Guidelines for Organic Gardening

Garden Organic Guidelines
- for gardening

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Garden Organic Guidelines for gardening
Contents
Introducing the guidelines
Using the guidelines
Organic ratings explained
Organic soil care

Techniques
Crop Rotation
Bulky organic materials
Organic fertilisers

Plant raising and growing in containers

Seeds and other planting material
Growing media
Plant raising and container growing
Liquid feeds

Garden and plant health

Keeping the garden healthy
Cleaning green houses, pots, etc.
Managing pests and diseases

Weeds in the organic garden

Techniques
Mulches for weed clearance and control

Water use in the garden
Wood and timber in the garden
Energy use in the organic garden

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Organic Guidelines for all
Whatever the style, size or location of your garden or growing space, the Garden
Organic Guidelines will help you look after it organically.
You may have a small back garden, an allotment, a community growing space, a
conservatory or greenhouse, several acres or just a few containers – our methods are
designed for every situation. Whether you are converting an established garden to
organic, creating a new garden, or running an existing garden organically, there is
advice here for all.
Garden Organic’s Guidelines are for use across the whole garden – fruit and
vegetables, flowers and grass, wildlife areas, shrub borders, hanging baskets,
containers and more. They will help you to harness the natural cycles and processes
that promote plant growth. You will create a sustainable garden or growing area
using methods that minimize ecological damage and environmental pollution.
Recycling and reusing resources cuts costs, greens your lifestyle and reduces your
ecological footprint. These guidelines are not static, and may be ammended as
cirucmstances change and knowledge develops.
These guidelines are for beginner gardeners and for those new to organics, as well
as experienced organic gardeners who want to keep up-to-date on any changes to
organic methods. They aim to guide you through a journey towards ‘best practice’
organic.
The Garden Organic Guidelines are a voluntary code of practice, conforming to
the principles and practices as defined by International Federation of Organic
Agriculture Movements and the national organic agriculture standards, but
interpreted in a garden context. Signing up to them does not permit the sale of
produce labelled as organic.
Basic good gardening techniques are the mainstay of organic gardening. The Garden
Organic Guidelines are designed to be used in conjunction with a good gardening
book such as the Garden Organic Encyclopaedia of Organic Gardening. You can
find a reading list at the back of this booklet.
Note: when a guideline mentions ‘from the garden or allotment’ this is intended to
mean ‘from within your immediate growing area (which might be neither garden,
nor allotment), rather than brought in from outside.

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Using the Garden Organic Guidelines
The Garden Organic Guidelines are divided into different aspects of garden care.
Each section starts with an introduction to the general principles involved. It is
worth making yourself familiar with these principles before moving on.
The gardening practices, and the materials and products you may use in your
organic garden have been categorised into four different ‘ratings’ depending on the
level of organic ‘acceptability’ of the practice or product.
Organic ratings - from ‘Best Practice’ to ‘Never Acceptable’
Each organic rating has a different ‘smiley face’, easy to interpret at a glance.

Best organic practice - the first choice

Acceptable organic practice

Acceptable, but not for regular use

Never acceptable in an organic garden

Garden Organic factsheets

It would be ideal if all gardeners used only ‘Best organic practice’, but this is a little
unrealistic at present. The level of organic gardening you undertake is a personal
choice, and will be governed, to some extent, by garden size and location, and
personal circumstances. The two ‘Acceptable’ categories recognise this fact.
As you gain experience, and your garden develops organically, your garden should
become increasingly self sufficient. You will be able to move more towards
and away from
. If items in the
category are used, a garden would not be
considered organic under these Guidelines.
This is not a comprehensive list of all unacceptable products and practices.

Organic ratings explained
The issues that we have considered when making our decisions are listed on the
following page. Organic gardening doesn’t stop at the garden gate and to create a
sustainable future we must also look to the wider environment.
In some cases you will have to make your own value judgments. Do you, for
example, consider an imported product with an organic symbol more acceptable
than a local product, not organically produced?
The ‘Never acceptable in an organic garden’ rating includes products and practices
that may have previously been seen as acceptable, or are often mistakenly thought
to be acceptable in organic gardening.
Taking all these issues into account, we have aimed to ensure that the Garden
Organic Guidelines describe a practical, manageable, system of gardening.

