Open Source Strategy in Logistics 2015_Henrik Hankedvz-d-nl-log-conference.pdf
University of south asia rasel
1. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
University Of South Asia
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UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ASIA
Banani, Dhaka-1213
Report
on
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT (code-411)
At
Jann Group
Road-02, Plot-04, Abdullah Bog, North Badda, Dhaka.
Project Title: Industrial Attachment Garments
This Project Report is submitted to the University of South Asia as a Partial
requirement for the Fulfillment of the Degree Bachelor of Science in Engineering.
Supervised By:
Dr. Engr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan, MIEB
Guest Faculty of University of South Asia and
Associate Professor and Head
Department of Apparel Manufacturing Engineering (BUTEX)
Submitted By:
Md. Rashel Mondol ID No: 161-0094-020 (EV-34)
Program: Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering, EV-34
University of South Asia
2. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
University Of South Asia
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah to give my strength and ability to complete the
industrial training and this report. I have made my life more bountiful. May you name be exalted,
honored and glorified.
Now I wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have
assisted and inspired me in the completion of our training period.
Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman khan my supervisor, to whom I am extremely indebted
for his tremendous support and guidance throughout my training period. Being
working with him I have not only earned valuable knowledge but was also
inspired by his innovativeness which helped enrich my experience to a greater
extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable.
I would like to thank the management of the JANN GROUP MILLS LTD for
giving me the opportunity to do the industrial training successfully and also their
valuable suggestions. My deepest appreciation goes to Mr. Raja, Deputy
General Manager, JANN GROUP MILLS LTD for his permission to conduct my
industrial training without which it would be uncompleted. The generous support
is greatly appreciated. I would also like to JANN GROUP MILLS LTD for helping
me to complete industrial training successfully. My gratitude also goes to all the
employees of JANN GROUP MILLS LTD for their sincere co-operation, support
and valuable advices.
3. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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JANN GROUP MILLS LTDone of the leading manufacturers & exporters
of a wide range of knitted garments. This company earned a good
reputation in the market by manufacturing superior quality products in
various designs and in vibrant range of colors. This companies have set
all the standards of quality and the satisfaction of the customers is our
prime concern. It endeavor to make their customers happy. Here the
production process runs from making yarn to fabric and from fabric to
finished garment.
JANN GROUP MILLS LTD is engaged inprocessing rawfabric to finished
products and exports these products to different countries. Its factory is
situated in Road-02, Plot-04, Abdullah Bog, North Badda, Dhaka. and
head office is in Gulshan-1, Dhaka. I worked in the factory and paid
occasionalvisits to the head office in order to cope up with the production
process. I worked with almost all the departments; especially in Marketing
Department, Import and Export Department and Merchandising
Department. After the global financial crisis, customer’s perception has
become as a most important and sensitive Issue of companies. It is of
course not just important for garments. It is something that needs to be
addressed in relation to all companies.
This company help me to learn about Knitting, Dyeing, Washing, Printing
and Garments. My Industrial training was about all of this sector. I gain
lots of practical knowledge from every sectorof this company. In Knitting,
Dyeing, Washing, Printing and Garments i learned about many kinds of
new machinery, many types of chemical and especially many type of
fabrics. I also learned from them maintenance policy and when I know
from them about their management policyit really was a great experience
of my life. I attached almost all details what I gained from this company.
4. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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Address- Corporate office
House no 08, Road no 01
Gulshan Avenue , Gulsan-1,
Dhaka-1212,Bangladesh.
Website-www. http://janncomposite.com/
Contact Details- Phone no. 880 2 58811313
Fax no. 880 25 881 13 13
Email: info@janncomposite.com
JANN GROUP MILLS LTD is one of the large groups in Bangladesh and high GDP
contributor. This is a large factory with all the facilities to composite yarn. Here the
production process runs from making yarn to fabric and from fabric to finished garment.
In this age, Bangladesh is flourished with RMG sector where this division has its
immense contribution. It has three high capacity garments manufacturing plants where
it can produce 24.30 million pieces knit apparels per annum with the help of
sophisticated machinery and trained manufacturing team.
Their plant and human capabilities allow them to undertake any bulk production of
garments in shortest delivery period.
Sample lead time is 7 – 10 days.
Productions lead time is 60 – 90 days after order confirmation.
ICTML. (Apparel Manufacturing Section)
The factory has been awarded WRAP, ISO 9001-
2000, SEDEX (SMETA) and DISNEY Certificate for its quality products and
Compliance
Year of Establishment 2004
Business lines
Employee Number Manufacturing and marketing of wide range of knit apparels.
