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COURSE-‐B.DES
(FASHION
DESIGN)

COURSE
CODE-‐
B.DES
(FD)

SUBJECT
HEAD
ACCESSORY
DESIGN
MODE
OF
STUDY

SUBJECT
CODE
BFD(504)
PRACTICAL

ACCESSORY
DESIGN

B.Design
in
Fashion-‐
3rd

year

Students
Course
compiled
by
Mr.
Tamoghna
Mandal

Senior,
Faculty
Fashion
Design
Department

STUDENT’S
LEARNING
BOOKLET

FDDI

MINISTRY
OF
COMMERCE
&
INDUSTRY

GOVERNMENT
OF
INDIA

A-‐10/A,
SECTOR-‐24,
NOIDA-‐201301

Copy
Right
Reserved

(For
private
circulation
only)

Free
Student’s
Course
Material
(Not
for
Sale)

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CONTENTS-‐

_________________________________________

UNIT1.

JEWELLERY………………………………………………………………….1-‐20

UNIT2.

BAGS…………………………………………………………………………21-‐39

UNIT3.
SHOES………………………………………………………………………..40-‐52

UNIT4.

BELTS…………………………………………………………………………53-‐
74

UNIT5.
SCARVES…………………………………………………………………….
75-‐82

UNIT6.
DESIGN
RESEARCH
AND
MARKET
SURVEY……………………83-‐84

UNIT7.
EXPERIMENT
WITH
MATERIAL
AND
FINAL
CONCEPT……85-‐87

UNIT8.
SAMPLE
RESEARCH
AND
SURFACE
ORNAMENTATION….88

UNIT9.
MERCHANDISE
INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY…………..89

______________________________________

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UNIT
1
JEWELERY

Jewelery
Amber pendants wheat grain shaped jewelry burnt clay Indian jewelry( terracotta)
FIG1.1 – Pictures showing different forms of 19th
century jewelry.
Jewelery consists of small decorative items worn for personal adornment, such as brooches,
rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets. Jewelery may be attached to the body or the clothes, and
the term is restricted to durable ornaments, excluding flowers for example. For many centuries
metal, often combined with gemstones, has been the normal material for jewelry, but other
materials such as shells and other plant materials may be used. It is one of the oldest types of
archaeological artifact – with 100,000-year-old beads made from Nassarius shells thought to be
the oldest known jewelry The basic forms of jewelry vary between cultures but are often
extremely long-lived; in European cultures the most common forms of jewelry listed above have
persisted since ancient times, while other forms such as adornments for the nose or ankle,
important in other cultures, are much less common. Historically, the most widespread influence
on jewelry in terms of design and style has come from Asia.
Jewellery may be made from a wide range of materials. Gemstones and similar materials such as
amber and coral, precious metals, beads, and shells have been widely used, and enamel has often
been important. In most cultures jewellery can be understood as a status symbol, for its material
properties, its patterns, or for meaningful symbols. Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly
every body part, from hairpins to toe rings, and even genital jewellery. The patterns of wearing
jewellery between the sexes, and by children and older people can vary greatly between cultures,
but adult women have been the most consistent wearers of jewellery; in modern European

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culture the amount worn by adult males is relatively low compared with other cultures and other
periods in European culture.
The word jewellery itself is derived from the word jewel, which was anglicized from the Old
French "jouel" and beyond that, to the Latin word "jocale", meaning plaything. However, in
North America, the more common spelling is "jewelry," and although both spellings appear in
Canadian English, jewelry prevails by a two to one margin. In addition, "jewel," not "Jewell," is
the standard spelling in all forms of English.

Materials
and
methods

In creating jewellery, gemstones, coins, or other precious items are often used, and they are
typically set into precious metals. Alloys of nearly every metal known have been encountered in
jewellery. Bronze, for example, was common in Roman times. Modern fine jewellery usually
includes gold, white gold, platinum, palladium, titanium, or silver. Most contemporary gold
jewellery is made of an alloy of gold, the purity of which is stated in karats, indicated by a
number followed by the letter K. American gold jewellery must be of at least 10K purity (41.7%
pure gold), (though in the UK the number is 9K (37.5% pure gold) and is typically found up to
18K (75% pure gold). Higher purity levels are less common with alloys at 22 K (91.6% pure
gold), and 24 K (99.9% pure gold) being considered too soft for jewellery use in America and
Europe. These high purity alloys, however, are widely used across Asia, the Middle East and
Africa. Platinum alloys range from 900 (90% pure) to 950 (95.0% pure). The silver used in
jewellery is usually sterling silver, or 92.5% fine silver. In costume jewellery, stainless steel
findings are sometimes used.

FIG
1.2
Showing
Bead
embroidery
design.

Other commonly used materials include glass, such as fused-glass or enamel; wood, often carved
or turned; shells and other natural animal substances such as bone and ivory; natural clay;
polymer clay; Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create jewellery that has more of
a natural feel. However, any inclusion of lead or lead solder will give an English Assay office
(the building which gives English jewellery its stamp of approval, the Hallmark) the right to
destroy the piece; however it is very rare for the assay office to do so.

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Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass, gemstones, metal, wood,
shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded jewellery commonly encompasses necklaces, bracelets,
earrings, belts and rings. Beads may be large or small; the smallest type of beads used is known
as seed beads, these are the beads used for the "woven" style of beaded jewellery. Another use of
seed beads is an embroidery technique where seed beads are sewn onto fabric backings to create
broad collar neck pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a popular type of handwork
during the Victorian era, is enjoying a renaissance in modern jewellery making. Beading, or
beadwork, is also very popular in many African and indigenous North American cultures.
Silversmiths, goldsmiths, and lapidaries methods include forging, casting, soldering or welding,
cutting, carving and "cold-joining" (using adhesives, staples and rivets to assemble parts).
Diamonds

Fig
1.3:
Picture
showing
uncut
single
piece
diamonds.
The
shine
and
clarity
is
to
be
noted.

Diamond

Diamonds were first mined in India. Pliny may have mentioned them, although there is some
debate as to the exact nature of the stone he referred to as Adamas; In 2005, Australia, Botswana,
Russia and Canada ranked among the primary sources of gemstone diamond production.
The British crown jewels contain the Cullinan Diamond, part of the largest gem-quality rough
diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 carats (621.35 g).
Now popular in engagement rings, this usage dates back to the marriage of Maximilian I to Mary
of Burgundy in 1477.

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Other
gemstones

Many precious and semiprecious stones are used for jewellery. Among them are:
Amber

Amber, an ancient organic gemstone, is composed of tree resin that has hardened over time. The
stone must be at least one million years old to be classified as amber, and some amber can be up
to 120 million years old.
Amethyst
Amethyst has historically been the most prized gemstone in the quartz family. It is treasured for
its purple hue, which can range in tone from light to dark.
Fig 1.3 showing Spanish emerald and gold pendant at Victoria and Albert Museum.
Emerald
Emeralds are one of the three main precious gemstones (along with rubies and sapphires) and are
known for their fine green to bluish green colour. They have been treasured throughout history,
and some historians report that the Egyptians mined emerald as early as 3500 BC.
Jade
Jade is most commonly associated with the colour green but can come in a number of other colors
as well. Jade is closely linked to Asian culture, history, and tradition, and is sometimes referred to
as the stone of heaven.
Jasper
Jasper is a gemstone of the chalcedony family that comes in a variety of colors. Often, jasper will
feature unique and interesting patterns within the colored stone. Picture jasper is a type of jasper
known for the colours (often beiges and browns) and swirls in the stone’s pattern.

