The document provides information about the darkroom process for developing photographic film. It explains that photographic film contains light-sensitive silver halide crystals. When film is developed in a darkroom, it is processed using various chemicals like developer, stop bath, fixer and hypo clear. The darkroom process allows images captured on film to be enlarged onto photographic paper using an enlarger. The document also details the various chemicals, equipment, and health and safety practices used in darkrooms.

1. Photography
and Digital
Manipulation
Robbie Hickman
1
Darkroom Process
and Camera Guide

2. Darkroom Process
How does photographic film work?
Photographic film is a thin, flexible strip of transparent plastic material that is coated with a
light-sensitive gelatin emulsion; this emulsion contains silver halide crystals which are light
sensitive and microscopically small, consisting of silver and one or more halogens e.g.
bromide and iodide. If two halogens are used at the same time, the crystals will react
quickly upon being mixed with silver. A daguerreotype is a good example of how
photographic film has been used; it involves forming an image on a polished silver surface
whilst using iodide.
What is the darkroom process?
The darkroom process is a method which involves the processing of light sensitive photographic
materials within a room that is made completely dark to allow the process to go smoothly. Images
are first taken via camera on photographic film, which is then developed within a tank. The following
chemicals: developer, stopper, fixer and hypo clear are all used on the film, after which the negatives
are taken to an enlarger. The enlarger, which is a specialized transparency projector, projects light
onto the photo-sensitive paper (usually for 20-30 seconds). The overall image is then developed
using the chemicals, developer, stopper and fixer before being left to dry.

3. Darkroom Chemicals
Developer
A developer is the chemical substance used to make
images appear on photographic film. It accomplishes this
by activating the silver halide crystals which form part of
the emulsion on photographic material. When the halide
crystals come into contact with the developer, some of
them will turn a shade of black due to exposure to light;
this happens because the crystals are highly sensitive to
light.
Stop Bath
A stop bath is defined as an acid or rinse which
stops the action of a developer in activating the
crystals; the acid halts the developing process as
the print is placed into it. It then ‘fixes’ the print,
preventing any additional dark areas from
forming on it. These dark areas would most
likely ruin the overall quality of the image.
Fixer
The fixer is a chemical preservative which ‘fixes’ the print
by removing silver halide crystals that are unexposed
from the emulsion on the paper. This effectively ensures
that the paper becomes ‘light safe’, meaning that no
more dark areas will form on the paper due to light after
it has been fixed. However, if the paper is not fixed
properly, the image can turn into a shade of yellow over
time thus ruining the look of the overall image.
Hypo Clear
‘Hypo clear’ is an agent used to reduce the level of water that
is present on the film. It helps with the drying process of the
images because it causes the water to drain off the film
without leaving any small droplets or streaks of water behind
which would potentially cause marks or spots to become
present on the paper. It is not always necessarily used, though
it can help with the overall look of the print.

4. Darkroom Equipment
Tanks
Also referred to as a ‘developing tank’, this light-
tight container is made out of either plastic or steel
and is used for developing reels of film into
negatives. Because photographic film cannot be
exposed to light during processing, the developing
tank is to be used in darkness. The rolls of film are
held in a spiral shape by a spool (which is placed
inside the tank).
Spools
The spool is to be placed inside the developing tank
so that the film can be loaded onto it. The spool is
also referred to as a ‘film reel’. It holds the
photographic film in a spiral shape easily due to the
presence of grooves; these ensure that the film is
smoothly loaded ono the spool. The grooves also
allow for the chemicals in the developing tank to
reach all of the film.
Measuring Cylinders
Measuring cylinders are used with the purpose of
obtaining accurate measurements regarding the amount
of chemicals that are placed within the developing tank.
These tend to be calibrated with metrics and are
resistant to most photographic chemicals; this is
beneficial because measurements can be carried out
without any concerns regarding the sides of the cylinder
getting burned.
Thermometers
Thermometers are a vital aspect of the darkroom
process because they help to identify the temperature
of the chemicals within the developing tank. Chemicals
are to be used at specific temperatures otherwise they
can have a negative impact on the process in terms of
time and quality. Thermometers tend to offer clear and
coherent temperature readings.

