The document summarizes the guidelines for herbal cosmetics by the COSMOS certification. COSMOS sets standards for organic and natural cosmetics in Europe. The guidelines cover ingredients, product composition, manufacturing, packaging, labeling and certification requirements. Products must meet criteria for the origin and processing of ingredients, and use of preservatives is allowed to prevent microbial growth and maintain product safety and shelf life. The document provides examples of preservatives commonly used in cosmetic products like lipsticks, toothpastes, shampoos and creams.

1. Under the guidance of,
Dr. S. Janaki Devi
Presented by
Shubham Yadav (VP21PHAR0100006)
Review of Guidelines for herbal cosmetics by private
bodies like COSMOS with respect to Preservatives

2. CONTENTS
• Introduction of COSMOS
• Objectives of COSMOS
• Documents of COSMOS
• Origin and processing of ingredients
• Composition of total product
• Storage, manufacturing and packaging
• Environmental management
• Labelling and communication
• Certification
• Conclusion

3. CONTENTS-II
• What are Preservatives?
• Advantages and Disadvantages of Preservatives
• Ideal Characteristics of Preservatives
• Need of Preservatives
• Classification of Preservatives
• Examples of Preservatives used in Cosmetics
• Herbal Cosmetic Products Examples according to COSMOS
• Conclusion

4. INTRODUCTION
• COSMOS stands for Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard.
• Sets certification requirements for organic and natural cosmetics products in
Europe.
• The standard is recognized globally by the cosmetics industry.
• The five cosmos members are:
• BDIH (Germany)
• Cosmebio & Ecocert Greenlife SAS (France)
• ICEA (Italy)
• Soil Association (Great Britain)

5. OBJECTIVES OF COSMOS
• The cosmos-standard applies to cosmetic products that are marketed as organic
or natural. Its guiding principles are to:
• Promote the use of products from organic agriculture, and respect biodiversity.
• Use natural resources, and respect the environment.
• Use processing and manufacturing that are clean and respectful of human
health and the environment.
• Integrate and develop the concept of “Green Chemistry”.
Documents involved in COSMOS
1. COSMOS-standard
2. COSMOS Technical Guide- which contains additional interpretation and
explanation related to COSMOS standard.
3. COSMOS Labelling Guide
4. COSMOS Control Manual – Certification and Accreditation Requirements

6. •This standard applies to cosmetic products
marketed as organic or natural and cosmetic
ingredients with organic content. To be certified
these products must comply with the defined
criteria on:
1. Origin and processing of ingredients
2. Composition of total product
3. Storage, manufacturing and packaging
4. Environmental management
5. Labelling and communication
6. Certification.

7. ORIGIN AND PROCESSING OF INGREDIENTS
According to COSMOS standards, the ingredients of a cosmetic product are
classified in five categories:
 Water
 Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin
 Physically processed agro-ingredients
 Chemically processed agro-ingredients
 Other ingredients.
1. Water (Solvent)-
The water used must comply with hygienic standards (CFU<100/ml).
Type of water used- potable water, spring water, water obtained by osmosis,
distilled water and sea water.
Other solvents- ethyl alcohol, glycerine, vegetable oils, honey, supercritical CO2.
Water/solvent may be treated with the physical processes allowed in Appendix I.

8. 2. Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin-
Minerals may be used as long as they are obtained without intentional
chemical modification and preferably from environment.
Ingredients of mineral origin may be used only if they are listed in
Appendix IV.
INCI Names Chemical Name Source
Aluminium Hydroxide Aluminium Hydroxide Bauxite
Alumina Aluminium Oxide Clay
Calcium Sulfate Calcium Sulphate Gypsum
Sodium Borate Sodium Borate Borax
Sodium Carbonate Sodium Carbonate Soda
Sodium Fluoride Sodium Fluoride Sea water, spring water

9. 3. Physically processed agro-ingredients
Included is any physically processed product of plant, animal, or microbial origin
that complies with the conditions below.
• Only primary raw materials of plants, animals or microbial origin that have
been extracted using the physical processes allowed in Appendix I.
• Only primary raw materials that respect the requirements of the Convention of
International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES)
are allowed.
It is forbidden to use:
• Plants, plants materials and microorganisms that have been genetically
modified.
• Primary raw materials extracted from living or slaughtered animals.
It is allowed to use ingredients of animal origin as long as:
• They are produced by animals but are not a part of the animal.
• They do not entail the death of the animal concerned, and
• They have been obtained using only the processes listed in Appendix I.

