Abhishek sarkar Vardhman textiles report - august 2016 internee

Internship Report
August 2016
Duration: - 4th
July to 13th August 2016
Submitted To:
Mr. S. Majumdar
Sr. V. P Production
Auro Weaving Mills, Baddi. Submitted By:
Abhishek Sarkar
Govt. College of Engg & Textile Technology, Berhampore
Berhampore , West Bengal

1 | P a g e Govt College of Engg & Textile Technology Berhampore
1
CONTENTS
Acknowledgement
TPM policy of Vardhman Group
Preparatory Section
o Warp Godown Grey
o Rewinding
o Warping
o Sizing
o Auto Drawing-in
Weaving department
o Loom Shed 1
o Loom Shed 2
o Loom Shed 3 & 3A
Inspection & Folding

Govt College of Engg & Textile Technology Berhampore 2
Acknowledgement
I would like to express my gratitude to ‘Auro Weaving Mills, - Vardhman
Group’ for giving me the opportunity of Summer Internship. Summer training
is of immense importance for academic performance together with practical
knowledge . I would like to thank the whole ‘Auro Weaving Family’ who really
helped me in understanding all the functions and activities of the organization.
My heartiest thanks are due to ---- Mr Biswajit Prusty sir, Mr. Sushil Chandani sir
(HOD,preparatory),Mr. Ajay Jain Sir (Chief Manager PD) and Mr. Sajeev Sharma sir
(HOD,QA & Folding ) .
I would also like express my warmest gratitude to Mr.Sumit pandit sir(HOD
shed unit 1) , Mr. Devindar Sharma sir (HOD,Loom shed unit -2),Mr. Nilesh raval
sir(Manager PD) ,,Mr. Vikram sir, Mr. Rajnish gupta sir , Mr. Devendra jangid
and Mr. Achintya kundu(QA department) , Mr Monirul Sk sir, and Mr Prabir
Man Sir,,,,,,,,, & all others at ‘Auro Weaving family ‘ without whom I couldn’t
have spend my last 40 pleasurable days for completing my Summer
Internship.
Abhishek Sarkar
Summer Trainee July 16
(GCETTB, Berhampore, West Bengal)

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TPM POLICY OF VARDHMAN GROUP
Maximize overall effectiveness and reliability of the plant and machinery by aiming at,
 “Zero Break-Down”,
 “Reducing defects’’,
 “Reducing losses ‘’and
 Improving safety through nurturing teamwork and continuous development of all
employees, following JIPM roadmap for implementation of “Total Productive
Maintenance ’’ (TPM) in the company.

WARP GODOWN GREY
Inventory for Incoming - yarn packages (Boxes & pallets ) which is a raw material
for weaving.
Capacity of godown – 18-20 Tons.
Training Period- Under – Mr. Sushil Lal Chandani
Sections
  
o Warp Godown Grey
o Rewinding
o Warping
o Sizing
o Auto Drawing-in
Objective:
The main objective of the preparatory
department is to prepare the warp yarn
for weaving & hence conversion into
Greige Fabric.
4th
july to 11th
july

5
Daily stock Chart:-
-Study Chart from 04 th July 2016-
Sl No Count Lot No Supplier Quantity Remarks
Pallet Box
1 30 08 VMT 4P 35
2 40 230 AURO 3P 35
3 60 206 ARISHT 2P 14
4 2/60 01 VSM 1P 21
Mainly two types packages are made –
1) Pallet
2) Cartoon
-Incoming Yarn Pallet parameters-
Spinning Mill Name Hall No- Date-
LOT NO-- XXXXXXXXX
COUNT 20/1 C REMARKS
PALLET NO XXXXX
NT WT 426.00KG
GROSS WT 461+_ 2KGS
NO OF CONE 176
Following instructions are specified.
o Ex. 100 % cotton yarn on cones
o Lot no – A3GC260007
o Net Weight – 342.00kg

o Gross Weight – 378.00
o Excise no – 206083
Incoming Yarn Box/Cartoon parameters
-Following instructions are specified-
Description – 100% cotton yarn on cones
Count – 32s/1 combed warp
Lot no – O4GCI32904
Gross Weight – 50.30 kgs
Net Weight – 47.70 kgs
Excise no – 439020
(above instructions are common to all cartoons only values changes)
-for different counts yarns different colour's cones used for easy
Separation.
XXX (Unique Cartoon Code) SPACE FOR BARCODE
Count 1/30 cc AO-R-KWNRZ-CCCAONK
Remarks
Desc NE 30/1 KDD COT/WVG/ GR YN
Shade xxx
Lot No E1GK130008
Gr Wt 45.00KGS
Net wt 47.90KG
Excise No xxx
Date 1/5/2016

7
B 2 F C 1 4 0 0 3 4
 First letter indication –
A – Auro spinning
B – Vardhman Spinning Mills
C – Vardhman Fabrics
E – Vardhman Merubini Textiles(VMT)
L – Arisht Sinning Mills
O –Arihant Spinning mills
Q- Anant Spinning Mills
V – Vardhamn Spinning And General Mills
Y – Vardhman Yarns
 Second Number indication –
Hall number of spinning unit.
 Third letter indication – ( YEAR)
A – 2010
B – 2011
C – 2013

D – 2014
E – 2015
F – 2016
 Fourth letter indication – Yarn type :
K - CARDED
C – COMBED/COMPACT
O – OPEN END
S – SLUB
 Fifth and sixth number indication – Count of yarn
 Last three number indication – Serial Number
Auro Weaving Mills gets its supply of raw material mainly
 Ring Yarn
 Combed Compact Yarn
 Carded Yarn
 OE yarn
 Core Spun Yarn
 SIRO Yarn
from its units of the Vardhman Group ,,and some of the raw material mainly
 Polyester from other suppliers.
YARN AS RAW MATERIAL

9
Yarn Godown section beside preparatory is divided in different section ,several
specified count of yarn is placed in their appropriate position.
The major yarn supplier to Auro weaving mill is following:-
a) Auro spinning mill Baddi
b) Arist spinning mill Baddi
c) Vardhman fabrics limited Budhni
d) VSM 100% EOU unit Baddi
e) VTL Satlapur
f) VSGM, Satlapur
g) VMT, Baddi
h) Reliance Polyester Yarn
Some of OBSERVED counts used at AWM –
Warp & Weft
50c, 40c, 50comp, 32k, 70c, 20spx, 30spx,,, 60LY, 50LY, 50SPX, 16K.SPX,
20k, 80comp, 60comp, 2/60comp ,40comp, 2/50EliTw, 2/40c, 30comp,
32comp, 16OE, 50c, 30c, 80c, 60c, 32c, 7OE, 10OE, 14OE, 14PC, 16OE,
16K, 20K, 24K, 2/20K, 2/30K , 2/80C, 30SPX
Pallets dimensions -
No. of cones
160 cones 176 cones
250cones 275 cones
396 cones
Boxes dimension-

a) 12 cones b) 18 cones
Color codification of cones:-
DESCRIPTION UNIT COUNT
1) Red(plastic cheese) , AURO 7OE
2) Blue(plastic cheese) AURO 16OE
3) Yellow-Black(plastic cones ARISHT 40c
4) Sky Blue- Red (plastic cone) ARISHT 32/1 K
5) Yellow-Green (plastic cone VSM 2/40 comp
6) Green (plastic cone) VSM 50 c
7) Red top with black line 2/40 VC,
8) Paper cone( with blue star) 2/80c
9) Paper cones (with grey arc) 50/2cwc
10) Red –Green top 60c
11) Paper cones( with white lines ) 50comp
12) Cones ( pink) 80/3comp
13) YELLOW + BLACK AURO 40/2
14) RED + CYAN VSM 30/1
15) BLACK + WHITE ARISHT 32/1

