Fashion history,student of Dezyne E'cole College ,fashion design department ,www.dezyneecole.com. this is a portfolio of final year work of her in fashion Design

1. FASHION
TIMELINE
Clothes that travel to us…….

2. Project Report
On
Fashion Timeline
At
Dezyne E’cole College
Ajmer
Submitted to
Dezyne E’cole College
Towards the
Partial fulfillment
Of
NSQL Level 6
By
Harsha Parihar
106/10, civil line, Ajmer
Ph. 0145-2624679, 9829024839
www.dezyneecole.com
2015-2017

3. Acknowledgement
I would like to convey my gratefulness to Dezyne E’cole college and for the guidance, study skill and
knowledge which I learn .
I am thankful to my mentors who give me this opportunity of making the project and help me to show my
work ability through this project.
Harsha Parihar
2nd Year Fashion Design Diploma
Conforming to NSQF Level 6 of NSDC

4. Dezyne E’cole College
Civil Lines, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com
This project report of Miss Harsha Parihar student of 2nd Year Advance Diploma in Fashion Design, confirming to
NSQF Level 6 of NSDC, has been checked and graded as
_____________________________________________________________
Thanking You
Harsha Parihar
Principal
(seal & signature)

5. TIMELINE
(History of clothing)
Pre History
(600CE)
Medieval Romance Trade
(600-1449)
Renaissance Splendours
(1450-1624)
Baroque and Rococo
(1625-1789)
From Revolution to Frivolity
(1790-1900)
La Bella Epoque and Jazz Age
(1901-1928)
From Glamour to Utility
(1929-1946)
Optimism and Youth
(1947-1963)
Swinging Sixties to Glam Rock
(1964-1979)
The Designer Decades
(1980 onwards)

6. Prehistory 600CE
Egypt
Minonian Culture
Classical Greece
Romance
Byzantine Style
600-1449
Medival Romance
and trade
Trailing Elegance
The East in the West
1450-1625
Renaissance -Splendour
Eligabeth 1
Female Geometry
Drape To Shape
1625-1789
Baroque and Rococo
Men in Lace
Robes Embroidered
Mantua’s and petticoat
Masquerade Softer
Silhoutte
1790-1900
From Revolution to
Frivolity
Empire line
Neo classical
Crinolines
Evening hourglass
Bustles
Soprtwear Developed
1901-1928
La Bella Epoque Jazz age
Suit for City
Gentlemen
Jazz Age
Coco Chanel
Paul Poiret
Roaring Twenties
1947-1963
Optimism and youth
The new Look
Christian Dior
Birth of a Teenager
Post War perfection
1964-1979
Swinging Sixties to
Glam Rock
Mini Magic/ skirt
Yves Saint Laurents
Women Wear Trouser
Biba
Stage Dance Party
1980 Onwards
The designers Decades
Vivenne Westwood
Alexander Mcqueen
Boho Chic and Vintage
Jeal Paul Gaultier
1929-1946
From Glamour to
utility
Shimmering Gowns
Schiaparelli
America Ready to
Wear

7. PRE HISTORY
STONE AGE the people during this time period were hunter are food gatherers wore hides of animal and leaves to
protect themselves. The stone age is divided into Paleolithic age (old stone age), Mesolithic age (middle age), Neolithic
(new stone age).
They learned about agriculture and animal husbandry. Birth of civilization Indus valley civilization Egyptian civilization and
Mesopotamian civilization . The Ancient world is the historical events in time of the painting, sculpture, artefacts and
scraps of clothing and Jewellery all provide clues as to how people live and dresses
600CE

8. EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION
Prehistory 600CE
• Fabric
• Clothing
• Style lines
• Makeup
All the clothing worn by the Ancient Egyptians was of linen Linen is light, strong and flexible which made it ideal for the
life in the warm climate. The material quality of garments itself could distinguish the classes, the upper class used finer
quality linen where as cheaper thicker linen used within the lower class.
Men wore draped fabric a schenti cloth wrapped around the hip which hung in folds in front till knee level.
Female servant simple sheath dress.
Clothing in New kingdom
Men wore schenti an elaborated pleats garment, jewelry, wig and scented cone.
Women wore kalasiris with detachable sleeves, jewelry, pleated wig, hair ornaments and scented cone.
Beaded dress: rectangular silhouettes, fitted to body, created with cylindrical beads of red, green blue etc.