10. APPENDIX I: PHYSICAL PROCESSES ALLOWED
• ABSORPTION STANDARD
• BLEACHING
• BLENDING
• CENTRIFUGING
• EXTRACTION
• PRESSURE
• DRYING (by evaporation/natural under sun)
• DISTILLATION
• EXTRACTION (steam)
• FILTRATION and
• PURIFICATION (ultra filtration, dialysis, crystallisation)
• FREEZING
• GRINDING
• INFUSION
• LYPOPHILIZATION
• MACERATION
• PERCOLATION
• ROASTING
• CRUSHING
• STERILISATION

11.  It is allowed to use ingredients of animal origin as long as:
• They are produced by animals but are not a part of the animal.
• They do not entail the death of the animal concerned,
• They have been obtained using only the processes listed in Appendix II.
4. Chemically processed agro-ingredients
Any chemically processed product of plant, animal, or microbial origin that satisfy
the conditions below
• Any raw materials that fulfil the requirements of the International Trade in
Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) are allowed to be
used.
5. Other Ingredients
• Certain other ingredients are allowed as long as there are no effective natural
alternatives available to ensure the safety of consumers or efficacy of the product.
Chemically processed agro-ingredients may contain mineral moieties.
Note- alcohol and other by-products of fermentation are chemically processed agro-
ingredients.

12. APPENDIX II: CHEMICAL
PROCESSES ALLOWED
• ALKYLATION
• BIOTECHNOLOGY PROCESSES
• CALCINATION of plants residues
• ESTERIFICATION
• ETHERIFICATION
• HYDRATION
• HYDROLYSIS
• IONIC EXCHANGE
• OXYDIZATION/REDUCTION
• SAPONIFICATION
APPENDIX III: PROCESSES
NOT ALLOWED
• ALKOXYLATION using ethylene
oxide, propylene oxide or other
alkylene oxides.
• BLEACHING
• IONISING RADIATION
• TREATMENTS WITH ethylene
oxide
• TREATMENTS using mercury

13. COMPOSITION OF TOTAL PRODUCT
The COSMOS standard covers two levels for finished products:
• Cosmetic products under organic certification.
• Cosmetic products under natural certification.
1. Rules for Cosmetic Products Under Organic Certification
a) Ingredients
• At least 95% of the physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic.
• The remaining physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic if
they are listed in Appendix VI.
• The chemically processed agro-ingredients listed in Appendix VII must be
organic.
b) Total Product
• At least 20% of the total product must be organic.

14. Common Name INCI Name
Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Cow’s Milk Lac
Honey Mel
Lemon Citrus Limon Oil
Soya Glycine Soya Oil
APPENDIX VI: PHYSICALLY PROCESSED AGRO-INGRDIENTS
THAT MUST BE ORGANIC
INCI Name Chemical Name
Ethanol, ethyl alcohol, alcohol Ethyl Alcohol
APPENDIX VII: CHEMICALLY PROCESSED AGRO-
INGREDIENTS THAT MUST BE MADE FROM ORGANIC ORIGIN

15. 2. Rules for Cosmetic Products Under Natural Certification
• There is no requirement to use a minimum level of organic ingredients
(however, see 10.3 for requirements for how organic ingredients can be
identified on the product labels).
• Base formulas with no organic content (e.g., shampoo bases, soap bases)
cannot go through the normal Approval process.
• Instead, they must be certified under COSMOS NATURAL certification
(therefore including an on-site inspection).