11
Rewinding
 Left over bottom cones are rewound to get full cones and can be
used in selvedge purpose & Catch Cord purpose or other. There are
two rewinding machines (drum driven) .
Rewinding M/c No.1
 Make - Textool highspeed RT 80 winder (1992)
 No. of spindles - 24 (12 on either sides)
 Tensioner - Disc type (
o Red disc- 5gm
o Green disc- 7gm
o Black disc- 10gm)
 Speed - 500-550 rpm
Rewinding M/c No. 2
 Make - P.S. Mettler by PS industrial Engineers Limited (1997)
 No. of spindles - 24 (12 on either sides)
 Tensioner - Disc type
 Speed - 500-550 rpm

Stop Motion for yarn breakage
Both the machines have mechanical type of stop motions.
Passage of yarn through m/c:-
Creel  guide  tensioner  stop motion  winding drum 
package

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Phases of operation-
• 1st phase : CREEL SIDE- unwinding of the threads from the bobbins .
• 2nd phase: HEAD-STOCK side- Simultaneous rewinding of all these threads on
the warpers beam.
* These two operations is the prerequisite to produce a beam where all threads
show same tension and length.
*AMBIENT CONDITIONS IN WARPING DEPARTMENT*
Temperature Range 27 C to 32 C
Objective:
The major objective of warping is to prepare a warp sheet of
desired length containing a desired number of yarns that are
wrapped on a flanged beam.

R.H. 60% to 66%
Temperature in warping department -
Dry Bulb Temperature - 320
c , 90 F
Wet Bulb Temperature - 230
c , 73 F
 The Warping Process-
Only Direct warping process is employed.
a. DIRECT WARPING:-
It consists of preparing number of full width warping beam with required
length, called as one set. The total no of ends warped in number’s of beam
depending on the capacity of creel. These all beams of one set put together
on sizing creel for the sizing process, which result in formation of weaver’s
beam.
Warping Machines-
Preparatory department has three direct warping machines

15
Direct warping machines
o 1 x Benninger Wpg. M/c (Ben- Direct 800).
o 2 x Benninger Wpg. M/c (Ben- Direct 1000).
MAKE: - Ben-direct 800
Benninger zwill
Benninger co. ltd. Uzwill Germany
MODEL: - 1997
SPEED: - Maximum running speed – 1200 mpm
Warping M/c 1 Warping M/c 2 Warping M/c 3
Make-Benninger Make-Benninger Make-Benninger
Model-BEN-1000 Model-BEN-800 Model-BEN-1000
Installation-2000-2001 Installation-1997-1998 Installation-2003-2004
Creel Capacity-640 Creel Capacity-576 Creel Capacity-640

 Other Parameters-
 Type of creel V creel
 Creel capacity 576
 Weight of a cone 1.5-2.5 kg
Brake system
 HYDRAULIC BRAKING SYSTEM ()
Study on Brakes on Warping M/c
 2 Brakes for Warpers Beam
 1 Brake on LHS for Guide roller
 2 Brakes on pressure drum.
(1). WARPER’S BEAM DIMENSIONS:-
SMALL
Flange diameter = 800 mm
Beam length = 1800 mm

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* THE PASSAGE OF YARN
Cone  Balloon breaker  Tension bars  Yarn stop motion 
Comb  Measuring roller  Press roller  Warper’s beam.
DRIVINGS
 To warpers’s beam
Main motor  pulley  weaver’s beam (attached to pulley)
 To comb
Motor  through chain to shaft  comb attached on shaft.
The comb has a zig zag shape (9 ends, 13 ends) and it moves to and fro as
well as up and down.
 Pre tension settings – here setting of tension rod depth is done through scale
on the creel.

 Yarn stop motion – this machine have electronic (capacitance based) type
of yarn stop motion. It actuated after 5 sec of machine start running.
 Pressure bar – to maintain tension in the yarn ends when the machine stops
and during running it releases its pressure.
 Yarn cutter – after funishing warping the ends are cut by a running yarn
cutter which moves horizontally in a slot.
 Fluff removal – by internal blower system.
 Microprocessor control and display system.
MAKE: - Ben direct 1000
Benninger
Benninger co. ltd. Uzwill,
SPEED:-
Maximum operating speed-1200mpm
Normal running speed – 800 mpm
MACHINE PARAMETER
Type of creel V Creel
Creel capacity 640

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Break system Hydraulic brake system
Drive to warper’s beam Direct drive from motor
Loading and unloading Hydruallic
Some Normal running speed – & its dependency on the count of yarn
Yarn count Running speed Pre –Tensioner
settings
7s, 10, 14s, 16, 20s 800 m.p.m. 8mm
2/30s, 2/40s, 2/20s 800 m.p.m. 8mm
40c,42cvc,45pc,2/80c 700 m.p.m 4mm
40s, 50s, 60s and above 600 m.p.m. 0mm
 SMALL
 LARGE
Empty beam width = 300 mm
** Large beams can run only on BEN 1000 machines,

Time Study-
Yarn passing through pretensioner rods, dropwire time taken is 30 minutes Time
for combing is 10 minutes so total time taken in creeling is 50 minutes.
Cooling device attachment of Benninger
 To reduce heat generation one cooling device is used at left side
of each warping machine.
 Manufacturer - Rittal India Pvt Limited,
 Specifications -
o Temperature range - 200
c-
500
c
o Noise level - 61 db
o Operating pressure - 27 bar
o Rated voltage - 230V, 1-50hz
o Starting current - 10.0 A
 Absolutely cylindrical yarn build-up & evner beam surface
The yarn build-up is determined by the tension of the warp
threads and the press roller force. Uniform thread tension from
the middle of the beam to the outside, i.e. from the front to the
rear ends in the creel, must be assured.
 Exact thread guidance
The first requirement for non-crossed ends is precision thread
guidance with minimal free thread lengths from zig-zag comb to
beam.

