DART MANIPULATION

DART MANIPULATIONS IN PATTERNS
MS. PEACE AKOSUA TSEKPO
VOCATIONAL AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION
HOME ECONOMICS
SECOND YEAR SECOND SEMESTER
(CLOTHING AND TEXTILES)

DART MANIPULATIONS IN PATTERNS
Dart Manipulations
Dart manipulation in pattern making allows one to move a dart from its
original location to a new location. It is the process of changing the
location of a dart within the pattern frame. Dart manipulations allows you
to move darts around the pattern block or sloper where ever you want
them.
In designing, darts can be manipulated in different ways in the basic design
to come up with new styles or designing. Darts can be transferred,
combined, divided, released, transformed but never eliminated in woven
fabrics.

In designing with darts the basic methods that are employed
are the “pivot” and “slash” methods. Both methods are
based on the principle that each dart;
• has a size
• originates from a seam
• and caters for a bulge.

DART MANIPULATIONS IN PATTERNS CONT,
Pivot Method
In this method of dart manipulation, a pivot point is used as
reference point. In the case of the bodice front, the pivot point is
the bust tip.The sloper is pined at this point and pivoted round in
order to transfer or combine a dart.
The pivot method employs a technique of tracing around the
sloper onto the pattern paper while at the same time pivoting the
sloper around the pivot point to manipulate the dart.

Since it is the outline of the sloper that forms the basis of a pattern, and
should make sure that every seam-line of the sloper is traced.

Slash And Spread Method
Unlike the pivot method the slash method involves the cutting and taping of the
basic pattern in order to manipulate a dart and thereby create a new design.This
results in a work that is not very neat. However, it is more versatile and lends itself
to a lot of dart manipulations which are not that easy with the pivot method. In
using the slash method, a pattern of the basic block is first made.This pattern is
then used in the dart manipulations.To achieve better accuracy in the dart
manipulations the basic pattern to be used is made without seam allowance.

Slash And Spread Method (Ctnd)
In the use of this method for dart manipulations, the focus point is once
again the pivot point of the dart(s) involved. In slashing therefore, the cut
ends on the pivot point but do not go beyond it.
Original location point of new dart at arm hole and slashing

- Closing the old dart so that new dart is formed at armhole
- Trueing the side seam line

Transferring/ Relocating Darts
A dart can be relocated to any point in a garment so long as it
• maintains it original size
• originates from a seam line
• caters for its original bulge by pointing towards it.

General Guidelines For Transferring Darts
Method 1
1. Place a mark on the sloper where dart will be transferred.
2. Pin the sloper at the pivot point i.e. the bust tip for the front bodice. start
tracing around the sloper starting from the base of one arm of the dart being
moved and, in a direction, away from the base of the dart, i.e. trace in a
direction that will not allow you to trace the outline of the dart being moved.
3. Continue tracing until you get to the point on the sloper where a new dart will
be.
4. 4. Stop tracing and turn the sloper around the pivot point to close the dart
being transferred.

General Guidelines For Transferring Darts
Method 1
5. Continue tracing from the point which was marked on the sloper and end where
you started on the pattern paper.
6. Remove the sloper, mark the pivot point and draw in the new dart as follows;
 Bisect the gap that has been created at the point in the seamline where the new
dart is, which a line to the bust tip
 Locate the tip of the new dart on the bisecting line to be the same distance from
the bust tip as was the dart that was moved.
 Create new dart arms by drawing straight lines from the tip of the new dart to
the opening created at the seamline.

General Guidelines For Transferring Darts(CTND)
7. Fold the dart and perfect the seamlines
8. Mark and label your patterns.
Method 2
1. Pin the sloper at the pivot point into a pattern paper and mark the position of
the new dart on the edge of the sloper.
2. Start tracing onto the pattern paper from the point you have marked towards
the center front of the sloper without tracing the dart to be moved.
3. Continue tracing until you have reached the first arm of the dart being
transferred and stop.

(CTND).
4. Close the dart being transferred.
5. Continue tracing until you get to the point on the sloper where you started.
6. Remove your sloper and complete the new dart as in the first method.