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Best organic
practice - the
first choice

Acceptable
organic practice

Acceptable, but
not for regular
use

Never acceptable
in an organic
garden

Organic
credentials

Organically
grown or from
recognised
organic sources,
preferably with
a recognised
organic symbol

From low input
and low impact
systems

From non
organic sources,
but within
certain limits

Not organic
and outside any
limits set

Ecological
impact in use

Enhancing and
harnessing
natural
processes

No particular
environmental
benefit

Possible negative Ecologically
impact
harmful

Low

May kill
organisms
other than those
targeted

Unacceptably
toxic, and/or
persistent in the
environment

Sustainable

May not be
sustainable in
the longer term

Unsustainable

Toxicity

None

Sustainability Sustainable
Sources

Garden/
allotment

Local/ regional

National/
imported

Imported

Materials

Reused

Recycled waste
product

New materials

Highly
processed

Energy use

Little or no fossil
fuel energy
required in use
or manufacture

Fossil fuel
energy required
in use or
manufacture

Fossil fuel
energy required
in use or
manufacture

Unacceptable
fossil fuel energy
required in use
or manufacture

Packaging

Loose / no
packaging

Environmentally
sound/ minimal
packaging

Non recyclable
packaging

Excessive
non-recyclable
packaging

None required

Disposal causes
little or no
environmental
hazard

Disposal may be
hazardous to the
environment

Disposal
hazardous to
the environment
and/or human
health

Disposal

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Organic soil care
A healthy soil is the basis for growing healthy plants and healthy food. The soil is
full of life - worms, fungi, bacteria and other microscopic creatures – which create
its structure and fertility. When looking after your soil organically you will be
improving the diversity, and supporting the activity, of these vital creatures. You
will be avoiding activities and inputs that disrupt and harm the soil ecosystem.

Techniques
Activities and practices for organic soil care

Get to know the soil you are working with.
Grow plants that suit the existing soil conditions. Where necessary, use
organic methods to improve the soil, but don’t try to change soil conditions too
drastically.
Keep the soil covered with growing plants, green manure cover crops, or an
organic mulch. This protects and improves the soil structure.
Grow green manures to improve soil structure and to recycle, and add, plant
foods. This includes clover in lawns.
Maintain humus levels, biological activity and soil fertility by applications of
bulky organic materials in appropriate quantities and at the appropriate season.
Recycle organic kitchen and garden waste within the garden. Where appropriate,
process it through a compost or leafmould heap before use.
Use a crop rotation (see page 8)
No dig techniques

NONE

Rotavating, to clear ground or turn in green manures
Digging between November and February, other than on clay soils to leave ground
exposed to frost

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Using excessive quantities of nutrient rich manures and fertilisers
Unnecessary digging, rotavating and other soil cultivations
Growing food on potentially contaminated soils, such as brownfield sites, unless
analysis shows that the levels of contamination are acceptable (see Garden
Organic factsheet ‘Soil contamination’).

Crop rotation
Crop rotation is an essential technique for managing soil fertility, and for
pest and disease control.
Briefly, crop rotation means not replanting the same type of plant, or
another of the same family, in the same site for a period of years. It is most
often used with annual vegetables, but the same principles can be applied to
perennial fruit crops and other plants.
4 An interval of at least 3 years, or more between plants of the same
family, or longer if necessary where a specific problem is identified
4 Include a nitrogen fixing green manure in a vegetable crop rotation
4 In a greenhouse, where a 4 year rotation may not be possible, pay
particular attention to building and maintaining soil health.
4 Alternate fertility building crops with those which take a lot from the
soil
4 Alternate weed suppressing plants with those that compete poorly with
weeds

Composts and manures in the organic garden
Crop rotation
Know your soil
Mulches: weed prevention and control
Potential toxic contaminants in soils, manures and plant wastes
What can I do with woody garden waste?

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Bulky organic soil improvers
Bulky organic soil improvers are materials such as garden compost and strawy
manure; they are bulky, as compared with a bag of fertiliser, and their ingredients
are ‘organic’ in that they are of living origin. In an ideal world they would all
contain only organically grown ingredients.
Bulky organic soil improvers are generally ‘waste’ materials. Recycling plant and
animal wastes in the soil imitates the recycling of nutrients carried out in nature,
and is the mainstay of organic soil fertility.
Bulky organic materials are high in plant fibre, which is a vital food for the soil life
that builds and maintains the soil structure. They also contain plant foods, in levels
that will vary between different types of material, and how those materials have
been stored.
Waste materials from your kitchen and your growing plot should be your first
choice. Then try and source further materials as locally as possible. Manures, straw
or hay should be obtained only from organic, or low input systems.
When buying ‘commercial’ products, choose those with an organic symbol, or
wording, from an approved organic certification organisation, where possible.

