Rajby_Internship_report

INTERNSHIP REPORT
DENIM MANUFACTURING
SUBMITTED BY
JAWAD KHAN (TE-036)
ASAD UR REHMAN (TE-043)
MARYAM KAMRAN (TE-049)
FALAK ZEHRA (TE-067)
OFFICAL INTERNSHIP’2015
BATCH : 2013-2013
DEPARTMENT : TEXTILE ENGINEERING (NED-UET)

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Table of Contents
PREFACE..........................................................................................................................................8
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.................................................................................................................9
OBJECTIVE OF OUR INTERNSHIP:..............................................................................................10
COMPANY INTRODUCTION:........................................................................................................10
Brief INTRODUCTION:...................................................................................................................10
CERTIFICATION.............................................................................................................................11
CORE VALUES................................................................................................................................11
LEADERSHIP & SMART GOVERNANCE .....................................................................................11
CUSTOMER SATISFACTION .......................................................................................................11
POSITIVE EMPLOYEE CULTURE...............................................................................................11
COMMITMENT TO QUALITY......................................................................................................11
Mission.....................................................................................................................................11
Vision.......................................................................................................................................12
UNITS AT RAJBY TEXTILE: .........................................................................................................14
UNITS AT RAJBY INDUSTRIES:...................................................................................................14
RECEIVING PROCESS:..................................................................................................................15
Reports:...........................................................................................................................................15
Chemical requirement from different departments ..............................................................................15
WARPING: .....................................................................................................................................16
BALL WARPER:.............................................................................................................................16
BALL WARPING (PROCESS):........................................................................................................16
APPLICATIONS:.............................................................................................................................16
MACHINE: .....................................................................................................................................16
TECHNICAL DATA/LAYOUT:...................................................................................................17
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:.......................................................................................................17
BALL WARPING (MECHANICAL POINT OF VIEW):................................................................18
Creel............................................................................................................................................18
Headstock....................................................................................................................................18

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PARTS:...........................................................................................................................................19
Key Features:...............................................................................................................................19
FAULTS OF WARPING:.................................................................................................................20
MACHINE PARAMETERS & SPECIFICATIONS:..........................................................................22
INDIGO DYEING PROCESS CONTROL:........................................................................................22
Concentration of Hydrosulphite .....................................................................................................22
Caustic Soda or pH value ..............................................................................................................22
Dye concentration in Dye bath.......................................................................................................22
Dipping Time ...............................................................................................................................24
Squeeze Pressure ..........................................................................................................................24
Airing Time..................................................................................................................................24
Drying .........................................................................................................................................24
Effect of pH..................................................................................................................................24
TESTING ........................................................................................................................................25
Tritino meter : ..............................................................................................................................25
Spectro photo meter:.....................................................................................................................25
Ph meter:.........................................................................................................................................25
Indigo Identification: ........................................................................................................................26
Formation of Standard Solution:........................................................................................................26
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:.......................................................................................................28
LONG CHAIN BEAMER...................................................................................................................28
OBJECTIVES:.................................................................................................................................30
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS OF MACHINE.................................................................................30
BEN-SIZETEC................................................................................................................................30
Other specications:........................................................................................................................31
PROCESS FLOW CHART:..............................................................................................................32
Sizing chemicals:..........................................................................................................................32
Sizing basic Recipe:......................................................................................................................32
CLASIFICATION OF WEAVING MACHINE:.................................................................................33
1.Shuttle loom...............................................................................................................................33

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2.Shuttleless loom:........................................................................................................................33
WORKING OF AIR JET LOOM: .....................................................................................................33
ADVANTAGES OF USINGAIR JET:..........................................................................................34
PARTS OF LOOM:
MENDING:................................................................................................................................39
Types of faults checked at this stage:..............................................................................................39
CHARACTERISTICS OF MACHINE:..............................................................................................40
Let-Off.........................................................................................................................................41
Guide Rollers............................................................................................................................41
These are used to guide the fabric in open width form to the machine. ..........................................41
Pre Brushing.................................................................................................................................41
Brushing rollers:........................................................................................................................41
Burners:....................................................................................................................................41
Rollers:.....................................................................................................................................42
Advantages of gas singeing machine:.............................................................................................42
Problems:.....................................................................................................................................42
Tests for singeing effectiveness:.....................................................................................................42
USES:..........................................................................................................................................43
PROCESS:...................................................................................................................................43
CONDITIONS FOR MERCERIZATION.......................................................................................43
FACTORS AFFECTING MERCERIZATION...................................................................................44
OBJECTIVES OF MERCERIZATION..............................................................................................44
TECHNICAL LAYOUT:..............................................................................................................45
TECHNICAL LAYOUT:..............................................................................................................46
PROCESS:.......................................................................................................................................46
STENTER (BRUCKNER)................................................................................................................47
Functions of Stenter Machines:......................................................................................................47
COMBINED KNIFE/ROLLER COATING HEAD(ROLLMAC)........................................................49
General Features :.........................................................................................................................50
The final inspection of the fabric is done at this stage...................................................................53
Standard for allowed points:..............................................................................................................53
Standard for roll length: ....................................................................................................................53

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MAJOR DEFECTS:......................................................................................................................53
Running Defects:.......................................................................................................................53
Full Width Defects:...................................................................................................................53
Yarn and fabric testing lab: ...............................................................................................................53
Yarn Testing:................................................................................................................................54
Count Test:...............................................................................................................................54
Strength Test:............................................................................................................................55
Yarn Twist Test:........................................................................................................................55
Fabric Testing:..............................................................................................................................56
Fabric Shrinkage Test:...............................................................................................................56
Skew Test:................................................................................................................................57
3 – Home Laundering Program for Shrinkage: .............................................................................57
Tensile Strength Test:....................................................................................................................58
Tear Test:..................................................................................................................................58
Stretch and Growth Recovery Test:............................................................................................59
Stretch Test:..............................................................................................................................59
Growth recovery Test:...............................................................................................................60
Crocking and Fastness Test:.......................................................................................................60
a)Power plant:..................................................................................................................................61
Gas engines:.................................................................................................................................61
Process/working:..............................................................................................................................63
Maintenance: ............................................................................................................................64
b)WHRB (Waste heat recovery boilers): ............................................................................................64
c)Fire tube boiler ..............................................................................................................................65
Process and working:........................................................................................................................66
Maintenance: ............................................................................................................................67
d)RO Plant (Reverse Osmosis): .........................................................................................................67
Maintenance: ............................................................................................................................68
e)Humidification and Air conditioning plant:......................................................................................69
Working and process: .......................................................................................................................72

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Maintenance: ............................................................................................................................73
Working and process: .......................................................................................................................73
PARTS:...........................................................................................................................................74
WORKING:.................................................................................................................................74
Modaris: (france)..............................................................................................................................75
THE WORLDWIDE STANDARD FOR PATTERN-MAKING.....................................................................75
Marker Making.................................................................................................................................75
Marker efficiency:.............................................................................................................................75
Lectra extension:..............................................................................................................................76
Dimensions of Markers:....................................................................................................................76
Variant:............................................................................................................................................76
GARMENT PRODUCTION FLOW CHART :............................................................................................77
Quality control..............................................................................................................................78
Fabric examination points:.........................................................................................................78
Fig. Fabric blanket.............................................................................................................................78
SHADE:.........................................................................................................................................78
WIDTH .........................................................................................................................................79
SHRINKAGE:..................................................................................................................................79
PILOT RUN........................................................................................................................................80
Requirements to conduct PILOT RUN.............................................................................................80
Main purpose of Pilot Runis fitting Check ......................................................................................80
PRE PRODUCTION MEETING:.............................................................................................................80
PURPOSE:.....................................................................................................................................80
Objectives of the department:.......................................................................................................81
Procedure:...................................................................................................................................81
SPREADING:..................................................................................................................................81
The procedure followed in manual cutting :.................................................................................82
END CUTTERS:..................................................................................................................................82
Technical Features of End Cutter: ..................................................................................................82
STRAIGHT KNIFE:..............................................................................................................................82
Technical features of straight knife cutting machine: ......................................................................83
QUALITY CONTROL IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT...................................................................................83

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QUALITY CONTROL IN SPREADING: ................................................................................................83
QUALITY CONTROL IN CUTTING:....................................................................................................83
QUALITY CONTROL DURING NUMBERING & BUNDLING: .................................................................84
QUALITY CHECKPOINTS IN CUTTING:..............................................................................................84
RANGE INSPECTION REPORT:.....................................................................................................84
MACHINES USED IN ALL REGULAR GARMENTS:...............................................................................84
SMALL PARTS:...............................................................................................................................85
FRONT:.........................................................................................................................................85
ASSEMBLY:...................................................................................................................................86
PRESS FUSING:..............................................................................................................................86
MARKING:....................................................................................................................................87
STITCHING DEFECTS:.........................................................................................................................88
Buffer department........................................................................................................................89
CHANCES OF REJECTION:...............................................................................................................90
QUALITY CONTROL IN FINISHING:......................................................................................................90
Measurement check..................................................................................................................91
Other Critical Check Points of QUALITY CONTROL in Finishing .....................................................91
Quality check points during packing ..................................................................................................92
Labeling & tagging.....................................................................................................................92
Folding/Packing.........................................................................................................................92
Carton packing & shipping marks ...............................................................................................92
Assortment QC check the packs/carton or pcs/carton ..........................................................................92
MERCHANDISING .............................................................................................................................93
PROCUREMENT................................................................................................................................93
STORE..............................................................................................................................................93
How the QC of Store understand the standards..............................................................................94
EXPORT........................................................................................................................................94