16. STORAGE, MANUFACTURING AND PACKAGING
1. Storage
Storage areas must be clearly labelled to avoid any confusion or risk to the
integrity of the products.
2. Manufacturing
Different manufacturing processes must be separated to prevent
contamination of organic or natural ingredients.
There must be a Quality Control System which includes:
• Complete traceability of ingredients and final products
• Manufacturing procedures throughout all stages
• Ingredient and product testing, and
• Analysis, manufacturing and storage records.

17. 3. Packaging
Primary and secondary packaging components must meet the criteria
below. Accessories sold with products, such as brushes, applicators or
technical parts, do not have to comply.
a) To minimize the direct and indirect environmental impacts of packaging
during its life cycle, it is required to:
• Minimise the amount of material used.
• Maximise the amount of material that can be reused or recycled, and
• Use materials with recycled content if possible.
b) All packaging materials used must be on the list of accepted materials as
listed in Appendix IX.

18. APPENDIX IX: PACKAGING MATERIALS
List of accepted materials
• CA – Cellulose Acetate
• Cellulose
• Ceramic
• Glass
• Metals such as Aluminium, Iron, Stainless
Steel
• Paper/Cardboard
• PE – Polyethylene
• PET – Polyethylene Terephthalate
• PETG – Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol
• PLA – Polylactic Acid
• PP – Polypropylene
• Rubber (from natural origin)
• Wood
• Any other material 100% from natural origin
Foam of packaging:
• Bottle
• Jar
• Tube
• Cap
• Sachets
• Boxes.

19. c) It is forbidden to use these materials in packaging:
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and other chlorinated plastics
• Polystyrene and other plastics containing styrene
d) Only the following propulsive gases may be used:
• Air
• Oxygen
• Nitrogen
• Carbon dioxide
• Argon.

20. ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT
1. Environmental management plan
a) An environmental management plan must be put in place which
addresses the whole manufacturing process and all the residual
products and waste resulting from this. It must be implemented
effectively.
b) A waste management plan must be put in place which addresses
manufacturing waste, including gaseous, liquid, and solid waste. This
plan must aim to reduce, reuse and recycle waste products on an
efficient and rational basis.
2. Cleaning and Hygiene
• Following disinfectants are used:
a) Isopropyl Alcohol
b) Amphoteric Surfactants
c) Hydrogen Peroxide

21. LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION
• There are four main certification signatures that comprise the COSMOS-
standard:
1. COSMOS ORGANIC (Products under Organic Certification)
2. COSMOS NATURAL (Products under Natural Certification)
3. COSMOS CERTIFIED (Ingredients with Organic Content)
4. COSMOS APPROVED (Raw Materials with No Organic Content)

22. CERTIFICATION AND APPROVAL OF PRODUCT LABELLING
Approval of Product Specification
Submission of Proposed Labelling Application
Provisional Approval is given to labelling
Final Approval of labelling by Certification Body (BDIH and ECOCERT)
Printing the label
Manufacturer needs to make changes to product
They must be notified to certification body
Wait for final approval
Certification process is completed
Product can be launched

23. PRESERVATIVES
• Preservative is a substance or chemical that is added to cosmetic product
to prevent decomposition by microbial growth or by undesirable chemical
changes.
• These are antimicrobial agents which maintains microbiological safety of
cosmetics.
• Mechanism of action of preservatives:
• Most preservatives when come in contact with the cell membrane and cell
wall fractions.
• They react with proteins, disrupt microbial cell protection structure or
interfere with cell and affect the normal cell growth.

24. • ADVANTAGES OF PRESERVATIVES
1. They prevent the growth of bacteria and spoilage.
2. Keep the product fresh for some time.
3. They improve the appearance of cosmetic products.
4. Activity increased by combination of esters.
• DISADVANTAGES OF PRESERVATIVES
1. Can be toxic in larger concentration.
2. Sometimes interacts with formulation.
3. Incompatible with some proteins.
4. Activity reduced by non-ionic emulsifiers.

