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Production of Textiles
IPE 4109
Nurunnabi
Lecturer
National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
Basics of
Fabric Manufacturing
Nurunnabi
National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
Reference Books:
Reference Book:
Fabric Manufacturing=Weaving+Knitting+Nonwoven
Woven Fabric Knit Fabric
Fabric Manufacturing=Weaving+Knitting+Nonwoven+Braiding
a)Woven
b)Knitting
c)Nonwoven
Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many
threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more
threads at right angles to one another.
Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn a series of interlocking
loops, each row of such loop hanging by the one immediately preceding it. The basic element of knit fabric
structure is the loop intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both side and above and bellows it.
Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fiber or
filaments (and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally, or chemically. They are flat, porous sheets that
are made directly from separate fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film.
Braiding, in textiles, machine or hand method of interlacing three or more yarns or bias-cut cloth strips in such
a way that they cross one another and are laid together in diagonal formation, forming a narrow strip of flat or
tubular fabric.
Shuttle Loom/Conventional Loom
Shuttle less loom/Modern loom
1.Projectile 3.Airjet
2.Rapier 4. Water jet
S/J circular knitting machine D/J circular knitting machine
Automatic flatbed knitting machine
Manual flatbed knitting machine
Warp Knitting machine
Braiding Machine
Nonwoven machine
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Flow chart of fabric manufacturing technology:
Yarn from spinning department
Cone Winding
• Winding is a process of transferring
yarns from ring bobbins, hanks, cones
etc into a convenient form of packages
containing considerably long length of
yarn.
• The main purpose of winding or
packaging is to form a single yarn
package suitable for the next operation.
Creeling
Creel
Creeling
Warping
Warping is aimed at preparing the weaver’s
beam to be set up on the weaving machine.
Warping carries out following operations :
 Creation, out of a limited number of warp
threads (creel load), of a warp composed of
any number of threads with the desired
length.
 Arrangement of above-mentioned threads
according to the desired sequence.
The industrial warping process can be
carried out according to two different
technologies:
• Sectional warping (conical drum or indirect
warping).
• Beam warping or direct warping
(preparatory beam warping).
Sectional warping
• Sectional warping is used for
short runs, especially for fancy
patterned fabrics.
Sectional warping
• In this case, sections of the warp which
may contain up to 1,000 ends are first
wound onto a drum tapered with a
given cone angle.
•So cross wound sections are combined
on the drum, and thus each layer of
warp contains the same number of
ends on the drum.
Sectional warping
Then the warp threads
altogether are transferred
onto a weaver’s beam by
unwinding the drum.
Direct/ High speed/ Beam warping
• Beam warping is used for long runs of
grey fabrics.
• As an intermediate stage warper’s
beams which may contain up to 1,000
ends are produced.
• Then the threads of 6-12 warper’s
beam are combined at the slashing
(sizing) stage and wound onto a
weaver’s beam (loom beam).
Direct warping
Sizing
• Sizing is the application of
adhesive coating in the
warp threads before
weaving.
• The warp yarns can
withstand the complex
stresses to which they are
subjected in the weaving
machine.
Sizing
• The size is usually a starch paste
containing softening and other
ingredients.
• Starch sizes are usually not
satisfactory for synthetic fiber threads
and have to be replaced by special sizes
(often containing synthetic polymers)
which will adhere better to the threads.
Loom preparation
Before the weaver’s beam is mounted on the loom, each end is
threaded through a heald eye and the reed; it also supports a drop
wire.
• To pass the warp threads
through the hole of the
drop wire is known as
pinning.
• If a single warp breaks
drop wire will drop. As a
result Machine will stop
instantly to avoid end
missing.
Pinning and drawing
Drafting
• Drafting is known as the selection
of heald frames or harnesses for
individual warp threads according
to the design.
• Drawing in: To pull the warp
threads through the heald eye of
the heald wire. •
Healds and frame
Threading of heddles
•
Denting
• What is Reed?
The reed is a comb-like structure consisting of
regularly spaced wires. The word dent is
commonly used to describe the space between
two reed wires.
• Denting: Denting means drawing the warp
thread through the dent as required by reed
plan and this determines more accurately the
width of the fabric and the ends per cm.
Drawing threads through dent with hook
Tying-in
• Tying-in is used when a fabric is being mass
produced.
• The tail end of the warp from the exhausted
weaver’s beam is tied to the beginning of the
new warp.
• Therefore, if every end on the new beam is tied
to its corresponding end on the old beam, the
drawing-in process can be omitted.
• Following the tying-in process, all knots are
pulled through the drop wires, heddles and the
reed. The loom is now ready for operation.
•
Weaving
Fabric inspection
Folding
Baling
Delivery
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Objects of winding:
1. To improve the quality of yarn.
2. To get a suitable package.
3. To get a quality fabric.
4. To empty spinners bobbin so that it can be used again.
5. To clean the yarn.
6. To store the yarn.
7. To improve the efficiency of yarn for the next process.
Winding
Winding:
This is the process of transfer yarns from ring, bobbin, hanks etc. into a convenient
form of package containing considerably long length of yarn. This simple transfer
of yarn from one package (bobbin) to another package (cone, spool, pirn) is called
winding.
Winding
Yarn Package
Pirn
cop
Spool
Warp Beam
Bobbin
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 Pirn Winding ………
 Cop Winding Machine
 spool Winding Machine
 Cone Winding Machine
 Cheese Winding Machine
 Warp Winding Machine
 Flange Bobbin Winding Machine
 Precision Winding Machine
 Non Precision Winding Machine
 Direct Drive
 Indirect Drive
A. According to the package
B. According to Winding
C. According to Drive
The requirement of winding may be summarized as follows-
* The fault level in the yarn must be removed to an acceptable
level.
* The yarn must not damaged in any way in the winding process.
* The yarn must be wound in such a way as to permit unwinding
in the following process with a minimum of difficult at the
requirement speed.
* The package size, shape, & build must be the most
technologically suitable for the particular end use.
* The package size should be controlled to meet the particular
economic requirement.
* The package hardness should be standard.
 Breakage of yarn
 Soft or Hard package
 Not get shaped properly
 Twist variation
 Ribonzon
 Dirty package
 Oil or graase package
 Hairiness package
 Poor unwiring
 Slack Knot
Warping:
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone or cheese) on to a
common package (warp beam) is called warping.
Should meet the following requirement:
1. The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during
all the time of withdrawal from supply packages, otherwise the rate of
breakage will be increased & the structure of the ready cloth will be
impaired.
2. Warping should not impair the physical & mechanical properties of yarn. The
tension should moderate to allow the yarn to completely retain its elastic
properties & strength. The yarn should not be subjected to sharp abrasive
action.
3. The surface of warping package must be cylindrical. Therefore, the spreading
of yarn (density) throughout the whole width of warping must be as uniform
as possible.