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PREFACE
This report has been prepared in partial fulfillment of the requirement of internship
which is done to fulfill the program criterion that is Bachelors in Textile Engineering with
NED University of Engineering and Technology, Karachi. We know that there are still many
lacks of arranging this report and we thank to all those who have supported us in this.
The purpose to do internship and making the report was to observe practically about the courses
that we are studying. We have visited RAJBY TEXTILE and RAJBY INDUSTRIES for the
duration of 4 weeks, to gather the information and to gain knowledge. The blend
of learning and knowledge acquired during our practical exposure at the industry is presented
in this report and the information provided is authentic.
This report covers in-depth study done at these industries. It covers denim
manufacturing, processing and finishing. The first section comprises of fabric manufacturing
at Rajby Textile. The next section is related to garment manufacturing done at Rajby industries
We pay our gratitude to whoever provided us the opportunity to perform the task of internship
that helped us a lot growing our capabilities and learning capacities.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
A summer internship is a golden opportunity for learning and self development. We
consider ourselves very lucky and honored to have so many wonderful people to lead us
through in completion of our internship program.
We are from the NED University of Engineering and Technology, thanks to the Almighty Allah
for showing His blessing on us and enabling us to go well through the training at RAJBY
industries. We are also thankful to our Sir Dr. Ali Mahmood (Associate Professor, NEDUET)
and Mr. Nadeem Malik(HR Manager, Rajby Industries) for believing in us and granting us the
permission to avail this opportunity.
We would like to thank the management of Rajby textile;
 Mr.Danial saleem (owner)
 Mr.Hussam uddin Naim (Director)
 Mr.M.Abdul razzaq kashif (General Manager)
 Mr.Khalid Ahmed (GM administration)
 Mr.Shahnawaz raza rizvi (HOD back processing)
 Mr.M.Ejaz (Manager Operation)
 Mr.Khurram Ghafoor khan (Technical manager)
 Mr.Asad Siddiqui (Utility manager)
 Mr.Najam saqib (RND manager)
 Mr.Zubair Alam (Maintenance manager)
 Mr.M.Yaseen (compressor in charge)
 Mr.Nadeem malik (HR manager)
We are pleased to acknowledge Mr. Shahnawaz Raza Rizvi(Dyeing Manager, Rajby Textile)
and Syed Rehan Shauqat (Assistant Maintenance Engineer, Rajby Textile) who helped us to
work here as internee. Without their untiring assistance, direction, encouragement, comments,
suggestions, support, ideas and constructive criticism throughout this internship, this
internship program could not be well. We do not know where we would be without them. A
humble ‘Thank you’ Sir.
We have learned a lot during our period of internship at Rajby Textile. We have observed our
theoretical knowledge being converted to practical processes.
Last but not least, many thanks go to our advisor, Dr. Ali Hasan Mahmood, for he
invested his full effort in guiding the team in achieving the goal. We have to appreciate the
guidance given by other panel members.
The successful completion of this internship program could not have been
accomplished without everyone’s guidance and support.

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OBJECTIVE OF OUR INTERNSHIP:
We, the group of 04 students of BE Textile Engineering form NED University of Engineering &
Technology got an opportunity to do internship in a professional engineering environment at
RAJBY TEXTILE. Our aim was to get training and experience about the processes happening
in this industry
COMPANYINTRODUCTION:
RAJBY INDUSTRIES
Brief INTRODUCTION:
Ever since its establishment in 1989 RAJBY Traders has come a long way in recognizing itself
as one of the leading woven and knitted fabric/garment manufacturer and Exporter from
Pakistan. The company is managed by a team of highly qualified technical and professional staff,
with years of experience in all phases from procurements of yarn till finalization of orders.
RAJBY Traders has built its reputation in world market as a reliable and quality manufacturer
and exporter of denim fabrics, garments and home textiles.
RAJBY Traders is continuously updating its facilities to help with the increasing consumer
demands and has added another feather in its cap by launching RAJBY Denim.
RAJBY Denim is a project of RAJBY Traders, which is filling colors in the their dreams.
RAJBY Denim is striving for continuous progress with its dynamic and energetic team. Saying
of RAJBY Denim about the efforts for achieving high quality product is that.
“Quality that speaks for itself”
RAJBY Denim is managed by a team of young energetic professionals, producing superb quality
denim from top-notch branded machines.
RAJBY Denim is best described as a high-tech manufacturing facility. Their denim pant is
modern and having latest machines from Switzerland, Germany, China and Japan, to produce
basic to fancy, light to heavy denim in all qualities ranging from stretch, ring/open end, ring x
ring, cross hatch, chambray, Bradford, Canvas, rain denim/sluby, reverse weave, regular, oxford
etc.

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CERTIFICATION
Rajby Industries has the honor of being the first ever Garment Manufacturer and Exporter in
Pakistan to be awarded GOTS / EKO Sustainable Textile Certification. The audit was conducted
by CONTROL UNION
CORE VALUES
At Rajby Industries, we do our best to make sure our actions are consistent with our shared
values.
Our Core Values being:
LEADERSHIP & SMART GOVERNANCE
We are all leaders in our area of responsibility, with a deep commitment to delivering leadership
results and running our business successfully and efficiently by providing long term benefits to
our employees and workers, and enriching the lives of those whom we serve by fulfilling our
corporate responsibility to the best of our ability.
CUSTOMER SATISFACTION
We are passionate about our customers. From providing exceptional service and support to
implementing future business solutions, Rajby Industries seeks to build long-term partnerships in
which mutual cooperation allows our customers to achieve all of their goals.
POSITIVE EMPLOYEE CULTURE
As the success of any organization is largely dependent on the people working for it, we ensure
that every employee has the equal opportunity for maximum professional development for which
we provide constant training, motivation and guidance.
COMMITMENT TO QUALITY
Commitment to quality is at the core of everything Rajby Industries does. We do it by
maintaining the highest work standards; by focusing on consistency and continuous
improvement; by maintaining the most advanced facilities; by hiring the most talented and
motivated people; and by holding each of them accountable for the quality of his or her own
work.
CONSERVATION
We make sure that all our processes and methods conform to all the standards of health and
safety of the community, including environmental safety and workplace safety.
Mission
We aim to offer highest standards of quality products and services with minimum lead time
through scientifically engineered production systems & techniques, state-of-the-art technology,

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highly professional employees & skilled workers, and fashionably innovative product
developments.
Vision
Rajby Industries strives to be the benchmark in manufacturing of garments for its customers
around the world. It is our prime objective to develop strategic partnership and maintain a
superior level of integrity and interactions with our customers.
WHY RAJBY..??
Rajby Industries add superior value to customer preferences by:
 Highest quality and service standards
 Utmost commitment to client satisfaction
 Innovative design concepts
 Compliance with global brand owners

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HISTORY & INTRODUCTION TO
DENIM FABRIC:
Evolution of Denim:
The term “Denim” comes from the city of Nimes in France where “serge de Nimes” was made.
The term “Jeans” came from the cotton workpants worn by sailors in Italy, who were known as
“Genes”.
Peculiarityof Denim:
Denim is made from Indigo dye, a vat dye, which is attached to cotton fabric in loosely held
form in layers .When washed, it fades differentially, which gives its characteristic washed down
appearance.
Defining Denim:
Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two (twi- double) or more
warp fibers. This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fiber,
which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. It is a 3/1 warp- faced twill fabric made from a
yarn dyed warp and an un dyed weft yarn. Traditionally, the warp yarn is indigo dyed. Now a
days Indigo , Sulphur black, Blue black(dyed both in black & indigo color) & various Colored
denim in both stretch & non stretch form are widely used worldwide.

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UNITS AT RAJBY
UNITS AT RAJBY TEXTILE:
 Yarn godown
 Ball Warping
 Rope Dyeing
 Re beaming
 Sizing
 Weaving
 Finishing
 Quality control
 Research
 Inspection
 Dispatch
 Utilities
UNITS AT RAJBY INDUSTRIES:
 Lectra
 Cutting
 Stitching
 Finishing
 Fabric store
 Trim store

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YARN GODOWN:
 Placed where purchased yarn is stored ,as rajby textile has no spinning unit.
 They have 38 suppliers & They purchased 79 types of yarn
 House keeping & moisture control is necessary in this department
 NCR
 Mostly bag is of 100lb, for poly & rigid yarn sizes vary because of spinning & for
cotton, slub & garden yarn sizes remains same.
 Cone sizes are different for eg. 6.25lb ,6.18lb ,4.65lb etc
RECEIVING PROCESS:
 Gate entry
 Delivery challan(DC)
 2 cones from each carton for lab testing
 20 min testing time
 Unloading
 Average weight on weight machine
 Stacking
 GRN for payment
 Mail to purchased one
 SRN
 Yarn issue report
Reports:
 Yarn issue report
 Daily stock report
 Bags inventory report
 Time control report
 Yarn loading & unloading tracking sheet
Chemicalrequirement from different departments
 Purchase requisition report

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WARPING:
Warping is the process of transferring multiple yarns from individual yarn packages onto a
single package assembly.
Direct warping type which is followed at rajby textile is ball warping
BALL WARPING:
Ball warping is the process of winding warp in rope form onto balls.
BALL WARPER:
Ball warper converts package yarn into a “Ball” which is subsequently used in
rope indigo denim dyeing process.
BALL WARPING (PROCESS):
250 to 480 yarn ends are pulled from the creel. Yarns then pass through a reed. At intervals of
every 1000 or 2000 yards (or meters), a lease string is placed across the sheet of warp yarns to
aid yarn separation for the re-beaming operation, which will occur later. The yarns then go
through a trumpet or condenser, which collapses and condenses the sheet of yarn into rope form.
This device is located at the base of the warper head and traverses back and forth, guiding the
newly formed rope of yarn onto a log.
• 14 s yarn, they works on 415 ends or near it
• Mainly coarse count for denim
• Fabric quality can be adjust according to construction
• Reserve packages
• H creel
APPLICATIONS:
Rope dyeing Denim
MACHINE:
KARL MAYER (WARP PREPARER)
To produce ball warps in high quality

