This document discusses the cosmetics industry and innovation in cosmetics. It begins with definitions of cosmetics and an overview of the global cosmetics market. It then discusses key factors such as research and development, exports, and advertising expenditures. Examples are given of innovative cosmetic products that address issues like sun protection, hair care, and skin shine. The role of language and borrowing terms from science in marketing cosmetics is also examined.

1. Transforming Science Into Dreams:g
Taking A Closer Look
by Agnes Meilhac
www.beautyterm.com

2. Cosmetics
from the Greek “kosmetikos” or skilled at
d t
Cosmetics
adornment
“ ti l i t d d t b bb d“articles intended to be rubbed,
poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,
i t d d i t th i li d tintroduced into, or otherwise applied to
the human body… for cleansing,
b tif i ti tt tibeautifying, promoting attractiveness,
or altering the appearance”
CFD&C Act

3. Cosmetics:
Part of Our Culture and Civilization

4. Global Overview:
the Cosmetics Industry Todaythe Cosmetics Industry Today
The Worldwide Cosmetics Market 1993 – 2009
Average annual growth rate + 4.2%
Source: L’Oreal estimates, September 2010

5. Market Structure and Size
Source: L’Oreal, 2008

6. Top 10 Global Cosmetics Companies:
55% Total Market Sales55% Total Market Sales
Source: L’Oreal, June 2009

7. Main Business Segments
Source: L’Oreal estimates, 2008, excl. soap, toothpaste and razors

8. Defining Factors
l dExternal trade
R&D and Innovation
Advertising / sales ratio

9. An Industry Geared Toward Exports
Size of exports in € by country relative to the size of the domestic market (2006)
80%
90% EU27
US
50%
60%
70%
80%
Japan
China
Germany
30%
40%
50% France
UK
Italy
S i
0%
10%
20% Spain

10. Cosmetics Industry:
R & D d I tiR & D and Innovation
7,000
8,000
Progression in the number of patents published
5,000
6,000
China
Japan
2 000
3,000
4,000
Japan
US
EU27
0
1,000
2,000
0
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005
Source: European Patent Office (EPO)

11. Advertising Over Sales Ratio
25.00% Cosmetic advertising expenditure = $2.2 bn (2005)
15 00%
20.00%
25.00%
5 00%
10.00%
15.00%
0.00%
5.00%
c
d
y
s
n
e
r
e
cosm
etic
foodpharm
acy
w
ireless
m
m
unication
software
m
iconductorfeinsurance
p
com
m
sem
i
life
Advertising / sales ratio across different industries in the US (2005)

12. What Innovation?
What Technology?
Waterproof mascara that does not run
Anti-dandruff shampoos
Face powder that eliminates shiny skin
Light-reflecting pigments concealing
shadows under the eyes
Sun creams (protection against harmful
UV rays)
Self-tanning products

13. Today’s Brandsy
Are DefinedAre Defined
by
INNOVATION
(Handout p. 4)

14. Innovation:
from Science to Language
Language of Cosmetics
Lexical Syntactic Rhetorical
Loan words Present tenseLoan words
Neologisms
Verbs
Verbal
adjectives
Present tense
Active vs.
Passive Tone
Impersonal
Imperatives
Metaphors,
similes and
metonymy
Personificationadjectives
Buzzwords
Imperatives Personification
Superlatives

15. The Language of Cosmetics:
S i ifi T h i l Ad i i P h k?Scientific, Technical, Advertising or Patchwork?
(Handout p. 1)
i /
advertising
science /
technology

16. What Makes the Difference?
Lexical FeaturesLexical Features
Borrowings Neologisms Buzzwords
&
catchphrases
Role of verbs
catchphrases

17. Loan Words in Translation:
Intentional StrategyIntentional Strategy
1 From another language (culturally bound1. From another language (culturally-bound
concepts difficult to translate)
Last resort for want of a better solution or
preserving elements of SL culture
-> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage,
camouflage makeup, fondant (*)
2. From another field of expertise
Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):y ( )
The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna
(gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical
process an unknown concept)process, an unknown concept)
-> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress

18. e “Fondant”
B tt lt i hi
bsite
Buttery, meltaway, vanishing,
rich and creamy, divinely
luscious, luxurious, sumptuous?
MAT‐CHRONO
web
, , p
Moisturizing emulsion
Enriched with moisturizing and instant‐
any
action mattifying agents, this astonishingly
fresh‐textured, fondant emulsion leaves
skin looking ideally shine‐free and feeling
moisturized from the moment of
ompa
moisturized from the moment of
application. Soft‐focus pigments work to
conceal the appearance of skin
irregularities. The skin’s texture looks more
UKco
refined.
http://www.lierac.com/UK/products/face/hydration/mat-chrono_hydrationanti-shine/moisturizingemulsion.html
U