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Quartz
Quartz refers to a family of crystalline gemstones of various colours and sizes. Among the well-
known types of quartz are rose quartz (which has a delicate pink colour), and smoky quartz
(which comes in a variety of shades of translucent brown). A number of other gemstones, such as
Amethyst and Citrine, are also part of the quartz family. Rutilated quartz is a popular type of
quartz containing needle-like inclusions.
Ruby
Rubies are known for their intense red colour and are among the most highly valued precious
gemstones. Rubies have been treasured for millennia. In Sanskrit, the word for ruby is ratnaraj,
meaning king of precious stones.
Sapphire
The most popular form of sapphire is blue sapphire, which is known for its medium to deep blue
colour and strong saturation. Fancy sapphires of various colours are also available. In the United
States, blue sapphire tends to be the most popular and most affordable of the three major precious
gemstones (emerald, ruby, and sapphire).
Turquoise
Turquoise is found in only a few places on earth, and the world’s largest turquoise producing
region is the southwest United States. Turquoise is prized for its attractive colour, most often an
intense medium blue or a greenish blue, and its ancient heritage. Turquoise is used in a great
variety of jewellery styles. It is perhaps most closely associated with southwest and Native
American jewellery, but it is also used in many sleek, modern styles. Some turquoise contains a
matrix of dark brown markings, which provides an interesting contrast to the gemstone’s bright
blue colour.
Some gemstones (like pearls, coral, and amber) are classified as organic, meaning that they are
produced by living organisms. Others are inorganic, meaning that they are generally composed
of and arise from minerals.
Some gems, for example, amethyst, have become less valued as methods of extracting and
importing them have progressed. Some man-made gems can serve in place of natural gems, such
as cubic zirconium, which can be used in place of diamond.[13]

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Metal
finishes

Fig
1.4
showing
an
example
of
gold
plated
jewellery

For platinum, gold, and silver jewellery, there are many techniques to create finishes. The most
common are high-polish, satin/matte, brushed, and hammered. High-polished jewellery is the
most common and gives the metal a highly reflective, shiny look. Satin or matte finish reduces
the shine and reflection of the jewellery, and this is commonly used to accentuate gemstones
such as diamonds. Brushed finishes give the jewellery a textured look and are created by
brushing a material (similar to sandpaper) against the metal, leaving "brush strokes." Hammered
finishes are typically created by using a rounded steel hammer and hammering the jewellery to
give it a wavy texture.
Some jewellery is plated to give it a shiny, reflective look or to achieve a desired colour. Sterling
silver jewellery may be plated with a thin layer of 0.999 fine silver (a process known as flashing)
or may be plated with rhodium or
Jewelry
Manufacturing

Today jewelry is crafted using the traditional method of simple tools and skilled fingers to
modern tools and hi tech means. The flow of ideas and the wide range of designs offer this
choice. Mass production or made to order is the other factor in choosing a particular method of
production. Here is an attempt to bring to the reader a comprehensive idea about jewelry
manufacturing.
I am sure many of you wonder at the marvels, beauty and workmanship of their favorite piece of
jewellery. Many questions might spring to mind, wondering how the delicate design was created
or the gem set? What makes the jewellery strong? Who are these artisans who wield their art
with such aplomb creating intricate piece de resistance' with impudence? Making jewellery is
definitely not a cake walk. Time, technology and experience have contributed to strengthening
the art of jewellery manufacturing. When early man began wearing jewellery fashioned out of
stones, bones or any attractive material that caught the eye he hammered, pounded, chiseled and
rubbed to get the required shape and size. As man matured and ideas grew, new techniques

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developed to capture his imagination in a world of gold, gems and glitter. From simple discs to
3D designs were woven with the help of tools and technology.
Today jewellery is crafted using the traditional method of simple tools and skilled fingers to
modern tools and hi tech means. The flow of ideas and the wide range of designs offer this
choice. Mass production or made to order is the other factor in choosing a particular method of
production. Here is an attempt to bring to the reader a comprehensive idea about jewellery
manufacturing.
REASONS FOR WEARING JEWELLRY
• It is functional, generally to fix clothing or hair in place, or to tell the time (in the case of
watches)
• It works as a mark of social status and personal status, as with a wedding ring
• It also signifies some form of affiliation, whether ethnic, religious or social
• It sometimes helps us to provide talismanic protection (in the form of amulets)
• It portrays a form of artistic display
• It acts as a carrier or symbol of personal meaning - such as love, mourning or luck.
TYPES OF JEWELLRY
Jewelry
can
be
classified
in
a
number
of
ways.

On
the
basis
of
the
material
used

Diamond Jewelry
-‐
Diamonds
may
be
worn
in
all
sorts
of
jewelry,
including
rings,
bracelets,
necklaces

and
earrings.

Pearl Jewellry
-‐
Pearls
from
freshwater,
the
sea
or
cultured
can
be
made
into
earrings,
necklaces,

bracelets
and
more.

Fig
1.5
to
1.1.10
showing
all
types
of
jewelry
as
a
fashion
accessories.

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Gold Jewelry
-‐
In
natural
State
its
bright
yellow
metal
and
is
extremely
soft.
So
it
is
always
mixed
with

other
metals
for
commercial
purposes.
Four
types
of
Gold
Jewelry-‐:

Karat
Gold-‐
To
consider
a
karat
gold
at
least
10
k
of
gold
in
an
alloy.
The
most
costly.24
karat
is
pure

gold.14
karat
means
14
parts
of
gold
and
10
parts
of
other
metal.

Gold
filled-‐
A
thin
sheet
of
gold
is
rolled
and
then
adhered
to
the
base
metal.
The
amount
of
gold
has
to

be
1/20
of
the
total
weight
of
the
item.

Rolled
gold
plate-‐
Similar
to
gold
filled
but
the
amount
of
gold
in
an
alloy
is
much
less;
almost
/40
of
the

total
metal’s
weight.

Electroplated
gold-‐
Any
inexpensive
jewelry
if
requires
a
shiny
look
then
a
fine
gold
surface
very
thin
in

context
is
electroplated
and
passed
over
in
the
surface
of
the
metal
to
give
a
gold
like
golden
yellowish

look
which
might
wear
away
within
few
months.

Silver Jewelry
–
It
is
white
and
relatively
low
cost
than
gold
but
very
valuable
and
precious.
It’s

alloyed
with
copper
and
gets
the
name
sterling
silver.
For
less
costly
designs,
silver
also
gets

electroplated.
For
sterling
silver
the
alloy
must
contain
925
parts
of
silver
and
75
parts
of
copper.

Gemstone Jewelry -‐
Jewelry
with
colored
stones
that
are
not
diamonds.
This
may
include
precious

and
semi-‐precious

Bead
Jewelry-‐Bead
art
in
India
is
five
thousand
year
old
and
dates
back
to
the
time
of
Indus
Valley

Civilization.
People
of
that
civilization
used
to
make
beads
out
of
gold,
silver,
copper,
clay,
ivory
and

even
wood.
The
excavated
carried
out
there
came
out
with
finished
and
unfinished
beads
from
the
site.

Filigree
Jewelry:
Filigree
work
is
done
on
silver
and
involves
lots
of
precision
and
technicality,
added

with
great
amount
of
patience
and
an
eye
for
minute
details.
Historically,
filigree
work
was
quite

popular
in
countries
like
Egypt,
Italy,
and
Spain.
India's
history
of
filigree
work
goes
back
to
early

centuries.

Ivory
Jewelry:
Jewelry
that
is
made
from
the
tusk
of
an
elephant
is
called
ivory
jewelry.
Importance
of

ivory
jewelry
can
be
guessed
from
the
fact
that
in
Gujarat,
the
bride
receives
an
ivory
bangle
from
her

family
just
before
marriage
as
jewelry.
During
marriage
ceremony
wearing
of
ivory
bangles
is
must
for

bride.

Jadau
Jewelry:
Jadau
Jewelry
forms
one
of
the
major
examples
of
high
skilled
craftsmanship
that
was

brought
into
India
by
Mughals.
Historically
speaking,
the
tradition
of
Jadau
work
has
been
in
practice
in

the
states
of
Rajasthan
and
Gujarat
since
the
Mughal
era.
Jadau
jewellery
is
also
called
engraved

jewelry.

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Kundan
Jewelry:
During
Mughal
period,
the
art
of
kundan
work
reached
Rajasthan
from
Delhi.
Later
on,

craftsmen
from
the
different
part
of
the
country
migrated
to
the
place
and
made
Rajasthan
a
hub
of

Kundankari.
Rulers
and
feudal
lords
gave
patronage
to
the
art
and
it
developed
into
perfection.