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TECHNICAL DATA/LAYOUT:
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:
TYPE BW T-60 (Ball Warper for Denim)
MAX. WORKING WIDTH 1220mm or 48 inch
MC NO. 102087
MAXIMUM CREEL CAPACITY 480
MINIMUM CREEL CAPACITY 334
TENSIONER TYPE Electronic
CONTROL VOLTAGE 24 V DC
MAXIMUN WORKING SPEED 500m/min
WORKING SPEED 375m/min
MAX. TENSILE FORCE 1100KN
MAIN MOTOR 15KW
TRAVERSE MOTOR 4KW
MAX. BALLDIAMETER 1524 mm (60")

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BALL WARPING (MECHANICAL POINT OF VIEW):
Creel
COMPONENT FUNCTION
Cone Holder Hold the cone or arrange the cone in the creel.
Yarn Guide To guide the yarn.
Tension Rod Maintain yarn tension by upper & lower disc tensioner.
Ceramic Guide Disc To guide the yarn from creel to warping machine.
Auto Stop Sensor To sense the breakage yarn.
Creel Panel Board Display where the yarn break.
Headstock
COMPONENT FUNCTION
Guide Reed Uniformly spread the yarn over the warp width.
keeps each warp yarn separate and parallel to its neighboring ends.
Adjustable V-Reed Guides the yarn to follow the fixed path.
Speed Controller Control the speed, crawl speed or full speed.
Pressure Roller Exert required pressure to the warp yarn.
Measuring Device Measures the length of the yarn.
Beam Bracket Holds the warp beam.
Emergency Stop
Device
For emergency stop.
Automatic Knock
Off
Stop machine at achieving required length of beam or in case of yarn
break.
Electrical Panel
Board
To give the automatic controlled function.

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PARTS:
 Tension controller
 Post controller
 Power supply
 Balloon control ring
 Tension disc
 Dancer
 Traverse
 Log
Key Features:
PARTS FUNCTION
Drive rolls Covered by polyurethane, 65 Shore-A, for maximum durability and
performance.
Trumpet or
Condenser
funnel-shaped device.
which collapses and condenses the sheet of yarn into rope form.
Loading and doffing
device
Semi-automatic for loading and doffing the beams. Actuated by the
pneumatic hold-down cylinders.
Ball warp pressing
device
Pneumatic hold-down cylinders fitted vertically, on both sides of the tie-
bar (traverse), for continuous pressing of the beam onto the drive rolls.
Provide programmable, variable hold-down pressure throughout the ball
build cycle.
Braking device Pneumatic brake system for the control of all the disk brakes
on the machine as well as on the diversion rolls and turn around rolls,
thus, ensuring a synchronous braking.
Metercounting accurate ball length with automatic stopping for lease string insertion at
mill designated intervals and at final desired length
Leasing device Semi-automatic device with integrated operator interface for variable
preset of leases
DNC KAMCOS
SYSTEM
Operator Interface IPC /Touch screen 12.1",Ethernet interface for
networking and connection for the relevant data acquisition and
teleservice

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Figure 1 Braking Device Figure 2 loading & doffing device
Figure 3 Braking Device Guider Figure 4 Sheet vacuum system
FAULTS OF WARPING:
FAULT REASON REMEDIES
Lot variation Several lot yarn come from
spinning mill .
Yarn cone must be tested before
production
Chain breakages Irregular maintenance of
chain spoke & gear
Proper maintenance & lubrication of
the chain gear and spoke.
Thermal damages Improper lubrication Frictional dnun should not be kept in
a polished state
Sprockets are jammed Hydraulic system does not
work properly
Proper lubrication must be done
Irregular movement of
the comb.
It causes breakages or
loosening in yarn
Reduce the hydraulic friction by
using lubricants
Tension variation in
yarn
If speed of warper increase Check the tension of the tension disk

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ROPE DYEING:
The flow process of the rope dyeing machine at the dyeing department is explained below:
i. In the creel the ball beam were hanged and running from the eye pot where all the 24
ropes were combined and proceed towards the dyeing machine.
ii. Then these ropes passes form idler roller, guide roller and to the 1st box.
iii. 1st box is called pre wet box in which often mercerizing is carried out and in addition to
this it is also used for washing.
iv. After this pair of ropes are made to pass through steamer which is often by passed
because indigo dyeing that is done on room temperature.
v. After this ropes are passed through 3 washers following one cold wash at room
temperature and two hot washes.
vi. Then these ropes are passed through 8 dye boxes including starting and ending one for
sulphur dyeing and these two boxes are opened. Remaining 6 are for indigo dyeing and
are covered so that N2 may be injected to achieve deeper shades but not used now a days
due to difficult handling. In addition all the 8 dye boxes may be used for only indigo
dyeing.
vii. After each dye boxes there are an air passage is made through rolls called sky rolls where
by the time oxidation is carried out for the indigo dyeing. The intensity of oxidation is
controlled by the machine speed.
viii. After this once again the same sequence of washing is followed i.e. 3 washer following
one cold wash and 2 hot washes.
ix. Last box of the machine is used for the softner and that’s why it is also called softner box.
It may also be used for washing.
x. Then these are allowed to pass through drying cylinders including 14 rollers Teflon
coated and 12 are MS rollers.
xi. Then these ropes are drawn out from the boxes to the coiling drum where these ropes are
stored.

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MACHINE PARAMETERS &
SPECIFICATIONS:
MAXIMUM MACHINE SPEED 50 m /min
OPERATIONAL SPEED 26 m/min
AIRING TIME 90 SEC
NIPPING PRESSURE 50-60 psi
EACH BOX VOLUME 2800 liters
1 ROPE CONTAINS 415yarns
1BOX CONTAINS 7 rolls including 4 top & 3 bottom
BOTTOMING CONTAINS 4
MERCERIZATION 12boomey caustic at 50 degree centigrade
MAIN INDIGO STORANGE TANKVOLUME 7000litres
MAIN CAUSTIC STORANGE TANKVOLUME 2 tanks each of 3500 liters
LIQUID INDIGO SG 1.225
LIQUID INDIGO STORAGE 2700-2800 litres/month
Ph 11-12
INDIGO DYEING PROCESS CONTROL:
Concentration of Hydrosulphite
It is measured by vatometer. It should be from 1.5 g/l to 2.5g/l , or by redox potential of dye bath
which should be from -730 mV to -860 mV.
Caustic Soda or pH value
It should be from 11.5-12.5
Dye concentrationin Dye bath
It is measured by spectrophotometer. It should be in g/l

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Dipping Time
Longer the dipping time, better will be the penetration and lesser will be the ring dyeing effect. It
varies from 15-22 seconds.
Squeeze Pressure
High pressure will lead to lower wet pick up and result in lesser color and better penetration. At
rope dyeing, squeeze pressure is 5-10 tons, i.e. wet pick up is as low as 60%. Hardness of
squeeze roller is about 70-75 deg. shores. It squeeze rolls are too hard then there are chances of
slippage and uneven yarn tension.. If squeeze rollers are too soft then shading will occur. Surface
of the squeeze rolls should be ground twice a year.
Airing Time
It should be 60-75 seconds. Longer airing time results in high tension on the yarn and subsequent
processes will become difficult.
Drying
Insufficient or unevenly dried yarns will result in poor rebeaming .
Effect of pH
At pH of 10.5 to 11.5, there will be formation of more monophenolate ions, which lead to higher
color yield, as strike rate of the dye to the yarn bundle is very high, and wash down activities will
be very good.
At pH higher than this, dye penetration will be less and wash down characteristics are also poor.
FAULTS OF ROPE DYEING:
Leakage of steam in
drying cylinders
Not proper working the
steam valve
Proper maintenance has to done of the
pressure valve.
Wear and tear of rollers If bearing is jamed Lubricant have to use .
Entanglement of rope Improper working of load
cell oil squeezing roller.
Pressure has to distribute properly
Shade variation Faults in dosing system Dosing pump ,filter, outer have to
maintenance properly.
Broken yarn in tile rope Improper alignment of the
yarn in the rope
Change the pressure of the guide
roller.
Irregular rope Improper alignment of the
rope
Guide roller has to work properly

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TESTING
Tritino meter :
It is used to maintain the g/l of the dyes & chemicals.
Spectro photo meter:
Spectrophotometry is a method to measure how much a chemical substance absorbs light by
measuring the intensity of light as a beam of light passes through sample solution.
The sequence of events in a modern spectrophotometer is as follows:
1. The light source shines on the sample.
2. A fraction of the light is transmitted or reflected from the sample
3. The light from the sample is directed to the entrance slit of the monochromator
4. The monochromator separates the wavelengths of light and focuses each of them onto the
photodetector sequentially
Figure 6 Spectrophotometer
Ph meter:
• A pH Meter is an electronic device used for measuring the pH which is either the
concentration of Hydrogen ions in an aqueous solution or the activity of the
Hydrogen ions in an aqueous solution.
• pH meters work in liquids though special probes are sometimes used to measure the
pH of semi-solid substances.
• A typical pH meter consists of a special measuring probe connected to an electronic
meter that measures and displays the pH reading.

