1. Crop Rotations for
Vegetables and Cover
Crops
©Pam Dawling 2014
Twin Oaks Community,
Central Virginia
Author of Sustainable Market Farming
Published by New Society Publishers
SustainableMarketFarming.com
facebook.com/SustainableMarketFarming

2. What’s in This Presentation
• Twin Oaks Gardens and crop rotations
• Rotation planning for our permanent raised beds
• 7 step rotation planning for our row crops, steps 1-4
• A useful format for rotation plans
• A walk around our crop rotation
• Steps 5-7 of rotation planning
• Pros and cons of tight rotation planning
• Resources and contact info

3. Twin Oaks Gardens
We garden 3.5 acres of land,
producing vegetables and
berries for 100 people all
year at Twin Oaks Community.
We have a mixed garden
system:
• 60 permanent raised beds,
each 4' × 90' (1.2 × 27.4 m),
• 10 plots of 9,000–10,600 ft2
(836–985 m2), in three
areas of row gardens.

4. Crop Rotations Bring Many Benefits
Maximize productivity,
Optimize the health and fertility of the land,
Reduce pests and diseases,
Increase opportunities to plant cover crops,
Meet Organic Certification requirements,
Make the planning work easier on the brain.

5. Before Planning a Rotation
Decide how your farming will support you
Decide what you want to grow
Figure out how much of what you need
Have an idea of when to plant each crop.
Planning is definitely circular, but you need to
start somewhere!

6. Permanent
raised beds
Photo Kathryn Simmons
• We cultivate the 60 beds manually and with a walk-behind tiller.
• We don’t use a permanent rotation plan - we like the extra
flexibility of our ad hoc method.
• We use the space very intensively and get high yields.
• We plant a new crop as soon as we clear an old one.
• Some beds will get two or three crops in one season.
• If we have a 4-week gap in the summer, we grow buckwheat; if 6
weeks, we add soy to the buckwheat.

7. Photo Kathryn Simmons
We use the beds
for:
• Crops we grow in small quantities (celery, okra),
• Very short-term crops (like lettuce),
• Things we need to cosset (eggplant, because of the flea beetles, or early
muskmelons),
• Experimental crops we want to keep a close eye on
• Things that wouldn’t fit anywhere else.
• Over-wintering crops we keep long after the rest of the gardens are in
winter cover crops (kale, collards and leeks) - the raised beds are more
accessible for winter harvesting.
• Very early crops such as peas - the beds can be cultivated earlier than the
flat gardens.

8. Raised Bed Planning
• Twice a year:
– in the winter for the crops planted before the end of July
– in mid-June for the crops for the second half of the year.
• This two-part planning allows us the flexibility to respond to
unexpected situations:
– crop failures,
– sudden needs for more of something sooner than we’d
planned,
– something taking longer than expected to reach maturity.
• A vital tool for this is our Colored Spots Plan, an outline map
of the raised beds that shows the history of the crops planted
in each one.

9. The Colored
Spots Plan
helps us see
at a glance
which crops
have
been
planted
where in
recent years

10. Vegetable Sudoku
We make a chart of how many beds of which crops
we want, divided by family, along with the planting
date and final harvest date.
The amounts we hope to plant come from the
previous planning stages.
We try to have two or three years’ gap before the
same crop family returns to a bed.
We shoehorn in more crops during the season
than we otherwise could.
Sometimes this process leads to the sad
realization that everything we want isn’t possible

11. Photo Kathryn Simmons  Sometimes it leads to a more
creative solution - five rows of
carrots in a bed rather than four;
planting lettuce as we remove
spinach, working along the bed.
 We always have to do some
backtracking and fudging of the
rotation to a less-than-perfect
match, but we do end up with a
plan that uses the beds fully.
 It might be a more efficient use
of time to use a fixed rotation,
but this flexible approach is a
more efficient use of land.

12. The Row Gardens
The main part of our garden is in three patches, with
rows 180, 200, or 265 feet (55, 61, or 81 meters)
long.
• Initial cultivation is with a tractor and disks.
– We also have a manure spreader for compost
a seed drill for cover crops & a potato digger.
• For some crops we create temporary raised beds,
• Other crops are grown in rows “on the flat.”
• Here we use our ten-year rotation, growing
– major crops
– most of our succession crops of beans, squash and cucumbers.
• It’s a ten-year plan that rotates crops - it isn’t ten years
between corn plantings or potato plantings.

