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BY:MUNEEB UR REHMAN 
1
Introduction 
WHAT IS WATER? 
THE IMPORTANCES OF THE WATER 
WATER ON THE EARTH 
Composition of water 
WHAT IS RIVER 
RIVER PROCESSES 
IMAGES OF RIVERS 
River ’s deposition, erosion, 
transpor tation. 
ALL ABOUT DEPOSITION WITH 
EXAMPLES. 
2
WHAT IS WATER? 
The water is a chemical substance with the formula 
H2O. 
The water is very important for life, because it is vital. 
The animals or humans drink water because the body 
needs 75% water to do exercise for example: walk. 
Water covers 70% of the Earth. Like two thirds parts of 
the earth. 
3
THE IMPORTANCES OF THE 
WATER 
Human uses the water in: 
- Agriculture: The most important for the agriculture is 
for irrigation. 
- For drinking: Because the body need 75% of water to do 
exercise. 
- Washing: Washing is also an important component of 
several aspects of personal body hygiene. 
- Fire extinction: One of the important use of the water 
is the fire extinction. 
- Recreation: For example swimming, waterskiing, boating, 
surfing and diving. 
- Industrial applications: Water is used in power 
generation. 
4
WATER ON THE EARTH 
· Water cycle: Water cycle consist in this three process: 
Evaporation: from oceans and other water bodies into the air and 
transpiration from land plants and animals into air. 
Precipitation: from water vapor condensing from the air and 
falling to earth or ocean. 
Runoff: from the land usually reaching the sea. 
5
This is how the water is distribute on 
Earth. If you could see here that is 
most amount of water in the oceans.
WHAT IS RIVER? 
 River is a natural watercourse, usually freshwater, flowing towards an 
ocean, a lake, a sea, or another river. In some rare cases a river could 
flow into the ground and dry up completely at the end of its course, 
without reaching another body of water. Small rivers may be called by 
several other names, including stream, creek, brook, rivulet, and rill. 
There are no official definitions for generic terms, such as river, as 
applied to geographic features although in some countries or 
communities a stream may be defined by its size. Many names for small 
rivers are specific to geographic location; examples are "run" in some 
parts of the United States, "burn" in Scotland and northeast England, 
and "beck" in northern England. Sometimes a river is defined as being 
larger than a creek but not always: the language is vague. 
 Rivers are part of the hydrological cycle. Water generally collects in a 
river from precipitation through a drainage basin from surface runoff 
and other sources such as groundwater recharge, springs, and the 
release of stored water in natural ice and snowpacks (e.g. from glaciers 
). Potamology is the scientific study of rivers while limnology is the 
study of inland waters in general. 
7
RIVER PROCESSES: 
Three river processes: 
1. Transportation 
2. Deposition 
3. Erosion 
8
IMAGES OF RIVERS 
9
RIVER TRANSPORTATION: 
(i) Saltation: when pebbles, sand and gravel (bedload) are lifted 
up by current and bounced along the bed in a hopping 
motion. 
(ii) Traction: when largest boulders and cobbles (bedload) roll 
or slide along the bed. 
10 
traction saltation
(iii) Suspension: very fine particle such as clay and silt (suspended 
load) are dislodged and carried by turbulence in a fast flowing 
river. 
(iv) Solution: water flowing within a river channel contains acids 
(e.g. carbonic acid from precipitation) dissolve the load such 
as limestone in running water and removed in solution. 
11 
solution suspension
River deposition: 
Deposition: when velocity begins to fall, it has less energy and no 
longer had competence and capacity to carry all its load so largest 
particles, materials begins to be deposited. 
When occur? 
1. Low discharge during period of low precipitation 
2. Less velocity when river enter sea or lake. 
3. Shallow water occurs on inside of a meander. 
4. The load suddenly increase (debris from landslide) 
5. River overflow its bank so velocity outside channel is reduced. 
(resulting in floodplain) 
12
River erosion. 
Erosion: wearing away of river bed and bank. 
There are four main process of erosion: 
(i) Corrasion: occurs when the river picks up materials and rubs it 
along its bed and banks, wearing them away by abrasion, 
effective during flood. Major method by which river erodes both 
vertically and horizontally. 
