1. “It is not the strongest of the species
that survive, nor the most intelligent, but
the one most responsive to change.”
Charles Darwin

2. 64 YEARS

3. 65 YEARS

4. 70 YEARS

5. 82 YEARS

6. 88 YEARS

7. 88 YEARS

8. 114 YEARS

9. ISN’T IT TIME ?
3000 YEARS

11. CONTEMPORARY
METALS
SYMPOSIUM
RELEVANCE TO OUR INDUSTRY

12. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
SYMPOSIUM OUTLINE
1.A. HISTORY
1.B. PERCEPTION
1.C. CHALLENGES
1.D. TITANIUM INDUSTRY
1.E. MATERIAL PROPERTIES
1.F. APPLICATION CRITERIA
1.G. CONTEXT
2.A. PROCESSES
2.B. MADE IN USA
1
2
4.A. DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT
4.B. MANUFACTURING
4.C. FINISHING
4.D. ENGRAVING
4.E. REMOVAL
4
•QUESTIONS
•REFRACTORY ELEMENTS
•MELTING
•WEIGHT
•REFRACTORY ELEMENTS
•ALLOYS
•BEAUTY
•BIOCOMPATIBILITY
•DURABILITY
•ANODIZING
•STAMPING
•CASTING
•JOINING
•WELDING
•LASERING
•ENGRAVING
•MACHINING
•FINISHING
•SIZING
•METAL JOINING
•STONE SETTING
•KELLY
•CARLOS
•TONY
3.A. OPPORTUNITIES
3.B. LAMINATION
3
•TECHNOLOGY &
EQUIPMENT CAPABILITIES
•LAMINATION
•SCOTT KAY
•GARET
•CONSUMPTION
WORKSHOP
Q & A
BREAK
OPPORTUNITIESPROCESSESOVERVIEW
•VERSATILITY
•RESPONSABILITY
•TIMOKU™
Q & A
BREAK
Q & A
BREAK
WORKSHOP

13. CONTEMPORARY
METALS:
THE MATERIALS
REFRACTORY ELEMENTS ● ALLOYS

14. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
HISTORY
1.A REFRACTORY ELEMENTS
Refractory metals are a class of metals that are
extraordinarily resistant to heat and wear. The
expression is mostly used in the context of
materials science, metallurgy and engineering.
COMMON PROPERTIES
All have melting points above 2000 °C
All are hard at room temperature
All are chemically inert
Relatively high density
TITANIUM
VANDAIUM
CHROMIUM
ZIRCONIUM
NIOBIUM
MOLYBDENUM
HAFNIUM
TANTALUM
TUNGSTEN
RHENIUM
RUTHENIUM
OSMIUM
RHODIUM
IRIDIUM

15. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
HISTORY
1.A REFRACTORY • REACTIVE • STRATEGIC
"Few materials have as much potential for dynamic
growth during the 1990's - and beyond - as
titanium. It's on the cutting edge of some really
exciting and extraordinary developments, many of
which are in newly emerging technologies”
- John Glenn

16. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
HISTORY
1.A MODERN APPLICATIONS
SPORTS
MEDICAL
AUTOMOTIVE
ARCHITECTURAL
CONSUMER PRODUCTS

17. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
HISTORY
SPORTS
MEDICAL
AUTOMOTIVE
ARCHITECTURAL
CONSUMER PRODUCTS
1.A MODERN APPLICATIONS

18. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
HISTORY
AMERICAN EXPRESS – BLACK
TIFFANY & CO.
DAVID YURMAN
ROLEX
MOVADO
GUCCI
MASERATI
ECOSSE MOTORCYCLES
iPHONE (COMING SOON)
DIRECT.TV
AUDI
1.B CONTEMPORARY METAL PRESTIGE

19. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
CHALLENGES
1.C
HARDNESS
•Measured in Vickers or
Rockwell
EXTREMELY HIGH
BOILING POINT
•Roughly 5,948°F
(3,287 C)
HIGHLY REACTIVE
•Processed in oxygen-
free environments

20. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
CHALLENGES
1.C TITANIUM POWDER REACTION

21. 1.D CONSUMPTION
nitinol wire.wmv
HEART VALVES
KNEE & REPLACEMENTS
EXPANDABLE RIBCAGES
MAXIOFACIAL PROSTHETICS
SPINAL FUSION CAGES
TITANIUM INDUSTRY

22. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E REFRACTORY ELEMENT: TITANIUM
MATERIAL PROPERTIES
ATOMIC WEIGHT 47.867
DENSITY 4.507 g/cm3
MELTING POINT 1668°C / 3040 °F
BOILING POINT 3287 °C / 5949 °F
VICKERS HARDNESS 160-350
MORE TECHNICAL DATA
This titanium disk (bladed impeller disk) is
from the intake stage of a jet engine, where
the light weight and high strength of titanium
are key. Titanium is expensive because it must
be cast under inert atmosphere.

23. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E REFRACTORY ELEMENT: NIOBIUM
ATOMIC WEIGHT 92.90638
DENSITY 8.57 g/cm
3
MELTING POINT 2477 °C / 4491 °F
BOILING POINT 4744 °C / 8571 °F
VICKERS HARDNESS 65-230
This is high purity niobium crystal ribbon from Russia.
New methods have made this form obsolete, and most
was melted down. It is used in earrings and tongue
studs because it can be colored by oxidation.
MATERIAL PROPERTIES
ROCKET FUEL INJECTOR MELT BUTTON
Machine ShopRaw Material WarehouseQuality Control

24. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E REFRACTORY ELEMENT: ZIRCONIUM
ATOMIC WEIGHT 91.224
DENSITY 6.511 g/cm
3
MELTING POINT 1855 °C / 3371 °F
ROILING POINT 4409 °C / 7968 °F
VICKERS HARDNESS 150
This spectacular crystal bar of pure zirconium was
created by thermal decomposition of zirconium iodide.
Important in the nuclear industry, zirconium's latest
application is in body-piercing jewelry.
MATERIAL PROPERTIES

25. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E REFRACTORY ELEMENT: TANTALUM
ATOMIC WEIGHT 180.9479
DENSITY 16.65 g/cm
3
MELTING POINT 3017 °C / 5463 °F
BOILING POINT 5458 °C / 9856 °F
VICKERS HARDNESS 70-200
Tiny amounts of tantalum are used in the capacitors
in all high tech devices. This slab would be enough
for thousands of cell phones and laptop computers.
It's also used for medical implants like skull plates.
MATERIAL PROPERTIES

26. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E ALLOY: Ti 6-4
MATERIAL PROPERTIES
ALLOY
COMPOSITION
(ASTM Grade)
Alloy Description:
6% Aluminum, 4% Vanadium, balance Titanium
Ti-6Al-4V
[Ti-6-4]
(Grade 5)
Heat treatable, high-strength, most commercially
available Ti alloy ("workhorse" alloy for aerospace
applications), for use up to 400°C offering an
excellent combination of high strength, toughness, and
ductility along with good weldability and fabricability.

27. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
FROM ELEMENTS TO ALLOYS
MATERIAL PROPERTIES

28. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E ALLOY: BLACK Ti™
MATERIAL PROPERTIES
THREE TYPES OF TITANIUM ALLOYS
ALPHA TITANIUM ALLOYS
Commercially Pure Titanium
Low to medium strength
ALPHA BETA TITANIUM ALLOYS
Ti 6-4 and Black Ti™
Strength levels are medium to high
BETA TITANIUM ALLOYS
Typically 7-10% higher density compared
to Ti6-4
Patented by Spectore Corporation
14 years to develop
Proprietary Alloy Formula
Ceramic-like molecular structure

29. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E ALLOY: NITINOL
MATERIAL PROPERTIES

30. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E ALLOY: STAINLESS STEEL
MATERIAL PROPERTIES
ATOMIC WEIGHT 55.845
DENSITY 7.874 g/cm3
MELTING POINT 1538 °C / 2800 °F
BOILING POINT 2862 °C / 5182 °F
VICKERS HARDNESS 82
ATOMIC WEIGHT 51.996
DENSITY 7.19 g/cm3
MELTING POINT 1907 °C / 3465 °F
BOILING POINT 2671 °C / 4840 °F
VICKERS 1060 MPa

31. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E ALLOY: COBALT CHROME
MATERIAL PROPERTIES
(This data for CO only)
ATOMIC WEIGHT 58.9332
DENSITY 8.9 g/cm3
MELTING POINT 1495 °C / 2723 °F
BOILING POINT 2927 °C / 5301°F
VICKERS HARDNESS 196-700
ATOMIC WEIGHT 51.996
DENSITY 7.19 g/cm3
MELTING POINT 1907 °C / 3465 °F
BOILING POINT 2671 °C / 4840 °F
VICKERS 1060 MPa

32. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E ALLOY: COBALT CHROME
MATERIAL PROPERTIES

33. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.E ALLOY: TUNGSTEN CARBIDE
MATERIAL PROPERTIES
This data for W only, not Tungsten Carbide alloy.
ATOMIC WEIGHT 183.84
DENSITY 19.25 g/cm3
MELTING POINT 3422 °C / 6192 °F
BOILING POINT 5555 °C / 10031°F
VICKERS HARDNESS 275-2,050

34. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
APPLICATION CRITERIA
1.F MATERIAL ATTRIBUTES
1. BEAUTY
NATURALLY PLATINUM GRAY
MACHINE AND POLISHES WELL
2. BIOCOMPATIBILITY
BIOCOMPATIBLE
MEDICAL GRADE METAL
3. DURABILITY
RIGOROUS WEAR TESTS
GUARANTEE THE FINISH
REFINISH OR REPLACE PIECE
EXPERIENCE EXTREME WEAR
4. VERSATILITY
VARIOUS OXIDE THICKNESS ON THE MATERIAL
SURFACE
UNIQUE: BLACK TI IS THE ONLY
NON-COATED COMPLETELY
NICKEL FREE, AND INERT TITANIUM ALLOY KNOWN
THAT CAN BE PROCESSED TO BLACK
CAST, MACHINED, POLISHED, MATTE
TITANIUM
STRENGTH OF STEEL AND A WEIGHT
COMPARABLE TO ALUMINIUM
BLACK TI
REGULATE THE DEPTH AND TENACITY
IMPERVIOUS TO ALL CHEMISTRY*
COBALT
SIGNIFICANTLY HARDER THAN PLATINUM
FIDUCIARY RESPONSIBILITY
MATERIALS SHOULD ONLY COME FROM RESPONSIBLE AND ETHICAL COMPANIES

35. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.F: VICKERS HARDNESS SCALE
MATERIAL PROPERTIES
Titanium 6‐4
CP Titanium
Cobalt
Stainless Steel
Niobium
Platinum
Palladium
Sterling Silver
Gold
Aluminum
0 200 400 600 800 1000 1200
Tungsten Carbide
.

36. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
1.F ALLOY: TUNGSTEN CARBIDE
MATERIAL PROPERTIES

37. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
CONTEXT: CONTEMPORARY METALS IN JEWELRY
1.G

38. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
CONTEXT
1.G TITANIUM SPONGE PRODUCTION

39. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
CONTEXT: CONTEMPORARY METALS IN JEWELRY
1.G

40. Q&A 1
CONTEMPORARY METALS SYMPOSIUM
WHAT ARE CONTEMPORARY METALS?
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE APPLICATIONS FOR CONTEMPORARY METALS?
WHAT IS THE CRITERIA FOR CHOOSING METALS?

41. CONTEMPORARY
METALS:
PROCESSES
DISCUSSION OF TECHNIQUES

42. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A ANODIZING

43. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A ANODIZING

44. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A STAMPING

45. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A CASTING

46. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A CASTING: TITANIUM HAMMERS

47. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A WELDING•LASERING

48. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A LASERING•ENGRAVING

49. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A MACHINING

50. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A FINISHING

51. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A SIZING
R I N G F O R L I F E
A guarantee that insures ring customers a lifetime of comfort and security. Given the
strength of the metal and its inability to be sized, Edward Mirell stands behind its
product and consumer should they grow out of the size they originally purchased.

52. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.A METAL JOINING • STONE SETTING

53. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
PROCESSES
2.B MADE IN AMERICA

54. Q&A 2
CONTEMPORARY METALS SYMPOSIUM
WHAT PROCESS WAS MOST SURPRISING?
WERE YOU AWARE OF LASER ENGRAVING FOR WEDDING BANDS?
WHAT OTHER MATERIALS OR STONES WOULD YOU LIKE MIXED WITH
CONTEMPORARY METALS?

55. CONTEMPORARY
METALS:
OPPORTUNITIES
MATERIAL ATTRIBUTES AND LIMITATIONS

56. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
OPPORTUNITIES
3.A TECHNOLOGY AND EQUIPMENT CAPABILITIES
CO-EXTRUSION
LAMINATION
EXPLOSIVE BINDING
ULTRA SONIC BINDING

57. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
OPPORTUNITIES
3.A TECHNOLOGY AND EQUIPMENT CAPABILITIES
POWDER INJECTION MOLDING
HIPPING
SINTERING
DIRECT METAL LASER SINTERING
ELECTRONIC BEAM MELTING

58. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
OPPORTUNITIES
3.B LAMINATION TIMOKU™

59. Q&A 3
CONTEMPORARY METALS SYMPOSIUM
WERE YOU FAMILIAR WITH TIMOKU AND MOKUME GANE?
WHAT OPPORTUNITES COME TO MIND AS A RESULT OF THESE CAPABILITIES?
WHICH CAPABILITY IS MOST EXCITING FOR JEWELRY?