Storing and processing plant and animal wastes
Bulky plant materials and animal manures should be composted or left
to rot down before use. The composting process stabilises the material,
reduces or destroys pathogens and weed seeds, and makes the materials
easier to handle and apply. Keep the heap covered to reduce loss of plant
foods (which can be washed out by rain) and prevent weed seeds being
blown onto the heap.
Materials from non-organic sources should be left for at least 6 months
before use.

Rates of use
It is important not to ‘overdose’ the soil with nutrient rich manures and composts.
This is wasteful of resources, can cause pollution, and can encourage excessive
growth that is more vulnerable to pest and disease attack.
For reccomended rates of use see page 11.

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Bulky organic soil improvers - Plant wastes
Home made compost, and worm compost, made from weeds and plant residues;
kitchen waste; low grade paper and card; other compostable household ‘waste’.
Autumn leaves and leafmould
Shredded woody prunings
Lawn mowings, comfrey leaves and other fresh green materials. These make
ideal compost activators.
All the above should come from within the individual garden (or allotment , field,
growing plot).
Grow green manure cover crops

Autumn leaves from local parks, cemeteries and other traffic-free areas
Bought in composts made from green waste and other materials approved in
these guidelines. Ideally with a recognised organic symbol or conforming to PAS
100 standard.
Straw and hay, from organic sources
Shredded prunings from local sources
Chipped or shredded wood - from wood not treated with preservatives
Composted bark, from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) forests, preferably
organically approved.
Sawdust and wood shavings, preferably from local sources, from wood not
treated with preservatives
Other local waste plant materials, such as bracken and spent hops, composted
before use if not from a certified organic source
Mushroom compost from certified organic sources

Straw and hay from non-organic, non-intensive systems. Check with supplier as
to what herbicides have been used; some may harm plants.
Mushroom compost from non-organic mushroom producers, stored under cover,
or composted, for six months before use

Page 10

Peat or coir as a soil conditioner
Leaves from busy roadsides and other polluted locations
Leaves and leafmould collected from woodlands
Any materials contaminated with excessive levels of potentially toxic elements.
See www.gardenorganic.org.uk/guidelines or Garden Organic fact sheet Potential
toxic contaminants in soils, manures and plant wastes

Bulky organic soil improvers - rates of use
Material

Maximum rate of use

Garden compost, home made Up to 1 wheelbarrowful per 5m2 per year
Green waste compost

Up to 1 wheelbarrowful per 3m2 per year

Worm compost

Up to 1 wheelbarrowful per 10m2 per year

Poultry manure with
bedding

Up to one wheelbarrowful per 20m2 per year

Strawy animal manures
(excluding poultry)

Up to one wheelbarrowful per 10m2 per year

Leafmould

Apply layer up to 2-3cm

Horse manure on wood
shavings

Must be well rotted before use; use only as a
mulch on established perennials.

Horse manure on paper
bedding

Add to a good mixed compost heap to
decompose

Topsoil
Where the layer of topsoil is inadequate thin, or nonexistant, bought in topsoil,
conforming to BSI standards can be used, along with the materials listed in this
bulky organic soil improvers section.

Page 11

Bulky organic soil improvers - Animal wastes
Organic farms, apart from some poultry farms, must recycle all their manure on
the farm, so you are unlikely to be able to obtain certified organic manures. Try to
source manures from ‘free range’ or low input farms/smallholdings. It is important
not to use manures from factory farming systems or where animals have been fed
genetically modified (GM) crops.
The way in which these materials are stored, or processed before use, and the rates
at which they are used is vital to their acceptability in organic growing (see page 9
and 11).

Well rotted manures and bedding from herbivorous pets, and any livestock kept
in the individual garden (or allotment , field, growing plot).

Straw-based horse, cattle, pig and goat manures, from organic systems. It should
be well rotted before use

Straw-based horse, cattle, pig and goat manures, from non intensive systems. It
must be well rotted before use
Wood shavings based horse manure. This must be very well rotted before use.
Poultry manures from non intensive egg and meat-producing systems.
Commercially available, composted, straw-based animal manures, preferably
with an organic symbol.
Chicken manure pellets – see Animal based fertilisers pxx

Manures, and processed animal by-products, from intensive farming
Materials polluted with heavy metals and other pollutants that exceed the
permitted levels.
You will find details on our website www.gardenorganic.org.uk or factsheet.
Products containing sewage
Compost activators containing artificial fertilisers
Manures from livestock fed on Genetically Modified crops

Page 12

Organic fertilisers
Composted plant wastes and manures, and green manures, are the main ways of
adding plant foods to the soil. Organic fertilizers are only used where a soil or plant
deficiency occurs which cannot be remedied otherwise, or where you cannot make,
or bring in, enough compost or other bulky organic materials.
Fertilisers suitable for use in an organic garden are of plant, animal or mineral
origin. Most of them are waste products. The action of soil living creatures, or the
weather, makes the nutrients they contain available to plants, in a ‘slow release’
way. The mining and/or shipping of some of these products can have an adverse
environmental impact, so think carefully before use.
Choose a product with a recognised organic symbol as first choice.