Landforms: potholes. (turbulent eddies in the current can swirl 
pebbles 
around to form potholes that are hollows in river bed and pebbles are 
likely to become trapped) 
potholes 13
D E P O SI T I O N ( N u ll-poin t 
h ypoth esis) : 
 The null-point hypothesis explains how sediment is deposited throughout a shore profile according to its grain 
size. This is due to the influence of hydraulic energy, resulting in a seaward-fining of sediment particle size, or 
where fluid forcing equals gravity for each grain size.The concept can also be explained as "sediment of a 
particular size may move across the profile to a position where it is in equilibrium with the wave and flows acting 
on that sediment grain. This sorting mechanism combines the influence of the down-slope gravitational force of 
the profile and forces due to flow asymmetry, the position where there is zero net transport is known as the null 
point and was first proposed by Cornelia in 1889.[Figure 1 illustrates this relationship between sediment grain size 
and the depth of the marine environment. 
 the sediment size distribution over a shoreline profile, where finer sediments are transported away from high 
energy environments and settle out of suspension, or deposit in calmer environments. Coarse sediments are 
maintained in the upper shoreline profile and are sorted by the wave-generated hydraulic regime 
 The first principle underlying the null point theory is due to the gravitational force; finer sediments remain in the 
water column for longer durations allowing transportation outside the surf zone to deposit under calmer 
conditions. The gravitational effect, or settling velocity determines the location of deposition for finer sediments, 
whereas a grain's internal angle of friction determines the deposition of larger grains on a shore profile.[3] The 
secondary principle to the creation of seaward sediment fining is known as the hypothesis of asymmetrical 
thresholds under waves; this describes the interaction between the oscillatory flow of waves and tides flowing 
over the wave ripple bedforms in an asymmetric pattern "The relatively strong onshore stroke of the wave forms 
an eddy or vortex on the lee side of the ripple, provided the onshore flow persists, this eddy remains trapped in 
the lee of the ripple. When the flow reverses, the eddy is thrown upwards off the bottom and a small cloud of 
suspended sediment generated by the eddy is ejected into the water column above the ripple, the sediment cloud 
is then moved seaward by the offshore stroke of the wave.] Where there is symmetry in ripple shape the vortex 
is neutralized, the eddy and its associated sediment cloud develops on both sides of the ripple] This creates a 
cloudy water column which travels under tidal influence as the wave orbital motion is in equilibrium. 
 The Null-point hypothesis has been quantitatively proven in Akaroa Harbour, New Zealand, The Wash, U.K., 
Bohai Bay and West Huang Sera, Mainland China, and in numerous other studies; Ippen and Eagle son (1955), Eagle 
son and Dean (1959, 1961) and Miller and Zeigler (1958, 1964). 14
D E P O SI T I O N ( N u ll-poin t 
h ypoth esis) : 
 The gravitational effect, or settling velocity determines the location of 
deposition for finer sediments, whereas a grain's internal angle of friction 
determines the deposition of larger grains on a shore profile.[The secondary 
principle to the creation of seaward sediment fining is known as the hypothesis of 
asymmetrical thresholds under waves; this describes the interaction between the 
oscillatory flow of waves and tides flowing over the wave ripple bed forms in an 
asymmetric pattern“ The relatively strong onshore stroke of the wave forms an 
eddy or vortex on the lee side of the ripple, provided the onshore flow persists, 
this eddy remains trapped in the lee of the ripple. When the flow reverses, the 
eddy is thrown upwards off the bottom and a small cloud of suspended sediment 
generated by the eddy is ejected into the water column above the ripple, the 
sediment cloud is then moved seaward by the offshore stroke of the wave. 
Where there is symmetry in ripple shape the vortex is neutralised, the eddy and 
its associated sediment cloud develops on both sides of the ripple This creates a 
cloudy water column which travels under tidal influence as the wave orbital 
motion is in equilibrium. 
 The Null-point hypothesis has been quantitatively proven in Akaroa Harbour, New 
Zealand, The Wash, U.K., Bohai Bay and West Huang Sera, Mainland China, and in 
numerous other studies; Ippen and Eagleson (1955), Eagleson and Dean (1959, 
1961) and Miller and Zeigler (1958, 1964). 