4. A pre determined length of warping should be observed.
5. The production rate of warping should be as high as possible.
REQUIREMENT OF WARPING
1. The yarns in the sheet should be in uniform spacing.
2. The yarns in the sheet should be in uniform tension.
3. The yarns in the sheet should be of a predetermined length.
4. The sheet should be containing a predetermined number of ends.
5. There should be no broken ends in the beam.
REQUIREMENT OF WARPING
Types of warping:
1. Beam warping – direct warping.
2. Patterns band or drum warping – Sectioned warping,(Indirect warping)
3. Ball warping
WARPING:
Beam Warping
A weavers beam may have up to 10,000 ends and if this were to be produced
directly it would be necessary to have up to 10,000 creel packages. Such an
arrangement would be very difficult to accommodate and manage
;consequently it is normal practice to produce wrappers beams which may
contain up to about 1000 ends and these are combined at the slashing stage.
Because of the difficulties involved in combining the ends ,patterned warped
beams are seldom produced on the direct system and any pattern that is
produced is achieved by combining beams of various colors at the later stage
of slashing.
This imposes limitations which can only overcome by changing to pattern
weaving.
Sectional Warping Process
In sectional warping sections are made sequentially and because of this the
process is rather slow ;it is the practice therefore to produce no more than is
required to fill a single weavers beam. The result is that the sectional warping
is used mainly for short runs or for complex color patterns.
Ball Warping
The main object of ball warping is to prepare log for the rope dyeing machine. Here
magazine type of creels is used for the creeling of yarns in the form of cheese
Beam Warping
Sectional Warping
In this process, the threads are being directly
winding on a beam while unwinding the yarn
from creel
High speeded warping
DIRECT I HI-SPEED WARPING MACHINE
DIRECT I HI-SPEED WARPING MACHINE
COMPONENTS OF WARPING MACHINE
Creel:
FUNCTION OF COMPONENTS OF CREEL
Function of components of creel:
1. Cone or cheese spindle for high speed warping.
2. Thread guide: To pass through the yarn in the reqd way.
3. Tensioner: To keep the yarn always in a uniform tension.
4. Yarn cleaner: To remove various faults of yarn like slubs, neps etc.
5. Suction fan or blower: To remove the dirt & dust from the yarn.
6. Breakage indicator: To indicate breakage in package.
7. Stop device: To stop the m/c when yarn will be broken.
High Speed Warping m/c Setting:
Use of High-Speed Warping Machine
• Producing one color fabric like gray fabric
• For producing one/single color fabric
• For the same count of yarn
• Example: Shirt , Pant , Polo Shirt etc.
Sectional Warping m/c.
•Sectional warping is a process of preparing warp beam over two
stages.
•First, yarns are wound in narrow tapes on a large drum.
•Second, the rewinding of the warp onto a beam is performed.
Features of sectional warping
• To produce fancy fabric of different colors.
• Hand weaving used in sectional warping.
• To produce weavers beam from small amount of warp yarn.
• To produce weavers beam from twisted yarn.
• To produce weavers beam from which do not required any sizing
material to be applied before weaving.
• Weavers beam can be formed immediately after.
• Production is less, so it is costly process.
• Yarn tension can not be kept uniform.
• A tapered beam or drum is used.
HEAD STOCK OF SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE:
HEAD STOCK OF SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE:
CREEL DIAGRAM
Warp off centre of the beam:
Due to not carefully placing of creel wraith and flanged beam.
Remedy: Beam and wraith placed properly.
uneven warp beam:
This effect due to
Winding of small no of ends on larger beam.
When the dents are bent or the spacing between dents is uneven.
Mixed count.
Remedy: Higher no of ends be used.
Crossed ends:
Due to
Faulty knotting after yarn breakage.
Tying of broken ends.
Loose warp.
Remedy: Knotting and tension controlled.
Faults & Remedies of Warping:
Snarl formation in the warp:
Due to
Over tension.
Improper twist.
Position of guide.
Remedy: By proper tension and twist.
Missing ends:
Due to
Faulty stop device.
Exhausted cone or bobbin.
Absence of cone or bobbin on creel.
Remedy: By correct stop device is used
Hard beam:
Due to high tension.
Remedy: Tension and pressure maintained.
Faults & Remedies of Warping:
Unequal length :
Due to faulty measuring device.
Remedy: correct measuring device.
Broken ends:
Remedy: To be joined carefully the yarn.
Warp ends round the creel peg.
Unequal length of warp.
Unequal size or weight of cone or cheese in the creel.
Lapped ends.
Piecing.
Soft end on the warping beam.
Warp ends round the creel peg(spindle) and results broke.
Faults & Remedies of Warping:
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SIZING
Size: A gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion applied
normally to warp but sometimes to weft, generally before weaving is called size.
Sizing: A method of applying a gelatinous film forming substance on warp is
sizing. This is the most important operation to attain maximum weaving
efficiency especially for blended & filament yarns. It is called the heart of
weaving.
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Object of sizing:
1. To improve the weaveability of warp yarn by making it more resistant to action of
weaving ie, absorption, friction, tension & flexing.
2. To maintain good fabric quality by reducing hairiness, weakness & by increasing
smoothness, absorbency of yarn.
3. To improve the tensile or breaking strength of cellulosic yarns.
4. To increase the elasticity.
5. To increase the weight of yarn.
6. To increase the frictional resistance.
7. To remove the projected fibres.
8. To reduce electrostatic formation for synthetic or blend yarn.
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Requirement of sizing:
1. Sized warp must be sufficiently strong, smooth & elastic.
2. The sizing process must ensure the application of the required amount of size on the
yarn or the required size regain.
3. The tensions of warp yarn at sizing must be regular & constant during all the warp
unwinding from the warping beams.
4. Yarn strength & loss in elongation should be a within admitted limits.
5. The package ie, the weavers beams produced, must be have a cylindrical shape, the
necessary winding density & yarn strength.
6. The sizing process must be efficient, economical & must ensure the production of
high quality sized warps.
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Size ingredients & their function:
1. Adhesive: Generally starch of maize, corn, rice, potato & CMC, PVA, PVC are used as
adhesive. Tamarin is used as adhesive on jute yarn. The adhesive is granule form is mixed
water & heated to form a paste which ultimately becomes viscous fluid.
Function:
a) To improve strength.
b) To improve abrasion resistance.
c) To increase extensibility.
2. Lubricant or Softener: Mineral oil, linseed oil, coconut oil, vegitable oil,tallow, japan
wax,vegitable wax are used as a lubricant.
Function:
a) To make the yarn soft & slippery.
b) To reduce stiffness.
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3. Antiseptic or Antimildew agent: Salicylic acid, Zinc chloride, phenol carboxylic
acid are used as antiseptic agent.
Function:
a) It helps to store the yarn without damage.
b) Protect yarn from bacteria or fungus formation.
4. Deliquescent or Hygroscopic Agent: Glycerin, calcium chloride, are used as
deliquescent agent.
Function:
a) Prevent brittleness of size.
b) Helps to keep standard moisture regain.
5. Weighting agent: China clay, French chalk, sodium phosphate are used as
weighting agent.