5. Darkroom Equipment
Enlarger
Also referred to as a projection printer, this device
allows ‘enlargement’ of a negative to a larger point
and is mainly used with the purpose of producing a
photographic print. Negatives are placed within the
carrier and the lamp/light source shines through the
negative, thus light is projected onto the exposed and
sensitive emulsion based paper. The enlarger features
a height adjustment level and a focusing knob; these
are mainly used with the purpose of resizing the
prints and ensuring sharp projection of the image
respectively. This ensures that a successful print is
created.
Safe Light
The safe light is suitable for a photographic
darkroom because it does well to provide
a great deal of illumination from parts of
the visible spectrum that has a minimal
effect on the light sensitive paper. It is
strongly recommended that safelights are
kept at a fair distance from the working
area because the light is still able to ruin
the paper if it is too close. Some papers
require total darkness.
Timer
The purpose of the timer is to control, as
well as highlight the length of an exposure
within the darkroom. The timer can be
connected directly to the enlarger and
safe light. As soon as a desired time is
reached, the enlarger’s light will switch off
as the safelight turns on. Timers can either
be analogue (old-fashioned) or digital.
Analogue timers sometimes have glow in
the dark numbers, therefore these are
ideal for use in the darkroom.

6. Darkroom Practice
Health and Safety in the Darkroom
(COSHH)
There are general rules regarding how to safely
manage and handle the chemicals that are used in
the darkroom. These rules ensure that the working
environment is safe and that there is a reduced stress
of getting injured for those working within the room.
1) Access to the darkroom should be limited; only
authorized persons are allowed to work in here.
2) The work area needs to be kept clean. Objects,
especially glass bottles should not be left
cluttered on the floor as they can result in a
tripping hazard and therefore injury.
3) The wet and dry areas should be kept separated
and chemicals need to be segregated.
4) People must not eat, drink or smoke within the
darkroom.
5) It is important to ensure that the darkroom is
well-ventilated.
6) Protective equipment e.g. gloves and/or goggles
should be worn when needed.
7) All chemicals should be labelled and all trays
and containers closed/covered.
8) No chemicals must be washed down the sink,
but disposed of within an appropriate waste
container.
9) All chemicals must be stored in locations that
will minimize the chances of breakage and
splashing.
10) Paper towels and saw dust must not be used to
clean up acid spills on the floor/on surfaces
because this may cause a fire.
General common sense should be used in the
darkroom due to the lack of light.

7. 7

8. Anatomy of the 600D
1
2
3
5
4
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
1. LCD Screen
2. Capture Button
3. View Finder
4. Mode Dial
5. On/Off Switch
6. Exposure Button
(changes aperture in manual)
8. Delete Button
9. Playback Button
10. Focal Length
11. F-Stop
(maximum aperture value)
12. Lens Release Button
13. Lens
14. Filter Size

9. Storage Devices
There are two different types of storage device. These are cards that are graded
on the read, as well as write speed; these are important aspects of the cards and
they can have an impact on how many images are taken in quick succession and
whether or not HD recording can be used. The cards guarantee sustained
consistent write speeds of up to 2, 4, 6 or 10 mbs (megabytes per second) and
can allow for up to 130GB – 16GB storage of memory. High class cards are
required for HD pictures and for shooting photos rapidly.
SD (Secure Digital)Card
An SD card is a flash memory card that is designed to provide high-capacity
memory in small sizes. They are used in a variety of portable devices including
camcorders, digital cameras, hand-held computers, car navigation systems and
mobile phones. An SD card features a high data transfer rate and utilizes flash
memory to store and retain data; no power source is required for the card.
CF (Compact Flash) Card
A CF memory card is highly popular; it utilizes flash memory technology to store
data and has no moving mechanical parts. It does not require power to retain any
data e.g. using a battery. People who use CF cards will be able to add data to a
wide range of computing devices.
Both types of storage device are quite similar in comparison. They do not require
power to store data and are able to retain fairly large amounts of memory in a
small card. However, an SD card has the ability to provide encryption capabilities,
thus ensuring secure distribution of material such as music, video and E-Books
despite its small size. When it comes to CF cards, flash is non-volatile memory;
this means that data can be stored for extended periods of time in a continued and
uninterrupted manner.