20. e
Mat‐Chrono Émulsion
bsite
Moisturizing Emulsion
web
Exclusively formulated to prevent and
treat shiny skin and enlarged pores,
this cream for day time contains a
anyw
y
Triple Action Complex that improves
skin’s elasticity, regulates the t‐zone
and tightens pores. Oil‐Free.
ompa
$44.00 1.42 OZ
USco
http://www.lierac-usa.com/Products/Mat-Chrono%20Emulsion.aspx
U

21. Linguistic Mutation or
Frenglish / Denglish / Spanglish?
Language evolves
over time as usage
hchanges.
“... many
borrowings enter a
language throughlanguage through
translation...” *
* Vinay & Darbelnet (1958)

22. Loan Words in Translation:
Intentional StrategyIntentional Strategy
1. From another language (culturally-bound
concepts difficult to translate)
Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving
elements of SL cultureelements of SL culture
-> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage,
camouflage makeup, fondant
2. From another field of expertise
Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):
The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna
(gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical
process an unknown concept)process, an unknown concept)
-> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress

23. Aquacurrent Science by P&G
-
Aquacurrent Science: Moving Moisture Where It's Needed.
Water is the universal solvent - central to life on earth and
essential to overall health, beauty and wellness. While skin
care and hair care products have traditionally focused on
"locking-in" water moisture, the recent discovery of micro-
channels underneath the skin's surface underscores the
importance of releasing and channeling water to maintain
healthy skin.
Th N b l P i i i di f i t i i ti f tiThe Nobel Prize-winning discovery of aquaporins, proteins consisting of tiny
micro-channels embedded in the skin cell walls underneath the skin's surface, is
providing scientists with a new and better target to retain and enhance moisture
in the skin.
Aquacurrent Science, inspired by the discovery of aquaporins, is the basis of
unique product formulations that utilize the natural properties of water to help
move moisture where it's needed for the best possible results. Click below to learn
b t li ti f thi i ti imore about applications of this innovative science.
http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/aquacurrents.html
=

24. Aquaporin Technology by DIOR
Dior adds a luxurious helping hand to dry, parched skin with their legendaryDior adds a luxurious helping hand to dry, parched skin with their legendary
HydrAction Collection—the ultimate moisturizing arsenal for normal, dry, and
combination skin. From sorbet‐light crèmes to effective refining treatments,
Dior's skin‐soothing secret weapon—Aquacapt™ Complex—helps reinforce g p q p p p
your complexion's natural moisture reserves to keep it feeling soft and hydrated
all day long.

25. 5 phrases for talking about HYDRACTION ?
Activity
2003 Aquaporin 2005
21 3
in 1 second, encourages the passage
of 1 billion water molecules
4 5
ON THE SURFACE:
Immediate hydration
INTENSE AND ACTIVE HYDRATION TEST RESULTS
after only 1 application to the skin
+ 77% in immediate hydration
4 5
DEEP WITHIN:
Long-term hydration
y
The cells are brimming with moisture
Water circulation is activated
77% y
+ 30% in 24-hour
hydration
D h d ti li di th ki
Water circulation is activated,
skin replenished with moisture
Dehydration lines disappear, the skin
feels suppler, refreshed, plumper, more
luminous and comfortable.

26. Loan Words:
Borrowed from Science
i i • hydratemoisturize
• exfoliatescrub
• regeneraterevitalize
dehydration, keratinization, detoxification, hyperpigmentation,
comedogenicity, post‐inflammatory response, phototoxic g y, p f y p , p
reaction, free radicals, antioxidants, trophicity, dystrophy,
collagen synthesis, cellular metabolism, lipolysis, lipogenesis,
sebum secretion enzymatic trigger glycation keratolyticsebum secretion, enzymatic trigger, glycation, keratolytic,
extracellular matrix, dermis, epidermis, stratum corneum, etc.

27. Calques
Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):
A special kind of borrowing, resulting in either:
• A lexical calque (borrowed word translated
literally): d ti ti l ttifliterally): dermocosmetics, cosmeceuticals, mattify,
photo‐aging (short for photo‐induced aging), de‐stress,
de‐wrinkle...
• A structural calque (borrowed expression
with each of its elements translated into TL):
optical corrector pigments (pigments correcteurs optiques, Nuxe),
head note (also: top note), heart note (also: middle note),
palpate and roll massage (palper rouler) external aggressionspalpate and roll massage (palper rouler), external aggressions
(stress factors), cosmeto‐clinical trial, barrier function, ...