26
Figure 7 PH Meter
Indigo Identification:
Indigo can be identifying on fabric sample by using “Stripping Method”.
Formation of Standard Solution:
I. 300 ml solution of 1-methyl-2 Pyrolidenon (C5H9NO)
II. 15 gram caustic (50%)
III. 12 gram Hydro sulfite
IV. Complete 1 liter solution with Water (H2O)
Take 250ml from the above solution in flask and yarn of 2 grams is dipped in the solution, and
made to stay for 15 minutes to complete the reaction with the yarn. After 15 minutes the indigo
dye is become bleed in the solution, this solution is basically known as Stripping Solution.
Now take 05 ml from stripping solution and 45 ml of standard solution and pour total 50 ml (5
ml stripping solution + 45 ml fresh solution) solution in the flask. Check this solution in
spectrophotometer (which describe the absorbency) and by using titrinometer the reading in nm
is noted.
For example 406 nm with factor 0.3
Shade % = reading from titrinometer x 13.87
For feeding we should know some parameters that are,
 Total number of ends
 Yarn Count
 Machine speed
 Shade %
Weight per minute can be finding out by using given formula.

27
Wt./min =
Total Ends
count x hank length constant
For example we have
Total ends= 4980
Count= 9
Hank length constant = 1.693
Wt./min =
4980
9 x 1.693
= 326.835
Feeding:
Feeding=
Wt./min X speed X shade %
gram/liter
=
654 x 31 x 2%
100 gm/liter
= 4 liters
We take gram/liter according to pick up % on the fabric. For wet-on-wet process we control PH,
mV, temperature and feeding for running parameters. And for dry-on-wet process, we just
maintain the level of feeder.
REBEAMING:
Once the warp yarns are rope dyed, it is then necessary to change the yarn alignment from a rope
form to a sheet form before entering the next process, which is slashing or sizing.
 Beaming or re-beaming involves pulling the ropes of yarn out of storage tubs
 Moving them upward to a guiding device (sometimes called a satellite). This upward
travel allows the ropes to untangle before nearing the beamer head.
 Once the ropes come down from the guiding device, they go through tensioning rollers to
help further the separation of the ropes.
 Before going through a comb at the warper, which separates individual yarn ends and
keeps them parallel to one another.
 From the comb, the warp yarns are guided onto a flanged section beam.
At this point, there should be no crossed, lost, or tangled ends on the beams. This can be control
by inserting lease bands after the specific length during ball warping. The total number of yarns
on all the beams in the set should meet specifications for the given fabric to be woven. The
beams need to be in good condition with smooth inside flanges, to be non-eccentric barrels, and
to contain no high or low selvages. The selvage is the edge of the yarn sheet where it touches the

28
beam flange at each end of the beam. It is critical that all the yarns wound onto a given section
beam be under equal tension. This is maintained by using guides, tension devices, and stop
motion controls.
LONG CHAIN BEAMER
MAXIMUM SPEED 500m/min
MAXIMUM TENSILE FORCE 450N
MAIN MOTOR 18,5Kw
WORKING WIDTH 1800mm
WARP BEAM DIAMETER 1000mm

29
PARTS OF THE MACHINE:
Figure 8 Breaking device Figure 9 Tension control dancer
Figure 10 Single end winder Figure 11 Touch screen control

30
SIZING:
Sizing or size is any one of numerous specific substances that is applied to or incorporated in
other material, to act as protecting filler or glaze.
OBJECTIVES:
 To reduce the chances of threads fraying.
 Stiffens the thread.
 Helps the fibers lie closely together.
 To reduces breaking of yarn due to the friction of the weaving process.
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS OF
MACHINE
BEN-SIZETEC
Feed roller diameter 200mm
Pressure roller diameter 200mm
Pendulum roller diameter 200 mm
Lower rollers 2 rollers of diameter 200 mm
Immersion rollers 2 rollers of diameter 188 mm
Figure 12 Loading & doffing device Figure 13 Tension stand

31
Squeezing rollers 2 of diameter 200 mm
Upper rollers 2 of diameter 225 mm
Pre dryer rollers 2 rollers Teflon coated of diameter 200 mm
Sizing box temperature 85˚C
Cooker temperature 92˚
Drying cylinders temperature 100˚C
Taping device 01
Sizing cooker capacity 1000 liters
Size storage tank capacity 1000 liters
Other specications:
 Waxing rollers
 Rollers for moister measurement
 16 beams creel capacity
Figure 14
Figure 15

32
PROCESS FLOW CHART:
Sizing chemicals:
 Starch
 PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol)
 Acrylic
 Softener
 Wax
Sizing basic Recipe:
 1000 liter water
 75 kg starch
 Binder
 25 % liquid acrylic and 94 % powder acrylic
Size Cooking
Creeling
Yarn Feeding
Sizing
Drying
Leasing
Denting
Empty Beam Feeding
Ends Cutting
Doffing

33
 6 kg softener
FAULTS OF SIZING:
FAULTS
Sizing spots: Size material should be added gradually to the mixing tank for good mixing. If it is added
at once, spots are appeared on the yarn.
Repeating warp streaks: This defect is due to uneven tension in the pre beam
Shinnery: This defect due to the friction between the yarn and drying cylinder.
Sandy warp: Due to not crushed or grind the size material properly.
Ridge beam: This fault occurs due to uneven distribution of yarn in wraith
Hard sizing: If the size materials are applied too much, the size becomes hard which cause hard sizing.
Improper drying: Under drying-Bacteria form-Yarn breakage-over drying-Hard sizing.
Size dropping: This defect due to not optimum the viscosity of the size solution.
Size stitching: Due to improper drying after sizing.
WEAVING:
Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are
interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth
CLASIFICATION OF WEAVING MACHINE:
Weaving machines are classified on the basis of weft insertion mechanism which are
1.Shuttle loom: It consist of handloom which is obstacle now a days.
2.Shuttleless loom: It include air jet, water jet, jacquard, projectile and rapier loom. Here in
rajby textile there are all together 112 air jet looms which are working on efficiency above 90%
out of which 104 are cam shedding while remaining are dobby .
WORKING OF AIR JET LOOM:
The air jet weaving machine are supplied with compressed air from a central compressor in the
weave room or are equipped with individual built in compressor. To achieve acceleration of

34
compressed air with the leading end of the weft yarn nozzle is used. The yarn is pulled from the
supply package at a constant speed, which is regulated by the feeder on a accumulator. The
measuring disk removes a length of yarn appropriate to the width of the fabric being woven. The
main nozzle begins blowing air so that the yarn is set in motion as soon as clamp opens. yarn is
blown into the guiding channel of the reed with the shed open. Electronically controlled relay
nozzles provide additional booster jets to carry the yarn across the shed. At the end of the each
insertion cycle the clamp closes; the yarn is beaten in, and then cut, after the shed is closed.
Again some selvage- forming device is required to provide stability to the edges of the fabric.
Here leno selvage was formed.
Figure 16
ADVANTAGES OF USING AIR JET:
Air jet weaving is more popular because the machines cost less to purchase, install, operate, and
maintain than rapier or projectile weaving machines, and the air jet can be used on a broader
variety of yarns than a water jet.
PARTS OF LOOM:
1) TENSIONER:Additive disk type tensioner is used for weft insertion which maintain proper
tension in the weft yarn.
2) WEFT BREAK SENSOR: It is an electric sensor which detect any weft break in the region
between weft package and accumulator and automatically stop the loom in case any weft break.
3) ACCUMULATOR: It is a device which fitted between weft package and main nozzle that
unwinds a predetermined length of weft from the package and store it in the form of no. of coils
on a cylindrical drum. This yarn then fed in to insertion device.
4) STOPPER: It is an electronically controlled electromagnetic device integrated along with the
accumulator. Its function in releasing the yarn at starts of insertion and stop it at the end of
insertion.

35
5) SELVEDGE CUTTER: Located at the receiving side. It is an electronically operated
mechanical device which cut the weft yarn extending between fabric and auxiliary selvedge .So
as to separate the auxiliary selvedge which is passed out as a waste.
6) FIXED MAIN NOZZLE: Its function is to form the air jet from compressed air with the
required velocity and acceleration characteristics and project it in a proper direction in to air
guide channel
7) RELAY NOZZLE OR SUB NOZZLE: Fitted in series along the sley. It creates an additional air
flow in the direction of air jet. So as to compensate the loss of air velocity.
8) PROFILE REED: Here the reed is profiled. So as to form a guide channel which guide the air
jet as well as weft during insertion.
9) WEFT CUTTER: It is cam operated device fitted in the region between the moveable main
nozzle and the reed at picking side. Its function is to gripping and cutting the weft after every
pick at around beat-up.
10) AIR GUIDE CHANNEL: It is formed on the reed. Its function is guiding and confining the
free expansion of the air jet in order to maintain the velocity over larger distance as possible.
11) WEFT DETECTOR: It is an optical device fitted at the end of reed at the receiving side. Its
function is to check the arrival of weft at the receiving side .In case of late arrival or miss pick,
then it sense and automatically stopped the loom.
12)TEMPLES: Very helpful devices to maintain the warp width as sleyed in the reed and prevent
narrowing
13) SENSORS: There are filling detectors on left end of loom. These are sub divided into two
sensors FD1 & FD2. The pick should pass FD1 but not FD2. The machine will stop in the case if
it would not pass FD1(short pick) or pass FD2(miss pick).
ONLINE CHECKINGON LOOM: Here is the d65 lights where errors are checked in order to
increase efficiency.
FAULTS OF WEAVING:
Broken warp If a warp yarn breaks & if the
dropper don’t fall on the dropper
bar then this fault arise
Operator should walk around the
machine to observe this sort of
problem. If problem is n dropper bar
then we have to change that bar.