Product Management -250
Production -8333
Production Capacity T-Shirt, Polo shirt, Sweatshirt, Fleece shirt, Ladies Tops, etc.
775,000 Pcs/Month
Export Market Europe, USA, Japan
6. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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Introduction
RMG (Ready Made Garment) is very important and helpful for our Bangladesh.
Bangladesh has emerged as a key player in RMG (Ready Made Garment) sector since
1978. Textiles and clothing account for about 85% of total export earnings of
Bangladesh. Out of which, 80% comes from the apparel sector which covers the major
products of knit and woven shirts, blouses, trousers, skirts, shorts, jackets, sweaters,
sports wears and many more casual and fashion items. Starting from Buttons, labels,
apparel papers, threads, and all other products are found here. Even services like
dying, washing, and ironing are also found in the corners of Industrial areas of
Bangladesh.
The garment industry of Bangladesh has been the key export division and a main
source of foreign exchange for the last 25 years. At present, the country generates
about $5 billion worth of products each year by exporting garment. The industry
provides employment to about 3 million workers of whom 90% are women. I have
completed this report on the basis of all the department of RMG sector such as
Merchandising Department, Commercial Department, Production Department, Supply
Chain Department, Human Resource Department, and Compliance Department. So
by completing this report I get overall idea about RMG sector, so its carry more value
than any books.
I preferred this attachment in JANN GROUP MILLS LTD, which is a 100% export
oriented knit industry. For continuing the study of internship in the JANN GROUP
MILLS LTD I almost worked all the sections of this company and tried to find out the
activities, planning and many other things as well. In context, I have discussed about
these things deliberately to let you know about.
7. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
University Of South Asia
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Objectives
Its documents for future.
To know detail about RMG sector.
Information gathers about commercial.
Getting idea about shipping procedure.
Comparison between class room learning and practical learning.
Knowledge gather about RMG sector related other organization.
To achieve new idea about knit garments manufacturing process.
To focus on the valuable part of Internship Report.
To have skill labor for quality product.
To study the present market composition for the Bangladeshi garment product
about Market diversification.
Opportunity of behavioral theory practice in our garments sector.
Regularly behavioral theory practice in garments industry.
To do a merchandising practice in the factory.
Identify the additional services that the existing companies are going to avail.
To relate the use of groupware and collaborative systems with future trends in
managers' roles and responsibilities.
To identify merchandising and total production system.
To find the current scenario of backward supply chain status of ICTML.
To find the ways of improving the backward linkage of the supply chain for
ICTML.
8. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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Limitations of the study
1. Unfortunately due to the company’s limitations (business secrecy and
confidentiality), I was unable to acquire sufficient information.
2. Personal barriers like inability to understand some official terms; office decorum
etc. created a few problems for me.
3. Time was also a limitation. Gathering a huge amount of information during working
for only two months was really a difficult job.
4. Merchandiser doesn’t have enough time to give the information elaborately.
5. Lack of organizing chain of command.
6. Lack of instruction book, and any change. They are following traditional business.
7. I may have to suffer for lack of supply chain management.
8. No other garment’s data has been compared with this data. There might be some
discrepancies with other factory’s supply chain scenario.
9. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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2. Different Section of “JANN GROUP MILLS LTD”
2.1. Knitting
2.2. Dyeing
2.3. Washing
2.4. Printing
2.5. Garments
2.6. IE
2.7. Merchandising
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2.1.3-Sampling department
2.1.3.1-Sequence of Sampling:
1ST Pattern → 2ND Pattern → Counter Sample → Salesman Sample → Photo
Sample → Approval Sample (Size Set, Mock-Up) →Pre- Production Sample →
Production Sample → Shipping Sample.
2.1.3.2-First Pattern:
First pattern is the first physical version of any garment as per the artwork done by
designer and for developer.
Human Mind → Sketch → Paper Pattern → Sample
2.1.3.3-Second Pattern:
Usually designer /developer always ask for some changes to the first pattern.
Second pattern is made as per comments.
2.1.3.4-Counter Sample:
Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not on
designer's artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser.
2.1.3.5-Salesman Sample:
Salesman sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are on speculation,
usually in l size in all color combinations of expected order. Buyer held a meeting with
its customer and record their response on order quantity per color, size etc. And finally
place order to their vendor.