15
D eposition of n on -coh esive 
sedimen ts: 
 Large grain sediments transported by either bed load or suspended load will come to rest 
when there is insufficient bed shear stress and fluid turbulence to keep the sediment 
moving,[with the suspended load this can be some distance as the particles need to fall 
through the water column. This is determined by the grains downward acting weight force 
being matched by a combined buoyancy and fluid drag force [and can be expressed by: 
 Downward acting weight force = Upward-acting buoyancy force + Upward-acting fluid drag 
force [ 
 where: 
 π is the ratio of a circle's circumference to its diameter. 
 R is the radius of the spherical object (in m), 
 ρ is the mass density of the fluid (kg/m3), 
 g is the gravitational acceleration (m/s2), 
 Cd is the drag coefficient, and 
 ws 
is the particle's settling velocity (in m/s). 
 In order to calculate the drag coefficient, the grain's Reynolds number needs to be 
discovered, which is based on the type of fluid through which the sediment particle is 
flowing; laminar flow, turbulent flow or a hybrid of both. When the fluid becomes more 
viscous due to smaller grain sizes or larger settling velocities, prediction is less straight 
forward and it is applicable to incorporate Stokes Law(also known as the frictional force, or 
drag force) of settling.[4] 
16
D eposition of coh esive 
sedimen ts: 
 Cohesion of sediment occurs with the small grain sizes associated with 
silts and clays, or particles smaller than on the phi scale If these fine 
particles remain dispersed in the water column, Stokes law applies to 
the settling velocity of the individual grains although due to sea water 
being a strong electrolyte bonding agent, flocculation occurs where 
individual particles create an electrical bond adhering each other 
together to form flocs "The face of a clay platelet has a slight negative 
charge where the edge has a slight positive charge, when two platelets 
come into close proximity with each other the face of one particle and 
the edge of the other are electrostatic ally attracted Flocs then have a 
higher combined mass which leads to quicker deposition through a 
higher fall velocity, and deposition in a more shoreward direction than 
they would have as the individual fine grains of clay or silt. 
17
T h e occu r r en ce of n u ll poin t 
th eor y: 
 Akaroa Harbour is located on Banks Peninsula, Canterbury, New Zealand, 43°48′S 172°56′E. 
The formation of this harbor has occurred due to active erosional processes on an extinct 
shield volcano, whereby the sea has flooded the caldera creating an inlet 16 km in length, 
with an average width of 2 km and a depth of -13 m relative to mean sea level at the 9 km 
point down the transect of the central axis. The predominant storm wave energy has 
unlimited fetch for the outer harbor from a southerly direction, with a calmer environment 
within the inner harbor, though localized harbor breezes create surface currents and chop 
influencing the marine sedimentation processes Deposits of loess from subsequent glacial 
periods have in filled volcanic fissures over millennia resulting in volcanic basalt and loess as 
the main sediment types available for deposition in Akaroa Harbour 
 Figure 2. Map of Akaroa Harbour showing a fining of sediments with increased bathymetry 
toward the central axis of the harbour. Taken from Hart et al. (2009) and the University of 
Canterbury under contract of Environment Canterbury.[ 
 Hart et al. (2009) discovered through bathymetric survey, sieve and pipette analysis of 
subtidal sediments, that sediment textures were related to three main factors: depth; 
distance from shoreline; and distance along the central axis of the harbour. Resulting in the 
fining of sediment textures with increasing depth and towards the central axis of the 
harbour, or if classified into grain class sizes, “the plotted transect for the central axis 
goes from silty sands in the intertidal zone, to sandy silts in the inner nearshore, to silts in 
the outer reaches of the bays to mud at depths of 6 m or more”. 
 18
T h e occu r r en ce of n u ll 
poin t th eor y: 
 The first principle underlying the null point theory is due to the gravitational force; finer 
sediments remain in the water column for longer durations allowing transportation outside 
the surf zone to deposit under calmer conditions. The gravitational effect, or settling 
velocity determines the location of deposition for finer sediments, whereas a grain's 
internal angle of friction determines the deposition of larger grains on a shore profile.[3] The 
secondary principle to the creation of seaward sediment fining is known as the hypothesis 
of asymmetrical thresholds under waves; this describes the interaction between the 
oscillatory flow of waves and tides flowing over the wave ripple bed forms in an asymmetric 
pattern "The relatively strong onshore stroke of the wave forms an eddy or vortex on the 
lee side of the ripple, provided the onshore flow persists, this eddy remains trapped in the 
lee of the ripple. When the flow reverses, the eddy is thrown upwards off the bottom and a 
small cloud of suspended sediment generated by the eddy is ejected into the water column 
above the ripple, the sediment cloud is then moved seaward by the offshore stroke of the 
wave.] Where there is symmetry in ripple shape the vortex is neutralized, the eddy and its 
associated sediment cloud develops on both sides of the ripple] This creates a cloudy water 
column which travels under tidal influence as the wave orbital motion is in equilibrium. 