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 Advanced microprocessor than Ben-800 and touch screen type of
control panel and display screen.
 Monitoring on the creel front to show the exact position of the
broken end otherwise total no. of ends in the creel should be
checked.
 Yarn stop motion is electronic with sensors.
 Pre tensioner settings are done on computer.
 Number of ends fed in the computer = no. of end stop motions.
 Advanced microprocessor display mechanism.
 Highly efficient brake system (with very small time). So the broken
end doesn’t wind on the beam.
 No Crossed threads.
 Exact centring and beam drive
 Short braking distances
 Precise length measuring
 Automatic windshield
 Effective comb blow-off

BEN-1000( M/c no 1) BEN-800( M/c no 2) BEN-1000( M/c no 3)
 1. Creel capacity – 640  Creel capacity - 576  Creel capacity - 640
 2 Large flange beams
upto 1000 mm
supported
 Only small flange
beams of 800 mm
supported
 Large flange beams
upto 1000 mm
supported
 3.Max Speed : 1000-
1200mpm
 Max Speed : 800-
900mpm
 Max Speed : 1000-
1200mpm
 4.Photo-elecric sensor
is used on creel
 Electro-magnetic
sensor are used on
creel
 Photo-elecric sensor
is used on creel
 5.Tension- Rod type
 Set tension
automatically by
inputs in HMI.
 Tension- Rod type
 Set tension manually(
scale provided)
 Tension- Rod type
 Set tension
automatically by
HMI.
 6.Indicator lamps are
provided
 Indicator lamps are
not provided
 Indicator lamps are
provided
 7.Creel rotate both the
sides
 Creel rotate at both
the side at a time(no
provision to rotate
either left or right)
 Creel rotate either
left or right or both
the sides
 8.Integrated
monitoring system
 Only one small disply
provided for entering
the data.
 Integrated
monitoring system
 09.Courser as well as
finer count can be used
 Generally courser
counts are used & OE
yarns.
 Courser as well as
finer count can be
used
 10.On creel only one
LED used which
indicated end break at
column only
 Here also One LED
provided.
 Here one LED
provided with sub 8
small LED which
indicated yarn break
at column and row

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both.
WARPER’S CHECK REPORT
The warper working on the beam is required to fill the report, which includes
the data like beam no., warper’s name, no. of cones, length and the record of
no. of breakage of each kind. The report is prepared by the preparatory
department as per the orders received and checked by shift officer in charge.
Following parameters are specified on report :
 Count - Of the Article running
 Machine number- On which M/c the quality ill run
 Number of creels- Needed as per requirement to produce desidred
no of ends
 Sort number- The sort no of the article
 Lot number- Lot no of its origin
 Mixing- Mixing used in the yarn used
 Supplier- Supplying mill of yarn
 Selvedge Count- Count of yarn to be used in selvedge
 Selvedge ends- No of reqd. ends in selvedge
Reasons of breakages –
 Weak place- fibers are protruding
 Foreign matter- like hairs and other than that fibre.
 Cut cone- sharp cut

 Entanglement- entangled yarn at the bottom of cones.
 Bad winding- layers can't be separate properly.
 Slough off- Concentric layers comes out suddenly.
 Cone finish- when cone finish before standard length.
 Others- Other miscellaneous faults,due to damaged parts (like
reed),cone tip,when yarn breaks due to catch in stop motion.
ANALYSIS OF REASONS OF END BREAKAGE-
End breakage may occur due to following reasons:-
 Spinning faults :- weak places, soft places, slubs, foreign matter (plastic/hair)
 Winding faults :- slough off, cut cone, entanglement, bad winding.
 Warping faults: - faulty stop motions, faulty thread passage, entanglement.
 Miscellaneous faults :- cone finish, others.
Denting waste-
Waste due to denting operation which involves pulling of yarn from creelside
upto headstock, We takes all yarns which are creeled to the head stock and denting is
done there, this is known as denting waste.
Standard value -9 meter
Creel waste –

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Waste at the last when ends are cut using baldes fixed with creel.
After creel cutting on warping machine,yarn remaining in passage between creel and head
stock is known as creel waste.
Standard value -9 meter
Waste Management
-Ensure less length of yarn is wasted willing parallizing the threads & cones shouldn’t drop
-Operation of Denting should be done immediately when yarn comes to head stock.
-Prepared warper's beam should be kept in proper condition. Care should be taken that
yarn should not cut/ get damaged , by beam's flange.
As per the TPM policy of the company focussing on Zero defects, Zero Wastage &
High Productivity , specific outlines were laid for each machine operation.
Working instructions for warper :
 Step 1:Take charges of last shifts warping 's warp & warping machine before
starting shift from last warper.check counts,lot no.,supplier & cone tip physically.
 Step 2.Check no of cones after creeling and match with check report.

 Step 3.now rotate creel and pass every line 's yarn from stop motion &thread
guide.
 Step 4.now pass one thread through one dent by starting from combs middle.
 5. Confirm surface of flange of empty beam with the help of file.
 6.Now put empty beam in machine and take care that it should not damage press
roll.
 7.now wound all yarns and write down beam number in warping check report.
 8.match flange according to comb so beam's edge should not up or down.
 9.now set parameters length,speed and tension etc.
 10.confirm running program on warping machine according to standards and now
start machine.
 11.if there is breakage in yarn then mind it and take care of crossing.
 12.separate every wqrp breakage of yarn and write down in warping check report.
 13.check warp lining effect in yarn and width of warp sheet before starting
machine.
 14.if there is more breakage then inform shift officer.
 15.to save time keep next empty beam ready before warping of full length.
 16.after cutting beam article no.,length,beam no.,no. Of yarns in beqm and signed
slip should be there on beam.
 18.put warping beam. one by one in sizing department.
 19.if there is any voice smell,oil leakage or any other problem then inform shift
officer.
 20.clean machine properly after cutting creel.
 21.check sizing department s feedback and take advise from shift officers.

 -adjustable reed or expanding comb has two types of motion-
 1.lateral movement (to prevent engagement by changing ends relative position)
 2.vertical movement (to reduce friction so life time of yarns increases)
 -pressure roller (in this hydraulic pressure is used) to prevent lap fault so for
preventn pressure decreasing when diameter increases.

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Working instructions for creel boy:
1.take charge of warp & warping machine before starting shift from last shift's creel boy.
2.check yarn's count,lot no.,suplier and cone tip physically.
3.clean machine properly after creel cut.
4.keep all bottom(remaining cone)and take care these shoud not mix and keep count,lot
no.,and no. Of bottoms with it
5.bottoms should be cut and place in rewinding count.
6.carefully feeding empty creel according to next program and check every cone.
7.now take out yarns end from creeled cones and keep ready.
8.run machine in the absence of warper but maintain quality.
Working instructions for yarn carrier
1.take charge of warp on warping and warp godown from last shift 's yarn carrier.
2.take all machine 's program from shift officer.
3. check quantity of cones in godown according to count and lot.
4.take pallets or cartoons at required place with the help of pallet truck.
5.write down pallet no. in warping check report.
6.cut pallet plastic from top and remove plastic according to cone's requirement.
7.at the time. Of warping yarn should not entangle that s why break cone /cheese end.
8.at the time of creeling if any cone or cheese damaged in pallet then inform shift officer.
9.place package one by one properly.
10.load creel in sequence.
11.after creeling take plastic rapper,separator and paper at right place.