Function:
a) Increase weight of yarn.
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6. Wetting agent: Magnesium chloride, avirol, sulphanol A are used as
wetting
agent.
Function:
a) Helps to wet yarn instantly.
7. Tinting agent: Blue is used as tinting agent.
Function:
a)To increase lusture or brightness.
8. Antifoaming agent: Benzene, pyridine are used as antifoaming agent.
Function:
a)To prevent foam formation.
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Types of sizing:
1. Pure sizing: This types of sizing is done for unbleached fabric. 3-10% size
ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
2. Light sizing: This types of sizing is used for Dyeing & Printing of woven fabric. 11-
15% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
3. Medium sizing: This types of sizing is used for increase of strength & weight of
fabric. 16-40% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
4. Heavy sizing: This types of sizing is used for increase the weight twisted & lower
count yarn. Above 40% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
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Techniques of sizing:
* Slasher sizing
* Emulsion sizing
* Foam sizing
* Hot melt sizing
* Electrostatic sizing
* High pressure sizing
* Combined sizing
* Solvent sizing.
4/28/2020
Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in
Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in
Textile (BUTEX)
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Faults in sizing:
1. Sticky warp.
2. Gum spot.
3. Under slashed yarn.
4. Over slashed yarn.
5. Over dried yarn.
6. Non uniform sizing.
7. Cross or lost ends.
8. Improper boiled of yarn.
9. Incorrect warp length.
10. Dirty warp.
Dressing: The process of jute sizing is called dressing.
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Loom/Weaving Machine
Loom: Loom is machine or device which is used to produce woven fabric. It
is the central point of whole process of cloth production.
History of Loom
• Weaving process was introduced to human society
• Major developments in textile took place in England
• Woven fabrics was produced by at least two people employed on
loom
Horizontal loom
Hand loom
1. Primitive or Vertical loom.
Primitive or Vertical loom: A primitive loom is
generally by sinking the frame into the ground
and the work inside the pit by both feet. The
framework is of bamboo. This loom had been
known to be in use in 5000 to 6000 years B.C.
This loom are still used for weaving silk pieces
,silk shirting and sarees, muslim, etc.by derivative
weavers.
2. Pit loom
Pit loom: This loom is created by sunking four posters
into the ground and with an overhang sley.The thread
work inside the pit,so that the warp threads may absorb
moisture and better weaving will result.In this loom the
combination of sley & shuttle boxes.In 1733 A.D John
kay of Bury,England invented the"Fly Shuttle".This
invention wsa an extreamlyn important event in the
history and development of weaving.
3. Frame loom:
Frame loom: Frame looms almost have the
similar mechanisms that ground looms hold. The
loom was made of rods and panels fastened at
the right angles to construct a form similar to a
box to make it more handy and manageable. This
type of loom is being utilized even until now due
to its economy and portability.
4. Chittaranjan loom.
Chittaranjan loom:A type of
semiautomatic loom of sturdy
construction made of iron and
wood commonly used in Bengal is
known as Chittarangan loom.This
loom also called Japani loom.
5.Hattersley Loom
Hattersley Loom:In 1856 hattersley and hill of
kighley,Yourkshire act in the same manner as a
power loom excepting the movement of the slay
which may either be operated manually or by
motive power to the top shaft,but the loom is
constructed with lighter foming.
Power loom
Power Loom: This type of loom is not drive by
hand only eclectic power is used.
Air jet loom: This looms use a jet of air to propel the
filling yarn strength the shed,It requires uniform filling
yarn. They are suitable use with medium weight yarns
then very light and very heavy yarn.
7. Water jet loom
Water jet loom:A pre measured length of filling yarn is
carried across the loom by a jet of water.It can produce
superior quality of fabrics.
Rapier loom:These loom are competitors to the missille
looms.There are two types of rapier looms.Long rapier & double
rapier long/single rapier that carries the weft across the width
from one side of the loom to another.Double rapier that is one on
each side of the loom.One rapier feed the filling yarn half way
through the shed of warp yarn to the arm the other side,which
reach in and takes it across the rest of the way.
Projectile Loom: This picking action is accomplished by a
series of small bullet projectiles which grip the filing
yarn and carry it through the shed and return empty.
Multiphase loom
Sultzer Ruti, the manufacturer of a multiphase machine, states that its loom will
insert upto 5,400 meters of pick per minute.
LOOM MOTION
Loom
Primary Motion Secondary Motion Tertiary Motion
Primary motion
1Shedding:
(Tappet
(Dobby.
(Jacquard.
2Picking:
(Over pick
(Under pick.
(Modern pick.
3Beating:
(Single
(Multiple
(Variable.
Secondary Motion
1. Take up
a) Positive
b) Negative.
2. Let off
a) Positive
b) Negative.
(5 wheel, 7 wheel)
Tertiary Motion
1 Warp stop motion
2 Weft stop motion (Centre, side)
3 Reed stop motion (Loose, fast)
4 Temple motion (Roller, reed)
5 Weft replenish
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Loom motions: There are three types of loom motions:-
1. Primary
2. Secondary.
3. Tertiary.
Primary motions are: a) Shedding b) Picking c) Beating.
Secondary motions are: a) Take-up b) Let-off
Tertiary motions are: a) Warp stop b) Weft stop c) Reed stop.
Drafting: The process of passing yarn through the drop wire is called drafting.
Drawing: The process of passing yarn through the heald eye is called drawing.
Denting: The process of passing yarn through the reed is called denting.
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4/28/2020
Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in
Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in
Textile (BUTEX)
Tappet vs Dobby vs Jacquard
Shedding Mechanism
Tappet Loom & Tappet shedding Mechanism
Dobby Loom & Dobby shedding Mechanism
Jacquard Loom & Jacquard shedding Mechanism
Advantages of tappet shedding:
• Simplest
• Cheapest
• If properly used, it gives the best results within its capacity
• Action is certain
• It is capable of lifting heavy weights with less wear and tear than
other shedding mechanisms
• Less wear and tear
• Consumes less power and give greater output
Defects of tappet shedding:
• Over shedding strains and breaks the warp threads
• Under shedding does not permit the space to pass the shuttle
through the shed.
• Sometimes unequal shedding by lifting one end of the shaft more
than the other
• Missed shedding
• May impart jerky motion
• Capacity is only 14 heald shaft
Scope of Dobby:
#It can produce more complex design.
#Theoretically it can control maximum 48
heald frame but practically 36.
#For cotton yarn it can control maximum 48
heald frame.
#Production is less than tappet.
The no of heald shaft in a dobby is given below:
Tappet- 14
Dobby- Theoretical: 48
Practical (Wool & allied):36
Practical (cotton & allied): Maximum 24
(At least 12 heald shafts are used)
Scope of Jacquard/
Advantages & Disadvantages of Jacquard
It can be used for a large design which cannot be
possible on tappet or dobby.
No. heald shaft is used in this shedding & every warp is
controlled individually.
It is possible to lift 200 3000 yarns at any instant
though 8 -12 yarns are drafted in straight line.