Lac Jewelry:
Lac
jewelry,
also
known
as
lacquer
jewelry,
originated
in
Rajasthan
and
has
gained

considerable
popularity
in
India
today.
Lac
jewelry
is
available
in
versatile
designs,
which
add
to
its

beauty.
Among
the
various
items
in
lac
jewelry,
the
bangles
need
a
special
mention.

Meenakari Jewelry:
In
Meenakari
jewelry,
precious
stones
are
set
and
then
enameled
with
gold.

Historically
speaking,
the
art
was
introduced
to
Rajasthan
artisans
by
Raja
Mansingh
of
Amer.
He
invited

Lahore-‐based
skilled
artisans
to
his
kingdom,
and
their
intermingling
with
the
locals
craftsmen
resulted

in
an
amalgam.

Navratna
Jewelry:
In
Navratna
jewelry,
nine
auspicious
stones
are
used
in
a
single
ornament.
The
belief

behind
this
is
that
the
nine
stones
together
ensure
well
being
of
the
person
who
wears
it.
In
India,

Navratna
jewelry
has
been
given
major
importance,
because
of
its
astrological
significance
as
well
as
its

innate
charm.

Fig
1.15
to
Fig
1.20
showing
all
fashion
jewelry
of
kundan,
lac,
glass
and
jadau.

On
the
basis
of
the
usage

Fashion Jewelry
–
It
is
not
always
the
highest
of
quality;
fashion
jewellry
makes
a
statement
and
is

typically
lower
cost.

Costume Jewelry
-‐
This
type
of
jewelry
is
worn
to
be
fancy
at
grander
events
and
occasions.
Usually

more
gaudy
or
ornate.

Traditional jewelry

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Bridal Jewelry
–
This
jewelry
type
just
for
the
wedding,
specifically.
Usually,
this
is
a
matching

necklace
and
earring
set.

Vintage Jewelry
–
This
vintage
jewelry
could
include
costume
or
any
type
of
heirloom
or
antique

pieces.

Methods
used
in
Jewelry
manufacturing

Methods that are typically used to make jewellery from gold and silver and its alloys are
Investment Casting, Die casting, cattle fish casting and hand fabrication. Many jewelers use
CAD/CAM to make jewellery. CAD computer aided designs and CAM i.e. computer aided
manufacturing to reproduce a model piece of jewellery that can be mass produced. Making
jewellery requires knowledge and expertise in gold smiting, stonecutting, engraving, mold
making, fabrication, wax carving, lost wax casting, electroplating, forging, and polishing. These
are the various steps needed to make jewellery. The first step in making a detailed piece is
making of a mold.
Mould

Jewellery making begins with a mould. A mould is the exact and perfect replica of the piece to
be made, copied either from a design or a piece/object. A mould is shaped around the
shape/figure with the help of casting process. The casting process involves a number of steps.
There are two methods of casting, investment casting or die casting each with its own
advantages.
Investment
Casting

Investment Casting is also called 'lost wax casting' since the wax is removed by heating in a kiln
or in an autoclave. It is the earliest metal technique evolved by mankind and has a history of
4,000 years. Believed to have been developed by the Mesopotamians, it remains the most
popular process of making gold (metal) jewellery and forms the basis of modern investment
casting process. This process involves dipping a mold into a ceramic mix. Sometimes new
materials like plastic or polystyrene foam is used instead of wax. This process has a number of
steps involved.
• A primary model is made in hard alloy like nickel silver or just silver.
• A rubber model is made by surrounding this primary model, using sheet rubber in a mold frame.
It is then vulcanized by placing it in a heated press. On cooling, it is cut with a scalpel into halves
or more and removing the primary model.
• This rubber mold is used to make many copies of the primary model on wax.
• Molten wax is then introduced into the mold cavity by using a wax injector. On cooling the wax
is removed to get an exact copy of the primary model in wax.
• After the desired number of models has been made the waxes are arranged in a tree all around a
central feeder in the casting machine. The central feeder is also called sprue. The tree placed in a
metal cylinder called flask.

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• A special mixture called investment plaster is mixed with water to form a thick liquid and poured
over the tree covering the wax models. Low vacuum removes air bubbles and then this is allowed
to cool and harden to form stiff and sturdy molds.
• Then the flask is inverted and placed in a kiln/furnace. The wax is melted by steam or air to
remove all the wax. The furnace is set in stages and the maximum temperature reached is 750
degrees centigrade. The melting process takes about 12 to 16 hours. This melting down of the
wax is called the 'lost wax process'.
• The wax is slowly melted and drained out completely and all that is left behind is the investment
plaster mold and this will now be used to pour the required molten metal (to be cased) into.

• The casting process begins by putting the flask in a casting machine. The gold metal or its alloy is
melted and then cast into the investment mold. Then it is allowed to cool and solidify.
• After it has cooled down completely it is immersed into cold water which breaks off the
investment mold, leaving the casts in the tree. The casting are cut off and then made into
jewellery pieces which will then be polished into completion.
Two types of casting machines are used the centrifugal casting machine which is the older
technique or the modern technique of static vacuum assist machines.
Advantages
of
investment
casting

It is an age old proven method. It allows the jeweler flexibility to create complex designs. The
details can be copied perfectly. The control of color is better. The finished product can be highly
polished. It results in very fine surface finish. The metallurgical properties are also excellent.
Disadvantages
of
investment
casting

This process can result in porosity. Also the dimensions may not be as accurate as the die struck
method. This process can and is used for almost all gold jewellery and remains a favorite with
jewelers even after 6,000 years later!
Die
struck
method

Die struck method is a casting method where the metal to be cast is forced under pressure into a
mold which is usually made out of metal. This is a bona fide method of producing complex
shapes. The earliest recorded history of die casting by pressure occurred in 1800's. Using a
plunger or compressed air, molten metal is forced into a metallic die and the pressure is
maintained until the metal settles and solidifies.
The pressure reaches 25 tons per square inch. The intense pressure causes the atoms in the metal
to move closer together and solidify to form dies or molds. Using compressed sheet metal and
steel dies mountings are formed with metal parts mechanically stamped out. Each part is
matched and fitted into the correct portion of halved die and stamped and shaped. A hydraulic
press is used.

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Various
methods
of
cuttings
tools
of
stones
and
process
of
carvings
of
floral
design
being
displayed
in

the
pictures
above.

In
the
above
picture,
cutting
into
desired
shape
has
been
shown
.In
the
adjacent
picture
a
lady

inspecting
and
sorting
stones
for
the
correct
choice
of
stone
setting.

In
the
above
picture
the
men
are
preparing
themselves
for
casting,
a
method
where
a
cast
and
mold
is

made
in
which
molten
metals
are
forced
in.
The
adjacent
picture
is
showing
a
lady
giving
shape
to
a

stones
to
enhance
beauty
and
sometimes
hide
imperfections
and
inclusions.

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Types
of
stone
setting

There are thousands of variations of setting styles, but there are several fundamental types:
Bezel
setting

A
bezel
set
sapphire

The earliest known technique of attaching stones to jewelry was bezel setting. A bezel is a strip
of metal bent into the shape and size of the stone and then soldered to the piece of jewelry. Then
the stone is inserted into the bezel and the metal rubbed over the stone, holding it in place. This
method works well for either cabochon or faceted stones.
Prong
setting

Prong
set
diamonds

Prong setting is the simplest and most common type of setting, largely because it uses the least
amount of metal to hold the stone, thus showing it off to its best advantage. Generally it is simply
some number of wires, called prongs, which are of a certain size and shape, arranged in a shape
and size to hold the given stone, and fixed at the base. Then a burr of the proper size, is used to
cut what is known as a "bearing", which is a notch that corresponds to the angles of the stone.
The burr most often used is called a "hart bur" that is angled and sized for the job of setting
diamonds. That bearing is cut equally into all of the prongs and at the same height above the
base. Then the stone is inserted so that it goes into all of the bearings, pliers or a pusher are used
to bend the prongs gently over the crown of the stone, and the tops of the prongs are clipped off
with snips, filed to an even height above the stone, and finished. Usually a "cup burr" is used to
give the prong a nice round tip. A cup burr is in the shape of a hemisphere with teeth on the
inside, for making rounded tips on wires and prongs. There are many variations of prong settings
including just two prongs, the common 4 prongs or up to 24 or more with many variations
involving decoration, size and shapes of the prongs themselves, and how they are fixed or used
in jewelry. But the method of setting is generally the same for all of them no matter how many
prongs are present.