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2.1.3.6-Photo Sample:
Photo samples are made with actual color and material to be worn by the models on
the event of shooting for catalog.
2.1.3.7-Approval Sample:
In any discrete period of time, whenever it required any revision in the sample, a new
sample is made (sometimes mock-up is workable too) as per new specification. It is
sent to buyer for his approval of the conformity that-the revision is done correctly.
SIZE SET: Consists of 1 pc from each size for each color combination.
MOCK UP: Any part of the garment to make for particular purpose, not complete
garment Pre- Production Sample When material for bulk production arrived, factory
makes a sample with the actual material and sends to buyer.
2.1.3.8-Production Sample:
It is a reference to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specifications.
Buyer wants to be assured that correct material is sourced & line workmanship
conformed to the quality level.
2.1.3.9-Shipping Sample:
A sample is kept from every Pre-Shipping inspection to be referred, if required, after
the order has been delivered. Usually for any disputes (e.g. Claim) shipping samples
is important.
2.1.3.10-Responsibilities of sampling department:
Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
Checking pattern’s workability.
Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.
Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to
QC.
Minimizing operations and consumption.
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2.2.1-Spreading & Cutting department
2.2.2-Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Department:
Marker making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Marker placing on to the lay
↓
Cutting the fabric
↓
Numbering/Stickering
↓
Checking
↓
Sorting and Bundling
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2.2.3-Marker making:
Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of
Pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires
Time, skill and concentration)
The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is made with every pattern
placed with the “down” direction of the pattern in the same direction.
This mode is necessary for fabrics that are asymmetric.
All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down” direction, which is usually
toward the left edge (starting point where the legend is written).
The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but least efficient of the three
nap directions for a marker.
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is made where there is no
restriction of which way the pattern are oriented.
The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”, placed wherever they fit
best, only making sure that the patterns are on-grain.
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most efficient mode yielding the
highest fabric utilization.
The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than the
Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker.
In order to get a better fit between the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns are
oriented in opposite directions.
This method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.
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Factor of Marker making:
Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric
consumption as low as possible.
It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention.
These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending
to details such as drill holes and notches.
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company
may save or waste thousands of dollars a year.
Marker Efficiency:
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
2.2.4-Spreading:
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.
Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two
spreading operators (thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking
along both sides of cutting table.
While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and
machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric
in the process.
Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come
back to starting position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of
spreading machine is called as “dead heading”
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Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading
The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.
Difficult to achieve manually.
The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher,
at layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the
fabric is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also.
Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
Most time consuming method of spreading.
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls
along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree
and return back to starting position without.
Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.
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Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls
along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree
and start spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There
is no dead heading by the machine in this spreading mode.
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Vertical blade
Reciprocates up and down
Corners and curves can be cut accurately
Most versatile and commonly used
Blades length - 6 to 14 inches
Spread depth depends on blade length & adjustable height of the blade guard
All of the pieces cut from a lay are identical
2.2.6-Stickering:
Sticker carry details : style no, size, ply no, bundle no., date issued
Operations may be incorporated for payment purposes, control of work and
facilitating quality control
2.2.7-Checking:
Here all the cutting parts have to check properly. Find out the faults and take apart
from here and cut same part of the garment in same shade.
2.2.8-Sorting&Bundiling:
Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
Bundle ticket consists of:
Order no
Bundle no
Quantity
Style no
Size
Section
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2.3.1-Sewing department
Process Flow Chart for Garments Sewing Department:
Product analysis
↓
Set up target for production
↓
Set up machine layout on the basis of target
↓
Set up operator layout on the basis of target
↓
Line balancing
↓
Line setup
↓
Distribution all the processes
↓
Cutting parts received section
↓
Cutting parts distribution to the operator and helper
↓
Complete parts making individually
↓
Line QC check
↓
Line quality audit
↓
Counting output and checking with the target
↓
Final quality check (for each Garment)
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2.3.1.1-Production system:
Progressive bundle system-
Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the bundle and passes
it to the next operator.
There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter-process
work between each operation.
The work is routed by means of tickets.
This system is the most widely used system in the garment industry today. It is
used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
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Unit production system
A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.
It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move
individual units from work-station to work station for assembly.
All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line
together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead
conveyor.
Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the
carrier.
Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying
and untying, and manually moving garment parts.
Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and
inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data
for prompt decision.
