The document provides details about traditional costumes and textiles from the Indian states of Sikkim and Manipur. It describes the distinctive costumes of the main ethnic groups in Sikkim, including the Lepchas, Bhutias, and Nepalis. For Manipur, it outlines the traditional attire for men and women, and costumes specific to festivals. It also discusses textile production processes, use of natural dyes, symbolic meanings of colors, and design techniques like applique and embroidery commonly seen in the textiles of Manipur.

1. ASSIGNMENT OF HISTORY OF
DESIGN & FASHION

2. COSTUMES OF SIKKIM & MANIPUR

3. COSTUMES OF SIKKIM……
Costumes of Sikkim
reflects the social &
cultural lifestyle of the
major communities
namely Lepchas,
Bhutias & Nepalis. The
original inhabitants of
Sikkim, the Lepchas,
flaunt themselves in
costumes, furnished
with resplendent colors.

4. THE LEPCHA…
 The traditional
costume of the Lepcha
male is Thakra-Dum
which involves a white
pajama, stretching only
to the calves,
yenthatse, a lepcha
shirt and Shambo, the
cap. The texture of
the male dress is
rough & long lasting

5.  The hereditary costume
of Lepcha women is
Dumvum or Dumdyam, a
kind of smooth and cosy
ankle-long dress, draped
like a saree, Tago a
loose-fitting comfortable
blouse, Nyamrek, a belt
and Taro, a cap. The
magnificent ornaments
exhibited by the Lepcha
women, entail, earrings,
called Namchok, Lyak a
necklace, Gyar, a
bracelet, and so on.

6. THE BHUTIAS….
The Bhutia
community, hailing
from the adjacent
country of Tibet,
has over years
become rooted in
the culture and
social norms of
Sikkim.

7.  Bhutia males comprises Kho,
also known as Bakhu. It is a
loose mantle which is tied at the
neck on one side, and at the
waist region with a silk or cotton
belt. Added to this basic
garment, a Bhutia man dons Jya
Jya, a waist coat, the shirt,
called, Yenthatse, shirt, Kera, a
cloth-belt and Shambo, the cap.
 A Bhutia woman`s general
costume consists of Kho or
Bakhu, Hanju, a silky full-sleeve
loose blouse, Kushen, a jacket,
a different pattern of the cap,
Shambo and Shabchu, the
shoe.

8. THE NEPALI…..
 Nepali, another
predominant group of
Sikkim, has
sustained the
ethnicity of their own
culture in their
costume. The
Nepalese men dress
themselves in
Shurval, a Churidar
Pajama, topped off
by a shirt, known as
Daura. It is
associated with
Aaskot, wrist coat
and their belt, called

9.  The traditional costume of the Nepali
women of Sikkim is endowed with
fabulous hues. Pharia, the saree,
gorgeous in vibrant shades,
definitely augments the grace of the
Nepali women. The dressing gets
the right finish with a long loose
blouse, is fastened from four sides
and hence is called Chaubandi
Cholo. Another variety in blouse is
the Tharo Cholo. The upper portion
of the body is daintily enveloped with
a piece of cloth with wonderful
prints. It is called Hembari.

10. WOOLEN CARPETS ……….
 Woolen Carpets are without a
doubt the most famous offering to
come out of Sikkim. It is also
probably the oldest form of carpet
weaving in the world. The carpets
are really a treat to eyes as they
created by using different colored
wool. They are decorated with
exquisite patterns depicting
landscapes of snow clad mountains
or flowering valleys. Floral motifs
are also quite popular among the
people here. You will also see
styles taken from Buddhist
Iconography and geometrical
patterns.

11. HANDLOOMS ……
 Sikkim stays cold for most
part of the year and people
generally wear woolen
clothes. People of Sikkim
save a lot on wool and
money by designing the old
and used woolen blanket into
bags, shawls, jackets and
many dolls. Government has
opened some cottage
industries in the state to
promote and help people
grow in handlooms.
Handicraft products from
Sikkim are gaining
recognition and accolades
from all parts of the world.
And this fame and popularity
seems to have encouraged
the craftsmen of Sikkim even
more.

12. COSTUMES OF MANIPUR…
 The costumes of
Manipur carry their own
unique characteristics.
Stressed on its
functionality, the traditional
Manipuri costumes are
simple and easy to wear. A
traditional Manipuri
costume for women
includes a shawl called
Innaphi, a Phanek and a
wrap around skirt called
sarong. A Manipuri man
wears a dhoti, a jacket and
a white Pagri or turban.

13. Different costumes are worn
during the colorful Manipuri
festivals. In fact there are
separate costumes for
separate festivals in
Manipur. The Potlois and
Kumins are the traditional
costumes for the Rasa
Leela festivals. Other
traditional dresses worn
during the festivals and
festival related dances are
the Koks, Phurits etc. Some
other dress forms used by
different tribes in Manipur
are Lmaphie, Saijounba,
Ningthoupee and Phiranji.