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Channel
setting

Channel
set
diamonds

Channel setting is a method whereby stones are suspended between two bars or strips of metal,
called channels. Often when setting small stones and the bars go in a linear line with the design it
is called channel setting, and when the bars cross the lines of the design, it is called bar set. The
idea is the same, though. The channel is some variation of a "U" shape, with two sides and a
bottom. The sides are made just a bit narrower than the width of the stone or stones to be set, and
then, using the same burs as in prong setting, a small notch, which is again called a bearing, is
cut into each wall. The stone is put in place in those notches, and the metal on top is pushed
down, tightening the stone in place. The proper way to set a channel is to cut a notch for each
stone, but for cheaper production work sometimes a groove is cut along each channel. Also,
since the metal can be very stiff and strong, this is a situation where a reciprocating hammer,
which is like a jackhammer but jewelry sized, might be used to hammer down the metal, as it can
be difficult to do by hand. Then, as always, the metal is filed down and finished, and the inner
edge near the stones cleaned up and straightened as necessary. As with all jewelry, there can be
many variations of channel work. At times the walls will be raised—sometimes a center stone
will be set between two bars that rise high from the base ring—or the channel might just be cut
directly into some surface, making the stones flush with the metal. It is still channel setting,
though.
Bead
setting

Example
of
bead
set
diamonds

Example
of
pave
set
diamonds

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Bead setting is a generic term for setting a stone directly into metal using gravers, also called
burins, which are essentially tiny chisels. A hole is drilled directly into the metal surface, and
then a ball burr is used to make a concave depression just the size of the stone. Some setters will
set the stone into that concave depression, and some will use a hart burr to cut a bearing around
the edge. Then the stone is inserted into that space, and the gravers or burins are used to lift and
push a tiny bit of the metal into and over the edge of the stone. Then a beading tool, which is
simply a steel shaft with a concave dimple cut into the tip, is pushed onto the bit of metal,
rounding and smoothing it, pushing it firmly onto the stone, and creating a "bead". That is the
essential method, but there are many types of setting that use the technique. When many stones
are set in this fashion very closely together, about 1 millimeter apart covering a surface that is
called “pave”— from the French for paved or cobblestoned. When a long line is engraved into
the metal going up to each of the beads that is "star set", because of the look. The other common
usage is called "bead and bright", "grain setting" or "threading" in Europe, and other names at
times. This is when; after the stone is set as described above, the background metal around the
stone is cut away, usually in geometric shapes. In the end what is left is the stone with four beads
in a lowered box shape with an edge around it. Often it is a row of stones, so it will be in a long
shape with a raised edge and a row of stones and beads down the center. This type of setting is
still used often, but it was very common in the early to middle 20th century.
Burnish
setting

Fig
showing
Burnish
set
diamonds

Burnish setting, also sometimes referred to as flush setting, shot setting, or gypsy setting (The
term gypsy setting is used less often today because the word gypsy is seen as derogatory) is
similar to bead setting, but after the stone is inserted into the space, instead of using a graver to
lift beads, a burnishing tool is used to push the metal all around the stone. The stone will be
roughly flush with the surface, with a burnished or rubbed edge around it. This type of setting
has a long history but is gaining resurgence in contemporary jewelry. Sometimes the metal is
finished using sandblasting, as it shows off the work very well.

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This
hand
sketch
illustration
is
showing
the
details
effect
of
polished
diamond
inculcated
in
a
ring.

This
above
illustration
is
showing
6
different
types
of
Prong
settings.

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This
illustration
is
showing
diamond
setting
with
ring
attachment
and
different
stone
viability.

The
diagram
features
different
names
suggestion
for
different
settings
of
diamond
in
a
ring
of
gold
or

silver.

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EXERCISES

1. Design
5
jewellery
of
different
materials
and
color
it
appropriately.

2. List
10
best
national
and
International
jewellery
brands
and
write
a
brief
of
each
about

the
brand,
foundation,
turnover
and
sales
profit
with
its
tie
ups
and
branding

promotional
activities.

Review
questions

Q1.
What
are
Jewelries?
What
are
the
materials
and
methods
used
in
jewelry
making?

Q2.
Describe
5
gemstones
and
their
usage
for
jewelry
designing?

Q3.
Explain
5
different
types
of
Jewelry?

Q4.
What
is
Investment
jewelry?
What
are
the
advantage
and
disadvantage
of
investment
jewelry?

Q5.
What
are
the
different
types
of
Stone
cutting?

Q6
Explain
the
following
in
short
answers-‐:

1. Jadau
Jewelry

2. Prong
Setting

3. Burnish
setting

4. Die
–struck
method

5. Traditional
jewelry

6. Navaratna
jewelry

7. Diamonds

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UNIT
2
BAGS

A
handbag,
or
purse
in
American
English,
is
a
handled
medium-‐to-‐large
bag
that
is
often

fashionably
designed,
typically
used
by
women,
to
hold
personal
items
such
as
wallet/coins,

keys,
cosmetics,
a
hairbrush,
mobile
phone
etc.

Handbags
have
been
known
for
their
special
relation
to
women.
They
have
been
one
of
the
most

popular
and
are
often
used
accessories
of
women
even
before
old
times.
Handbags
are
not
only

considered
as
a
functional
item
that
help
them
carry
their
important
belongings,
but
women
consider

them
as
one
of
the
most
significant
preferences
in
succeeding
the
best
fashion
style
they
dreaming
of,

as
well.
The
purpose
of
Bags
has
exceeded
its
prime
purpose
of
convenience
and
fashion.
Bags
come
in

different
sizes,
giving
us
the
opportunity
to
bring
things
all
the
time.

As
an
accessory,
bags
can
totally
change
the
way
we
look
or
dress
for
a
certain
occasion.
Nowadays,

handbags
are
coming
out
with
plenty
varieties
of
styles
and
designs
to
choose
from.
Designers
are

making
various
creations
with
different
styles
and
designs
that
can
match
with
the
lifestyle
of
today's

savvy
women.
We
have
travel
bags,
baby
bags,
pet
bags,
school
bags,
formal
bags,
designer
bags,
school

bags,
and
many
more.
Not
all
handbags
are
created
equal
–
some
are
classics,
some
are
trendy,
some

are
practical,
some
are
simply
arm
candy.

You
can
flaunt
a
bag
to
manifest
your
cool
personality,
to

show
your
strong
attitude
or
even
to
complement
your
jovial
nature.
There
is
something
for
every

personality,
and
also
for
every
occasion.

Bags
are
one
of
the
most
essential
fashion
accessories
carried
by
a
woman,
every
woman
has
a
dream
to

carry
a
matching
hand
bag
with
her
dress
and
so,
hand
bags
are
found
in
various
styles
and
patterns
that

can
go
matching
with
any
kind
of
dress.
Bags
for
women
are
basically
to
carry
their
stuffs
in
a
more

convenient
way
while
some
of
them
carry
for
show.
Aside,
from
its
main
purpose
of
storage
and

portability,
bags
also
add
to
aesthetics.

A
number
of
European
manufacturers
have
long
histories
of
producing
leather
goods.
Some
were
made

by
famous
jewelry
companies
such
as
Tiffany
&
Co.
For
some
companies,
Gucci
and
Louis
Vuitton,

handbags
were
introduced
to
their
product
range
relatively
recently
in
their
history
but
for
others
like

H.J.
Cave
&
Sons,
they
have
been
around
almost
as
long
as
the
company.
Nonetheless,
handbags
are

among
their
best-‐known
products,
and
their
logos
are
recognized
in
many
countries
today.

