughout this period women worked actively to gain the right to vote. By 1920 women in the United States had been granted the vote. Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume. If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the Library of Congress American Memory Page to download a compatible version for your system. CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 22 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 23. Changes in styles for men were less frequent and less dramatic than for women. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 23
  • 24. Union or one-piece undergarments or drawers and undershirts were worn. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 24
  • 25. For a man’s suit, the elements continued to be a shirt, worn with a necktie, a vest, jacket, and trousers. Sack suite jackets predominated. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 25
  • 26. Outdoor working men wore warm wool jackets and businessmen wore tailored overcoats, such as the Chesterfield. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 26
  • 27. As men engaged in active sports, they wore garments appropriate for each sport. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 27
  • 28. Clothing worn by soldiers during World War I made its way into civilian life after the war. • Sweaters • Trench coats • Wrist Watches CHAPTER FIFT EEN 28
  • 29. Small Boys were less likely to wear skirts after 1910, and instead wore shorts, knickers, or trousers. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 29
  • 30. Children’s clothing became more comfortable and less restrictive, although elements similar to clothing of adults can be identified. Children trying on new shoes on shoe day, 1905. Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume. If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the McAllen children, March 1912. Library of Congress American Memory Page to download a compatible version for your system. CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 30 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 31. For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html Fashion Designers http://www.fortuny.com/Home.html http://www.designerhistory.com/historyofashion/poiret.html http://www.gbacg.org/Articles/dressmakers.pdf Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 31 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 32. Image Credits Edward VII - Photo at Tree Planting, courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Alexandra, consort of Edward VII, King of Great Britain, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-USZ62-59506 (b&w film copy neg.)]. Edward VII, King - A Royal Automobilist, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-USZ62-59503 (b&w film copy neg.)]. Edwardian Style Dress, from the authors’ slide collection. Edwardian Drawers, http://www.knowlesville.com/matt/vintage_fashion/images/1915-drawers-1.jpg. Edwardian Undergarments, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection #828275. Edwardian Petticoat, http://www.vintagemartini.com/clothing/edwardian/pages/2387.html. 1905 White Cotton Sunburst Cutwork Camibloomers, http://www.antiquedress.com/item2153.htm. Camille Clifford in Corset, http://www.geocities.com/ther_over/clifford.html. WB Erect Form Corset Add, http://www.adclassix.com/images02erectformcorsets.jpg. Ruffled Corset, from the authors’ collection. Article on the Gibson Girl, from the author’s collection. High School Graduate Picture 1904 Girl in Lingerie Dress, Photograph courtesy, Melissa Clark. April 1905 Fashion Plate from The Delineator Magazine, April 1905, pg 557 Tea Gown c. 1905 - Front and Back, http://www.antique-fashion.com/2468a.jpg, courtesy Karen Augusta Golfers Mrs. J. S. Sheehan, Grace Anthony, and Nellie Anthony standing in the shade of a structure on an unidentified golf course, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/s0509/s050954.jpg, SDN-050954, Chicago Daily News negatives collection, Chicago Historical Society. April 1905 Fashion Plate from The Delineator Magazine, April 1905, pg 573 Women in Empire Revival and Hobble Skirts, from the authors’ collection. Royal Worcester Kidfitting Corsets advertisement, The Ladies' Field Magazine, November 23, 1912, pg. xv The Original Brassiere - the "Bien Jolie" advertisement, The Ladies' Field Magazine, November 23, 1912, pg xv CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 32 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 33. Image Credits Lucile Avant Garde Vivid Voided Velvet Evening Gown, ttp://www.doylenewyork.com/pr/couture/04CT02/images/3393_Lucile.jpg Advertisement for Silk Kimonos, New York Times, April 25, 1915, Library of Congress, Serials and Government Publications Division, Washington, D.C., http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.gdc/sgpnyt.19150425 Lassitude: dinner gown by Paul Poiret, French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), page 2, Dover Publications Goodness, How Cold It Is, winter coat by Paul Poriet, French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), page 16, Dover Publications Fortuny Evening Gown "Delphos", http://www.mkg-hamburg.de/english/Inhalt/samml/tex2.htm Multiple images from authors’ collections Motorist, Mrs. F. W. Hedgeland, driving a car with two women in the backseat], http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/s0033/s003345.jpg, SDN-003345, Chicago Daily News negatives collection, Chicago Historical Society." Various soldier Images from Prudential Army-Navy Booklet, http://freepages.military.rootsweb.com/~worldwarone/WWI/PrudentialArmy-NavyBooklet/ Women's Suits of 1915, (French Fashion Magazine, L’Art de la Mode, 1915) Women in World War I Era Dresses, from the authors’ collection. Woman in Dress from Magazine Ad 1918, from the authors’ collection. Crowd posed on and in front of the Steel Pier, Atlantic City, New Jersey, Library of Congress, [LC-USZ62-100234 (b&w film copy neg.)], http://memory.loc.gov/service/pnp/cph/3c00000/3c00000/3c00200/3c00234v.jpg Woman and child in bathing dress, from the authors’ collection. Silent movie, Women suffragettes visit TR at Sagamore [1917] / Hearst-Pathe News, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/mbrs/trmp/4168.mpg Hart, Schaffner and Marx advertisement, from the authors’ collection. Hanes Union Suit Ad 1918, Fairchild Archives. Group D class, Illinois College of Photography, Effingham, Illinois, January 25, 1911, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/award/ndfa/ndfahult/b400/b415r.jpg CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 33 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 34. Image Credits F. Lowden, in topcoat, holding hat, Library of Congress, [LC-DIG-ggbain-03636 (digital file from original neg.)], http://memory.loc.gov/service/pnp/ggbain/03600/03636r.jpg Yale Football Team 1908, Library of Congress Children trying on new shoes on shoe day, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0028/n002805.jpg McAllen children, March 1912, http://runyon.lib.utexas.edu/n2r?urn:utlol:runyon.05042.jpg, The Center for American History and General Libraries, University of Texas at Austin Source collection, Robert Runyon Photograph Collection" Silent movie, TR calls on neighbors at Christmas, 1917 / [Production company unknown], Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/mbrs/trmp/4101.mpg CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 34 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.