9. Styling of Egyptian
They wore typical pleated garment as well as the cone of perfumed fat on
top of perfumed fat on top of her wig that melts slowly to emit its
precious odors
Headgear and Wigs
Hairstyle was a huge part of Ancient Egyptian Heads were shaven as both
as a sign of nobility Wigs were used by both sexes of the upper and lower
class.
Make Up
Khol eyelinear made of galenore. Eye shadow made of malachite which is
red and green in colour. Use of Hena for colouring their hair.
Jewellery
Jewellery was worn from top to toe by wealthy Egyptian men and
women. Gold came from nubia and semi precious stone includes lapis
lazuli, green and red jasper, amethyst, cornelian, turquoise, and quartz.
Glass were used to imitate precious stones. Steatite, a soft stone, was
carved into small objects like pendants and scarabs.

12. MINONIAN CULTURE
Female Minoan dress were long and low-necked with short sleeves
and layered, flounced skirts the robes were open to the navel, they
were so low that the bodice was open almost all the way to waist.
Minoan men wore loin clothing and kilts. Men had long hair flowing
to the shoulders; however several types of headgear were usual,
types of bonnets and turbans, probably of skin.

13. ROMAN CIVILIZATION
Dress was prescribed in Roman society accounting to the rank. Status determined whether the toga could be worn by
Roman citizens whether it might be coloured, the emperor wear purple, but priests, senators, and equestrians might
wear a stripe of purple on their robes.
Stola An outer garment which has a long pleated dress similar to the Greek chiton. A women’s basic garment was the
stola, which hung in pleats from the shoulders, where it fastened with brooches or clasps called fibulal and held in under
the bust and around the waist with a belt. Over this stola women wore a palla for cover the head.
Priest they wore toga which was complete draped around the body.
Toga a one piece woolen around that shoulder wrapped around the body, wrapped in different ways.
Colours (dyes):-
Madder(red), indigo(blue), saffron(yellow) dyes are available and clothes were sometimes embroidered.
Footwear (caliga) leather sandals or boots protect the feet.
Roman hairstyle:-
Men generally kept their hair short and neat and were clean shaven. Wealthy women had slaves to help them using
ointment and calamistrum (curling iron)

16. Armour the warfare dress code scale lamellar, mail plate, leather and fabric and brigandine armours.

17. BYZANTINE STYLE
After the fall of Rome in 476 CE, Constantinople became the center of
the Byzantine style. A fusion of Greek, roman middle east and
oriental styles, clothes indicated social status.
Costume tunic, cloak, flowing gowns embroidered and embellished
with jewels pearls ( dresses of elite classes)
Fabrics imported silk, wool and linen. Poor working people wore plain
woolen tunic and a long cloak on top.
Colours Ancient people use dyes and pigment to dye their clothes,
skin or jewellery.
Purple colour was most expensive colour used by elite classes.
Accessories
Heavy fibula head gear, neckpieces rings, crowns.
Shoes embroidered and encrusted with pearls.

19. GREEK CIVILIZATION
Ancient Greece, which is in the same place as modern-day Greece, was and is the most southern country of the Balkan
Peninsula.
Clothing worn in Ancient Greece was loose and flowing and hardly were the garments ever sewn together. The fabric used
linen or wool women also wore a veil with their clothing whenever they stepped out of the house an indigo veil and dark
colour veil.

20. CHITON
Ancient Greece men and women wore chiton. Chiton a tunic
made of two rectangular of cloth joined on the shoulder and
sides. The chiton could be worn with a himation or it could be
worn without it as well. A belt was also worn with the chiton,
which was called the zoster.
The Doric chiton consisted of two pieces of cloth, which were
rectangular in shape, and was worn long and over fold was
worn longer on the Doric chiton.