Moving Underarm Dart To Mid Armhole
1. Place front bodice sloper on pattern paper and pin at pivot point/ bust tip.
2. Mark with a pencil on your sloper, the new dart position i.e. mid arm hole
3. Start tracing around sloper from point marked at mid armhole, A, through the
shoulder towards center front into the pattern paper. Fig 3.1a
4.Trace around making sure you trace out the waist line dart (remember that is not the
dart you are transferring), until you reach the first arm of the underarm dart, B, (in this
case the arm nearer/towards the waistline seam) then stop. Fig. 3.1a

Moving Underarm Dart To Mid Armhole
5. Pivot the sloper, (by turning it clockwise with the pin still in the bust point) until the
second arm of the underarm dart is superimposed on the point where you stopped. Fig.
3.1b (remember that by doing this you are closing this dart)
6. Continue tracing around the sloper until you reach the point on your sloper where you
started tracing. Stop and mark this as a point, C on your pattern paper. Fig. 3.1b.
7. Remove the pin and sloper from the pattern paper.
8.There is now a gap, A-C, on the pattern paper between where you started and where
you ended.This gap is the opening of the transferred dart in the seam line or the width
of the dart at seam line.)

9. Now you have to go ahead and create the dart arms for the “new” dart.
10. Bisect this gap A-C in the armhole with a line from the bust tip. Fig. 3.1d
11. Establish a point for the tip of the new dart on the bisection line.This new dart
tip should be the same distance from the bust point as the original (underarm) dart
12. Join the openings of the new dart to the tip to create your dart arms. Fig.3.1d.
13. Perfect your seam lines
14. Add seam allowances, markings and labels to complete your pattern

(There is now a gap, A-C, on the pattern paper between where you started and
where you ended.This gap is the opening of the transferred dart in the seam
line or the width of the dart at seam line). Now you have to go ahead and create
the dart arms for the “new” dart.
• Bisect this gap A-C in the armhole with a line from the bust tip. Fig. 3.1d
• Establish a point for the tip of the new dart on the bisection line.This new dart
tip should be the same distance from the bust point as the original
(underarm) dart.
• Join the openings of the new dart to the tip to create your dart arms. Fig. 3.1d.
• Perfect your seam lines
• Add seam allowances, markings and labels to complete your pattern.

(There is now a gap, A-C, on the pattern paper between where you started
and where you ended.This gap is the opening of the transferred dart in
the seam line or the width of the dart at seam line). Now you have to go
ahead and create the dart arms for the “new” dart.
• Bisect this gap A-C in the armhole with a line from the bust tip. Fig. 3.1d
• Establish a point for the tip of the new dart on the bisection line.This
new dart tip should be the same distance from the bust point as the
original (underarm) dart.

Combining Darts
Darts can be combined so long as the darts being combined cater for the same bulge.The front
bodice darts can be combined but the skirt and the bodice darts of the front cannot be
combined. Darts can be combined by:
i) Adding one to another at the position of one of the darts
ii) Adding one to another at a new location, which was not the original location of either
dart.
AddingWaistline Dart Of Front Bodice To Underarm Dart At Underarm Dart
Position
• Place front bodice sloper on pattern paper and pin at pivot point.
• Starting from the arm of the underarm dart near the armhole, A, ( note that this is the point you
are moving the waistline dart to) trace toward the armhole and continue until you get to the
first arm of the waistline dart, B, ( i.e. the one towards C.F) and stop. Fig. 3.3a
• Close the waistline dart. Fig. 3.3b

AddingWaistline Dart Of Front Bodice To Underarm Dart At Underarm Dart
Position (ctnd)
• Continue tracing until you reach the second arm of the underarm dart, C, (i.e.
the one towards the waist seamline and stop. Fig. 3.3b
• Remove the pin and sloper.
• Draw the dart arms of the combined dart. (the dart tip of the combined dart is
about 1.5cm from the bust tip). Fig. 3.3c.
• Fold the dart and perfect the side seam lines
• Complete the pattern.

Combining Waistline Dart and Underarm Dart To Mid Neckline
1. Mark mid neckline on sloper.
2. Place sloper on pattern paper and pin at pivot point.
3. From point marked A, at mid neckline, start tracing around sloper onto pattern paper towards C.F until you
get to the first arm of the waistline dart, B, and stop. Fig…..
4. Pivot to close waistline dart. Fig….
5. Continue tracing till you get to first arm of the underarm dart. Fig…..

• Pivot to close the underarm dart
• Continue tracing till you get to the point on sloper where you began tracing. Fig……
• Remove the pin and the sloper
• There is a gap, A-D, created in the neckline representing the new dart opening at the
neckline. Using this gap as the base of the dart, draw in the dart arms. Fig….
• Fold the dart and perfect the seamlines
• Complete the pattern.