12.in every morning take stock of warp yarn and write down on board.
13.when new yarn comes then take care at the time of placing pallet or cartoons.
Q. Study date- 10th
july 2016
Total Ends- 632
Breakages observed- 7 x 1min + 10 x 1.5 min = 22min
Beams = 6 x 3min = 18 min
Opening & Cutting = 6 x 1 min= 6 min
Creeling & Denting = 45 mins
Total Breakage time = 91mins ( appx)
Time ELAPSED = 4 hr30min = 270 mins
Running Time= 270mins-190 mins
Calculated production= 700m/min x 179 min
=125300m
Actual Production= 6 x 17917m = 107502m
So Efficiency= Actual/ Calculated*100 = 85.7% appx

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What?
Warp yarns are used to supply on looms where warp threads are subjected to
repeatedly occurring various stresses like cyclic strain, flexing, and abrasion.
These unavoidable stresses cause frequent warp breaks which consequent in the
Objective:
The main objective of Sizing is to impart strength to warp yarn for
weaving process.

form of loom stoppages and finally, efficiency loss and fabric faults come in
account. To minimize these problems, warp yarns are needed to be sized.
Why?
 Increase weavability strength of the yarn
 Increasing strength of the finer yarn.
 Lowering yarn hairiness.
 Binding-in fibres, hence preventing fly generation.
 Improved abrasion resistance of the yarn.
 To increase the yarn resistance to reiterate deformation actions
 yarn is subjected to special treatment or gluing with size
 The size is a special adhesive composition.
Typical factors for sizing operation.
 Size paste composition
 Method of preparation
 Its application to the warp yarns
The sizing paste should have film forming property on the yarn which
increases its strength, decreases its abrasion resistance; is still flexible on
drying and which can be easily washed out (desized).
SIZE PREPARATION
Size is prepared at the first floor and transferred to machine with the help of
pipes. Size preparation includes following steps –

31
SIZE INGREDIENTS:-
 Texoplast 86: - It is sulpho- esterified starch. It is better adhesive than maize
starch. It is
alkaline in nature.
 Sonycryl S: - It is a binder and chemically is an ammonium salt based acrylic
product. It has low viscosity and high binding property.
 Ketanol SZ: - It is a binder. Its small sized particles easily penetrate into the
yarn and strongly bind it from inside as sell as medium/bigger sized particles
protect its outer surface. It has similar properties to that of PVA.
 Soloact SFR
Step 1
• Premixer
•First all the chemicals are mixed here with the help of stirrer for 5 – 10 min. Then mixture is transferred
to cooking vessels through pipes. There is one premixer for all cooking vessels. It has capacity of 997
liters.
Step 2
• Cooking
•There are 3 cooking vessels each with a max. Capacity of 1200 lts. Mfd by Kasandas Becharadas & Sons
(Ahamedabad). Cooking is done through direct and indirect steam for 30 minutes. The conditions inside cooker are:
•Pressure = 40 – 45 PSI
•Temperature = 120-1220C
•Capacity: bottom 8” is of 200 ltrs then 31.5 ltrs per inch.
Step 3
• Storage
•Storage vessel -– From cooking vessel size is transferred to storage vessel where it is
stored at the temperature of 85-90 C and with continuous stirring for further transfer
to machine according to the requirements
Step 4
•Inspection & Checking
•Supervisor checks the viscosity and solid content before transferring the prepared size to
machine
Step 5
• Supply to Sizing Machine
•The size paste is finally transferred to sizing machines with the help of pipeline.

 Softner .
 Water :- It is a good solvent
SIZE RECIPE ACCORDING TO YARN COUNTS
Ingredients 16k,20k,
2/50ET,
2/60ET,
6/120ET
,2/60CO
T/tencel
30k,32k
,32CO
MP,14p
c,20pc,
20org,3
0org
24c,30c
,40c,12
tencel,
30tenc
el,24te
ncel,18
modal
50c,60c,3
0cHeavy
Compact yarns
30s-80scomp,
2/120 comp
100E,120E,
16oE,20oE,
2/40
comp,2/50
comp,3/60
comp,3/80
comp
Texoplast
Ketanol(PVA)
Sizecare oc
Sonycryl
Solact SFR
80
21
4.0
90
24
4.2
80
19
44
4.0
82
20
52
5.4
70
19
44
4.6 50
Antistatic 0.5 in PC only
Water (in inch)
Water (in ltrs)
36
665
36
665
36
665
36
665
36
665
36
650
 Cooking is done at a temperature around 120-130 C.
 Storage Temperature- 85-90 C
 Steam Pressure - 4.2 Kg/cm2
.
 Drying Cylinder temp – 140 C.
 Pre Drying zone temp- 80-100 C
 Size box Temp - 95 C
 No temperature in Pre-Mixer
 Cooker Capacity 900-950l.

33
THE PASSAGE OF YARN -
Warper’s beam  guide roll  feed roll  drive roll  size box  drying
cylinders  RH sensors  wax application  lease rods  comb  guide
roller (nip roller 1)  driver roller  nip roller  weaver’s beam.
Size box (double dip double nip) Emersion roll  squeeze roll and size roll 
emersion roll  Squeeze roll and size roll.
SIZING MACHINES
There are 3 sizing machines in the preparatory department of Auro Weaving.
o 2 x Sucker Muller Hacoba sizing M/c (two)
o 1 x Benninger Zell sizing M/c (one)
Technical SPECIFICATIONS OF EACH MACHINE
Specifications Sizing m/c no.1
Sucker Muller
Hacoba ( SD-C)
Sizing m/c no.2
(Sucker Muller
Hacoba (SD-C)
Sizing m/c no.3
Benninger
Make Sucker Muller
Hacoba
Sucker Muller
Hacoba
Benninger
Model WE 10 PC WE 10 PC Benninger Zell
Installation 1999-2000 1999-2000 1997-1998
Creel Capacity 20 beams 20 beams 20 beams
Sow box 1 dip and 2 nip 1 dip and 2 nip 1 dip and 1 nip
Drying cylinder 14 14 12
ABOUT SUCKER MULLER HACOBA

Manufacturer = Sucker Muller Hacoba SD-C
Beam capacity = 20 beams
Dip Nip- 1DIP & 2NIP
Machine speed: Maximum speed is 140 m/min. OBSERVED ( 60-70
m/min) depending on the count of the yarn.
Drying cylinders = 14 (4-4-6)
Size boxes = 2
Squeeze rolls = 2 in each size box
Feed rolls = 2
Drying cylinder temperature
In zone 1 (near sow box) = 1350
C for cotton
1250
C for P/C Blends
In zone 2 = 850
C
Size box temperature: 85-900
C
Waxing temperature: 35-500
C
Waxing roller rpm: 750
Moisture regain: 7.5% for cotton
4% for P/C blends
Shore hardness of immersion roller: 75 + coats
 Negative Let off (i.e. let off due to warp tension).
 Better pick up and uniform size application. Also better penetration of size.
 Wax is applied to bind protruding fibres thereby reducing hairiness.