The
most
expensive
of
the
luxury
handbags
are
made
by
Hermès.
Prices
start
at
$6000;
handbags
are

made
to
order,
and
the
waiting
lists
are
years
long.
Hermès
handbag
designs
carry
the
names
of

actresses,
socialites,
and
other
celebrities
who
were
frequently
photographed
with
a
particular
handbag,

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most
notably
the
"Birkin"
bag
named
after
Jane
Birkin,
and
the
"Kelly"
bag
named
after
Grace
Kelly.

Other
designers
have
adopted
the
practice
of
naming
their
handbag
designs
after
celebrities,
for

example
Marc
Jacobs,
who
created
the
"Stam"
purse,
named
after
model
Jessica
Stam.

HISTORY
OF
HANDBAGS

Handbags have been essential to fashion history ever since people have had something precious to carry
around with them and only the items have changed over time. Early handbags ware more functional rather
than being a fashion statement. They were typically small circular cut pieces of material that normally had
a leather strap. The leather strap was sewn around the circumference of the handbag to maintain its'
strength and security. The very first mention in written literature comes from the 14th century, even
though Egyptian hieroglyphs show pouches carried around the waist. Bags were attached to what were
called "girdles" which were fastened to the waist. Embroidery and jewels adorned these articles and were
used to show status - the richer the person, the more elaborate the bag.
In the 16th century, handbags took on more of an air of practicality with the use of everyday materials
such as leather with a drawstring fastener on top. During this period, cloth bags were used that were made
larger and used by travelers and carried diagonally across the body. The 17th century saw more variety
and both fashionable men and women carried small purses with more complex shapes. Young girls were
taught embroidery as a very necessary skill to make them marriageable and we see the rise of beautiful
and unique stitched artwork in handbags.
Neo-classical clothing became popular in the 18th century with a reduction in the amount of
underclothing worn by women. Wearing a purse would ruin the look of this clothing so fashionable ladies
started carrying their handbags which were called reticules. Reticules became a fashion statement. The
functional element of handbags although remaining important started to give way to the design of the
handbag in reasons why people chose a particular handbag for their wardrobe. Fashion magazines were
primarily responsible for making handbags a fashion statement as they began to comment on the best
handbags to use for specific events, occasions and locations. This led to the need to have different
handbags for different conditions. Handbags remained functional but not just as travelers carry bag but to
carry other personal items including a fan, perfume, smelling salts and make-up.
The term "handbag" first came into use in the early 1900's and generally referred to hand-held luggage
bags usually carried by men. These were an inspiration for new bags that became popularized for women,
including handbags with complicated fasteners, internal compartments, and locks. With this new fashion,
jewelers got into the act with special compartments for opera glasses, cosmetics, and fans.
The 1920's saw a revolution in fashion with varying hemlines and lighter clothing. Bags no longer needed
to match the outfit perfectly and the rage was for the stylish lady to carry a doll dressed exactly like
herself, complete with matching bag for her miniature companion!
The 1940's saw new austerity in clothing, including handbags with the war effort in mind. Metal frames,
zips, leather, and mirrors were in short supply so manufactures used plastic and wood. The 50's saw the

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rise of important designer houses including Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Hermes and the 60's saw the
breakdown of old notions of the classical and the rise of youth culture.
Copy is the most sincere form of flattery and, if so, Kate Spade, Gucci, Hermes, Coach and Dior must be
very flattered! There are many replica handbags flooding the market. Some of these "designer fakes" even
carry the label of the Company they are imitating while others just have the signature "C" or "G" without
the label.
TYPES OF BAGS
Athletic bag: a soft, roomy bag used to carry sporting equipment
and apparel to the gym
Backpack: a bag that is supported by the shoulders with double
handles and lies across the back. Lightweight types of backpacks
are sometimes worn on only one shoulder strap. Backpacks are
often preferred to handbags for carrying heavy loads or carrying
any sort of equipment, because of the limited capacity to carry
heavy weights for long periods of time in the hands. Backpacks
are supported on either one or both shoulders. Perfect for students
who need to carry laptops, books, water bottle and snacks among
other things, they are the traditional school bags with a twist.
A backpack ought to have two padded straps – wider the straps,
better the support.
Baguette Bag: A purse that is relatively long from side to side
and small from top to bottom basically a little like a baguette with
a handle. It is long and narrow in shape similar to a French bread
loaf.

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Bowling Bag: A bag originally made to hold a bowling ball, this
has become a fashion item.
Bucket bag: roomy bag shaped like a bucket, usually has an open
top and shoulder strap.
Clutch Bag: Small but long bag (rectangular), evening bag
without a handle. You have to clutch it hence the name.
Cosmetic case: bags of varying sizes and shapes with a zip
closure lined to hold cosmetics
Coin Purse: Sometimes called change purses. A coin purse is a
small bag designed to hold coins and other small items.
Cross-Body Bag: Typically smaller in size, these bags are meant
to be worn across the body to allow you be hands-free while on
the go

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Drawstring Handbag: A bag with a string or cord cinch closure
Envelope bag: a flat, square or rectangular bag with a triangle-
shaped top flaps that fold over like an envelope.
Fold over clutch: a clutch with or without a handle that can be
tucked or folded.
Hobo Bag: a large crescent-shaped shoulder bag or any large bag
that hangs from your shoulder and has a main compartment
closure.
Jhola :A cousin of satchel bag is our good old mirror worked
“jhola” bags that we get off the streets. While the satchel can be
teamed with western wear, the mirror worked versions can be
carried with Indian casual wear. These Jholas come in varied
designs and colors, thus suited for every personality. It’s now safe
to say that that perception has changed. They are now considered
to be a major fashion draw for students throughout the country.

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Messenger Bag: A bag with a long strap to be worn across the
body that winds around the chest resting the bag on the lower
back.. Messenger bags are often used by bicycle messengers,
though they are increasingly becoming an urban fashion icon.
Messenger bags ensure comfort to people carrying heavy and/or
bulky items, while allowing easy access to the contents. While
they can be found in the possession of either gender, they are
often commonly employed by men in a function analogous to a
woman's purse. These have also become fashionable in urban
environments, among cyclists and commuters. Materials used in
messenger bags are often more durable and water-resistant than
traditional bags. Typically, a messenger bag has a rectangular
shape with a fold over flap that is held closed by a buckle, clasp,
zipper or magnetic catch.
Muff: a winter bag made of real or faux fur, wool or velvet that
has zippered compartments and a slip opening for your hands.
Saddle Bag: a large bag (or pair of bags) hung over a saddle.
Many designers use saddle bag as an inspiration for their designs.
Therefore, their bags are called saddle bags, even though they are
not actually saddle bag

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Satchel: A structured handbag with double handles, locking
hardware and a wide, flat bottom. May be large or small. A
satchel is a bag, often one or sometimes two large straps.
The strap is often worn so that it diagonally crosses the body,
with the bag hanging on the opposite hip, rather than hanging
directly down from the shoulder. Handle is generally rigid and
curved. The main difference between a satchel and a briefcase is
that a satchel is soft-sided usually of leather. Also, satchels often
have straps while briefcases usually don't.
Most students are also using these bags to help them carry their
books, notebooks and other school supplies.
Sling Bag: A bag with a long strap (similar to a messenger bag),
yet smaller. This stylish design is quite similar to the messenger
counterparts, but slings are definitely way ahead considering style
and looks. When used by men, the bags are often called man
purses or man bags. This bag goes well with western casuals.
These bags are more famous amongst the men folk.
Tote Bag: A medium to large bag with two straps. Sometimes
sold as a reusable shopping bag, this bag can carry anything that is
too large for a common handbag – also called a ‘Shopper’
Weekend Bag: A bag of a size to carry clothing and personal
articles for a weekend trip

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Wristlet - a clutch shaped bag that comes with an attached leather
or bracelet-looking strap allowing you to hold your bag and dance
freely.
Duffel Bag: A large bag usually used for travel or sports. The
name comes from Duffel, a town in Belgium where the thick cloth
used to make the bag originated. Duffel bags are often used by
sailors, and are sometimes called sea bags in this capacity. More
recently, a duffel bag typically refers to the specific style of bag,
though the phrase may also be used to refer to any large bag made
of thick fabric. It is often used to carry luggage or sports
equipment by people who travel in the outdoors. Duffel bags
have large compartments to place numerous valuables such as
clothes, shoes, and other things when away from home.
Laptop Bags: A bag used to carry laptops, ipads or other portable
electronic devices. Typically has a single handle and is carried
like a briefcase. Most come with a removable shoulder strap.
Organizer Bags: Handbags with compartments and pockets for
organized storage of makeup, wallets, coin purses, appointment
books, and other personal items.