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2.3.1.2-Sewing Sequence of T-shirt:
Left side shoulder joining
↓
Neck piping
↓
Piping joining
↓
Right side shoulder joining
↓
Neck Chap tack
↓
Main labeling joining
↓
Sleeve hem
↓
Sleeve joining
↓
Arm hole chap tack
↓
Main label joining
↓
Bottom hem
Sewing Sequence of tank top
1st shoulder joining
↓
Neck piping
↓
2nd shoulder inside tack
↓
2nd shoulder joining
↓
2nd shoulder outside tack
↓
Label making
↓
Label attaching
↓
Armhole piping
↓
Armhole inside tack
↓
Side seam
↓
Bottom hem
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2.3.1.3-Seams:
The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.
To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or
characteristics closely allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type
together with the correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end
product is of paramount importance.
Classification of seams:
Superimposed seam
Lap seam
Bound seam
Flat seam
Edge finishing
2.3.1.4-Stitch classification:
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2.4.1-Quality Assurance department
2.4.1.1-Responsibilities of quality department
To impart quality in the product.
To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials,
partially finished components of the garments and completely finished
garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well
as measuring the garments to check if they meet the required measurements.
2.4.1.2-Inspection terms:
Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot
or batch, the units of the sample being selected at random without regards to
their quality. The number of units of a product in the sample is the sample size.
Lot or batch: Means ‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’ that is a collection of
units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected.
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Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a
lot or batch
Percent defective = Number of defectives
-------------------------------------× 100
Number of units inspected
2.4.1.3-Identification of defects:
Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause
the item to be second.
Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as a
second either because of severity or location.
Second: A ‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the
salability or serviceability of the item.
Cutting defects:
Frayed edges
Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges
Ply-to-ply fusion
Single-edge fusion
Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut
Notches
Drills
Sewing defects:
Needle Damage
Feed Damage
Skipped stitches
Thread breaks
Broken stitches
Seam grin
Seam pucker
Pleated seams
Wrong stitch density
Uneven stitch density
Staggered stitch
Improperly formed stitches
Oil spots or stains
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Seaming defects:
Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
Insecure back stitching
Twisted seam
Mismatched checks or stripes
Mismatched seam
Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the
seam
Reversed garment part
Blind stitching showing on the face side
Wrong seam or stitch type used
Wrong shade of thread used
Checks for final inspection:
Open seams
Skipped stitches
Cracked stitches
Stitches/inch
Uneven seams
Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams
Needle and feed cuts
Unclipped threads and Long ends
Raw edge
Snaps, fasteners, buttons
Labels
Elastic
Measurements
Mends or repairs
Stripe
Hems
Trim
Broken needle
Distortion
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2.4.1.4-AQL: Accepted quality level:
The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling
inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates
will be accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be
used.
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2.5.1.-Finishing & Packaging department
2.5.1.1-About Finishing
Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final
look.
In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes.
It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment
free from defects.
Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.
2.5.1.2-Operations performed at finishing stage:
Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed
garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut
threads.
Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains: Oil, yellow, black and
paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks, yellow stains,
and hard stains
Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum
boards.
Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing
equipment’s.
Tagging and packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing
section. It is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagging
operators with the appropriate price and brand tags. He also instructs the
tagging operator as to where and how the tag has to be placed. The most
important thing to be kept in mind while placing the tag is to match the size
mentioned on the main label and the size on tag. The step after the tagging is
to pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer.
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2.5.1.3-Presentation checking and cartoon packing
First Checkers check the packed garments for the following things:
Poly bags are as per specification.
Tags and price stickers are as per specification.
Packing is secured or not if specified.
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
Hangers are there or not if specified.
Garment has been folded as per specification etc.
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following
things are kept in mind during carton packing:
Number of garments to be packed in one carton.
Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1
Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.
Closing the cartons with cello tape.
Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.
Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio,
net weight of the carton etc.
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2.7-IE
Industrial Engineering - A New Concept of Apparel Engineering
2.7.1-Industrial engineering: It is concerned with the development, improvement,
implementation and evaluation of integrated systems of people, money, knowledge,
information, equipment, energy, materials, analysis and synthesis, as well as the
mathematical, physical and social sciences together with the principles and methods
of engineering design to specify, predict, and evaluate the results to be obtained from
such systems or processes
2.7.2-Nature of the Work Industrial engineers determine the most effective ways for
an organization to use the basic factors of production - people, machines, materials,
information, and energy - to make or process a product or produce a service. They are
the bridge between management goals and operational performance. They are more
concerned with increasing productivity through the management of people, methods
of business organization, and technology than are engineers in other specialties, who
generally work more with products or processes.