35
 Up and down movement of comb to avoid any damage to reed by friction.
 Mirror above comb for checking the clustering of yarn at comb.
 Fans above the leasing section for complete drying.
 Brakes (using chain) on the creel for sudden stop of beam as the machine
stops (on both sides for sectional).
 Movable clamp for sectional beams so that beam of any length can be
accommodated.
 Symmetric leasing is done so that there is uniform tension in each layer.
 Press rollers are used to apply pressure on beam. They are invisible as they
are behind the beam.
 Stretch is controlled by adjusting the tension values in each zone.
 Feed Tension = Total Ends /(Count x 1.693) x 1.15
 Let off tension =Feed Tension x 3
 Dry-split zone Tension : =Feed Tension x 12
 Winding tension : =Feed tension x 16
 Press Tension =Wdg Tension + 70~100 N
Technical parameters - Benninger zell sizing machine
 Made = 1997

 Capacity = 20 beams
 Size boxes = 2
 Squeeze rolls = 1 in each size box
 Size rolls = 1 in each size box
 Emerson roll = 1 in each size box
 Operative running speed = 60 – 70 mpm
 Drying cylinders = 4+4+4=12
 Cylinder temperature for zone 1 =1350
C
zone 2 = 1150
C
Zone 1- Creel (H type Double Decker) :-
At the beginning of the operation of sizing a set of back beams prepared on warping
M/c containing predetermined number of ends to be sized, is placed on H-Creel stand made up
of cast iron framework.
Advantages: -
1) Saving in space required.
2) Detection of lapper is easy.
.
Braking system on creel side
Pneumatically Activated Braking Devices are present.

37
Zone 2- Drag roller -
A drag roller with two carrier rollers is provided at a position between the creel and the
size box.
Zone 3- Size box-
The size box, also known as saw box is the most important part of a sizing machine,
because most of the desired properties of the sized warp can be effectively controlled during
the passage of warp through the size box.
Definition – It indicates the total amount of size taken-up by the warp expressed as a
percentage of over dry weight of the grey yarn over which it is applied.
The normal size pick up is determined in the context of
- Yarn quality
- Cloth construction
- Weight to be added to the cloth
- Type of weaving machine & weaving condition.
Uneven yarns, behaviour sorts and yarn to be woven on automatic looms requires
comparatively higher size pick up

Waxing Device -
Lubrizol chemical used for waxing.
Wax roller is continuously rotates to apply wax on the yarn surface.
For sizer:
Step 1.At starting shift and take charge related to running program.
o 2.check parameters of running set on machine according to data block.
o 3.check warping beam number before loading new set.
o 4.for set forward only forward according to given standards and write down in
waste check report.
o 5.feed given parameters in machine after loading new set.
o 6.plastic should be there in beam beral when we start new beam.

39
o 7.to maintain quality of size beam it is necessary to inspect every thing on
running machine.when there is lapper then cut it carefully and write down in
check report.
o 8.put lease in creel before 50 meter to beam 's length and check migration by
releasing in dry spliting.and write down in check report.
o 9.place sandwich tape when reached total beam length.
o 10.after cutting a another tape and write down article no.,length and beam
number.
o 11.make beam tag in which article number,length,,beam number and your
signature is necessary.
o 12.inform shift officer if there is any problem.
o 13.follow quality instructions.
o 14.take shift officer 's advise on feedback from loomshed.
o 15.stop madhi's valve before 1000 meter in fine count and before 500 meter in.
Coarse count.
Lapper:
Sometimes when yarn break then it revolves only there on roll and don't move forward so create
problems.
Working instructions for back sizer:
1.present before starting of shift and take charge related to set.
2.check cleaning and maintenance at the time of taking charge.
3.take next set's program on Machine .

4.warp sheet should be cut before size box when set get finished.
5.take out remaining yarn on. Warping beam.
6.waste should be kept near size box after weighing.
7.remove break band 's of all beams.
8.empty beams should be take one by one and arrange in line at right place.
9.befor starting check break band,beam adaptors bearing and shafts.
10.put sets back beams with the help of hoist.
11.take care at the time of loading back beam it should not touch machine frame.
12.take two beams warp sheet and take it to size box.
13.attach break bands with all beams.
14.joint new beam's warpsheet with last beam's warpsheet with minimum 10 to 12. Knotts.
15.weight creel waste and told to sizer.
16.tape all beams so all warp come forward equally.
17.confirm flange 's surface with the help of file.
18.with the help of sizer put lease cord and lease rod.
19.before running on beam check cleaning of the beam.
20.measure reed space according of beam.
21.control machine at the absence of sizer but take care about quality.
Initial creel waste:
Waste which is due to taking warp sheet equal when we start new set .
Process change to reduce:
we take warping beam's sheet straight from first beam so sheet comes parallel from first
beam and all beam's sheet can be parallel in just 3 meter.
Forwarding waste:
waste at the time of taping and leasing.
process change to reduce:
1.after knotting start taping from last beam in warping beams.

41
2.use at least 8 to 10 knots for set forwarding so sheets can be parallel easily and early.
3.distance between tapes should be less than 1 feet on warping beams so all beams tape
comes in 1meter.
4.lease cord should be inserted in last beams when first beam's tape comes in creel's
centre position.
5.distance between tape and lease cord should be not more than 3 meter and not less than
3 meter(for leasing).
6.when sized yarn comes then immediately take it in beam.
Set finish waste :-
remaining yarn sheet's waste on cylinder when set finish.
1.immersion roller should be lifted after taking yarn to size box 's feed roll which beam
finished very first.
2.squeeze roll should be set by taking sizing paste immediately when lease cord comes
out from size box.
3.when lease cord comes to final drying cylinder then last set's weavers beam should be
tape and cut.
. before taking in weakly cleaning,weavers beam should be cut after tightened near size box.
Creel waste:-
waste yarns sheet remaining on creel when set finish.
1.to ensure that all warping 's beam exhausted at same time.both sheets stretch should be
check continuously on running m/c.
2.to reduce beam to beam stretch variation set should be loaded after checking warpers
beam 's condition,beam bearing condition and break segment condition.
Type of waste Standard value
 Initial creel waste (A) ➡ 3meters

 Forwarding waste (B)➡ 20meters
 Set finish waste (C )➡ 11meters
 Creel waste (D) ➡ 6meters
Observed Differences -between Sucker Muller vs
Benninger sizing machines
Sucker – Muller Hacoba Benninger
 Total 14 cylinder drying  Total 12 cylinder drying
 6 cylinders in final dryer  4 cylinders in final dryer
 1 Dip 2 Nip  1 Dip 1 Nip
AUTO DRAWING-IN
Machine: - Staubli Delta 110, Switzerland
Max. Speed: - 140 ends/min (optimized speed – 120ends/min)
Heald wires: - simplex and duplex