It is the finest of all machines for making the figured
woven fabric that have ever been invented & for superior
in
capacity to a dobby.
Produce all types of designs.
Most costly fabric produced.
Disadvantages
1.Large space required
2.skilled worker
3.less speed
4.Costly
Picking Mechanism
Pick:
Pick is a single weft thread in fabric as
woven.
Picking:
The process of passing through warp
shed during weaving is called picking. It is
the 2nd primary motion in weaving.
Objective of picking:
To insert the weft through the
shed.
The shuttle must travel in the
correct flight path.
To maintain pick spacing/PPI
Working principal of Cone under pick
mechanism:
Working principal of Tappet & Cone
over pick mechanism :
Beat up Mechanism
Take-up Mechanism
Take-up is to draw a fabric to the cloth roller regularly as it
is woven. Texture of a fabric largely depends upon the
number of ends and picks per centimeter or inch. This
motion determines the number of picks of weft per inch
or centimeter and contributes to the uniform texture of
the fabric. It is the work of the weaver for accurately fixing
the position of the fell of the cloth before starting a loom.
Take up
Objective of Take-up Motion
To wind the woven fabric on the cloth roller with
progress of weaving.
To maintain uniform picks per inch.
Let off mechanism
Let-off motion
The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at
the required rate and at constant tension by unwinding it
from the weaver’s beam.
Basics of Knitting
DEFINITION
Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming
continuous strands of yarn a series of interlocking loops, each row
of such loop hanging by the one immediately preceding it. The
basic element of knit fabric structure is the loop intermeshed with
the loops adjacent to it on both side and above and bellows it.
TERMS
Kink of Yarn: Per loop from a single yarn.
Knitted Loop: two loops intermeshed.
Knitted Stitch: Three loops intermeshed.
 Top Arc: Loop Head
 Bottom Half Arc
 Leg/ Side Limber
 Needle Loop
 Sinker Loop
 Close Loop
Open Loop
• Wale: Vertical column of needle loop.
• Course: Horizontal row of needle loop.
Stitch Density: Wales per Inch × Course per Inch.
Stitch length: Needle loop + Sinker loop
•Extended sinker loop
Face loop
• Back loop
Independent Needle
Needle:
United Needle
Knitting M/C: there are three types of knitting M/C –
1. Warp knitting: Gives vertical movement of yarn.
2. Weft knitting: Gives horizontal movement of yarn.
3. Other loop forming and combined M/C: Tri-axial.
 Needle Carrier: Which carries needle.
 Number of Feed System: The number
of feeder by course.
 Working Diameter: In circular knitting m/c,
the distance from one needle exact to the
other needle is known as working dia.
 Working Width: In flat knitting m/c, the distance from first needle to the last needle
is known as working width.
 Gauge: Number of needle per inch.
 Pitch: The distance the center from one needle to the center of another needle is
known as pitch.
GSM
Stitch Length
• Open lap
• Close lap
 Over lap
 Under lap
O = over lap
U = under lap
MECHANICAL PRINCIPAL OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGY
Basic Elements of Knitting
1. Needle
2. Sinker
3. Cam
1. NEEDLE: There are various types of needle are available in market which can
be divided in the following group.
a. Spring Bearded Needle
b. Latch Needle
c. Compound Needle
2. SINKER
FUNCTION OF SINKER
There are three function of sinker.
1. Loop formation
2. Holding down
3. Knocking over
1. Loop Formation: On bearded needle weft knitting machines of straight bar
frame and sinker wheel type, the loop forming action is performed. The purpose of a
sinker is to kink the newly laid yarn into loop as its forward edge of advance
between two adjoining needle.
2. Holding down Sinker: The second function is hold down the old loop a lower
level on the needle stem, then the new loop which are being formed and prevent to
old loops from being lifted as the needles rise to clear from their hooks.
3. Knocking Over Sinker: The third function of the sinker is to knock over the
old loops on the neck of the new loops.
3. CAM
The knitting cams are hardened steels and they are the assembly of different cam
plates so that a track for butt can be arranged. Each needle movement is obtained by
means of cams acting on the needle butts.
The knitting cams are divided in to three groups. Such as
1. Knit cam
2. Tuck cam
3. Miss cam
FEATURES
SOME IMPORTANT MACHINE PARTS
CYLINDER
Steel circular bed having tricks
The needles move up & down
with reference to tricks
Maximum cylinder diameter is
75 cm
Cylinder diameter based on
fabric width
Carry the yarn to the knitting zone
Over head or side stationay stand
Contain the cones
Negative feeding
Creel
Yarn comes from
the creel
Passes through the
ring type yarn path
It faces feeder and
auto stopper
Finally threaded
to needle by
guide
YARN PATH DIAGRAM
CYLINDER PARAMETER
Diametre = 15 inches
Gauge = 25
Pitch = 2.5 mm
ALBUM
ALBUM
Double jersey circular knitting machine : The structure in
which the face and back loop occurs along to the coarse
successively but all the loops of a wale is same is called rib
structure. The circular knitting machine which is used to
produce the rib structures is known as rib machine.
Functions of rib circular machine's different
part
1.Creel:Creels are the knitting elements which carry the
yarn packages to feed the knitting zone.
2.Feeder:The feeders feed the yarn into the needles
hooks and control the needle latches in their position
while the needles attain their position.
3.Dial:Dial is the upper steel needle bed used in double
jersey knitting mc. Into the grooves of the dial ,the
needles are mounted horizontally and near allowed to
move radically in and out by their dial cam.
4. Guide: Guides control the yarn path which is very
necessary
Functions of rib circular machine's different part
5. Needle: It is the principal element of knitting m/c.
The function of the needle to retain old loop & to
receive the new loop.
6. Cam: The cams are the mechanical devices which
convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable
reciprocating action for the needles.
7. Cylinder: The cylinder is a steel circular bed
having grooves on its outer periphery where the
needles are mounted.
8.Fabric Spreader: A simple fabric spreader is a
solid wooden plate, placed above the take down
rollers & held in position by the fabric tube.
9.Cloth roller: this mechanism withdraw the fabric
from the needles & winds them into cloth roller
WARP KNITTING
WARP KNITTING
Raschel, made with latch needles,
Tricot, using bearded needles.
Main products
• Nets
• Curtains
• Technical fabrics
• Covers
• Covering sheets
WARP KNITTING
• Warp sheet
• Loops development with the help of
needles
• Loops insertion with the help of needles
• Needle movement controls mechanically
and electronically
WORKING PRINCIPLE
WARP KNITTING
In this process;
• yarn sheet is developed (warp sheet)
• and then with the help of needles stitches
are formed by,
• insertion new loop into old loop
WARP KNITTING MACHINE
WARP KNITTED FABRIC
Knitting Element Displacements
The diagram
summarizes the
somewhat
confusing
displacements
made by the guide
bar. The front of the
machine lies to the
right of the
diagram.