 The Null-point hypothesis has been quantitatively proven in Akaroa Harbour, New Zealand, 
The Wash, U.K., Bohai Bay and West Huang Sera, Mainland China, and in numerous other 
 studies; Ippen and Eagle son (1955), Eagle son and Dean (1959, 1961) and Miller and 
Zeigler (1958, 1964). 
19
A pplication s for coastal plan n in g 
an d man agemen t: 
 The null point theory has been controversial in its acceptance into mainstream 
coastal science as the theory operates in dynamic equilibrium or unstable 
equilibrium, and many field and laboratory observations have failed to replicate 
the state of a null point at each grain size throughout the profile. The 
interaction of variables and processes over time within the environmental 
context causes issues; "the large number of variables, the complexity of the 
processes, and the difficulty in observation, all place serious obstacles in the 
way of systematization, therefore in certain narrow fields the basic physical 
theory may be sound and reliable but the gaps are large”. 
 Geomorphologists, engineers, governments and planners should be aware of the 
processes and outcomes involved with the null point hypothesis when performing 
tasks such as beach nourishment, issuing building consents or building coastal 
defense structures. This is because sediment grain size analysis throughout a 
profile allows inference into the erosion or accretion rates possible if shore 
dynamics are modified. Planners and managers should also be aware that the 
coastal environment is dynamic and contextual science should be evaluated 
before implementation of any shore profile modification. Thus theoretical 
studies, laboratory experiments, numerical and hydraulic modelling seek to 
answer questions pertaining to littoral drift and sediment deposition, the results 
should not be viewed in isolation and a substantial body of purely qualitative 
observational data should supplement any planning or management decision. 
20
DIAGRAMS AND 
PICTURES 
21 
Map of Akaroa Harbour showing a fining of sediments 
with increased bathymetry toward the central axis of the 
harbour.
DIAGRAMS AND 
PICTURES 
Map of Cape Cod showing shores undergoing erosion 
(cliffed sections) in red, and shores characterized by marine 
deposition (barriers) in blue. 
22
DIAGRAMS AND 
PICTURES 
23 
Illustrates the sediment size distribution over a shoreline profile, where finer 
sediments are transported away from high energy environments and settle out of 
suspension, or deposit in calmer environments. Coarse sediments are maintained 
in the upper shoreline profile and are sorted by the wave-generated hydraulic 
regime.
al abot river and its doing.

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al abot river and its doing.

  • 2. Introduction WHAT IS WATER? THE IMPORTANCES OF THE WATER WATER ON THE EARTH Composition of water WHAT IS RIVER RIVER PROCESSES IMAGES OF RIVERS River ’s deposition, erosion, transpor tation. ALL ABOUT DEPOSITION WITH EXAMPLES. 2
  • 3. WHAT IS WATER? The water is a chemical substance with the formula H2O. The water is very important for life, because it is vital. The animals or humans drink water because the body needs 75% water to do exercise for example: walk. Water covers 70% of the Earth. Like two thirds parts of the earth. 3
  • 4. THE IMPORTANCES OF THE WATER Human uses the water in: - Agriculture: The most important for the agriculture is for irrigation. - For drinking: Because the body need 75% of water to do exercise. - Washing: Washing is also an important component of several aspects of personal body hygiene. - Fire extinction: One of the important use of the water is the fire extinction. - Recreation: For example swimming, waterskiing, boating, surfing and diving. - Industrial applications: Water is used in power generation. 4
  • 5. WATER ON THE EARTH · Water cycle: Water cycle consist in this three process: Evaporation: from oceans and other water bodies into the air and transpiration from land plants and animals into air. Precipitation: from water vapor condensing from the air and falling to earth or ocean. Runoff: from the land usually reaching the sea. 5
  • 6. This is how the water is distribute on Earth. If you could see here that is most amount of water in the oceans.
