16. Fitted kimono sleeves
When the angle of the shoulder/sleeve seam drops and he sleeve curve moves up close
to the underarm, a closer fitting sleeve with no underarm wrinkles is the result. Also,
arm movement is drastically restricted. The strain that occurs at the underarm seam
when the arm is raised requires substantial reinforcement. A gusset which is diamond-
shaped inset it on the bias of a fashion fabric is most often inserted at underarm to
increase freedom pf movement and comfort. Gussets can be cut separately or designed
as extension of the garment and sleeve area. Gussets must be set carefully into a
reinforced slash on the front and back of the bodice. Accuracy is critical when setting
gussets so that the two sections in the completed garment match.