Combining waist dart and underarm dart to underarm dart and waist seamline joints.
1. Pin sloper on pattern paper at pivot point.
2. Start tracing from point on waist and underarm seamlines joint, A, towards the underarm dart, until you reach the
first arm of that dart, B and stop. Fig…..
3. Pivot to close the underarm dart. Fig…..
4. Continue tracing until you get to thr firt arm of the waistline dart, C and stop. Fig….
5. Pivot to close the waistline dart. Fig……

6. Continue tracing until you reach the waistline and underarm seamline joint
D, then stop.
7. Remove pin and sloper from pattern paper.
8.With the gap at the corner of the bodice as a base of the dart, draw in the
arms of the new combined dart. Fig….
9. Fold darts and perfect the underarm and waist seamlines.
10. Complete your pattern.

Dividing Darts
Darts can be divided during dart manipulation in a number of ways depending on the effect(s)
desired in the design.
i) A single dart can be divided at its original position
ii) A single dart can be moved to another position and divided up
iii) Darts can be combined and divided up.
A single dart can be divided up at new positions.
When darts are divided in designing. It is usually to create a desired design effect. However,
darts divided on the same seamline follow some rules in order to create beautiful or dainty
effects.

Dividing the waistline dart at its original position
In dividing the waistline dart at its original position it is easier to just mark in the new darts and then
draw them in.
Figures .... illustrates how to divide the waistline dart
Make a pattern or the sloper on paper and mark points 1 and 2, the positions for the new
darts, on the sloper. Fig ……
Measure the width of the original dart at the waistline and divide into two to give you the
width of each new dart at the base.

Take in half the new dart into the old width and the other half outside. Fg…
Bisect the opening of the new dart to bust circle and mark in the dart tips. Fig.
Draw in the dart arms
Complete your pattern.

Moving The Underarm Dart To The Shoulder Seamline As Two Darts.
1. Mark on the sloper shoulder line the positions of the two new darts. Fig.
3.9a
2. Pin your sloper on the pattern paper at pivot point
3. Start tracing round sloper at the shoulder mark A towards centre front.
Continue tracing till you get to the first arm of the underarm dart B and
stop. Fig. 3.9a
4. Mark the center point of the underarm dart on the pattern paper. Fig.
3.9a
5. Remove your pin and sloper.

Moving The Underarm Dart To The Shoulder Seamline As Two Darts.
5. Trace the shoulder seamline between the two darts, C-D. fig 3.9b
6. Pivot fully close the underarm dart. Fig. 3.9c
7. Continue tracing from the closed dart until you reach the second dart
position of the sloper on the shoulder seam-line and mark that position as E
on your pattern paper. Fig. 3.9c
8. Remove your pin and sloper.

10. Bisect the small seamline CD, between the two dart openings at shoulder,
to the bust point. Fig. 3.9d
11. Draw in your bust circle
12. Draw in the two inner dart arms to be parallel to the bisected seamline to
end on the bust circle. Mark the dart tips on the lines to be about same
distance as the original dart was from the bust point. Fig 3.9e.
13. Complete the darts by drawing in the second darts arms.
14. Close the darts and perfect the shoulder seamlines.
15. Complete the pattern.

The Slash And Spread Method
A general procedure for slash method
1. Make a pattern of the sloper with no seam allowances.
2. Mark the points on the pattern for new dart(s).
3. Draw a line from the mark to the pivot point.
4. Either draw a bisecting line through original dart(s), then slash through all the new lines drawn to the pivot point but
NOT THROUGH.
Or draw a line from the tip of the dart to be manipulated to the pivot point, then slash through one arm
of this dart to the pivot point and also on the lines from the new dart to the pivot point.
5. Close old darts by superimposing one arm of the dart onto the other and taping it down.
6. Place a piece of paper under the new dart opening created and tape.

7. Draw in the new dart as you did in the pivot method.
8. Complete your pattern as usual.
Moving the Underarm Dart To Mid-Shoulder
1. Make a pattern of the sloper with no seam allowance
2. Mark the points on the shoulder where darts is to be relocated. Draw a line from this mark to bust point.
3. Draw another line to bisect the underarm dart to bust point. Fig….
4. Slash through the lines drawn to the bust tip.
5. Close the underarm dart by allowing the ends of the dart arms at seam-line to be superimposed to each other, thus
allowing the shoulder slash open. Fig…
6. Place a piece of pattern paper under the shoulder opening to completely cover it. This opening is the new dart
opening. Fig…..

7. Bisect this opening to the bust tip. Fig…
8. Locate the position of new dart tip on this bisecting line to be the same distance from bust tip as the
original dart.
9. Draw the dart arms by connecting the edges. Fig…
10. Fold the dart and true the seamlines

Moving the underarm dart to the shoulder and dividing it into two equal darts
1. Create a paper pattern of the sloper.
2. Mark the points A, B on shoulder where the two new darts are to be located.
3. Bisect the seamline separating the two points to the bust tip.
4. Using the bisecting line as a reference point draw parallel guidelines for slashing from these points to touch
the bust circle. Then join these lines from bust circle to the bust tip.
5. Draw guidelines through the center of the underarm to the bust tip.