36
Ball If the ball is too much hairy then
the red will create ball in warp
yarn in between healed shaft &
reed . if the ball is small enough
to pass through the dent of reed
then they will form ball in the
fabric.
To solve this problem we have to
change the reed , to reduce the tension
of the warp yarn
Tight end If the tension of warp yarn is
more than the other ends present
in the loom then
Holes  If we try to cut the balls
of the fabric which makes
the look of the fabric
poor then it will be cut
along with the warp. This
will create hole in the
fabric. This holes become
bigger after the finishing
process.
 it can be happen due to
the clash between fabric
and sharp edge of
machine parts
 If we control the ball we can
control hole.
 worker have to carefull during
the transportation of fabric
from one floor to another to
avoid sharp point tingle with
fabric.
Loose warp in fabric  If the tension of warp
yarn is low in warping,
then this fault appear.
 If the beam contain
broken warp yarn.
 The warp tension in warping
should be equal and uniform.
 We have to motivate the worker
to take care of fabric.
Starting mark The main reason of starting mark
is the extension of warp yarn due
to the tension that create on it.
To solve this problem we have to move
the back rest in the backward position.
Weft bar If count of yarn vary from cone
to cone or within the cone then a
bar of weft will appeared in
fabric after weaving.
To solve the problem we need to buy
yarn with uniform thickness.
Cut torn selvedge If the cutter don't cut the edge of
the fabric properly or if the
weave in the edge of the fabric is
not proper. then we will have this
fault.
 We can solve this problem by
changing the blade of cutter.
 By changing the degree of
cutter.
 By applying suitable weave

37
system in the edge of the fabric.
Double end After sizing if the two end of the
warp stick together and if the
worker don't observe that , then
those ends will go together in the
same heedle eye and create this
problem.
worker have to be careful in this matter
Figure 17

39
STAGES OF FINISHING:
 Singeing
 Mercerizing
 Pad steam/over dye
 Sunforizing
MENDING:
Fabric from weaving is mended
Types of faults checked at this stage:
 Stop mark
 Jhree
 Thock
 Mis pick
 Cut pick
 Oil
 Reed mark
 Loose end
 Tight end
 Kanji
 BD rang
 Slub
Those faults which are mend able are mended at this stage.
SINGEING:
The verb ‘singe’ literally means ‘to burn superficially’. Technically, singeing refers to the
burning-off of. Loose fibers not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure.
Figure 19

40
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS
MANUFACTURER POONG KWANG
ORIGIN KOREA
MODEL PK-G-2B
FABRIC COTTON, T/R, T/C, RAYON ETC.
MACHINE SPEED UPTO 120 m/min
FUEL LNG, LPG, GASOLINE
FABRIC WIDTH UP TO 3,200mm
MACHINE PARAMETERS:
SPEED 70m/min
SINGEING ANGLE 45 DEGREE
DISTANCE B/W BURNER & FABRIC 1.5 inch
PROCESSFLOW CHART:
 Batcher
 Guiding rollers
 Star rollers
 J scray
 Guiding rollers
 Selvedge guiders
 Beaters
 Gas singeing
 Guiding system
 Rewinding
CHARACTERISTICS OF MACHINE:
 Newly designed system conceived for controller's convenience.
 Requiring a small gas energy

41
 Processing various fabrics
 Freely adjustable singeing position and amount by user.
 Individual system with inverters which controls accurately working speed.
 Designed by customer's requirement(Pre heating system, Brush, beater, Cooling system,
Chemical bath size, J-scary and touch screen)
PROCESS:
Let-Off
 Batcher is placed behind the singeing machine.
 Now this batcher become input of singeing machine
 Batcher push the fabric to j-scray
Guide Rollers
These are used to guide the fabric in open width form to the machine.
Pre Brushing
Brushing rollers:
Two brushes move opposite to the fabric and perform the following functions:
 To remove attached or stick fiber from the fabric.
 Dust particles and other impurities are also removed.
 It is done to avoid hard black residue form on surface of fabric.
Air Suction
All the waste is collected through air suction which goes to a dust collecting duct.
Pre blading
Fabric is pre bladed in order to pull out the protruded ends so that they may be burned easily.
Burning:
Burners:
 Most important part of a singeing machine.
 It is a direct heating system that is; the fabric is exposed to flame directly at a high speed.
By providing flame we remove pilling from fabric.
 The flame is used in this machine is a mixture of gas and air with ratio, generation of a
homogeneous flame within the combustion chamber formed by 64 pieces of molded
ceramics bricks. Minimum gas pressure required is 4 bars.

42
Cooling
Rollers:
 Here we use cool water pass through the roll because this section has very high
temperature which may cause the roller to bend.
 Here we have two pipeline system one for cold water which we provide to the rollers,
now water passing through this roller move toward second line (exit line) where we get
hot water.
 This hot water is either move toward the boiler system of industry or we waste this water.
For the short time period fabric passes through this section which normally depends on
the quality of fabric.
SINGEING PARAMETERS
1. Fabric speed (m/min)
2. Flame intensity (mbar)
3. Fabric temperature (C)
4. Singeing positions
5. Burner fabric distance (mm)
Advantages of gas singeing machine:
 Fabric face and back singe at the same time
 Efficient process
 No local cooling
 Even singeing
Problems:
 flame gaps –singe streaks
 melt balls –may dye darker
Tests for singeing effectiveness:
Singeing effectiveness can be ascertained by
 Magnifying glass
 Pilling test
 Sticking tape
 Fabric feel

43
MERCERIZING:
In fabric market, mercerizing play an important role. Mercerizing fabric is more suitable than the
unmercerized one. In denim, it is difficult than as it is done after dyeing and weaving process.
USES:
It is use to increase it’s lustre and dye affinity. For fabrics used in the denim industry,
mercerization can be used for keeping dye on the surface of the yarns or fabrics and to prevent
dyes from fully penetrating the fibres.
PROCESS:
The process involves dipping the material in baths of sodium hydroxide several times to shrink
the fibers and smooth the grains of the threads.
MODEL PK-OM-2000 (STANDARD TYPE)
WORKING WIDTH 2000MM
MACHINE SPEED Up to 100m/min
WORKING SPEED 10~50m/min
POWER CONSUMPTION 160Kw/h
STEAM CONSUMPTION INVERTER SYSTEM
CONDITIONS FOR MERCERIZATION
 Application of caustic soda solution at a temperature of 15 to 18~
 A dwell period of 55 sec on an average, so as to permit diffusion of alkali into the
 fiber.
 Warp tension during alkali treatment and stretching the weft (width) of the fabric
 during washing are necessary to prevent shrinkage.
 Finally, washing-off of the traces of alkali from the treated fibers.

44
Figure 20
FACTORS AFFECTING MERCERIZATION
 Tension
 Temperature and concentration
 Time of treatment
OBJECTIVESOF MERCERIZATION
 Mercerization increases fiber luster
 Mercerization increases tensile strength
 It increases dye uptake of the fiber.
 It produces dimensional stabili
 Obtaining a silky feel with a NaOH solution for the woven and other fabrics.
 Operated by PLC program to get a precise density of NaOH
 Penetrating mangle to play the role of infusing evenly a certain amount of NaOH
solution.
 The drying cylinder made of stainless steel
 increasing dyeing effects and stability in shape measurements and durability.

45
TECHNICAL LAYOUT:
Figure 21
SANFORIZING or PRE SHRINKING:
Sanforizing is a process where the fabric is run through a sanforizer; a machine that
has drums filled with hot steam. This process is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.
The fabric is given an optimum dimensional stability by applying mechanic forces and water
vapourSanforized denim is made from cloth that has been stretched, fixed and shrunk in length at
the mill. This is done in order to reduce the amount of shrinkage that can happen after your
jeans’ first wash. The result of sanforization leads to 1-3% shrinkage.
SPECIFICATIONS
Steam injection at 120C
Length of 13.8
PALMER ironing (90-85)C
Cooling rollers to dry blanket to stable shrinkage (130C)
Fabric cooling roller

46
TECHNICAL LAYOUT:
Figure 22
Figure 23
PROCESS:
1.The process begins as the cloth is fed into the sanforizing machine.
2. It is then fed through the skyer where the cloth is moistened with steam of water.
3. The cloth goes through heated rotating cylinder, which presses a rubber sleeve against
another rotating cylinder, causing the fabric to stretch.

47
4. As the rubber sleeve continues to compress and expand, it eventually relaxes to its
normal thickness and length while bringing the fabric with it, causing it to shrink.
5. Finally, the fabric goes into the dryer where the moisture is removed and the shrinkage
becomes permanent
STENTER & COATING MACHINE
STENTER(BRUCKNER)
Figure 25
Functions of Stenter Machines:
 Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.
 Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
 Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
 Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
 Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
 Spirility controlled by the stenter.
 GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
 Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
 Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
 Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.