To solve organizational, production, and related problems most efficiently, industrial
engineers
Study the product and its requirements
Use mathematical methods to meet product requirements
Design manufacturing and information systems
Develop management control systems for financial planning and cost analysis
Design production planning and control systems to coordinate activities and
control product quality
Design or improve systems for the physical distribution of goods and services
Determine which plant location has the best combination of raw materials
availability, transportation, and costs
Develop wage and salary administration systems and job evaluation programs
2.7.3-SMV
o Meaning of the Abbreviation- Standard Minute Value
o It should be expressed always in Minutes
o Time taken by a standard operator to complete any given operation/s with pre-
defined conditions
o BSI 100= 100% performance operator is the standard operator
2.7.4-Uses Of SMV:
1. Making Production Plan
2. Target setting
3. Factory Efficiency Setting
4. Capacity Plan
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2.7.5- I’m attaching some formula for Industrial engineering:-
1. SMV
SMV = Basic time + (Basic time × Allowance)
2. Basic time
Basic time = Observed time × Rating
3. Observed time
Observed time = Total Cycle time / No of cycle
4. Rating
Rating = (Observed Rating ×Standard rating) / Standard rating
5. Daily output
Daily output = Work hour / SMV
6. Efficiency=
7. Production=
8. Man power=
9. Minute=
10. Factory capacity
Factory capacity = (Work hour / SMV) ×Total worker × Working day * Efficiency
11. CPM
CPM = (Total overhead cost of the month / No of SMV earners Work minutes)
×Efficiency
12. Required no of operator
Required no of operator = Target daily output / Daily output per operator
𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽
𝑴𝒂𝒏 𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓×𝑴𝒊𝒏𝒖𝒕𝒆
× 𝟏𝟎𝟎
𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽
𝑺𝑴𝑽
× 𝟏𝟎𝟎
𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽
𝐄𝐟𝐟𝐢𝐜𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐲×𝑴𝒊𝒏𝒖𝒕𝒆
× 𝟏𝟎𝟎
𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽
𝑴𝒂𝒏 𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓×𝒆𝒇𝒇𝒊𝒄𝒊𝒆𝒏𝒄𝒚
× 𝟏𝟎𝟎
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2.8 Merchandising
2.8.1-Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the
merchandise on time taking into consideration the 4 R’s of expediting Right Cost, Right
Quantity, Right Quality and Right Time.
2.8.2-Functions of Merchandisers:
Costing
Programming.
Yarn Procurement Arrangements.
Production Scheduling (or) Route CARD Drafting.
Accessories arrangement (order placing follow-ups).
Approval of various processor’s sewing operations and finishing processes.
Pattern approval (or) Dummy size set approval.
Size set approval.
Preproduction sample follow-ups.
Pilot run inspection.
In process inspection.
Production controlling.
Identifying shortages and make arrangements for the shortages.
Shortage quantity and quality following quality control procedures.
Following quality assurance procedures.
Maintaining the junior’s activities of in house and sub-contractor units.
Buyer communication.
Communication with production units, processing units and other third party’s
(vendors).
Proper reporting.
Highlighting to the management.
Record maintenance (Records pertaining to merchandising).
Developing samples.
Placement of orders.
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Taking measures for consistent production.
Taking preventive actions to maintain the targeted Performance level in all areas of
merchandising.
Attending meetings with superiors and furnishing the required details about
merchandising.
1. Sample order execution:
After the receipt of the Specification, pertaining to the sample order, the merchandiser
has to understand what the requirements of buyers are. Sometimes there may be
amendments related to any of the specifications in the sample order sheet. It is the
duty of the merchandiser to execute sample order and dispatch on time the “Right
quality.”
2. Costing:
The merchandisers should know the following details while costing.
Yarn cost.
Process cost (Knitting, Bleaching, and Raising etc.)
Rates pertaining to various sewing operations.
CMT (Cut Make Trim) Rate.
Ironing charges, packing charges and accessories rate.
Overheads.
Shortage (or) wastage 3%.
Free on Board (FOB) (Transport charges) 2% to 3%.
Insurance 2%-3%,
Buyers’ agents commission 5%-6%,
Quota rate per garment.
Profit 15% - 20%
3. Programming:
Most probably programming is done by production manager. In some companies it is
done by the merchandisers. The following factors considered in programming.
1. Allowances:
Fabric structure
Dia. fixation (knitting dia., calendaring dia. and compacting dia.)