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COMPONENT PARTS OF HANDBAGS:
Term Definition Examples
Closure Mechanism used to close the purse Drawstring, snap, zipper, toggle button, magnet,
Velcro, kiss-lock, clasp
Handle Refers to relatively short, usually rigid
hand grips
Leather, synthetic leather, chain, metal, bamboo,
wood, bone, plastic
Strap Commonly long, flexible loops Leather, synthetic leather, fabric
Lining Fabric used to line the interior of the
purse
Natural fabric, synthetic fabric, vinyl
Frame A rigid top structure from which a soft
bag is suspended; the closure is often a
kiss-lock type which snaps shut
Usually metal but may be plastic or another hard
material
Hardware (Usually) metal pieces Zippers, snaps, buckles, clasp closures, spring clasps
and loops used to attach removable straps, strap
adjustments, rings connecting straps to bags, feet
Feet Small nubs, typically four, found on the
bottom of a flat-bottomed bag to keep it
off of dirty surfaces
Metal, rubber, plastic

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LUGGAGE BAGS-:
Luggage consists of bags, cases, and containers which hold a traveler’s articles during transit.
The modern traveler can be expected to have packages containing clothing, toiletries, small possessions,
trip necessities, and on the return-trip, souvenirs. For some people, luggage and the style thereof is
representative of the owner's wealth.
Luggage has changed over time. Historically the most common types of luggage
were chests or trunks made of wood or other heavy materials. These would be shipped by professional
movers. Since the Second World War smaller and more lightweight suitcases and bags that can be carried
by an individual have become the main form of luggage.
TYPES OF LUGGAGE
No single piece of luggage is perfect for all kinds of travel. That's why there are so many types of
luggage, bags and packs to choose from.
Trunk - A wooden box, generally much larger than other kinds of luggage. Trunks come in smaller sizes
as in the case of footlockers and larger ones called steamers. These days trunks are more commonly used
for storage than transportation. Items large enough to require a trunk are now usually shipped in transport
cases.
Suitcase - A general term that may refer to wheeled or non-wheeled luggage, as well as soft or hard side
luggage. There are three types of suitcase. Each can be anywhere from 24 inches to 36 inches in size.

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Hard-sided suitcases: Hard-sided suitcases feature wheels, locks, and pull straps and are especially
durable against wear and tear. Many are constructed of plastic, metal, or other molded materials; others
feature wood or metal interior frames and a soft covering like fabric or leather.
Semi-soft suitcases: Lightweight semi-soft suitcases offer more room for expansion than other types of
suitcases and most have wheels and straps for easy transport.
Soft-sided suitcases: Light and expandable soft-sided suitcases have zipper closures and stiffeners instead
of an interior framework.
Garment bag - A style of luggage that folds over on itself to allow long garments such as suits or dresses
to be packed flat to avoid creasing. Garment bags come in both wheeled and non-wheeled models, and are
usually one of the largest pieces in any set of luggage.
4. Tote - A small bag, usually worn on the shoulder
5. Duffel bag - A barrel-shaped bag, almost exclusively soft side, is well suited to casual travel, with very
little organization inside. The spelling "duffle" is also valid.

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Wheeled Duffels
Nothing swallows up gear like a duffel bag, and one with wheels is a good choice
for multisport gear junkies. If your adventures frequently require gear of widely
varying sizes and shapes, rolling duffel is a smart way to corral it all. For light
packers, a carry-on wheeled duffel (22") offers less space but allows you to forego
the time and expense of checking a bag.
Wheeled Backpacks
Popular with adventure travelers, these combine the convenience of wheeled luggage with the mobility of
a backpack. You can transport lots of gear with a simple pull of the extendable handle.
Laptop Bags, Sleeves and Day Packs
These urban bags have a padded compartment to protect your 10"–17" laptop, plus a bevy of organizing
pockets to hold cables, peripherals and paperwork. Laptop sleeves can also be used with e-readers and
tablets.

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FEATURES OF LUGGAGE
Locks - locks serve multiple purposes; a deterrent to dishonest airport workers and locks also help keep
baggage closed during handling.
Expandable Luggage - suitcases that can be unzipped to expand for more packing space.
Wheels: The "Dawn-Mobile", the first suitcase on wheels, was invented in 1908 by James Cole, a
preacher for the Bible Students, to carry copies of the Bible commentary. Rolling suitcases were
reinvented in 1970, when Bernard D. Sadow applied for a patent that was granted in 1972 as United
States patent 3,653,474 for "Rolling Luggage". Sadow's four-wheeled suitcases, pulled using a loose
strap, were later surpassed in popularity by roll boards, suitcases that feature two wheels and are pulled in
an upright position using a long handle, and were invented in 1987 by US pilot Robert Plath.
Large suitcases and Pullmans

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PROMINENT BRANDS (INTERNATIONAL)-:
There is now an array of luxury luggage brands to pick from and all offer style and practicality in their
collections. Companies range from fashion heavyweights Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren to travel
specialists Tumi and Samsonite. Even sports car maker Porsche is getting involved with its Driver’s
Selection suitcases.
And many of today’s luggage lines have to satisfy the jetsetter’s requirements. Most offer two-wheel
mobility while some go further with four-wheel 360° freedom of movement. Victorinox, which made the
original Swiss army knife before turning to luggage, has in-built hangar clamps in its Deluxe Garment
Mobilizer to keep clothes wrinkle-free.
Luggage doesn’t always mean suitcases – Alfred Dunhill’s and Ralph Lauren’s weekender bags provide
an alternative for shorter stays. They are stylish without sacrificing function and are spacious enough to
allow you to bring what you need.
Italian luxury goods brand Bottega Veneta started in 1966. It is a lot younger than the other featured
labels but it offers something different to hard-shell suitcases. The fashion house uses its signature
intrecciato VN leather for its luggage line. The material is durable and stands up to the wear and tear of
frequent travel.
All of our luxury luggage lines feature because they strike the balance between style, function and
endurance. Traveling can be that much sweeter with a reliable companion in your hand.
Louis Vuitton
With roots in trunk making dating back as far as 1871, Louis Vuitton combines luxury with expert
craftsmanship to provide the ultimate in sophisticated luggage. The label's LV monogram appears on
most of its products, ranging from luxury trunks and leather goods to ready-to-wear, shoes, watches,
jewellery, accessories, sunglasses, and books.
Whether you’re seeking the signature Monogram canvas, personalized details or colorful designs,
globetrotters can’t go wrong with one of Louis Vuitton’s travel creations.

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Samsonite
International luggage specialist Samsonite has been leading
the field for more than 100 years. Samsonite International
S.A. is an American multinational luggage manufacturer and retailer, with products ranging from
large suitcases to small toiletries bags and briefcases. It was founded in Denver, Colorado in 1910
by Jesse Shwayder. Shwayder named one of his initial cases Samson, after the Biblical strongman, and
began using the trademark Samsonite in 1941. The company changed its name to Samsonite in 1966.
VIP Industries Ltd(NATIONAL BRAND)-:
It is world second largest and Asia’s largest Luggage maker based in Mumbai Maharashtra, India. The
company manufactures plastic moulded suitcases, handbags, briefcases, vanity cases and luggage. It has
acquired UK luggage brand Carlton in 2004.It provides travel products, hard and soft-sided luggage, bags,
backpacks, duffels, shoulder bags, waist pouches, sling bags, duffel trolleys, vanity cases, office bags and
satchels, suitcases, and briefcases. The company offers its products primarily under the VIP, Carlton,
Footloose, Alfa, Aristocrat, Sky bags, and Buddy brands.