48
SPECIFICATIONS:
Brand Name Bruckner
Origin Germany
Speed range 15-30 m/min
Temperature range 50-250C
Used utilities Electricity, Gas, Compress air, Steam
Production capacities 8 ton /day
No. of chamber 3
Maximum fabric width 102”
Minimum fabric width 30”
Steam pressure 2 bar
Air pressure 10 bar
Applied for Open tube fabric
No. of ratamatic burner 6
M/C parts Burner, Nozzle, Exhaust air fan, Over feedroller,
Suction fan, Chain arrangement

49
TechnicalData of Stenter Machine:
COMBINED KNIFE/ROLLER COATING HEAD(ROLLMAC)
Figure 25

50
 Multi-functional coating head offering, on the same station, any possible wet coating
technology.
 designed for both direct and transfer coating operation, then to manufacture artificial
leather, coated textiles and other coated materials in bobbin.
 With RBS it is possible to apply any kind of solvent-based or water-based resin (PVC,
PU, acrylic, silicone, etc) and to work with foamed products.
 A rotating turret enables to quickly and easily change the coating system as required by
the production requirement.
 The coating systems available on the machine are:
a) thickness coating over counter-roller
b) "on-air" coating (floating knife) by doctor blade (knife)
c) synchro roller coating over counter-roller
d) reverse roller coating over counter-roller
e) "on-air" reverse roller coating
General Features :
 Solid welded steel frame,
 Rubberized counter-roller, oil and solvent resistant, hardness 85 ShA
 A/C gear motor to drive the counter roller,
 Motorized micrometric adjustment of coating thickness, independent right/left or in
tandem with digital display on control panel,
 Roller changing device, arranged to mount two engraved rollers and one doctor blade
 Working angle adjustment by manual rotation of the coating knife
Figure 26
 Coating side limiters, manually adjustable either single or tandem

51
Figure 27
 Doctor blades support for synchro and reverse roller coating
 Color doctor blade pneumatic driving group for a smoother movement of the blade
towards the roller
 Feeding through in front of the coating knife
Figure 28
 Entry idler rollers, the upper one lift able by pneumatic pistons for "on air" roller coating
Figure 29
 Idler roller or lower scraping counter-blade at the material outlet Piping for the washing
of the engraved roller

52
Figure 30
 Counter-roller washing system with rubber wiping blade
 Orient able control panel mounted with control keyboard and digital display
Figure 31
 PLC controlled electric system. PLC controls right and left hand processing
thickness, speed of the engraved cylinder, speed of the counter roller, line speed,
working thickness of the knife, time of manual joint skip and alarm devices,
 Main electrical panel with inverters inside the machine shoulder, protection IP54
 Machine is complete with 2 coating cylinders and 1 coating knife,
 Coating height from the floor 1.025 mm – ref. drawing ROJ 26770

53
INSPECTION:
The final inspection of the fabric is done at this stage.
Standard for allowedpoints:
 20 points/100m is possible
 Only 3 major defects are allowed in a 100 linear meter roll
 Only 4 major defects are allowed in 101 to 130 linear meter roll
Standard for roll length:
 A roll must be 40 linear meter length with no splices
 A roll from 30 to 39 linear meter must be in 2 splices
MAJOR DEFECTS:
A major defect is any defect, if found on a finished product, would classify the
product as a B-grade.
Running Defects:
Any major defect found to repeat and / or run in a continuous manner will constitute a
running defect.
Full Width Defects:
A full width major defect would cause that meter of fabric to be assigned four penalty
points.
QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT
Yarn and fabric testing lab:
The main focus of this department is to test the raw material that is the yarn as well as the final
product, to highly insured that the material that we receive or send, meet the standards and other
specifications. The department works under highly controlled environment. We can be
subdivided this department into two parts.
 Yarn Testing
 Fabric Testing

54
Yarn Testing:
The story of yarn testing starts when PO is passed by purchased department and after all
formalities the loaded truck of yarn by supplier is stand in the premises of the mill. The Quality
incharge select randomly about 5% of yarn bags, check the weight of these bags and transfer
some cones to the testing lab. Now the lab members are become active and check the
specification; whether the yarn is meeting the requirement and demand or not. The yarn cone is
placed under standard environment (21±2OC and 64±2 humidity) for 10 minutes, so that yarn
regain its basic properties and moisture content. After conditioning the yarn is ready for some
tests which are follows.
Count Test:
Leas of 120 yards are measured and take the weight of it. By using formula we get the count of
the yarn.
For Example:
Length = 120 yds.
Weight = 6.34 grams
Now,
Ne =
Length in yards x 0.54
Weight in gms
Ne =
120 x 0.54
6.34
= 10.22
Count of the yarn has been checked with keeping the eye on allowed variation.
Figure30

55
Strength Test:
Leas of 120 yards are measured and introduces in tensile strength machine. This machine apply
tensile force until the lea is broken, the reading of applied force is displayed in unit N. Now we
have to find CLSP (Count Lea Strength Production) by using given formula.
CLSP =
Force in N x Count (Ne)
4.445
For Example;
CLSP =
1118 x 10.22
4.445
= 2570.51
CLSP defines the strength of particular count yarn which helps in future processing mechanisms.
Yarn Twist Test:
The test is to make confirmed that the TPI (Twist per Inch) or Twist per cm is per requirement or
not. For this test first we set our yarn of 20cm on yarn twist tester and check the point of the
needle which should be on zero. After starting of the machine the twists of the yarn begins to
untwist, so that the yarn is increase its length and reach its maximum length when the yarn is
become untwist completely. The machine is going on until the reverse twist is made on the yarn
and the needle reach again on the point zero. This machine noted the total revolutions/twists
required for untwist the yarn of length 20cm. Now we can easily find out twist per centimeter or
TPI. For example;
Total revolutions reading = 254
Total Length = 20 cm
Twist per centimeter =
254
20
= 12.7 twist/cm
Or TPI (Twist per inch) = 12.7 x 2.54 = 32.258 twist/inch
After the conformation of all these yarn tests, the truck is allowed to be unloaded, yarn store
department look after further process.

56
Figure 31
Fabric Testing:
When the denim fabric is produced from the loom and covers all the post processes like singeing,
mercerizing, dyeing and sanforizing etc. The buyer give a list of testing with allowed variations,
some of these important tests are following.
Fabric Shrinkage Test:
The fabric piece is cut of 50x50 cm2. And mark before send it for washing as shown in figure;
After Washing the fabric is shrinking positively or negatively from any side i.e. from warp or
weft. We check this shrinkage by using given formula;
For warp,
(
AD+BC
2
– 50) x 2
For example, warp reading is 49.2 as an average, therefore,
(49.2 – 50) x 2 = -1.6 It means -1.6% of warp side is shrink.
The same procedure is applied for weft shrinkage.
A B
D C

57
SkewTest:
Skew test is also taken from 50x50 cm2 piece. Basically skew is tilt effect appeared after
washing as shown,
The skew effect can be calculated by measuring the fabric piece diagonals.
(
AC−BD
AC+BD
) x 100 x 2
For example;
(
68 − 67.5
68 + 67.5
) x 100 x 2 = 0.73
3 – Home LaunderingProgramforShrinkage:
For testing shrinkage and skew effect, the department is used standardized washing machine.
Here is also the buyer forward required specification for washing. The given table tells different
specification of washing machine which automatically set just after loading of fabric and set the
machine on 1A, 2A, and so on.
A B
D C
A B
C D

58
TensileStrengthTest:
In order to meet the requirement of customer and maintained the Quality of fabric we have to
make the fabric strengthen, therefore we need to test our fabric after all processes that how much
our fabric is strong. Tensile strength is measured by using Autodyn 3000 by mesdan. 2 to 3
samples required of warp sides as well as weft sides washed fabric having dimensions 4 x 6
inch2, but here we took 20 x 9 inch2 in order to machine requirement. The machine applies
tensile force to the fabric sample till fabric piece is its fracture point. The machine displayed the
reading of force in N. Similarly we repeat this process for the remaining samples of both warp
and weft sides.
For each warp or weft, we take average reading of force applied and divide it by 9.8 m/sec2, to
convert it to kg from N.
For example;
Warp = (937 + 987)/2 = 960.4 N = 98 kg
Weft = (313 + 317)/2 = 313.6 N = 32 kg
Figure 32
TearTest:
Since the stitched jeans have been value added by tear and wear processes like washing with
stones, scraping, whickering and grinding, and obviously after these processes the end product
loose its strength. So here, we need to predict the strength after tearing on the fabric, we use tear

59
test in which we use 2-3 samples of warp and weft sides from the washed fabric. The dimension
of the specimen is shown in the figure,
For example;
The force required to tear warp specimen F = 4873.76 N
The force required to tear weft specimen F = 4766.29 N
Average = 4820 N
Figure 33
Stretch and Growth Recovery Test:
Here we find that how much fabric can be stretched under by applying weight of 3 lbs. or 4 lbs.
and growth percentage of the fabric upon the removal of weights.
Stretch Test:
 First mark 25 cm on the sample of 18 x 2.5 inch2 as shown in figure.
 Turn both ends, length of turned and stitched fabric should be 3.4 cm.
7 cm
10 cm
43mm

60
 Apply weight of 3 lbs. or 4 lbs. for an hour.
 Check mark in stretched condition which ware 25cm initially and note it.
For example the reading is 32cm.
Stretch = (32-25)/25 = 20%
Growth recovery Test:
 After stretch test, the weight has to be removed and place the specimen in standard
condition for an hour in order to regain its basic properties.
 Now measure the length after conditioning and find out how much plastic deformation
occurs in the fabric sample.
 The growth can be predict or allowed by the stretch percentage, for example
 24% stretched ------------- 2% growth
 24-34% stretched ------------- 4% growth
 40% and above stretched ------------- 6% growth
 8-9 % growth is not allowed
Crocking and Fastness Test:
We take 2’’ x 2’’ wet crocking test paper and rub over the fabric with applying 9N and rub 9
times. The color of fabric emerge on the test paper, so by using shade scale we match depth of
shade and predict its crocking fastness.
Sample Identification:
If the sample of fabric is given by the buyer, we have to find some basic things from the sample
like GSM, yarn count, Picks per Inch (PPI) and Ends per Inch (EPI).
18’’ 25 cm
2.5’’