43
Drop wires: - 0.2mm & 0.4 mm
Dressing time: - 10min
*Maximum beams drawn per shift – 4.
Passage of material-
NEEDLE:- There are 2 types of needles N type & K type. They are used for
separation of yarn from the sheet.
Count Needle no.
80 8
70 8
60 10
50 12
40 14
30 16
25 16
20 18
16 20
14 21 or 25
10 28
Temperature & Ambient conditions of Auto-Drawing Section-
The unit is fitted with centralized Air Conditioning System maintaining an ambient
temperature of around 23 degree C.
Weavers
Beam
Drop
Wire
Heald-
Eye
Profile
Reed

The Closed type of drop-pins are being used. As soon as the warp breakage
occurs then it touches the bracket machine stops.
Technical Dimensions of Droppins
 Length of droppins: 6.5 cm
 Width of droppins: 1.1 cm
 Thickness of droppins: 0.2mm type & 0.4mm type
 0.2 mm droppins are used for processing 25 and above count- i.e finer
count
 0.4 mm droppins are used for processing 25 and below count- i.e coarser
count
Technical Dimensions of Heald Wires Used :
o Types of Heald wires are used:
o 6.6 mm X 1.8 mm: Simplex
o 6.4 mm X 1.5 mm: Duplex
o 5.5 mm X 1.2 mm: Duplex
o 5.5 mm X 1.2 mm Steel Heddle
o 5.5 mm X 1.2 mm Stander
o 5.5 mm X 1.2mm OPTFill
o 5.5 mm X 1.2 mm Wider
o Length of heald wire= around 331 to 380 mm

45
Duplex - used for fine count for producing high sett fabric. Above 25 count
Simplex - used for coarse count. Below 25 count.
HEALD FRAME DRC CONNECTIONS TYPES :
PICA Delta/omni/omni+ DRC- type 3 Connector
Tsudakoma zax DRC 1/10 type Connector
Tsudakoma zax-e DRC 10 type
Toyota Drc-10 type
Different Type of heald frames used in looms
Loom Name Frame Used
Tsudakoma 205i Nankai CR2S
Tsudokama 209i Nankai CR2S
ZAX NANKAI CR2S
Zax-e Nankai CR 2S or New Light
Delta X Steel Heddle or Alu Power
Omni Steel Heddle
Omni + Verbrugge APF14A or Hybrid Power 151
Totota JAT 810 eshed Newlight
Totota Jat 710 Groz Beckert or Newlight

Observed Defects in Auto Drawing In process-
Commonly occurring defects in drawing-in process
Extra ends/ Double Ends
o Some warp threads are generally cast out during drawing-in
process to fill for
o long missing ends on weavers beam.
 Lappers
o If the lappers are cut and mended after the completion of weavers
beam after
 sizing, extra ends at drawing-in or warp tying are not
required. If due to any
 reason, the lappers are removed no sooner these are
founded, the same ends
 should not be selected for withdrawing or tying up.
 Cross ends
The formation of cross ends during fabric manufacturing can be minimized
by presenting the warp ends for drawing-in or warp tying properly ,
parallel
to each other in their respective positions as in the beam. Proper
combing and
dressing of warp ends can minimize this problem upto some extent.

47
Some Common Parts of Air-Jet Looms
1. Main Nozzle
2. Pre-winder
3. WF Sensor
Training Period- Under – Mr. Ajay Jain & Mr B. Prusty
Objective:
 The main objective of the Loom
shed is to weave the two sets of
yarn – Warp & Weft into fabric.
 Interlacement of two mutually
perpendicular yarns forms the
fabric
Sections
  
o Shed 1
TSK 205i
TSK 209i
Zax
o Shed 2
Picannol Omni
Omni +
DeltaX
o Shed 3 &3A
o Toyota 710
190cm
o Toyota 710 230
cm
o Toyota Eshed
o Zax
o ZAX-E
11th
july to 1st
Aug

4. Stop Pin
5. Leno Selvedge
6. Take up roller
7. Weft Package
8. Air filter
9. Jetting (to inject air )
10.Guide for waste selvedge
11.Catch yarn guide
12.Catch cord Yarn
13.Cutter for leno selvedge/waste selvedge
14.Profile reed
ManPower In loom shed-
o Weavers
o TR weavers
o ChargeMan
o Jobber
o Knotter
o Beam Gaiter
o Reliever
o Weft Feeder
o TR weft feeder
o Roll doffer
o TR Doffer
o Loom Cleaner

49
-:Basic Motions of Air-Jet Looms:-
A) SHEDDING: It is the process of division of warp layers in two layer (with the help of
heald shaft which move up and down according to the design to be formed). The shape
of cams decides the movement of heald frames according to the lifting plan.
B) PICKING: The picking means the insertion of weft into the warp shed. Airjet takes the
weft from auxiliary nozzle then to main nozzle, profiled reed and after then the sub
nozzle further carry the weft by intermediate jetting one after another till it is sensed
by H1 and H2 feeler.
C) BEAT-UP: Beat-up is the process of transferring the inserted pick to the fell of the
cloth. Beat-up is done by the reed which pushes the inserted pick to the fell of cloth.
D) LET-OFF: In Let-off the ends are unwound from the weavers beam. There is positive
let-off direct drive from separate motor. The back-rest controls the tension variation
during the let-off. There is a load cell that feels the tension and controls the let-off.
E) TAKE-UP: In Take-up motion the fabric formed is wound on the cloth roller. Take-up
roller gets the drive from the main shaft through the gears and pick wheel. Pick wheel
decides the pick density (PPI).
F) EASING MOTION: To control the tension variation in the warp sheet equipped with
positive help of a lever connected to it which positively driven by an eccentric stud.
G) WARP STOP MOTION: There is electronically controlled warp stop motion. Warp
threads pass through droppers which fall down completing the electronic circuits and
sending the signal to the machine to stop.
H) Weft Stop Motion - By Weft feelers H1 & H2 .

 Shedding Motion By Cams-
Loom Staubli Cam Series Year
OMNI 1600 YR 1997
DELTA X 1610 YR 1998
OMNI+ 1661 YR 2003
ZAX-E 1661 YR 2003
ZAX 1620B YR 2000
TOYOTA 190CM/ WIDER 1781A YR 2006
 Identifying the Article code of
fabric running on looms
1st
&2nd
Key 3rd
Key 4th
key 5th
key 6th
key
PLANT SPINNING
TECHNOLOGY
WARP
WEFT SPINNING
TECH
SHADE/END USE SPECIALITIES
BA = Baddi M=Combed
Compact
M=Combed
Compact
B= White
(contaminant
free)
O=100%organic
BU= Budhni D=Carded
compact
D=Carded
compact
C=CCY X=Organic
Exchange
K= carded K= carded N=Normal F= Fair Trade

51
O= open end O= open end O=Yarn Dyed G=Fair Trade
organic
C=combed C=combed T=Tinted Yarn H=Fair trade org.
exc
R=siro yarn R=siro yarn N= liquid
ammonia finish
E=Elitwist E=Elitwist P=Purchase
From outside
Looms Present in Unit I-
Type of
loom
No. Of
looms
Speed Heald
capacity
Loom
width
Shedding
Tsudakoma
Zax
16 looms 750-800
rpm
6 190cm Positive
Tsudakoma
209i
8 looms 600-650
rpm
4 190cm Negative
Tsudakoma
205i
48 looms 600-650
rpm
4 190cm Negative
Total looms-72
o Shed 1 consistes of the oldest Airjet Weaving machines from Tsudakoma
Japan .