13. Steps to Creating a
Permanent Rotation
1. Figure out how much area is needed for each
major crop (the ones needing the largest
amount of space).
2. Measure and map the land available
3. Divide into equal plots
4. Group compatible crops together to fill each plot
5. Determine a good sequence
6. Include cover crops
7. Try it for one year, then make improvements

14. Step 1. Space Needed for Major Crops
• Sweet corn: 6 or 7 plantings of about 3,500 ft2 (322 m2) each
• Spring planted potatoes: about 7,000–9,000 ft2 (644–828 m2)
• Summer planted potatoes: about 7,000–9,000 ft2 (644–828 m2)
• Spring broccoli & cabbage: 4,000 ft2 (368 m2)
• Fall broccoli & cabbage: 7,000 ft2 (644 m2)
• Winter squash: about 8,200 ft2 (736 m2)
• Watermelon: about 9,000 ft2 (828 m2)
• Sweet potatoes: about 4,300 ft2 (396 m2)
• Tomatoes: 4,000 ft2 (368 m2)
• Peppers: 2,200 ft2 (202 m2)
• Garlic: about 3,600–4,000 ft2 (332–368 m2)
• Fall carrots: about 3,600–4,000 ft2 (332–368 m2)

15. Step 2.
Measure
and Map:
 East Garden
227’ x 265’
(Includes
asparagus in half
of one plot)
Map shows
plots of 9,275-
10,600 ft2

16. Twin Oaks Community Gardens

17. Step 3. Divide the Land into Equal
Plots
In our gardens, the 7,000–9,000 ft2 (644–828
m2) crops (spring planted potatoes, summer
planted potatoes, fall broccoli & cabbage,
winter squash, watermelon) will naturally
each fill one plot in our rotation,
so that was a good size to aim for in setting
plot size.
This size produced 10 plots, suggesting a ten
part rotation

18. Step 4. Group Other Crops Together
to Use About the Same Area:
 Two or three corn
plantings together in one
plot
 (3,500 ft2 (322 m2) each)
 Spring broccoli together
with overwintered garlic
 (4,000 ft2 (368 m2) +
 3,600–4,000 ft2 (332–368 m2 ))
 Tomatoes together with
peppers
 4,000 ft2 (368 m2) +
2,200 ft2 (202 m2)
Left to right: Broccoli under rowcover, garlic,
strawberries.
Photo Kathryn Simmons
Before step 5, we’ll look at charting rotations and take a walk down our garden paths

19. How to chart your rotation plan
In 1996, inspired by
Eliot Coleman’s New
Organic Grower, we
used cards to represent
each major crop.
We modified Eliot’s
method, and put the
cards in a circle, like a
clock face with “hours,”
and set about
imagining a good
sequence.
Crop rotations are a
cycle, and a circular
design makes more
intuitive sense to us,
than a linear format.
Squash
Corn
Potatoes
Corn
Broccoli
Cabbage
Tomatoes
Water
melon
Corn
Potatoes

20. Having the rotation in a useful format
We drew up our ten year rotation on a piece of
card with a small central disk attached by a brass
paperclip so it can rotate each year to show
which crops will be planted in which plots. We
call this our Rotation Pinwheel
We are still using the same piece of card we
made in 1996, even though we started our
second ten year sequence in 2006. It has seen
quite a bit of White-Out!
For my book, the publishers’ re-drew it tidily.

23. Walk Around our Rotation
Year 1. Winter Squash followed by Rye
and Austrian Winter Peas
• 8200 sq ft of winter squash will
satisfy our needs. That fills one
plot.
• Winter squash are sown in late
May, so there is time for a legume
winter cover crop to reach
flowering before we need to prep
the soil for the squash.
• We have one other main crop also
in the cucurbit family: watermelon,
so we plan to keep that distant
time-wise in the rotation
• Winter squash finishes on our farm
on Halloween, early enough to
include crimson clover or Austrian
Winter Peas in the following cover
crop mix

24. Year 2. Late Sweet Corn
and Sweet Potatoes
• Our late (6th) corn sowing and our
sweet potatoes are both planted
late in the season. Having them
share a plot works in terms of
allowing the preceding crimson
clover or Austrian winter pea
cover crop time to flower.
• Late corn can be under-sown with
oats and soy to provide a winter
cover crop that is easily
incorporated before the potato
planting next March.
• The sweet potatoes finish in
October, too late to sow oats
before next year’s spring
potatoes. So we follow the sweet
potatoes with wheat.
Sweet potatoes and late corn.
Photo Bridget Aleshire

