EMBROIDERY IN GUIPURE (LACE): Guipure, also known as Chemical Embroidery is a machine-made lace with a heavy gimp motif connected by bars and without mesh grounds. The process involves running a design on a fabric, which is removed after the fabric is unspanned so that nothing but the stitch is left.
• Embroidery is the handicraft of decorating fabric
or other materials with needle and thread.
• Experts believe that this craft made on cloth lasts
long and makes the fabric look attractive .
Types Of Embroidery
• Embroidery is
technique, era or
• This type of
the stitching lines of
the fabric which
branch off in different
• Cut work is the
technique of cutting
small areas of fabric
• It consists of
with back stitching.
Thread defined Embroidery Types
• The thread used in
Embroidery defines its
• Artists use fibers
ranging from silk to
wool in their projects.
• When you want to
produce a smooth,
shiny texture use silk
• Using silk ribbon
embroidery gives a
• Embroidery which are
rooted in folk art
traditions are often
done in wool threads.
• Wool threads are used
in Jacobean or crewel
• Artisans produce
floss, including white
work, black work,
counted cross stitch.
• Huckaback is a fabric
with a raised weave
• One of the forms of
was Crewel Work.
• It is a form of surface
•Stitches play an important role in the way
an embroidery might look.
•Embroidery is therefore classified
according to the stitches used in it.
•Artists may make use of various stitches
according to the desired outlook and the
fabric being used.
• Machine embroidery uses several basic stitch types that can be
varied and manipulated to produce a wide variety of effects.
• A design must contain more then one stitch for design
• Types of Embroidery stitch
These are small, closely aligned stitches that follow a
tight back-and-forth pattern.
They are used for edges and reinforcement for
scallops, finishing edges of eyelet embroidery, and so
These are wider with the same back-and-forth
configuration and less tension.
Often called satin stitches . They create dramatic
textured effect when used in different directions.
Blatt stitches requires more stitches per inch
unless an underlay is used to prevent gapping.
This form a design with one thickness of thread.They can be
placed in any direction and may or may not be covered by
Running stitches are often used for shading and connecting
parts of a design . Changing stitch direction changes the way
light reflects off the thread and creates an interesting effect.
Many combination of these are used by the digitizer in
creating the embroidered design.
This forms loops on the surface of the fabric from a
single thread source.
• These are also known as Moss stitch.
• It is formed by the chain-stitch machine with a drop stitch or loop
formation on the face of the pieces goods.
• Moss stitch are used to fill and provide the three-dimensional
appearance to the design.
• They are usually with heavier wool or acrylic yarn and are
commonly used on award letters.
• This stitch attach to the fabric surface by monofilament
thread instead of being pulled through the fabric.
• Looping stitches are used to add three-dimensional look
• These stitches require much heavier yarn than other
Embroidery is classified into several variations depending on
production methods and materials used. Common varieties
• Automatic Color Change
• Embroidery on Net
The stitching is performed on the fabric. The fabric
remains on the final product .It’s a continuous
pattern which covers the whole width and length of
the goods being embroidered from selvage to
selvage, with a similar design.
Guipure, also known as Chemical Embroidery.The
process involves running a design on a fabric, which is
removed after the fabric is unspanned so that nothing
but the stitch is left.
Embroidery on net
The water-soluble fabric is lapped over the net, on
which the stitching is performed. Later the water-
soluble fabric is dissolved allowing the
embroidered stitching and the net to remain.
Multi-color embroidery produced by a
special type of machine called •Color
Change Machine•, which enables the
needles for different colors to work in turn.
• In free-motion machine embroidery, embroidered designs are
created by using a basic zigzag sewing machine.
• As it is used primarily for tailoring, this type of machine lacks
the automated features of a specialized machine.
• To create free-motion machine embroidery, the embroiderer
runs the machine and skillfully moves tightly hooped fabric
under the needle to create a design.
• The operator lowers or covers the "feed dogs" or machine teeth
and moves the fabric manually.
• The operator develops the embroidery manually, using the
machine's settings for running stitch and fancier built-in
• In this way, the stitches form an image onto a piece of fabric.
An embroiderer can produce a filled-in effect by sewing many
parallel rows of straight stitching. A machine's zigzag stitch
can create thicker lines within a design or be used to create a
• Many quilters and fabric artists use a process called thread
drawing (or thread painting) to create embellishments on their
projects or to create textile art.
• Most modern embroidery machines are computer controlled
and specifically engineered for embroidery.
• Industrial and commercial embroidery machines and
combination sewing-embroidery machines have a hooping or
framing system that holds the framed area of fabric taut under
the sewing needle and moves it automatically to create a
design from a pre-programmed digital embroidery pattern.
• Depending on its capabilities, the machine will require varying
degrees of user input to read and sew embroidery designs.
• Single-head Embroidery machine are similar to basic lockstitch
• They are developed for producing small orders and are used for
• Single –head machine are most often used for custom work and
• They may be manually operated or computer controlled.
• Manually operated machine depend on skilled operators to
position and manipulate material under the needle.
• Computerized Embroidery machines are designed to stitch the
selected design and all the operator must do is place the
SINGLEHEAD EMBROIDERY MACHINE
• Technology has expanded the use of single head Embroidery
• A computer network can interface and control multiple single-
head machines so that each machine can run completely
different embroidery program at the same time.
• This allows manufacturer to customize their services and
produce very small order as needed by their customer .
• For example, to stitch a small order of three on a large
multihead machine wastes capacity that could better be used
for large orders.
• The largest market for single-head machines is short-run
corporate identity (golf and polo shirts, caps and other
• Some mid-size uniform customers, such as hospitals and
restaurant chains, try to add their own embroidery equipment
in-house. For the most part, the store whose primary
customers are individuals and groups, customization requests
are often farmed out.
