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MİTHAT ÖZTEKİN
ELECT. ELECTR ENG.
COTTON EXPERT ( MS )
Welcome to the World of FANCY YARN by AMSLER TEX
Fancy YarnSingle 2 Component
3
Com
Po
nent
• Fancy yarn is related to people's imagination and offers a wide variety.
• Spiral Yarn
• Tuberous Yarn
•Gimp Yarn
•Ratine iplikler
•Buklet Yarn
•Loop yarn
• Twisted Yarn
•Nope Yarn
* In the form of the yarn, the color, brightness, raw materials quality etc.,
showing the characteristics feature, that the aesthetics of a particular fabric with
fabric finish are called Fancy yarn
•Flok Yarn
•Jaspe iplikler
•Melange Yarn
Muline Yarn
•Vigure Yarn
Eksantrik Yarn
•Frize Yarn
•Metalic Yarn
Knitting yarn• Core Yarn• Cyro Yarn
•injection Yarn
•Slub Yarn
• Short slub Yarn
Multi Count Yarn
•Multi Twist Yarn
Gipe Yarn
•Chenille Yarn
•Negative Slub Yarn
WHAT IS FANCY YARN ?
• Dual Core Yarn
• Rigit Yarn
Slub
• A single layer structure of the flat yarn is created with Program control by
changes in thickness and length, ‘’Slub – Flamme Yarn’’ is called.
WHAT IS SLUB YARN ?
AMSLER Fancy Yarn Devices
SDE – Ground Slub System MC – Multi Count Yarn System
MT/ TC – Multi Twist Yarn System CORE XXX – Core Yarn System
XSS – Extreme Short Slub
E_Profi – Slub and Fabric Simulation
Program
HPC – High performance cooling
OE System
3C – Injection System
T 400 Fiber Cyro Yarn
…….We have a solution for Fancy Yarn Productions.
NULU – New Look OE Yarn mDraft – Multi Drfat CORE system
THE WORKING PRINCIBLE OF THE SYSTEM
AIM OF THE SYSTEM IS TO CONTROL THE SPEEDS OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERS
IT MEANS THAT, THE SPEED OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERS ARE INCREASED BY EXTRAAMSLER
MOTORS (BACK, MIDDLE, FRONT ROLLERS )
SO THAT, THERE IS A MECHANICAL MODIFICATION ON MACHINE.
THE MACHINE HAS DRIVED WITH 2 SIDE ( HEAD – SUCTION ) FOR DRAFT
IF THE RING SPINING MACHINE IS LONG , THE MACHINE HAS 3 DRIVE ( HEAD,MIDDLE,SYN.)
FOR O.E MACHINE, THE SPEED OF FEEDING ROLLERS ARE CONTROLLED BY EXTRAAMSLER MOTORS
DRIVE OF TWIST AND DRAFT BY MOTORS
DRIVE OF FEEDING ROLLERS BY MOTOR
Working principle for ground slubs on ring spin frame
Drafting system
Feed
rollers
Motor/gearing-diagram
Motor
Motor
Motor
Spindles
Motor
Feed rollers
* Speed of Rollers are controlled by Motor (Accelerated )
* Drive The Twist and Draft with additional Gearbox
Front
Roller
Working principle for ground slubs on open-end
* Feed Rollers are controlled by Motor (Accelerated )
Feed Roller
STG Control Box
TYPES OF YARN
WHICH KIND OF FANCY YARN CAN WE PRODUCE WITH AMSLER DEVICE ?
• GROUND SLUB YARN ( GF )
• MULTI COUNT YARN ( MC)
• MUTI TWIST YARN ( TC )
• EXTREME SHORT SLUB YARN (XS-S)
• NEGATIVE SLUB
Basic information on AMSLER SDE - MC – TC System
• Long slub is not a MC yarn type
• Twist characteristic is different on
thick place which is called slub
when comparing with Normal yarn
( base yarn )
• ideal base and thick length of
MC,TC yarn should be min. 200
cm. due to variable twist
• MC and TC yarn have variable
twist on the yarn.