25. IDEAL CHARACTERISTICS OF PRESERVATIVES
• The ideal characteristics of preservatives are:
• Compatible with drug components
• Odorless
• Cost-effective
• Tasteless
• Effective
• Stable
• Highly soluble
• Non-toxic and non-reactive

26. NEED OF PRESERVATIVES
• To prevent spoilage of cosmetic products.
• There are two main reasons for spoilage of cosmetics:
1. Oxidation of oils and fats.
2. Microbial growth.
• Product stabilization.
• Increase shelf life of product.
• Water promotes growth of micro-organisms so there is need of
preservative in anhydrous cosmetic preparation.

27. CLASSIFICATION OF PRESERVATIVES
Preservative
On the basis of mechanism of action On the basis of source
Antioxidants Antimicrobial agents Chelating agents Natural Synthetic
Benzoate
Sorbates
Propionates
Nitrites
Neem Oil
Salt (Sodium Chloride)
Lemon
Honey
EDTA
Polyphosphates
Citric Acid
Benzoic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Methyl Paraben
Ethyl Paraben
Propyl Paraben
Alcohols
Phenols
Vitamin E
Vitamin C
BHA
BHT
Note-
EDTA – Ethylenediamine tetra acetic acid
BHA – Butylated hydroxyl anisole
BHT – Butylated hydroxy toluene

28. Some examples of Preservatives used in cosmetic products
Product type Preservative Concentration Used (%)
Lipstick Methyl Paraben 0.1
Toothpaste Methyl Paraben
Ethyl Paraben
5
0.02
Shampoo Potassium Sorbate 0.8
Moisturizing Cream Cocos Nucifera (Coconut Fruit Extract) 2
Cold Cream Propyl Paraben 0.8
Skin Cream Benzyl alcohol 0.6
Face Masks Tocopherol (Vitamin E) 1
Shower Gels Citric Acid 0.5
Lotions Sorbic Acid 0.6
Scrubs Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract 1
Sun Cream Salic Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract 2.5

29. PRESERVATIVES USED IN TOOTHPASTES
ANCHOR TOOTHPASTE NAME USES CONC. (%)
Calcium Carbonate Adhesive agent 35
Glycerin Humectant 30
Sodium Lauryl
Sulphate
Surfactant 0.5
Methyl Paraben Preservative 0.1
Propyl Paraben Preservative 0.02
Sodium Saccharin Sweetening Agent 0.3
Sodium Carboxy
Methyl Cellulose
Thickening or
Gelling Agent
1
Purified Water Liquid phase 8
Carrageenan Binding Agent 0.75
Flavor Ingredient Flavoring Agent 1

30. PRESERVATIVES USED IN SHAMPOOS
L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL PRO-KERATIN REFILL SHAMPOO
NAME USES CONC.(%)
Aqua/Water Liquid Phase 73.2
Cetearyl Alcohol Builder 7
Ethyl Paraben Preservative 0.2
Methyl Paraben Preservative 0.4
Citric Acid Sequestrant 1
Sodium
Benzoate
Preservative 0.5

31. PRESERVATIVES USED IN LIPSTICKS
NYKAA SO MATTE LIPSTICK
NAME USES CONC. (%)
Paraffin Wax Stiffening
Agent
29
White Bees
Wax
Stiffening
Agent
37
Candelilla
Wax
Hardening
Agent
9
Carnauba
Wax
Hardening
Agent
3
Propyl
Paraben
Preservative 0.1
Ozokerite
Wax
Structuring
Agent
13
Lanolin Emollient 5

32. PRESERVATIVES USED IN CREAMS
DABUR GULABARI MOISTURISING COLD CREAM
NAME USES CONC. (%)
Cetearyl Alcohol Builder 7
Glycerin Humectant 30
Petroleum Jelly Lubricant 7.5
Methyl Paraben Preservative 0.4
Propyl Paraben Preservative 0.8
Liquid Paraffin Stiffening Agent 29
Aqua/Water Liquid Phase 32