21. HIMATION
The himation is an important garment of ancient Greek fashion
This was generally made from a rectangular piece of wool with the use of lighter fabrics, the himation was worn at any
time of the day
The himation was loose and flowing, thus, it can be termed as a modern cloak—it was also used as a form of drapery to
be worn over the chiton
The himation can be compared to the Roman toga, the only difference being that the himation has less volume in the
fabric
When worn solo, the himation was known as the a chiton.
PEPLOS
Women often wore the peplos a piece of woollen material The peplos consisted of a tubular shaped cloth—this was
folded from the inside out
The top area of the tube usually gathered at the waist and the bottom area extended till the ankles
The cloth on the upper area was brought underneath the left arm—this was secured with the help of tapes or pins on the
right shoulder. The top layer of the cloth, which draped the waist often gave the appearance of two pieces of cloth.
When women wore the peplos, the arms were generally left bare and the fabric hung at the front area.

22. The chlamys was made from a seamless rectangle of woollen material
worn by men as a cloak. The it was about the size of a blanket, usually
bordered. The chlamys was typical Greek military attire as worn by
soldiers, it could be wrapped around the arm and used as a light shield in
combat.
CHLAMYS

23. MEDIEVAL TRADE AND ROMANCE
600 - 1449
Men and women wore a loose tunic based on rectangles sewn together in different style and caught with belts. They
wore Mantles draped over tunic with status enhancing fur lining.
Age of migrations- 600- 1100
Courtly love and crusades- 1100- 1200
Priests and the people- 1100- 1450
The east in the west- 800- 1450
Social Statement(1200-1300)
AGE OF MIGRATION (600-1100)
After western roman empire collapsed, people started migrating to new areas, people needed warm, water, repelting
clothes in the cold climate, so wool was the main cloth used. Men and women wore loose tunics, based on rectangular
sewn together in different style and taught with belt. Mantle were draped over tunics and had status enhancing. Linen
shirts were wore as undergarment beneath tunic.

24. COURTLY LOVE CRUSADES 1100-1200
Fashion became increasingly flam boy in the 12th century romances and chivalry fashion clothing became more fitted
seductively figure hugging silk gowns, revealed embroidered chemise beneath the laced sides. Ordinary women wore
fitted tunic, more closely over waist arms and hips. Garment were still based on rectangular cuts, but with lacing.
Garments were still based on rectangular and triangular fabrics cut, but with lacing to crush straight shapes against the
curved figure
Accessories were long, pointed, Pauline shoes and long hair with trailing hems.
PRIESTS AND THE PEOPLE
People wore simple clothes which allowed them to do their work. Their clothes were shorter plain and coarse often home
produced fabric. Garment were made such as aprons to carry tools we see the tippet sleeves pleated, leather purse
attached with belt use of buttons on dress frayed hems (dagging) liripipe wide brimmed hats. Church people used best
quality clothes with finest embroidery and weaving to dress cardinals Bishops.
Wide brimmed hat, tippet sleeves, pleated leather purse from belt, use of buttoned tunics, frayed hems.

25. THE EAST IN THE WEST (800- 1450)
In medieval times the Mediterranean basin was the most advanced center
in he world Of learning, Technology and trade . Expensive textiles came
from china along the ancient Silk Road, the great trade route running
through
Central Asia. Wimple piece of cloth worn over the head and around the
face and neck . A wimple would be worn under a veil called a kerchief.
Henin Hat conical hat with long veil. Men’s hat sugar loaf hat was a tallish
conical hat resemble an inverted flower pot. Surcoat and mantles are in
fashion during this time.

27. SOCIAL STATEMENT (1200-1300)
Clothing become voluminous in the 13th century and men’s and women’s
garments followed the same changes in shape. Tunic sleeves had tight
lower arms, but more fabrics around the armhole, and the Surcoat
(sleeveless overtunic) became a wardrobe stable. Though cuts were
simple and elegantly draped, headwear became more complex. Women
wore hairnets, or Wimples ( chin bands) and circlets around the head and
men wore small, round caps. The biggest development of the 14th
century was the move from flat, draped garments the beginning of
tailoring chests looked larger both sexes and made the use of padding
colors contrast and party colors came into fashion.
Neckline became lower, trailing hemlines, pouline shoes. Tight sleeves,
hoods, belts, viels , gloves were more worn, houppelande trails on
ground. The silhouette was long with high waist the fashion to walk
with belly slightly protuding. Dagged edges, higher collar, use of peplum.