10. Lighting a Subject
Pop-up Flash
This form of artificial lighting is a common
form of lighting on most cameras. It utilizes
the power from the camera’s battery and
the flash gives off a harsh and direct light
which can always be softened by diffusing,
bouncing or changing the compensation.
Softening the light would be beneficial
because the bright light could potentially
produce harsh and unattractive results
regarding the look of the image.
Studio Light
These can come in two different forms:
strobe lights or continuous lights. Strobe
lights produce a high amount of light; these
are often used with the purpose of allowing
a great deal of light to fall onto the subject.
The photographer will be able to identify
this. Continuous lights tend to produce a lot
less light than strobes. Both types of studio
light are often used in conjunction with soft
boxes with the purpose of diffusing the light
i.e. dispersing it over a wide area.
How Light Can Be Diffused:
Diffusing light can be beneficial for the overall
image because it reduces glare and shadows,
minimizing blemishes and replicating ambient
lighting. There are a variety of ways to diffuse
light in an image, however this would depend
primarily on the style of image the photographer
desires to capture. If the image is staged and
taking place within a studio of some kind, a soft
box i.e. a photographic lighting device can be
used. A soft box ensures that light is projected
over a wide area because it has a large opening
at the front that spreads the light. To diffuse the
light even further, a diffusion screen could be
fitted onto the front.

11. Focal Length
The focal length is defined as the gap between the lens and the image sensor
of a camera. This applies to when a subject/location is in focus. Focal length
tends to be stated in millimetres and is a general measure regarding how
strongly light is either converged or diverged by the camera. If the gap is large,
the camera will zoom in more. However, if the gap is quite short there will be
less zoom.
There are two main types of lenses: zoom and prime.
Prime:
The prime lenses tend to have a fixed focal length so they can be used in film
and photography. They are also measured at up to 85mm in length. Prime
lenses have a high aperture value, meaning that it lets more light in and enables
sharpness which can have a positive impact on image quality. This can be
considered an advantage of using the prime lens. A disadvantage of using the
prime lens would be that the camera could shoot an alternate image to the one
given. This can result in the image looking degraded, thus losing quality.
Zoom:
As opposed to prime lenses, zoom lenses have variable focal lengths. This
means that the camera can change smoothly from a long, far-away shot to an
up-close shot of the same subject if the photographer changes the focal length.
An advantage of using the zoom lens would be increased versatility i.e. the
ability to change. Photographers can rapidly frame a subject and alter the focal
length to capture a wide range of different framings. However, it can be fairly
time consuming to remove and change the lens; doing so can also allow for
dust to get to the sensor.
There are four different types of lenses that can be used with zoom and prime
lenses. They are:
Wide angle lenses (10-34mm): these are ideal for capturing large objects or
scenes in great detail.
Standard Lens (43-80mm): these are are ideal for general snaps of subjects
and/or locations.
Telephoto Lens (85-200mm): these lenses are great for producing portraits, and
capturing products and subjects from far away.
Long Telephoto Lens (200mm and above): this lens can shoot a subject from a
distance e.g. wildlife, sport and journalism and still retain good detail.