Liquid feeds see page 18
Plant based fertilisers
Home grown nettle, comfrey and other leaves used in a planting trench or as a
mulch

Wood ash, from wood not chemically treated after felling, recycled through a
compost heap.

Dried seaweed meal – from sustainable sources
Fertilisers based on plant waste products and extracts, such as kali vinasse,
lucerne, comfrey, cocoa shells

Animal based fertilisers
None

None

Page 13

Meat, blood,bone, hoof and horn meals, on areas where no livestock have access,
and in growing media
Chicken manure pellets, from organic sources only, with a recognised organic
symbol.
Wool based products, not containing pesticide residues.

Mineral based fertilizers, and materials for raising pH (liming)
Ground rock phosphate
Aluminium calcium phosphate rock, where soil pH is 7.5. Note : The cadmium
content must be less than 90 mg/kg of phosphate.
Calcium sulphate (Gypsum)
Chalk, marl and ground limestone (natural forms of calcium carbonate).
Magnesian chalk and ground magnesium limestone (dolomitic limestone)
(Natural forms of magnesium/ calcium carbonate). These can also be used to
raise the pH of a soil that is known to be too acid.
Rock dust (stone meal), if a by-product of the quarry industry.

Calcified seaweed
Slaked lime
Quicklime

Soluble chemical fertilisers
Guano, urea, Chilean nitrate

Materials to supply trace elements
Rock dust and stone meals if by-products of the quarry industry
Seaweed meal and liquid seaweed extracts
Sulphur dust or chips
Calcium chloride solution, for treatment of bitter pit in apples
Manganese sulphate
Borax (for boron deficiency)
Epsom salts, for acute magnesium deficiency
Fertilisers and liquid feeds containing boron, copper, iron, molybdenum, cobalt,
selenium, zinc, sodium

Page 14

Seeds and other planting material
Start with good quality sowing and planting material to help ensure healthy plants.
Organic seeds, plants, tubers and other planting material are available, but growing
your own is ideal where possible.

Home saved seed, from disease-free parent plants
Home-grown transplants, preferably bare root
Seeds, tubers, sets, bulbs, plants and transplants with an organic symbol from an
approved organic certification body

Seeds, tubers, sets and bulbs from non-organic sources, where not available as
organic. They must not have been treated with fungicides after harvest.
Container grown plants and transplants in peat-free growing media, but without
an accredited organic symbol.
Natural hormone products, such as seaweed extract, to promote rooting of
cuttings.

Container grown plants and transplants in peat-based growing media, but
without an accredited organic symbol.

Plants taken from the wild
Genetically modified seeds and planting material, should they become available
Seeds, bulbs, sets and tubers treated with fungicides after harvest
Synthetic hormone rooting powders

Cleaning structures and containers see page 20

Page 15

Growing media
An organic growing medium – seed, potting, or multipurpose compost – has, as
its main ingredient, biologically active material, such as composted plant wastes.
Seed compost should be low in nutrients. Other mixes should provide plants with
nutrients for as long as possible, to limit the need for liquid feeding.

Make your own growing media using bulky organic ingredients from those
listed in the Soil Care section.
Loan from the garden, pasturised (not above 80°C) before use, if necessary.

Organic fertilisers, including animal by-products, as ingredients of growing
media
Commercially available growing media, with an organic symbol, or wording,
from an approved organic certification organisation
Commercially available growing media containing materials listed in the Soil
Care section of these guidelines.

Coarse grade seaweed meal for moisture retention
Sulphur chips to lower pH (increase acidity)
Horticultural sand and grit
Vermiculite and perlite
Coir
Bought in loam (topsoil)

Growing media containing materials not approved in these guidelines, including
non -organic fertilisers and peat
Peat, other than recycled/ reclaimed peat
Soil sterilisation (temperatures above 80°C).
Make your own potting compost
Make your own potting compost

Page 16

Hanging basket line

Growing in containers and raising transplants
The basis of organic growing is a healthy, biologically active, soil, which supplies
plants with all their needs. Plants growing in the restricted environment of a pot will
always be more reliant on additional feeding and watering, and be more prone to
pest and disease. Growing directly in the ground is recommended where possible.

