This document provides information on extending the growing season in Northern Rhode Island. It discusses growing season, hardiness zones, climate, and microclimates. Various techniques are presented for growing crops into late fall and winter through succession planting, selecting hardy varieties, and creating protected microclimates using methods like raised beds, mulching, row covers, high tunnels, and greenhouses. Planning, record keeping, and trial and error are emphasized to successfully grow food year-round.

1. Northern RI Conservation District Red Planet
Vegetables

2. Growing Season: The part of the year where temperature and
rainfall allow plants to grow. For the purposes of this
workshop, growing season refers to frost‐free days.
Hardiness Zone: Geographically defined area where certain
plants are capable of growing
Climate: The weather conditions of a certain area over a long
period
Microclimate: The climate within a small, specific space as
contrasted with the climate of the surrounding area (i.e.. the
area in close proximity around a plant or row of plants).
Days to Maturity: The number of days between planting a
seed and the harvest of that crop.

3. •May 8th‐ October 3rd
•Plant Hardiness Zone 6
•147 frost‐free days in
2011
•120 days with a
minimum temperature
of 32 degrees and below
(on average)

5. •Grow summer crops that
can be harvested through
the late fall
•Grow hardy crops that
can be harvested all winter
in altered microclimates
•Plant crops later that will
be ready to harvest in the
spring
It’s all about PLANNING, CREATING
MICROCLIMATES, CHOOSING THE RIGHT
PLANTS

6. •What do you want to get out of
your garden?
•Do you want to keep it going
through the fall and save what’s
already growing?
•Do you want to harvest all
winter?
•Where will the garden be
located?
•What crops do you want to
plant?
•Do you need to create a
protected microclimate?
•Make a map!

9. To extend your summer garden well into the fall,
plant later in the season
•Plant early‐maturing plants (30 days to maturity) in mid‐
September

10. •Plant mid‐season maturing plants (60 days to maturity)
in mid‐ August
•Plant late‐season maturing plants (90 days to maturity)
in mid‐ July
*Give yourself 5‐10 extra days to maturity when planting later in the
season

11. Select plants that are winter hardy and thrive in the cold
and adjusted microclimates for your winter garden:
When directly seeded in fall, these plants can over‐winter
outside. If they germinate and grow quickly, they may be
killed by the cold.
* Days to maturity is greatly increased due to winter
climates, even in protected microclimates

12. Plan when you want to harvest the crops that you want to
grow and plant accordingly
Succession Plantings
Plan your season now using readily available tools on the internet
Planting Date Calculator
Harvesting Date Calculator
Succession Planting
(see NRICD.org for links)
Keep records!
Save seed packets with notes!
Learn from trial and error!
Every year is different!
Don’t get discouraged!

13. A microclimate is small, but distinctly different climate
within the greater area that surrounds it
Not just increasing the temperature!
•Using south‐facing slopes
•Protection from the wind using
hedgerows and shrubs & snow fence
•Planting in raised beds
•Using mulch to protect roots and shoots
•Planting along stone walls to trap ambient
heat
•Using other methods to increase plant
temperature, increase sun exposure, protect
from wind, and maintain moisture

14. •Mulching using leaves or wood chips to protect plants
•Using raised beds to increase soil temperature
•Amending the soil with compost: thermal decay of highly
organic soil
•Use hay to cover leeks and carrots

15. •Using Row covers for added protection from the
elements
•Also protect crops from insects and other pests
•Use spun‐bonded, lightweight fabrics for best results

16. •Grow at summer
speed through
November, then
plants semi‐
hibernate
•Equivalent of
moving plants 1 ½
USDA zones south
•Must ventilate
when inner
temperature is
around 70
degrees, or after
March 1st.
Make with recycled materials that
you already have, such as old
windows, plastic sheets and wood!

17. •Generally under 6 feet tall
•Can use plastic or metal to make hoops
•Cover with spun‐bound fabric or UV resistant plastic dependant on
need
•Fully secure in areas with lots of snow using sandbags and tie‐downs

18. •Mainly unheated, non‐mechanically ventilated, generally
greater than 6 feet tall
•Sold as kits, plant directly in the ground
•Unheated, 6‐7 degrees warmer than outside
•Funding may be available for extending your growing season
using High Tunnels through NRCS

19. •Permanent
structures
•Usually heated
•Many times has a
concrete floor
•Maintain summer
growing conditions
year‐round
•Expensive to
maintain!

20. •Use any combination of row covers, low tunnels and high
tunnels.
•Can be equivalent of moving plants 3 USDA zones
warmer

21. •Soil health and fertility
•Don’t Guess! Soil Test!
•Availability of water
•Availability of electricity
•Availability of materials
•Ventilation
•Enough light
•Budget
•Time

23. •For more information, please refer to
the Northern RI Conservation District
website at:
www.NRICD.org
You will find a list of reference materials
including:
Books
Links to Websites
This PowerPoint

24. For More Information:
Kate Sayles, Northern RI Conservation District
(401) 934‐0840
Ksayles.nricd@verizon.net
Justin Tuthill, USDA‐NRCS
(401)822‐8839
Justin.Tuthill@ri.usda.gov
Matt Tracy, Red Planet Vegetables
marsfarmer@yahoo.com