28. Calques: Examples
de-stress (FR: déstresser):
“Elemis Soothing Chamomile Cleanser is a hypoallergenic,
cooling, cleansing milk that removes impurities and make-up
whilst calming and de-stressing the most sensitive skins.
It i f l t d ith h i i t t f G Ch ilIt is formulated with harmonizing extracts of German Chamomile
that soothe and de-stress the skin. Good for extra sensitive,
delicate and hormonal skin.”
de-wrinkle (FR: dérider):
“L’Oréal Dermo Expertise Age Perfect Cleansing Milkp g g
Enriched with magnesium, known for its revitalizing properties
and vitamin C known for its energizing properties, the formula:
--Helps to de-wrinkle the skin and reduce the signs of fatigue in
mature skin.
--Hydrates the skin”

29. The Alternative: ParaphrasingThe Alternative: Paraphrasing
FR: décongestionner eliminate / remove / clear
embedded impurities and
toxins, calm swollen areas
FR: désincruster deep-cleanse (unclog the pores)
FR: défatiguer revitalize invigorate stimulateFR: défatiguer revitalize, invigorate, stimulate
FR:
dé i filt li i t fl id ddésinfiltrer eliminate excess fluids, reduce
dégonfler puffiness, reduce edema/swelling
désengorger by improved re-absorption and
drainer drainage of retained liquids and
toxins, calm swollen areas (Nuxe)

30. Neologisms:
N W d F i / N M iNew Word Formations / New Meaning
“newly coined lexical units or existing lexical units
that acquire a new sense” (Newmark, 2001:140)
Established: moisturizer / concealer
i i i iMore recent coinages: bronzer, volumizer, luminizer /
luminizing (YSL), highlighter, complexion-brightener
(Dior), booster, corrector, crepiness, glide-on, youth( ), , , p , g , y
grafter (Helena Rubinstein) cosmeceuticals,
nanoparticulate, MYO-aging (L'Oréal), photoaging,
dermobiotic (LRP) Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid or LHA (LRP fordermobiotic (LRP), Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid or LHA (LRP for
capryloyl salicylic acid)

31. Creative Compounding:
E i U i E li h Ad i i LExtensive Use in English Advertising Language
body enhancing body sculptingbody-enhancing, body-sculpting,
body-contouring, figure-slimming, FR: amincissant
skin-tensing, slimming
shine‐free
acne‐prone
bring‐along
take‐anywhere
wrinkle‐filling
film‐formingacne prone
(instead of acneic)
longer‐lasting
quick absorbing
take anywhere
on‐the‐go
(FR: nomade)
radiance boosting
film forming
(= filmogenic)
pick‐me‐up
(noun and adj)quick‐absorbing
brush‐on
must‐have
radiance‐boosting
skin‐lifting
pore‐clarifying
(noun and adj)
touch‐up
fatigue‐busting
(déf )light‐reflecting,
natural‐looking
lipid‐replenishing
(FR: relipidant)
(défatiguant)

32. Brand-Specific Concepts:
Translating brand-specific concepts = translating
a Question of “Corporate Culture”
a s a g b a d spec c co cep s a s a g
culture-specific concepts (CSCs)
Possibilities:
Paraphrase: explain the meaning of the SL
expression instead of translating it
Modulation: use a TL term that seems similar to
or has the same "relevance" as the SL term
Loan / borrowing: preserve the SL term intact
Neologism: make up a new word

33. The Never-Ending Struggle:
Finding the Right Balance
(Handout p 5)
Venuti (1995):
To domesticate or to foreignize?
(Handout p. 5)
To domesticate or to foreignize?
“peau intolérante”
hypersensitive hypersensitive
i t l ti t l tskin skin intolerant
skin
intolerant
skin

35. The Never-Ending Struggle:
Finding the Right Balance
Venuti (1995):
To domesticate or to foreignize?
“fixer la lumière”
reflect lightreflect lightreflect lightreflect light
hold lighthold light

36. « Chaque harmonie se compose de six teintes, parmi trois
familles de couleurs, spécifiquement choisies pour recréer un
éclat sur mesure :
-- Des couleurs correctrices pastel pour rectifier la tonalité de la
peau. Le vert atténue le trop de rose des teints clairs ; le rose
dé i l t i t t l bl déj it l t i t f ti é ldégrise les teints ternes ; le bleu déjaunit les teints fatigués ; le
mauve fixe la lumière et éclaircit les zones d’ombres de tous les
teints. »
“Each color harmony is comprised of six shades, from three
different color families, which were specially chosen to recreate
customized radiance:
- Corrective pastel colors to even out skin tone. Green diminishes
the excessive pink hue in fair skin; pink adds a healthy glow to a
dull complexion; blue takes the yellow tone out of tired skin;
mauve reflects / sets or holds light and adds brightness tomauve reflects / sets or holds light and adds brightness to
shadowed areas in all complexions.”