Process loss (shrinkage etc.)
Size wise piece weight
Extra quantity required
Size wise requirement (dia., colour (or) combination)
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4. Route card Drafting (or) Production Scheduling:
For each and every order Route card (or) Production scheduling is to be done by the
merchandisers. It facilitates the merchandiser to follow up the orders in planned
manner. The following details (or) aspects should be considered in drafting (or)
scheduling.
Design
No. of sewing operations
No.of processes
despatcher date
No. of Components
Type of stitches
Order quantity
Production capacity of the in houses (or) sub-contractors unit and processing units.
Prioritizing the other factors
Targeted dates for various processes (or) stages of merchandising.
Actual finishing date (To cross check the deviation between the planning and actual
performance any stage (or) Process). Targeted dates for all the stages of
merchandising should be decided. Actual dates on which a particular process (or)
operation is actually done should also be entered in production scheduling. The
merchandisers are accountable for the deviation.
5. Accessories arrangements:
Merchandiser has to make arrangements for the timely delivery of the required
accessories to the
Concerned units. Accessories requisition slip may be used for requirement purpose.
The merchandiser has to cross check the actual requirements after verifying the
details furnished in accessories requisition form. After the receipt of accessories
quality check will be done.
6. Approvals:
Approval is an authentication of all required conformances related to a process (or) an
operation. The merchandisers should know the quality parameters of various
processes and sewing operations before approvals. There should not heron
conformities. Evidences for approval should be cross checked to confirm that all the
approvals having made properly.
7. Approval of various processes sewing operations and finishing processes:
The various process of sewing operations and finishing process such as patter
making, cutting,
Sewing, ironing will be approved by the technical merchandisers
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8. Pattern approvals:
Patterns should be approved for
Measurement
Style and fit
Allowances
Accuracy of pattern
If there is any non-conformance in pattern that should be corrected before it is used in
production Pattern approval samples will be received from the concerned units and
approved by the approval department (or) merchandisers, If there is non-conformance
in any size sample revised sample for that size should be againsubmitted for approval.
9. Size set approvals:
Size set approvals are made by the approval department or) by the merchandisers.
All the quality
Parameters related to various processes, sewing operations have to be cross
checked. The below
Mentioned aspects should be considered.
Measurements
Aesthetics
Process quality
GSM
Piece shrinkage
Washing fastness of the piece
Sewing operation quality
Print (or) embroidery position
Labeling instructions.
Size set approval seat will be prepared in triplicate.
Washing fastness of garment should be verified.
Shrinkage in garment can also be verified.
11. Pre-production samples:
This samples should he submitted on time to the concerned person (Buyers, buyer
agents office buying office). All the quality parameters have to be verified. In case of
non-conformances it will be mentioned in the approval sheet by the concerned
persons. Sometime we may have to submit the revised samples after the required
rectifications.
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11. Pilot run inspection:
Pilot run denotes the first production garments quality parameters are verified and
preventive measures can be taken. The follow up team should do pilot run inspection
to identify the various defects and it will be rectified in production.
12. In process inspection:
In process means in between any process (or) sewing operation (or) any activities
related to execution of an order. We can have procedures for frequency and adequacy.
In case of major non- conformities we have to highlight the problems of quality at the
right time to the right person without fail. Consistent follow up inspection is a must to
confirm that all the required quality procedures are adopted by the concerned units
and preventive actions are taken to enhance the performance.
13. Production controlling:
Controlling should be right from the operative level also. Efforts should be taken to
control the nonconformities during production. Consistent supervision is essential to
control the non-conformances. Periodical quality check should be done after an hour.
14. Shortage problem:
The merchandiser has to identify the shortages of any material that is yarn, fabric,
accessories etc. right at the initial stages. After identifying the shortages steps are to
be taken for the arrangement of required materials on time. In case of shortages also
we have to follow the quality control and quality assurance procedure without fail.
Quality of the material should not be compromised.
15. Following quality control procedures:
In some companies written quality procedures are available in quality manual. The
merchandiser has to know all the procedures of quality control. In all processes and
operations quality procedures should be followed very strictly. It has to inculcate the
importance of procedures to subordinates, in house units (or) own units, and sub-
contractors.
Following quality assurance procedures:
All the required test procedures (as required by the buyer) should be followed very
strictly without partiality. Evidences for testing (test reports) tested samples, tested
swatches, tested accessories) should be maintained properly. Before cutting, the
merchandiser has to confirm that the concerned unit has got all the required approvals
properly from the authorized person.
