This document provides information about different types of stitches used in clothing. It discusses 6 classes of stitches: 1) Single thread chain stitch (Class 100), 2) Hand stitch (Class 200), 3) Lock stitch (Class 300), 4) Multi-thread chain stitch (Class 400), 5) Overlock or overedge neatening (Class 500), and 6) Covering chain stitch (Class 600). Each class is explained in 1-2 paragraphs, outlining the key features and uses of example stitch types within each class. The document serves as a reference for various industrial sewing techniques.

1. GARMENT EXPORT
MERCHANDISING
MANAGEMENT

2. PREPARED BY
NAME – ABHIJEET CHAKRABORTY.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY,NEW DELHI.
DEPARTMENT- FACULTY OF MANAGEMENT
STUDIES.
BATCH- GEMM (2018/19)
EMAIL- abhijeetchakraborty827@gmail.com

4. Stitch and seam are related to each other because
seam cannot made without stitch and vice versa.
Stitch is the unit of seam made by three principle i.e.
interlooping , intralooping , interlacing to join two
ply of fabric. Stitch are very important in apparel
making. It is not possible to make a single garment
without stitch.

5. DIFFERENT TYPES OF STITCHES
USED IN CLOTHING
 Types of stitches
1) Stitch class-100 (Single thread chain stitch)
2) Stitch class-200 (Hand stitch)
3) Stitch class-300 (Lock stitch)
4) Stitch class-400 (Multi-thread chain stitch)
5) Stitch clsss-500 (Over lock or over edge neatening)
6) Stitch class-600 (Covering chain stitch)

6. STITCH CLASS-100
(SINGLE THREAD CHAIN STITCH)
In this stitch, one needle thread is passed
through the fabric, from needle loop and is
secured by the next loop formed by the same
thread.
Only one needle thread is used for making this
stitch & can easily produce at high speed using
one needle.
Chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lock
stitch.
If one unit is break then whole stitch is open.

7. TYPES OF CHAIN STITCH
Sub class 101- It is used for basting operations in tailored men’s wear and
women’s wear.
 E.g. – Blazer components.
Sub class 103- Blind stitch.
Feature- one side is visible and other side is like chain.
Use- Bottom heaming of pants

8. 2. STITCH CLASS-200
(HAND STITCH)
Stitch under this class are also
produced with single thread by the
use of special type of sewing
machine.
This stitch cannot be produced for
longer length sewing.
Uses for stitch costly garments.
Hand stitching is a time consuming.
It needs high skill for good
appearance.

9. 3. STITCH CLASS-300
(LOCK STITCH)
It required two types of sewing
thread.
It is widely used in garments
factory.
Yarn consumption are
comparatively less.
Both sides are same.
It is difficult to pick up.
Less extensibility.

10. STITCH TYPE 301
 Lockstitch, has a needle thread and a bobbin
thread.
 Stitch is formed by a needle thread introduced
from one side of the material interlacing with an
bobbin thread.
The needle & bobbin thread cross over in the
middle of the fabric.
Excellent seam security.
Poor extension.
Lower productivity.
N
B

11. STITCH TYPES 301
N
B
LOCK STITCH

12. STITCH TYPE 304
 Lockstitch zig zag, has a needle thread and a
bobbin thread.
 Has same benefits as 301 viz:
 security of seam
 Reversibility
 wont unravel easy
 Has better extension due to the zig zag
configuration.
 Used mostly on lingerie , foundation wear and
underwear, where a secure seam with good
extension is required.
N
B
ZIG ZAG
LOCKSTITCH

13. 4. STITCH CLASS-400
MULTI THREAD CHAIN STITCH
One or more thread is used.
One group is called upper thread and
another group is called looper thread.
Security of this stitch is higher than
lock stitch about 30%.
It is widely use for making knitted
garments.

14. Two thread chainstitch - one needle
thread and one looper thread.
Needle thread loop is interconnected
with two loops of one underthread.
Higher productivity.
Seam security not as good as lock
stitch.
Used for joining trouser panels, riser
seams and felled seams in jeans.
N
L

15. STITCH TYPE-406
COVER SEAM STITCH
(2 NEEDLE & 1 LOOPER THREAD)
Cover seam stitch, has 2 needle and 1
looper thread.
 Excellent extention, easy to unravel.
Used for :
 T shirts/knits sleeves and bottom hems.
 stitching of belt loops in jeans & trousers.
Gives very good extension, and is mostly
used to cover a raw edge in the fabric after
the fabric has been hemmed etc.
N1
N2
L

16. 5. STITCH CLASS-500
(OVERLOCK OR OVER EDGE NEATENING)
It is required for more than two threads.
One group is called upper thread and
another group is called looper thread.
It has good preventing power and edge
protection.
It is used for making knitted garments.
It is also used decorative purpose.
It is only use din the edge of the fabric

17.  It has 2 needle and 2 looper threads.
Very good extension, will not unravel easy.
Side seams, join panels, attach sleeves, join
shoulders etc. on knitted fabrics, tee shirts,
polos.
512 is more secure than 504(3 thread
overlock) but less secure than 516 (5
thread safety stitch)
N1 N2
L1
L2

18. Three or more sewing thread are used to
make this stitch.
Three group of sewing thread are used.
Such as needle, looper and covering thread.
Sewing thread consumption is very high.
This type of stitch are used to join side by
side of fabric without increasing thickness.
This stitch are used for sewing under wear
for attaching lace, braid, elastic etc.

19. Utilizes 3 needle threads, one
looper and one cover thread.
Used in knitwear, lingerie & under
garments.
High seam elasticity.
Flat, comfortable seams - ideal for
'next to skin' sewing applications.
Can also be used as a decorative
seam.
Very high thread consumption.
S
N1
N2
N3
L