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Dilys Williams
Professor of Fashion Design for Sustainability
Director, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, University of the Arts London
Citylab 2050
Fashion Design Context
“Its (fashion’s) logic encroaches on the
areas of art, politics and science, it is
clear that we are talking about a
phenomenon that lies near the centre of
the modern world.
Fashion affects the attitude of most
people towards both themselves and
others.”
Svendsen (2006)
Fashion Industry Context
Fashion’s business employs 25 million people
globally. It contributes to individual and
community prosperity and can offer
independence, identity and social connection. It
marks significant contributions to our creative
industries in often delightful ways.
Yet it is also a significant contributor to the
degradation of natural systems, social injustice
and societal dis-ease. It exemplifies the machine
of consumerism, which has come to be one of
its defining features.
Fashion Thinking Context
“The shape of the global future
rests with the reflexivity of human
consciousness – the capacity to
think critically about why we think
what we do – and then to think and
act differently.”
Raskin (2008)
Our current state:
A geological classification defined as the (first) period during which human activity has been the dominant
influence on climate and the environment.
The Anthropocene
Commitment to Purpose
“We will strive for the ideals and
sacred things of the city, both alone
and with many, we will transmit this
city not less but greater, better and
more beautiful than it was transmitted
to us.”
Oath for Athenians 500 BC
Credit: Stephen Walter
The new wildernesses on our planet, waiting to be explored, are
information, knowledge, history and time.
These are altering our relationship with the physical world and the
old traditional landmarks.
Credit: Betsy Issacson
Personal Community Member Cultural Member Academy Member
Economic Power Public Participation Earth MemberPolitical Voice
Multi Layered Citizenship
Circular Design: cherish and be cherished
Engage Citizen Participation: Local loops and shared value
Engage Citizen Participation
Engage Citizen Participation: Local loops and multiplier effect
Extended value and re-shored manufacture
Mulberry
London Cloth Company Tender William Kroll
Geographic and extended value
Engage Citizen Participation: Global loops of extended value
M&S Shwopping
Engage Citizen Participation: Fashion services
Rentez-Vous
Engage Citizen Participation: Fashion services
Nudie Jeans Repair Shop
Mud Jeans ‘Lease a Jeans’
APC Butler Worn-Out Denim Series
Engage Citizen Participation: Design services
Antithesis
“Our multi-functional pieces aim
at contributing to a new
consumerism philosophy
advocating quality over quantity.”
Engage Citizen Participation: Design services
Tom of Holland Visible Mending Programme
Material Resourcefulness
Michelle Lowe-Holder
Christopher Raeburn From Somewhere
Material Resourcefulness
Design for the Circular Economy at Scale: decoupling success from the degradation of nature
Nike ‘Mobilize Makers’ project
nikemakingCSF
Specialist Informers: Humanising Data
Specialist Informers: Technical Innovation
V&A Fashion Climate Hackathon Michelle Lowe-Holder, FIREUp participant: 3D printing project
Hackney Fashion Hub
Are we tending to the leaves whilst continuing to sever the stem?
Metabolism or Mechanism?
Source: The Gaia Atlas of Cities
Katharine Hamnett
The Voice of the Designer: what is your design ethic?
Dr. Noki
Design Activism: I speak for nature and people
Sewing Bee / Shoreditch Sisters
The voices of maker and wearer: participatory design
Craftivist Collective
Meet ups
“It is our choices...that show
who we truly are, far more
than our abilities.”
J.K. Rowling
A Networked Society
“Once we know and are aware,
we are responsible for our action
and our inaction.
We can do something about it or
ignore it. Either way, we are still
responsible.”
Jean Paul Sartre
Environmental Profit and Loss
The reform of our education and training systems will have to be large scale and dramatic. Every job in Britain
will change to some extent and many will change substantially.
Aldersgate Group
Circular mindsets
Content
Product Innovation
Business Innovation
Process Innovation (New Methods and Curriculum)
Innovation systems: making them work
Design in an Ethic
A point of View
Design Disruption
Change perceptions
Design in Resourcefulness
Use Nothing New
Design 9 Lives
The Gift, the service
Design Magic
Rapid one use, replenish earth
Design inspired by means
Shaping technological application
Circular Design Frameworks (as different speeds and scales)
“We are leaving a world designed for efficiency
in repetition and entering one where value
comes from contributing to change... Because
change is the opposite of repetition, this requires
mastering a set of human social skills as a
prerequisite to being able to contribute —
including empathy, teamwork, change making...”
Ashoka CEO Bill Drayton
Mapping vs. Measuring
Source: Chris Kenny
Synthesizing and creating are also intellectual / cognitive capacities... more important in the 21st century than ever before.
But educators have less experience in training these ‘habits of mind’ and unless teachers themselves have these latter
skills, they will not be able to inculcate them effectively in students.
Howard Gardner, Professor of Cognition and Education at the Harvard Graduate School of Education
A crisis of perception: a crisis of imagination
Long live imagination!
Citylab2050 presentation_dilys_williams

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Citylab2050 presentation_dilys_williams