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EXERCISES-:
1. Design 3 bags of different occasion and show the side, front and top view and
render it and mention its different parts with appropriate trimmings.
2. Collect 5 national and international brand pictures of bags and luggage’s and
study and note the design and interesting features of those bags and discuss it in class.
3. Design your own logo and give an imaginary brand name with one bag design for
the following wear-:
A.
executive
wear

B.
cruise/resort
wear

C.
Party
wear.

4. Draw the outline of the of a female human form based on 5 different occasional wear and
sketch and identify the various bags of that may be worn in this figure.
5. Collect different newspaper and magazines and identify the bags and paste and label it.
Next, try to draw and render the exact image by doing a photo analysis.
Review Questions
Q1. Describe the history of bags? Explain 5 different types of bags along with correct diagram.
Q2. Explain 5 components of Handbags.
Q3. Describe one international brand for bags in details.
Q4. Explain two types of luggage’s with the help of a neat diagram.
Q5. Write short notes on the following-:

1.
Straps

2.
Laptop
bag
3.
Bougette
Bags

4.
Athletic
Bags

5.
Lining

6.
Hobo
bags

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UNIT
3
SHOES

SHOES-: DEFINITE FASHION FOOTWEAR!
Footwear refers to garments worn on the feet, for fashion, protection against the environment,
and adornment. Some cultures choose not to wear footwear, at least in some situations.
Socks and other hosiery are typically worn between the feet and other footwear, less often with
sandals or flip flops (thongs). Footwear is sometimes the subject of sexual fetishism, such as
shoe fetishism or boot fetishism.
Durable shoes are a relatively recent invention, though many ancient civilizations wore
ornamental footwear. Many ancient civilizations saw no need for footwear. The Romans saw
clothing and footwear as signs of power and status in society, and most Romans wore footwear,
while slaves and peasants remained barefoot. The Middle Ages saw the rise of high-heeled
shoes, also associated with power, and the desire to look larger than life, and artwork from that
period often depicts bare feet as a symbol of poverty. Bare feet are also seen as a sign of humility
and respect, and adherents of many religions worship or mourn while barefoot, or remove their
shoes as a sign of respect towards someone of higher standing.
In some cultures, people remove their shoes before entering a home. Some religious
communities require people to remove shoes before they enter holy buildings, such as temples.
Practitioners of the craft of shoemaking are called shoemakers, cobblers, or cordwainers.
Materials

• Leather
• Plastic
• Rubber
• Textiles
• Wood
• Jute
• Metal
Components
• Adhesives
• Buckle
• Counter
• Eyelet
• Heel
• Hook
• Insole
• Laces

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• Shank
• Sole
• Tack
• Tread
• Welt
• Outsole

Fig-‐1.1

Fig
1.1
shows
Shoes
made
from
crocodile
skin,
in
a
conservation
exhibit
at
Bristol
Zoo,
England

Types

• Shoe Styles-:Boots
o Chukka boots
o Combat boots
o Cowboy boots
o Go-go boots
o Hiking boots
o Kinky boots
o Motorcycle boots
o Mukluk
o Platform boots
o Riding boots
o Russian boots
o Derby boots
o Thigh-length boots
• Shoes

o Athletic shoes (also known as trainers or sneakers)
o Brothel creepers
o Court shoes (known in the US as pumps)
o Diabetic shoes
o Espadrilles
o Galoshes
o Kitten heels
o Lace-up shoes
§ Derby shoes
§ Oxford shoes

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§ Brogues
o High-tops
o Loafers
o Mary Jane
o Moccasins
o Monks
o Mules
o Platform shoes
o School shoes
o Skate shoes
o Tap shoes
• Sandals
o Flip-flops (thongs)
o Slide
o Slippers
• Foot wraps
• Specific footwear
o Ballet shoes
o High-heeled footwear
o Climbing shoes
o Clogs
o Football boots
o Sabaton
o Safety footwear
o Ski boots
o Snowshoes
o Surgical shoe
o Pointe shoes
o Swim fins (flippers)
• Traditional footwear
Footwear
industry

In Europe, the footwear industry has declined in the last years. Whereas in 2005, there were
about 27,000 firms, in 2008 there were only 24,000. As well as the number of firms, the direct
employment has decreased. The only factors that remained almost steady were the value added at
factor cost and production value.
In the U.S., the annual footwear industry revenue was $48 billion in 2012. There are about
29,000 shoe stores in the U.S. and the shoe industry employs about 189,000 people. Due to rising
imports, these numbers are also declining. The only way of staying afloat in the shoe market is to
establish a presence in niche market

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Fig
1.2

Fig
1.3

Fig
1.2
and1.3
showing
the
features
for
the
parts
of
shoe.
Note
the
shoe
type
show
in
both
the

pictures
is
of
Sneaker.

Fig
1.4
showing
the
anatomy
of
part
of
a
Female
shoe.
Note
that
some
parts
of
female
shoe
don’t
exist

in
male
show.
Can
you
jot
down
the
difference
of
those
few
parts?

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Fig
1.5
Showing
full
features
of
a
athletic
Sneaker
ideal
for
sports
wear.

___________________________________________________________________________________

Fig 1.6 Showing parts of male shoe.
______________________________________________________________________________

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Terminology
The following is a list of terms used to describe parts of the shoe. Some terms refer to parts that
all shoes have such as the sole, while other terms may only apply to certain types or style of
shoe.
Breast: The forward facing part of the heel, under the arch of the sole
Counter: A stiff piece of material at the heel of a shoe positioned between the lining and upper
that helps maintain the shape of the shoe. The counter helps strengthen the rear of the soe.
Feather: The part of the shoe where the upper’s edge meets the sole
Heel: The heel is the part of the sole that raises the rear of the shoe in relation to the front. The
heal seat is the top of the heel that touches the upper; this is typically shaped to match the form
of the upper. The part of the heel that comes in contact with the ground is known as the top
piece.
Insole: A layer of material that sits inside the shoe that creates a layer between the sole and the
wearer’s foot. The insole adds comfort for the wearer, while hiding the join between the upper.
Linings: Most shoes include a lining on the inside of the shoe, around the vamp and quarter.
These linings improve comfort, and can help increase the lifespan of the shoe.
Outsole: The exposed part of the sole that is contact with the ground. As with all parts of the
shoe, outsoles are made from a variety of materials. The properties the outsole need are: grip,
durability, and water resistance
Puff: a reinforcing inside the upper which gives the toe its shape and support. Similar function to
a toe cap.
Quarter: The rear and sides of the upper that covers the heel that is behind the vamp. The heel
section of the quarter is often strengthened with a stiffener, which helps support the rear of the
foot. Some shoe designs use a continuous piece of leather for the vamp and quarter.
Seat: Where the heel of the fit sits in the shoe. It normally matches the shape of the heel for
comfort and support.
‘Shank: A piece of metal inserted between the sole and the insole lying against the arch of the
foot.
Sole: The entire part of the shoe that sites below the wearers foot. As opposite to the upper. The
upper and sole make up the whole of the shoe.

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Throat: The front of the vamp next to the toe cap. For shoes were the vamp and quarter panels
are one piece the throat is at the eye-stay.
Toe cap: Shoes may have a toe cap in the front upper of the shoe. Toe caps can take various
forms, but the distinct types are: complete replacements for the front upper of the shoe; stitched
over toecaps that add an extra layer to the upper; solid toe caps for protection, such as steel toe
caps. Stitch over toe caps may be decorative in nature. Toe caps help add strength to the upper
front of the shoe, an area that receives a lot of stress and wear from use.
Top Piece: The part of the heel that comes in contact with the ground. Made of a durable
material that helps maintain friction with the ground.
Top line: The top edge of the upper
Upper: The entire part of the shoe that covers the foot.
Vamp: The section of upper that covers the front of the foot as far as the back as the join of the
quarter.
Waist: The arch and in-step of the foot.
Welt: A strip of material that joins the upper to the sole.
Understanding
the
Basic
Manufacturing
Process

People have been wearing shoes for over 5,000 years, but shoe sizing systems are a fairly recent
development. Many years ago, shoes were made or acquired in one of three ways:
1) Custom-made by a shoemaker;
2) The individual made his own for himself or his family; and
3) Buying second-hand shoes from a more prosperous individual (or receiving hand-me-downs within
the family).
FIG
1.7

Fig
1.1
showing
an
artist's
impression
of
Ötzi's
right
shoe.
Ötzi
is
a
male
mummy
found
in
the
Austrian

Alps
in
September
1991
in
remarkably
well-‐preserved
condition.