  • 7. WHAT IS RIVER?  River is a natural watercourse, usually freshwater, flowing towards an ocean, a lake, a sea, or another river. In some rare cases a river could flow into the ground and dry up completely at the end of its course, without reaching another body of water. Small rivers may be called by several other names, including stream, creek, brook, rivulet, and rill. There are no official definitions for generic terms, such as river, as applied to geographic features although in some countries or communities a stream may be defined by its size. Many names for small rivers are specific to geographic location; examples are "run" in some parts of the United States, "burn" in Scotland and northeast England, and "beck" in northern England. Sometimes a river is defined as being larger than a creek but not always: the language is vague.  Rivers are part of the hydrological cycle. Water generally collects in a river from precipitation through a drainage basin from surface runoff and other sources such as groundwater recharge, springs, and the release of stored water in natural ice and snowpacks (e.g. from glaciers ). Potamology is the scientific study of rivers while limnology is the study of inland waters in general. 7
  • 8. RIVER PROCESSES: Three river processes: 1. Transportation 2. Deposition 3. Erosion 8
  • 10. RIVER TRANSPORTATION: (i) Saltation: when pebbles, sand and gravel (bedload) are lifted up by current and bounced along the bed in a hopping motion. (ii) Traction: when largest boulders and cobbles (bedload) roll or slide along the bed. 10 traction saltation
  • 11. (iii) Suspension: very fine particle such as clay and silt (suspended load) are dislodged and carried by turbulence in a fast flowing river. (iv) Solution: water flowing within a river channel contains acids (e.g. carbonic acid from precipitation) dissolve the load such as limestone in running water and removed in solution. 11 solution suspension
  • 12. River deposition: Deposition: when velocity begins to fall, it has less energy and no longer had competence and capacity to carry all its load so largest particles, materials begins to be deposited. When occur? 1. Low discharge during period of low precipitation 2. Less velocity when river enter sea or lake. 3. Shallow water occurs on inside of a meander. 4. The load suddenly increase (debris from landslide) 5. River overflow its bank so velocity outside channel is reduced. (resulting in floodplain) 12
  • 13. River erosion. Erosion: wearing away of river bed and bank. There are four main process of erosion: (i) Corrasion: occurs when the river picks up materials and rubs it along its bed and banks, wearing them away by abrasion, effective during flood. Major method by which river erodes both vertically and horizontally. Landforms: potholes. (turbulent eddies in the current can swirl pebbles around to form potholes that are hollows in river bed and pebbles are likely to become trapped) potholes 13
  • 14. D E P O SI T I O N ( N u ll-poin t h ypoth esis) :  The null-point hypothesis explains how sediment is deposited throughout a shore profile according to its grain size. This is due to the influence of hydraulic energy, resulting in a seaward-fining of sediment particle size, or where fluid forcing equals gravity for each grain size.The concept can also be explained as "sediment of a particular size may move across the profile to a position where it is in equilibrium with the wave and flows acting on that sediment grain. This sorting mechanism combines the influence of the down-slope gravitational force of the profile and forces due to flow asymmetry, the position where there is zero net transport is known as the null point and was first proposed by Cornelia in 1889.[Figure 1 illustrates this relationship between sediment grain size and the depth of the marine environment.  the sediment size distribution over a shoreline profile, where finer sediments are transported away from high energy environments and settle out of suspension, or deposit in calmer environments. Coarse sediments are maintained in the upper shoreline profile and are sorted by the wave-generated hydraulic regime  The first principle underlying the null point theory is due to the gravitational force; finer sediments remain in the water column for longer durations allowing transportation outside the surf zone to deposit under calmer conditions. The gravitational effect, or settling velocity determines the location of deposition for finer sediments, whereas a grain's internal angle of friction determines the deposition of larger grains on a shore profile.[3] The secondary principle to the creation of seaward sediment fining is known as the hypothesis of asymmetrical thresholds under waves; this describes the interaction between the oscillatory flow of waves and tides flowing over the wave ripple bedforms in an asymmetric pattern "The relatively strong onshore stroke of the wave forms an eddy or vortex on the lee side of the ripple, provided the onshore flow persists, this eddy remains trapped in the lee of the ripple. When the flow reverses, the eddy is thrown upwards off the bottom and a small cloud of suspended sediment generated by the eddy is ejected into the water column above the ripple, the sediment cloud is then moved seaward by the offshore stroke of the wave.] Where there is symmetry in ripple shape the vortex is neutralized, the eddy and its associated sediment cloud develops on both sides of the ripple] This creates a cloudy water column which travels under tidal influence as the wave orbital motion is in equilibrium.  The Null-point hypothesis has been quantitatively proven in Akaroa Harbour, New Zealand, The Wash, U.K., Bohai Bay and West Huang Sera, Mainland China, and in numerous other studies; Ippen and Eagle son (1955), Eagle son and Dean (1959, 1961) and Miller and Zeigler (1958, 1964). 14