8. Put a piece of pattern paper under the openings created at the shoulder and
maneuver the darts to have equal size then tape down. Fig…..
9. Determine and locate the tips of the darts on the arms next to each other.
Fig…
10. Draw the other dart arms by joining the other opening of the slashes to the
dart tips created with lines. Fig…..
11. Fold the darts and true the seamlines
12. Complete pattern as usual.
6. Slash through all the guidelines for darts drawn to bust tip.
7. Close and tape down the underarm dart.

Shaped Darts
Darts do not always have to follow a straight line. Darts can also be shaped to add interest to a design. This is
one of the areas in which the slash method is very convenient. The shape of the desired dart can be drawn as
the guidelines for slashing. This produces a high degree of accuracy that is difficult to achieve in the pivot
method especially for beginners.
In Fig…. both the underarm and waistline dart have been combined into a curved dart at mid-armhole.
1. Make a copy of a sloper pattern and draw in the shape of the desired new dart at mid-armhole.
2. Draw guidelines for slashing through the underarm and waistline darts.
3. Slash through the guidelines of the original darts and the line drawn at armhole to bust point. Fig…..
4. Close and tape the original darts to create an opening of the desired shape for the new dart.

1. Put a piece of paper under the dart opening and tape down.
2. Locate the new darts tip and draw dart arms to follow the curve of the slash.
3. Draw in the seam allowance for the dart seam.
5. Put a piece of paper under the dart opening and tape down.
6. Locate the new darts tip and draw dart arms to follow the curve of the slash.
7. Draw in the seam allowance for the dart seam.

Transforming Darts into Seam lines
When darts are converted to seamlines, they are called dart equivalent seamlines. Dart
equivalent seamlines provide the same shaping provided by darts.They are therefore
different from ordinary seamlines that do not have darts incorporated in them and
therefore are just ordinary/ added design seamlines.
In fig 3.1 both underarm and waistline darts have been transferred to mid armhole and
converted to a dart equivalent seam-line which is joined at its tip by a design line which
cuts centre frint at a right angle.
Creating a pattern
1. Transfer both underarm and waistline darts to mid-arm whole.
2. Join the tip of the new dart to bust point.

3. Square a design line from C.E to bust tip and put in notches and grain lines.Then
create a smooth line from dart opening through a dart tip to bust point.
4. Cut on design line through bust point to dart openings at armhole.This will separate
the pattern in two pieces.
5. Mark and label the pattern.

Creating the Basic Princess Line
The princess line is a line that incorporates the waistline dart and the underarm
dart and usually runs from armhole area, the shoulder or neckline through the
bust tip to the waistline and goes through to hemline if the garment includes the
skirt section.
The basic princess line is a seamline that runs from shoulder through the bust
tip to waistline in a bodice and through to the hemline in a full dress. It
incorporates the bodice darts and also the skirt darts in the sheath dress. It is
therefore a dart equivalent seamline.

Creating the Basic Princess Line
Bodice Front Pattern
• Trace the outline of the sloper without tracing out the waistline darts but
marking its opening
• Draw a straight line from the opening of the waistline dart arm nearest to center
front through bust point to the shoulder.

• Transfer the underarm dart to shoulder at the line from waistline.
• Draw in the bust circle.
• Bisect the dart openings at both the shoulder and waistline to the bust
tip.

6. Draw lines from the dart openings nearest the side seam, to touch the
dart bisecting lines at bust circle. Connect theses dart arms to bust point
with a smooth curve.
7. Put in notches on dart arms at bust point, and on the bust circle.
8. Now you are ready to separate your pattern pieces. But before cutting
draw in grainlines on both pattern pieces to be parallel to C.F.
9. Now cut along the seamlines.

The Basic Princess Line Bodice Back
Make a paper pattern of the sloper
• Locate the pivot point for the two darts
• Draw a line from the waistline dart opening nearest center front through
pivot point to shoulder. Fig.3.3a
• Shift the shoulder dart to new line and draw second dart arms through the
original dart tips to cross line from shoulder to waist.
• Create a smooth curve where they cross.
• Close the darts and put notches

The Basic Princess Line Bodice Back (ctnd)
• Open the darts and draw in smooth curves at their tips.
• Put in grain-lines in both middle and side pattern pieces.
• Cut the pattern pieces along the dart arms to separate the pieces
• Label the pattern and complete as desired.