37. Brand-Specific Choices:
Combinations vs. Consistency
puffiness
and swelling puffy bags
under eyes
g
dark
[ (under)eye ]
under eyes
[ (under)eye ]
circles /
shadows
puffy,
undereye
bags
baggy eyes

38. Buzzwords and Catchphrases:
Dynamic Equivalence in ActionDynamic Equivalence in Action
Translation approach based on the “principle of
equivalent effect” and tailoring the message to the
receptor’s linguistic needs and cultural expectations
anti-aging: age-decelerating (Clinique),
receptor s linguistic needs and cultural expectations…
(Nida, 1964)
anti aging: age decelerating (Clinique),
age-defying, age-reversing, age-perfecting,
age-deflecting, de-aging
anti-aging, the Baby Boomer version:
pro-youth, pro-age, preserving, image
extending, youth extending

39. orDioebyViede’OrL

40. Product Benefits and Results:
V b d V b l Adj tiVerbs and Verbal Adjectives
C t d t b d tC u stomers do n ot bu y a produ ct;
they buy the benefits and results it affords
them.“Up” verbs “Down”verbsUp verbs Down verbs
activate, boost, accelerate, energize reduce, diminish, lessen, decrease
ease, alleviate, soothe, appease, relieve attenuate, minimize, soften, eraseease, alleviate, soothe, appease, relieve attenuate, minimize, soften, erase
fortify, strengthen, nourish, nurture rid / free (the skin), eliminate, remove
stimulate, invigorate relax, de‐stress, de‐wrinkle
smooth, even out, plump up, firm mask, hide, conceal, disguise,
improve, enhance, emphasize fight, combat, battle
illuminate, brighten, suffuse with… de‐emphasize

41. Product Benefits and Results:
V b d V b l Adj ti
V b ith th fi
Verbs and Verbal Adjectives
Verbs with the prefix –re (intention to produce a better result):
r e d e s i g n t h e f a c i a l o u t l i n e s
r e s t r u c t u r e t h e i n t e r c e l l u l a r c e m e n t ,
r e p l e n i s h m o i s t u r e r e s e r v e s ,
r e n e w c o l l a g e n f i b e r sr e n e w c o l l a g e n f i b e r s ,
r e j u v e n a t e ,
r e a c t i v a t e t h e s k i n ’ s r e p a i r p r o c e s s ,
r e t e x t u r i z e / r e f i n i s h t h e s k i n ’ s s u r f a c e ,
r e f i n e t h e s k i n ’ s t e x t u r e ,
r e g e n e r a t e d a m a g e d c e l l s ,
r e b a l a n c e d e e p h y d r a t i o n ,

42. Product Benefits and Results:
Verbs and Verbal Adjectives
Participal/verbal adjectives
(same form as the participle of a verb)
‐ing (properties/qualities): relaxing, stimulating, invigorating,
exfoliating, nourishing, deep-cleansing, brightening, whitening,
skin-lifting, pore-clarifying…
‐ed (beauty results): relaxed, stimulated, reinvigorated,ed (beauty results): relaxed, stimulated, reinvigorated,
exfoliated, lifted, plumped up, enhanced in appearance,
replenished…

43. Spotlight on
Adjectives and Adverbs:
E t i fExtensive use of:
Evaluative /comparative adjectives:
“For the first time, there’s a remarkable gel that can give your hair
any look you want – sleeker, fuller, straighter, curlier, more
natural even wet without a drop of alcohol or oil ”natural, even wet – without a drop of alcohol or oil.”
Adverbs (adjective or verb modifiers):
th hl i t i d / id ll h d t d ki f ll l t dthoroughly moisturized / ideally hydrated skin, carefully selected
ingredients, expertly formulated skin care products, beautifully
youthful complexion, lastingly nourished, flawlessly smoothed,youthful complexion, lastingly nourished, flawlessly smoothed,
intensely replenished, genuinely more even-toned, etc.

44. Terminology Choices (Register)
Distinguishing features of language associated with
variations in context and relating to the language
user (jargon) and/or language use:
1. field = subject matter
2 t it d l ti hi2. tenor = writer-reader relationship
3. mode = formal/informal
efficacy (FR: efficacité) effectiveness
technicity (FR: technicité) technical expertise
technical sophisticationtechnical sophistication
superfatting extra rich,
(FR: agent surgraissant, high-lipid,
gel surgras) lipid-enriched

45. What Makes the Difference?
For Future DiscussionFor Future Discussion…
Syntactic Features
Present Imperative Avoidance Ellipsis
Syntactic Features
Present
tense,
active
Imperative,
interrogative
and cond.
Avoidance
of
negatives
Ellipsis
(elliptical
sentences)
voice sentences

46. What Makes the Difference?
For Future DiscussionFor Future Discussion…
Rhetorical Features
M t h P ifi ti S l ti E h i
Rhetorical Features
Metaphor,
simile,
metonymy
Personification Superlatives
(hyperbole)
Euphemisms,
semantic
ambiguitymetonymy ambiguity

47. Thank you for your attention!
Agnes Meilhac
www.beautyterm.com