Raschel Warp Knitting Machine
Tricot Warp Knitting Machine | Raschel Warp Knitting Machine | Comparison
Between Tricot and Raschel Warp Knitting Machine
Basics of Fabric Manufacturing
Basics of Fabric Manufacturing

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Basics of Fabric Manufacturing

  • 1. Production of Textiles IPE 4109 Nurunnabi Lecturer National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
  • 2.
  • 3. Basics of Fabric Manufacturing Nurunnabi National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
  • 6.
  • 7.
  • 8.
  • 9.
  • 10.
  • 13.
  • 14.
  • 15.
  • 17. Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn a series of interlocking loops, each row of such loop hanging by the one immediately preceding it. The basic element of knit fabric structure is the loop intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both side and above and bellows it. Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fiber or filaments (and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally, or chemically. They are flat, porous sheets that are made directly from separate fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film. Braiding, in textiles, machine or hand method of interlacing three or more yarns or bias-cut cloth strips in such a way that they cross one another and are laid together in diagonal formation, forming a narrow strip of flat or tubular fabric.
  • 18. Shuttle Loom/Conventional Loom Shuttle less loom/Modern loom 1.Projectile 3.Airjet 2.Rapier 4. Water jet
  • 19. S/J circular knitting machine D/J circular knitting machine
  • 20. Automatic flatbed knitting machine Manual flatbed knitting machine
  • 21. Warp Knitting machine Braiding Machine Nonwoven machine
  • 22. 4/28/2020 Flow chart of fabric manufacturing technology:
  • 23.
  • 24. Yarn from spinning department
  • 25. Cone Winding • Winding is a process of transferring yarns from ring bobbins, hanks, cones etc into a convenient form of packages containing considerably long length of yarn. • The main purpose of winding or packaging is to form a single yarn package suitable for the next operation.
  • 27. Creel
  • 29. Warping Warping is aimed at preparing the weaver’s beam to be set up on the weaving machine. Warping carries out following operations :  Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads (creel load), of a warp composed of any number of threads with the desired length.  Arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the desired sequence. The industrial warping process can be carried out according to two different technologies: • Sectional warping (conical drum or indirect warping). • Beam warping or direct warping (preparatory beam warping).
  • 30. Sectional warping • Sectional warping is used for short runs, especially for fancy patterned fabrics.
  • 31. Sectional warping • In this case, sections of the warp which may contain up to 1,000 ends are first wound onto a drum tapered with a given cone angle. •So cross wound sections are combined on the drum, and thus each layer of warp contains the same number of ends on the drum.
  • 32.
  • 33. Sectional warping Then the warp threads altogether are transferred onto a weaver’s beam by unwinding the drum.
  • 34.
  • 35. Direct/ High speed/ Beam warping • Beam warping is used for long runs of grey fabrics. • As an intermediate stage warper’s beams which may contain up to 1,000 ends are produced. • Then the threads of 6-12 warper’s beam are combined at the slashing (sizing) stage and wound onto a weaver’s beam (loom beam).
  • 37. Sizing • Sizing is the application of adhesive coating in the warp threads before weaving. • The warp yarns can withstand the complex stresses to which they are subjected in the weaving machine.
  • 38. Sizing • The size is usually a starch paste containing softening and other ingredients. • Starch sizes are usually not satisfactory for synthetic fiber threads and have to be replaced by special sizes (often containing synthetic polymers) which will adhere better to the threads.
  • 40. Before the weaver’s beam is mounted on the loom, each end is threaded through a heald eye and the reed; it also supports a drop wire. • To pass the warp threads through the hole of the drop wire is known as pinning. • If a single warp breaks drop wire will drop. As a result Machine will stop instantly to avoid end missing.
  • 42. Drafting • Drafting is known as the selection of heald frames or harnesses for individual warp threads according to the design. • Drawing in: To pull the warp threads through the heald eye of the heald wire. •
  • 43.
  • 46. Denting • What is Reed? The reed is a comb-like structure consisting of regularly spaced wires. The word dent is commonly used to describe the space between two reed wires. • Denting: Denting means drawing the warp thread through the dent as required by reed plan and this determines more accurately the width of the fabric and the ends per cm. Drawing threads through dent with hook
  • 47. Tying-in • Tying-in is used when a fabric is being mass produced. • The tail end of the warp from the exhausted weaver’s beam is tied to the beginning of the new warp. • Therefore, if every end on the new beam is tied to its corresponding end on the old beam, the drawing-in process can be omitted. • Following the tying-in process, all knots are pulled through the drop wires, heddles and the reed. The loom is now ready for operation. •
  • 53. 4/28/2020 Objects of winding: 1. To improve the quality of yarn. 2. To get a suitable package. 3. To get a quality fabric. 4. To empty spinners bobbin so that it can be used again. 5. To clean the yarn. 6. To store the yarn. 7. To improve the efficiency of yarn for the next process. Winding Winding: This is the process of transfer yarns from ring, bobbin, hanks etc. into a convenient form of package containing considerably long length of yarn. This simple transfer of yarn from one package (bobbin) to another package (cone, spool, pirn) is called winding.
  • 55.
  • 57. cop
  • 58.
  • 59. Spool
  • 62.
  • 64.  Pirn Winding ………  Cop Winding Machine  spool Winding Machine  Cone Winding Machine  Cheese Winding Machine  Warp Winding Machine  Flange Bobbin Winding Machine  Precision Winding Machine  Non Precision Winding Machine  Direct Drive  Indirect Drive A. According to the package B. According to Winding C. According to Drive
  • 65.
  • 66. The requirement of winding may be summarized as follows- * The fault level in the yarn must be removed to an acceptable level. * The yarn must not damaged in any way in the winding process. * The yarn must be wound in such a way as to permit unwinding in the following process with a minimum of difficult at the requirement speed. * The package size, shape, & build must be the most technologically suitable for the particular end use. * The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic requirement. * The package hardness should be standard.
  • 67.  Breakage of yarn  Soft or Hard package  Not get shaped properly  Twist variation  Ribonzon  Dirty package  Oil or graase package  Hairiness package  Poor unwiring  Slack Knot
  • 68.
  • 69. Warping: The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone or cheese) on to a common package (warp beam) is called warping.