28. TRAILING ELEGANCE
Women’s gown became high waist with a low cut v neck that showed a
piece of contrasting fabric underneath. The V neck would be folded back
to reveal an attractive lining long fitted sleeves developed cuffs in what
was called Burundian fashion Sleeves widened toward a bell shape. The
longer sleeve of the under tunic elongated with such exaggeration that
the hems of the bottom part of the sleeve sometimes reached the
ground. The over tunic men wore evolved into a doublet or a short
skirted tunic. Slashings in the sleeves showed the under tunic which could
be pulled through to create puffs of contrasting fabric and color.
Houppelande - The houppelande of 1380 was a beautiful, full length robe
like garment featuring a high collar and wide sleeves. The houppelande
would often feature fur trim.
Men wore many types of hats and head gear. The sugar loaf hat, conical
hat

29. RENAISSANCE SPLENDOUR
1450 - 1624
This was the period when fashion finally moved from draped clothing
to fitted garments and the art of tailoring came into its own. Clothing
now consisted of a greater number of parts including detachable
sleeves jerkins and breeches of different lengths. The masculine form
was enhanced by the latest clothing, with its wide shoulders,
codpieces strong legs and bellies.
The fashion split there were marked regional difference in women’s
dress. The medieval standards one piece tunic moved towards broad
spectrum of fashion in cut and construction. Hanging sleeves French
gowns sleeves, ruffs were used on the sleeves and on neck.
Head dresses often emphasized a women’s high smooth forehead .
Many women bleached their hair to a fashionable blonde. Cylindrical
hats of different lengths were stylish in France, England and low
countries.

32. FROM DRAPED TO SHAPE
Soft draped lines began to disappear as the century went on dress had
two main parts bodice and skirt and sleeves were often separate too. Full
skirts widened with gathered and pleated waistline outer skirts were
opened up in front to reveal a petticoat or forepart underneath.

33. ELEGANT FORMALITY
As the century progressed so the gradual stiffening of women’s dress continued. Linear bands and braids followed the
clothing’s sharp lines and emphasized its control of body shape. Necklines were either at bust level or up to the chin . The
silhouette stayed triangular with narrow waists endings in sharp points and full skirts. The tops of sleeves of women’s
dresses started be styled into puffs, tabs and rolls. Male and female fashions followed similar trends of adornments, cut
and colour.

34. FEMALE GEOMETRY
Fashion history’s most geometric period created unnatural. Silhouettes
made from straight lines, triangles and circles. huge ruffs isolated head
from body, or open collars revealed décolletages cut immodestly low.
Farthingale made women widest and squarest it had shortened hems to
make feet visible

36. BAROQUE AND ROCOCO
1625 - 1789
Buckles and straps evolved during this time the Farthingales petticoats
vanished and people move toward softer silhouettes a stiffing was done
in the dress with the use of buckram. The bond bodice developed which
was as corsets and this was used for the upper dress.
During this time the women’s bodice had a new beginning that was was
the development of mantuas. Mantuas was a garment that was open
from a front and gradually shape change with the use of hooped petticoat
and underskirts of canvas or linen with rings made of whale bone or cane.

37. FROM REVOLUTION TO FRIVOLITY
1790 - 1900
Neo classicism 1790-1800
Fashion of 18th century reflected a time of upheaval. It brought more
informal dress influenced by Revolutionary fervor in France.
Wrapping gown, silk and painted chintz cottons gave may to printed
cottons and plain cotton chemise dress.
High waist simple dress laced corsets were worn over on top.
DELIGHTING IN THE DETAILS 1820- 1830
Piping of the dress
Splendour Jackets and beautiful hats appears. Wide puffed sleeve
emphasis the narrow waist low décolletage the bottom shape neck.
Off shoulder dress appeared.

39. INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION
Eli Whitney invented the cotton ginning machine in 1793 which was
patented by 1807.
1804 we had jacquard loom after the name of Joseph Jacquard. Issac
singer in 1851 brought the sewing machine and the principle of
assembly line development which developed which led to the mass
production of classes.
Crigot sleeve had expanded to its fullest
1856-1876
Crinolines appeared large frame were abandoned after 1867, skirts
trailed and were gathered internally with ties forming the soft
bustle.
Soft bustles and fishtails, bodice necklines were square with exposed
decollate for evening.
Dresses had three quarter sleeve with lace cuffs and wore sleeveless
for evening wear.
1830-1837

40. 1876-1888 princess line dress came in fashion fishtrail trains were
rejected and extremely tight steel boned corsets came in the year 1883-
87 which look like chicken tail.
1890-1899 during this time India was ceded to Britain by the trite of Paris
in 1898
During this time the cotton was the most sought after because of
superior quality and durability and the British company profited by taking
the raw cotton from India from making fabrics.
In London, during the same time period the women had high ruffs and
wasp waists.
Women’s wear of the Victorian era was characterized by high collars, tiny
wasp waist were emphasized by the most enormous sleeves and pyramid
skirts with pleats. This ruffs corset, padded sleeves (leg-o-mutton
sleeves) and cone shape skirts and bifercated skits recalled Elizabethan
“fin- de-siecle” styling. Ball dresses for evening party were popular .

41. LA BELLA EPOQUE AND JAZZ AGE
This time period focused on simplification of the dress. The idea was “
less is more”.
After the war the popularity of elaborated hair piece and dresses were
reduced to a replace by energetic boyish look “The Flapper”. Always on
the move- either dancing or racing around in the automobile the new
style which represent the youth fashion and fun.
1901-1928

43. PAUL POIRET THE FIRST DESIGNER
Poiret was a true Parisian, born in 1879.
Poiret always designed on live models, working from the shoulders,
initially creating a series of surprisingly plain gowns that skimmed the
outlines of the figure Whose tubular dresses liberate women from
corset, was first Paris couturier of this century to become trendsetter.
Poiret went on to design for two star actresses of the period, Gabrielle
Réjane and Sarah Bernhardt, The idolized actress Gabrielle Réjane
became Poiret’s first customer. The Réjane with her white donkeys, a
present from the King of Portugal. She was like a magnet for others.

45. FROM GLAMOUR TO UTILITY
This time period 1929-1946 use to have the designer Elsa Schiaparelli entering and during this time very simple dress
coats entered because this was the time of great depression. The main feature that we see here is the dresses became
longer at the hemlines to the floor length. And the roaring twenties came to a hawlt.

47. ELSA SCHIAPARELLI
1890 -1973
Elsa Schiaparelli an Italian designer born on 10 September 1890.
Elsa Schiaparelli inscribed the word “for sport” on the door of her first
fashion salon in Paris. She earned her placed in the history of fashion
not for her sport wear, but for the most flamboyant creation of all
time. Elsa’s was the first designer who usually use haberdashery, stove
pipe collar, braids, pleats padding and yoke on her dresses.

48. FASHION DESIGNER ELSA SCHIAPARELLI COLLECTION

49. COCO CHANEL
Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel born on 19 august 1883 was a French
fashion Designer and businesswomen. In 1918, Chanel purchased the
entire building at 31 rue Combon, which was situated one of the most
fashionable district of Paris. In 1921 she opened a fashion boutique
featuring clothing hats accessories later. She introduced Boyish look for
women and cloche hat famous by Coco Chanel.

51. MADELEINE VIONNET
Madeleine Vionnet French fashion designer born 22 on June 1876.
Madeline Vionnet invented the bias cut and was famous for her
incomparable skill in creating elegantly draped designs. It must have
been her love of geometry that enabled madeleine Vionnet to create
such sophisticated design from simple basic squares and triangles.
Vionnet approached the female body like a doctor, intent on preserving
its natural beauty with surgeon like precision, she began to experiment
with the artful use of seam lines that allowed the fabric to follow the
curves of a women’s figure. In 1920 wanted fringes on their dresses,
Vionnet was the only designer who did not use ready made lengths of
fringe trimming. Instead each fringe thread was individually attached to
the garment an d knotted one strand at a time in order to preserve the
fabric’s elasticity. to quote Madeleine Vionnet” when a women smiles
her dress should smile with her”.