25. Year 3. Spring Potatoes Followed by
Fall Brassicas
• Potatoes are said to do well after
corn, so we put our spring
potatoes after the previous
year’s late corn, and our summer
potatoes after the previous
year’s middle corn planting.
• We harvest the potatoes in early
July, till in compost and
immediately transplant our fall
broccoli and cabbage.
• We undersow the fall brassicas
with a mix of clovers (white, red
and crimson) about a month
after transplanting. This becomes
Year 4’s All Year Green Fallow.
Potatoes emerging in spring. Photo Kathryn Simmons

26. Year 4. All Year Green Fallow
 The clover sown under the fall
brassicas grows all next year, if all
goes well.
 We have contingency plans:
 In spring, once the warm weather has
arrived, if the weeds are too bad, or
the clover stand not thick enough, we
turn the clover under and sow
sorghum-sudangrass hybrid with soy.
This gets mowed to a foot (30 cm)
when the sorghum-sudan is four feet
(1.2 m) tall, to encourage deeper
rooting for better soil drainage, and
can stay until killed by the frost.
 If the plot is looking good, we let the
clover grow all summer, mowing to
prevent the clover seeding.
 In August, we review again: if we still
have the clover we may turn it under
and sow oats. Or we may leave it over
winter.
Fall broccoli under-sown with clovers

27. Year 5. Early Sweet Corn,
Half Followed by Garlic
• We get two food crops
in year 3 and none in
year 4. The Green
Fallow is ready for
disking early in year 5 to
plant our first sweet
corn.
• The early corn can be
followed by fall garlic.
Sweet corn under-sown with soybeans.
Photo Kathryn Simmons

28. Year 5-6. Sweet Corn → Oats
→Garlic →Buckwheat →Carrots
A tight rotation:
 After early corn in year 5, we
sow oats and divide the plot.
 We keep half for spring
broccoli in year 6.
 We mow the other half from
time to time until late fall
(year 5), then disk and plant
garlic.
 We harvest the garlic in June
of year 6, sow buckwheat and
soy,
 Then sow fall carrots in late
July or early August.
 That half-plot grows 3 food
crops in 2 years.
Garlic harvest, Photo Rayne Squier

29. Year 6. Spring Brassicas in the Other
Half.
Spring broccoli and cabbage can be
followed by rye, hairy vetch and Austrian
winter peas sown in early September, in
good time to grow a thick stand for no-till
tomatoes in year 7.
Photos Kathryn Simmons

30. Year 7. Paste Tomatoes and Peppers
• We mow the cover crop close
to the ground, let it wilt for a
day, then transplant paste
tomatoes and peppers into
the dead mulch in early May.
• The mulch does break down
after about six weeks, so then
we roll out bales of spoiled
hay between the rows.
• This crop doesn’t finish till the
frost, and we have all the
posts to remove before we can
sow a cover crop, so it is
usually rye with Austrian
winter peas.

31. Year 8. Watermelon
• Watermelons are not
planted till mid-May, so the
Austrian winter peas have
time to flower before we
disk the cover crop under in
preparation for planting.
• We have finished with
watermelon harvesting by
late September, so we disk
the plot and sow rye with
crimson clover for the winter
cover crop.
Crimson Sweet watermelon and morning glory. Photo
Kathryn Simmons

32. Year 9. Mid-season Sweet Corn
Mid-season corn is finished in time to establish rye and
crimson clover, which will do well and produce lots of
nitrogen and biomass before we need to plant the June
potatoes in year 10.
Three varieties of sweet corn sown on the same day, to extend the harvest.
Photo Kathryn Simmons

33. Year 10. Summer Potatoes
• Our second round of potatoes
are planted in mid-June, giving
the crimson clover plenty of
time to flower before we need
to disk and plant.
• To combat the heat of summer,
we hill and mulch the potatoes
immediately after planting.
• They are ready to harvest in
October, and we follow with rye
and crimson clover or Austrian
winter peas.
June-planted potatoes. Photo Kathryn Simmons

34. Step 5. Determine a good sequence
To decide which crop should follow which other crop, we
looked at the families of our major space users.
 We have 3 big plantings of nightshades (solanaceae): two
of potatoes and one of tomatoes and peppers together.
 2 (spring and fall) of brassicas,
 6 or 7 sowings of corn clustered into three plots,
 2 of cucurbits (winter squash and watermelons),
 1 of alliums (garlic),
 1 of umbelliferae (fall carrots)
 1 of ipomoea (sweet potatoes).