TSK Zax
Distinguishable Features:-
o Positive shedding by STAUBLI cam.
o Temple ring is mounted above the fabric woven.
o Max. 6 frames can run at a time.
o Mechanical type cutter for dummy selvedge.
o Seven Wheel takeup Mechanism
o Has STRETCH Nozzle
o Equiped with Electronic Let-off.
o Easing Motion present in Whip Roll.
o Main motor data-
 Power consumption 3.7kw
 Three phase induction motor
 RPM of Driving motor 1390
Technical Prameters of ZAX looms-
Parameters TSK-ZAX
Reed Space usable 62 “ to 75 “
Wevable Range Complex weaves – Oxford/ Broken Twill/ S & Z Twills , Satin
Weft Range Lyc, Spx, CC, K
Driving 3phase 440V RPM 1410 4 pole 3.7 kw
Weft Insertion Systemn 2main nozzle+ 2 tandum+ 31 sub nozzles
Shedding Positive CAM by STAUBLI
Let off Electronic
Weft Supply Stand Mg Crl
Accumulartor FDP Sensor with GAIN adjustor

53
Catch Cord 8
Cutter Mechanical
Cam Lubrication Centrallized lubrication system
Stop Motions F1 F2 Feeler + Dropper + FDP sensor
Running Loom Speed 750-790 rpm
Baloon Breaker Yes
Temples Above cloth
Stretch Nozzle YES
Tsudakoma 209i -
Shedding motion is negative. Spring & ropes are used.
 No Tandum Nozzles.
 The temple ring is mounted below the woven fabric
 Max 4 frames are used although Provision for 6 heald frames , due to
restrictio of loom speed
 Both the cutters are of mechanical type.
 The motion to the pick cutter is given from the main shaft (bottom shaft)
 The catch cord assembly is having circular guides.
 Mechanical let-off motion is there in 209i.
 Main motor data-

In this loom the vibration of back rest is adjusted by attaching it to two sensors
on both sides so as to adjust the tension after unrolling of beam.
Parameters TSK- 209i
Wevable Range Simple weaves – Plain ,/ S & Z Twills
Weft Range CC, K
Weft Insertion Systemn 2main nozzle+24 sub nozzles
Shedding Negative Shedding
Let off Mechanical
Accumulartor 2p 0.15 kw 3500rpm , NO gain adjuster
Catch Cord 8
Cutter Mechanical
Cam Lubrication Manual
Stop Motions F1 F2 Feeler + Dropper
Baloon Breaker No
Temples Below cloth
STRETCH NOZZLE NO

55
Tsudakoma 205i 48 looms
No Tandum nozzles.
 Shedding motion is negative. Spring & ropes are used.
 No Tandum Nozzles.
 The temple ring is mounted below the woven fabric
 Max 4 frames are used although Provision for 6 heald frames , due to restrictio of loom
speed
 Both the cutters are of mechanical type.
 The catch cord assembly is having circular guides.
 Mechanical let-off motion is there in 209i.
Parameters TSK- 205i
Reed Space usable 63 “ to 65“
Wevable Range Simple weaves – Plain ,/ S & Z Twills
Weft Range CC, K
Weft Insertion Systemn 2main nozzle+24 sub nozzles
Shedding Negative Shedding
Let off Mechanical
Accumulartor 2p 0.15 kw 3500rpm , NO gain adjuster
Catch Cord 8
Cutter Mechanical
Cam Lubrication Manual
Stop Motions F1 F2 Feeler + Dropper

Baloon Breaker No
Temples Below cloth
Stretch Nozzle NO
Shed 2 consists of 88 Picannol looms from Belgium,
The various models of looms are described below-
Type of
loom
No.of looms Speed Heald
capacity
Loom width
Picanol Delta X 72looms 725rpm-750
rpm
6 190cm
Picanol omni 4looms 725rpm-
750rpm
6 190cm
Picanol omni
plus
12looms 850rpm-900
rpm
7 190cm

57
Total looms=88
Picanol Delta-X
o BLF backrest type
o Universal backrest type
Distinguishable Features-
 Shedding is positive cam shedding by STAUBLI
 Picking is done by means of compressed air
 Cutters-
 The weft cutter used is of electronic type
 The selvedge cutter used is of mechanical type
 The temple ring is mounted above the ring
 Mechanical take-up is there
 At max. 6 heald frames can be used
 In this a separate leno assembly is there for selvedge formation.
There is a leno cam which moves on the movement of machine and
it gives a reciprocating motion to the leno assembly
 In this two back-rests are used and the vibrations of one back-rest
are adjusted by the spring i.e. the easing motion is done with the
help of spring. The vibration of other back-rest is adjusted by giving
it rotary motion

 Let-off is of electronic type.
Picanol Omni
 Positive cam shedding is there – By Staubli
 Picking is done by means of compressed air.
 Two cutters are used and both the cutters are of electronic type.
 Temple ring is mounted above the cloth
 Mechanical take-up is used
 Electronic let-off is there
 At max. 7 heald frames can be used
 Take-up only two rollers are used as in case of DELTA-X.
 Two back rests are being used and easing motion is same as in case of Delta-X
Picanol Omni +
 Shedding is Positive cam shedding
 Picking is done by means of compressed air
 The temple ring is mounted above the woven fabric
 Two electronic type of cutter are used. for cutting the weft and other is used for dummy
selvedge cutter
 For taking the dummy selvedge out into the waste box a single roller is used on which the
selvedge is wrapped and by continuously rotating motion the selvedge is taken out
 At max 6 heald frames can be used at a time
 Electronic let-off is there
 Take-up is mechanical.

59
UNIT 3
 Tsudakoma ZAX: 4
 Toyota JAT 710 (190cm): 12
 Toyota JAT 710 wider (230cm): 24
 Toyota JAT 810 :8
Total no of looms: 48
No of looms Model Speed Width No of frames
4 Tsudakoma ZAX 750 rpm 190 cm 6
12 Toyota JAT 710(HS) 950 rpm 190 cm 7
24 Toyota JAT 710 750-800 rpm 230 cm 7
8 Toyota JAT 810 650-700rpm 230 cm E shed
TOYOTA (JAT 710):
i. Temple ring is mounted above the cloth formed

ii. Two cutters are used and both are of mechanical type
iii. For leno assembly separate servo motors are attached with each of them
iv. The dummy selvedge waste is collected with the help of two rubber coated
roller, one having large diameter and other having small one.
v. Positive cam shedding is there.
vi. Picking is done by means of compressed airjet.
vii. Two back rests are used and the easing motion is done by converting the
vibration into the rotating motion.
viii. Electronic let-off is there.
ix. Take-up is also electronic.
TOYOTA (JAT 710) wider:
Similar to Jat 710 190cm but have the following distinction
 Is of Wider type having a reed space of 230 cm.
 Has a comparatively lower rpm of about 750rpm.
TOYOTA (JAT 810- Eshed):
 Picking Mechanism-2 main + 2 Tandem +35 Nozzles
 Weft Insertion Motion-
 Creel -> Weft accumulator ->Tandom nozzles -> Main nozzle ->
Weft cutter-> Relay nozzles -> Selvedge cutter -> Stretch blow
-> Weft feeler -> Stretch
 Let- off- Electronic

