This document discusses various printing styles and methods. It describes steam style printing where color is directly applied to fabric and then steamed to fix it. It notes that discharge printing produces sharp outlines while resist printing results in less sharp outlines. Discharge printing involves using chemicals to destroy color in certain areas while resist printing uses techniques to prevent color fixation. The document provides details on specific discharge and resist printing techniques for different fabric types like cotton, silk, wool, and polyester. It concludes by mentioning wax resist printing where wax is printed on fabric and hardened before dyeing to produce cracked lines.

1. PRINTING
CLASSIFICATION
OF STYLES

2. Manner – Particular action is performed
Manner – printed effect is produced
Style – involves
 Mechanical operations
 Chemical reactions

3. Steam style (steamed to fix the colour)
Colour is directly applied to the fabric
Most of the dyes are direct printed.
Pigments, Vegetable colours and mordants

5.  Sharp outlines and free specks are difficult
 Small motif and dark ground
 Difficult to print knitted goods in fine design

6. Ground
White
Discharge
Colour
Discharge
Print &
Steam

7.  Print and then Dye
 Tie & Dye
 Bandhani Printing
 Batik Printing

8. Discharge Printing Resist Printing
 Sharp in outline
 Bright in appearance
 Perfect and sprinkling white
 Generally subdued
 Less bright
 Outlines are less sharp
 Drastic chemical reaction
required to destroy the
colour
 Little or no chemical action
is involved to prevent
fixation of colour
 Cost of printing is higher
 Ingredients have to be
selected carefully
 Cost of printing is lower
 Requires less chemicals and
auxiliaries
 Applicable to those colours
which can be discharged
 Effective in all cases, all
colours are capable of being
resisted
 Percentage of rejects is
higher
 Percentage of reject is lower

9. Ground
Dischargeable
Non-Dischargeable
Print with
white
Discharge
Paste and
Steam
Classical Discharge
Style

10. Print with
Mordant and Fix
Dye
Washing

11. Specifically for
Polyester
Dye and fix at
100° C
Print with paste
containing
Discharging agent
After fixation
and washing

12.  Chemical reagent – strong swelling action
 Causes the shrink
 Caustic Soda
 Print with Thickened caustic soda (55° to 60° Tw)
 Covering 50 % of the surface of fabric
 Crimped or Cockled effect
 Cotton/Silk – Caustic Soda
 Wool – Sulphuric acid
 Acetate rayon – Nitric acid

14.  Polyester/Cotton blend
 Cellulose (cotton) is completely removed
 Strong sulphuric acid (70-77 %)
 Fabric treated on Jigger Machine
 45 minute
 2 hours
Remove cellulose and sulphuric acid by washing

16.  Cellulosic potion is destroyed only in the printed area
 Acid liberating agent
 Print the fabric with
 Dry the fabric and cured at 150 °C for 5 minutes
 Washed
 Bleached with hydrogen peroxide
 Washed
 Dried

19. Resist style
Wax is printed and harden on fabric
Then dye the fabric in cold (40 °C)
Cracks of wax result into marble-like lines
Cracking effect
T janting used for wax print
Washed and dried

23.  C R Madhu
 Textile Processing Technology
 R C Technical Institute
 Ahmedabad, Gujarat
 crm4chemistry@gmail.com
 https://textilechemrose.blogspot.co
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