35. Give the Family Members Space!
• We spread the 3
corn plots 3 or 4
years apart,
• and the 3
nightshade
plantings
likewise.
• We kept the
winter squash 3
years after the
watermelon.
Squash
Corn
Potatoes
Corn
Broccoli
Cabbage
Tomatoes
Water
melon
Corn
Potatoes

36. Deciding the sequence
• Folklore says some crops do better following
certain other crops, but has it been tested?
• Potatoes are said to do well after corn, so we put
our spring potatoes after the previous year’s late
corn and our summer potatoes after the previous
middle corn planting.

37. Late Corn
undersown
with oats
March-
planted
Potatoes
Early Corn
followed by fall
Garlic (1/2)
and oats (1/2)
Garlic followed
by Carrots (1/2).
Spring Broccoli
& Cabbage,
then rye &
vetch (1/2)
No-till paste
Tomatoes
Mid-season
Corn, then rye
& crimson
clover
June-
planted
Potatoes
Still looking for homes:
winter squash, watermelon,
sweet potatoes, fall brassicas

38. Late Corn
undersown
with oats
March-planted
Potatoes, followed by
fall-planted broccoli &
cabbage, undersown
with clovers
All-year
Green
Fallow
Early Corn
followed by
fall Garlic
(1/2) and
oats (1/2)
Garlic followed
by Carrots (1/2).
Spring Broccoli
& Cabbage,
then rye &
vetch (1/2)
No-till paste
Tomatoes
Mid-season
Corn, then rye
& crimson
clover
June-
planted
Potatoes
Still looking for homes:
winter squash, watermelon,
sweet potatoes

39. Winter
Squash
Late Corn
undersown with
oats (1/2). Sweet
Potatoes (1/2)
March-planted
Potatoes, followed
by fall-planted
broccoli & cabbage,
undersown with
clovers
All-year
Green
Fallow
Early Corn
followed by
fall Garlic
(1/2) and
oats (1/2)
Garlic followed
by Carrots (1/2).
Spring Broccoli
& Cabbage,
then rye &
vetch (1/2)
No-till paste
Tomatoes
Water-
melon
Mid-season
Corn, then rye
& crimson
clover
June-
planted
Potatoes
Next, we’ll
look at cover
crops, for
good matches

40. Step 6. Cover Crops - Oats
 For early spring food crops,
a preceding cover crop of
oats (maybe with soybeans)
is ideal, as it winter-kills and
is easy to incorporate.
 Oats need to be sown at
our farm in August or early
September (by 9/17), so
they need to follow an
early finishing crop, such
as spring brassicas, spring
potatoes or early corn.
Photo Oklahoma Farm Report

41. No-till Cover
Crops  We plant our tomatoes and
peppers into a mowed cover crop
of winter rye, hairy vetch and
Austrian winter peas. Austrian
winter peas are said to reduce the
incidence of Septoria leaf spot in
following tomato crops, so we
now include them in our no-till
planting.
 This reduces inversions of the soil,
and the vetch (if plentiful) can
supply all the nitrogen the
tomatoes need.
 Rye and vetch is best sown here in
early to mid-September, creating
another restriction on which crops
the tomatoes could follow.
Winter rye and hairy vetch. Photo
Kathryn Simmons

42. Leguminous Cover Crops
To get best value from crimson clover,
we need to wait until it flowers —
mid-April at the very earliest — before
turning it under.
So after crimson clover it’s best if the
next food crop goes in after the end of
April, such as later corn plantings,
winter squash, transplanted
watermelon, tomatoes, sweet
potatoes or June-planted potatoes.
Another factor is that crimson clover is
best sown here before October 14, so
it has to follow a crop that is finished
by then.
Crimson clover flower, Photo Kathryn Simmons

43. Late Fall Cover Crops
Austrian Winter Peas can be sown as late as
11/8 here, so we add them to our later rye
and wheat cover crop sowings.
 Photo FifthSeasonGardening.com
Winter wheat is easier to
incorporate into the soil
in spring, but winter rye
can be planted later than
any other cover crop.