  • 70. Should meet the following requirement: 1. The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the time of withdrawal from supply packages, otherwise the rate of breakage will be increased & the structure of the ready cloth will be impaired. 2. Warping should not impair the physical & mechanical properties of yarn. The tension should moderate to allow the yarn to completely retain its elastic properties & strength. The yarn should not be subjected to sharp abrasive action. 3. The surface of warping package must be cylindrical. Therefore, the spreading of yarn (density) throughout the whole width of warping must be as uniform as possible. 4. A pre determined length of warping should be observed. 5. The production rate of warping should be as high as possible. REQUIREMENT OF WARPING
  • 71. 1. The yarns in the sheet should be in uniform spacing. 2. The yarns in the sheet should be in uniform tension. 3. The yarns in the sheet should be of a predetermined length. 4. The sheet should be containing a predetermined number of ends. 5. There should be no broken ends in the beam. REQUIREMENT OF WARPING
  • 72. Types of warping: 1. Beam warping – direct warping. 2. Patterns band or drum warping – Sectioned warping,(Indirect warping) 3. Ball warping WARPING:
  • 73. Beam Warping A weavers beam may have up to 10,000 ends and if this were to be produced directly it would be necessary to have up to 10,000 creel packages. Such an arrangement would be very difficult to accommodate and manage ;consequently it is normal practice to produce wrappers beams which may contain up to about 1000 ends and these are combined at the slashing stage. Because of the difficulties involved in combining the ends ,patterned warped beams are seldom produced on the direct system and any pattern that is produced is achieved by combining beams of various colors at the later stage of slashing. This imposes limitations which can only overcome by changing to pattern weaving. Sectional Warping Process In sectional warping sections are made sequentially and because of this the process is rather slow ;it is the practice therefore to produce no more than is required to fill a single weavers beam. The result is that the sectional warping is used mainly for short runs or for complex color patterns.
  • 74. Ball Warping The main object of ball warping is to prepare log for the rope dyeing machine. Here magazine type of creels is used for the creeling of yarns in the form of cheese
  • 77. In this process, the threads are being directly winding on a beam while unwinding the yarn from creel High speeded warping
  • 78. DIRECT I HI-SPEED WARPING MACHINE
  • 79. DIRECT I HI-SPEED WARPING MACHINE
  • 82. FUNCTION OF COMPONENTS OF CREEL Function of components of creel: 1. Cone or cheese spindle for high speed warping. 2. Thread guide: To pass through the yarn in the reqd way. 3. Tensioner: To keep the yarn always in a uniform tension. 4. Yarn cleaner: To remove various faults of yarn like slubs, neps etc. 5. Suction fan or blower: To remove the dirt & dust from the yarn. 6. Breakage indicator: To indicate breakage in package. 7. Stop device: To stop the m/c when yarn will be broken.
  • 83.
  • 84.
  • 85.
  • 86.
  • 87. High Speed Warping m/c Setting:
  • 88. Use of High-Speed Warping Machine • Producing one color fabric like gray fabric • For producing one/single color fabric • For the same count of yarn • Example: Shirt , Pant , Polo Shirt etc.
  • 90. •Sectional warping is a process of preparing warp beam over two stages. •First, yarns are wound in narrow tapes on a large drum. •Second, the rewinding of the warp onto a beam is performed.
  • 91. Features of sectional warping • To produce fancy fabric of different colors. • Hand weaving used in sectional warping. • To produce weavers beam from small amount of warp yarn. • To produce weavers beam from twisted yarn. • To produce weavers beam from which do not required any sizing material to be applied before weaving. • Weavers beam can be formed immediately after. • Production is less, so it is costly process. • Yarn tension can not be kept uniform. • A tapered beam or drum is used.
  • 92. HEAD STOCK OF SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE:
  • 93.
  • 94. HEAD STOCK OF SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE:
  • 96.
  • 97.
  • 98. Warp off centre of the beam: Due to not carefully placing of creel wraith and flanged beam. Remedy: Beam and wraith placed properly. uneven warp beam: This effect due to Winding of small no of ends on larger beam. When the dents are bent or the spacing between dents is uneven. Mixed count. Remedy: Higher no of ends be used. Crossed ends: Due to Faulty knotting after yarn breakage. Tying of broken ends. Loose warp. Remedy: Knotting and tension controlled. Faults & Remedies of Warping:
  • 99. Snarl formation in the warp: Due to Over tension. Improper twist. Position of guide. Remedy: By proper tension and twist. Missing ends: Due to Faulty stop device. Exhausted cone or bobbin. Absence of cone or bobbin on creel. Remedy: By correct stop device is used Hard beam: Due to high tension. Remedy: Tension and pressure maintained. Faults & Remedies of Warping:
  • 100. Unequal length : Due to faulty measuring device. Remedy: correct measuring device. Broken ends: Remedy: To be joined carefully the yarn. Warp ends round the creel peg. Unequal length of warp. Unequal size or weight of cone or cheese in the creel. Lapped ends. Piecing. Soft end on the warping beam. Warp ends round the creel peg(spindle) and results broke. Faults & Remedies of Warping:
  • 101. 4/28/2020 SIZING Size: A gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion applied normally to warp but sometimes to weft, generally before weaving is called size. Sizing: A method of applying a gelatinous film forming substance on warp is sizing. This is the most important operation to attain maximum weaving efficiency especially for blended & filament yarns. It is called the heart of weaving.
  • 102. 4/28/2020 Object of sizing: 1. To improve the weaveability of warp yarn by making it more resistant to action of weaving ie, absorption, friction, tension & flexing. 2. To maintain good fabric quality by reducing hairiness, weakness & by increasing smoothness, absorbency of yarn. 3. To improve the tensile or breaking strength of cellulosic yarns. 4. To increase the elasticity. 5. To increase the weight of yarn. 6. To increase the frictional resistance. 7. To remove the projected fibres. 8. To reduce electrostatic formation for synthetic or blend yarn.
  • 103. 4/28/2020 Requirement of sizing: 1. Sized warp must be sufficiently strong, smooth & elastic. 2. The sizing process must ensure the application of the required amount of size on the yarn or the required size regain. 3. The tensions of warp yarn at sizing must be regular & constant during all the warp unwinding from the warping beams. 4. Yarn strength & loss in elongation should be a within admitted limits. 5. The package ie, the weavers beams produced, must be have a cylindrical shape, the necessary winding density & yarn strength. 6. The sizing process must be efficient, economical & must ensure the production of high quality sized warps.
  • 104. 4/28/2020 AZMIR Size ingredients & their function: 1. Adhesive: Generally starch of maize, corn, rice, potato & CMC, PVA, PVC are used as adhesive. Tamarin is used as adhesive on jute yarn. The adhesive is granule form is mixed water & heated to form a paste which ultimately becomes viscous fluid. Function: a) To improve strength. b) To improve abrasion resistance. c) To increase extensibility. 2. Lubricant or Softener: Mineral oil, linseed oil, coconut oil, vegitable oil,tallow, japan wax,vegitable wax are used as a lubricant. Function: a) To make the yarn soft & slippery. b) To reduce stiffness.
  • 105. 4/28/2020 3. Antiseptic or Antimildew agent: Salicylic acid, Zinc chloride, phenol carboxylic acid are used as antiseptic agent. Function: a) It helps to store the yarn without damage. b) Protect yarn from bacteria or fungus formation. 4. Deliquescent or Hygroscopic Agent: Glycerin, calcium chloride, are used as deliquescent agent. Function: a) Prevent brittleness of size. b) Helps to keep standard moisture regain. 5. Weighting agent: China clay, French chalk, sodium phosphate are used as weighting agent. Function: a) Increase weight of yarn.