GF / GROUND FLAMME – GS / BASIC SLUB
GROUND FLAMME and BASIC SLUB are SAME MEANING.
BASİC SLUB YARN ;
* Min. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE FİBER LENGTH ( For Example ; 3 cm for Cotton )
* Max. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE EQUAL TO TWIST ZONE ( Depend on slub Thickness )
* TWIST IS CONSTANT ON THE YARN
* 180 SLUB / MIN IS POSSIBLE ON THE SYSTEM
* Max.THICKNESS IS 4.8 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS ( FD Table )
RING FRAME ;
MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = FIBER LENGTH + % 10 FIBER LENGTH
O.E. SPINING ;
MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = ROTOR DIAMETER
Various SLUB
Slub Thickness are
look like ladder
( increasing and
decreasing step by
step )
Slub Thickness and Slub Legth are constant
Slub Thickness is Constant
Slub Length is variable
MC / MULTI COUNT
MULTI COUNT YARN ;
* YARN COUNT ( Ne ) AND TWIST ARE VARIABLE ON THE YARN
* DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS.
* MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE.
* Max. THICKNESS IS 2.2 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS
TC / MULTI TWIST
MULTI TWIST YARN ;
* YARN COUNT ( Ne ) IS CONSTANT AND TWIST IS VARIABLE THE YARN
* DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS.
* * MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE.
* Max. THICKNESS IS 1.5 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS
SLUB YARN DESIGN
1 - FROM YARN SAMPLE
* Using USTER Mass Diagram
* To Measure ( Slub Length and thickness )
* To Weigth ( Cut Slub Length and Cut Normal Yarn length )
2 - FROM FABRIC SAMPLE
3 - ON THE PHONE ( Min. – Max. Values, Thickness etc. )
4 - FROM CODE ( Amsler EP code or Other slub system code )
3-methodes of effect yarn programming, resulting in fixed chart
Fabric copy
Programm code
chart: EPX
Yarn scanning
PC created codes
from WinPK II
Transformation of the full
effect yarn in digital data
for length, thickness and
distances between effects
for a defined pattern,called
programm REPORT.
No un-defined randomizer.
Development
100%
repeating
REPORT
Codes created by
AMSLER Yarn scanner
1 or 2 3or
Up to 4000 fix codes,
each access-able
30 0
7 8
90 0
15 5
==>
AMSLER Principle of programming
Codes created by
scanning of single yarn
DECIMAL CODE / Normal Slub
BASE YARN LEGTH , SLUB LENGTH , SLUB THICKNESS DESIGNATE ON THE SAMPLE YARN.
EFFECT PROGRAM CODE IS TWO DIGIT.
X X
LENGTH
( SE )
OR
(CH1)
THICKNESS
( FD )
OR
(CH2)
Z1 Z2
Z0
X1 X2 X3
Y1 Y2
X1,X2,X3,...........= BASE YARN LEGTH
Y1,Y2,Y3,...........= SLUB LEGTH
Z0........................= BASE YARN THICKNESS and IT IS CODE
‘’ 0 ‘’ IN THE PROGRAM
Z1,Z2,..................= SLUB THICKNESS
ADRES LENGTH THICKNESS
0 X1 Z0
1 Y1 Z1
2 X2 Z0
3 Y2 Z2
4 X3 Z0
.
. . .
SLUB Yarn Measurement from USTER Mass
Diagram
Slub Length SLUB
Thickness
Base Yarn Length
SLUB
Thickness
Slub Length Slub Length
Base Yarn Length
5
EXAMPLE : CH1 Slub program Code
45
3
20 13 21
Lenght Thickness 3
4
NEGATIVE SLUB
Normal Slub and Negative Slub explanations
Negative Slub
Normal Slub
Negative Slub Yarn Board and Fabric
Prior to the actual production, we are able to project on a
computer screen the virtual reality fabric:
“THE MAGIC WORLD OF FANCY YARN”
E-Profi system = key to the future !