16. Monitoring the junior activities:
The merchandiser has to monitor his sub-ordinates. He has to teach to the
subordinates about the quality procedures. He has to give instructions to them before
going for factory visits. He has to discuss the various activities to be executed on a
particular day. The merchandiser has to control the activities of the subordinates so
that the performance of the followed team is good.
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17. Monitoring the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units:
The merchandiser has to monitor the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor
units. He has to confirm that all the quality control procedures and quality assurance
procedures are followed up properly by them (or) not. He has to inculcate the
importance of adopting quality procedures to attain the planned performance level.
18. Buyer communication:
The merchandiser has to go through the faxes coming from buyers and he has to send
reply on time. Sometimes he has to furnish the production status of a particular order
to the concerned buyer on time. The below mentioned are some of the duties of buyer
communication,
Sample execution
Amendments
Comments on the send samples
Sample order sheet
Buyer visit
Production status
Sending sample, swatches, Accessories regarding the approvals.
19. Communication with others:
The merchandiser has to interact with in-house units, sub-contractors, vendors and
job workers of various processing. Through proper interaction only we make
arrangements for the timely supply of the required materials to the concerned persons.
He has to know the production status from various units which will be helpful in proper
follow and proper importing.
20. Proper Reporting:
The merchandiser has to furnish (or) best the report to the right person at the right
time. He has to give reports for the below mentioned activities
Sample execution
Approvals
Testing procedures
Production status
Programming
Shortage details
Inspection details arid status.
Production status for meting etc.
Report from inspection agencies, testing labs
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21. High Lighting:
The merchandiser has to highlight the major problems in merchandising at the right
time without fail. Highlighting will facilitate the superiors to take the necessary steps to
tackle the problems on time. Proper decision is made due to timely highlighting.
22. Record maintenance:
The merchandiser has to maintain quality records pertaining to various buyer orders.
Proper filing should he done, who can utilize the services of subordinates in record
maintenance. The below mentioned are some examples.
Sample details
Sample Inspection Reports
Testing Reports
Evidence of approvals
Proper filing (Buyer wise, order wise)
Pattern Approval sheet/size set approval sheet (copy)
Pilot run Inspection Report
Fabric Inspection report
Mid Inspection Report
Inspection report from buying office, buying agents and inspection agencies.
Test reports from inspection agencies and labs
Production status reports
Production status reports related to meetings
Pre-final inspection reports
Final inspection reports etc.
23. Developing samples:
Some buyers will give specifications (or) diagram (or) patterns from which you may
have to develop samples. Samples may be fabric with required knit structure (or)
garments with required specification. The merchandiser has to consider all the quality
parameters related to the samples to be developed. In case of nonconformities in the
samples developed, revised samples may be send for approval purpose. It is the duty
of the merchandiser to dispatch the developed samples on to the concerned buyers
by means of consistent follow-up.
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24. Placements of orders:
Priority is given to Approved sub-contractors after evaluation (when the production
capacity is not sufficient) order is placed to new manufacturers also orders can be
placed to in-house units also. In some companies, merchandiser is accountable (or)
responsible to find out the right manufacturers after proper evaluation. At the initial
stages small quantity order will be placed. After verifying their performance large
quantity orders will be placed. Yarn may be procured by the concerned unit (or) it may
be supplied by the supplier (the main manufacturer). In case of CMT order after the
confirmation of average piece weight of a particular size, processed fabric is delivered
to the concerned unit by the supplier.
25. Taking measures for consistent production:
It is the duty of the merchandiser to monitor the merchandising activities in accordance
with the production scheduling. He is accountable for the execution of each and every
process (or) an operation within the targeted time. He has to take the necessary step
for the consistent production by tackling the problems in merchandising. (e.g.)
Quality of yarn
Replacing good quality yarn
Consistent arrangement for fabric
Timely arrangements for the timely supply of accessories.
Shortage quantities follow up.
26. Preventive actions:
Detection of defects is not only the duty of merchandiser. He has to take preventive
actions to eliminate deviations in all the stages of merchandising.
27. Attending meetings with superiors:
Meetings may be conducted for general discussions about order execution (or) for
implementing new systems like ISO (or) it may be a status meeting. In case of
production status meeting the production details about various buyers’ order will be
collected by the merchandiser from different units and will furnished to superiors. The
merchandiser is accountable to answer the various questions raised by the superiors
pertaining to the execution of the allotted orders
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4. Maintenance
In the apparel industry, machine maintenance department is one that works silently.