  • 106. 4/28/2020 6. Wetting agent: Magnesium chloride, avirol, sulphanol A are used as wetting agent. Function: a) Helps to wet yarn instantly. 7. Tinting agent: Blue is used as tinting agent. Function: a)To increase lusture or brightness. 8. Antifoaming agent: Benzene, pyridine are used as antifoaming agent. Function: a)To prevent foam formation.
  • 107. 4/28/2020 Types of sizing: 1. Pure sizing: This types of sizing is done for unbleached fabric. 3-10% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric. 2. Light sizing: This types of sizing is used for Dyeing & Printing of woven fabric. 11- 15% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric. 3. Medium sizing: This types of sizing is used for increase of strength & weight of fabric. 16-40% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric. 4. Heavy sizing: This types of sizing is used for increase the weight twisted & lower count yarn. Above 40% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.
  • 108. 4/28/2020 Techniques of sizing: * Slasher sizing * Emulsion sizing * Foam sizing * Hot melt sizing * Electrostatic sizing * High pressure sizing * Combined sizing * Solvent sizing.
  • 109. 4/28/2020 Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)
  • 113. 4/28/2020 Faults in sizing: 1. Sticky warp. 2. Gum spot. 3. Under slashed yarn. 4. Over slashed yarn. 5. Over dried yarn. 6. Non uniform sizing. 7. Cross or lost ends. 8. Improper boiled of yarn. 9. Incorrect warp length. 10. Dirty warp. Dressing: The process of jute sizing is called dressing.
  • 114. 4/28/2020 Loom/Weaving Machine Loom: Loom is machine or device which is used to produce woven fabric. It is the central point of whole process of cloth production.
  • 115.
  • 116. History of Loom • Weaving process was introduced to human society • Major developments in textile took place in England • Woven fabrics was produced by at least two people employed on loom
  • 119. 1. Primitive or Vertical loom. Primitive or Vertical loom: A primitive loom is generally by sinking the frame into the ground and the work inside the pit by both feet. The framework is of bamboo. This loom had been known to be in use in 5000 to 6000 years B.C. This loom are still used for weaving silk pieces ,silk shirting and sarees, muslim, etc.by derivative weavers.
  • 120.
  • 121. 2. Pit loom Pit loom: This loom is created by sunking four posters into the ground and with an overhang sley.The thread work inside the pit,so that the warp threads may absorb moisture and better weaving will result.In this loom the combination of sley & shuttle boxes.In 1733 A.D John kay of Bury,England invented the"Fly Shuttle".This invention wsa an extreamlyn important event in the history and development of weaving.
  • 122.
  • 123. 3. Frame loom: Frame loom: Frame looms almost have the similar mechanisms that ground looms hold. The loom was made of rods and panels fastened at the right angles to construct a form similar to a box to make it more handy and manageable. This type of loom is being utilized even until now due to its economy and portability.
  • 124.
  • 125. 4. Chittaranjan loom. Chittaranjan loom:A type of semiautomatic loom of sturdy construction made of iron and wood commonly used in Bengal is known as Chittarangan loom.This loom also called Japani loom.
  • 126.
  • 127. 5.Hattersley Loom Hattersley Loom:In 1856 hattersley and hill of kighley,Yourkshire act in the same manner as a power loom excepting the movement of the slay which may either be operated manually or by motive power to the top shaft,but the loom is constructed with lighter foming.
  • 128.
  • 129. Power loom Power Loom: This type of loom is not drive by hand only eclectic power is used.
  • 130. Air jet loom: This looms use a jet of air to propel the filling yarn strength the shed,It requires uniform filling yarn. They are suitable use with medium weight yarns then very light and very heavy yarn.
  • 131. 7. Water jet loom Water jet loom:A pre measured length of filling yarn is carried across the loom by a jet of water.It can produce superior quality of fabrics.
  • 132. Rapier loom:These loom are competitors to the missille looms.There are two types of rapier looms.Long rapier & double rapier long/single rapier that carries the weft across the width from one side of the loom to another.Double rapier that is one on each side of the loom.One rapier feed the filling yarn half way through the shed of warp yarn to the arm the other side,which reach in and takes it across the rest of the way.
  • 133. Projectile Loom: This picking action is accomplished by a series of small bullet projectiles which grip the filing yarn and carry it through the shed and return empty.
  • 134. Multiphase loom Sultzer Ruti, the manufacturer of a multiphase machine, states that its loom will insert upto 5,400 meters of pick per minute.
  • 135. LOOM MOTION Loom Primary Motion Secondary Motion Tertiary Motion Primary motion 1Shedding: (Tappet (Dobby. (Jacquard. 2Picking: (Over pick (Under pick. (Modern pick. 3Beating: (Single (Multiple (Variable. Secondary Motion 1. Take up a) Positive b) Negative. 2. Let off a) Positive b) Negative. (5 wheel, 7 wheel) Tertiary Motion 1 Warp stop motion 2 Weft stop motion (Centre, side) 3 Reed stop motion (Loose, fast) 4 Temple motion (Roller, reed) 5 Weft replenish
  • 136. 4/28/2020 Loom motions: There are three types of loom motions:- 1. Primary 2. Secondary. 3. Tertiary. Primary motions are: a) Shedding b) Picking c) Beating. Secondary motions are: a) Take-up b) Let-off Tertiary motions are: a) Warp stop b) Weft stop c) Reed stop. Drafting: The process of passing yarn through the drop wire is called drafting. Drawing: The process of passing yarn through the heald eye is called drawing. Denting: The process of passing yarn through the reed is called denting.
  • 140. 4/28/2020 Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)
  • 141. Tappet vs Dobby vs Jacquard Shedding Mechanism
  • 142. Tappet Loom & Tappet shedding Mechanism
  • 143. Dobby Loom & Dobby shedding Mechanism
  • 144. Jacquard Loom & Jacquard shedding Mechanism
  • 145. Advantages of tappet shedding: • Simplest • Cheapest • If properly used, it gives the best results within its capacity • Action is certain • It is capable of lifting heavy weights with less wear and tear than other shedding mechanisms • Less wear and tear • Consumes less power and give greater output
  • 146. Defects of tappet shedding: • Over shedding strains and breaks the warp threads • Under shedding does not permit the space to pass the shuttle through the shed. • Sometimes unequal shedding by lifting one end of the shaft more than the other • Missed shedding • May impart jerky motion • Capacity is only 14 heald shaft
  • 147. Scope of Dobby: #It can produce more complex design. #Theoretically it can control maximum 48 heald frame but practically 36. #For cotton yarn it can control maximum 48 heald frame. #Production is less than tappet. The no of heald shaft in a dobby is given below: Tappet- 14 Dobby- Theoretical: 48 Practical (Wool & allied):36 Practical (cotton & allied): Maximum 24 (At least 12 heald shafts are used)
  • 148. Scope of Jacquard/ Advantages & Disadvantages of Jacquard It can be used for a large design which cannot be possible on tappet or dobby. No. heald shaft is used in this shedding & every warp is controlled individually. It is possible to lift 200 3000 yarns at any instant though 8 -12 yarns are drafted in straight line. It is the finest of all machines for making the figured woven fabric that have ever been invented & for superior in capacity to a dobby. Produce all types of designs. Most costly fabric produced.