Dart Equivalent Fullness
Just as darts can be transformed into seamlines they can also be
changed into different types of fullness.The amount of fullness seen in
such a garment is determined by the design and it ranges from that
which is made of the dart alone to those that have extra fullness added
beyond that which the dart provides.
Note: Fullness is added to a design by slashing and spreading the pattern
at the area where the fullness is desired.Slashing however always starts
from a seamline.It either ends on another seamline or goes through
another seamline.It should never end in the middle of a pattern.

Incorporating Darts Into Gather
When darts are converted into gathers, they are called dart equivalent
gather. For design purposes however more fullness as gathers can be
included at the area of the dart equivalent gathers.There are also
gathers which have nothing to do with a dart. Generally, there are three
types of gathers that can be found in a garment, namely;
• Dart equivalent gathers only
• Dart equivalent gathers plus added fullness
• Added fullness only.

Incorporating Darts Into Gather (ctnd)
Remember dart equivalents always follow the principles of darts, as such
they bring about the differences in the three types of gathers outlined.
Now let’s look at how to recognize these gathers in designs and how they
can be translated into paper patterns.

Dart equivalent gathers only
In dart equivalent gathers the dart is not stitched in as a triangular fold. It is
rather controlled as fullness, in the form of gathers at the wide end of the dart
since it is only the dart that is converted to gathers the fullness the amount of
fullness realized is small and is concentrated in the area of the dart. Being a
dart equivalent, all the folds created have their tips pointing towards the bust
circle.

In the dart equivalent gathers only shown in Fig.4.5 the underarm dart has
been combined with the waistline dart at the waistline.The combined dart is
then converted to the gathers as shown in fig. 3.21a. the limits of the
gathering goes beyond the dart opening to allowing the length of the
waistline to be maintained since gathers cannot be pulled to nothing as is
done in stitching a dart.

Dart equivalent gathers plus added fullness
In this type of design, the dart is converted to gathers. However, the design
requires more fullness than provided by the dart. Slashing and spreading the
pattern therefore incorporates the extra fullness required by the design.The
extent and amount of the folds in the design determine where the slash goes
to and also the amount of spread.

Dart equivalent gathers plus added fullness (ctnd)
Note: to slash a pattern for spreading,the slashing should start at the point
that will be spread and end on a seam-line.Remember that after spreading
the pattern has to lie flat without a fold.Slashing therefore cannot end in
the middle of the pattern.

Gathers that are added fullness only
In designs that the gathers is added fullness only, no dart is incorporated
in the fullness. the fullness is only a style feature. In such designs usually
there is no dart originally at the seamlines where the gathers emerge
from.

Gathers that are added fullness only
In fig 3.7 the design is a princess line from mid-shoulder to waist.There is however
another design seamline from shoulder point running parallel to the princess
seamline down to waistline.The piece between the two seamlines, B (fig 3.7a) is then
slashed and spread to be gathered during construction.
Note: that the piece B can also be straight piece,which will be gathered to take the
shape of the curves.
You have to look at the design carefully and do a proper analysis before on to make a
pattern.A critical and well-done analysis is the first step to making the correct pattern
for a given design.Where a gathers is a result of added fullness only,then the darts
should be somewhere in the design as darts,darts equivalents or released darts.

Released Darts
Darts can be left unstitched in garments.When a dart is not stitched- in as a dart
neither is it converted to any other form it is said that the dart has been released.When
darts are released in a garment, the garment looks loose and does not fit closely to the
curves of the body. Once again the clue is analysing the design to know what has been
done with the darts and also looking critically at the hang of the garment.
In pattern making, when a dart is released, it has to be shown that the dart lines will not
be stitched in. this is indicated on the pattern by crossing out the dart lines.
Darts can be fully released or partially released.When darts are fully released no part of the
dart is stitched in (fig.3 26). In partially released darts however part of the dart is stitched in.

Released Darts (ctnd)
Usually it is the wide end of the dart that is stitched in leaving the tip(s)
unstitched (fig 3.27). there is also another form of partially released darts
in which the size of the dart is reduced although it is stitched its whole
length. Fig. 3.28

In fig 3.8 the darts are combined at waistline and the new dart is fully released.
In fig 3.9, the underarm and waistline darts are combined at waistline.The new
dart is then partially released.
In Fig 3.10, the front bodice darts are combined at waistline but the resultant
dart is partially released by reducing the dart size by half.

References
- Gavor et al. clothing and textiles for schools and colleges,
Adwinsa Publications (GH) Ltd (2014), pg 140-146.
- Modesta E. Gavor. Flat pattern Designing forWomen, Adwinsa
Publications (GH) Ltd (2011).

DART MANIPULATION

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