14. TEXTILES……..
The growth of handicrafts and
textiles in Manipur is related to
the socio-religious functions
and imbued with their
philosophy of life. Woven
fabrics often identify the social
status of an individual. To
differentiate the chief from the
serf, the craftsmen produced
superior and durable textiles in
varied patterns and
workmanship. The craftsmen
improved their skills,
experimenting with vegetable
dyes and different kinds of
yarns.

15. DESIGN AND EMBROIDERY USED IN MANIPURI
TEXTILES………
 Lamphie: It is a war cloth that is a special type of shawl embroidered by
the women at home and is used by the warriors at the time of going out
for war.
 Ningthouphee: It is a waistcoat, which is presented by the king to the
warriors of the country.
 Saijounba: It is a long coat that is prepared with special embroideries for
the very trusted courtiers of the king.
 Phirananba: These are the small flags delicately embroidered and used
by the warriors as plumes on their turbans.
 Namthang-khut-hut: A design derived out of the head of Pakhangba on
the wrapper, meant to be used only by the ladies of the royal family.
 Khamenchatpa: These designs are embroidered on the dhotis and are
presented to the people of distinction.
 Phiranji: It is a red colored blanket presented to the persons of merit.
The color of the blanket is totally red and is believed to have been
copied from the blood with the placenta.

16. The material used for weaving clothes
was mainly from cotton and Kabrang
(mulberry silk). In both the plains and the
hills of Manipur cotton was widely grown.
Three types of cotton were available:
(i) White cotton
(ii) Reddish cotton
(iii) Tree cotton

17. FROMFIBER TO FABRIC……..
Traditionally cotton and silk
are the only two fibres used
for weaving cloth in
Manipura. Silk yarn is
obtained from the cocoons
of Silleima til that feeds on
the leaves of the silleima
tree, as well as from the
cocoons of other
silkworms. The hill people
cultivate the cotton plants,
and the Meiteis bought the
yarn through a system of
barter, offering them
vegetables and cereals in
exchange.

18. IN ORDER TO PRODUCE PROPER YARN THEY PASS
THROUGH THE FOLLOWING PROCESSES:
 Ginning is the process of removing the seeds from the cotton.
 Garding means cleaning the cotton by flicking method. Spinning
is the process through which the cotton is wound round the
wooden or iron spike.
 Winding is the process of transforming the yarn from wanks to
bobbins.
Twisting and Spinning
 Dyeing - the dying is done with indigenous dyestuff, mostly from
barks and the common type of mordants.
 Sizing - Once the yarn is ready, they start weaving and finally the
garments produced have to pass through the process of
bleaching. Yarns are bleached to make them white or to prepare
them for dying or printing.

19. SIGNIFICANCE OF COLORS…..
In traditional Meitei society, colors
are rife with symbolism. Red, the
colour of blood, signifies courage,
bravery and good luck. Green, the
colour of the surrounding vegetation,
is symbolic of growth, peace and
tranquillity. Yellow is associated with
the advent of spring and symbolizes
gaiety, innocence and the lively
sentiments of youth. White, used in
temples and for ritual dresses,
indicates purity, devotion and
sanctity. Black signifies evil,
bloodshed and death. Saffron is a
sign of sacrifice and surrender, and
is worn by women on sacred
occasions.

20. TYPES OF LOOM….
Three types of looms enjoy prevalence in
Manipura, the loin loom or khwang, the
throve shuttle loom or pangiyong, and the
fly shuttle loom or kon yongkhan.

21. DESIGN TECHNIQUES….

22. APPLIQUE…..
An ornamental style
developed using similar
materials, and involved
the stitching of pieces of
fabric on to the surface of
another fabric. The
technique blended
fabrics finely in a
harmonious combination.
Applique designs involve
eye-catching, rounded
patterns that cannot
otherwise be produced
on the loom.

23. EMBROIDERY….
There are three distinct types
of embroidery patterns in
Manipura. An interesting
pattern is the round or circular
design seen on the border of
the phanek. This pattern is
stylized and abstract. Another
pattern depicts natural objects
realistically, while a third type,
the sha-nga, has excellent
examples of exquisitely
worked needle craft that is
highly developed and
aesthetically appealing.

24. MOTIFS…..
The textile motifs of
Manipura are rooted in
sociological
significance and mystic
symbols. The designs
and patterns date back
over the centuries and
are associated with
commonly held beliefs,
customs and rituals.

25. Reference:---
www.indianetzone.com/costumes_sikkim.htm
www.indianetzone.com/costumes_manipur.htm
www.wikipedia.org
Thanx…