Use an organic growing medium (see page 16)
Use the largest appropriate container size to reduce the need for additional
feeding, and the risk of drying out
Home made paper pots, wooden trays, foodstuff and other reused and recycled
containers
Hanging basket liners made from recycled, biodegradable materials such as moss
from your lawn, hay or a pure wool jumper.
Cleaning containers with steam, hot water, scrubbing and high pressure hose

Reused plastic pots and trays; clay pots
Biodegradable hanging basket liners
Commercially available pots made from paper, plant wastes and other
biodegradable materials, excluding peat
Plant tonics and biostimulants as on page 20 of these guidelines
Composted organic materials and organic fertilisers for additional feeding
Organic liquid feeds (see p 18)

Strong plastic pots and trays, preferably made from recycled plastic, th at can be
reused many times.

Tyres as a container for growing food crops, unless lined first
Moss gathered from the wild for hanging basket liners
Hydroponic systems
Peat pots

Page 17

Liquid feeds
Organic liquid feeds provide nutrients in a more readily available form than
composts and fertilisers, but do little to encourage soil flora and fauna. For this
reason, in organic gardening they are only used on plants growing in a restricted
environment such as a container - seed tray, pot, growing bag, hanging basket etc
- or in a greenhouse or polytunnel soil border. The major supply of nutrients should
always come from the compost or soil in which the plants are growing.
See also : Plant tonics, stimulants and microbial products p 20

Home made liquid feeds made from comfrey leaves, nettles and other plant
wastes
Liquid from worm composting systems
Liquid feeds made from manures from livestock kept in the garden or allotment
Liquid feeds based on plant products approved in these guidelines, preferably
with an organic symbol, or wording, from an approved organic certification
organisation

Liquid feeds made from brought in animal manures that are acceptable under
these Guidelines See page 12
Commercially available liquid feeds based on animal by-products approved
in these Guidelines, preferably with an organic symbol , or wording, from an
approved organic certification organisation
Products containing trace elements to correct deficiencies that cannot be
corrected in any other way - see page 14

Fish emulsion, unless based on waste products of organic fishing industry
Products containing artificially produced nutrients.

Page 18

Garden and plant health
The idea of a healthy garden, rather than simply pest and disease free plants, is
at the heart of organic growing. The first part of this section , Keeping the garden
healthy, looks at ways of maintaining a garden with a diverse, vigorous, ecosystem
that can, to a great extent, look after its own well-being.
More specific action is only taken as necessary against particular pests, diseases or
adverse environmental factors. This is covered in the section Managing pests and
diseases, on pages 21-22

Keeping the garden healthy
Use the information in all sections of these organic guidelines, combined with good
horticultural practice, to help you create and maintain a diverse, active ecosystem in
your garden, both below and above ground.

General gardening
Create a fertile, biologically active soil. Composted organic materials can help
reduce soil pests and diseases, and increase plant resistance.
Use a crop rotation, minimum four year, for annual vegetables (see page XX)
Grow plants that suit the location and soil type
Start with healthy seeds, tubers, plants, fruit bushes, shrubs and other planting
material, certified disease free where possible
Grow varieties with some resistance to pest and disease
Choose sowing and planting dates to avoid specific pests and diseases
To reduce risk of diseases developing, prune trees and bushes, design plantings,
and keep greenhouses and other protective structures well ventilated, to allow a
good airflow
When watering, apply water to the soil rather than the plant foliage
Ensure plants have an appropriate supply of water

Biodiversity
Provide a diversity of food, shelter and habitats for predators, parasites, and
other wildlife

Page 19

Leave some ‘relaxed’ areas, such as leaves under a hedge, weeds, or an area of
longer grass and for example, to feed and shelter wildlife.
There will always be ‘pests’ present, but they do not always create a problem.
They are also a necessary source of food for valuable predators and parasites.
Learn to recognise the many creatures, from hedgehogs to hoverflies, which
consume pests, and disease-causing organisms, as part of their diet
Where practical, grow a mix of types and varieties of plant to reduce risk of pest
and disease infestation and spread. This includes companion planting

Plant tonics, stimulants and microbial products
Plant tonics and biostimulants may help to promote plant growth and boost a
plant’s natural defences against pests and diseases.
Home made compost ‘teas’
Liquid seaweed extract
Microbial products, including mycorhizzae

Cleaning greenhouses and other structures, and
pots, tubs and other containers
Pressure-washing
Hot water/steam and scrubbing

Natural plant essences including citrus juices
Natural cleaning products such as vinegar, bicarbonate of soda