As seen with the discovery of a 5,000 year old Iceman, in Fig 1.7 his shoes were self-made.
Each shoe consisted of an oval piece of leather; the edges turned up and bound with strong
leather straps. Microscopic examination illustrated that the material used, was in fact, leather and

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not fur. The soles were presumably made of cowhide. Attached to the straps was a net knotted
from grass cords; this covered the instep and the heel. This device was intended to hold in place
the grass stuffed into the shoes for warmth. The cord-net also covered the loop hanging down
from the leggings. Attached to the sole leather were the uppers, presumably of fur, which then
continued up the leg roughly in the form of a boot. This was tied around the ankle with grass
cords.
The oldest shoe found in Western Europe before the Iceman was unearthed in 1874. It came
from the Buiner bog in the Dutch province of Drente. On the basis of pollen analysis, this shoe
was dated back to the end of the Neolithic period, or generally about 2500 BC. Unlike the shoes
of the iceman, it’s sole and upper were made from a single, oval piece of leather. In later
specimens, a seam in the front of an inverted T would be placed at the heel, ensuring a better fit.
This would be tied around the foot with a leather strap, which passed through slits about 2
centimeters long (3/4 inch) placed some 3 millimeters (¼ inch) in front the edge. Even though
there was nothing else remaining of this shoe, such as an inner lining, it was clearly constructed
on a different principle from that of the Iceman’s footwear, which consisted of separate pieces of
material sewn together.
The homemade process was relatively simple. The foot was placed on a slab of leather or other
material and a sole was cut from it. A piece of leather or some type of cloth was laid over the top
of the foot, cut to fit, then nailed or tacked to the sole. Nobody thought in terms of size or width;
the shoes were basically made to protect the feet. It was simply a method of fitting the foot with
a cover. Shoemakers would generally follow the same basic method except for much more skill
and sophistication. The shoemaker would start with a foot tracing, sometimes making an
impression of the foot in clay or plaster. He would measure the foot "mass" by using the hand-
span methods; elsewhere with various spans of his hand he created a "last" (a form shaped like a
foot). With this process, there was no sizing of shoes; just the taking of measurements. Each
shoemaker measured in his own individual way, which he protected and guarded. These trade
secrets, of course, precluded any possibility of a general shoe measuring or sizing system
applicable to everyone. Once the last was made, the shoemaker kept it in his possession, assuring
repeat business from the same customer. Also, the shoemaker would be able to continue making
shoes of a finer quality than the homemade kind because of his shoemaking skills as well as
individual artistry in styling.
Early shoes, more than likely, fit much better than today’s shoes, as they were custom made to
each foot. But nevertheless, many points of modern fitting refinement were absent, such as tread
design, collar fit, heel and arch fittings, vamp fit, etc.

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List of shoe styles

Fig
1.8
Sneakers
in
a
footwear
shopping
mall
at
display.
This is a list of shoe styles and designs. A shoe is an item of footwear intended to protect and
comfort the human foot while doing various activities. Shoes are also used as an item of
decoration. The design of shoes has varied enormously through time and from culture to culture,
with appearance originally being tied to function. Additionally, fashion has often dictated many
design elements, such as whether shoes have very high heels or flat ones. Contemporary
footwear varies widely in style, complexity and cost. Shoemaking is the process of making
footwear. Originally, shoes were made one at a time by hand. Traditional handicraft shoemaking
has now been largely superseded in volume of shoes produced by industrial mass production of
footwear, but not necessarily in quality, attention to detail, or craftsmanship.
Fig 1.9 Ballet shoes Fig 1.10 Derby shoes

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Fig
1.11
Traditional
Shoe
(Galesh)

Fig
1.12
High
heel
shoes
with
stilettos

Fig
1.13
Jelly
shoes.

How to Find Your True Shoe Size
Is it better to buy shoes that are too big or too small? How many times do you ask yourself that
question? Or think to yourself "now that I bought these hot shoes, how can I make them fit and
feel better?" These are questions that cross the minds of many women when purchasing the latest
and hottest shoe styles.
In order to find your true shoe size when you are buying shoes use the Brannock shoe
measuring device at the shoe store. That will give you both the width and length of your foot.
There are many people who find, after measuring their feet, that they have one foot longer or
wider than the other. This is a normal variant and there is nothing to worry about. One of the
reasons why it happens can be genetic and you can blame it on mom or dad. The formation of
bunions and tailor bunions are boney abnormalities that have a genetic predisposition and will
change the anatomical boney alignment of the foot making it wider. Another reason could be
because of a splay foot where the ligaments weaken and the foot can elongate and widen.
Women during pregnancy may experience this type of phenomena because of the hormone
Relaxin that is released to allow the ligaments in the pelvis to stretch during the time of delivery.
The ligaments in the foot can also become affected and the foot can get wider and longer.
However, once the foot gets longer or wider it does not go back to its original size.
The rule of thumb to live by when buying a pair of shoes is that there should be a thumb's width
between the tip of the longest toe in your foot and the end of the shoe. The first, second or third
toes are often the landmarks because they are usually the longest toes in your foot.
Always buy a pair of shoes that fit the bigger foot. The reason for this is that you can place an
over the counter insole in the larger one to either take up some of the room or prevent foot
slippage. Never force your foot into a shoe that is too small or too tight. Wearing ill-fitting shoes
can cause foot, ankle, knee and low back problems. Shoes that do not fit properly can throw your
balance off and make you walk funny. If the shoe is too narrow you can develop ingrown toe
nails, corns on the top and side of your toes and irritate the skin resulting in blister formation.
The solution to these problems is to take your time when selecting a new pair of shoes. Try not to
buy shoes on emotion only. Hint: Buy shoes during the time of the day that you would be
probably wearing them because feet can often swell during the day. If your feet are swimming
around inside the shoe and slipping forward, place an insole or an arch support in the shoe to

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take up some of the extra room as well as prevent the slipping. If the arch in your foot is
cramping when wearing shoes that are a little too big and going into spasm because the toes are
curling up inside the shoes, my company makes an over the counter shoe product available to
prevent that problem. The product is called Instant Arches. This oval shaped arch support
product, one size fits all, will stop the foot from moving forward in the shoe and prevent skin
irritation. They will also support the arch and eliminate arch cramps
How to take care of Footwear?
“The rains can play havoc on your footwear. While gum boots and rubber shoes are preferred
during the season, an occasion might require you to wear leather shoes, ballet flats or even
wedges. “
Moreover, the humidity in the weather could make you sweat more, leaving a foul smell in your
shoes and socks. Here are ways to take care of your footwear during this season.
- As soon as you return home, wipe the muck off your footwear using a clean and moist cloth.
- If you wear sports shoes in the rains, dry them by loosening the laces.
- Do not keep footwear in closed cabinets without completely drying them.
- Drying shoes under direct sunlight can do more harm to your shoes. Leave them to dry under
the fan instead.
- Always wear clean socks.
- Try sticking to rubber footwear and avoid wearing expensive shoes.
- Avoid wearing leather shoes in this weather. However, if an occasion demands you to wear
them, apply a wax-based polish. This will create a thin protective layer that provides light
resistance to water and salt.
1.
Leather
and
Patent
Leather
Shoes

For leather shoes to maintain their condition, a rigorous cleaning regimen is required. Properly
maintained leather shoes will have a long life and be wearable for years. The table below lists
some of the essential shoe care tools required to care for a pair of leather shoes.
Tool
Proper
Usage

Leather
Brush
Used to brush dust and debris from leather shoes. This is the first step in routine
maintenance for shoes.
Leather
Cleaner
Saddle soap, ivory soap, or specialty leather cleaners can be used to clean a
leather shoe. This should be applied with a damp cloth and then wiped off.
Allow the shoe to dry on a cedar shoe tree before polishing or conditioning.

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