61
GSM Identification:
For example, we have has a fabric of the following specification.
Weight = 1.11 gram
Length x width = 2 x 2 inch2
Now,
GSM =
gram
sq.meter
=
gm
sq.inch
39.36 x 39 .36
=
gm x 1550
sq.inch
=
1.11 x 1550
4
GSM = 430.125 gram/sq.meter
To convert into Ounce/sq. yards=
gram
1000
X 2.2046 X 16
sq.inch
36 x 36
=
gram x 45.7145
sq.inch
=
1.11 x 45.7145
4
Ounce/sq.yards= 12.68759 ounce/ sq. yards
Yarn Count Identification:
To identify the yarn count from fabric sample, first we take 2 to 3 yarn samples from the fabric.
Each yarn particularly weigh precisely and measure the length from the scale in inch, then by
using given formula we can easily find out the count of the yarn. 2 to 3 tests can give more
precise result.
Count (Ne) =
wt.in gram x 0.54
inch
36
=
wt.in gram 19.44
length in inch
Count (Ne) =
wt.in gram 19.44
length in inch
MILL UTILITIES
a)Powerplant:
 Over all quantity of engines = 5
i. Gas engines = 3
ii. Diesel engines = 2
Gas engines:
 2 Engines
 Model = JGS-320 and
 Manufacturer = Jenbecher (Orient) and Caterpillar

62
(Allied)
 Max power generations = 1MW
 Running power production = 0.87MW and 0.9MW
 Input information
 Gas pressure = 483 mbar
 Gas temperature = 43 centigrade
 Gas force flow rate = 385 Nm3/h
 Output information
 Volts = 483v
 Current = 1912 Amp
 Power = 1282KW
 Frequency = 50.81 Hz
 Exhaust information
 Exhaust water temperature= 568 centigrade.
Fig 34: caterpillar 1MW gas engine fig 35: Jenbecher 1MW gas engine
 1 Engine
 Model = GEN-3516B
 Manufacturer = Caterpillar (Allied)
 Max power generation = 1.5MW
 Running power production = 1.3
 Input information
 Gas pressure = 534 mbar
 Gas temperature = 43 centigrade
 Gas force flow rate = 385 Nm3/h
 Output information

63
 Volts = 4.05Kvolts
 Current = 1525 Amp
 Power = 904 KW
 Frequency = 60.81 Hz
 Exhaust information
 Exhaust water temperature = 600 centigrade (avg.)
Fig36: caterpillar 1.5MW gas engine and diesel engine 1MW
 Two Diesel engines that are used only on Sunday for the gas is not supplied on
holidays by SSGC.
Process/working:
It works in following steps (gas engines)
i. Gas with desired specification is entered into the engine inlet through solenoid valve
according to the requirement of the load of engine.
ii. Then it passes through the mixing chamber where it gets mixes with the air with a ratio of
almost 30:70 (A/F i.e. air fuel mixture).
iii. Then it passes through cooler where the temperature of mixture is decreased to a desired
value.
iv. Then it enters the Turbo charger having two fans moving in opposite direction with
respect to each other. One of which is used for inlet of fuel and the rest one is used for the
exhaust to come out.
v. Then it is allowed to enter the piston cylinder system of the engine consist of 16-35
pistons according to the power output specification i.e. 1-1.5MW
vi. Then it rotates the alternator to produce electric power.
vii. Supply fan is giving the air in the room for the air fuel ratio mixing.
viii. Exhaust fans were fitted to extract heat from the room for each gas engine.
ix. 3 Way valve (shown in fig4) is used for the control of the exhaust from the engine
wheater it should divert toward cooling tower or heat exchanger.

64
Fig37: 3way valve
Maintenance:
i. Schedule maintenance is done after each cycle of 2000h.
ii. Oil is changed after each cycle of 3000h.
iii. Filter change is done after 2000h.
iv. Oil change for Jenbecher is after 5000h.
b)WHRB (Waste heat recoveryboilers):
 Two waste heat recovery boilers are used here with efficiency of 65%.
 Model and manufacturer
 DDFC 1280 (DDFC)
a. Design pressure = 11.5 bars
b. Working pressure = 10 bars
c. Hydraulic test pressure = 17.25 bars
d. Max rated output = 1900 kg/h.
 WHRB-2011 109 (Hresham’s)
a. Design pressure = 12 bars
b. Working pressure = 10 bars
c. Hydraulic test pressure = 18 bars
d. Max rated output = 1900 kg/h.

65
Fig38: DDFC heat recovery boiler (1.9 tons) fig39: Hresham’s heat recovery boiler
(1.2tons)
c)Fire tube boiler
 Two fire tube boilers are used for the generation of steam for processing.
 Model and manufacturer
 S2630 (LOOS international the boiler company) (10tons)
 S2011 (Hamworthy)
Fig: LOOS
international the boiler company 10tons boiler
 Technical information (specifications almost same for the both)
 Feed tank temperature=85 centigrade.

66
 Economizer temperature=150 centigrade.
 Inlet water temperature=100-130 centigrade.
 Burner temperature(natural gas)=180 centigrade.
 Steam generated=10 tons/hour (for 10tons boiler)
a) Temperature=150 centigrade.
b) Pressure=10 bars.
 Steam generated=7tons/hour (for 7tons boiler)
a) Temperature=150 centigrade.
b) Pressure=6 bars.
 Feed water PH=8
 Blow down PH=7.5
 Softener PH=7
 Feeding pump pressure=10bar+10% and 6bars+10%
 Effeciency of the fire tube boilers=85%
Processand working:
The process is carried out in following steps:
i. Feed water having TDS=300 is allowed to mix with condensate with TDS=6-7 and
resulting in the TDS=180 of the feed water.
ii. Then feed water is entered into the softener plant having
a. Hardness=180
b. TDS=180
It removes the hardness of the feed water and keeps the TDS remains same.
iii. Then it is stored in the feed tank so that it may be fed to the boiler as per requirement.
iv. Burner burns the mixture of natural gas and air at about 600 degree centigrade
v. Heat is exchanged in the main assembly of boiler between water and flue gasses at about
400 centigrade.
vi. 70-80% of the heat from the flue gases is extracted and allowed to enter into the
economizer so that the temperature of feed water may be raised to a certain level.

67
Fig 40: Economizer, Burner, Softener, Feed tank
vii. Blow down is done when the TDS in the boiler reaches a certain level i.e. 3005TDS at a
temperature of 150 degree centigrade
Maintenance:
Maintenance is done after each year. Approximate cost for the maintenance of each boiler is
40000-85000 rupees.
d)RO Plant (Reverse Osmosis):
 Control parameters and specifications
 Input water TDS=1900-2500
 Output water TDS=200-250
 Input water volume=2.25 lacks gallon/day
 Output water volume or production=1.5 lacks gallon/day
 Osmotic pressure=250-270 psi
 One membrane product=5000gallons/day
 One membrane input=7500 gallons/day

68
 Membrane filter=0.002 microns
 Reject water TDS=4000 (almost double of the input)
Processand working:
Process involves following steps:
i. Input water is entered into the inlet pump of pressure 40psi
ii. Then it is pumped into the multimedia filter consisting of layers of sand, Carbon, and
Gravel which removes mud i.e. TSS from the input water. After 12 hours the back
wash is done to clean the multimedia filter.
iii. Then the water is allowed to enter the Cartridge filter having a filter of 5 micron that
removes further solid particles.
iv. Then water is supplied to the HP pump (high pressure) having a pressure of 270psi
i.e. osmotic pressure.
v. Then water from HP pump enters the 1st stage shells i.e. a pair of three shells each
having 5 membranes in it.
vi. Reject from the 1st stage is input to the 2nd stage i.e. a pair of two shells.
vii. Reject from the 2nd stage is drained out.
viii. And product form 1st and 2nd stages are stored in the underground tank and supplied
to the specific portion as per requirement.
ix. Along with this process anti sticking and acid to maintain PH (7.5) is also added into
the system during the continues process
a. Anti-sticking=4kg+70liters water
b. Acid (salt acid)= 2kg+70liters water
x. Cleaning is also done after a cycle of 3 months with prescribed chemical by the
manufacturer.
Maintenance:
Break down maintenance is done for the RO plant. Approximate expenditure on the break
down maintenance of this plant is about 65,000 rupees.

69
Fig 41: Cartridge filter, Shell, Multimedia filter, and Chemical cans
e)Humidification and Air conditioning plant:
 Reco Air conditioning plant
 Balanced decentralized air conditioning system
 Technical information and control parameters
 RH required at loom shed=75-78
 RH raised by the Reco system=90+ (approx.)
 RH of the returned air=65-70
 Temperature of the shed=25 centigrade.

70
 Temperature of the supplied air=22-23 centigrade.
 Temperature of the returned air=25-28 centigrade.
 Underground suction duct lines= 4
 Suction fans 3 ,each of 30KW
 Supply fans=6, each of 15KW
 Input and out volume of air in the shed=290000 m3
Process andworking:
It is carried out in following steps:
i. Air is returned from the shed by the four lines of underground ducts.
ii. Returned air is passed through three rotary air filter drums that removes the fluff by
the vacuum create by the suction fans and is removed by the traveler cleaner.
iii. Fluff sucked by the traveler cleaner is collected in the bags outside the room.
iv. The air sucked by suction fans still having some powder fluff.
v. This air is then supplied to the spraying chamber where chilled water is sprayed on
this air and the powder fluff is removed from this air and temperature is lowered as
well.
vi. The sprayed water having powder fluff suspended in it is passed through the rotary
water filter where powder fluff is extracted.
vii. The remaining water is allowed to enter the heat exchanger where water from the
chiller is transferred having temperature 7-8 centigrade.
viii. Then cleaned and chilled air is passed through eliminators.
ix. And the supply fans supply the air in the loom shade.