Crop rotation
Water use in the garden
Companion and mixed planting
Various wildlife gardening factsheets
See also : Guidelines on Soil care pp 7-14

Page 20

Managing pests, diseases and other causes of plant
ill health
Prevention is the key to success when dealing with plant problems. The section
‘Keeping the garden healthy’, pages 19 and 20 covers ways in which this can be
done.
When a specific problem arises, it is important to identify the cause, so you can
decide if any action is needed (many plants can live quite happily with some pest
or disease infestation) and, if so, to plan an appropriate strategy for dealing with
it. Note that environmental factors such as waterlogging, frost, cold winds and
‘human’ factors such as strimmer damage or over-feeding, can also cause plant
symptoms.
Where problems are known to occur regularly, there are a range of ‘plant protection’
barriers and traps that can be used.
There are a few pesticide sprays that can be used in organic growing, but they are
not harmless, and you should keep their use to a minimum. If you find yourself
having to use pesticides regularly, despite using the other strategies suggested, then
perhaps you might consider growing something different.

Biological and physical methods
Encourage biodiversity
Learn to tell the difference between creatures that can harm plants and those
that will not
Check plants regularly, squashing or picking off pests and infected foliage as
they occur
Use other physical methods, such as shaking the plant or dislodging pests with a
sharp jet of water
Learn about the life cycle of pests and diseases to help develop strategies to
combat them
Use comfrey and other leaves as slug baits and barriers

None

Page 21

Biological control agents. These are natural predators and pathogens that can be
purchased for controlling specific pests.
Plastic bottle cloches, home-made from used bottles
Crop covers including horticultural fleece and fine mesh materials
Netting, plastic and wire; gauge appropriate to size of pest
Electric fencing
Fruit tree grease and grease bands
Yellow sticky traps, without added pesticides. For use in greenhouse or
conservatory only, unless for monitoring pest presence
Cabbage root fly mats, preferably home made
Copper tape
Granules, and other similar commercially available physical barriers, against
slugs
Pheromone baited sticky traps, not containing pesticides – for monitoring pest
presence only
Slug traps baited with beer or other attractants, not containing pesticides
Barriers and crop covers can be very effective, and harmless to wildlife. The
reason they are in this category is because of concerns over the energy used
to make them, their lifespan, and how they are disposed of. Try to recycle
waste materials, and avoid single use of new materials.

Detailed factsheets on a whole range of pests and diseases are available. They can
be found on www.gardenorganic.org.uk., or contact Garden Organic for a full list.

Suppliers
A full range of pest control traps and barriers is available from The Organic
Gardening Catalogue.

Page 22

Pest and disease control sprays
Although less harmful than many pesticides, the products listed here can still
disrupt the natural ecosystem, and may harm other creatures. Avoid their use where
possible, and concentrate on using all the other available organic methods.
Use only those products containing the ‘active ingredients’ listed below. Always
follow the instructions for use on the product label.

For pest control
Plant oils and other plant based products with a physical mode of action
Starch based products with a physical mode of action
Natural pyrethrum products (pyrethrins extracted from Chrysanthemum
cinerariaefolium)
Fatty acid potassium salt soaps
Iron phosphate (Iron (III) orthophosphate) slug pellets
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) - note that products containing Bt are only available
to professional growers

For disease control
Potassium bicarbonate (99.0% w/w Potassium Hydrogen Carbonate (Bicarbonate))
Sulphur

For rodent control
Mouse traps
Rodenticides, approved by the Pesticide Safety Directorate, used in tamper-proof
bait stations

Copper based fungicides. These guidelines recognise the environmental hazards
of these products, and no longer recommend their use in organic growing.
Any active ingredient/product not registered as a pesticide with the Pesticide
Safety Directorate; this includes homemade pesticide sprays, washing up liquid,
or any other household products
Any other pesticide not included in the Garden Organic Guidelines

Page 23

Weeds
– ground clearance, management and control
A weed is an opportunist plant that will rapidly appear in bare soil and can become
a nuisance to gardeners, completing for light, water, nutrients and space with
‘desired’ plants.
They may be wild plants, or cultivated plants that have spread too far. Weeds also
bring biodiversity to a garden and some can be vital in to the survival of butterflies
and other wildife.
Where necessary, weeds can be managed using the range of methods outlined
below. Prevention is the key and cuts down on the work in the long run.
There are no organic herbicides for clearing weedy ground of perennial weeds, but
there are other methods that can be used. It is worth allowing sufficient time (which
could be months or even a year or more) to clear perennial weeds completely,
before planting up with perennial plants such as fruit bushes, shrubs or herbaceous
flowers.