12. 35mm
Compared to the previous
image, the 35mm focal length
enables the camera to zoom in
closer to the calendar. Despite
being focused on closely, the
calendar is still established in
strong relation to its
surroundings. The detail is
even greater within the image,
especially regarding the
calendar. There is another
difference; the outlines of the
wall and blinds seem slightly
‘tilted’ in some way to the right.
18mm
This focal length has allowed
the camera to provide focus on
the calendar on the wall from
some distance away. Despite
the fact that the photographer
is positioned further from the
image, the calendar is in fact
the most visually attractive
aspect of the image; unlike the
rest of the room, the calendar
appears to be far more
detailed. The outlines of the
blinds, wall and paper as well
as computer screens are all
straight within the image,
therefore the photo is a fully
accurate presentation of real
life.
55mm
The 55mm setting ensures
that the focus is closer still.
The calendar takes up much
of this photo and specific
aspects (the word ‘the’ and
the numbers) are made
much more clear and the
outlines of all aspects of the
image (the paper and the
corner of the computer
screen) seem to be tilted
even further to the right,
therefore giving the illusion
that the room seems to be
‘falling over’ somehow.

13. Lenses
Tilt-Shift
A tilt-shift lens simulates a shallow depth of
field and enables photographers to
transcend the normal restrictions of the
camera. It is normally used with the purpose
of adding ‘miniature effect to an image’.
When this happens, the aspects of a far-
away location seem very small in
comparison to their size in real life e.g. a
landmark or a building. It almost creates the
illusion of a miniature model when in
actuality it is an image taken from a high
angle e.g. a helicopter.
Fisheye
A ‘fisheye’ is an extremely wide angle
lens which produces a strong sense of
visual distortion, most often with the
intention of creating a panoramic image.
The field of vision for a fisheye lens
covers up to 180 degrees of the scene
taken; this scale is reduced towards the
edges of the image.
Macro Lens
The micro lens is suitable for capturing
images that are highly up-close to the
subject (as shown in the image on the left).
These objects tend to be very small and the
focus is more nearer; this ensures that the
object is the most easily recognizable
feature. In essence, the macro lens
produces a life-sized depiction of a small
object and it can also be considered the
opposite of the tilt-shift lens.
Focusing can be used with the purpose of applying artistic effects to an image or capturing scenes,
objects, locations etc. in significant detail. If a photographer desires to create something
professional and quite unique in comparison to existing images, he/she will be able to do so by
choosing one of these lenses. Alternatively, the photographer could experiment with these
techniques and identify which one bests suits their own idea of an image they hope to create.

14. Filters
A polarizing filter gives much deeper
blues for both water and sky and cuts
reflections and glare; this means that it
is suitable for paparazzi and landscape
photographers. The filter, in essence,
changes the way a camera sees and
treats light within an image. The filter
does well to improve contrast within an
image, as well as for managing
reflections (of the camera in windows).
Neutral Density Filters are mostly used with the
purpose of decreasing the amount of light which
enters the camera through the lens. If a
photographer desires to capture instances of
motion within their image(s) e.g. within photos of
vehicles on a highway. This is usually
accomplished through use of high shutter speeds.
ND filters (for short) can also be utilized to
maintain shutter speed, keeping it consistent in
each image taken by a photographer. The filter
manages things like wavelengths, colours and
light within the image; thus resulting in a
completely different expression of the way the
image looks in real life e.g. black and white.
UV Filters are used to protect the front glass
element of a lens. They were traditionally
used on older cameras to cut back on UV
light (from the sun) which would continue to
expose film after the initial image had been
taken. UV filters prevent ultraviolet (UV) light
from getting into the camera; this would have
obviously been beneficial for traditional
cameras and photographic film as film reels
were very sensitive to light and could be
ruined if exposed to it. UV filters eliminate the
chances of this occurring with the highly
sensitive photographic film.