• By adding tools such as the SWF-1501C Compact Automatic
Embroidery Machine, or the Advance 1501C Professional
Machine at a better price and warranty, you can have the
freedom to provide individual units for samples, even small
• Mixing digital direct-to-garment printing (DTG) with
embroidery, spangles and rhinestones is a fast growing fashion
trend. A variety of different decoration styles can set your
shop apart from the crowd.
• Another advantage is price, Startup costs are significantly
lower with the single-head over multi-headed machines,
making it an affordable way to expand your product line.
• Space is also an issue. A compact needle
machine accommodates up to 100 designs and
has a top speed of 1,200 stitches per minute
but takes up only 2.5’x2.5′ of space.
• It is not suitable for large orders and evergreen
• Multi-head embroidery machine is similar to single-head
embroidery machine except they contain two or more heads
that stitch the same pattern simultaneously.
• Smaller areas are best Embroidered with more close-set heads
,larger patterns require wider needle range and fewer heads.
• Border machine provides the more flexibility , because close-
sets hand can be space closed together and alternate heads can
be coupled to allow stitching of a wider pattern.
• With multi-head machines, garments are individually hoped
and inserted horizontally under each head.
• Each head utilizes 1 to 6 needles and up to 6 colors in stitching
• Machine are purchase with specific number of heads.
• The optimal number of heads is generally dependant on the
firm’s average order size, average number of stitches per
design, and size of the area to be stitched.
• Higher stitch count are more efficiently produced on machines
with more heads.
• Loading time , which entails inserting the fabric or garment
component under the machine head, should be less then
stitching time if the operation is to be productive.
• More heads requires more loading time ,and for design with a
lower stitch count , there is more ideal time during the loading
• If you find that your order is for larger designs that take
longer time to sew, a larger system will be better.
• An extended run time is balanced out by the increased
setup time, so more heads will be better.
• A two-head machine could be a perfect fit for your
• You can save time on elaborate embroidery involving
high stitch counts by putting them on an Advancé 4 Head
Professional Embroidery Machine as opposed to a single-
head machine, or possibly even a 6 head machine.
• It is not suitable for small orders due to high
productivity compare to the single head
• Machine is very expensive so not
recommended for a small scale company
having less orders.
• Schiffli Embroidery machine are large , loomlike machines
used to stitch designs on length of piece goods.
• They are used to embroider piece goods ,produce emblems ,
and make novelty and venise lace trims.
• Most machine operates with two frames that hold two fabric
length of 10,15 and 21 yards that span the frames which are
mounted vertically , have controlled vertical and horizontal
movement directed by punched tape or a computer disk.
• Action of some types of schiffli machines are controlled by an
automat , which is a system of rods ,cams ,and levers used to
read punched tapes and direct Embroidery frames in forming
• Needle are mounted on two horizontal fixed tracks that span
the length of the frames.
• Needle bar moves needle horizontally in and out of piece in
goods in synchronization with frame movement.
• Needles are pushed into frame piece goods and retracted for
• A stitched Pattern evolves from frame movement.
• Borers, which puncture fabric and push aside yarns prior to
stiching are mounted directly below the needle bars to make
eyelet fabrics and trims.
• Schiffli Embroidered fabric may experience a reduction in
yardage because of the heavy concentration of stitches.
• Because of complexity, size and cost of schiffli equipment and
the specialized training and expertise required to operate it,
most apparel firm use contractor that specialise in schiffli
• Fabrics can be sent to contractors to embroider, or Embroider
trims can be special ordered.
Some Embroidery Machine
Barudan - Japan
Brother - Japan
ButterFly - China
Happy - Japan
Melco - USA
SWF - Korea
Tajima - Japan
Toyota - Japan
ZSK - Germany
• The DB x K5 needle system has established itself worldwide
in machine embroidery.
• The eye of the needle in the DB x K5 system is 1–2 needle
sizes larger than usual.
• A size 70 needle therefore has the eye of a size 80 or 90
• The benefits are:
– a smaller diameter needle may be selected; it protects the
– better protection for the embroidery thread as there is more
room in the eye
– needle is easier to thread
• The needle size indicates the diameter of the part of the needle
that penetrates the material, given in mm/100.
• A size 70 needle therefore has a diameter of 0.7 mm
– needle sizes of between 55 and about 120 may be used on
conventional embroidery machines.
• The needle point is selected according to the embroidery
application. The small ball point may be used as a starting
• Real cutting points (SD or DH needle points) are avoided
during machine embroidery to prevent perforation of the
• The following table gives a guide for selecting points and
sizes. Exceptions are possible.
• Backing has the job of enabling sharp-contoured embroidery
free from deformation due to pulling
• It gives the embroidery base the necessary dimensional
stability in conjunction with the underlay stitching
• It may be removed after the embroidery process by tearing,
cutting away or dissolving
• For materials with a nap, the backing can be supported by a
soluble film on the top of the embroidered item. The stitches
are prevented from sinking into the nap by a water- or heat-
soluble backing or a suitable film
Fine knitwear, very fine woven
Cut away backing, in order to
avoid material damages while
tearing away the backing
Woven fabric, stable knitwear Tear away backing
embroideries which are visible
as well from the reverse side
Water- or heat soluble backing
for the purpose of complete
Terry cloth, velvet, velours Tear or cut away backing +
water-soluble film on the top
The following table is given as a guide for the application of
different types of backing.
CommonReasons for Sewing &Embroidery
Machines to Malfunction
• Needle Breaks
• Loops on top or bottom of fabric during sewing
• Upper thread breaks
• Lower thread breaks
• Skips stitches
• Machine runs slow and/or noisy
• Material tends to Pucker during Sewing Embroidering
• Design Out Of Register
• Needle Cuts or Holes in Garments