Clearing weedy ground
Cover the ground with a mulch (Guidelines ‘rating’ will depend on material
used)
Cultivate by hand (digging etc)
Use livestock, such as pigs, chickens, geese
Mow/ cut to clear certain weeds
Cultivate with a rotavator or other mechanical cultivator

Maintenance
Grow ground cover plants, including green manures
Use close spacing (where appropriate), vigorous varieties, intercropping and
undersowing to inhibit weed germination and growth
Clear perennial weeds thoroughly before planting perennial plants
Hand weeding, hoe, dig out.
Cover the ground with a mulch (Guidelines ‘rating’ will depend on material
used)
Cut problem weeds, such as docks and thistles, to prevent them seeding
Design the garden to limit areas where weeds can become a problem
Keep soil disturbance to a minimum to avoid bringing dormant weeds to the
surface

Page 24

Crop rotation (see page 8)
Stale seedbed before sowing

Stale seedbed technique
Use to reduce seedling weeds, where you are going to sow grass seed for
a lawn, for example or clover as a green manure, or sow slow to germinate
vegetable crops.
You will need to prepare the seedbed at least 4 weeks before you want to
sow the seeds. Prepare the ground, and rake it level. Water well, if dry, to
encourage weed seeds to germinate.
Alternatively cover the prepared ground with black plastic sheeting,
avoiding the need for hoeing.
After four weeks or so, very gently hoe off the weed seedlings that have
appeared. It is important only to disturb the top 1-2cm of soil; anything
deeper and you will encourage more weeds to germinate.

Paths, drives and other hard surfaces
Reduce shade from plants to discourage algae and moss
Pressure wash, or clean with a stiff brush
Construct paths, driveways and other hard surfaces well, to prevent weeds
growing through from below, or taking hold on the surface
Use regularly – surfaces not used regularly are more likely to grow weeds
Hoe gravel
Use a thermal/ flame weeder
Weed killing sprays containing fatty acids, such as pelargonic acid, as the active
ingredient ; for hard landscaping only

Biodiversity
Recognise that weeds can bring something positive to your garden
Allow some weeds to flourish where they are not going to compete with your
chosen plants

Lawns

Accept a certain level of ‘weeds’ in a lawn, and recognise their benefits
Amend soil pH, drainage and fertility as appropriate to encourage vigorous growth
Choose appropriate varieties of grass seeds for location and use
Don’t cut grass too short, particularly in dry weather

Page 25

Mulches for weed clearance and control
See also: Bulky organic materials - plant wastes page 10

Recycled plant materials from garden or allotment.
Cardboard and newspaper
Loose mulches, commercially available, with an organic symbol, or wording,
from an approved organic certification organisation.
Loose mulches, commercially available, made from recycled plant materials.
Products from local sources, and those not packaged are preferable.

Biodegradable mulch fabrics made from wool, hemp, paper and other natural
materials; also biodegradable, non-GM, starch based materials.
Bagged biodegradable mulches from non organic sources
Inert materials such as gravel, slate waste, recycled glass – preferably from
recycled and/or local sources. Consider environmental impact.
Permeable synthetic materials - [polypropylene, polyethylene or other
polycarbonates only] for ground clearance, long-term plantings and under paths,
driveways etc.
Impermeable synthetic materials, such as black polythene - for ground clearance only

Any materials from unsustainable sources
Carpet as a mulch

Chemical-free plot clearance
Mulches for weed control

Organic Weed Management website
For more detailed information on organic weed control, particularly for farmers and
growers, but also of interest to gardeners, go to www.organicweeds.org.uk

Page 26

Water Use
The aim in an organic garden is to minimise the need for watering, and to collect
rainwater as possible for use in the garden. Where watering is necessary, water
should be applied in ways that make best use of it.
Gardens act as valuable ‘soakaways’ for rainwater – an increasingly important
function with the increase in heavy downpours. Do not pave or tarmac a whole
garden. Even areas used for parking can incorporate some soakaway areas.