15. Exposure
Exposure is defined as the amount of light that reaches photographic film or an
electronic image sensor. If too little light reaches the film, it will be
underexposed. This means that the image will appear inadequate in regard to
how it looks in real-life at the time the photo was taken. As shown in the image
below, the scene does not appear to be influenced by light at all. The primary
light source within the image will have been light from the sun. However,
because of the underexposure an impression is created of a cloud having
passed over the sun at the time of the shoot.
If too much light reaches the film, the photo will be overexposed. This means
that the aspects of the image are influenced by too much light; this has an
impact on the image because it makes some aspects a lot less clear. Therefore,
the image loses quality and a strong sense of clumsiness is implied. As shown
below, the sky no longer appears blue compared to the other images; instead it
appears white due to the increased brightness. If the correct amount of light
reaches the film (as controlled by the photographer), the overall image should
appear in the same way as it does in real-life (as shown below) because the
exposure is correct.
Exposure is controlled by the following settings: aperture, shutter speed and film
speed.

16. Aperture (AV mode)
Aperture refers to the hole within the lens which controls depth of field, whilst
simultaneously controlling the amount of light that is allowed to expose the
image sensor. Aperture can be controlled through use of two different functions.
These are:
AV (Aperture Value): this regulates the degree of exposure to light in regard to
the film and/or image sensor.
MV (Manual Value): the aperture can be controlled by pressing the up/down
buttons on the camera.
These can be changed using the mode dial. The size of the hole can vary;
these sizes can be measured through use of F numbers (or F-Stops). Low
umbers such as 5.6 indicates a larger opening which will allow a high amount of
light into the sensor. It also reduces the depth of field. A high F-number e.g. 16
means that the aperture opening will be smaller. This decreases the amount of
light that will pass through the hole whilst increasing the depth of field.
The image pane is influenced by the depth of field. For example, a small
aperture is necessary for focus on objects in the foreground, middle-ground,
background etc. so that they are reasonably sharp. A large aperture can be
used to throw the background out of focus, thus making it less distracting and
allowing for increased focus on the subject/object. A large aperture can be used
within portrait and product photography.

17. Large Aperture (f/19)
This high aperture (as
shown in this image)
ensures that the subject
is shown very clearly in
the same way as his
surroundings e.g. the
pictures on the wall and
the light above him. The
whole image is clear as
a high amount of light
has been enabled to
enter the camera.
Medium Aperture (f/9)
As I decreased the
aperture slightly, less
light was allowed to
enter the camera.
Although the subject
still looks fairly clear,
his surroundings
appear blurred. The
overall quality of the
image has been
reduced.
Small Aperture (f/3)
I decreased the
aperture even further
within the image. As
only a small amount of
light was allowed to
enter the camera, the
quality of the image
decreased. The
surroundings are now
completely out of focus
and the subject
appears quite blurred.

18. Shutter Speed (TV mode)
Shutter Speed is the length of time in which the shutter is open when the
button is pressed to capture a photograph.
Shutter Priority Mode: (TV) lets one choose how long the shutter will be
open. The camera will then adjust to other settings e.g. 1/2 a second and
1/250 a second so that the photographer will be able to obtain the desired
exposure.
The wide range of shutter speeds determines how fast a photographer
can capture an image. A 1/1000th of a second or 500th of a second is an
example of a fast shutter speed, whereas 5 seconds is an example of a
slow shutter speed when it comes to taking photos. The maximum shutter
speed a HD camera can go through is 1/4000th of a second which is
really fast. The slowest shutter speed for a camera is 30 seconds. Some
cameras offer an option for a shutter speed of 1-2 minutes.
Shutter speeds are shown in fractions or parts of a second. The smaller
the number the quicker the shutter opens and closes, therefore the faster
images can be taken. As exposures get longer, the shutter speeds will be
measured in whole seconds rather than fractions of seconds.
Slower shutter speeds can be used to depict movement within a
photograph. When a slower shutter speed is used, a longer time passes
from the moment the shutter opens until the moment it closes. This
means that there is more time for movement to be recorded by the
camera, and it also allows for an increased amount of light to enter the
camera which is beneficial when it comes to shooting in dark conditions,
however the subject needs to be still and a tripod is required if one wants
to avoid camera shake.
Faster shutter speeds freeze movement in a photograph. A shorter time
passes from the moment the shutter opens until the moment it closes.
This results in less time for movement to be recorded by the camera and
also ensures that a sharp image that captures moments the human eye
cannot is created. Fast shutter speeds require a lot of light to get the
correct exposure, and therefore an intriguing image.