  • 15. D E P O SI T I O N ( N u ll-poin t h ypoth esis) :  The gravitational effect, or settling velocity determines the location of deposition for finer sediments, whereas a grain's internal angle of friction determines the deposition of larger grains on a shore profile.[The secondary principle to the creation of seaward sediment fining is known as the hypothesis of asymmetrical thresholds under waves; this describes the interaction between the oscillatory flow of waves and tides flowing over the wave ripple bed forms in an asymmetric pattern“ The relatively strong onshore stroke of the wave forms an eddy or vortex on the lee side of the ripple, provided the onshore flow persists, this eddy remains trapped in the lee of the ripple. When the flow reverses, the eddy is thrown upwards off the bottom and a small cloud of suspended sediment generated by the eddy is ejected into the water column above the ripple, the sediment cloud is then moved seaward by the offshore stroke of the wave. Where there is symmetry in ripple shape the vortex is neutralised, the eddy and its associated sediment cloud develops on both sides of the ripple This creates a cloudy water column which travels under tidal influence as the wave orbital motion is in equilibrium.  The Null-point hypothesis has been quantitatively proven in Akaroa Harbour, New Zealand, The Wash, U.K., Bohai Bay and West Huang Sera, Mainland China, and in numerous other studies; Ippen and Eagleson (1955), Eagleson and Dean (1959, 1961) and Miller and Zeigler (1958, 1964). 15
  • 16. D eposition of n on -coh esive sedimen ts:  Large grain sediments transported by either bed load or suspended load will come to rest when there is insufficient bed shear stress and fluid turbulence to keep the sediment moving,[with the suspended load this can be some distance as the particles need to fall through the water column. This is determined by the grains downward acting weight force being matched by a combined buoyancy and fluid drag force [and can be expressed by:  Downward acting weight force = Upward-acting buoyancy force + Upward-acting fluid drag force [  where:  π is the ratio of a circle's circumference to its diameter.  R is the radius of the spherical object (in m),  ρ is the mass density of the fluid (kg/m3),  g is the gravitational acceleration (m/s2),  Cd is the drag coefficient, and  ws is the particle's settling velocity (in m/s).  In order to calculate the drag coefficient, the grain's Reynolds number needs to be discovered, which is based on the type of fluid through which the sediment particle is flowing; laminar flow, turbulent flow or a hybrid of both. When the fluid becomes more viscous due to smaller grain sizes or larger settling velocities, prediction is less straight forward and it is applicable to incorporate Stokes Law(also known as the frictional force, or drag force) of settling.[4] 16
  • 17. D eposition of coh esive sedimen ts:  Cohesion of sediment occurs with the small grain sizes associated with silts and clays, or particles smaller than on the phi scale If these fine particles remain dispersed in the water column, Stokes law applies to the settling velocity of the individual grains although due to sea water being a strong electrolyte bonding agent, flocculation occurs where individual particles create an electrical bond adhering each other together to form flocs "The face of a clay platelet has a slight negative charge where the edge has a slight positive charge, when two platelets come into close proximity with each other the face of one particle and the edge of the other are electrostatic ally attracted Flocs then have a higher combined mass which leads to quicker deposition through a higher fall velocity, and deposition in a more shoreward direction than they would have as the individual fine grains of clay or silt. 17