60. CONTEMPORARY
METALS:
PRODUCTION
DESIGN ● PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT ● ENGINEERING

61. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
4.A DESIGN & DEVELOPMENT
SPECTORE PROCESS

62. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
4.B MANUFACTURING
SPECTORE PROCESS

63. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
4.C MANUFACTURING
Typical Machined Piece:
1. Design
2. Product Development
3. Engineering
4. Prototype
5. Pilot Run
6. Perfect Prototype & Programming
7. CNC Milling
8. Raw Material Warehouse
9. Quality Control
10. Control
11. Polishing
12. Washing
13. Quality Control
14. Stone Set & Laser Marking
15. Quality Control
16. Pack
SPECTORE PROCESS
Quality Control insured
at each stage of the
process.

64. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
4.C MANUFACTURING
Typical Cast Piece:
1. Design
2. Product Development
3. Prototyping
4. Engineering
5. Master Model
6. Pilot Run
7. Final Wax Model
8. Mold
9. Silver Cast
10. Refinish / Minor Corrections
11. Production Mold
12. Invest Wax
13. Titanium Cast
14. Raw Material Warehouse
15. Quality Control
16. Grinding
17. Tub
18. Sand Blast
19. Polishing
20. Welding
21. Assembly
22. Hand Pre-Finish
23. Polishing
24. Washing
25. Quality Control
26. Laser Marking
27. Quality Control
28. Pack
SPECTORE PROCESS
Quality Control insured
at each stage of the
process.

65. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
4.C MANUFACTURING
Typical Anodized Piece:
1. Design
2. Product Development
3. Engineering
4. Prototype
5. Pilot Run
6. Final Programming
7. CNC Machining/Milling
8. Raw Material Warehouse
9. Quality Control
10. Control
11. Polishing
12. Washing
13. Quality Control
14. Laser Marking (Design)
15. Quality Control
16. Anodizing
17. Assembly
18. Hand Pre-Finish
19. Polishing
20. Washing
21. Quality Control
22. Laser Marking
23. Quality Control
24. Pack
SPECTORE PROCESS
Quality Control insured
at each stage of the
process.

66. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
4.C MANUFACTURING
Typical Profiled Piece (Gray):
1. Design
2. Product Development
3. Engineering
4. Prototype
5. Pilot Run
6. Final Programming
7. CNC Machining/Milling
8. Raw Material Warehouse
9. Quality Control
10. Control
11. Assembly
12. Inlay/Roll
13. Control
14. Profiling
15. Raw Material Warehouse
16. Control
17. Polishing
18. Washing
19. Quality Control
20. Laser Marking
21. Quality Control
22. Pack
SPECTORE PROCESS
Quality Control insured
at each stage of the
process.

67. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
4.C MANUFACTURING
Typical Profiled Piece (Black):
1. Design
2. Product Development
3. Engineering
4. Prototype
5. Pilot Run
6. Final Programming
7. CNC Machining/Milling
8. Raw Material Warehouse
9. Control
10. Tub or Assembly
11. Quality Control
12. Polish
13. Quality Control
14. Washing
15. Quality Control
16. Ovens
17. Control
18. Inlay/Roll, Profile, or Polish
19. Washing
20. Quality Control
21. Laser Marking
22. Quality Control
23. Pack
Quality Control insured
at each stage of the
process.
SPECTORE PROCESS

68. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
4.D FINISHING • REFINISHING
SPECTORE PROCESS

69. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
ENGRAVING
4.E MACHINING • MILL ENGRAVING

70. C O N T E M P O R A R Y M E T A L S S Y M P O S I U M
REMOVAL
4.F

72. Q&A 4
CONTEMPORARY METALS SYMPOSIUM
WERE YOU SURPRISED BY THE LENGTH OF THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS?
DID YOU KNOW SCOTCH BRITE PADS CAN POLISH JEWELRY?
ARE YOU MORE COMFORTABLE WITH CUTTING CONTEMPORARY METALS BANDS?

73. “… the one most responsive to change.”
Charles Darwin

74. VERY SPECIAL THANKS TO:

75. “I don't believe in a fate that will
fall on us no matter what we do.
I do believe in a fate that will fall on
us if we do nothing.”
- Ronald Reagan

76. THANK YOU
CONTEMPORARY METALS SYMPOSIUM
TIME FOR THE WORKSHOP