19. Fast Shutter Speed
(1/500 seconds)
This fast shutter speed
does not appear to
influence the aspects of
the image because it is
too fast to record
movement. The vehicles
within the image appear
to be stationary i.e. not
moving and there is no
illusion of movement
within the image.
Medium Shutter Speed
(1/60 seconds)
This shutter speed has a
noticeable effect on the
aspects of the image; as I
decreased the shutter
speed, the vehicles I was
able to capture on-camera
appear to be moving (when
studied closely) and not
stationary like the vehicles
in the previous one. The
vehicles appear slightly
blurred and this creates the
impression of movement.
Slow Shutter Speed (1/2
seconds)
The slow shutter speed used
within the image has clearly
recorded the movement of
the vehicles, highlighting
their speed. The blurriness
within the image creates a
strong sense of movement.
The slower shutter speed
ensured that there was more
time for movement to be
recorded within the image
and I was able to accomplish
this by altering the shutter
speed.

20. ISO (Film Speed)
ISO stands for International Standards Organization. The ISO of a camera
changes how sensitive an image sensor is to light. The reason why this setting
has its name is to differentiate it from other settings on the camera e.g. shutter
speed.
The ASA (Advertising Standards Authority) number would inform a
photographer how sensitive the film is to light. The bigger the number the more
sensitive or ‘faster’ the film or sensor is. A ‘faster’ film or sensor requires
additional light to produce an image than a slow one.
When capturing images in low light conditions e.g. a dark room without a tripod
or other form of support such as a flash, increasing the ISO speed or using a
faster film will let the photographer to obtain the images he/she needs. For
example, if the ISO is increased to 100, 200, 300, 400…800 the image will get
steadily brighter.
As ISO speeds increase, the chances of seeing ‘noise’ within the photographs
also increases. ‘Noise’ refers to sections of the image that aren’t captured well,
therefore distortion can appear. Image noise can be considered a disadvantage
of ISO film speed because it can significantly decrease the quality of
photographs. In particular ‘image noise’ is most noticeable in the shadows of an
image and in larger areas of a similar colour such as the sky. When image
quality needs to be very high, a low ISO speed is required to avoid noise within
the picture.

21. ISO300
The alteration of film
speed within the camera
has enabled the image
taken to retain its natural
look; the aspects of the
image are quite sharp
and therefore fully visible.
The correct exposure has
been achieved and the
image is of a high quality
as the low speed ensures
noise has been avoided.
ISO800
As the film speed has been
increased, it has become
difficult for the camera to
maintain the same quality
as in the previous film
speed. This is due to the
presence of noise which
affects the detail of the
image and has altered its
sharpness in a negative
way. This shows how
changing film speed can be
a negative thing.
ISO1600
I have increased the shutter
speed to the point where
the level of sharpness and
detail has been decreased;
the writing on the poster
shown on the wall is not
clear i.e. hard to read. The
general quality of the image
has been reduced
completely and its aspects
have been decreased in
regard to detail. This is due
to lots of noise which is
caused by the high film
speed.