44. Popping in Summer Cover Crops
 If we have a four week
gap between crops in
warm weather, we
sow buckwheat.
 If we have 6 weeks, we
sow soy with
buckwheat.
 Japanese Millet
 Sorghum-sudangrass
Shown here after mowing.
Photo Kathryn Simmons

45. Cover Crop Opportunities
 In spring, summer or fall,
between one vegetable crop and
a later one
 In fall, after vegetable crops, for
winter
 Undersowing at last cultivation
(oats and soybeans in corn shown
here.)
 Frost-seeding of small seeds such
as clover: broadcast in the early
morning, when ground is frozen.
As it thaws, the water draws the
seeds down into the soil. Works
well for clovers.
 Late winter or early spring, if the
area will not be planted with
vegetable crop until late spring.
We use oats.
 To replace a crop failure.
Photo Kathryn Simmons

46. Fitting the Cover Crop With the Goal
 Smothering weeds: sorghum-sudan, cereal rye, buckwheat,
brassicas (we don’t do brassica cover crops – rotation, bugs).
 Fixing nitrogen: clovers, vetches, Austrian winter peas,
cowpeas, soybeans, lentils, sunn-hemp.
 Scavenging leftover nutrients : small grains, brassicas, annual
ryegrass (we don’t use annual ryegrass either – danger of it
becoming a weed)
 Improving soil drainage: sorghum-sudangrass, sunflower,
daikon, sweetclover, alfalfa, brassicas, sugar-beet or forage-
beet (never tried that.)
 Grazing: brassicas, clovers, small grains, annual ryegrass.
 Bio-fumigation: brassicas, sorghum-sudan, sunn-hemp,
sesame.
 Killing nematodes: Pacific Gold mustard, white lupins, Iron
and Clay cowpeas, OP French marigolds, sesame.

47. Incorporating Cover Crops into the Soil
• If possible, grow to early bloom for max biomass, and with legumes,
max nitrogen
• Incorporate before plants set seed
• Mow with a rotary mower (eg bush hog) which chops the plants into
small pieces. (Sickle-bar mowers and scythes leave long strawy
plants)
• Till shallowly, put cover crop where soil life is most active, not deeper.
• If direct-sowing the next crop, incorporate cover crop 3-4 weeks
before sowing date, especially winter rye.
A cover crop of rye, hairy vetch and crimson clover. Photo Kathryn Simmons

48. Step 2 revisited.
Put the Crops on the Map
On a blank map of the plots we write in which
major crops will go in which patch, using the
Rotation Pinwheel.
We block in the area needed for each major crop
and calculate the remaining space in each plot.
Our ten plots are not exactly the same size and
our main crops don’t all need equal space either,
so some plots will have spaces of various shapes
and sizes and others no gaps at all.

49. Tractor Work
and the Map:
West Garden and
Central Garden
West Garden
180’-65’ x 243’
Central Garden
200’ x 50’, plus
25’ x 60’ “dogleg”
Maps show plots of
9,000-10,000 ft2

50. Planning the tractor work
In the margins of our maps, we write when
that patch will need disking or other tractor
work. Usually we have five spring diskings:
1. As soon as possible in February, for the
spring broccoli, cabbage and potatoes;
2. In mid-March, for the 2 early corn
sowings;
3. In mid-April, for watermelon, peppers,
winter squash and sweet potatoes;
4. In mid-May, for summer potatoes and
middle three corn sowings;
5. In mid-June, for the late corn.
Spring broccoli transplant,
Photo Kathryn Simmons

51. Fitting in succession crops
Next we look for any extra
space in the plots, to fit in
the minor crops:
succession plantings of
beans, summer squash and
zucchini, cucumbers,
edamame, cantaloupes
and anything we didn’t
manage to find room for in
the permanent raised
beds.
Green beans, Photo Kathryn Simmons

52. Succession Crops
Planning Chart
• We list the spare spaces in
the plots (in order of
availability)
• and the crops we hope to
plant (in date order).
• At the beginning and end
of the season, and in mid-
season when space in the
main plots is tight, we also
look for spaces in our
raised beds.
• Then we pencil in arrows,
fitting the succession crops
into the spaces available.

53. Step 7. Look to Improve
Probably the biggest snag for us in using this rotation is:
 it doesn’t take into account that parts of the gardens
with poor drainage are less suitable for some crops.
One year tomatoes were going in one of our potentially
wetter areas. El Nino - wet spring! So the previous fall,
before sowing our cover crop, we made raised beds. We
mowed the no-till cover crop, crossed our fingers and
planted. As it happened, no wet spring!
 For us, making temporary beds or planting on ridges in
the wetter areas is easier than changing the crop
rotation.