33. Hemp Skin Detoxifying Ayurvedic Clay Face Mask
NAME USES
Aqua (Water) Solvent
Glycerin Humectant
Aloe Vera Healing Agent
Mel (Honey) Moisturizer, Flavoring
Agent
Hemp Seed Oil Improve Skin Tone
Tocopherol Preservative
Benzyl Benzoate Preservative
Cetyl Alcohol Binding Agent (Builder)
Stearyl Alcohol Emollient
Made with a nourishing blend of 100% pure, Certified
Organic, cold-pressed Hemp Seed Oil, Aloe Vera and
Turmeric, this gentle face mask helps clarify and even
out skin texture.
Preservative here is mainly used to prevent
microbial growth and product stability
of this cosmetic product.

34. LABELLING CONDITIONS
• 100% Organic Ayurvedic Formulation
• Deeply cleanses and purifies the skin
• Evens out blemished skin
• Helps manage enlarged pores
• Soothes inflammation and reduces acne breakouts.
• Suitable for all skin types.
• 100% Vegetarian.
• Certified ‘COSMOS NATURAL’ by BDIH, GERMANY
• Not tested in animals
• Does NOT contain Parabens, Silicones, Lead, Phthalates,
Mineral Oil, Petrolatum Directions: After washing your face,
apply an even layer on the skin. Leave it
on for 10-15 minutes, or until the mask
starts to dry. Wash off with lukewarm
water. Follow up with toning and
moisturizing ritual.
Primary packaging- Recycled
Plastic Jar
Secondary packaging-
Cardboard Box
Net Weight of the product: 50 g
Best Before: 24 months from manufacture date
Manufactured by: Vedicare Ayurveda Pvt. Ltd.

35. Mamaearth Vitamin C Body Lotion
Mamaearth Vitamin C Body Lotion deeply nourishes and
soothes, and boosts collagen to give you radiant looking skin.
Key Ingredients
Vitamin C:
It is an antioxidant which
promotes natural glow to
your skin.
Honey:
It is a natural humectant
which improves skin moisture,
preventing from drying out.
Shea Butter:
Anti-inflammatory and
healing properties. For
softening skin.
Olive Oil:
It is an excellent moisturizing
agent which protects and
nourishes the skin.

36. Ingredients
NAME USES
Aqua (Water) Solvent
Caprilic/Capric
Triglyceride
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier
Shea Butter Moisturizing Agent
Glycerin Humectant
Olive Oil Preservative
Potassium Sorbate Preservative
Citric Acid Anti-oxidant and
Exfoliant
Mamaearth Vitamin C Body
Lotion is suitable for all skin
types. It has no harmful
chemicals and is free of
Parabens, toxins and mineral
oils.
Preservatives here are used to
make the product fresh and
non-greasy, giving the long-
lasting hydrated skin you need.

37. LABELLING CONDITIONS
• Ayurvedic Formulation
• Suits all skin types
• 100% Vegetarian product
• Storage condition- Store in cool and dry place
• Certified as Organic by ECOCERT and PETA
• COSMOS ORGANIC
• Caution- for external use only
• Not tested on animals
• No animal by product
• MFG LIC no: 570AQ-PX
• MFG Name and Address: Indo Herbal Products PVT. LTD., Unit - 2, Plot No. 29,
Sector 1B, IIE, Sidcul, Ranipur, Haridwar, 249403,Enclave, New Delhi – 110017
• Expiry Date: 15 October 2023
• Directions: Pump out an adequate amount of body lotion on your palm. Gently
massage the lotion all over your body until completely absorbed. Reapply whenever
the skin feels dry.
Packaging material:
Recyclable plastic PETG, and is
100% biodegradable.

38. CONCLUSION
What is COSMOS?
Objectives of
COSMOS
Preservatives and
their uses
Storage,
Manufacturing and
Packaging
Herbal Cosmetic
Products according
to COSMOS
Origin and
Processing of
Ingredients
according to
COSMOS
Composition of Total
Product according to
COSMOS
Need of
Preservatives
Environmental
Management
according to
COSMOS
Labelling Conditions
for Organic and
Natural Products

39. THANK YOU