22. White Balance
White Balance is used with the purpose of allowing for the camera to
understand the colour white, or colour balance in general. The photographer will
want to utilize this setting to alter the colour within a photograph.
White Balance is measured in Kelvins and it is used to neutralize colour
temperature which could blue to the image unnecessarily (this could reduce the
quality of the image. In studios, lights that are 5000 Kelvin are used. Where
there are tungsten or fluorescent lights, white balance needs to be used. The
camera assumes the image is being shot within a warm environment, therefore
it will add blue to an image. This should usually be avoided if the photographer
desires to obtain a visually appealing image. Photographers will most likely
utilize white balance to ensure their image(s) look natural; this is generally
accomplished through the adjustment of colour in regard to a variety of lighting
situations.
There are four different types of white balance that can be chosen:
Tungsten: the colour temperature with this setting is highly ‘warm’. A strong
blue colour cast can appear within images taken in this setting if it isn’t taken
under a light source.
Daylight: this camera setting should be used outside in the daylight (hence the
name of the setting). The sun would generally shine on the subject to make the
image look intriguing and images should not be taken in an interior location with
no light otherwise the wrong image will be created.
Cloudy: this setting provides the image with a warmer appearance, adding an
orange tint to the image. The images should be captured with the subject on a
cloudy day or in the shade when this setting is used. If the setting is used
anywhere else, it will not work.
Fluorescent: this camera setting will fix the image, especially if the image has a
green tint under the fluorescent lighting within the scene or if the image looks
‘too green’ in general.

23. Each camera setting has influenced these images in different ways. All four images contrast
in regard to visual quality and lighting; this is due to the alteration of the white balance
setting in between each photo of the exact same ‘Fire Exit’ sign which is clearly in an interior
location. The tungsten setting is usually ideal for capturing images where a light bulb is
present as a light source; however there were no light bulbs present in the location I chose.
The result is that the overall image looks very dark; shadows are the predominating
elements. The ‘Cloudy’ setting has had little effect on the image, however the image looks
blurred. The reason for this would be that the corridor has lights which could almost amount
to daylight (as shown in the ‘daylight’ setting on the bottom left in which the image retains a
high quality as well as all of its colours due to exposure to light). The ‘Cloudy’ setting needs
to be shot in a dark place for the image to work. The ‘White Fluorescent Light’ makes the
Cloudy
6000KTungsten Light
3200K
White Fluorescent Light
4000K
Daylight
5200K

24. 24

25. Flatbed Scanner
A scanner is a device that is used to scan things like
printed documents, images, objects and pictures.
The scanner converts these to digital images e.g.
JPEGs which can be viewed easily on a digital
device e.g. PC, tablet or mobile phone.
It records light and converts it into digital information.
A full colour image can be created.
Advantages:
Scanners are simple and easy to use. They are able
to produce high-resolution images.
Disadvantages:
The scanner is quite large, therefore it would be
difficult to carry around.
WebcamA webcam is a camera that is often used as a
method of video telephony, surveillance, computer
vision, broadcasting and video making. They can be
used for photography and the creation of time lapses,
as well as to record multiple pictures via computer.
Advantages:
These are fairly straightforward to operate. It is
already built-in, therefore there is no need to pay for
it.
Disadvantages:
The lens is smaller, therefore images can be of a low
quality due to less light being allowed to enter the
sensor.
Mobile PhoneA mobile phone is a camera device that has the
ability to capture images and video whilst being
carried around. Camera phones are straightforward
to use as opposed to digital cameras. They have
fixed sensors and focal lenses which ensures no
extra costs needed. Some phones use larger
sensors as a USP (Unique Selling Point) e.g. Nokia
Lumia 1020 with a 41 megapixel sensor which would
enable greater image quality.
Advantages:
Mobile phones are portable, and therefore easy to
carry. It can be quick to take photos.
Disadvantages:
The size of the sensor is smaller; therefore image
quality would be lower compared to a DLSR camera
because less light can reach the sensor.

26. Original image Levels
(CTRL/CMD + L)
Colour Adjustments
(CTRL/CMD + U)
Dodging and Burning
(O)
Photoshop Adjustments

27. Sharpening
(CTRL/CMD + ALT + SHIFT + F)
Filter:
Blur, Noise, Sharpen
Dark Strokes
Monochrome
(CTRL/CMD + SHIFT + U)
Photoshop Adjustments
Cropping
(C)