  • 1. Dilys Williams Professor of Fashion Design for Sustainability Director, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, University of the Arts London Citylab 2050
  • 2. Fashion Design Context “Its (fashion’s) logic encroaches on the areas of art, politics and science, it is clear that we are talking about a phenomenon that lies near the centre of the modern world. Fashion affects the attitude of most people towards both themselves and others.” Svendsen (2006)
  • 3. Fashion Industry Context Fashion’s business employs 25 million people globally. It contributes to individual and community prosperity and can offer independence, identity and social connection. It marks significant contributions to our creative industries in often delightful ways. Yet it is also a significant contributor to the degradation of natural systems, social injustice and societal dis-ease. It exemplifies the machine of consumerism, which has come to be one of its defining features.
  • 4. Fashion Thinking Context “The shape of the global future rests with the reflexivity of human consciousness – the capacity to think critically about why we think what we do – and then to think and act differently.” Raskin (2008)
  • 5. Our current state: A geological classification defined as the (first) period during which human activity has been the dominant influence on climate and the environment. The Anthropocene
  • 6. Commitment to Purpose “We will strive for the ideals and sacred things of the city, both alone and with many, we will transmit this city not less but greater, better and more beautiful than it was transmitted to us.” Oath for Athenians 500 BC
  • 7. Credit: Stephen Walter The new wildernesses on our planet, waiting to be explored, are information, knowledge, history and time. These are altering our relationship with the physical world and the old traditional landmarks. Credit: Betsy Issacson
  • 8. Personal Community Member Cultural Member Academy Member Economic Power Public Participation Earth MemberPolitical Voice Multi Layered Citizenship
  • 9. Circular Design: cherish and be cherished
  • 10.
  • 11. Engage Citizen Participation: Local loops and shared value
  • 13. Engage Citizen Participation: Local loops and multiplier effect
  • 14. Extended value and re-shored manufacture Mulberry
  • 15. London Cloth Company Tender William Kroll Geographic and extended value
  • 16. Engage Citizen Participation: Global loops of extended value M&S Shwopping
  • 17. Engage Citizen Participation: Fashion services Rentez-Vous
  • 18. Engage Citizen Participation: Fashion services Nudie Jeans Repair Shop Mud Jeans ‘Lease a Jeans’ APC Butler Worn-Out Denim Series
  • 19. Engage Citizen Participation: Design services Antithesis “Our multi-functional pieces aim at contributing to a new consumerism philosophy advocating quality over quantity.”
  • 20. Engage Citizen Participation: Design services Tom of Holland Visible Mending Programme
  • 22. Christopher Raeburn From Somewhere Material Resourcefulness
  • 23. Design for the Circular Economy at Scale: decoupling success from the degradation of nature Nike ‘Mobilize Makers’ project
  • 25. Specialist Informers: Technical Innovation V&A Fashion Climate Hackathon Michelle Lowe-Holder, FIREUp participant: 3D printing project
  • 26. Hackney Fashion Hub Are we tending to the leaves whilst continuing to sever the stem?
  • 27.
  • 28. Metabolism or Mechanism? Source: The Gaia Atlas of Cities
  • 29. Katharine Hamnett The Voice of the Designer: what is your design ethic?
  • 30. Dr. Noki Design Activism: I speak for nature and people
  • 31. Sewing Bee / Shoreditch Sisters The voices of maker and wearer: participatory design Craftivist Collective Meet ups
  • 32. “It is our choices...that show who we truly are, far more than our abilities.” J.K. Rowling A Networked Society
  • 33. “Once we know and are aware, we are responsible for our action and our inaction. We can do something about it or ignore it. Either way, we are still responsible.” Jean Paul Sartre Environmental Profit and Loss
  • 34. The reform of our education and training systems will have to be large scale and dramatic. Every job in Britain will change to some extent and many will change substantially. Aldersgate Group Circular mindsets
  • 35. Content Product Innovation Business Innovation Process Innovation (New Methods and Curriculum) Innovation systems: making them work
  • 36. Design in an Ethic A point of View Design Disruption Change perceptions Design in Resourcefulness Use Nothing New Design 9 Lives The Gift, the service Design Magic Rapid one use, replenish earth Design inspired by means Shaping technological application Circular Design Frameworks (as different speeds and scales)
  • 37. “We are leaving a world designed for efficiency in repetition and entering one where value comes from contributing to change... Because change is the opposite of repetition, this requires mastering a set of human social skills as a prerequisite to being able to contribute — including empathy, teamwork, change making...” Ashoka CEO Bill Drayton Mapping vs. Measuring Source: Chris Kenny
  • 38. Synthesizing and creating are also intellectual / cognitive capacities... more important in the 21st century than ever before. But educators have less experience in training these ‘habits of mind’ and unless teachers themselves have these latter skills, they will not be able to inculcate them effectively in students. Howard Gardner, Professor of Cognition and Education at the Harvard Graduate School of Education A crisis of perception: a crisis of imagination

Editor's Notes

  1. Context, designer, tutor, programme director, researcher, creator of csf, ma, myriad of projects and csf as a project…
  2. Why fashion as artistic and business practice is so important to social and ecological context..and economic and individual
  3. Why uni v imp place – what about lcf/ ual makes it the place for change…
  4. The bigger picture We have exceeded 3 of the 9 planetary boundaries within which we need to remain if we want to continue to develop and thrive for generations to come ( nitrogen, cc, biodiversity loss)
  5. 2d – managing change B – funding strategy 2f – relationships of strategic importance to university CSF UAL Research centre commitment
  6. i) Disseminating conceptual and complex ideas to a wide variety of audiences
  7. Deepening our roots – shared purpose, different methods and points of application – my work and our work…role of leadership
  8. h) Strategic partners j) Sig portfolio of KE activities of benefit to the uni Real world application of ideas and real world as a means to generate ideas…test them, move them on…shared benefit