  • 149. Disadvantages 1.Large space required 2.skilled worker 3.less speed 4.Costly
  • 150.
  • 151.
  • 152.
  • 154. Pick: Pick is a single weft thread in fabric as woven. Picking: The process of passing through warp shed during weaving is called picking. It is the 2nd primary motion in weaving.
  • 155. Objective of picking: To insert the weft through the shed. The shuttle must travel in the correct flight path. To maintain pick spacing/PPI
  • 156. Working principal of Cone under pick mechanism:
  • 157. Working principal of Tappet & Cone over pick mechanism :
  • 159.
  • 160.
  • 161.
  • 163. Take-up is to draw a fabric to the cloth roller regularly as it is woven. Texture of a fabric largely depends upon the number of ends and picks per centimeter or inch. This motion determines the number of picks of weft per inch or centimeter and contributes to the uniform texture of the fabric. It is the work of the weaver for accurately fixing the position of the fell of the cloth before starting a loom. Take up
  • 164.
  • 165. Objective of Take-up Motion To wind the woven fabric on the cloth roller with progress of weaving. To maintain uniform picks per inch.
  • 167. Let-off motion The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at the required rate and at constant tension by unwinding it from the weaver’s beam.
  • 168.
  • 170. DEFINITION Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn a series of interlocking loops, each row of such loop hanging by the one immediately preceding it. The basic element of knit fabric structure is the loop intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both side and above and bellows it.
  • 171.
  • 172.
  • 173. TERMS Kink of Yarn: Per loop from a single yarn. Knitted Loop: two loops intermeshed. Knitted Stitch: Three loops intermeshed.  Top Arc: Loop Head  Bottom Half Arc  Leg/ Side Limber  Needle Loop  Sinker Loop  Close Loop Open Loop
  • 174. • Wale: Vertical column of needle loop. • Course: Horizontal row of needle loop. Stitch Density: Wales per Inch × Course per Inch. Stitch length: Needle loop + Sinker loop •Extended sinker loop Face loop • Back loop Independent Needle Needle: United Needle Knitting M/C: there are three types of knitting M/C – 1. Warp knitting: Gives vertical movement of yarn. 2. Weft knitting: Gives horizontal movement of yarn. 3. Other loop forming and combined M/C: Tri-axial.
  • 175.  Needle Carrier: Which carries needle.  Number of Feed System: The number of feeder by course.  Working Diameter: In circular knitting m/c, the distance from one needle exact to the other needle is known as working dia.  Working Width: In flat knitting m/c, the distance from first needle to the last needle is known as working width.  Gauge: Number of needle per inch.  Pitch: The distance the center from one needle to the center of another needle is known as pitch. GSM Stitch Length
  • 176. • Open lap • Close lap  Over lap  Under lap O = over lap U = under lap
  • 177. MECHANICAL PRINCIPAL OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGY Basic Elements of Knitting 1. Needle 2. Sinker 3. Cam 1. NEEDLE: There are various types of needle are available in market which can be divided in the following group. a. Spring Bearded Needle b. Latch Needle c. Compound Needle
  • 178.
  • 179.
  • 181. FUNCTION OF SINKER There are three function of sinker. 1. Loop formation 2. Holding down 3. Knocking over 1. Loop Formation: On bearded needle weft knitting machines of straight bar frame and sinker wheel type, the loop forming action is performed. The purpose of a sinker is to kink the newly laid yarn into loop as its forward edge of advance between two adjoining needle. 2. Holding down Sinker: The second function is hold down the old loop a lower level on the needle stem, then the new loop which are being formed and prevent to old loops from being lifted as the needles rise to clear from their hooks. 3. Knocking Over Sinker: The third function of the sinker is to knock over the old loops on the neck of the new loops.
  • 182. 3. CAM The knitting cams are hardened steels and they are the assembly of different cam plates so that a track for butt can be arranged. Each needle movement is obtained by means of cams acting on the needle butts. The knitting cams are divided in to three groups. Such as 1. Knit cam 2. Tuck cam 3. Miss cam
  • 183.
  • 184.
  • 185.
  • 186.
  • 187.
  • 190.
  • 191.
  • 192.
  • 193. CYLINDER Steel circular bed having tricks The needles move up & down with reference to tricks Maximum cylinder diameter is 75 cm Cylinder diameter based on fabric width
  • 194. Carry the yarn to the knitting zone Over head or side stationay stand Contain the cones Negative feeding Creel
  • 195. Yarn comes from the creel Passes through the ring type yarn path It faces feeder and auto stopper Finally threaded to needle by guide YARN PATH DIAGRAM
  • 196. CYLINDER PARAMETER Diametre = 15 inches Gauge = 25 Pitch = 2.5 mm
  • 197. ALBUM
  • 198. ALBUM
  • 199.
  • 200.
  • 201.
  • 202.
  • 203. Double jersey circular knitting machine : The structure in which the face and back loop occurs along to the coarse successively but all the loops of a wale is same is called rib structure. The circular knitting machine which is used to produce the rib structures is known as rib machine.
  • 204. Functions of rib circular machine's different part 1.Creel:Creels are the knitting elements which carry the yarn packages to feed the knitting zone. 2.Feeder:The feeders feed the yarn into the needles hooks and control the needle latches in their position while the needles attain their position. 3.Dial:Dial is the upper steel needle bed used in double jersey knitting mc. Into the grooves of the dial ,the needles are mounted horizontally and near allowed to move radically in and out by their dial cam. 4. Guide: Guides control the yarn path which is very necessary
  • 205. Functions of rib circular machine's different part 5. Needle: It is the principal element of knitting m/c. The function of the needle to retain old loop & to receive the new loop. 6. Cam: The cams are the mechanical devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles. 7. Cylinder: The cylinder is a steel circular bed having grooves on its outer periphery where the needles are mounted. 8.Fabric Spreader: A simple fabric spreader is a solid wooden plate, placed above the take down rollers & held in position by the fabric tube. 9.Cloth roller: this mechanism withdraw the fabric from the needles & winds them into cloth roller
  • 207. WARP KNITTING Raschel, made with latch needles, Tricot, using bearded needles.
  • 208. Main products • Nets • Curtains • Technical fabrics • Covers • Covering sheets WARP KNITTING
  • 209. • Warp sheet • Loops development with the help of needles • Loops insertion with the help of needles • Needle movement controls mechanically and electronically WORKING PRINCIPLE
  • 210. WARP KNITTING In this process; • yarn sheet is developed (warp sheet) • and then with the help of needles stitches are formed by, • insertion new loop into old loop
  • 213. Knitting Element Displacements The diagram summarizes the somewhat confusing displacements made by the guide bar. The front of the machine lies to the right of the diagram.
  • 215. Tricot Warp Knitting Machine | Raschel Warp Knitting Machine | Comparison Between Tricot and Raschel Warp Knitting Machine