Where soil is light and free draining, grow drought tolerant plants
Maximise water holding capacity of soil by adding organic matter (see page xx)
Mulch the soil to reduce water loss see p xx
Keep soil cultivations to a minimum
Don’t cut lawn grass shorter than 2.5cm; leave it slightly longer in drought
conditions
Allow weeds such as clover and yarrow to grow in a lawn; they will help to keep
it green in dry weather
Ensure pond liners don’t leak, reducing the need for topping up
Try to sow or transplant just before rain is forecast, rather than just before a spell
of dry weather
Protect young plants from sun and drying winds
Collect as much rain water as you can
Think before you water; water mainly to establish plants; many, particularly
shrubs, trees and perennials rarely need watering

Make effective use of water by only watering at key points in a plant’s lifecycle,
and then only if necessary
Give the ground around plants a good soaking so that the water penetrates the
soil, rather than just moistening the surface
Apply water to the soil rather than foliage. A hand held hose or watering can
will direct the water where it is needed
If using an irrigation system, chose a drip system rather than sprinklers
To minimise losses through evaporation, water in the evening, or at night, rather
than in the heat of the day

Page 27

Use ‘grey’ water, from baths, sinks and showers, to water non-food plants

Ineffective and wasteful use of water

Water in the organic garden factsheet

Page 28

Wood (timber) in the garden
Wood has many uses in the garden, including fencing, compost bins, support
structures, bed edging and garden furniture. In an organic garden it is important to
consider the source of the wood, to minimise the need for wood preservatives, and
to use the least damaging preservative treatments if essential.
The degree of protection that wood requires differs with the type of wood, and the
situation it is being used in. Rotting is most likely in situations where the wood is in
contact with both moisture and air, such as at the base of fence posts. Where timber
is being used for structural purposes, such as decking, then safety takes precedence
and it would be wise to use pre-treated wood. If wood is used for bed edging, or a
compost box, it can be left untreated; it can last for years without any preservatives.

Coppice products, from your own garden or allotment – for plant support
structures, bed edging, furniture and other appropriate uses
Choose species of wood more resistant to rotting. Species vary considerably in
durability.
Accept that the wood will rot eventually, and replace it as necessary

Coppice products bought in from sustainable sources, preferably local – for plant
support structures, bed edging, furniture and other appropriate uses
New timber from sustainable sources, with an accredited mark to prove it. Look
for accreditation, such as the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), Programme
for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) or the Soil Association (SA)
woodmark. UK or European produced timber is preferable.
Second-hand/reclaimed timber, though it can be difficult to know if it has been
treated with preservatives
Organically grown timber - only used for furniture at present
Railway sleepers, not treated with creosote or other preservative treatment
Builders scaffolding boards. Usually untreated, but always check before
purchase.
Linseed oil wood treatment

Synthetic ‘wood’ alternatives, made from recycled materials such as plastics

Page 29

Wood from unsustainable forests, particularly from tropical regions
Wood treated with creosote, including old railway sleepers
‘Second hand’ wood treated with Copper Chrome Arsenic pressure treatment
There are no approved wood preservative treatments for use in an organic garden,
but for health and safety issues, there may be times when use of preservative
treated wood is essential. For more information see our ‘Using wood in the garden’
factsheet.

Using wood in the garden

Timber sold for outdoor use may already have been treated with preservatives, but
not labelled as such. Always ask before you buy. Timber sold for indoor use is more
likely to be untreated.

Page 30

Energy Use / Carbon footprint
Energy use – in manufacture, processing, packaging, transportation, and final use
– has been taken into account in every sector of these guidelines. The aim is, of
course, to cut it to a minimum. But it makes sense to ‘think energy’ in all gardening
activities including garden design and storage of garden produce. Your garden
might also be used to harvest ‘green’ energy.

Grow nitrogen fixing plants
Buy second hand, or sturdy, long lasting tools
Recycle and repair tools were possible
Use manual, rather than powered, tools e.g. push lawnmower, shears, lawn rake.
Use solar energy for lighting garden paths and sheds, running water pumps, and
greenhouse ventilation.
Use non-electric automatic vents to ventilate a greenhouse.
Use wood from the garden for stakes and supports, or firewood
Use a lean-to green greenhouse where the back wall will store solar heat. Water
filled tanks and bottles also store heat.
Grow seasonally to reduce requirement for heating
Insulate greenhouses
Use manure based hot beds to provide low level heat for raising seedlings
Use cold storage, clamps or other traditional preserving methods

Heated bench for additional greenhouse heating
Use fleece to protect plants in greenhouse or cold frame from frost
When store garden produce in a fridge or freezer, use A++ appliances, set to the
minimum temperature necessary
Where engine or lubricant oils are needed, use plant-based oils (bio-diesel, biolubricant) as they are fully biodegradable
Use the garden to harvest energy, such as ground source heating systems or
solar hot water panels mounted on a pergola or a garden shed

Page 31

Petrol and electricity driven tools until they can be replaced by alternatives
Fossil fuel to heat greenhouses, where essential and with care to minimise losses

Inefficient and wasteful use of fossil fuel derived energy
Fossil fuel fired patio heaters

Page 32

Guidelines for Organic Gardening

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