53. OPTIMISM AND YOUTH
1947-1963
Fashion Designer Mariano Fortuny Fashion Designer Cristobal Balenciaga Fashion Designer Christian Dior

54. CHRISTIAN DIOR FRENCH DESIGNER
First collection COROLLE COLLECTION 1947 Christian Dior inspired with
ROSE and created the New Look with longer, fuller skirts, smooth,
rounded, sloping shoulders and tiny fitted waist. All his designs were
resembled flowers petals and loops of figure 8.he used bones, bustier
style bodice hip padding in his designs, warp waist corset and petticoats
made his dress flare out from waist giving a curvaceous look.
EFFECT OF WORLD WAR-II ON FASHION
This time period had practically no fabric to work with, no trimmings, no
press coverage and little food. Lack of imports from France became a
boon to America as they got a time to develop their style.
Movie star Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline wife of President.

57. Pierre Cardin is an Italian born French Fashion Designer Cardin’s talent
did not go unnoticed for long and in 1954 his bubble dress became an
international success. In the 1960s, inspired by scientific progress, Cardin
establishing himself as the first couturier to work with synthetic materials.
His designs during this period were referred to as the “Space Age” style
and their often avant-garde forms helped to establish his distinctive voice.
In 1977, 1979 and 1982, Cardin was awarded the highest honor in Haute
Couture when he was awarded the Golden Thimble.
PIERRE CARDIN

60. MARIANO FORTUNY
He was as much artist and inventor as designer over three decades he
registered more than twenty inventions in Paris. His great contribution to
fashion, summed up in one dress, the Delphos, was to free the body from
the restrictions of fashion able 19th century dress. Created as early
as1907, the Delphos was a long, simply cut, pleated silk dress that hung
loosely from the shoulders and could be scrunched up into ball for
travelling. In an age when most women were tightly corseted and fitted, it
represented a liberation.

61. SWINGING SIXTIES TO GLAM ROCK
1964 - 1979

62. YVES SAINT LAURRENT
1958 - 1988
Yves saint Laurent born on 1august 1936 was a French fashion designer
and is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designer in
twentieth century. YSL has a famous collection called Mondrian
collection. Saint Laurent’s evening wear reveled in the retro and ethnic
looks so beloved of hippies-he merely made them acceptable to the
world of couture. During the 1960s,saint Laurent introduced various
new elements into women’s fashion which are regarded as
indispensables features of a woman’s wardrobe : paint suits, safari
jackets, transparent garment and his female version of the tuxedo.
Anti fashion of the late 1960s and 1970s ethnic look had folk costumes
from every country. Designer used Chinese and African dashiki in their
hippes look(bohemian fashion)
Reverse fashion adoption was taken into fashion by YSL (mod looks).

64. THE DESIGNER DECADES
1980 onwards
Fashion Designer Vivienne Westwood
Fashion Designer Alexander Mcqueen
Fashion Designer Jean Paul Gaultier
Japanese Fashion Designer
Rei Kawakububo
Fashion Designer
Yohji Yamamoto
Fashion Designer
Issey Miyake

65. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD COLLECTION

66. JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COLLECTION

67. JAPANESE FASHION DESIGNER
REI KAWAKUBO
Rei Kawakubo is famous for many things. There’s her love of
deconstructed tailoring. The Rei-ism on everyone’s mind is her
penchant for big, huge, enormous, essentially planetary garments.
The designer has always had a love for volume. It was coincidence
that her own label, launched in japan in 1969, was called comme des
garcons. “Lumps and Bumps” show, was one that garnered Kawakubo
international acclaim but the outsize circles, rectangles, and cascading
ruffles on the Comme des Garçons runways have transcended simple
ideas of volume and shape and turned garments into truly awesome
artistic expressions

68. Japanese Fashion Designer Rei Kawakububo Collection

69. Japanese Fashion Designer Rei Kawakububo Collection

70. THANK YOUHarsha Parihar 2nd Year Advance Diploma in Fashion Design
Conforming to NSQF Level 6 Validated by NSDC and Ministry
of Skill Development
Dezyne E’cole College