AMSLER TEX E-PROFI system
SLUB Analyse
SLUB Clasification
Hardware
Software
FABRIC PREVIEW
QUALITY
DEVELOPMENT
LIGHT
SCANNER
OPEN
END
iplik efekti
RING
iplik efekti
LİKRA
iplik
donanımları
WinPK® II
sistem
donanımı
Effect-
PROFI
scanner sitemi
AMSLER Effect-PROFI System
WİNPK PROGRAM HAS 4 MODULES ;
1- LIGTH, 2- DEVELOPMENT, 3-QUALITY , 4- FABRIC PREVİEW
QUALITY MODULE IS INCLUDING YARN SCANNER.
COMPLETE PROGRAM IS CALLED ‘’ E_PROFI ‘’
YARN SCANNER
• AMSLER yarn scanner range is between Ne 1 ve 120
• Blue Light should be continously light before scan the yarn with Laser Scanner
• Frist start and time to time , Calibration of Laser Scanner is necessary with Coloured Calibration Sticks
THERE IS TWO TYPE YARN SCANNER,
* LASER SCANNER
* FLAT SCANNER
KNITTING SIMULATION
FABRIC IMAGE AFTER CUT AND WASH FACTOR
2
9
6
2
2
6
2
WinPK_Eprofi
Fabric Preview
Aynı efekt programın farklı renk ve Taşlama ile Yıkama görüntüleri
Design Original Fabric
Negative / Positive Slub XSS – Extreme Short
Slub Yarn Board
This is an example
From Yarn to Fabric
ABOUT QUALITY AND WORK ON RSM
* TWIST
* TRAVELLER
* CLİP
* DRAFT ON RSM
- Total Draft
- Predraft
* DELIVERY SPEED
* Lab. CHECKING
* USTER TEST RESULT
pre draft (usual 1.14)
main draft
total draft (minimal 20)
Roving material and twist
and roller- distance
and roller- distance
toproller Ø, condition, rubber quality, rubber hardnes (shore)
Spacer climateapron condition and quality
pre draft, main draft, total draft
DRAFTING SYSTEM
Creation of yarn twist
The most important component is the traveler
Why do we need twist in the yarn ?
YARN TWIST without fibre friction
= no yarn strength
with fibre friction
= yarn strength
No twist, no yarn
To make the yarn stronger
How set the twist of slub yarn ?
% 120 % 250
Av. Ne 10 ( KES 341 )
Twist T’’ 13,9 (α=4.4 )
5,48 Turn/cm
Ne 8,2
T’’ 13,9 ( 12,6 )
5,48 tur /cm ( 5 )
Ne 3,9
T’’ 13,9 ( 8,69 )
5,48 tur /cm ( 3,5 )
Ne 12
T’’ 13,9 (15,2 )
5,48 tur/cm ( 6 )
Ne 12
T’’ 13,9
Ne 12
T’’ 13,9
Cotton Mic. 4,4
Cross 874
Cross 284 Cross 284
CrossS 416
CrossS 284
* Av. Ne
* Distribution Ne
* Twist
* The Number of Fiber Cross
section
(α=4 )
(α=4.85 )
(α=4 ) (α=6 )(α=3,5 )
TRAVELLER
Wire profile
f = flat dr = half round udr = ultra (wide) half round fr = flat / round
Traveller shape
low - bowed low to medium bowed high - bowed
Only for cotton Fine cotton yarns,
blends, synthetics
and SLUB YARN
for cotton, blends,
(SLUB YARN)
For Core yarn with PES core
Acrylics, delicate fibers
and CORE SLUB YARN
fine cotton and
compact yarns
for fine to medium
cotton yarns
for medium to coarse
cotton yarns, also
blends, synthetics and
SLUB YARN
For Slubyarn the traveler will be 1 to 3 numbers heavier than normal
It depends on slub thickness
Front cylinder 100% stop Front cylinder 95% stop
XSS recommendation
Thin place
Basic Slub recommendation
For long slub
MC / MT recommendation
200 cm 200 cm200 cm
Ladder
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Mithat ÖZTEKİN
Electric-Electronic Engineer
Cotton Expert ( Ms )

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Slub yarn