61
 Take up- Electronic
 Shedding----
o E-Shedding:
o Electrical shedding mechanism.
• Every heald shaft is provided a motor so we can control
on movement of the individual heald shaft.
• Max 16 heald shafts can be controlled
• As per design, we can feed data for every motor on
microprocessor
 Leno- Planetary Leno - 2 polyester yarn on both LS & RS,
 Warp Stop Motion-
o Electrical contact type. Drop pins are used.
o 6 rows of drop pins.
 Creel-Magazining Creel as weft supply
 Back rest: Two back rests , one as whip roll.
Unit 3A:-
Tsudakoma ZAX: 16
Tsudakoma ZAX-e: 48
Total no of looms: 64
No of looms Model Speed Width No of frames
16 Tsudakoma ZAX 750 rpm 190 cm Upto 6
48 Tsudakoma ZAX-e 800 rpm 190 cm Upto 6

TSK Zax
 Positive shedding by STAUBLI cam.
 Temple ring is mounted above the fabric woven.
 Max. 6 frames can run at a time.
 Mechanical type cutter for dummy selvedge.
 Seven Wheel takeup Mechanism
 Has STRETCH Nozzle
 Equiped with Electronic Let-off.
 Easing Motion present in Whip Roll.
Technical Prameters of ZAX looms-
Parameters TSK-ZAX
Wevable Range Complex weaves – Oxford/ Broken Twill/ S & Z Twills , Satin
Let off Electronic
Catch Cord 8
Cutter Mechanical

63
Baloon Breaker Yes
Temples Above cloth
Stretch Nozzle YES
TSUDAKOMA (ZAX-e):
a) Take-up is of electronic type
b) Temple ring is mounted above the cloth
c) Two cutters are used and both are of mechanical type
d) Electronic let-off is also there
e) Picking is done by means of compressed air
f) Creel capacity is 2 here
g) Positive cam shedding is there
h) At the take-up the movement of fabric is as shown below:
i) At the let-off only one back rest is used and the easing motion is same as in ZAX
j) The catch cord assembly is as shown in the figure:
Parameters TSK-ZAX-e
Wevable Range Complex weaves – Oxford/ Broken Twill/ S & Z Twills
, Satin
Let off Electronic ELO

Catch Cord 8
Cutter Mechanical
Baloon Breaker Yes
Temples Above cloth
Stretch Nozzle YES

65
-STUDIES ON BREAKAGE ANALYSIS ON LOOM-
Warp breakage:
 Due to the entanglement of two or three warp yarn due to fly:
 Due to cross end:
 Due to sticky ends:
 Normal breakage:
 Yarn is entangled in beam after breakage:
 Yarn surface is not even and it breaks due to rubbing with the drop pins:
 Yarn is very stiff in nature due to improper sizing:
 Due to consumption of leno bobbin:
Weft breakage:
 Insufficient winding at the pre-winder:
 The weft yarn is not sensed by the feeler H1:
 The weft yarn is not sensed by the feeler H2:
 Weft package is exhausted:
 No winding at the pre-winder:
 Picks are entangled with the shed:
 Deviation of pick from its path:

_______________________________________________________________________
Classification Of Faults
MAJOR:
 Broken Pick
 Double Pick
 Thick Place
 Starting Mark
 Slubby Weft
 Oily Weft
 Uneven Weft
 Weft Distortion
 Broken Pick
Training Period- Under – Mr. Sanjeev Sharma2nd
Aug to 12th
Aug
Objective:
 The basic function of inspection department is to determine
the quality of fabric according to 4 -point system

67
MINOR:
 Warp Slub
 Stain
 Contaminant
 Mendable Impression
 Weft Slub
Continuous faults:
 Stitches
 Double End
 Wrong Denting
 Cross End
 Reed Mark
 Weft Streak
 Fine End
 Temple Cut

Different types of Machines in Folding Department
MACHINE
 Inspection m/c x 9
 Mending table x 2
 Folding m/c x 2
 Rolling m/c x 2
 Bale pressing m/c x 1
MACHINEs IN FOLDING
a. Inspection machines- there are total 9 inspection machines for the fabric
inspection,
Manufacture is Almac. The speed of the inspection is kept 20-25 mpm.
b. Folding or flatting machines- There are 2 folding machines used for
forming the bale of the fabric.
c. Bale pressing machine- There are 1 bale pressing machine for pressing
the bale.
e. Mending table- 2x There mending tables for reworking i.e. for mending
the damages if possible.
About Four (4) point fabric grading system:
4 point inspection system is an international accepted rating system –
Where

69
i. No more than Four penalty points shall be assigned for any single defect
ii. No more than four penalty points shall be assigned to one linear meter regardless of
the number of defects within that one meter
Defects in both warp & weft Direction shall be assigned points using the following criteria---
Fault length (in inches) Point
1-3 1
4-6 2
7-9 3
>9 4
 Any defect repeating itself in a continuous manner shall constitute a
running defect if major warp-wise exceeds 1 meter in length , than excess
part over 1 meter shall be divided into another same defect.
 Any running fabric shall be assigned four penalty points for each meter in
which the defect occours.
 Fabric shouldn’t have a full width defect in the first and last three meter
 Continuous defects allowed shouldn’t be more than 1/25th
of the total
fabric length
 Partial defects like hole tear float exceeding 5 mts in length shall be cut
 A full width defect over six inches in lenth shall be cut.

FABRIC GRADING:
In 100 mtrs fabric four major faults and minor faults so that the total points should not exceed
38 points is known as FRESH Fabric, (Also fabric having some more points but passable
(internally called as B grade). Final order to the customers is made in the form of fresh only. So
the passable fabric is mended to get fresh fabric. The fabric which is not mendable is rejected.)
FOLDING:
The basic function of folding is to pack the material as per the customer requirement either on
roll or in bale form in required length.
Three type of packing is done for different purposes:
1) Export purpose
2) Domestic
Bale/ Roll packing material carries following information:
a) Sort no
b) Bale no
c) Net weight
d) Gross weight
e) No of pieces of bales
f) Meters
ROLLING M/C
Two rolling M/c are there for finally rolling the inspected fabric into Fabric Rolls for final
transportation.
Speed- 100meters of fabric /min

71
BALE PRESSING MACHINE
For pressing the bales of fabric into compressed form.
MENDABLE DAMAGES
The damages which could be reworked include pick, snarling, ball
formation and double ends.
PACKING
BLUE LDPE: For Lycra fabric
WHITE LDPE- For 100% cotton fabric

Abhishek sarkar Vardhman textiles report - august 2016 internee

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