71
Fi g
Fig42: Waste collectors, Rotary air filter, Suction fans, Spray chamber, Rotary water
filter, Heat exchanger

72
e) Compressors:
 Five compressors in all
 3 of them are VSD (variable speed)
 ZRV315 VSD (Atlas Copco)
 VSD compressor=300KW each compressor
 2 of them are FSD (fixed speed), one of which is reserved
 FSD compressors= 315J=KW and 250KW
 Output air temperature=37-41 centigrade.
 Out air pressure=6.6-6.8 bars
 Input pressure and temperature=ambient
 Dryers=4 one for each compressor.
 Total volume of air compressed=5714760m3/month
 Total rupees=4948328rupess/month
 Compressed air cost=0.85 rupess/m3
Working and process:
i. Input air is entered into each compressor and compressed to a desired temperature and
pressure.
ii. Compressor are connected in series wise manner and the exiting compressed air enters
the steam header.
iii. Then it enters into the air receiver tank which works on cyclone principle due to which
the moisture present in the air is collected at the bottom of the tank and is removed.
iv. Then it enters the dryer where further remaining moisture is removed at due point i.e.
air is entered into the evaporator at about 0-10 centigrade and moisture get condensed
which is then removed from air.
 Each dryer consist of 2 evaporators
 The extracted moisture is removed when the doom signals the solenoid valve
Fig43: Compressor, Reciever tank, Dryer

73
Maintenance:
Schedule maintenance is done after each cycle of 4000 hour of following parts
 Air filter
 Out charger
 Breather filter
 Regressing
f) Chillers
 Hot Water absorption Chiller
 ISB-661H2
 Specifications
a) Cooling capacity=300RT
b) Chilled water temperature=7 centigrade.
c) Chilled water flow=181 m3/h
d) Inlet water temperature=32 centigrade
e) Cooling water flow=409 m3/h
f) Hot water temperature= 70-90 centigrade
g) Hot water consumption=67200 kg/h
h) Power consumption=8.65 KW
Working and process:
It involves the following steps
i. It consist of four parts
 Absorber: it contains Lithium bromide and water from which this solution is
pumped into the generator.
 Generator: solution coming from absorber absorbs heat from the incoming hot
water and converted into vapors.
 Condenser: these vapors are then made to enter into the condenser where it
comes in contact with the inlet water and exchange heat
 Evaporator: then this condensed water is allowed to enter the evaporator where
pressure is very low 4-6 mm Hg which converts water directly into vapors at 4
centigrade
.
Figure 44

74
EFFLUENT WATER TREATMENT:
PARTS:
 Acid dosing pump
 Coagulant dosing pump
 Anionic dosing pump
 Cationic dosing pump
 Deformer dosing pump
 Disinfactant dosing pump
 Air blower
 DFP pump
 DFP R.P
 DAF air compressor
 DAF scummer
 STP(aeration pump)
 CFP pump
MAIN FUNCTIONS:
This department look after waste water from all the departments
The main things which should be maintain by this department are as follows:
Before draining
 ph maintain
 Total dissolved solids(TDS)
 Biological oxygen demands(BOD)
 Chemical Oxygen Demand(COD)
WORKING:
The waste water from all the departments collected in to a tank. The ph is maintain by adding
chemical in the tank then filtration is done by which sludge is separated and the water is allowed
to enter in the aeration tank containing enzymes after this treatment the water is allowed to enter
the production tank where the bacteria’s are collected and transferred from production in to the
aeration where specific amount of enzymes are used and the remaining are send back to the
aeration tank and the water is now ready to discharge.

75
BUSINESS MODEL:
 Purchase recosition raise : When non availability at store
 Recosition raise from any department
 Code generate in ERP
 Recosition.
 Approval from GM
 Recosition to store
 store check the required item
 forward to purchase department(as per instruction of Director)
 quotation from 3 places then approved by the director .
 Purchase order form
 Mail to supplier
 Store
 Delivery
 Good receive loan (manufactured from store and submit to purchase
 Performa invoice
LECTRA
Modaris: (france)
THE WORLDWIDE STANDARDFOR PATTERN-MAKING
 basically a pattern correction & grading software
 Aspect… grading.
 Choose of size.
Marker Making: Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient method of
placing pattern pieces for a specified style.
Marker efficiency: Marker efficiency is determined by fabric utilization, the percentage of
total fabric that is actually used in garment part.

76
Lectraextension:
 Marker: PLX,PLA.
 Piece: IBA.
 Model: MDA.
 Variant: VLT.
Lectra department receives the following information ,after this they formed pattern & do
grading
1. Style name
2. Order number
3. Fabric type
4. Before wash specs
5. After wash specs
6. All sizes with dimensions
Splice marks:
Splice marks are the point in markers where fabric can be cut and next piece overlapped to
maintain a continuous spread.
Dimensions of Markers:
Dimension of marker shows the marker specific area So that we can adjust it according to the
plan width and length
Variant:
Complete specification of garment

77
STAGES IN GARMENTS
GARMENTPRODUCTION FLOWCHART:

78
FABRIC INSPECTION:
 The purchasing of fabric is the job of a trained textile technologist.
 Proper purchasing contracts & point of manufacture testing can save costly delays at
cutting stages.
Quality control is merely a matter of wash ability, abrasion testing and the like as same
authorities seem to imply.
Fabricexaminationpoints:
 GSM
 Bowing
 Width
 Shade
 Quality (composition, construction & weight)
 Shrinkage
To accomplish it they prepare BLANKET as shown below
Fig. Fabric blanket
 Fabric blanket is prepared by taking a fabric piece of 50cmX50cm from each roll of fabric.
 All pieces are stitched together to form a blanket.
 Usually one blanket is prepared of 12pcs.
 Number of blanket may more than one depends upon the size of fabric lot.
 Blanket is than washed as per buyer required washing specification or as per standard.
SHADE:
 Blanket is than analyze to determine the number of shades present in the fabric lot.
 Depending on this the shade band is prepared as shown in figure.

79
 The whole fabric lot separated in a shade wise manner & than issue shade wise for the next
operation i.e. cutting
 It is very important to control the shade of the fabric because we can have more than one
shade in a fabric lot.
 It is necessary to identify the number of shades in a fabric lot so that each shade can be
process separately from the initial stage.
Fig. Shade band
WIDTH
 Width of the fabric roll should not vary; it should be the same throughout the roll.
Example:
Item: Boy’s basic pant
Garment order quantity: 30,000pcs
Fabric consumption per garment @ 60”/61” = 0.78mtrs/pc
Fabric ordered for 30,000pcs = 0.78x30000 = 23,400mtrs
Fabric received from mill = 23,400mts but width is 56”/57”
Again working fabric consumption per garment is done @ 56”/57” & it comes out = 0.82/pc
It means they make 28,536pcs rather than 30,000pcs from the received fabric {=23400/.82)
Conclusion:
a short fall of = 30,000 -28536
= 1464pcs
Not fulfilling the customer required quantity means not controlling the quality.
SHRINKAGE:
 Shrinkage checked in terms of Length & width both in & out is checked.
 Shrinkage report is prepared including
 Style
 Supplier
 Fabric construction
 Fabric code
 Colors
 Fabric width
 Rolls
 Wash
 Buyer

80
Dye
lot.
Roll
no.
Party
mtrs.
Shrinkage
length.
Shrinkage
width
Shade GSM Bowing
PILOTRUN
An important step towards smooth production flow
Requirements to conduct PILOT RUN
 A sealed sample (an approved samples by customer for production follow up)
 Trim card
 Order detail sheet (complete specification of garment)
Main purpose of Pilot Run is fitting Check
 Check the measurement & behavior of each part of assembled garment.
 Measurement of each part is taken & compare with the standard measurement.
 Based on the difference of measurement they adjust the cut size of each part of the garment
& than adjust marker accordingly.
 Other purpose Is to identify the areas where the smooth flow of production can be
affected during production.
 Inspection of pilot lot is also done as per sealer sample & the defects coming from any
particular stitching operation are highlighted in a format like below.
PRE PRODUCTION MEETING:
 It is one of the main tool for quality control.
 Pre production meeting is conducted by production planning and control department.
 This meeting is done before any new style is input in line. The participants of this meeting
are,
1. Production Manager
2. Quality Manager
3. Buyer QC (if available)
4. Merchandiser
5. Concerned line supervisor and floor incharge
6. Cutting and pattern incharge
PURPOSE:

81
 To identify the areas which may create problems during production and feasible solutions
are generated so that quality of production will not suffer and unnecessary delays in
shipment can be avoided.
 The buyer’s QC also elaborates their quality requirements during this meeting. Following
are the purpose of meeting,
 To communicate all special comments received by buyer to related departments.
1. Operations that may create problems during production are discussed and feasible
solutions are generated.
2. Pilot run reports are also reviewed and problems are discuss to generate feasible
solutions.
3. Operation’s breakdown and sequences are evaluated.
4. SMVs for every operation are checked and accordingly layouts are finalized.
5. Requirements of machines and folders are determined and their availability is checked.
CUTTING:
Cutting is the very first process in garment manufacturing.
Objectives of the department:
 Cutting according to the master patterns with 100% accuracy.
 Ensuring 100% quality in cutting.
 100% issue of all the parts to sewing section.
Procedure:
 Cutting department receives the fabric from the fabric department after inspection.
 100% inspection of the fabric rolls according to 4 point grading system
 Capacity of Cutting section is above 50,000 garments per day.
 The work of cutting department starts right from the point of order being received from the buyer by
the merchandising department.
 The cutting floor is a combined unit for spreading, cutting, numbering and bundling.
SPREADING:
 To spread the fabric lay accurately as per the length of the maker with minimum waste at
end of a lay.
 Spreading can be done manually, spread may be laid up by one person or two depending on
the width and type of fabric and size of spread.
 Usually two people are used for manual spreading unless size of spread is very short. One
person may work on each side of the table in order to keep the fabric flat, smooth and
tension free.
 Cutting is done by manual method, skill level is most important factor in the manual cutting and
spreading.

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