  • 1. MİTHAT ÖZTEKİN ELECT. ELECTR ENG. COTTON EXPERT ( MS ) Welcome to the World of FANCY YARN by AMSLER TEX
  • 2. Fancy YarnSingle 2 Component 3 Com Po nent • Fancy yarn is related to people's imagination and offers a wide variety. • Spiral Yarn • Tuberous Yarn •Gimp Yarn •Ratine iplikler •Buklet Yarn •Loop yarn • Twisted Yarn •Nope Yarn * In the form of the yarn, the color, brightness, raw materials quality etc., showing the characteristics feature, that the aesthetics of a particular fabric with fabric finish are called Fancy yarn •Flok Yarn •Jaspe iplikler •Melange Yarn Muline Yarn •Vigure Yarn Eksantrik Yarn •Frize Yarn •Metalic Yarn Knitting yarn• Core Yarn• Cyro Yarn •injection Yarn •Slub Yarn • Short slub Yarn Multi Count Yarn •Multi Twist Yarn Gipe Yarn •Chenille Yarn •Negative Slub Yarn WHAT IS FANCY YARN ? • Dual Core Yarn • Rigit Yarn
  • 3. Slub • A single layer structure of the flat yarn is created with Program control by changes in thickness and length, ‘’Slub – Flamme Yarn’’ is called. WHAT IS SLUB YARN ?
  • 4. AMSLER Fancy Yarn Devices SDE – Ground Slub System MC – Multi Count Yarn System MT/ TC – Multi Twist Yarn System CORE XXX – Core Yarn System
  • 5. XSS – Extreme Short Slub E_Profi – Slub and Fabric Simulation Program HPC – High performance cooling OE System 3C – Injection System
  • 6. T 400 Fiber Cyro Yarn …….We have a solution for Fancy Yarn Productions. NULU – New Look OE Yarn mDraft – Multi Drfat CORE system
  • 7. THE WORKING PRINCIBLE OF THE SYSTEM AIM OF THE SYSTEM IS TO CONTROL THE SPEEDS OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERS IT MEANS THAT, THE SPEED OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERS ARE INCREASED BY EXTRAAMSLER MOTORS (BACK, MIDDLE, FRONT ROLLERS ) SO THAT, THERE IS A MECHANICAL MODIFICATION ON MACHINE. THE MACHINE HAS DRIVED WITH 2 SIDE ( HEAD – SUCTION ) FOR DRAFT IF THE RING SPINING MACHINE IS LONG , THE MACHINE HAS 3 DRIVE ( HEAD,MIDDLE,SYN.) FOR O.E MACHINE, THE SPEED OF FEEDING ROLLERS ARE CONTROLLED BY EXTRAAMSLER MOTORS DRIVE OF TWIST AND DRAFT BY MOTORS DRIVE OF FEEDING ROLLERS BY MOTOR
  • 8. Working principle for ground slubs on ring spin frame Drafting system Feed rollers Motor/gearing-diagram Motor Motor Motor Spindles Motor Feed rollers * Speed of Rollers are controlled by Motor (Accelerated ) * Drive The Twist and Draft with additional Gearbox Front Roller
  • 9. Working principle for ground slubs on open-end * Feed Rollers are controlled by Motor (Accelerated ) Feed Roller STG Control Box
  • 10. TYPES OF YARN WHICH KIND OF FANCY YARN CAN WE PRODUCE WITH AMSLER DEVICE ? • GROUND SLUB YARN ( GF ) • MULTI COUNT YARN ( MC) • MUTI TWIST YARN ( TC ) • EXTREME SHORT SLUB YARN (XS-S) • NEGATIVE SLUB
  • 11. Basic information on AMSLER SDE - MC – TC System • Long slub is not a MC yarn type • Twist characteristic is different on thick place which is called slub when comparing with Normal yarn ( base yarn ) • ideal base and thick length of MC,TC yarn should be min. 200 cm. due to variable twist • MC and TC yarn have variable twist on the yarn.
