1. H
er sketches are brilliant
and visuals fantastical. Her
silhouettesareunconventional
and truly dramatic. She
enjoys deconstructing the
have-beens and structuring newer outlines.
Having recognised her creative side early
on, she developed a knack for the off-beat.
She made a startling start with experimental
designingandwentontobecomeIndia’svery
own milliner. We caught up with Mumbai
designer Shilpa Chavan of the accessories
label‘LittleShilpa’duringtheBlendersPride
Fashion Tour that happened late last year.
Excerpts from the conversation:
What fuelled your interest in designing?
As a kid, I always knew I wanted to do
something creative. In fact, I loved to stitch
my own clothes. I’d have been an architect
or an artist if not a designer. Though I
studied fashion, I always knew I didn’t want
to struggle in the industry, or do things to
please others. So, I decided to do something
that makes me happy.
What influences your design sensibilities?
What inspires you?
I love going back to the past for inspiration.
Whether it was for my debut line of shirts,
or a collection inspired by the streets of
in college. That’s how we started working
together. After doing two collections, I
assisted Hemant as a choreographer.
Watching him do his thematic shows
and headpieces was when I realised my
true calling. Hemant, who gave me the
opportunity to design headpieces, always
encouraged me to innovate and push
myself harder, without any fear.
Your headpieces are actually quite
popular. How easy or tricky it is to keep
innovating?
I think I was born to create headpieces.
When I used to style shoots, I remember
I would pick up random things and make
headpieces out of them. Whenever I’m
sketching, I always think of the head first.
My headpieces just happen magically. It all
comes naturally to me.
Tell us about the other highlight of your
work—the deconstructed sari. How did
you conceive the idea?
A few years back when I was studying in
London, I was going through this whole
‘incredible India’ phase and I was collecting
thesereallybeautifulandexquisiteBenarasi
saris. The motifs of these vintage saris were
still intact and the zari work was stunning.
So I decided to do a collection of accessories
that made ample use of the zari and gave
it a modern touch. The idea was to create a
sari that was fuss-free and easy to wear. It
comprised a pleated skirt and a checkered
pallu to which I added men’s shirts and
bow ties.
In London, millinery is an everyday thing
whereas India doesn’t have that culture.
What made you stick to your job?
I started out with smaller headgear and
people began to wear the floral headbands
at first. Then we graduated to lace and a
little more funky stuff. Today, I get requests
from children as well as women above
60 and I love that. It’s a good balance.
I’m thankful to the media and everyone
who didn’t diss me and say things like,
‘What is she thinking? Why is she making
headpieces?’ Instead they all liked my
designs and waited to see what I could do
next. Their interest and confidence kept
me going.
You have showcased at many fashion
weeks in London and Paris, and your
headpieces found a fan in Lady Gaga.
How does it feel?
It’s a bit surprising, but it’s surely a nice
feeling.
What’s your latest collection about?
In my current collection, I am doing three
stories—the first one in denim, the second
is a collection of katori shirts, and the last
bit is fantastical, like Little Shilpa. Every
time I do a collection, I hope to create an
Mumbai—one can always find a piece of
my past in my work. I am also inspired
by things and people around me—family,
friends, literature... There was a phase
when I was totally smitten with French
poet Charles Baudelaire. In fact, I did two
back-to-back collections, both of which
were inspired by his poems.
How did you get your first big break in
the industry?
I was studying at SNDT Women’s
University in Mumbai and Hemant Trivedi
used to teach us back then. I had won the
award for the most innovative collection
emotion. I like to stir something in my
audience. Whether they love it or hate it,
I want reactions.
Any designers you look up to or whose
work excites you?
Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.
They are storytellers and when you see their
work, it does something to you.
Lastly, what do you want to be known as—
Shilpa the designer, or Shilpa the artist?
It’s quite simple, I can’t be an artist without
being a designer. And I can’t be a fashion
designer without being an artist because I
want to create things. I have to tell a story.
I want to do artistic fashion.
ramp shots
from little
shilpa’s
collection
as presented
at the
blenders
pride fashion
tour.
extreme
right: shilpa
chavan of
little shilpa
54 55style
Small WonderA stylist? A designer? A milliner? Wait, she is an all-in-one artist. Known for her quirky
sense of style, Little Shilpa can translate trash into treasure in no time. An intuitive
designer, she loves to juxtapose the past with the present to create her avant-garde designs.
By Dessidre Fleming