They don’t get recognized much for their work. In the organized garment factories,
maintenance people work closely with Industrial Engineering department when it
comes for shop floor machine maintenance. In many factories management does not
concern about their performance. So machine mechanics just do their job to keep
machine running and always do breakdown maintenance.
A factory can gain substantial benefit by setting up defined work responsibility and
making list of activities to be done by maintenance department other than just repairing
machines when it breakdown.
Some of the tangible benefits of performing given activities well are
Reduced machine breakdown,
Lower maintenance cost
Lower product cost
Improved Machine performance
The maintenance activities can be broadly classified into two major categories, such
as machine breakdown maintenance and preventive maintenance. Main reasons of
frequent machine breakdown in shop floor include lack of maintenance, or use of spare
parts of substandard quality or faculty operations. Breakdown maintenance is always
undesirable because breakdown causes loss of production, man hours and revenue.
Machine breakdown disturbs the production of particular operations and subsequent
operations by delaying feeding.
To improve performance of the machine maintenance (mechanics) department,
factory should introduce preventive maintenance instead of following breakdown
maintenance.
Following activities are necessary to improve machine performance.
Prepare a checklist – Prepare a check list what all things they need to do daily basis.
They should have plan for scheduled machine maintenance plan with other works.
Like, planning for machine requirement, attachment, guides and presser foots required
for next style.
Prepare Maintenance schedule - The first step is setting up the preventive
maintenance program is proper scheduling of the maintenance plan. Make a database
of all types of sewing machines and other machines you have in the factory. Other
machines like cutting machines, pressing tables, irons etc. You must have machine
numbers on each machine types. Keep account of number of machines operational
and number of machines those are not in use.
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Make machine maintenance card and hang this cards on each machine to stop
forgetting and missing checking of any machine on the scheduled date. Include list of
thing to check in the machine maintenance card. See the fig for example. Improving
awareness and motivating maintenance team – In sewing factory maintenance
department involved in providing machine pressure foots, work guides and
attachment. Industrial engineering department need to share style information and list
of machines, attachment and guides required for the upcoming orders with production
schedule of the upcoming orders with maintenance department.
If factory is giving incentive to sewing operators and other staff, maintenance
department need to be included under performance incentive scheme.
Prepare maintenance of records and reports. Accurate recording of the day to day
maintenance work is essential for exercising effective control over the maintenance
program, planning, the replacement and procurement of store and spares.
Initiate making record of machine breakdown time daily, type of machines that got
breakdown, time required to repair or restart the machine. This record will help you to
find top 20% machines that cause 80% of machine breakdown.
4.1-OPERATION INVOLVED in MAINTENANCE:
Setting: Setting is the activities to set or install the machine parts or required
ancillaries. Adjustment also complementary word to setting used for appropriate
setting.
Checking: Checking means investigation of machine condition. It is very important
work in case of maintenance. It is very skilled depends work as successful
maintenance that depends on correct fault detection.
Repairing: Repairing or altering of spares & equipment (if necessary) is to be detected
& necessary measures are taken (repairingalteringsettingadjustment) .
Overhauling: It is the work of maintenance, but not frequent or schedule work. It is
done as per as necessary.
4.2-TYPES of MAINTENANCE:
1. Preventive maintenance.
2. Productive maintenance.
3. Routineschedule maintenance. (Cleaning, checking, lubricating)
4. Remedial maintenance.
5. Restorative maintenanceemergency maintenance.
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5. Conclusion
In conclusion I can say that this internship report is really essential for every student
of Textile engineering to get idea about textile industry. By completing this report I
have got overall idea of RMG sector and these may be helpful to know about the
technical and management knowledge of garments industry also these sector related
organizations. This is a huge sector and yet to discover the whole.
I want to thank my department Head & my Supervisor for giving me great opportunity
of learning. This Internship program will help me in the further challenges of life. I try
my best to make this project enriched with lots of apparel related documents. JANN
GROUP MILLS LTD. is really a good experience for me because every person of there
so much helpful and give me the proper methods of practical learning. So, at last, there
is a hope of eradicating all the obstacles and become the leader of garment industries
in near future.
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1. www.nhk-ast.com.
2. http://textilecalculation.blogspot.com
3. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com
4. textileapex.blogspot.com
5. www.denimjeans.com
6. http://apparelmerchandisingworld.blogspot.com