  • 12. GF / GROUND FLAMME – GS / BASIC SLUB GROUND FLAMME and BASIC SLUB are SAME MEANING. BASİC SLUB YARN ; * Min. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE FİBER LENGTH ( For Example ; 3 cm for Cotton ) * Max. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE EQUAL TO TWIST ZONE ( Depend on slub Thickness ) * TWIST IS CONSTANT ON THE YARN * 180 SLUB / MIN IS POSSIBLE ON THE SYSTEM * Max.THICKNESS IS 4.8 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS ( FD Table ) RING FRAME ; MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = FIBER LENGTH + % 10 FIBER LENGTH O.E. SPINING ; MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = ROTOR DIAMETER
  • 13. Various SLUB Slub Thickness are look like ladder ( increasing and decreasing step by step ) Slub Thickness and Slub Legth are constant Slub Thickness is Constant Slub Length is variable
  • 14. MC / MULTI COUNT MULTI COUNT YARN ; * YARN COUNT ( Ne ) AND TWIST ARE VARIABLE ON THE YARN * DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS. * MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE. * Max. THICKNESS IS 2.2 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS TC / MULTI TWIST MULTI TWIST YARN ; * YARN COUNT ( Ne ) IS CONSTANT AND TWIST IS VARIABLE THE YARN * DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS. * * MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE. * Max. THICKNESS IS 1.5 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS
  • 15. SLUB YARN DESIGN 1 - FROM YARN SAMPLE * Using USTER Mass Diagram * To Measure ( Slub Length and thickness ) * To Weigth ( Cut Slub Length and Cut Normal Yarn length ) 2 - FROM FABRIC SAMPLE 3 - ON THE PHONE ( Min. – Max. Values, Thickness etc. ) 4 - FROM CODE ( Amsler EP code or Other slub system code )
  • 16. 3-methodes of effect yarn programming, resulting in fixed chart Fabric copy Programm code chart: EPX Yarn scanning PC created codes from WinPK II Transformation of the full effect yarn in digital data for length, thickness and distances between effects for a defined pattern,called programm REPORT. No un-defined randomizer. Development 100% repeating REPORT Codes created by AMSLER Yarn scanner 1 or 2 3or Up to 4000 fix codes, each access-able 30 0 7 8 90 0 15 5 ==> AMSLER Principle of programming Codes created by scanning of single yarn
  • 17. DECIMAL CODE / Normal Slub BASE YARN LEGTH , SLUB LENGTH , SLUB THICKNESS DESIGNATE ON THE SAMPLE YARN. EFFECT PROGRAM CODE IS TWO DIGIT. X X LENGTH ( SE ) OR (CH1) THICKNESS ( FD ) OR (CH2) Z1 Z2 Z0 X1 X2 X3 Y1 Y2 X1,X2,X3,...........= BASE YARN LEGTH Y1,Y2,Y3,...........= SLUB LEGTH Z0........................= BASE YARN THICKNESS and IT IS CODE ‘’ 0 ‘’ IN THE PROGRAM Z1,Z2,..................= SLUB THICKNESS ADRES LENGTH THICKNESS 0 X1 Z0 1 Y1 Z1 2 X2 Z0 3 Y2 Z2 4 X3 Z0 . . . .
  • 18. SLUB Yarn Measurement from USTER Mass Diagram Slub Length SLUB Thickness Base Yarn Length SLUB Thickness Slub Length Slub Length Base Yarn Length
  • 19. 5 EXAMPLE : CH1 Slub program Code 45 3 20 13 21 Lenght Thickness 3 4
  • 21. Normal Slub and Negative Slub explanations
  • 23. Negative Slub Yarn Board and Fabric
  • 24. Prior to the actual production, we are able to project on a computer screen the virtual reality fabric: “THE MAGIC WORLD OF FANCY YARN” E-Profi system = key to the future !