  • 18. T h e occu r r en ce of n u ll poin t th eor y:  Akaroa Harbour is located on Banks Peninsula, Canterbury, New Zealand, 43°48′S 172°56′E. The formation of this harbor has occurred due to active erosional processes on an extinct shield volcano, whereby the sea has flooded the caldera creating an inlet 16 km in length, with an average width of 2 km and a depth of -13 m relative to mean sea level at the 9 km point down the transect of the central axis. The predominant storm wave energy has unlimited fetch for the outer harbor from a southerly direction, with a calmer environment within the inner harbor, though localized harbor breezes create surface currents and chop influencing the marine sedimentation processes Deposits of loess from subsequent glacial periods have in filled volcanic fissures over millennia resulting in volcanic basalt and loess as the main sediment types available for deposition in Akaroa Harbour  Figure 2. Map of Akaroa Harbour showing a fining of sediments with increased bathymetry toward the central axis of the harbour. Taken from Hart et al. (2009) and the University of Canterbury under contract of Environment Canterbury.[  Hart et al. (2009) discovered through bathymetric survey, sieve and pipette analysis of subtidal sediments, that sediment textures were related to three main factors: depth; distance from shoreline; and distance along the central axis of the harbour. Resulting in the fining of sediment textures with increasing depth and towards the central axis of the harbour, or if classified into grain class sizes, “the plotted transect for the central axis goes from silty sands in the intertidal zone, to sandy silts in the inner nearshore, to silts in the outer reaches of the bays to mud at depths of 6 m or more”.  18
  • 19. T h e occu r r en ce of n u ll poin t th eor y:  The first principle underlying the null point theory is due to the gravitational force; finer sediments remain in the water column for longer durations allowing transportation outside the surf zone to deposit under calmer conditions. The gravitational effect, or settling velocity determines the location of deposition for finer sediments, whereas a grain's internal angle of friction determines the deposition of larger grains on a shore profile.[3] The secondary principle to the creation of seaward sediment fining is known as the hypothesis of asymmetrical thresholds under waves; this describes the interaction between the oscillatory flow of waves and tides flowing over the wave ripple bed forms in an asymmetric pattern "The relatively strong onshore stroke of the wave forms an eddy or vortex on the lee side of the ripple, provided the onshore flow persists, this eddy remains trapped in the lee of the ripple. When the flow reverses, the eddy is thrown upwards off the bottom and a small cloud of suspended sediment generated by the eddy is ejected into the water column above the ripple, the sediment cloud is then moved seaward by the offshore stroke of the wave.] Where there is symmetry in ripple shape the vortex is neutralized, the eddy and its associated sediment cloud develops on both sides of the ripple] This creates a cloudy water column which travels under tidal influence as the wave orbital motion is in equilibrium.  The Null-point hypothesis has been quantitatively proven in Akaroa Harbour, New Zealand, The Wash, U.K., Bohai Bay and West Huang Sera, Mainland China, and in numerous other  studies; Ippen and Eagle son (1955), Eagle son and Dean (1959, 1961) and Miller and Zeigler (1958, 1964). 19
  • 20. A pplication s for coastal plan n in g an d man agemen t:  The null point theory has been controversial in its acceptance into mainstream coastal science as the theory operates in dynamic equilibrium or unstable equilibrium, and many field and laboratory observations have failed to replicate the state of a null point at each grain size throughout the profile. The interaction of variables and processes over time within the environmental context causes issues; "the large number of variables, the complexity of the processes, and the difficulty in observation, all place serious obstacles in the way of systematization, therefore in certain narrow fields the basic physical theory may be sound and reliable but the gaps are large”.  Geomorphologists, engineers, governments and planners should be aware of the processes and outcomes involved with the null point hypothesis when performing tasks such as beach nourishment, issuing building consents or building coastal defense structures. This is because sediment grain size analysis throughout a profile allows inference into the erosion or accretion rates possible if shore dynamics are modified. Planners and managers should also be aware that the coastal environment is dynamic and contextual science should be evaluated before implementation of any shore profile modification. Thus theoretical studies, laboratory experiments, numerical and hydraulic modelling seek to answer questions pertaining to littoral drift and sediment deposition, the results should not be viewed in isolation and a substantial body of purely qualitative observational data should supplement any planning or management decision. 20
  • 21. DIAGRAMS AND PICTURES 21 Map of Akaroa Harbour showing a fining of sediments with increased bathymetry toward the central axis of the harbour.
  • 22. DIAGRAMS AND PICTURES Map of Cape Cod showing shores undergoing erosion (cliffed sections) in red, and shores characterized by marine deposition (barriers) in blue. 22
  • 23. DIAGRAMS AND PICTURES 23 Illustrates the sediment size distribution over a shoreline profile, where finer sediments are transported away from high energy environments and settle out of suspension, or deposit in calmer environments. Coarse sediments are maintained in the upper shoreline profile and are sorted by the wave-generated hydraulic regime.