54. Why we like planned crop rotations
This tight crop planning might sound mind-boggling, but for us
it’s very worthwhile.
 The division of the gardens into 10 plots gives us mental and
psychological advantages - we don’t have to think about the
whole of the area all of the time.
 In spring we “open up the rooms” one or two at a time to
plant. By the beginning of July everywhere is in use.
 In August we start to put the plots “to bed” with their winter
cover crops.
 Annual expansion and contraction of the space needing our
attention helps us to stay sane and focused and keep
perspective.
 This system helps us get high productivity from our land,
while taking good care of it.

55. Perhaps you have lots of land?
• At Twin Oaks the land available for
vegetables is finite.
• Years ago, researching plant spacing for
watermelons, (trying to plant closely while
keeping the melon size and yield up) I
spoke with a farmer in the Midwest.
• He said if farmers there wanted more
watermelons, they would plow up more
land, not try to plant them closer.
• On the East Coast, land for farming is less
available and more expensive.
• If you have lots of land, you might prefer
bio-extensive planting
Crimson Sweet watermelon,
Photo Kathryn Simmons

56. Resources - General
 ATTRA attra.ncat.org
 SARE sare.org -A searchable database of research findings
 SARE Crop Rotations on Organic Farms, A Planning Manual, Charles
Mohler and Sue Ellen Johnson, editors.
 extension.org/organic_production The organic agriculture community
with eXtension. Publications, webinars, videos, trainings and support.
An expanding, accessible source of reliable information.
 Growing Small Farms: growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu click Farmer
Resources. Debbie Roos keeps this site up to the minute.
 Jean-Paul Courtens , Roxbury Farm www.roxburyfarm.com. Under
the Information for Farmers tab you’ll find great stuff.

57. Resources - slideshows
 Mark Cain Planning for Your CSA: www.Slideshare.net (search for Crop Planning)
 Planning the Planting of Cover Crops and Cash Crops, Daniel Parson SSAWG 2012
www.slideshare.net/parsonproduce/southern-sawg
 Cover Crop Innovation by Joel B Gruver www.Slideshare.net
 Cover crops for vegetable cropping systems, Joel Gruver,
www.slideshare.net/jbgruver/cover-crops-for-vegetable-crops
 Tom Peterson Farm Planning for a Full Market Season Appalachian Farmers Market
Association and Appalachian Sustainable Development
http://vabf.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/tom-peterson-farm-planning-for-a-full-market-
season.pdf
 Many of my presentations are available at www.Slideshare.net. Search for Pam Dawling.
 Crop Rotations
 Cold-hardy Winter Vegetables
 Fall Vegetable Production
 Feed the Soil
 Intensive Vegetable Production on a Small Scale
 Succession Planting for Continuous Vegetable Harvests
 Sustainable Farming Practices
 Crop Planning for Sustainable Vegetable Production

58. Resources - books
 The Complete Know and Grow Vegetables, J K A Bleasdale, P J Salter et al.
 Knott’s Handbook for Vegetable Growers, Maynard and Hochmuth
 The New Seed Starter’s Handbook, Nancy Bubel, Rodale Books
 The Organic Farmer’s Business Handbook, Richard Wiswall, Chelsea Green
 Sustainable Vegetable Production from Start-up to Market, Vern Grubinger,
 The New Organic Grower, Eliot Coleman, Chelsea Green
 Extending the Season: Six Strategies for Improving Cash Flow Year-Round on the
Market Farm a free e-book for online subscribers to Growing for Market magazine
 Sharing the Harvest, Elizabeth Henderson and Robyn Van En
 Organic Farmer’s Business Handbook, Richard Wiswall
 Gardening When it Counts, Steve Solomon
 Grow a Sustainable Diet: Planning and Growing to Feed Ourselves and the Earth,
Cindy Conner, New Society Publishers. DVD/CD set Develop a Sustainable
Vegetable Garden Plan
 Crop Planning for Organic Vegetable Growers, Daniel Brisebois and Frédéric
Thériault (Canadian Organic Growers www.cog.ca)

59. Crop Rotations for
Vegetables and Cover
Crops
©Pam Dawling 2014
Twin Oaks Community,
Central Virginia
Author of Sustainable Market Farming
Published by New Society Publishers
SustainableMarketFarming.com
facebook.com/SustainableMarketFarming