  • 25. AMSLER TEX E-PROFI system SLUB Analyse SLUB Clasification Hardware Software
  • 26. FABRIC PREVIEW QUALITY DEVELOPMENT LIGHT SCANNER OPEN END iplik efekti RING iplik efekti LİKRA iplik donanımları WinPK® II sistem donanımı Effect- PROFI scanner sitemi AMSLER Effect-PROFI System WİNPK PROGRAM HAS 4 MODULES ; 1- LIGTH, 2- DEVELOPMENT, 3-QUALITY , 4- FABRIC PREVİEW QUALITY MODULE IS INCLUDING YARN SCANNER. COMPLETE PROGRAM IS CALLED ‘’ E_PROFI ‘’
  • 27. YARN SCANNER • AMSLER yarn scanner range is between Ne 1 ve 120 • Blue Light should be continously light before scan the yarn with Laser Scanner • Frist start and time to time , Calibration of Laser Scanner is necessary with Coloured Calibration Sticks THERE IS TWO TYPE YARN SCANNER, * LASER SCANNER * FLAT SCANNER
  • 28.
  • 30. FABRIC IMAGE AFTER CUT AND WASH FACTOR
  • 32. WinPK_Eprofi Fabric Preview Aynı efekt programın farklı renk ve Taşlama ile Yıkama görüntüleri
  • 34. Negative / Positive Slub XSS – Extreme Short
  • 36. This is an example From Yarn to Fabric
  • 37. ABOUT QUALITY AND WORK ON RSM * TWIST * TRAVELLER * CLİP * DRAFT ON RSM - Total Draft - Predraft * DELIVERY SPEED * Lab. CHECKING * USTER TEST RESULT
  • 38. pre draft (usual 1.14) main draft total draft (minimal 20) Roving material and twist and roller- distance and roller- distance toproller Ø, condition, rubber quality, rubber hardnes (shore) Spacer climateapron condition and quality pre draft, main draft, total draft DRAFTING SYSTEM
  • 39. Creation of yarn twist The most important component is the traveler Why do we need twist in the yarn ? YARN TWIST without fibre friction = no yarn strength with fibre friction = yarn strength No twist, no yarn To make the yarn stronger How set the twist of slub yarn ?
  • 40.
  • 41. % 120 % 250 Av. Ne 10 ( KES 341 ) Twist T’’ 13,9 (α=4.4 ) 5,48 Turn/cm Ne 8,2 T’’ 13,9 ( 12,6 ) 5,48 tur /cm ( 5 ) Ne 3,9 T’’ 13,9 ( 8,69 ) 5,48 tur /cm ( 3,5 ) Ne 12 T’’ 13,9 (15,2 ) 5,48 tur/cm ( 6 ) Ne 12 T’’ 13,9 Ne 12 T’’ 13,9 Cotton Mic. 4,4 Cross 874 Cross 284 Cross 284 CrossS 416 CrossS 284 * Av. Ne * Distribution Ne * Twist * The Number of Fiber Cross section (α=4 ) (α=4.85 ) (α=4 ) (α=6 )(α=3,5 )
  • 42. TRAVELLER Wire profile f = flat dr = half round udr = ultra (wide) half round fr = flat / round Traveller shape low - bowed low to medium bowed high - bowed Only for cotton Fine cotton yarns, blends, synthetics and SLUB YARN for cotton, blends, (SLUB YARN) For Core yarn with PES core Acrylics, delicate fibers and CORE SLUB YARN fine cotton and compact yarns for fine to medium cotton yarns for medium to coarse cotton yarns, also blends, synthetics and SLUB YARN For Slubyarn the traveler will be 1 to 3 numbers heavier than normal It depends on slub thickness
  • 43. Front cylinder 100% stop Front cylinder 95% stop XSS recommendation Thin place Basic Slub recommendation For long slub MC / MT recommendation 200 cm 200 cm200 cm Ladder
  • 44. THANK YOU VERY MUCH Mithat ÖZTEKİN Electric-Electronic Engineer Cotton Expert ( Ms )